anecdotes

Blast from the past…

My body language says it all…

 

Yesterday was Throwback Thursday on Facebook.  One of my friends wanted to see a photo of me when I was a Peace Corps Volunteer.  A lot of my photos from that time period are in storage in Texas.  However, I do have some pictures from a trip I took in June and July 1996.  My friend Elaine and I went by bus from Yerevan, Armenia to Turkey and Bulgaria.  Our first stop on our trip was in Istanbul.  Even though Armenia borders Turkey, we couldn’t go there directly because Armenia and Turkey had no diplomatic relations.  We had to access Turkey via Georgia, which was in itself its own adventure.

Northeastern Turkey is one of the most beautiful areas I have ever seen in my lifetime.  It seriously looks like a fairyland.  The above photo was taken not long after an arduous ordeal at the Georgia/Turkey border, just a couple of days after my 24th birthday.  We were stuck at the border for most of the day and had spent a lot of time drinking vodka and waiting for the customs people and border guards to let us through.  We’d been sitting in a big field near the border that was filled with wildflowers… and little piles of human excrement.  Unfortunately, there were no bathrooms at the border, so many people had just copped a squat behind bushes.

Maybe an hour or two after the border crossing, we stopped for watermelon and more vodka.  At this point in the trip, we had been traveling for maybe 24 hours.  I was tired because I can’t sleep on buses… or at least I couldn’t in those days.  It took another two days to get to Istanbul.

Our bus from Yerevan to Istanbul.  About half of the seats were taken out to accommodate goods.  This bus went from Yerevan to Istanbul every week and was mostly used by people buying stuff in Turkey to sell in Armenia.  It was mostly empty on the way to Turkey, but was probably loaded to the gills on the way back.

The man in the first photo was an obnoxious Armenian guy who would not leave me alone.  He kept grabbing me and talking to me.  At one point, he commented on how fat I am.  When this picture was taken, he was trying to bond with me.  Just imagine… we’d been on a hot bus for more than a day.  He hadn’t bathed, brushed his teeth, or used deodorant in some time (if ever).  He was sweaty and reeking of cigarettes and vodka.  In the photo, I’m cringing, yet still somehow able to smile.

Another shot of our watermelon break.  Notice how the guys are squatting.  I always called that the “Armenian squat”.  You’d see men squatting like that all over the place.  I’m sure people around the world squat like that, but I never noticed it as much as when I lived in Armenia.  These folks were pretty nice to Elaine and me.  We were the only Americans on the bus, so we were invited to the party.

Back when I was there, Armenians loved having their picture taken.  When the guy in the photo saw me pull out my 35 millimeter camera with actual film in it, he insisted on striking a pose with me.  I don’t remember the guy’s name or even if he told me what it was, but he was just one in a string of males on that journey who offered unwanted attention to Elaine and me.  The funny thing is, we were both looking a bit scruffy during that trip.

Those were the days when I earned $5 a day as a Peace Corps Volunteer, so there was no money for anything other than the necessary and the practical.  Moreover, Elaine actually loaned me $500 so I could go with her to Turkey and Bulgaria.  After a year spent in 90s era Armenia, Turkey was like a modern wonderland.  Aside from the sexual harassment, we had a fabulous time.

You might notice the raw spots on my legs.  I think the wound on my left leg was caused by a shaving mishap.  I was trying to shave in the dark (had no electricity in my apartment) and I accidentally skinned my shin.  Both of my legs were also horribly chafed because a couple of days before we took off for Turkey, we attended a fundraiser for hungry horses at the Yerevan Hippodrome.  The organizers let us ride some of the horses.  I made the mistake of wearing shorts (which I NEVER did when I rode horses all the time).  While in the saddle, I rubbed some of the flesh off my legs.  Despite the injuries, that remains a great memory for me, because it was the first time I’d been on a horse since 1990 and I found I could still ride with relative ease.

I have wonderful memories of cantering effortlessly around the ring on a stallion, the very first one I ever got to ride in my lifetime.  That experience was well worth getting chafed legs.  I remember the guy asking me twice if I knew how to ride.  I have never been obviously athletic.  I promised him that I did know how to ride a horse, so he let me go.  People were surprised by my skills; most of them didn’t know I practically grew up in a barn.  Sadly, since that day, I have not been riding.  I have also not done any other three day bus trips on no frills transportation.  I can’t say that is my favorite way to travel, but it was definitely memorable and special.  I’m glad I had the opportunity.  I’d love to go back to Turkey now that I’m married.  šŸ˜‰

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Off to Rota!

The morning of Wednesday, January 22nd, Bill and I finally ventured to the tapas bar directly next to our hotel, Las Columnas.  We had noticed the place was often packed with locals.  That shouldn’t have turned us off, since any place where there are a lot of locals is usually going to be decent.  But I don’t like crowds and the place looked like it was one of those establishments where you sort of stand at the bar.  Nevertheless, we didn’t feel like spending 20 euros for a hotel breakfast, so we went to this place a stone’s throw from our hotel.

