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Our May getaway, 2016…

A few months ago, Bill and I went to The Auld Rogue  in Vaihingen for a Sunday lunch and came home with tentative plans to go to Ireland.  The folks at The Auld Rogue were offering a group trip to Ireland for the long Memorial Day weekend.  Bill made reservations for our dogs at Dog On Holiday in anticipation of a quick May sojourn to his motherland.

Then the trip to Ireland became a trip to France.  After researching the logistics of going to Ireland from Stuttgart, along with my lack of enthusiasm for trying Ryan Air, I pushed Ireland out of my head.  I thought maybe we’d hit southern France and pick up some wine.  But it occurred to me that we’ve been to France a few times.  Then I noticed someone on our local Facebook group had posted an article about Hallstatt, Austria.  Bill and I love Austria and we’ve already visited four times during our current Germany tenure of less than two years.  As I read about Hallstatt, I realized that we hadn’t been to Slovenia.  And we also hadn’t visited Trieste, in northeastern Italy.  My plans to go to France soon evaporated as I mapped out a road trip taking us from Austria, to Italy, and then Slovenia, with another stop in Austria on the way back to Stuttgart.

Once I started planning, we realized the dogs needed a longer holiday at Dog On Holiday.  Fortunately, there was room for them in the days leading up to Memorial Day weekend.  We left Germany for Austria on May 21st.  As I write this, we’ve been gone two nights.

We decided to take my Mini Cooper convertible on our trip, mainly because it needs the miles, but also because we figured it would be more fun to drive it with the top down.  As we’ve arrived in Italy this afternoon, I now think it was best to drive it because it’s smaller than our RAV 4 and fits more easily through narrow passages.  I was initially afraid I might want to buy something and not be able to because of my car’s small size, but then I remembered the wonders of shipping.

Early Saturday morning, Bill dropped our dogs off with Max at Dog On Holiday and we set off on our journey.  I remembered being warned about the terrible traffic we might face on the way south.  We did hit a few Staus, but none were really terrible until we saw the line of cars trying to get from Austria back into Germany.  That may be something to plan for when we start the drive home.

Stau near Esslingen…

Closer to Austria…

 

It seemed to take forever to get out of Germany.  At one point, we stopped at a horribly crowded rest stop that was teeming with buses, bikers, truckers, and disgruntled motorists. I waited in the car while Bill went to buy an Austrian vignette.  While he was gone, some kid started whizzing on the fence right in front of me.  I guess either he or his parents didn’t want to pay 70 cents for the restroom.

But we finally got to Austria and made our way to our first stop in Gosau, Austria.  I decided on Gosau because I had read that Hallstatt was very crowded and teeming with tourists, especially Asians.  It’s not that I have anything against Asians.  In fact, we often run into them when we travel, especially in Austria.  It’s just that when I was hunting for lodging, I found a listing for a very charming looking hotel in Gosau and one reviewer mentioned all the Asians in Hallstatt.  She made it sound like Hallstatt was very touristy, even if it is pretty.  So though it was pricey, I booked two nights at the Landhaus Koller.  That turned out to be one of my better ideas.  Not only is the Landhaus Koller utterly beautiful and charming, it’s also out of the throngs of tourists in Hallstatt.

And yes, the reviewer on Trip Advisor was absolutely right.  There are many Chinese people in Hallstatt.  In turns out there’s a special reason why Chinese people love to visit Hallstatt.  I learned the reason yesterday during our visit.  In a suburb of Beijing, the Chinese have built a replica of Hallstatt.  I’m not sure how many people in China actually live in their version of Hallstatt, but the replica has made Chinese people want to visit the real thing.  And visit they do… many, many of them.

We managed to have a great time in Gosau and we’re now in a hotel in Italy.  We’ll spend two nights here and head to Slovenia for a few days.  I feel like writing now, but the Internet connection is too slow.

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May we travel a lot?

It’s hard to believe May is going to be over in eleven days.  This morning, as I was looking at Facebook’s “On this day” feature, I noticed that May seems to be the month Bill and I most often choose for our adventures.  Even when we lived in the US, we always seemed to be in Europe in time for Eurovision.

Tomorrow, we leave for this year’s May trip.  We’ll be driving, so I’m going to take my laptop with me.  There will be blogging aplenty in the coming week-and-a-half.  Since my travel blog has been pretty quiet lately, I thought I’d take a look at some of our trips of Mays past.

2012–  Our very first military hop!

In 2012, Bill and I were living in North Carolina.  For years, I’d been bugging him about trying to take a hop somewhere.  My dad was an Air Force retiree and he and my mom took Space A flights several times when I was a kid.  I never got to go with them, though, so I wanted my turn.  In May 2012, Bill finally gave in and we drove from our home in Sanford, North Carolina to BWI near Baltimore.  That night, we were on a flight to Germany.

I was very excited because we’d lived in Germany from 2007-09 and I was pining for it.  We spent about $32 to get on the Patriot Express and by the afternoon, we landed at Ramstein.  I had never been to Ramstein before, so that in and of itself was exciting.  From Ramstein, we went to Cologne, where we spent a night.  Then I got a Blind Booking on Germanwings (now Eurowings), thinking that we’d get to go somewhere cool because the Cologne airport offered more choices.  We ended up with a flight to Munich.  No matter, though, because we had a blast.  We got train passes good for all of Germany and certain border areas, so while we were in Munich, we visited Salzburg.

Bill enjoying a Maibock at the Hofbrauhaus.

We spent three nights in Munich, then flew back to Cologne, where we hopped a train to Trier.  Trier is located very close to the Luxembourg border, so we were able to visit Luxembourg and get close enough to the French and Belgian borders to walk across if we’d wanted to.

A very pretty church in Rodanthe, Luxembourg, right across from a Portuguese restaurant where we had a cheap and delicious lunch.   Minutes after we passed this church, we ran into a hen party.  One of the women in the party was wearing a rubber phallus on her nose and an adult diaper.

That first trip was fairly short.  We were gone about a week.  But with that first success came bravery and we’ve since done two more “hops”.

