Eastern Europe, Hungary

Ten things I learned in Budapest, Hungary…

Here it is, the much anticipated “ten things I learned”, post… /sarcasm. Seriously, though, when I take trips, I like to take a few minutes to reflect on the new things I learned thanks to travel. And I did learn some new things in Hungary, this time. So here’s my latest list of ten things I learned, Budapest, Hungary edition!

10. The word “tilos” means “silence” in Lithuanian. In Hungarian, it means “forbidden”.

Interesting, huh? I noticed that word on signs in churches in Lithuania, when we went there in June, so I looked it up. Then I saw it in Hungary, but I didn’t go into any churches while we were there. So that word is used in two different countries and languages to direct people in how to behave.

9. Old Forints are worthless in Hungary.

When Bill and I took a taxi into Budapest, a cab driver gave Bill change for the ride. In the change, he included an old 1000 Forints note, which Bill gave to me. Later, I tried to spend it, and learned that Hungary changed its currency and the old notes are now worthless. We probably could have taken it to a post office, but we’re going to send it to Bill’s grandson, instead. The bigger note below is now worth nothing.

8. English is EVERYWHERE in Budapest.

I know I shouldn’t have been, but I was surprised by how very widespread English is in Hungary. Lots of signs were in English, and all menus were translated. A lot of people didn’t even speak with a heavy accent. In a way, I was kind of disheartened by how much English is used there. But it did make things easier for us tourists…

7. Speaking of tourists, they were also everywhere in Budapest!

On Friday night, I was especially aware of how many tourists were in Budapest. It felt like waves of visitors. I wonder what it’s like for the natives, having to deal with so many throngs of tourists congesting the city. Yes, they spend money, but they also make it hard to even just walk around downtown. One day, I counted FIVE Viking River Cruise ships. There were other cruise companies there, too.

6. You can see a lot of things in Budapest, just by walking around the city.

I only made it to one museum, and yet I saw plenty of stuff for free, just taking daily walks around the main drags. And there was a whole lot of stuff I didn’t see. I could go back there, spend a week, and still not see everything. I’d like to go back and spend more time on Margaret Island.

5. Someone built a Michael Jackson shrine in Budapest, and it’s “unmolested”…

4. If you love music, Budapest is a great city for you!

I was so impressed by the excellent music we heard in restaurants. Even tourist traps have really excellent live musicians who play with passion and love.

3. The Retro Museum will take you back to a time when Budapest was not so easy for westerners to visit.

And if you take your time in there, you will learn new things about how things used to be in Hungary. I was particularly interested in the exhibit about school. It was there that I learned about “Little Drummers”, which was the first stage of the communist youth movement for Hungarian children, back in the day.

2. There are 60 pairs of metal shoes by the Danube.

They were placed there to memorialize Hungarian Jews who were murdered by Nazis from 1944-45. An estimated 2600 to 3600 people were lined up by the Danube River and shot. Before they were shot, they were forced to remove their valuable shoes, so they would not be lost to the river when the dead bodies fell into it.

1. There are statues all over Budapest, commemorating famous Hungarians and other people.

Some of them sit on park benches. Some stand on bridges. Some are lurking in parks or on bridges, or even sitting by the Danube River. I should have paid closer attention to them during my week in Budapest, but maybe I’ll get a chance to go back.

Budapest is a fascinating city. Both times I’ve visited, I’ve had a great time. I hope we can go back again at a different time of year, perhaps during the “low” season… if they actually have one, that is. It’s definitely a vibrant place, full of fit, beautiful, warm-hearted people who are welcoming and kind. I’m so glad I had the chance to see it again, after sixteen years!

So ends my series on Budapest. Today, Bill and I have a lunch date at one of our favorite local restaurants, Villa im Tal. I’ll be writing that up later.

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Eastern Europe, Hungary

Back to Budapest- getting there is half the fun… part two

When Bill told me he wanted me to go to Budapest with him on his work trip, I was excited. But I also knew that it meant I wouldn’t be choosing our hotel. From past experiences on Bill’s work trips, I knew the place we would be staying would probably be as low frills as possible.

