Eastern Europe, Hungary

Ten things I learned in Budapest, Hungary…

Here it is, the much anticipated “ten things I learned”, post… /sarcasm. Seriously, though, when I take trips, I like to take a few minutes to reflect on the new things I learned thanks to travel. And I did learn some new things in Hungary, this time. So here’s my latest list of ten things I learned, Budapest, Hungary edition!

10. The word “tilos” means “silence” in Lithuanian. In Hungarian, it means “forbidden”.

Interesting, huh? I noticed that word on signs in churches in Lithuania, when we went there in June, so I looked it up. Then I saw it in Hungary, but I didn’t go into any churches while we were there. So that word is used in two different countries and languages to direct people in how to behave.

9. Old Forints are worthless in Hungary.

When Bill and I took a taxi into Budapest, a cab driver gave Bill change for the ride. In the change, he included an old 1000 Forints note, which Bill gave to me. Later, I tried to spend it, and learned that Hungary changed its currency and the old notes are now worthless. We probably could have taken it to a post office, but we’re going to send it to Bill’s grandson, instead. The bigger note below is now worth nothing.

8. English is EVERYWHERE in Budapest.

I know I shouldn’t have been, but I was surprised by how very widespread English is in Hungary. Lots of signs were in English, and all menus were translated. A lot of people didn’t even speak with a heavy accent. In a way, I was kind of disheartened by how much English is used there. But it did make things easier for us tourists…

7. Speaking of tourists, they were also everywhere in Budapest!

On Friday night, I was especially aware of how many tourists were in Budapest. It felt like waves of visitors. I wonder what it’s like for the natives, having to deal with so many throngs of tourists congesting the city. Yes, they spend money, but they also make it hard to even just walk around downtown. One day, I counted FIVE Viking River Cruise ships. There were other cruise companies there, too.

6. You can see a lot of things in Budapest, just by walking around the city.

I only made it to one museum, and yet I saw plenty of stuff for free, just taking daily walks around the main drags. And there was a whole lot of stuff I didn’t see. I could go back there, spend a week, and still not see everything. I’d like to go back and spend more time on Margaret Island.

5. Someone built a Michael Jackson shrine in Budapest, and it’s “unmolested”…

4. If you love music, Budapest is a great city for you!

I was so impressed by the excellent music we heard in restaurants. Even tourist traps have really excellent live musicians who play with passion and love.

3. The Retro Museum will take you back to a time when Budapest was not so easy for westerners to visit.

And if you take your time in there, you will learn new things about how things used to be in Hungary. I was particularly interested in the exhibit about school. It was there that I learned about “Little Drummers”, which was the first stage of the communist youth movement for Hungarian children, back in the day.

2. There are 60 pairs of metal shoes by the Danube.

They were placed there to memorialize Hungarian Jews who were murdered by Nazis from 1944-45. An estimated 2600 to 3600 people were lined up by the Danube River and shot. Before they were shot, they were forced to remove their valuable shoes, so they would not be lost to the river when the dead bodies fell into it.

1. There are statues all over Budapest, commemorating famous Hungarians and other people.

Some of them sit on park benches. Some stand on bridges. Some are lurking in parks or on bridges, or even sitting by the Danube River. I should have paid closer attention to them during my week in Budapest, but maybe I’ll get a chance to go back.

Budapest is a fascinating city. Both times I’ve visited, I’ve had a great time. I hope we can go back again at a different time of year, perhaps during the “low” season… if they actually have one, that is. It’s definitely a vibrant place, full of fit, beautiful, warm-hearted people who are welcoming and kind. I’m so glad I had the chance to see it again, after sixteen years!

So ends my series on Budapest. Today, Bill and I have a lunch date at one of our favorite local restaurants, Villa im Tal. I’ll be writing that up later.

Standard
Eastern Europe, Hungary

Back to Budapest– an introduction… part one

Featured photo is of the famous Parliament Building in Budapest, taken from the Buda part of the city.

