Czechia, Eastern Europe, Slovak Republic

Our Eastern European October… part four

Onward to Stary Smokovec, Vyoske Tatry…

On the morning of October 4th, we had breakfast in the hotel restaurant, and I heard a friendly British guy warning the waitress that some of his buddies would soon be descending on the hotel to play golf. That told me it was a good thing we were vacating the premises. Not that we have anything against Brits or golfers. It’s just that groups in small venues tend to take over in an obnoxious way.

Chateau Cilheny does appear to be quite popular with Germans. Many of the people staying there were from Germany. In fact, a German couple saw us drive up in our car, with its plates from Wiesbaden, and proclaimed that we’re neighbors, as they were there from nearby Mainz.

I managed to finish reading my most recent book while we stayed at Chateau Cilheny, so I decided to write a review in the hour before we departed for Stary Smokovec, in Slovakia. Then, after we loaded the Volvo and checked out, we made our way east.

Early in our Sunday drive…

In retrospect, it was a good thing we decided to move eastward on Sunday. The Czech Republic has a lot of roads under construction, and on weekdays, they back up a lot due to more people on the roads and workers actually working. As it was, it took us over seven hours to reach our destination.

I don’t actually have a lot to write about the drive, as soon we got on a major highway toward Prague, and then onward to Brno. Bill had been in Brno the week prior for a business trip, and he had lamented about the terrible traffic and roadworks being done there. Fortunately, it wasn’t too bad on that Sunday.

We stopped for lunch at a very crowded rest area that had a KFC and a McDonald’s. We opted for KFC, but Bill got himself a wrap that he said wasn’t very good. I was smart and stuck with original recipe, although KFC doesn’t taste like it did in the 70s and 80s. Especially not in Europe, where they don’t even give you biscuits!

I did get some nice pictures, though, as we drove through some very pretty country in Czechia and Slovakia.

Below are a few last images of Czechia…

And then we entered Slovakia…

The border took us through Trenčín, a city in the western part of Slovakia that I remembered from my 1997 visit. There is a large castle there, and you can see it from the road. I remembered seeing it as we passed it on the railway, too. I managed to get a few shots of the castle as we passed. If you happen to be in the area, you can visit the castle.

After awhile of driving on a nice Slovakian freeway, the GPS directed us to a less major road that had some construction. Bill got confused about a turn he was supposed to make and continued going north. It was about twenty minutes before he realized his mistake, and the GPS put extra time on our estimated arrival.

I am not a big fan of using GPS myself, so I got out my iPad and looked up a map of the area. I told Bill to take a different road going east, which I hope would get us back on track. Fortunately, my hunch turned out to be right. We drove through a few picturesque towns as the sun began to set. I was astonished by how beautiful the scenery was. The weather was beautiful, and the colors were absolutely brilliant.

The pretty views made it somewhat easier to take when we were stuck in a long queue of cars on a two lane road. It took about ten minutes to get through the jam, before we were able to make a left turn onto the road that we were originally supposed to be on before our little detour. It was good that we hadn’t gone that way, because it was even more backed up, and from what I could tell, not nearly as beautiful as our unexpected detour had been. I kept thinking to myself that sometimes the deviations turn out to be welcome surprises for the senses.

We finally stopped for a pee break and some gas. Bill called our next host to let him know we’d be at panoraMic Mountain Residence within the hour. I chose this self catering accommodation because it got stellar reviews. I had considered booking at a hotel, and even thought maybe we’d like the nearby Kempinski, which overlooks a pristine lake. But the panoraMic Mountain Residence was a lot less expensive, and seemed to be right up our alley. It turned out to be a good choice, although we did have trouble finding it, once we got to Stary Smokovec. It was very dark on the roads, and we had no moon to help us with lighting.

Once we parked the car, a bit punchy from the long drive, the host came out to show us our lodging. It was a very cozy apartment themed after the novella, “The Little Prince”, by Antoine de Saint-Exupéry. I have never read that story, but if I’d wanted to on our trip, I could have. Our host had copies in many different languages.

Below are some photos from our lodging. It was the least expensive place we stayed on this trip. For three nights, I paid $545.

The host had this awesome masonry heater lit up for us on our arrival. We didn’t need it, though, because the temperatures were very pleasant.

Bill told our host that we were hoping to get something to eat, since we hadn’t had a chance to stop for dinner. He very kindly called up the folks at Stary Smakovic— a local restaurant– and they advised that we could come there, but we’d have to leave immediately. It was about 7:30 PM, and they closed at 9:00. The host was even kind enough to lead us to the parking area, which we’d already found as we were looking for his apartment.

Stary Smakovic offered a lot of meat dishes. They had steak, burgers, ribs, goulash, and chicken, as well as local delicacies. I suspect this restaurant is especially popular with men, given how the waitress was dressed. It did the trick for us. Bill decided to have a traditional Slovak dish made with sheep’s cheese. I went with a surprisingly tasty cheeseburger, although the chair reminded me that maybe I should have had a salad.

On our way back to the apartment, we encountered a magnificent buck with a full set of antlers. He was very close to our apartment. I hoped we’d see him again, so I might get a photo of him. Unfortunately, it wasn’t meant to be. He sure was majestic, though, and seeing him set the tone of the magical beauty in this part of Slovakia.

And now, I’ll close this post, so I can start the next one fresh, with plenty of photos of the rugged Slovakian Tatra Mountains…

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Czechia, Purchases

Our Eastern European October… part four

On Saturday, October 3, I hoped we could go back to Karlovy Vary and visit an area called Diana. It’s a park that offers trails, a mini zoo, a butterfly house, a restaurant, and a lookout tower, among other things. I wanted to go there for most of those things, but I especially wanted to see their peacock, Frosty, in the mini zoo. Frosty is so named because he’s white.

I had seen pictures of Frosty and was enchanted by his unusual look. Frosty is not your typical Indian peafowl. Aside from the peacock, the mini zoo also has a petting zoo, which includes goats, mini pigs, and ponies! I know I’m 54 years old, but I turn into a little kid when there’s a petting zoo.

After breakfast at the hotel restaurant, I realized that I had forgotten to bring a jacket or sweater with me. The weather had been warm when we left Germany, but I worried about cooler temperatures, especially on the later segments of our trip. So we decided to visit Karlovy Vary’s Globus.