2013– SeaDream cruise–Italy and Greece!

Back in November 2011, Bill and I celebrated our 9th wedding anniversary on SeaDream I.  That was our second cruise on the small luxury mega yacht and we had a great time in the southern Caribbean.  During that trip, we pre-booked another cruise and ended up choosing to visit Italy and Greece.  Although Bill and I visited Italy during our first Germany tour, we never made it to Venice, Florence, or Rome.  We also never went to Greece together, though Bill did get to go to Crete on a business trip.

Venice!

Amalfi coast from the ship.

 

Capri from the tender.

Because Bill had never been to the “holy trinity” of Italian cities, we made plans to see Venice and Florence on the way to Rome, which was where we’d be picking up our cruise.  On the other side of the cruise, we would spend a couple of nights in Athens.  Although I love SeaDream’s cruises and that particular one was a lot of fun, I ended up getting sick with a nasty cold.  We still managed to have a fantastic time.  I am wondering when our next SeaDream cruise will be.

2014– Our third military hop!

In May of 2014, we lived in Texas and Bill was preparing to retire from the Army.  Because he had terminal leave, we decided it was the perfect time to take another hop.  We had taken our second hop in January and ended up in Spain and Portugal.  This time, we were trying for Germany.

We got to Germany and stayed a night in Ramstein, where we met some Americans who had come from Belgium to play sports.  The Americans were based at SHAPE in Belgium and Bill ended up talking to them.  They gave him pointers on how to get us moved back to Europe.  I remember telling Bill that night that I had a feeling we’d be moving back to Germany.  Sure enough, weeks after we came home to the USA, Bill had a job offer in Stuttgart.

Boats in Nice

Lyon…

Beautiful sea in Nice!  Everything’s nice in Nice! 

On that trip, we visited Champagne country (Reims and Epernay), Dijon, Lyon, Nimes, and Nice.  While we were in Nimes, we visited an old American friend of mine from high school and college.  I hadn’t seen her since the 90s.  She’s lived in France for about twenty years and has three very French kids!  I loved Nimes and want to go back, not just to visit that city again, but to see some of the surrounding areas.  In fact, we very nearly decided to go back to France this year, but then I realized we’d not been to Slovenia yet and that’s been on my bucket list for awhile.

We really enjoyed Nice, though it’s quite a big city.  I’d love to go back there during the summer when swimming in the beautiful blue water is feasible.

From Nice, we flew back to Germany via Vienna, then took a day trip to Bacharach, on the Rhein.  We ran into some drunken fathers and sons at a biergarten.  Bill ended up talking to one guy who tearfully told us how the Americans had helped his family escape East Germany.  That really turned out to be a very special day…

Bill and me in Bacharach among many drunk German guys…

2015- Stuttgart

We didn’t go anywhere in May last year, though we did take trips in April and June.  I count it, though, because we had not yet been back in Germany a year as of last May and being in Germany still felt like a vacation.  Last May, we visited Triberg and Calw, two places I never visited during our first tour here.

Triberg…

Calw

2016- Austria, Italy, and Slovenia

Stay tuned for details.  I can hardly wait!  Incidentally, the first time we lived in Germany, we never took overnight trips to Austria.  This time, we keep going back there.  This will be our fourth time during our second tour!  On the other hand, last time we were here we went to Belgium and the Czech Republic several times.  This time, we’ve given those countries no love…  Ah well, maybe we’ll get back there next year.

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A quiet weekend…

Well, actually, it wasn’t that quiet.  Instead of doing our usual restaurant exploration, we had a couple of people over last night.  Then we went to Tommi’s Bistro for dinner.

Since we basically ate what we always do when we go to Tommi’s, I decided not to take any photos.  But I did get a hug from Danni, our favorite waitress, who wondered why we didn’t come to the jam session last week.  Maybe next month we’ll make an appearance.

Today, I sat on my can and watched Army Wives all day.  It’s pretty bad TV, but I got hooked on it when it first aired.  Bill was deployed at the time and it kind of helped me get through those last months.  Army Wives eventually got to be unwatchable, but I will say the last episode was pretty decent.  I was almost sorry that the show ended.

Anyway, next weekend, we’re leaving town.  I will be bringing my computer, so there will be blogging.  Should be a fun read because we’re hitting Austria, Italy, and Slovenia.  This will be our first trip to Slovenia.  I’m really looking forward to it.

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Ten things I learned on my trip to Austria, Italy, and Switzerland…

Here it is, time for another ten things I learned post.  I like to think of these lists as a good way to sum up a trip.  It so happens that I learned a lot during our most recent travel.  I may have even learned more than ten things.  So, with no further delay, here’s my list of what I learned this time.

10.  Bier Bottich Bad…  apparently, it’s a beer spa franchise and other hotels are jumping on the bandwagon.  The experience pretty much looks to be the same at the places who offer this particular beer spa treatment.  Other types of beer baths exist, but if you find one with this logo…

It’s distinctive, isn’t it?

 

you know you’re in for a beer jacuzzi soak in what looks like a beer keg and a rest in oat straw.  Now that we’ve done it twice, I think it may be awhile before our next beer spa treatment, unless we go somewhere that’s different.

9.  Good brakes are an absolute must in the Alps.  This should go without saying.  I’m mentioning it, though, because there are some very steep passes in the mountains.  Before you drive there in your car, you may want to have your mechanic check and make sure your brakes are in tip top shape.

8.  Tipping is not a thing in Italy.  Sure, it’s likely that your tips will be appreciated by some servers, but it’s not something that Italians really do.  At least not based on my observations…  A lot of times, you pay a cashier separate from the server, which doesn’t lend itself to tipping anyway.  If you do tip, just round up the bill.  Otherwise, you may end up being unintentionally offensive.  Also, remember that in a lot of Italian restaurant locations, you pay a couple of euros as a cover charge.

7.  Smog is a thing in Italy.   It’s very sad, actually.  I never realized just how polluted the air was there until this particular trip.  It makes me realize that environmental laws are a good thing.  The air quality is noticeably better in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland.