As promised, it’s time for me to start writing my series on Budapest, Hungary. Bill and I first visited there for Labor Day weekend in 2009, the week before we had to leave Germany for Georgia. I remember really liking Budapest then, even though it was still showing lots of signs of its then more recent Eastern Bloc past.

I chose to visit Budapest in 2009, because the other cities I was considering were western European capitals that I thought would be easier to access from the United States. I didn’t know we’d be moving back to Europe. For all I knew, in 2009, we’d never have the chance to come over here again. So I chose to go to Budapest then, and it was fascinating. I’m actually really glad we stayed in a hotel that was deeper into the city, far from the Danube River and main shopping areas of Budapest. We never ventured to those areas in 2009. I remember that just getting to the river from our hotel was a bit of a hike, although there was a tram available.

As I sit here remembering our first visit and comparing it to our second one, I’m reminded of how individual experiences shape one’s perceptions of any given thing. Because of this trip, I formed a very different perspective of Budapest than I had only a week ago. I saw more of the city because I had more time to see it. We stayed in a different area, and I spent a lot of time just walking around, taking in the sights. During our first visit, we went to the spa and were a bit hampered by events going on in the city that took away our attention. This time, Bill went to work, and I walked miles around the city taking pictures. I saw a lot more and formed a new perspective. Of course, 16 years have also passed.

This visit was different because Bill was working, so I spent a lot of time alone, fending for myself. If he’d been with me, we might have done a lot more “touristy” things… eaten in more restaurants, engaged with more people, and maybe taken more beer breaks. I’m sure we would have hit one of the public spas, too, as our comparatively no-frills hotel didn’t have its own spa.

I was delighted that Bill asked me to join him on this trip, even though it meant we’d had to fly separately. When he travels for work, he has to get the cheapest plane tickets and stay in accommodations that are below the per diem rate. Budapest’s hotel rates were very high during our visit. I’m not sure if that’s “normal”, or if there was something going on.

What I did notice while we were there was that there were MANY American tourists, and most of them seemed to be there to catch a Danube cruise. I’m sure those were going on in 2009, but I don’t think there were as many back then. I saw so many Viking ships there, as well as at least a couple from Avalon Waterways. I also noticed that practically EVERYONE spoke perfect English. That made me a little sad, because one thing that makes a place unique is its language. But English was everywhere in Budapest. It made me want to explore beyond the capital and see parts of Hungary where Americans fear to tread. Maybe someday, we’ll have that opportunity.

I don’t know how long it will take me to write about our six nights in Budapest. I’ll do my best not to be too boring. But even though I was a bit chagrined that Budapest was a lot busier and more expensive than I remembered from 2009, I did have a good time there, and I learned new things. So I hope some of you might follow along and allow me to share the wealth.

I didn’t take nearly as many photos in 2009, but I am noticing as I look at the ones I do have, there was a lot less back then than there is now… However, one thing that hasn’t changed is that the airport is pretty chaotic and in need of renovation. More on that in the next installment!

Standard
Champagne Bucket trips, Eastern Europe

Goodbye, Cesky Krumlov! Hello Brno… part seven of our 2023 Czech tour!

Thursday morning, Bill and I enjoyed our second and last breakfast at Monastery Garden. I decided to have French Toast, while Bill went with a three egg omelette. We had more orange juice and coffee, although on the second morning, Bill skipped the pepper in his juice. Once again, the breakfast was impeccably presented and delicious, and at least in my photos, it looked huge. One friend said it looked like my French Toast would have fed her whole family, although it was just three small pieces. I guess sometimes objects are smaller than they appear in pictures.

We decided to load most of our stuff in the car before breakfast so we could just grab my one big bag, settle up, and be on our way. While we were eating breakfast, we ran into a German couple from Ulm and a British couple who laughed when I quipped that Bill and I sounded like a herd of elephants coming down the stairs.

All told, two nights with breakfast and a bottle of wine cost us about $700 or so. We could have booked a less expensive room, but I really enjoyed the suite we had. Especially since our hotel in Brno promised to be less swanky. After Bill paid, we said goodbye and headed for the car… but then it turned out that Bill needed to break one of the Czech bills he had. So he went back to the lodging, where he ran into his coworker’s family again, having breakfast. They seemed very chipper. I guess they spent one more day in town.

