hot dogs | The Traveling Overeducated Housewife

In the late afternoon of September 1, Bill, Ivar, and I landed at Hotel Klaustur, a pleasant hotel in Kirkjubaejarklaustur. This was the one hotel Ivar stayed in with us. It was the least fancy of the five hotels we visited, although it was perfectly fine for a night. I was just happy to see that it had a bar, because after all of the traipsing around in the wind and rain, I really needed a drink. Ivar had suggested stopping for a short hike to a waterfall, but I was cold and wet and not in the mood. I noticed neither he nor Bill objected when I said I’d rather not.

After we checked in to the hotel, I ended up making our dinner reservations, because Bill had urgent personal business to attend to. When the guy asked how many would be dining, I looked at Ivar, mainly because I didn’t want to be rude. And he, probably just as eager not to be rude, quickly said he was going to be dining with friends in town. I have a feeling that might have been a “white lie”, since I noticed the Land Cruiser in the parking lot while we were having dinner. But then, he could have walked or maybe his friends picked him up… Either way, it was no big deal, as I could certainly understand a guide wanting to take a few hours away from their clients.

Bill and I enjoyed a drink in the bar area. I had an Irish coffee that really hit the spot. Bill had a beer. We heard many American voices, especially when we sat down to dinner. I was a little crabby because I think I just wanted a quiet dinner, but everyone was seated in a sunroom, rather than in the larger dining room. The food was okay, although it wasn’t really my favorite of what we had on this trip. I have a feeling there aren’t a lot of nice hotels in the area, but I can’t confirm it.

After dinner, we went to our room, which Bill really had to push hard to get into. He was confused at first, and actually went to reception, where he was told he had to put his shoulder into opening the door. I was glad to see an extra pillow on a stand near the door, because the bed was made up in a style we’ve come to know in German gasthouses. But it had everything we needed, and we were soon watching the end of a movie with Heath Ledger in it. I wasn’t familiar with Ledger when he was still alive, but I can see why he was so famous. He was quite a hottie… and he had a lot of charisma. He reminded me of a filled out Andy Gibb. 😀 Below are a few photos of our room and the hotel itself.

In the morning, we saw Ivar in the restaurant. He invited us to sit with him, which we did. We bonded a little more. I think he was amused when Bill brought me a cappuccino without being asked. For some reason, Bill is very invested in making sure I drink coffee. When we met, I wasn’t that much of a coffee fan. Even today, I could take it or leave it, although I do like really good coffee. Bill needs it every day, and it’s the one thing I join him in, even if sometimes I’d rather have hot chocolate.

Ivar told us that where we were going in the Highlands is short on restaurants or other food sources. We would stop at a convenience store before leaving the area to stock up on water and snacks, and hopefully the “mini mall”, where we were headed, might be open for business. Fair enough. It turned out the snacks weren’t necessary, but they came in handy later.

This part of the trip is where the weather started to improve. I was continually stunned by how beautiful the landscapes of Iceland are, and the many vibrant colors in every place we visited. Even in the rain, Iceland is extraordinary. But it’s more enjoyable for me when it’s not raining… and on Monday, the rain finally let up a bit for us.

I took a whole lot of photos and a few videos as we headed into the Highlands…

A short video offering an idea of what the landscape looked like.

As we were making our way into the wilderness, Ivar explained that in the summer, sheep are allowed to run wild in the hills and mountains. Then, in the fall, they are rounded up and brought back to civilization. The lambs are taken for slaughter. Supposedly, Icelandic lamb is among the best in the world. I don’t like lamb myself, so I wouldn’t know. Bill does like it and he said it was very good. Anyway, during our visit, the sheep were still running free, but it’s about time for them to be rounded up by their respective owners. They are identified by markings left by the farmers.

Continuing on, we passed several deserted shacks, which Ivar said are used by the rangers who stay in the park for a couple of weeks at a time. We eventually stopped at a parking area, where there was a female ranger on duty. She informed Ivar that the WC wasn’t working, so Bill and I ended up finding a bush. Ivar laughed and said that Americans are always so private about peeing, while Icelanders are fine with just letting ‘er rip. Germans are pretty much the same way. When you gotta go, you gotta go.