I’ve written about the Globus chain before. It’s an enormous “hypermarket” that is so big it puts Walmart to shame. I actually hate visiting the one in Wiesbaden, because it’s so huge and overwhelming. I almost always leave there feeling exhausted. But, on this particular Saturday, Globus was a successful stop. We managed to find some Il Santo flavored mineral water, sold by Chodovar, that I fell in love with in 2009, but can never find outside of that region in the Czech Republic. We also found a bottle of ten year old Ararat brandy, Chodovar beer, and a birthday present for Bill’s grandson.

I did NOT find a suitable jacket at Globus, but I did find one next door at the Decathalon Store, which is a chain that specializes in exercise and outdoor wear. I got the sense that they didn’t see too many Americans at the Decathalon Store, as the cashier, a teenaged girl who spoke English, beamed at us when we thanked her.

After we went to the Globus, we made our way to the city… and promptly found that parking was practically impossible to find. The weather was beautiful, with sunny skies and pleasant temperatures. Consequently, there wasn’t a parking spot for love or money in the city. Then I realized that the lack of parking also meant the city would be positively teeming with people, and that would be quite annoying for both Bill and me. So, although I was sorry to miss seeing Frosty, we decided to go elsewhere.

We set off toward a smaller spa town called Mariánské Lázně, which we remembered from our 2009 visit to Chodovar. We thought maybe we might have better luck finding parking there, and could walk around the town. On the way there, I took lots of photos. The drive was on an enchanting two lane road through forests and mountains. I even saw a deer grazing in a woodsy meadow on the side of the road.

A sign for a trout farm. We have these in Germany, too. They’re kind of sad, but they do offer fresh fish!
Can you spot the deer?

Alas, it was the same story in Mariánské Lázně. It seemed like everybody was out and about… not that I could blame them. October 3rd was a really nice day for sightseeing in the Czech Republic. I did manage to take a few photos from the car… I think this town is one I’d like to see more of. Maybe if we come back to this region, we’ll stay in Mariánské Lázně, instead of Karlovy Vary.

So we kept going through Mariánské Lázně, and started looking for a place to have lunch, mainly because Bill really needed to pee. At one point, we thought we might have found a spot, but it, too, was lacking parking. Bill ended up having to pull over on the side of the road to pee. But at least the scenery was beautiful. Look at these views!

After awhile, we found ourselves on a familiar road… It was the one that led to Chodova Plana, which is where Chodovar is. There are two restaurants at Chodovar, so we decided to see if we could have lunch there. At first, it looked like we might be out of luck again, but then Bill drove around to where Chodovar’s cool cave restaurant, Ve Skále, is. Much to our delight, he managed to score a parking spot! Soon, we were walking through the “cave” entrance to the dining room, still familiar after 17.5 years!

In February 2009, we stayed at this hotel! It was nice then… and probably still is, today.

Below are some photos from Ve Skále… which really saved the day, and filled us up for the rest of the evening! I had duck, with delicious Czech style potato dumplings and red kraut. Bill had trout again…

This is the way to the restaurant…
These beer glasses were studded through the entrance.
Those dumplings were surprisingly good, but I could only eat one or two. I don’t know how people eat four!
Chodovar is now making Il Santo cola!

Ve Skále was a great place to stop. It’s a unique restaurant with good food, huge portions, and excellent beers and other beverages. If you speak German, and happen to run into a staff member who can’t speak English, you’ll be in luck. Our waiter spoke English very well and was super cute, too.

When I used the restroom, I realized by their familiar pleasant aroma, the staff had stocked the soap dispensers with the brewery’s own cosmetics. I remembered buying them on our previous visit, and was delighted to stop at the gift shop on the way out and get more. We also got a six pack of 1.5 liter bottles of Il Santo Hoppy, which is a non-alcoholic drink the brewery now makes.

I’m pretty impressed with how much the “Beer Wellness Land” has grown since 2009. They now have a pool, whirlpool, Kneipp therapy, and a couple of specialized saunas. Unfortunately, Chodovar’s Web site still really sucks. But they DO have some great products– from drinks to shampoo! I wish it were easier to get their products from Germany. So far, I’ve only found them offered priced in euros on a site that sells truck parts! Make no mistake, though… they smell great, even if they are made of beer!

After we ate at Chodovar, we headed back to our hotel on the outskirts of Karlovy Vary. Since we were no longer exploring, it didn’t take long at all. I still got a few more fall photos…

We decided to have a couple of beers for dinner, instead of food… Then, we headed back to our room for our last night in the Tower Room. In the morning, we’d be rising early to make our way to Stary Smokovec, Slovakia…

Chateau Cilheny’s salon. There’s a piano in there, and one rather “ballsy” young woman we ran into at breakfast with her friends, was playing it.
I sure don’t miss the spiral staircase! But it was a unique room…

Unfortunately, I have brought back a souvenir from our trip. Bill and I are both sick with nasty colds (or some other icky virus). So, for today, I’m going to stop here, and maybe tomorrow, if I’m not dead, I’ll write about our all day travel to Slovakia’s gorgeous High Tatra Mountains. See you then…

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booze tourism, Czechia, Eastern Europe

Our Eastern European October… part three

After my rather dramatic and explosive first night in Karlovy Vary, I was ready for some breakfast. So after I did my morning hygiene routine, I made my way down that pesky spiral staircase and got dressed. We left our bags in the sitting room, because hauling them up that spiral staircase would have been a real pain in the ass. I wonder how in the world they got the furniture in the bedroom. I’m sure it’s easily explained somehow…

We went back down to the restaurant… the scene of the pickle crime that had me barfing hours earlier. They laid out a very nice buffet, with plenty of choices. Bill and I fueled up, and then headed out to the city for a few hours. The only thing on our agenda was visiting the Home of Becherovka, a museum dedicated to Becherovka herbal liqueur, which is made in Karlovy Vary.

On our way into the city, we encountered the first of many horse drawn carriages. Interestingly enough, it was in the news yesterday that Mayor Zohran Mamdani of New York City has now brokered a deal to end carriage rides in New York. This measure, which has been discussed for years, has come about due to the death of a teen who was riding in a carriage in Central Park when the horse spooked and had an accident.

