Bulgaria, Champagne Bucket trips, Eastern Europe

Ten things I learned (or was reminded of) in Sofia, Bulgaria…

Alrighty, then. This should be the last Bulgaria post for our most recent trip to the Balkan country on the Black Sea. If you’re a regular reader, you may already know that I almost always cap off my trips with “ten things I learned” lists. Some people seem to like these over the blow by blow chronicles. So here goes.

10. Bulgaria’s time is an hour ahead of Germany’s.
When my friend Elaine and I visited Bulgaria in 1996, we went by bus and traveled from Armenia through Georgia and Turkey to get there. We crossed two time zones, which was kind of bizarre, because in spite of its huge size, all of Turkey was in the same time zone. That meant there was a two hour difference between Georgia’s time and Turkey’s. Now, Georgia, Turkey, and Armenia have stopped changing the clocks in the summer, so the time difference between Turkey and Georgia is only one hour. And Bulgaria is far enough east from Germany that it’s one hour ahead of us. Bulgaria still observes Daylight Savings Time.

I should have tried this.

9. English is widely used in Sofia.
I don’t know how it is in the smaller cities and towns of Bulgaria, but I was amazed by how many people spoke excellent English in Sofia. That was not the case when Elaine and I visited in 1996. I only encountered one person who wasn’t an English speaker on last week’s trip.


8. McDonald’s are everywhere in Sofia!
When I visited Sofia in 1996, there were only two McDonald’s restaurants in the entire country. The first McDonald’s in Bulgaria was opened in December 1994 in Plovdiv. The second one opened in 1995 in Slaveikov Square. During my visit in 1996, I spent a lot of time loitering near that McDonald’s, because Elaine and I had crashed with a Peace Corps Volunteer, and Elaine had gone to visit a friend of hers. One day, I kind of got lost wandering around Sofia, and ended up taking a taxi. The driver didn’t speak English, so I asked him to take me to McDonald’s. I couldn’t do that trick today, though, because Sofia has McDonald’s all over the place. I understand they’re not so popular anymore, though, because there are many BETTER restaurants in Sofia now!

Follow the Yellow Brick Road!

7. Sofia’s iconic golden bricked road was meant to make the city look more like a “capital”.
Both times I visited Sofia, I wondered about the yellow bricked roads in the center of town. They are very unusual looking, especially compared to other parts of the city, where it’s easy to see shabby buildings from the communist era, crumbling from age. I researched the yellow bricks and learned that they date from the early 1900s, some years after Bulgaria was liberated from the Ottoman Empire and Sofia was named its capital. Sofia was chosen because of its location, and not because of its beauty. In those days, the city didn’t have much decent architecture to speak of. In 1907, Sofia’s mayor, Martin Todorov, decided that the city needed something unique. He decided on the yellow cobblestones, which cost a lot of money, but definitely gave Sofia some sparkle. Nowadays, the yellow bricks are a challenge, because they aren’t so easy to procure when they become damaged and need to be replaced.

Not quite free beer.

6. Sofia is still relatively cheap to visit.
While the city has luxury accommodations and restaurants, they are less expensive than in other cities. Taxis are also easy to use and won’t break the bank. But if you prefer an even cheaper option, you can take Sofia’s metro or one of its many trams. Or, you can do what Bill and I did, and just walk everywhere. Sofia is a pretty walkable city.


5. Sofia is home to religions of all kinds… and they all seem to coexist peacefully.
If you walk through Sofia, you will see many interesting religious buildings. The oldest one dates from the fourth century! But not only will you find churches, but you will also find a synagogue and a mosque, and they all operate near each other, apparently in basic harmony.


4. If you plan to visit Sofia’s famous Alexander Nevsky Cathedral in the summer, be sure to cover your limbs.
This is a basic truth for many religious sites, but I’ve found it to be especially true in orthodox churches. You should not attempt to visit when you’re wearing shorts, skimpy sundresses, or otherwise indiscreet clothing. You may be asked to leave or cover up if you ignore this advice.

3. Be sure to stop by the flea market outside of the cathedral.
In 1996, I bought a small painting at that flea market. I remember paying the Bulgarian lev equivalent of about $6 for it. In retrospect, I wish I’d bought another. The artist had a few similar ones for sale. We went again on Monday and bought two more paintings that I love, although I saw a few on Saturday that I thought were even more interesting. I noticed in Armenia and Bulgaria that Saturdays are the best times to visit markets, if you want to find something cool for your home.