We weren’t disappointed.  Granted, all we had was bread, butter, orange juice, and cafe con leche, all of which tasted fine.  What made this place a winner for both Bill and me is that it has a lot of character.  The guys running the bar had a lot of personality.  I’m sure they get a lot of tourists during the high season, but the guy who helped us seemed genuinely surprised to see us.

I got a kick out of watching the barman flirt with the ladies.  Two middle aged women sat near us and he said, “Hola, ninas!”  Granted, my Spanish sucks, but I understood that he was calling them young ladies.  They giggled at the joke, as did I.  When another table opened up that gave them more room, they moved and said to the barkeep, “Nos cambiamos.”  It was at that point that I realized that the few days we’d spent in Seville had been good for me.  Not as much English is spoken there, so I was forced to use my crappy Spanish skills.  I told Bill that he would get some brownie points at his job, since he works with people who speak fluent Spanish and Portuguese, since they work with militaries in Central and South America.  It’s nice to know that neither of us sucks at Spanish as much as we thought we did.

After breakfast, we checked out of our hotel.  The lady who checked us out told us that her family had a home and a boat in Rota, which made me think it must be a nice town.  We then got a taxi to the bus station.  There, we would buy tickets to Rota, since the little town near Cadiz is not serviced by a train.  I went to Cadiz in 1997.  It’s very close to Rota, though you’d kind of have to go over water to get there efficiently.  Anyway, we went to the wrong building first.  A lady working there said, “La proxima edificioā€¦” and I understood that to mean “The next building.”  Yea me!

We spent about 22 euros for our tickets to Rota, which would make a stop in Jerez de la Frontera.  I knew that as the place where Harvey’s Bristol Cream sherry is made.  I remember seeing the vineyards for the sherry in 1997 as the train passed.  Since we were on a bus, we went through a different part of the city.  It took a little over an hour to get thereā€¦ Bill and I were one of maybe a half dozen people who were on the full sized bus.  He sat next to me, which he didn’t have to doā€¦ but it’s nice to know he doesn’t mind sitting next to me and my substantial ass.

No, that’s not an actual bull on the hillā€¦  It’s a big billboard looking thing.  Only in Spain!

 

When we stopped in Jerez, the bus rounded a corner where a guy in a leather jacket was unloading his car.  The bus almost hit him and the driver honked.  I happened to catch the disgusted look on the guy’s face.  Wish I could have seen the driver’s face.  I’m sure it said a lot.

Jerez has a lot of weird “art” on the roadā€¦ like this disturbing sculpture in the middle of a roundabout, and the horses and waving Michelin Man below…

 


The rest of the ride to Rota was easy enough.  In fact, it kind of reminded me of Texas.  I saw lots of cactus and crappy little shanties on the side of the road.  We pulled into the bus station, which is tiny and very close to Rota’s main gate.  Bill had planned on us taking a taxi to the gate, but it was so close we just walked there.  We got our passes and, since we already got stamped into Europe when we arrived in Lajes, all we had to do was get passes so we could get on and off the base.

After that little detail, we approached the gate guard, who asked if I had my ID.  I did, but it was in my purse.  The guy shrugged and said never mind, which kind of surprised me.  We started walking to what we thought was the Navy Lodge, where Bill had made reservations for two nights.  I must say, hauling the bags wasn’t so easy, though I’m fitter than I appear.  We stopped at the first lodging we came to, which was right across the street from the Naval hospital.  It turned out we were at “Navy Gateway”, which is not the Lodge but offers rooms.  The ladies running Navy Gateway said they had rooms available; they were slightly cheaper; and the Gateway was a tiny bit closer to the PAX terminal than the Lodge was.  She said the Lodge was really more suited to families anyway.  So with our approval, she called the Lodge and switched our reservation.

The Navy Gateway in Rota offered accommodations very similar to the Mid Atlantic Lodge in Lajes.  We had a bedroom, a bathroom, and a sitting room.  There were two TVs, a microwave, a fridge, and the free laundry room (except for the soap).  Better yet, the toilet flushed better and there was a tub/shower instead of a tiny shower.  Even the toiletries were better.

I commented to Bill, “Looks like it’s true that the Navy offers better shit than the other services do.”  I was kidding, of course, but this lodging was slightly better.

We dropped off our bags and started walking back toward the gate so we could get a better look at Rota, which happens to be a cute town.  I was pretty hungry, since we had a light breakfast with no protein.  When I do that, I usually end up ravenous after a couple of hours.  We had to walk a ways before we finally found a bar that had food.  Once again, we ate meat on a stick accompanied by large Spanish beers.  The barman didn’t speak much English, but he did bring out some delicious carrots marinated in some kind of brine.  We had a beef skewer and a chicken skewer.  I felt much better after we ate.  I find as I get older, my tolerance for hunger and dropping blood sugar is not so good anymore.

Waiting for food and beer…

The view from where I was sittingā€¦

After lunch, we walked down toward the beach and discovered that Rota has a big castle and a lighthouse.  There’s also a ferry, an Irish pub, and an American bar called “Honey Don’t Cry”.

Honey Don’t Cry!

Rootbeer signs on the wall near the pub…

Irish pub.  Would have liked to have tried this place.

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