I have my own opinions about the carriages, but then, I am someone who literally grew up with horses. It’s important for them to have jobs. Most people can’t afford to keep horses as pets. On the other hand, there have been instances of abuse in the carriage industry. The horses we saw in Karlovy Vary appeared to be healthy and well cared for… but I am certainly no expert on this issue as it is in Eastern Europe. Bill and I did not take any carriage rides, but I did enjoy seeing and smelling the horses. I really miss having them in my life, but keeping them is expensive and requires a lot of hard work! They are wonderful company, though.

We found a paid parking lot on the immediate outskirts of the city center. I noticed some cops standing by. One of them had a cute little dog on a leash. I’ve never seen a police dog like this one…

I’m not sure what job this pooch does…

As we headed into the city, I instantly recognized the Teplá River, the warm river that flows through the center of Karlovy Vary. Teplá means warm in Czech, and the river is fed by the many hot springs in the city. I took some photos of the colorful buildings we encountered as we walked into the familiar environs. After almost 18 years, it was still pretty recognizable, even though we didn’t spend that much time there in 2009.

A Mix Markt! This is a chain that specializes in products from the former Soviet Union. We have them in Germany, too.

As we headed closer to the main square, I caught sight of a vendor who was making chimney cakes. I took a few photos for Bill’s daughter, who lives in Utah and loves them. Someday, Bill and I will have to try one. There were other things on sale, too… only I didn’t see any art.

Except for the mushrooms, this grill smelled and looked great!
These goats were way up on the side of a mountain. I zoomed in to get this photo.

Soon, we encountered the first of the mineral water springs, where one can taste the thermal waters. I remembered the gazebos from our first visit, which is also incidentally, where we found my favorite painting in my collection, back in 2009. I took a video of our first tastes of the water, after we bought spa cups. The spa cups are easy to find. They are sold in kiosks around the many springs.

Yes, that is a toilet. I have a very irreverent sense of humor.

Naturally, I took some photos, too… It was very helpful that the locals provided instructions on how to best “enjoy” the water. If you listen to my video, you will hear me say that it reminded of Gloucester in 1980. I grew up in Gloucester, Virginia, and in those days, the local water was pretty terrible tasting. It was full of sulfur. They have since put in a water system there, so the water is now better. My parents, fortunately, had a well, so our water wasn’t as gross in the early days of our time living there.

Karlovy Vary really is a very pretty city…

We had an appointment to visit the Becherovka Museum at 1:00, so we had to make our way to the other side of town. On the way there, I took a few more pictures, including one of a woman’s art. I wish we’d had the chance to go back and take a closer look at what she had. It turned out hers was the only art collection with paintings that we saw during our entire trip! Everybody had mass produced prints, instead of original artwork.

I remember when beer spas were a novelty. Now it seems like they’re all over the place!

It was raining on the way to the museum. We got there a little bit early, so we took the opportunity to use the bathroom. Then, we took our guided tour… Bill got us “exclusive tickets”, which meant we each got personalized bottles of Becherovka to take home with us.

The guide who did our tour spoke excellent English, and we enjoyed learning the history of this very special Czech drink. The museum is very interesting and well put together. I thought the exhibits were fun and engaging. And it was fun to try the different flavors of products made by Becherovka. We came home with several different bottles after our visit.

After we visited the museum, Bill and I had lunch at a local place… It wasn’t all that “special”, but it did give us a chance to people watch and enjoy some heavy local cuisine. Bill got to have some garlic soup, too, which is a local specialty in Czechia. I need to learn how to make it, because I think it would be good for when I’m sick. Sadly, I think I’m getting sick now. 😢

Halloween is coming!
Chicken schnitzel for me. I think Bill had goulash.
The garlic soup was very pungent.
Our waiter had quite the turd cutter…

Once we finished our leisurely late lunch, we decided to head back to the hotel. As we walked out of the city, we passed a political rally, and stopped by the Mix Markt for some wine and a bottle of Ukrainian vodka from a producer we like.

On the way back to the hotel, we passed a body of water. I noticed a lot of people were going down to walk near it. There was also a picturesque looking hotel… but it wasn’t quite as cute as the one we stayed in…

Our room was in the tower… the top three levels of windows.

Since we had a late lunch, we decided to skip dinner. We enjoyed some Georgian wine in the room, along with a few snacks from the hotel’s vending machine. You have to use a credit card to use the machine. That is so weird to me, as someone who grew up in the 70s and 80s!

So ends our first full day on vacation. In the next part, I’ll write about our quick change of plans, and a visit to a Czech Globus!

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Czechia, Eastern Europe

Our Eastern European October… part two

Stop number one: Karlovy Vary, Czech Republic

Our long awaited fall vacation began on Thursday, October 1, 2026. The first stop was Karlovy Vary. I chose it after agonizing over a couple of other cities I’d had in mind. I had based our trip around visiting Slovakia, a country I first visited in 1997, but had never really explored in any meaningful way.

Prior to this year, I had only visited Zilina, Slovakia in 1997, because I was meeting a couple of friends there for a train trip through western Europe. One of them was at the university in Zilina, getting training in Information Technology. Although I did get to spend a couple of days in Zilina, I wasn’t really there to do any significant touring. Bill and I did spend a few hours in Bratislava, back in 2015, but again, it wasn’t really much of a proper visit.

Once I had decided to go to Slovakia, I needed to figure out stops that would break up the trip. Slovakia isn’t that close to Germany, if you’re driving. Bill and I also don’t have the stamina we once had. I had originally considered stopping in Gorlitz, which is a German city right on the Polish border, but then I discovered other areas near Gorlitz that I wanted to see. I knew two whole days wouldn’t be long enough to satisfy me if we went there on the way to Slovakia.

That’s when I remembered lovely Karlovy Vary, a spa town that is also known as Carlsbad. Karlovy Vary is in the western Bohemian region of Czechia, but there was a time when it was annexed to Germany. Bill and I had visited Chodovar, a brewery, beer spa, and “wellness land”, for a long weekend back in February 2009.