Bill found a hotel near the river that was going for 250 euros a night, which seems surprisingly expensive to me. He would have liked to have stayed in the InterContinental Budapest, which is a block away. It was completely booked, because Bill was asked to go to the conference at the last minute. So we were booked at the three star “superior” D8 Hotel, instead.

Bill told me to book a business class plane ticket. I know that may seem strange, but when Bill travels on business, he has to sit in the cheapest seats possible. Even if I had booked an economy class ticket, there is no guarantee we would be sitting with each other. We would have separate bookings, and his didn’t include a seat assignment. So, since I’m sensitive to a lot of things, I booked a round trip business class ticket on the same Lufthansa flight Bill booked.

On Saturday, September 6th, Bill took Noyzi and Charlie to the Hundepension. Then, on the 7th, Bill got me up at 5:00AM, and we took a taxi to the Frankfurt Airport for our 9:05 AM flight. Below are a few photos of the sunrise. We were up too early.

A bunch of Bill’s current and former coworkers were there, also going to the conference in Budapest. For some reason, my nose was unusually sensitive to perfume smells, and I seemed to keep running into clouds of strong scents, no matter where I turned. Because I had a business class ticket, I could have waited in the lounge. But I preferred to hang out with Bill and his colleagues, as we waited to board a bus that would take us on a 20 minute odyssey to our plane.

Seriously… the plane going to Budapest was way out in the hinterlands of the airport. Maybe it’s because it was a Sunday morning. The flight was fully booked, though, so I’m not sure what that was all about. Once we got to the plane, we had to wait another fifteen or twenty minutes on the crowded bus, because the maintenance crew had to check the plane to make sure it was safe to fly. A bird hit one of the propellers on the flight from Budapest to Frankfurt, and they were required to inspect it afterwards. I had a free seat next to me, because I had hoped Bill would have gotten on the bus, but he was on the one that came after mine.

A middle-aged lady sat in the aisle seat nearest mine, while her husband was in the opposing aisle seat. We had a trouble free flight, complete with business class food and some pictures of the sky… Naturally, I was sitting behind the one person in business class who felt the need to recline for the less than 90 minute flight. He was apparently asleep, and when it came time to land the flight attendant had to wake him up to get him to close his shade and sit upright. 🙄

We landed at about 11:55 AM or so… a little late, because our flight was delayed, thanks to the bird strike. We went to baggage claim and waited a long time for our bags in a very crowded area. Lots and lots of people were arriving in Budapest on September 7th. From what I could tell, a lot of them were taking bus tours or cruises. We finally got out of there sometime after noon, then got a taxi to the hotel. Unbeknownst to Bill, the cab driver handed him a 1000 forints bill that was old and no longer has any value. I later discovered that fact when I tried to spend it. More on that in a later post.

Bill checked in, and we were immediately assigned room 510. It was nice that we were allowed to claim it immediately, but the room itself was tiny (15 square meters). It reminded me a little of the old Microtels that were around in the late 1990s and early 00s. I discovered that Microtel is still around, but I’m not sure if it’s the same concept as it was when we stayed in one, back in 2002 or so.

The D8 hotel was built in 2010 or so, after the building that was there before it was demolished. It appears that the designers aimed to make it “comfortable” with as little space as possible. I wasn’t all that impressed, but at least it was air conditioned, which we needed in Budapest last week. It had a decent sized shower, too.

One nice thing about the D8 Hotel is its very convenient location. It’s a block from the river, and right next to the Chain Bridge. Last time we were in Budapest, we were in an area that wasn’t that close to the river. The D8 Hotel also offers a pretty decent breakfast and a bar, where one can order sandwiches, goulash, and drinks. I drank several draft beers there, myself.

After we dropped off our bags, we went looking for lunch, which we found at a Lebanese restaurant at the InterContinental Hotel called Arz. Lunch was pretty good, and I especially enjoyed the Soproni (local) beer and hummus.

After lunch, we walked back to the hotel and prepared for a longer walk and lots of photos of the Danube and surroundings. We ended up walking over four miles! Below you can see some scooters that are apparently all the rage in Budapest. I saw so many of these during our visit. They seemed like an incarnation of Segways, only people sat on them instead of standing.