2. Bulgaria is a fascinating mix of different cultures.
The language is Cyrillic and sounds a lot like Russian, but the weather is more like Turkey and Greece. The food is a tantalizing mixture of different cultures, and you can also enjoy excellent beers, wines, and juices. I wish we could have gone outside of Sofia on this trip, as I know firsthand that Bulgaria has a lot to offer beyond the capital city. I want to go back and visit caves and hang out at the beach.

And finally 1. Sofia is a great place to go if you’re not wanting to be overrun by tourists…
I was kind of surprised that there were Americans in Sofia, but there were not nearly as many as there likely are in Dubrovnik right now. We were originally thinking of going to Dubrovnik, since that was the location Bill picked out of the Champagne bucket. I’m glad we went to Sofia, instead. It was fun seeing the city again after so many years… and it’s still a pretty authentic place to go, even though there’s been a lot of business development since 1996. I wish we hadn’t gotten sick, but at least we’re on the mend now. After my upcoming medical journey, we’ll plan our next adventure. At this point, it looks like it’s going to be Iceland…

So stay tuned!


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Eastern Europe

Cheap thrills in the Czech Republic! Ten things I learned!

Every time I go somewhere, I like to make a list of ten things I learned on my trip.  The Czech Republic is no exception!  Here goes!

In Cesky Krumlov…  another place I need to see again.  I climbed this tower, too.  Phew!

10.  It helps to speak some German if you go to the Czech Republic.

A lot of younger people do speak some English, but you’ll find it’s not as prevalent there as it is in other western European countries.  Bill and I have noticed that a lot of people speak German and some speak more German than English.  So, if you’ve been trying to come up with a reason to try harder to learn German, that’s one right there.  It might help you communicate better in the Czech Republic.

9.  It’s still super cheap to visit the Czech Republic!

Although it’s in the EU and its economy has picked up in recent years, the Czech Republic still has its own currency.  And it’s still really a cheap to visit this country.  For our three nights in a rented house, food, gas, and beer, we spent about $635.  And we didn’t economize.  If you’re looking for cheap and work at it, you can really score a bargain by visiting the Czech Republic.  However, if you want to save money when changing money, don’t go to a Wechselstube.  Visit a bank or ATM instead.

8.  There’s a lot to do in the Czech Republic… so much so that you may have trouble choosing.

Especially if you like beer, which Bill and I do.  You will have plenty of breweries to tour, beers to taste, and even some to soak in it if you are so inclined!  But if beer isn’t your thing, you can still visit churches, museums, zoos, and take tours of other historical sites.

7.  If you are an aviation or military buff, you should try to visit the Air Park in Zruc-Senec.

For about five bucks a head, you and your buddies can walk around a very cool museum where there are tanks, airplanes, helicopters, and the like.  In the summer, there are guided tours, though in the winter, you are less likely to encounter crowds.  The museum has been open since 1993 by a father and son and is continually expanding.

6.  I love garlic soup!

Garlic soup is a Czech treat and it supposedly cures hangovers.  That’s a win for me.  I would also imagine it’s great for when you’re sick with a cold or flu.

5.  Parking is cheap or even free.

I was surprised to find out that parking at Pilsner Urquell is free.  The nearby parking garage, which is within walking distance, is super cheap and secure.  It also has clean bathrooms that are free to use.

4.  I’m still fit enough to climb 301 stairs and not collapse.

Self explanatory.

3.  It’s okay to do yard work on Sundays.

This is only a surprise if you’ve lived in Germany for awhile.  I’ll probably go through another culture shock when we move back to the States someday.

2.  What Czech cities lack in aesthetics, they make up for in heart.

I’ll admit my first impressions of Plzen after a nine year break were kind of negative.  It’s an industrial city and there are lots of factories belching filth into the sky.  There are lots of ugly communist era buildings.  There’s plenty of trash and pollution that we don’t necessarily see in Germany or France.  However, once I was there and mingling, I realized that Plzen has sort of a scrappy charm that appealed to me.  I noticed the ugly factories less and focused on the older architecture, the delicious food and beer, and the warmth of the people, who were welcoming and kind, especially to our wallets!

*Note- Prague doesn’t count as lacking in aesthetics.  It’s still a beautiful city!  And cheap, too!

1.  I want to go back… soon!

There are still parts of the Czech Republic I want to discover.  High on the list is Brno, which I hear is an undiscovered and unspoiled gem.  I’ve heard it’s even cooler than Prague is, which is a tall order indeed.  If we stay here long enough and run out of places to see, maybe we’ll do a Czech tour of sorts.  I think that could be a fascinating trip!

Five Petalled Rose Festival in Cesky Krumlov, back in 2008.  That is a great time to visit the medieval town, because people dress for the occasion!  This festival takes place in June.

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