I remembered venturing out to Karlovy Vary and Plzen on that trip, mainly because Chodovar is located in tiny Chodova Plana, and there wasn’t much to that charming hamlet, back in 2009. They have expanded the resort quite a lot since then, and in 2026, it might be interesting enough to spend the entire time there. But in 2009, we definitely needed daytime excursions. So, one day we went to Karlovy Vary. The other day, we went to Plzen.

In 2018, we visited Plzen again, and discovered garlic soup, as well as a very cool open air museum dedicated to communist era planes! I remember liking Karlovy Vary more than Plzen, back in 2009. Now that we’ve been back to Plzen, I definitely appreciate that city more than I did in 2009. But we were long overdue to see Karlovy Vary again, if only so I could get some pictures and taste the famous spa waters that flow there.

I booked us the Tower Room at the Chateau Cihelny, a bucolic property adjacent to several golf courses, located just outside of the city. Bill and I don’t care about golfing. We like unique properties, especially if they aren’t obviously part of a corporate chain. This hotel had the appearance of offering us a chance at peace and quiet. It also had a wellness area that I found attractive. As it turned out, we never got around to hitting the spa. Aside from the chateau, there is also a less expensive lodging option on the grounds that seemed more geared toward families.

On October 1, 2026, after Bill dropped Charlie and Noyzi off at the Hundepension, Bill and I loaded up the Volvo and headed east toward Czechia. Since Karlovy Vary is relatively close, we didn’t get started on our drive until late morning. I’d say it’s about a four-and-a-half to five hour drive from Wiesbaden. Below are a few photos from the drive.

An example of a play area for kids in a German rest stop.
Nordsee for lunch!
The border
Almost at the border…
Now we’re in Czechia! Notice the different spelling.

We arrived at Chateau Cihelny in the late afternoon. Bill and I were both kind of tired from the drive, and the chateau turned out to be further out than we had anticipated. There is a tiny train stop near the hotel, but it had very limited service. Still, the property was very pretty, so we weren’t too upset about missing the city on the first night. We went into the hotel to check in, where we were met by an affable young man who spoke great English and had a droll sense of humor.

While we were checking in, the guy told us that we’d booked a very special room, but it was going to involve climbing a lot of steps. He was not lying about that! There is no elevator in the Chateau Cilheny, and I had reserved the Tower Room, which is a very unique and interesting room. You might even call it spacious… The room is in the chateau’s “tower”, which makes it different from the other rooms in the hotel.

The Tower Room, pictured below, has a spiral staircase in it. You have to climb those steps to get from the sitting room to the bedroom and bathroom. Bill counted thirty narrow steps. It was a bit of a pain… but again, the room was very unique, and offered a nice balcony overlooking the beautiful grounds. There’s also another spiral staircase in the bedroom, but that just leads to a locked, boarded up window. There is no point in climbing those, unless you just want some extra exercise.

Steps to the bedroom and bathroom.
Huge bathroom. There is a step leading down into the bathroom that tripped Bill at least once.
Sunken tub
Staircase to disappointment
But it did give me a chance to take an aerial view of the bedroom.
View
Door to the balcony
View
Check out the fancy tower
Another view

To even get to the Tower Room, one must climb several long flights of stairs. There’s a bench and sitting area on the second floor, which came in handy for us as we went to our room. It’s definitely a place where you can get a workout, especially if you’re on the third floor, and staying in the Tower Room, which requires even more stair climbing. Who needs a Stairmaster?!

Below are some more photos from the hotel. I thought it was a very tastefully decorated place. I especially liked the art on the walls.

I rested on that bench more than once!

We decided to have dinner at the hotel’s restaurant. That also required a walk down steps, as it’s located in the basement of the chateau. The food and service were very good, and on the first night, they were playing excellent Generation X friendly music. Bill had trout, and I had pork knuckle that was removed from the bone. Along with the pork came delicious, fresh pickles that went down easy… especially with the Pilsner Urquell beer.

This was sooo good…
Bill liked his trout, too.
Apricot filled dumplings with Schmand.
Apple struedel

After dinner, we went to bed. The mattress wasn’t particularly comfortable, but I was tired and drifted off. A couple of hours later, I woke up desperately needing the bathroom. I realized, as I was sitting on the toilet, that I really didn’t feel well. Let’s just say stuff was coming out of both ends, although fortunately not at the same time. I was afraid that maybe I got food poisoning or something, but it turned out that wasn’t the issue.

Bill got up when he heard me vomiting. He asked me if I was okay. I was perfectly fine, once everything was purged. I later looked up pickled vegetables and learned that they can upset the stomach if you aren’t used to them. What a shame! Dinner was delicious, and I truly enjoyed the fresh pickles. I probably should have just tasted them, though, because I think that’s what didn’t agree with me.

I went back to bed and managed to fall back to sleep. The next morning, we enjoyed our first breakfast at Chateau Cilheny, and a trip to the city, where we tasted the water and visited the Becherovka Museum. I’ll write more about that in the next installment.

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Czechia, East Germany, Eastern Europe, Polska, Slovak Republic

Our Eastern European October… part one

An introduction of sorts…

Well… as I wrote yesterday, we are now home from our epic autumn journey to Eastern Europe. I write Eastern Europe because our almost two weeks away took us to FOUR different countries! We visited Karlovy Vary, Czechia (or Czech Republic, if you prefer). Then, we went to Stary Smokovec, Slovakia (or Vysoké Tatry). From Slovakia, we moved on to Krakow, Poland. Then, we ended in Dresden, Germany, which was once part of East Germany.

As a child of the 70s and 80s, it always amazes me when we visit former “Eastern Bloc” countries. When I was growing up, these were places that were completely off limits to “westerners”. I never thought there’d be a time when we could simply drive to the former Czechoslovakia or Poland.

I thought East Germany would always be forbidden to someone like me. In fact, I remember writing a social studies report about the two Germanys when I was in the sixth grade, and being completely shocked that Germany was divided. I hadn’t known. And now, over 40 years later, here I am living in Germany, and visiting the East with ease! Not only can I easily visit the East, but I can also have a really good time there, because Eastern Europe is nothing like it used to be. But then, I guess it’s just a reminder that I’m getting old, and time is really flying.