6.  You may see Confederate battle flags in Italy.  My Italian friend Vittorio says that some southern Italians have co-opted the so-called Stars and Bars because they relate to the American South and the whole Civil War thing.  I don’t know how true that is or if he’s just pulling my leg, but I sure as hell did see a Confederate battle flag in an Italian Agip station.  By the way… shopping, even at truck stops, is awesome in Italy.

This was a surprise.  So was all the olive oil and other Italian food stuff for sale.

 

5.  If a waiter offers you a glass of Champagne in a five star hotel, it could be Cristal and you may get serious sticker shock.  Granted, it was our own fault for not simply requesting the wine list first.  We weren’t thinking.  Lesson learned.

4.  Power outlets are different in Switzerland.   I had totally forgotten about this little idiosyncrasy of life in Switzerland.  We will have to invest in a couple of adaptors for our next excursion.

Weird.

 

3.  German sounds different in Austria.  At least it did to me.  But it could be just that I am a long way from being able to communicate or understand the language.

2.  Not every European country totally shuts down on Sunday.  We found stores open in Austria and Switzerland.  We weren’t in Italy on Sunday.  My guess is that Italy does shut down.  Someone can correct me if I’m wrong.

1.  Italian truck stops/Auto Grills are amazing.  You can pee there for free and they offer very good food and relatively convenient parking.  You may have to run the shopping gauntlet maze to escape the store, but you won’t have to fish out fifty cents to take a whiz.  Of course, you also won’t get to sit down on a toilet seat.  The toilets in the ones we visited were all seatless.  I recommend the Auto Grill because if you get off the Autostrada just to eat, you’ll end up having to pay tolls more often.  It’s a pain in the butt.  Also… if you drive in Italy, make sure you have cash to pay the tolls.  Italy is not unlike New Jersey, toll booth capital of the USA…

George Carlin about sums up driving, especially in Italy.

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A whirlwind trip to Austria, Italy, and probably Switzerland, part 4

Yesterday morning, we got up, again our joints creaky from the mattress and our increasing ages.  We packed up all our stuff and put it in the car.  I was excited about the prospect of visiting Italy again.  Our last visit was in May 2013.  We flew to Venice, then took a train to Florence and Rome before we picked up a weeklong SeaDream cruise in Civitavecchia.

The visit before that one occurred in July 2009, when Bill, his mom, and I literally got stuck in Italy.  I had published the story on two different Web sites that have since gone *poof* or I would link to the story.  Long story short, Bill and I decided to take his mom on a whirlwind trip through five countries.  We ended up getting stuck in Italy after a summer storm flooded the autostrada near Lake Como.  We did manage to get out, but not before we spent the whole night trying to find an opening to the Swiss border.  It was a bit of a disaster.  We still talk about it a lot, though…  It’s not often that you can see Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Liechtenstein and Italy in less than 24 hours.  And on the way home, we went through France and had lunch, just so my mother-in-law could say she’d been there, too.

I think it’s safe to say that we like to travel by the seat of our pants.  So I was definitely ready to venture back to Italy and see this place called Vicenza, which I have heard so very much about.  Bill has a conference all week, so I pictured myself wandering around the city and making discoveries.  But first, we needed to stop by the Spar again.  I needed toiletries.

I picked up some toothpaste, lotion, and conditioner and we went to the checkout.  A strikingly pretty and surprisingly chipper young lady with dark brown hair and big expressive eyes was working the register.  We didn’t even have to open our mouths before she switched to English, with an apology, no less!  She asked if we were British people on holiday.  We said no, we came from Germany…  Then added that we are Americans.  She smiled, displaying two rows of perfect white teeth and said, “Oh, so you’re Americans who live in Germany and have come on holiday to Seefeld?”

“Yes.” I said…  That about summed it up, alright.  She wished us a pleasant day as we gathered my toiletries and headed for the door.

Just as Bill was about to climb into the RAV4, he realized that he had forgotten to turn in the hotel key.  He went back to the lobby, where the hotel owner had just arrived.  In German, he said he’d forgotten to give back the key.  The two snickering ladies who had been making fun of us for two days suddenly realized that Bill spoke some German.  I wasn’t there to see it, but Bill said their eyes got big and mouths dropped open in shock.  It was probably a fine Kodak moment.  All told, our two nights at Hotel Diana, including beer bath, two bottles of wine, and half board, came to about $450.

We got on the road and I entertained myself taking lots of pictures of the beautiful scenery.  As I mentioned before, Seefeld is up in the Alps, making it great for those who wish to ski.  However, good brakes are an absolute must because they will be taxed coming down the mountain.  There are many emergency escapes on the way down that are no doubt there because people have died or been hurt by brake failures.  I would not want to try driving up there in snowy or icy conditions, though I know people do it.  I can’t even imagine what it must be like for truck drivers bringing goods to the two Spars in Seefeld.  Must be a nightmare in the winter!  Anyway, the following pictures were taken on the way down.

One of the more obvious emergency pull offs…

Innsbruck in the distance.

I had to take a photo of this WC.  Back in 2009, I took a couple of tours through Edelweiss Lodge.  One was to Innsbruck and Crystal World and the other was to Bolzano and Vipiteno.  I see they have changed up some of the tours since then.  Anyway, we did stop at the rest area and I did use the bathroom with the big sign.  It was closed yesterday.  I noticed a sign in the restaurant next to it that read that anyone not eating or drinking has to pay 50 cents to pee.  

 

The area around the rest stop is absolutely stunning.  The mountains are very dramatic and gorgeous. But they do get you with a nine euro toll…

Italian border.

We stopped a little ways into Italy so I could have a pee break and we could both enjoy a cappuccino.  Sud Tyrol is as lovely as its Austrian neighbor.  And I was very impressed to see what was being sold in the convenience store.  There was bacon, ham, wines from the region, and cheeses.  I didn’t see any of the usual crap sold in truck stops/convenience stores.  I did get a kick out of the old guy who was collecting money for the freezing cold toilet.  Bill said he even patted him on the back because he managed to get the hand dryer working without assistance.