We took a short hike that perhaps would have been longer if we (or I) had been fitter. I could have gone longer, to be honest. But it was just as well that we didn’t take a longer hike, because the day was very full, anyway. Below are some photos from our entry to the Highlands:

I found this part of the trip mesmerizing. It looked like something out of a different world, with happy sheep all over the place, peacefully grazing with no worries about predators. Ivar told us the only animal native to Iceland are Arctic foxes. Every once in awhile, a polar bear from Greenland might try to venture close. When they do, if they are spotted, they are usually shot by the authorities. Some reindeer were also introduced, although a lot of them died. The ones that survived are still around. I saw reindeer offered on a menu at a subsequent hotel.

After our brief hike, we got back into the Land Cruiser and continued on to a campground called Landmannalaugar, where there was a natural hot spring, bathroom facilities, and the aforementioned “mini mall.” To be honest, I didn’t find the campground that beautiful, but it was a very interesting stop. A lot of people go to this camp so they can hike the Fjallabak Nature Reserve.

The first thing we did was use the WC, which was very much a communal affair with many signs advising users what not to put in the toilets. Then we visited the natural hot spring. Some people were bathing in it. I was content to just crouch down and touch the water, which was fairly warm, but not that hot. After that, Ivar asked if we wanted to visit the “mini mall.” We agreed, so off we went… and that’s where we encountered a guy named Alex who cooks hot dogs and does boat tours from Iceland to Greenland.

Alex and his colleague(s) work out of several green US school busses that make up a small restaurant and shop. I got a kick out of one of the busses, because it was a Blue Bird Bus, probably made in my mom’s hometown of Buena Vista, Virginia. We made the mistake of going into the restaurant part of the “mini mall” first, and Alex kindly asked us to visit the first bus, make our orders and pay, then bring him the receipt. He also asked me to bring him a six pack of Stella Artois and promised me a freebie from the pack!

So we went into the little shop in the first bus and ordered hot dogs with cheese. Later, I told Bill I wished I’d gotten the hot dog without the cheese, since it was a little “musty”. Both Ivar and Bill were surprised, since they hadn’t tasted the cheese at all. We asked the shop dude for the six pack of beer. I noticed he was selling coffee to people and prompting them to buy shots of Bailey’s Irish Cream. They were doing a brisk business!

We went back into the bus where Alex was working. A female couple were there joking around with him. It turned out they knew him from his other business, sailing people from Iceland to Greenland. Alex is apparently popular on Instagram and has a business called The Laid-Back Company. After talking to him, I can see why he named his business that. He was quite a character. Dirty jokes were flying as we enjoyed the hot dogs. One of the women, who turned out to be from Alaska, presented Alex with a gift she’d brought back… it appeared to be some kind of baton. Alex asked if it was a dildo. She said it was a whale penis, and she was afraid it was going to be confiscated before she could present it to him!

Alex invited us to pick up a couple of stickers from the first bus, after he handed me the aforementioned free beer. I guess he figured we were laid back enough to join his laid back boat tour! The woman who gave him the gift said she loved Alex’s boat tour because he interviews all participants before the trip and makes sure they will be compatible with everyone. I will admit, it did sound like an interesting concept, and they were obviously very happy with Alex’s services. Maybe if we ever plan to go to Greenland, we’ll look into it, although if I know myself, I think I might get irritated by the non-stop dirty jokes. I do like jokes, but I have limits. As we were leaving, Alex was talking about a polar bear rug he had somehow acquired and was planning to hang on his wall. It was probably the right time for us to be going! Below are some photos from our stop at Landmannalaugar.

I enjoyed meeting the folks at the “mini mall”, and they gave me a surge of energy for our next stop of Lekafossar… an incredible waterfall system that wasn’t too far away. That was a good thing, since it had started raining again and was getting cold and windy. I’m still so glad we stopped here for this:

As beautiful as those waterfalls are in my pictures, they were even more beautiful from our vantage point. But we couldn’t stay long, because the skies were darkening. So we climbed back into the Land Cruiser and continued our journey toward Hotel Geysir, our Monday night accommodations. On the way there, we stopped for one more waterfall… Unfortunately, I don’t know what this one is called. I’ll see if I can find the name of it and will update accordingly, if I am successful.

Well, this post is now pretty long, so I think I’ll end here and pick up in the next post with our check in to Hotel Geysir. See you in the next part!