I had some specific goals for this trip… and for the most part, my goals went unmet. I had wanted to visit Auschwitz, for instance. That didn’t happen. I thought maybe we’d go to Saxony Switzerland. It was not to be. I didn’t even get to see Frosty the Peacock! But now we have a reason to go back to these fascinating countries and see even more of what we missed. I already have a couple of itineraries in mind.

This trip ran from October 1-13th, which means that my October, so far, has been spent on vacation in Eastern Europe. We took a long break because it had been awhile since our last one, and Bill had some leave to burn. He’s been working very hard over the past few months, so his employer kindly allowed us almost two weeks away from Hessen.

We probably would have come home on Sunday, the 11th, but we had a holiday yesterday– Columbus Day or Indigenous People’s Day, depending on your views. So, we decided to make the most of the extra day off and squeeze in Dresden, a city we had last visited in November 2008.

We had also visited Karlovy Vary previously, back in February 2009, but that was just for a few hours. The weather was freezing that day, so we didn’t get to explore much of the city. I also didn’t have my camera with me on that 2009 trip. Now, I have lots of pictures of Karlovy Vary and its environs! It was worth going back there for that reason, alone!

Anyway… enough with the intro. Time to get down to business! This will probably be a pretty long series. Most readers will lose interest after the first couple of posts. Nevertheless, I’ll keep writing. At the end, I’ll do my usual “ten things I learned post”, which people seem to appreciate more than the exhaustive blow by blows.

We did not do a lot of touristy stuff on this trip. Instead, we enjoyed soaking up the atmosphere, people watching, and taking lots of photos. We also ate rich food and drank a whole lot of beer. 🍺 For most of our trip, we enjoyed mild, and mostly sunny weather. The fall colors were absolutely stunning! Just the beautiful foliage alone was a feast for the eyes. But we also had some interesting interactions, ate good food, and picked up some fun souvenirs.

So, without further delay, on with the series. Here are a few fall photos to get things started… I took these on a drive we took on day three of our vacation, while we were still in Czechia!

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East Germany, Eastern Europe

Our fall vacation is now over…

Bill and I got home about 90 minutes ago. We’re both pretty tired and busy with settling in, so I’m not going to try to write about the trip today. I will save that for tomorrow, which is usually the day of the week when I wash the sheets. Since we haven’t been home, and I washed the sheets just before we left, I won’t need to do that chore this week. 😊

This trip was rather long, and it encompassed visits to areas in four countries. Each place we visited was special in its own way. I took a lot of pictures, although we didn’t do a lot of “touristy” stuff. We mainly drank a lot of beer, did a lot of walking, and enjoyed each other’s company.

I think my favorite stop was Krakow, followed closely by Stary Smokovec, but each place was pretty awesome. We had great weather, too, until the tail end of our journey.

The drive home was kind of yucky, especially when we stopped for lunch at a rest stop. It was just beyond the Hessen state line, and the rest stop was one of the weirdest laid out ones I’ve yet encountered in Germany or elsewhere.

When we got out of the car, it was raining… that kind of cold, light, but fast drizzle, that gets you wet in a hurry. I noticed a woman sitting in the car next to ours, wanting to get out of her vehicle. I hurried to close the door, and then Bill and I had to wait for a couple of cars to pass.

By the time we found the front door of the rest stop, we were really wanting to get out of the rain. Unfortunately, it wasn’t as easy as we’d hoped. One could enter the building on either side of the building, and the two entrances were not easy to get to without walking the long way around the building.

The side we happened to be on had a single door, with a sidewalk leading up to it. For some reason, there was a barrier on the opposite side of the walkway from the building, meaning that everyone had to walk in and out of the building in kind of a single file.

As we were heading toward the door, rushing to get out of the cold, drizzly rain, a woman and her daughter were coming out of the building. The girl, who looked to be about nine or ten years old, stopped in front of me and suddenly vomited on the sidewalk.

I took this photo from the table where we had lunch. You can see there’s a barrier that prevents one from walking around slowpokes or vomiters…

She was under the shelter of a roof, but I was standing there in the falling rain, watching her throw up on the sidewalk. Her mom was right behind her, holding her hair. Fortunately, there wasn’t a lot of puke, but the two of them kind of took their time, and blocked the egress into the building. I felt sorry for the girl, but I’m sure my face registered irritation, because I needed to pee, and we were about to have lunch.

The woman and her peaked daughter finally got out of the way, so we could enter the rest stop. But once we were in the building, we encountered a large group of elderly folks. I suddenly realized they must have been on the busses that were parked outside.

To get to the toilets, we had to follow a series of signs, and go down a couple of flights of steps. As we were trying to go down, they were coming back up to the dining room.

Fortunately, there wasn’t a wait for a stall. In fact, an attendant was even cleaning the toilets as I was trying to find one. And these toilets were the self-cleaning kind anyway, which I don’t actually like that much, because the seats are usually still wet from being automatically cleaned whenever I encounter them.

Once we finished “doing our business”, we had to maneuver through more throngs of people having lunch. But then, after we ordered our crummy Burger King sandwiches, the crowd dissipated, and the place was somewhat sedate.

Not the greatest lunch… It was basically all they had besides cold, pre-made sandwiches, which usually have cheese that I don’t like. What a crappy rest stop! But at least it was there.

Unfortunately, the “mess” was still on the sidewalk where the poor queasy lass had left it. I started feeling kind of nauseated myself as we passed it. I was really afraid I was going to sympathy hurl. Fortunately, I managed to get over my disgust. That was a good thing, because I almost lost breakfast at the beginning of our drive home, thanks to a coughing fit.

Anyway… it’s good to be home. I look forward to seeing Noyzi and Charlie in a little while, and writing about the new things we saw and did on this long awaited vacation to Eastern Europe. But… most of all… I look forward to sleeping in my own bed. I really missed my soft bed while we were away. And now that the weather has turned to shit, maybe that will also mean the mosquitoes are done, too!

So… with that, I’m going to close this post. See you tomorrow with my tales from the trip! I promise they won’t be as gross as this one is. 😊

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blog news, Czechia, East Germany, Eastern Europe, Slovak Republic

In the middle of our trip…

I just wanted to drop a quick note on my travel blog to let y’all know that we’re doing fine on our trip from the Czech Republic to Slovakia to Poland to Germany. We are now in Krakow, and I have so many incredible photos to share next week, when we get back home.