About an hour or so later, we decided to stop for lunch.  We were in a little town called Avia.  To get to the town, we had to go through a tunnel which allowed traffic to go one way at a time.

We were stuck behind this guy, who waved to a couple of folks passing by.  I figure he probably knows everyone in the town.

We had lunch at a trattoria called Statzione.  It was located right by the train station, hence the name.  We walked into the place and it was clear that it was full of locals.  Everybody stared as we took a seat in the corner.  It turned out it was one of those places where they serve a special and a couple of other choices.

Bill ordered a half liter of house wine… and a bottle of sparkling water.  The wine came in the pretty carafe.

Bill looks handsome as heck.  

I had a plate of penne pasta with bacon cream sauce (hello arteries) and Bill had penne pasta with cheese sauce, kind of like Alfredo…  We could have also had salad, but opted not to.  The cost for lunch was just 18 euros!  Cheap!

I couldn’t resist taking a picture of the colorful toilet seat in the ladies room.  The men’s room also had one.

A shot of the outside of the trattoria.

 

We got back on the road and headed further south.  From Austria to Avia, we paid 13 euros in tolls.  We got another ticket for the rest of the way, making only one last pee stop at an Autogrill.  It was free to pee, but they made you walk the gauntlet past all the shit they were selling.  Everything from wine, to chocolates, to dehydrated mushrooms!  I didn’t mind, though.  In fact, I was a little tempted.

We arrived at Hotel Victoria in the mid afternoon.  I had already read some disturbing reports about this hotel.  Now that I’ve been here a night, I see it’s basically a big PCS hotel… the kind of place where Americans stay while settling in Vicenza.  It’s not far from the US installation.  Still, it’s not the kind of place I would have booked.  We are here because it’s convenient and what Bill’s work will pay for.

This picture is over our bed.

The furnishings are dated and a bit depressing, but the hotel has a self service laundry, a nice restaurant with good food, decent breakfast which is included and, in the summer, there’s a big pool with lifeguards.  More on this in the next post…

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A whirlwind trip to Austria, Italy, and probably Switzerland, part 3

We decided to have lunch after we visited Crystal World.  Although we could have gone to the restaurant on site, we thought we might have a more peaceful meal in the town of Wattens.  Sadly, it was not to be…  But we did come away from our lunch at Pronto Pasta with a fun story.

I’m not sure what the restaurant scene is like in Wattens.  I do know that it was a Sunday and Pronto Pasta had lots of signs around town, advertising their restaurant.  I don’t usually like to go to restaurants that are so heavily promoted because they are usually tourist traps.  Indeed, Pronto Pasta has signs in five or six different languages… a sure sign that they cater to the clueless who visit the little Austrian town of Wattens.  We went anyway.

Now, usually when there are lots of signs attracting tourists, you’d expect a huge restaurant with lots of tables.  As it turned out, Pasta Pronto is a very small place with a menu in English and German.  We noticed that they’d set up a couple of large tables which took up most of their tiny dining room.  We were directed to a pub table near the front door.  I eyed the large tables nervously, figuring that a big tourbus was about to arrive.  Bill tried using his rudimentary German, but our waiter immediately switched to flawless English.  Just as well.

 

Bill ordered a nice glass of red…  I had white.

Bill had penne pasta with truffles, cream sauce, and ham.  I had a salmon filet with cherry tomatoes and a side of tagliatelle.

Another shot of the food.  It was very good.

 

Just as we were about a third of the way into our meals, a large tourbus full of Chinese people showed up.  A small, nervous looking little Chinese guy who spoke English hustled into the restaurant.  He had a large plastic bag full of individual packets of spicy Hunt’s brand ketchup.  Bill overheard him explain that a number of the tourists with him were “addicted” to the stuff.  The Italian bus driver took the table next to Bill’s and mine, meaning he shared a bench seat with me.  He seemed a bit “over it”.  I couldn’t blame him for that.  The tourists all sat down at the tables that had been prepared for them.

The little tour guide approached one of the waiters and started asking about the menu.  He wanted pizza.  The restaurant doesn’t serve pizza, though they do apparently have a pizzeria in a separate location.  Then the guy was asking about sausages.  The waiter seemed to be doing a good job maintaining his cool as he explained to the tour guide that they had ordered a set menu, so they were all going to be served the same thing.  It looked like they were having some kind of soup with a dollop of cream on top (sprayed into a decorative etoile), Wiener schnitzel, and tiramisu for dessert.  From what I could see, the food looked good and everybody was reasonably happy.  The two waiters were hustling and Bill overheard one of them complaining about their boss, a plain clothesed man who dropped off a couple of plates and claimed to have been helpful in the process.

 

The waiter deals with the tourists.  Bill and I were, of course, no trouble at all…

I got up to go to the bathroom, but it was occupied.  I stood and waited, feeling more and more intrusive.  I wasn’t sure what was going on in there, but the lady ahead of me had some issues.  At one point, I figured maybe I shouldn’t try to use the toilet at that time, but then she came out…  It was a tiny girl, looked no older than fifteen and no bigger than a size zero, apologizing profusely.  It was no big deal at that point.  Poor thing.

A shot of the outside of the restaurant.

The above signs were all over Wattens.

 

Finally, after more wine, Bill paid the check.  We headed back to the car, bypassing the tiny little Christmas market going on.  As Bill paid for the parking, I noticed a ladies room.  I ducked in and waited again.  I didn’t really have to go so badly, but I remembered the arduous mountain drive and didn’t want to have to pee while Bill was stressing over the drive up the 16 degree grade.

Christmas market in Wattens.

Graffiti on the bathroom door.

We stopped by Spar for more wine, which we didn’t end up drinking.  I took a photo of the Williams pear schnapps because Bill has a funny college story about it.  He and a buddy were once held hostage in a DC bar by a mischievous bartender who wouldn’t let them leave until they could explain how the pear got in the bottle…

Beer tubs at Hotel Diana.  I didn’t have a chance to get a shot of Bill and me this time.  If you want to see us in a beer tub, I recommend checking out my Moorhof writeup.  