You can also see the gorgeous sunset, as well as the sad exhibit of shoes by the Danube bank near the famous Parliament building. The shoes represent those left by Jewish people who were forced to remove their valuable footwear before they were shot by the riverside and fell into the water, to be swept away by the currents. Unfortunately, a lot of people have polluted the shoes with their trash, stuffing it into the shoes instead of putting it in a trash can.

As the sun was setting, we decided to find dinner. We stopped at a place that looked promising. It was a Hungarian restaurant called Tulipan Bistro. We decided to sit inside, which was okay, except I was in the path of the air conditioning. I liked the way the restaurant was decorated, with lots of kitschy stuff like old car radios, instruments, and Coke memorabilia. The food wasn’t that great, but there was nice local wine. Bill had beef goulash, and I had what turned out to be an overcooked schnitzel with mustard sauce and lots of “funions”… I couldn’t finish it.

After dinner, we walked back to the hotel, and got our first glimpse of Budapest when it’s all lit up at night. It really is a sight to see.

Once we got back to the hotel, it was time to retire for the night, which we promptly did. Stay tuned for the next installment, in which I describe my six mile power walk from Hell.

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Eastern Europe, Hungary

Back to Budapest– an introduction… part one

Featured photo is of the famous Parliament Building in Budapest, taken from the Buda part of the city.

As promised, it’s time for me to start writing my series on Budapest, Hungary. Bill and I first visited there for Labor Day weekend in 2009, the week before we had to leave Germany for Georgia. I remember really liking Budapest then, even though it was still showing lots of signs of its then more recent Eastern Bloc past.

I chose to visit Budapest in 2009, because the other cities I was considering were western European capitals that I thought would be easier to access from the United States. I didn’t know we’d be moving back to Europe. For all I knew, in 2009, we’d never have the chance to come over here again. So I chose to go to Budapest then, and it was fascinating. I’m actually really glad we stayed in a hotel that was deeper into the city, far from the Danube River and main shopping areas of Budapest. We never ventured to those areas in 2009. I remember that just getting to the river from our hotel was a bit of a hike, although there was a tram available.

As I sit here remembering our first visit and comparing it to our second one, I’m reminded of how individual experiences shape one’s perceptions of any given thing. Because of this trip, I formed a very different perspective of Budapest than I had only a week ago. I saw more of the city because I had more time to see it. We stayed in a different area, and I spent a lot of time just walking around, taking in the sights. During our first visit, we went to the spa and were a bit hampered by events going on in the city that took away our attention. This time, Bill went to work, and I walked miles around the city taking pictures. I saw a lot more and formed a new perspective. Of course, 16 years have also passed.

This visit was different because Bill was working, so I spent a lot of time alone, fending for myself. If he’d been with me, we might have done a lot more “touristy” things… eaten in more restaurants, engaged with more people, and maybe taken more beer breaks. I’m sure we would have hit one of the public spas, too, as our comparatively no-frills hotel didn’t have its own spa.

I was delighted that Bill asked me to join him on this trip, even though it meant we’d had to fly separately. When he travels for work, he has to get the cheapest plane tickets and stay in accommodations that are below the per diem rate. Budapest’s hotel rates were very high during our visit. I’m not sure if that’s “normal”, or if there was something going on.

What I did notice while we were there was that there were MANY American tourists, and most of them seemed to be there to catch a Danube cruise. I’m sure those were going on in 2009, but I don’t think there were as many back then. I saw so many Viking ships there, as well as at least a couple from Avalon Waterways. I also noticed that practically EVERYONE spoke perfect English. That made me a little sad, because one thing that makes a place unique is its language. But English was everywhere in Budapest. It made me want to explore beyond the capital and see parts of Hungary where Americans fear to tread. Maybe someday, we’ll have that opportunity.

I don’t know how long it will take me to write about our six nights in Budapest. I’ll do my best not to be too boring. But even though I was a bit chagrined that Budapest was a lot busier and more expensive than I remembered from 2009, I did have a good time there, and I learned new things. So I hope some of you might follow along and allow me to share the wealth.

I didn’t take nearly as many photos in 2009, but I am noticing as I look at the ones I do have, there was a lot less back then than there is now… However, one thing that hasn’t changed is that the airport is pretty chaotic and in need of renovation. More on that in the next installment!

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