This is a great time to be in Eastern Europe. The weather is amazing, and there aren’t a lot of crowds. I look forward to sharing the stories of what we’ve been doing when I get back to my desktop computer and have time to write everything in detail.

For now, here are a few photos from Slovakia… I would like to add more, but trying to upload photos from a laptop is a real pain in the butt. Trust me, though… there’s a lot more to report on. For now, I’m going to get dressed and go see Krakow. See you next week (or possibly sooner, if the mood strikes!).

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booze tourism, Czechia, German lifestyle, German politics, Hessen

A late September wine stand in Breckenheim…

Greetings, blog readers. The weather in Germany is positively awesome right now. The sun has been shining, and it’s been warm, with the slightest chill in the air, signifying that autumn is well on the way.

Bill got home from his latest trip– a super short jaunt to Brno, in the Czech Republic. He was there for just two nights, and had to fly to Prague, and then drive 2.5 hours to Czechia’s second largest city. He didn’t get to see anything there, because he was staying on the outskirts, in a non-descript, unexciting area.

Then, he had to leave Brno at about 3:00 AM, to ensure that he’d make his return flight to Frankfurt yesterday. I think these business trips are getting very tiresome… but the work Bill does is important and interesting. Sometimes, it’s even fulfilling, or culturally enriching.

We’ll be leaving for our road trip to Eastern Europe on Thursday, and we have one stop in Czechia– Karlovy Vary (Carlsbad). One of the Czech officers Bill met on his most recent trip told him we should pay a visit to the Becherovka Museum in Karlovy Vary. I hadn’t even considered that, but now I think maybe we’ll try to do that. I do like that liqueur, and God knows, I enjoy booze tourism.

Last night, we had another wine stand, hosted by the SPD (Social Democratic Party of Germany). Our neighbor, Pete, who ran an unsuccessful campaign last year, was behind the grill cooking sausages. We said hello to him, and the friendly guy standing next to him, helping to man the grill.

I didn’t go to the previous wine stand, because it happened while Bill was in Budapest, and I was taking a break from drinking. Besides, since my German is Scheisse, people don’t really talk to me. However, when Bill and I are together we do get to talk to people. Such was the case last night.

We were first greeted by a guy we met over the summer, who has a lovely dog named Stella. I think she’s a sheltie or a miniature collie. Stella stayed home last night, but her master had a chat with us. We told him about our upcoming trip, and he told us he’s going to Norway for three weeks. That will be cool… LITERALLY!

He ate pizza and hung out with a couple of his other friends, while Bill and I partook of pork sausages. We don’t usually get the sausages at the wine stands, because they are served in rolls that don’t really fit them and are a little challenging to manage. But we didn’t have anything readily available for dinner, and I had kind of been craving a bratwurst.

They also had the beef sausages, which I had at a previous wine stand. The beef varieties are also good, but I think Bill and I both prefer the pork ones. And I tried the roll below, which was covered in poppy and sesame seeds. It was delicious. I could have just had that and been delighted. The sausages and bread were a bargain, at just nine euros!

I suspect our new friend probably likes to see us at the wine stands. I’m not naive, though. I’m sure part of the reason he likes us is because we always get there early, and usually, no one ever sits with us. So that means there’s almost always a place for him to sit and eat pizza with his buddies. 😁

I really enjoyed the bread… I forgot what it’s called. I’m sure the birds were happy for the fallen seeds.
Prost!

After our dog loving friend left, we were greeted by Boris and Gaby, whose names I’ve finally memorized over years of hanging out at village events. This couple is older than we are by a couple of decades, and they don’t speak much English. But they are fun loving, friendly, and eager to communicate. I always enjoy seeing them, and with a little effort, we can chat.

I dare say it’s good practice for us and our German skills, and for them and their English skills. 😁 And it’s a valuable reminder to regular people that just because our POTUS is trying to alienate everyone, that doesn’t mean all Americans are in agreement.

Gaby and Boris brought a friend with them. She didn’t speak English, either, but she lit up when Bill told us we were going to Karlovy Vary. It turned out she was born there. Gaby was a little confused, but then her friend reminded her that Hitler had annexed that part of the Czech Republic, so when she was born, it was considered part of Germany. Again– it was called Carlsbad, back in the day.

We told their friend that we had been to Karlovy Vary before, but only for a day trip. In February 2009, we visited Chodava Plana, a little hamlet where Chodovar Beer is made. We were there to try out the spa at their Beer Wellness Land, which has really expanded in the 17 years since our last visit!

I would definitely be up for another trip there, especially since our visit was spoiled by Bill’s asshole ex boss and narcissistic war buddy, making contact with him to tell him that he’d “pulled strings” to get us moved out of Germany a year early. 🙄 At the time, I was really pissed off… but as you can see, we have more than made up for that lost year. And war buddy later got very publicly fired after abusing troops, and was forced to retire early. 🤭

I like to remind myself that people who are narcissistic assholes usually get exactly what they deserve, in the long run. The thought of that keeps me warm and helps me sleep at night.

We decided to leave when it got noticeably colder, and Bill and I both realized we needed to pee, and didn’t want to use the public WC. So we said goodnight to our local friends and headed home. Bill needed to go to bed after his very long day.

I’m not sure what we’ll do today. The weather is still beautiful. In earlier years, we might have gone out to enjoy it. Today, we’ll probably get some household chores done before we take our long anticipated trip east.

Wiesbaden is a real treat, though! I do enjoy living in this neighborhood. I think it’s my favorite of all of the places we’ve lived so far… and happily, at this point, it’s the place where we’ve lived the longest.

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art, Bulgaria, Eastern Europe, Hessen, Hungary, services

Picture framing, heavy German food, and beer…

Bill got home from Budapest on Wednesday, and he brought three new prints with him. If I had gone with him on that trip, he would have bought bigger prints. But, I can’t complain about the art he picked up, because they’re pretty much my style. They are from a Kenyan-British artist named Marcus Goldson, who moved to Budapest in the early 1990s after having trained as a sculptor.