 

Our appointment for our beer bath was set for 5:00 pm.  I had Bill go ask at the reception if the bath would be with or without bathing suits.  When we were at the Moorhof, we did it with suits.  While that preserved our modesty somewhat, it also got hops and other debris in our suits.  I would have been fine doing the bath naked.  But the guy at the front desk either didn’t understand the question or didn’t care one way or the other.  Bill came up and told me we should wear our suits.  I had brought my “spa robe”(which I like so much that I wear it around the house, too).  Bill only brought his bathing suit.  Since I also brought a cover up, I let Bill borrow my robe (Santa will bring him a spa robe for Christmas).  I wore the cover up.

We showed up at the beer bath and the lady from the video I posted in the first of this series said we should bathe naked.  I was game, but I think Bill was a bit bashful.  The whole thing was kind of awkward because she was telling us to get undressed and we’re typical Americans who aren’t used to being nude in front of strangers.  Finally, she told us to just get in the tub.  I think the tubs at Hotel Diana are a little smaller than the one we used at the Moorhof.

Bill and I were not as cramped in the one at the Moorhof as we were at Hotel Diana.  It was ultimately okay for us, but Bill and I are short people with short legs.  If this writeup makes you want to try a beer bath at Hotel Diana with your partner and you have long legs, you may want to go for separate baths.  Also, I recommend this treatment without bathing suits.  The barley they use in the tub gets stuck in your suit, plus you have to undress for the straw bed, anyway.

So anyway, we got in the tub…  this time, unlike at the Moorhof, the beer spigot was not purely for decoration.  We were allowed to drink as much as we wanted.  The water was a little too cool for me at first, but I had access to the tap, so I was able to heat it up.  The hotel owner was kind enough to light candles and dim the overhead lights.

Later, we told her that we booked Hotel Diana because of the beer bath.  We explained that hers was the fourth beer spa experience we’ve had.  She then told us that Moorhof was the first hotel to offer the beer spa experience in Austria.  The family that owns Hotel Diana went there to check it out and decided to offer it at their hotel, too.

After the lights were turned down.

 

After about thirty minutes in the tub, we lost our bathing suits and got in the straw bed.  I mentioned in my review of Moorhof’s beer spa that the oat straw seems like it would be itchy, but it’s really not.  In fact, it’s very relaxing to lie there next to your loved one and enjoy the smell… and the softness.  But remember, I grew up in a barn with horses, so it makes sense that this experience would especially appeal to me.  Overall, it was a nice experience, though it seemed like Hotel Diana hasn’t done as many beer baths as Moorhof has, so things were a little less smoothly run.  Still, we managed to leave the beer baths very relaxed and contented.

Bill in the straw bed.  I shared it with him until I needed to use the potty.

 

After our beer bath, we went up to the room, showered, and dressed for dinner.  I was feeling a little nervous that the militant waitress would be helping us, but she was off that night.  Instead, we were waited on by the guy who had checked us in.  He told us to pick one of the first three tables, all of which had been set for two.  I liked that.

Bill enjoys the pleasantly decorated restaurant.

And orders us a nice bottle of Austrian red…

 

Our waiter apologized for the menu in German.  We said it was okay because we live in Germany and can speak menu somewhat.  We started with the same salad as we had the night before…

Then a very nice cold tuna appetizer, followed up a cup of chicken noodle soup.

I had the Cordon Bleu which came with cranberry sauce and parsleyed potatoes.

Bill had pork with a pepper cream sauce and a baked potato with sour cream.  

And for dessert, we had rice pudding…  It was very good!

 

The same two ladies who had snickered at us the previous night showed up when we were halfway through our dinner.  Fortunately, they sat two tables down from us, so we were spared having to serve as their source of entertainment.  After dinner, we went to bed and slept well until morning.

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A whirlwind trip to Austria, Italy, and probably Switzerland, part 2

Sunday morning, we woke up in Seefeld.  My back was a bit sore, probably because I’m used to sleeping on a feather bed.  The mattress at Hotel Diana was a bit firmer than that which my old back is accustomed.  I had taken a shower the night before and enjoyed it.  Hotel Diana doesn’t have a rainfall shower like the Moorhof in Franking did, but it was very clean and got great water pressure.  Unfortunately, my shoulders and hips were a little stiff.

We got dressed and went down to the breakfast room.  One of the ladies who had waited on us the night before was there in her dirndl.  I went to sit down, but she directed me to a different table, one in the middle of the dining room.  For some reason, there was “assigned seating”.  Before I could stop myself, I shot her a filthy look.  I can understand assigned seating when someone is serving you a full meal, but not for a breakfast buffet, especially since where I was about to sit was already set for two.  Poor Bill.  He caught the brunt of my side eye.  You’ll be glad to know that I didn’t make a scene, though.

We sat down at the assigned table in the middle of the dining room, and enjoyed the usual breakfast spread.  Hotel Diana offers meats, cheeses, cereals, juices, tea and coffee, as well as breads.  I was feeling a bit peeved about the waitress’s militant sticklerism for where we sat, so we decided to take a walk around Seefeld so I could burn off some steam.

Hotel route.

This church was connected to the Klosterbrau Hotel.  Very expensive digs!

This is a town that is custom made for ski holidays.  I saw lots of people skiing down the slopes with artificial snow (for now).  People were ice skating, too.  If we’d wanted to, we could have hired a carriage ride.  I’m pretty sure most of the horses we saw were Haflingers, which is a breed native to the area.  All those hours I spent as a horse crazy kid studying horse breeds has paid off here in Europe, where I often see horses I never saw in the States.  Anyway, they were all well looked after and appeared to enjoy their work and the horsey aroma helped lift my spirits.  It was very cold on Sunday and all the cars had frost on them…

As you can see, someone took advantage of the frost.  This was parked right in front of a five star spa hotel.  I’m not sure why someone drew a penis on this person’s car.  It was funny to see, though.  Maybe it wouldn’t have been had it been my car.