We had big plans for Saturday. As I mentioned before, Bill has an interest in the work of Carl G. Jung. His home and museum is located in Küsnacht, which is on Lake Zürich. Jung died in 1961, but his home is still in the hands of his descendants, who live there. Because of that, Carl Jung’s museum is not open every day. In fact, it’s only open on Thursdays and two Saturdays per month during the summer season. We were very fortunate that we happened to be visiting at a time when Jung’s house would be open. Bill purchased our tickets online prior to our visit, thus guaranteeing us a spot on the tour. You can buy tickets on the day of your tour, but only if space allows. The first floor of the exhibit is self-guided, but the library and Jung’s office can only be visited as part of the tour, which is about fifteen minutes long and conducted in German or English or both.

Also on the agenda was a stop at the Fraumünster church in Zürich, home of stained glass windows created by Marc Chagall, a French-Russian artist of Belarusian origin. I’m not a particularly religious person, but I do like visiting European churches and admiring the architecture, windows, and pipe organs. Our friend Meg had suggested seeing Chagall’s windows, as well as a few other places that, sadly, will have to wait until the next visit!

After breakfast, we headed downtown, which was very close to the hotel, but was made more complicated by the construction zone I mentioned in part one of this series. Then, once we got to the city, we had to find parking. Unfortunately, Bill chose to park at a garage owned by an upscale department store, not realizing how very expensive it would be. A whole day’s parking at Jelmoli’s garage cost about 49 Francs! Bill was impressed when the machine spit out a paper to help him remember which level he parked on… well, there’s a price for that kind of service, isn’t there? 😉

Anyway, we were blissfully ignorant of that when we parked and set off toward the church. It was five Swiss Francs to enter the church, but it was fine to take pictures and visit the crypt museum. I liked Chagall’s windows fine, but I actually preferred the other windows, which were made by Augusto Giacometti. The crypt museum was just opened in 2016, having previously been sealed from the public. The pipe organ, which consists of 6959 pipes, is the largest in the entire canton of Zürich. The church itself dates from July 21, 853! Below are some photos from our visit to Fraumünster.

*Chagall’s famous windows… We will have to see the ones he did for St. Stephan’s Church in Mainz.*

After we left the Fraumünster, we went to the Grossmünster, which is very close by. On the way there, we ran into a wedding party… actually, there were a bunch of them on Saturday. I saw at least three brides in dresses having pictures taken and quaffing champagne. Augusto Giacometti also made windows for the Grossmünster. Below are some photos from that period between churches.

Once we were finished looking at the windows, it was just after noon. I wanted to eat lunch (and pee), mainly because I have a tendency to get “hangry” when I get hungry, and our tickets were at 2pm, which I figured would put me over the line of hostility. I suggested lunch after our church visits, but Bill looked at his watch and said he was concerned about the time. I reminded him of what I’m like when I’m hungry. Again, he said he was worried about missing our appointment at 2:00.

At that point, he wasn’t sure if we were driving or taking a boat to the museum. I told him to make up his mind. He told me it was my choice. I got pissed off and said, “You’re always trying to lead until it’s time to make a decision. Either lead, or don’t lead. This museum visit is important to YOU, and you’ve done the research, not me.”

So then we headed toward the dock… and I said, “So, hot dogs for lunch, then?”

Bill tried to deny that was what was coming… but when we got to the dock, sure enough, that was what was available. So I made him pose for a photo. The short lake cruise takes about 90 minutes to go round trip, or you can do one way trips or get off at stops. And, for the curious, yes– there are concessions on the boat, and bathrooms. I think Bill paid about 6 Francs per adult for our tickets. It’s a pretty good deal, especially for Switzerland. Below are some photos from our pathetic hot dog lunch and our cruise to Küsnacht.

I almost forgot to mention, while we were waiting for the boat to arrive, we wound up standing near a group of obnoxious young Americans. One was a guy, who looked to be about twenty or so, and there were also three or four young women, who looked to be the same age.

The guy was very obnoxiously smoking a pipe, trying to look cool and failing miserably. I wanted to grab the pipe from him, because it was bad enough we were all standing in line, waiting to board the boat in masks. He had to pollute the air with a pipe, too… and he looked really stupid in the process. And making matters worse was that they were loud, talking about their adventures in Geneva and other areas of Europe. I did agree with one of the young ladies, who said the weather was agreeable. I’m sure that wherever they came from in America, the temperatures were a hell of a lot higher. The pipe smoking guy, though… he was making my temperature rise with temper. What a clueless jackass! I was glad they didn’t follow us to Jung’s house and we didn’t bump into them again.