Goldson initially couldn’t afford the materials he needed for sculpting, so he started sketching, and took his art career in a whole new direction. I don’t know if he sculpts now, or just does watercolors. Obviously, he’s got a good business going in Budapest, serving tourists like Bill and me.

Since we were already going to visit Kunst-Schaefer to get the new art framed, I decided to get some older art redone. I bought two paintings in Sofia, Bulgaria, when we visited in 2024, plus I had another painting that I bought in Sofia back in the summer of 1996. My friend, Elaine, and I took a bus from Armenia to Turkey, and then onward to Bulgaria, for a vacation.

Although I was completely broke at the time, Elaine lent me the money to take the trip with her. We had a fabulous time, and I managed to pick up a small blue tinged painting of a windmill. I wish I’d bought another one, because I really like that piece of art, and I must not have paid much at all for it, because I had no extra money whatsoever in 1996. Of course, it’s going to cost about 160 euros to get it reframed!

We parked at the Marktplatz, where the weekly Saturday market was going on full tilt. It seemed like everybody was out and about yesterday, as the weather was beautiful. I would have liked to have walked around the market, but we were on an important mission.

Some folks were drinking wine in the morning!

I’ve mentioned before that, when I was growing up, my parents ran their own business out of our home. My mom had a knitting, needlepoint, and cross stitch shop, and she taught countless people how to do needle crafts. My dad sold art and did custom picture framing. So, being in an art gallery is very natural for me, because I literally lived in one for years. 😏

Bill and I made our way through Wiesbaden’s posh streets and walkplatzes to get to Kunst-Schaefer. We passed buskers playing piano, accordion, saxophone, and guitar, adding their own elements of atmosphere to Wiesbaden’s bonny streets.

The street where Kunst-Schaefer lives…

When we arrived at Kunst-Schaefer, a young lady welcomed us. She was with a customer, so we took a moment to look around the gallery to see if there was anything I’d want to hang on the wall. Of course, there were things there I would happily purchase, but I’d rather spend the money on another art scouting trip… the next of which we will be commencing in about ten days!

The proprietor showed up, having stepped out to get some baked goods for his Sunday breakfast. He personally dealt with us, as we showed him six pieces to be framed.

Budapest finds. I love the cow’s ass.
Our Bulgarian art.

It didn’t take long to decide how we would be framing everything. Regular shadow box frames for the Bulgarian paintings, and a plain black frame for the windmill. Colorful frames and matting for the Budapest prints. All of it should be done while we’re on vacation, and by then we’ll probably have another batch that needs to be done. Before we present a VAT form, the total comes to about 700 euros.

By the time we were finished with the framer, I really needed to find a restroom. Bill and I decided to have lunch. For some reason, I was in the mood for German food, so we headed back toward the Marktplatz. Maybe it was because I found out that one of the towns we once lived in, Fredericksburg, Virginia, now has a snazzy German restaurant.

On our way there, I noticed that BrewDog Wiesbaden had closed. I either didn’t know it was going to close, or had forgotten. Bill and I went there a few times for craft beers and sandwiches. I think the last time we went was at Christmas last year. But we didn’t know then that the place would be closing in January 2026, and in September, no one else has set up business in the beautiful old building where it was situated.

I guess the Scottish style craft beers at BrewDog never quite caught on in Wiesbaden. Some people complained about the quality of the food and mice in the restaurant, but our personal experiences dining there were never bad. Too bad… it was a reliable lunch choice for us. But I guess it just goes to show that we hadn’t been downtown in ages! ETA: My German friend says BrewDog basically went insolvent, got bought out by an American company, and the new company didn’t want to operate in Germany anymore. At this point, there are still locations in Hamburg and Berlin.

We went to the Ratskeller instead, where we knew we could have beer and some very decent German food. Because it was so nice outside, we ate outdoors… where we were accosted by many bees. Or were they wasps? I wasn’t going to let them get close enough to find out for sure. I heard one American lady loudly complaining about them. ETA: My German friend says they were wasps.

Schweinebraten for me, and Frankfurter Schnitzel for Bill…

My only complaint about lunch is that it wasn’t served as hot as I would have preferred. But the food tasted good. I especially enjoyed the Schweinebraten and the delicious brown gravy made with beer. I was hungry, too. Managed to eat the whole potato Knödel, and some of the Rotkraut, and washed it down with a Weizen. Bill loved his Frankfurter Schnitzel with green sauce and fried potatoes. He had a Helles.

After we ate, we had another round… I had a Doppelbock, while Bill had a Radler. We made the waitress laugh when we tried to say “Doppelbock” properly. Bill had a taste of my rich, dark, malty beer, which came from a bottle.

The source of the bees?

Finally, we were finished with our leisurely lunch, and decided to head home. There, we enjoyed the rest of the afternoon out on the patio, listening to music and savoring the last warm gasps of summer. The silver lining is that my mosquito bites are finally healing, and pretty soon, they’ll be gone.

It was nice to go to Wiesbaden again, and enjoy a nice lunch in the sunshine. I always enjoy visiting the art guy, too, and patronizing a business that helps us preserve our memories so beautifully. Wiesbaden sure is a lovely city, and we’re now at the point at which we’ve spent the most time of our married life living here. It really feels like a privilege. As much as we both enjoyed living in the Stuttgart area, I think Wiesbaden suits us somewhat better. If only because I seemed to get yelled at less often here. 😉

Well, that about does it for today’s travel post. Pretty soon, this blog will come alive with posts about our next travel adventure, which will take us back to Czechia, Slovakia, Poland, and then a return trip to Dresden. So watch this space! Bill has to go to Brno next week for a couple of days, too, but I don’t get to accompany him. Bummer.

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Hessen

A visit to Martino Kitchen’s “new” location…

When Bill and I first moved to Wiesbaden in late 2018, we surveyed the local eateries. One place we quickly found was Martino Kitchen, which was at that time, located within a hotel and next to a Feinkost. We dined there for the first time in April 2019. I remember raving about the innovative menu, and the wild garlic soup Bill ordered that blew my mind.

Our second visit to Martino Kitchen, when it was still in its old location, was in November 2019. Once again, I enjoyed our visit. That time, we got to sit at the shared “chef’s table”, and I got to watch the chefs hard at work.