 

One thing to know about Seefeld is that on Sundays, things are open.  There’s a huge Spar market next to Hotel Diana, as well as a smaller one near the center of town.  Most of the souvenir shops appeared to be open, too.  Bill and I didn’t do much shopping, though, unless you count the wine and liqueurs we bought.

There was an impressive assortment of funny boozes…

We had plans to visit the Swarovski Crystal World in Wattens.  I had gone there alone on a tour with the Edelweiss Lodge back in June 2009.  I thought it was a really interesting place and figured Bill would love it.  I suggested that we go together, since we were conveniently located nearby.  Bill was game, though getting down the steep mountain road to get to the autobahn was a bit scary.  I’ll write more about that in a later post.  Suffice to say that if you have plans to stay in Seefeld, your car must have good brakes!

Crystal World was pretty busy on Sunday.  Bill and I happened to arrived at the same time as a large group of Russian tourists, who arrived in a late model luxury SUV.  The women were all dressed to the nines and a couple were wearing fur.  They seemed excited to be there and oblivious to everyone else.  In fact, they got in line ahead of us.  One of the ladies, doused in some kind of pungent cologne, was excitedly directing her husband which tickets to buy.  It turned out they were in the wrong line, though, since there were sixteen of them.

The museum costs 19 euros per adult if you’re not in a group   However, you do get a little break if you spend money in the shop at the end of the tour.  I came away from there with three new pairs of earrings.  I might have bought more, but the store was pretty mobbed and I was getting a bit stressed out by the aggressive crowds.  Besides, as much as I like sparkly stuff, I don’t tend to take good care of my “pretties” as Bill puts it.  I’m not good about dusting and almost never entertain, so buying pretty knickknacks is kind of a waste of money for me.

Near the entrance.

Crystal World was just as cool as it was when I visited in 2009, though the throngs of people made it somewhat difficult to enjoy everything fully.  Lots of folks were stopping to take selfies and pictures of the exhibits.  I didn’t take any selfies, but I did snap a few photos to go with the ones I took in 2009.  The exhibits are mostly the same, though I did see a few different ones this time.  It’s a great place to go with kids.  They do have reduced admission prices and family prices available.

Jessye Norman singing while wearing Swarovski.

This is a blurry picture, but the exhibit was cool.  You stand in the light and the lasers put on a show for you.

Walking into a giant crystal.

Bill loved it.

A mechanical exhibit.

A frozen pond in Seefeld.

Salvador Dali in crystals.

The outdoor exhibit.

A statue of Daniel Swarovski in the town of Wattens.

Pyramid at Crystal World.

And the Taj Mahal.

Royal jewels.

 
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A whirlwind trip to Austria, Italy, and probably Switzerland, part 1…

Some weeks ago, Bill told me that he had to go on a business trip to Vicenza, Italy.  Neither of us had ever been there before, but there is a chance that we could one day end up living there.  Bill’s company has a lot of jobs in Vicenza for which he is very qualified.  Because of that and because it had been awhile since our last trip, he asked me if I wanted to go with him.  I agreed.

Then, a couple of weeks ago, we heard some disturbing stories about the place where we regularly boarded our dogs.  I was no longer feeling so confident about leaving Zane and Arran in their care, though we never personally had any problems with them.  I thought I was going to have to stay home. because it’s so close to Christmas and I figured we wouldn’t be able to find a place for the boys to stay.  But then, Bill and I managed to get a spot for them at Dog Holiday.  Last week was rather stressful for me, mainly because of what we had to do to get the dogs ready.  They had to have a tour and a test day with Max, owner of the facility.  I had to update their shots, which was stressful because both of my dogs tend to react to vaccines.  And then, Zane was supposed to have his allergy shot, but that had to be postponed because of the vaccine.

Anyway, we were able to put the dogs up for our nine night trip down here.  I am now sitting in Vicenza with a lot of time on my hands and plenty to write about.  It’s already been an eventful trip.

On Saturday morning, we dropped off the dogs.  Bill was irritated because one of the headlights on our SUV burned out.  We went to the Obi to buy new bulbs, not realizing that they wouldn’t work because our car is American and what they sell in German auto parts stores are for cars with European specs.  We went to Kelley, where Bill gassed up the car and unsuccessfully tried to change the bulbs.

We finally ended up having to go to Panzer, where we were annoyed by someone in a car asking for directions from someone going the opposite way.  Instead of parking and handling their business that way, they opted to hold up traffic.  Then they had the nerve to get pissy when the people being held up by them got annoyed about it.  That’s not the first time I’ve seen something like that happen on a military installation.  Folks, allow me to be the asshole who says that if you need to chat with someone while you’re both in different cars, please go park somewhere.  Parking spots are free of charge and plentiful, and the rest of us have shit to do.

Bill successfully changed out the headlight bulbs.  Then we went to Brauhaus Schoenbuch for lunch. We were waiting for our food when over my shoulder, Bill caught sight of a woman who inspired a most unpleasant memory from the summer.  She didn’t seem to recognize Bill as easily as he did her.  We were grateful when she sat on the other side of the dining room and did not come over and put her hands on either of us.  What a coincidence that we would be at the Brauhaus at the same time once again.  At least this time, my mom wasn’t with us.

Finally, after lunch, it was time to get on the road.  We headed down 8, grateful that we didn’t have to stop for lunch at the place we did on our last trip.  It was good to be fueled up and ready to go, not feeling cranky, hangry, or hearing the gaseous emissions of octogenarians.  The drive was mostly beautiful and uneventful as we headed for Seefeld in Tirol.

Just over the Austrian border…

 

Since we were just in the Tirol area in September, I had a bit of deja vu as we made our way toward the resort town near Innsbruck.  I had originally planned a stay in the city, but cancelled when I thought I was going to have to stay home.  When it became clear that I was going to get to take the trip, I went looking for another place to stay.  The rates at the hotel where I had originally booked had gone up a lot.  Suddenly, I remembered a video I saw on YouTube a few months ago.