While I was waiting for Bill to return to the car, I watched a young woman who was clearly having trouble exiting the parking lot. The arm wouldn’t raise for her. Every time she unsuccessfully attempted to leave, I watched her heave her chest and dramatically flail her arms. It was the universal sign of frustration. I had a few minutes, so I took some video of the Vltava River while I waited.

Such a peaceful sound…

Soon, we were heading east toward Brno. It was supposed to take about three hours or so, but we had a lunch stop, traffic, and we temporarily got stuck at the gas station from hell. The drive leaving Cesky Krumlov was very pretty and I was enjoying looking at a more side of Czechia. But then Bill started complaining about needing to go to the bathroom. I did notice that there weren’t a lot of official rest stops in Czechia, although we did see some portalets on the side of the road. Bill even used one.

As the minutes passed, Bill became more anxious for a stop somewhere. We both noticed a sign that read “Hamburgery” and featured a photo of a tasty looking sandwich. It was getting close to lunchtime as we entered the town of Obrataň, which is where the advertised hamburger restaurant is located. Bill soon located Bistro Viadukt, which has its own parking behind the unassuming building where it’s located. Little did we know that this place is a local gem and people come from all around to eat there. We just needed a toilet for Bill.

We went into the sparsely decorated eatery and Bill took care of business. The proprietors didn’t speak English at all, but they did have menus in several languages, including German and English. We successfully ordered two cheeseburgers, a beer for me, and a soft drink for Bill. And then we proceeded to enjoy two delicious burgers that were a bit too rare for our usual liking, but tasted great. I think Bill was a bit worried about how rare the meat was, but there were several locals in there who were really enjoying themselves. And as it turned out, neither of us got sick.

As we were eating, a young couple came in with an adorable Jack Russell terrier and a baby. I couldn’t help but notice the woman was more interested in the dog, while the man tended to the baby. I kind of wondered what their story was. Several other people came in. They were obvious regulars and bantered with the kind lady behind the cash register.

They had a few items on the menu other than burgers that looked interesting. Bill liked the look of the soup they were serving, but he didn’t know how to order it. The chef had come out and, for simplicity’s sake, we both got the same thing. I must admit, the burger was very impressive– and it was obvious the patties were hand formed, rather than molded. It was a very successful stop. I liked the steak fries, too. They were delicious and there weren’t too many of them to finish.

The rest of our drive was pretty routine until we got to the gas station from hell. Bill fueled up and had a brief argument with the attendant, who wanted him to buy the more premium gas. After fueling up the car, Bill moved to the other side of the gas station for a potty break. While we were relieving ourselves, some trucker decided to try to park his rig in the area designated for cars. I watched Bill’s face get more sour and irritated as he nervously watched the trucker trying to maneuver scarily close to our Volvo. Fortunately, there wasn’t an accident, and we were able to move out of his way… only to get stuck in a veritable wall of trucks that went on for miles.

Soon enough, we got away from the truckers from hell and started seeing the familiar cookie cutter pastel colored apartment buildings of Brno. It’s still a pretty eastern European city, more so than Prague is. Welcome to the East!

We found our hotel, JeštěBrno, which was very highly rated on TripAdvisor, but located outside of the downtown area. In some ways, this location was a good thing, as we had free parking and proximity to a grocery store, restaurants, a vinotek, and even an ophthalmologist’s office. I had already checked us in online, so the receptionist had our keys ready for us, although at this hotel, you don’t even really need keys. The doors are all operated by a code, which if you have memorized it, makes the use of key cards mostly unnecessary. You just punch in the code with a pound sign, a female voice says, “unlocked”, and you’re good to go.

I booked us a “big as Brno” room, which had a little terrace, a fridge, a large TV, and a sofa, as well as a handy fridge. We were also supposed to get spa access at the nearby health club, but that proved to be too cumbersome for us to access. I understand that if you don’t pay for spa access, you can get it by paying a rate. But the pool and spa were only available at certain times of day which weren’t convenient for us. So we didn’t get to try the spa.