Then 2020 came, and we all remember what happened in 2020… We didn’t visit Martino Kitchen again until November 2023, just before Bill and I visited Armenia. We stopped in for lunch after I bought a gift for my former student from my Peace Corps days. He now works as an associate director for Peace Corps/Armenia. I remember being somewhat less impressed by Martino Kitchen that time, although the lunch we had that day was fine.

In July 2024, Martino Kitchen changed locations and moved to a smaller venue right off the Marktplatz in Wiesbaden. I wanted to try the new location, especially since the menu seemed to have changed somewhat. Unfortunately, we usually go to Wiesbaden on Sundays, and Martino Kitchen is closed on Sundays and Mondays. They also only do lunches on Wednesdays and Saturdays, and we don’t often go out for dinner these days.

Finally, a couple of weeks ago, Bill asked me if I’d like to go out to lunch. We remembered Martino Kitchen and Bill went to see if he could score us a table. There were no reservations available at the end of August. We figured they were on vacation, and after yesterday’s visit, I suspect we were right. Anyway, he made us a reservation for yesterday afternoon at 1:30 PM. I see from their Web site that congratulations are in order. In 2026, Martino Kitchen got a recommendation in the Michelin Guide!

In spite of a brief traffic jam, we arrived at Martino Kitchen slightly before our appointed time. There was one party of three sitting out on their terrace area, and one party of three sat in their very small dining room. I was surprised by how tiny the new space is, but I have to admit, the location is excellent. It’s right next to the music school on the Marktplatz.

We decided to sit inside, mainly because the chairs looked more comfortable to me. As I took a seat next to the window and looked outside, I was doubly glad we were indoors. One of the ladies sitting outside was smoking pretty much non-stop. Fair enough, since that’s allowed here. I’m just glad I had the choice to avoid it.

When we sat down, a woman I now recognize as Kathi from Martino Kitchen’s Web site, welcomed us. I noticed the menu was somewhat different from what it was at the old location. It seemed to be more focused toward Italian food, which suits me fine. We ordered a bottle of sparkling water, and Kathi asked us if we were from the United States. We said we are, but we live here in Wiesbaden. She apologized that she only had menus in German, and we reassured her that we know “restaurant German!”

Kathi said she had just gone on a trip to the western part of the United States. She listed lots of places I’ve never been, since I come from the East Coast! I was relieved to hear that she had a great time during her vacation to our homeland.

We quickly decided on what we wanted for lunch. Bill opted for the melon gazpacho with mozzarella as a starter and the “catch of the day”, which was grilled tuna with seasonal vegetables and risotto. I opted for the salmon tartare and spaghetti carbonara. Kathi soon returned to apologize that they’d run out of gazpacho, so Bill ordered their insalata verde, instead. She also told me that my spaghetti would be linguini, which was fine with me.

We had some lovely fresh bread and Bill ordered a bottle of white wine from Abruzzo, in Italy. Meanwhile, more people sat down inside, and a couple more tables were occupied outside.

After a short time, our first courses arrived. Bill was very pleased with the salad, which came with very sweet tomatoes, romaine lettuce, goat cheese, and what tasted like peaches. My salmon was served with capers and lemon. It was supposed to have Schmand (sour cream), but I didn’t see it there. That was okay with me, though. I’m not a big fan of sour cream, anyway. Kathi said they’d see the setup for my salmon dish in the States and ordered it for the restaurant. I’m not sure what was in the bowl under the salmon… looked like seeds or some other decoration. I didn’t investigate.

Next came our main courses. Bill’s beautifully prepared rare tuna was served with cauliflower and Pfifferlingen mushrooms, as well as creamy risotto. I had been considering the tuna, but since I had mushrooms, I’m glad I opted for the carbonara, which was excellent. It was satisfying, without being too rich! The presentation was also very nice.

Since lunch was so good, we decided to have dessert. That was a good call, since they had their delicious cheesecake. I had forgotten how good the cheesecake is at Martino Kitchen. It’s very creamy and light, and yesterday’s version came with plums and a scoop of chocolate ice cream. I had the tiramisu, which was also light and creamy, but tasted of coffee instead of fruit, with coffee soaked ladyfingers at the bottom of the bowl. 😁 I probably should have had the cheesecake, though… It was a real star!

We finished off our wine and called for the bill, which came to about 140 euros. After last week’s lunch at Landhaus Diedert, we were pretty pleased with the price for yesterday’s indulgence. No, it’s not exactly “cheap eats”, going to Martino Kitchen, but it was significantly less expensive to dine there. We had a very nice time, and I’m sure we’ll be back again.

Kathi said she recognized us… which wouldn’t necessarily surprise me. On the other hand, I’m sure they see all kinds of us “Amis” around. The whole staff made us feel very welcome.

After lunch, we decided to go home, because we thought there was going to be an event by the fire department in the Dorfplatz. On the way to our car, we encountered a German couple who shared the elevator with us. They said something in German that I didn’t understand, but then I said it looked like the elevator canceled our floor request. The Germans, who were very friendly said, “Oh, English speakers!” It was pretty funny, and flattering… We certainly do pass as locals, until we speak! Below are a couple of ads for the local casino, near where we parked.

As it turned out, the fire department’s event was elsewhere (and it’s apparently still going on today), and we didn’t feel like hunting for it. So we went back home, and ran into one of our American neighbors who was celebrating her birthday. She was wearing a beautiful red dress. Later she came by and invited us over, but by then, I was already in my nightie and sitting outside with a beer. So, we decided to stay home… I kind of suck at parties, so we probably did her a favor.

The weather has gotten very nice over the past few days. Today, it’s sunny and pleasant, with a cool breeze. I’m hoping that soon, I can close the windows at night, so the mosquitoes will stop eating me alive. I don’t like spraying myself with OFF before I go to bed.

Bill has to fly to Budapest in the morning, so I think today, we’ll just relax at home, even though there are some events going on right now that might be fun to attend. Bill will be gone until the middle of next week, so I will probably be doing a lot of music projects. Hopefully, I’ll feel like it, anyway.

So ends today’s “travel post”. I hope it was edifying!

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