A video about a beer spa at Hotel Diana in Seefeld.  Bill and I used an unseen third tub on the other side of the guy in this video.  

 

Having done a similar treatment at the Landhotel Moorhof in Franking, Austria, I knew we would enjoy the treatment in Seefeld.  Aside from that, it looked like a nice town and it was roughly halfway to Vicenza.  So I booked us a room at Hotel Diana, realizing that not only could we have a beer bath, but we would also be saving money.  The rates were significantly less expensive and more inclusive than they were in Innsbruck.  Our rate included breakfast and dinner, as well as parking and Internet.

We arrived at Hotel Diana at about 6:00pm.  We were warmly greeted by a bearded man who spoke excellent English.  He assigned us room 103.  It turned out to be a very impressive room, with a bedroom, sitting room, and hall, along with a large bathroom with a tub, towel rack, and shower.  There was a minibar stocked with affordable drinks, a bottle of free mineral water, two TVs, and two apples.  We also had access to a balcony.

Nice digs!

 

After checking out the room, we headed down to the dining room for dinner.  Two dirndl clad women were waiting for us and had a table set in a corner at the end of the room.  Neither spoke English and I had more difficulty than usual understanding them because I think the accent in Austria is different than it is near Stuttgart.  Nevertheless, they did present us with the set menu, which was in English.  Reading, I can generally do with not too much trouble.  It’s speaking and understanding spoken German that trips me up.  I had the opposite problem when I lived in Armenia.  There, I could speak and understand spoken Armenian, but reading and writing was a nightmare.

We both enjoyed a Gosser, which I used to drink all the time in Armenia.  It was probably my first exposure to European beer that isn’t mass distributed like Heineken.

We started with a little salad…

Then cream of rucola soup…

A Balkan pork appetizer that I can’t remember the name of offhand…  It was good.

And finally, I had the chicken leg with potatoes and vegetables…

Bill had pork medallions with hunter sauce (mushrooms, blecch!)

For dessert, there was apple strudel and vanilla sauce.

 

As we were about to enjoy the main course, two women showed up and were seated across from us.  They seemed to immediately tag us as Americans.  They whispered and giggled, while sneaking looks at us.  I was annoyed, mainly because I’d been in a car all day and just wanted to relax.  The fact that I took photos of the food seemed especially hilarious to these two as they tittered and snickered away.  I cast a dirty look at them, then we made a hasty retreat to our room.  We were both tired and ready for bed.  Bill scheduled a beer bath for five o’clock on Sunday.

Looks like the very same company that provided our beer bath in Franking.

Shots outside the hotel advertising the beer bath.  Oddly, they don’t really advertise it on their Web site.  There’s just a picture.  If you book on Booking.com, like I did, you’ll see it advertised there.

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A comparison of European beer spa experiences…

Now that Bill and I have experienced three different European beer spas, I think it’s time to compare them.  Although we’ll probably visit other beer spas while we’re living in Germany, the three we’ve done so far have been sufficiently different that it makes sense to write about them now.

I know a lot of people wonder what possible benefit one could get from soaking in beer or a beer/water mix.  Having now done it three times, I can honestly say that after each soak, I have had soft, shiny hair and smooth skin.  In fact, I have a sore on my back that was slow to heal and I have noticed that it seems to have finally scarred over after this weekend.  Was it really the beer that did it or just a coincidence?  I don’t know.  The main reason I like to go to beer spas is because I am a hedonist and I love beer.  And hell, it’s just a lot of fun!

The first beer spa we went to was Chodovar in Chodova Plana, Czech Republic.  Our visit was over Presidents Day weekend 2009, which also happened to be Valentine’s weekend.  We were very lucky to be able to book the beer baths there.  If I recall correctly, we managed to snag the last available appointment.  At that point, Chodovar had only been in the beer spa business for three years, though the brewery has been making suds for centuries.

Chodovar’s beer spa was the cheapest of the three we’ve attended and that’s probably still true today.  However, I noticed some differences between the experience in Chodovar and the experiences we had at the Landhotel Moorhof and the Starkenberg Brewery.  First off, the Chodovar experience is less private, though you’re supposed to bathe in the buff.

There are several pewter tubs in a room and sheets are drawn around them for privacy.  That makes it practical for the proprietors, who can offer beer baths to several people at the same time.  However, the mood is markedly different, since you hear people giggling and splashing in their tubs as they drink beer.  It’s more of a fun experience than a relaxing spa experience.  Also, after twenty minutes in the tub, the water cools down a bit and you’re ready to get out.  Then you go rest in a quiet room, swaddled in a thick blanket as you drink another beer.

After we had beer baths, Bill and I had massages.  I had a “complete” massage, which was about an hour’s worth of kneading and rubbing done by a young Czech man who spoke no English and actually watched me undress.  Ultimately, he did a very good job and was professional, but it was a little weird and awkward.  Bill had a partial massage on his back done by a woman who spoke a little German, but no English.  Again, a good massage, but a little awkward.

When Bill and I did this in 2009, we each had our own tub, though they were located side by side.  There is one double tub at Chodovar, but it was booked.  In a way, I think maybe I might prefer having a separate tub.  Younger, hornier folks might beg to differ.  Unfortunately, I forgot to bring my camera when we went to the Czech Republic for our spa trip, so I didn’t get any photos.  Suffice to say that I’d happily visit Chodovar again, though I think I’d rank it third in my list of beer spa experiences thus far.  I do see that they’ve expanded since our last visit, adding a pool and wellness area that looks very inviting.  Maybe it’s time to book another trip!  For a picture of the beer baths, click here.

Our second beer spa experience was at the Landhotel Moorhof near Franking, Austria.  The Moorhof’s beer spa is very different than Chodovar’s.  First off, the Moorhof’s beer spa doesn’t seem to be a focus of the hotel’s marketing.  Yes, they advertise it and even offer beer cosmetics for sale, but it doesn’t seem to be the main reason people stay there.  I was surprised by that, since the Moorhof is in a rural area that isn’t saturated with touristy activities.