Other than that, the room was pretty nice. It had most everything we’d need, except for maybe a microwave. The hotel had an honesty bar, included buffet breakfast, and some services such as limited room service. We booked three nights, which was about right. Maybe it would have been nice to stay one extra night in Brno, but we actually managed to do a lot during our time there. More on that in the next post.

Below are some photos of our room…

Standard
Uncategorized

Sweet false hopes… but BrewDog saved the afternoon!

A few days ago, The New York Times ran an article about Khachapuri, a popular dish made of fresh bread, cheese, and egg, in Transcaucasian countries, to include Georgia and Armenia. I lived in Armenia for two years as a Peace Corps Volunteer, and while I can’t say I ate a lot of Khachapuri when I lived there, I’ve come to appreciate the milder versions offered outside of the country. When I lived in Armenia, the dish was made with stinky cheese, which I could not abide. When it’s made with milder cheese, it’s more delicious to me.

Anyway, when I saw the article in The New York Times, I was reminded of the times Bill and I have enjoyed Georgian food. We went to Georgian restaurants in Stuttgart and Frankfurt, as well as several in Wroclaw, Poland. The Frankfurt restaurant was a bit of a disappointment, but the ones in Stuttgart and Poland were awesome. I did a Google search and learned that much to my shock, Wiesbaden has an Armenian restaurant unsurprisingly called Ararat. I looked them up, and it appeared that they were open today. So Bill and I ventured out there to see if it was a good place to eat.

The restaurant is located in an area of Wiesbaden that is known for its Eastern European population. That’s where one can visit the Mix Markt for eastern goodies. It’s in a residential area, and probably gets lots of locals as visitors. It also looks like they host a lot of parties and such, with live music.

We approached, and the door was open. There was a young guy on the phone and a young woman. The proprietor came out and said they were closed on Sundays, even though Google and their sign said they were supposed to be open every day.

I couldn’t resist, and asked in Armenian if they were from Armenia (Hayastan), since the place also advertises Russian food. Their faces lit up as they answered yes, in Armenian, and asked if I was Armenian, too. I actually answered “no” in German, then explained in Armenian that I know some Armenian. Then I said in English “I used to live there.” What can I say? It’s been 25 years since I last had to speak Armenian on a daily basis. Anyway, I could hear them commenting and chuckling as we walked away. We’ll have to call and find out when they have regular hours. I’d love to try their horovats… or shashlik, if they prefer.

We went back to Wiesbaden and parked at the Kurhaus, then walked into town. It didn’t look like anything exciting was happening, so we headed to BrewDog, where we ate a couple of months ago. I knew they’d be open, because they don’t take a pause. It was almost 2:00pm.

We drank a couple of beers and each tried something different from the last time we visited. I had a “Cluck Norris” sandwich, which was fried chicken breast with avocado, red onion, cajun mayo, and coriander with a side of fries. Bill had a roasted chicken sourdough bowl, which was basically a big salad with pieces of chicken and a piece of toasted sourdough bread. His dish also included chilli, chia seeds, and avocado.

We enjoyed the music, and I took a few new selfies, because I was wearing makeup and the lighting was good. Plus, since it wasn’t super hot outside, I wore something besides a t-shirt and shorts. While we were sitting there, a waifish blonde girl came in and dropped off a keychain with a note. She was quick as a flash, and we watched her go in and out in a matter of a minute or so, before she went across the street and did the same at a cafe. This isn’t the first time this has happened to us. I’m not sure where she was from, but I would guess it’s an eastern nation, and this is their way of collecting money. They try to sell little trinkets to sympathetic people who are trying to eat. I don’t think she had any luck.

Below are a few photos. I didn’t manage to get any of Ararat, although I’m sure we’ll try to visit again when they’re open– after we’ve called to verify. The owner had a very kind face and seemed super friendly. But I don’t mind that we went to BrewDog, either. That’s a fun place!

I really do hope we can try Ararat. I love finding new restaurants, especially when they offer different food than what is available everywhere! And I have missed Armenia… and Armenian people!

Standard