The Moorhof beer spa experience is more private and seems more health focused than Chodovar’s.  There is one room with three beer baths and one that has just one bath, making it perfect for couples.  At the Moorhof, we wore bathing suits, although if we hadn’t wanted to wear them, we probably could have gone without them.  I think I would have preferred not wearing the suit, since the hops mixture used in the spa gets all over it and it’s not so easy to rinse out.  I liked that the spa tub was more like a hot tub than a regular bathtub.  The jacuzzi action was noisier, but at Chodovar, you hear cheesy pop music and giggles from other people.  At the Moorhof, you hear the motor of the spa and your sweet one’s loving words.  Or maybe you hear dirty jokes, as it was in my case.

After the beer bath, we rested in a straw bed for a half hour.  That was pretty nice, more comfortable than I expected it to be, and I preferred it to the communal experience at Chodovar, where several people were resting in the same room at the same time.

The beer spa was a little more expensive at the Moorhof and I wish we’d had our massages around the time of the beer bath rather than hours earlier.  However, I will comment that the massage therapist was a little less awkward than the one at Chodovar.  She spoke some English and was very competent.  She also seemed a little more conscious of modesty.

Our third beer spa experience was at the Starkenberger brewery in Tarrenz, Austria.  This experience was my favorite because it was pure hedonism.  Basically, it consisted of Bill and me frolicking in a big vat that was once used for fermenting beer and is now a “pool”.  There were no massages offered at this experience (at least not professional ones), but we were allowed to soak for up to five hours and drink all the beer we wanted.  In fairness to the other beer spa experiences, I can pretty much say that this was not really a health promoting activity.  However, it was a whole lot of fun!

Of the three beer spa experiences, Starkenberger’s was the most expensive.  It was also the most memorable and unique.  And, to be honest, for what you get over five hours in the beer bath, it may have even been the most cost effective, especially if there are four people (the maximum allowed) in your group.  That being said, I do want to comment that the Starkenberger experience may be the most risky.  There is a danger of drowning because you are pretty much left to yourself.  Remember, you’re drinking as much beer as you want and hanging out in hot water deep enough to swim in.  The beer is pretty potent and if you’re not careful, you could find yourself in real trouble.  Practice the buddy system!

Bill and I were actually talking about this last night… how amazing it is that you can go to a beer bath in Europe and be trusted not to either damage the property or drown yourself.  In the United States, you surely would have been asked to sign a waiver before jumping in the beer pool and/or there would have certainly been an employee there to supervise.  In Europe, it seems like people are expected to be responsible for themselves and not do stupid things.  Frankly, I find it a very refreshing attitude.

I don’t know when our next beer spa appointment will be, but I am always on the lookout for new spas to try.  And I see that since our last tour in Germany, there have been quite a few more that have popped up.  I am sure this won’t be the last time I write about bathing in beer or any other exotic substance.  For now, Starkenberger wins the prize as my favorite of the beer spas we’ve been to.

Edited to add: We have now been to four beer spas, having visited the one at Hotel Diana in Seefeld (much like the one at the Moorhof).  Starkenberger remains my favorite of all four experiences so far!

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Ten things I learned on the Beer and Fucking Tour…

If you read this blog, you may know that after a trip, I like to reflect on the things I learned.  This trip in particular was really about drinking beer and seeing places with funny names.  And yet, I did learn a few new things thanks to our trip to Austria.  So here goes.  This is some of the stuff I learned on our Beer and Fucking Tour.

1.  Austria is home to Highline 179, which is currently the longest pedestrian suspension bridge in the world.  It’s listed in the Guinness Book of World Records.  But there are also other suspension bridges located nearby that are almost as long and not as pricey to visit.  We had such a great time in the Tyrol area that Bill and I might have to go back and explore some more… and maybe cross more bridges.  The Holzgau Bridge is free, open to the public 24/7 365 days a year, and looks like it’s pretty picturesque.  On the other hand, Highline 179 is worth visiting because it has a great museum and the ruins are beautiful.

2.  If you are a beer lover and like beer spas, Austria is a great place to visit!  In fact, there is another hotel in Austria, close to the Tyrol region, that offers a beer spa.  Hotel Diana in Seefeld is a possibility for those who would rather not visit Franking, though personally I think Franking is well worth seeing.  We had so much fun there that we may have to make a repeat trip!

3.  Austrians use some words that aren’t that common in Germany.  For instance, when I was researching places to visit in Austria, I came across the word Jausenkarte (snack menu).  I asked on Facebook what it was and my German friend piped up and explained that Jausen means snacks.  I had never seen that word in Germany, though she said her family uses it sometimes.

4.  There are many places in and around Austria with names that are funny for English speakers.  We visited Fucking and Fuckersberg, but we didn’t make it to Kissing, Petting, or Wank Mountain.  Perhaps on a future visit…

5.  Swimming in a big pool full of warm beer water is super fun!

6.  I may have to get a dirndl of my very own, even though I used to wear one every day when I worked at Busch Gardens in Williamsburg, Virginia.  Though we mostly saw people wearing them while working in restaurants, I did see a couple of people wearing them out and about.  I also saw lots of cool Austrian fashions on the men, like lederhosen and beautifully made jackets and sweaters.  Maybe if I quit drinking so much beer, I can squeeze into some Austrian fashions myself.

7.  We need to take more road trips with my Mini.  We bought it on the way back to the States from Germany back in 2009 and it’s just now approaching the 23,000 mile mark on the odometer.  The car needs to be driven and it’s a lot of fun driving it in Europe!

8.  People drive like maniacs on the autobahn.  Seriously… yes, I’ve seen them near drive like maniacs where we live, but there were a few times on our road trip when Bill was doing about 80 mph and got passed as if we were standing still.

9.  Austria has snakes.

10.  I really need to get back to studying German.  And I need to learn how to not crack up when people are using public restrooms.

So pretty!

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