Old Pulteney whisky in Wick and the first “gala”.

On Tuesday, August 6th 2019, we arrived in Wick, Scotland for our very first port of call. Wick does not appear to be the most exciting place to the uninitiated. I noticed the waters around the port were brown and kind of sludgy looking. But we stopped there, not because it’s a beautiful town, but because the Old Pulteney distillery is there.

This cruise was called Westering Home and Whisky Galore. It focused mostly on whisky distilleries, but there were alternatives for those who didn’t want to try whisky. I had not heard of Old Pulteney before we visited the distillery. Truth be told, Bill is more of a whisky fan than I am. I’d rather drink beer and wine. And thanks to our Spirit of Scotland cruise in 2016, I know very well how whisky is made. Still, it’s interesting to visit the distilleries because each one seems to have slightly different methods to their madness.

Our visit to Old Pulteney’s distillery required a brief ride on the tender and a short walk. I was really happy to see that this year Hebridean Princess has new life jackets. On previous cruises, we were forced to wear these huge, uncomfortable monstrosities that were kind of suffocating. This year, they had devices that were much smaller and easier to wear. Basically, they were like little inflatable stoles rather than jackets. The only thing I didn’t like about them was the crotch strap, which was kind of awkward. However, it was much easier to get in and out of them and they’re way more comfortable.

The area where the distillery is in Wick appears to be solidly working class. I didn’t see a lot of industry there, save for a casino and bar and the distillery. There’s also a museum, which Bill visited on his own while I took a nap. Here are a few photos from the distillery tour. It didn’t amount to much, since August is part of the “silent season” for Old Pulteney. This is the time of year when the distillery takes a six week break for maintenance and staff vacations. This year, Old Pultaney’s silent season ends on August 19th.

Water is filtered before it turns into whisky.
We got to visit the warehouse, which smelled heavily of the “Angel’s Share”.

In every distillery tour I’ve ever been on, we’ve heard about the “Angel’s Share”, which is the 2% of alcohol that evaporates per year. Near every distillery, a black fungus grows on trees and buildings. It’s due to the evaporating alcohol. Old Pulteney is no exception. Looking around the distillery, I could see the blackness from the whisky production. I have to admit, though, the whisky is good… and they were generous with their pours. A lot of the ladies on the cruise particularly enjoyed Stroma, a sweet whisky based liqueur made by Old Pulteney. One passenger liked it so much that one of the guides went back to the distillery to purchase a couple of bottles for the bar. They were quickly consumed before the cruise ended!

On every tour, we also heard about how the distilleries in Scotland acquire casks from America and Spain to age their spirits.

After the tour ended, Bill and I walked back to the ship. I took a moment to take a few photos of the area. Again… Wick isn’t necessarily a city I’d visit on my own, but I’m glad we got to visit the distillery. I missed the museum, but Bill said it was very interesting, as Wick played a very important role in Britain’s defense during World War II. In 1940, it came under fire after the defeat of the Netherlands and Denmark and the occupation of Norway by German forces. Supposedly, 222 high intensity explosives were dropped on Caithness during that period. On July 1, 1940, the most serious bombing occurred during daylight hours. Children were outside playing. Fifteen people were killed; eight were children. Bill said that while he was in the museum, there was a lady there who was actually present when the bomb fell.

I kind of wish I’d made the effort to visit Wick’s museum, but after lunch, I was really needing a nap. I also didn’t feel like riding the tender again. I probably needed to rest up for the first “gala”, in which the captain welcomes everyone. While guests are encouraged to “come as they are” to dinner on the first night of each Hebridean cruise, the second night is for dressing up in your glad rags. On previous cruises, Bill has worn his dress blues. This time, he wore the beautiful kilt he had custom made in Glasgow in 2017. Bill always looks prettier on the cruises than I do…

Bill and his kilt.
He has an Irish surname, so he had it made in the County Donegal tartan.
The menu for the first gala.

Although guests are encouraged to dress up for the gala, and most do just that, officially it’s just the crew that absolutely must dress up. I’ve seen some guests dress as if they’re going to church, though most people choose formal wear. One man wore jeans and made a hasty retreat to change into a suit when he saw all of the ladies in their finery. I myself chose my trusty black dress, crystal statement necklace and earrings, and a bright red cashmere and wool wrap.

I think the kilt came off very well, although Bill needs a few more lessons on sitting properly while wearing a skirt. I have to admit to missing seeing him in his dress blues, although I think the kilt was more comfortable for him. Maybe it’s time to get a pair of matching trousers.

Here are some photos of the food from the first gala… which did not involve any dancing, just lots of food and after dinner cocktails.

Scallops and pancetta…
A lovely salad…
Lobster tail for me…
Beef tenderloin for Bill.
And a lemon tart for me.
Cheese course for Bill.

I mentioned before that Hebridean Island Cruises is an all inclusive experience, which means that virtually everything is included… including all the booze you want, excursions, Internet access, and entry fees. You don’t even have to present a credit card when you board, nor do they make you an ID card. Instead, you have a brass tag that you take with you when you’re off the ship. Slip it on the lanyard you’ll receive when you board. It’s refreshingly low tech.

Next post.

Hebridean Island Cruises, Northern Ireland, Scotland

Scotland and Northern Ireland 2017, Part fourteen…

Monday morning, I awoke with a full-fledged cold. I was coughing, hacking, and had woken up several times during the night to blow my nose and drink some water. I was legitimately sick (and still am, though I’m getting better). We had plans to visit a distillery on the beautiful island of Islay. Bill and I visited Islay on our last Hebridean cruise and had the chance to visit a couple of whisky distilleries, Laphroaig and Kilchoman. This time, we were supposed to visit Bowmore, but that was cancelled before we boarded the ship. Then it got switched to Lagavulin, but since we didn’t do our itinerary as planned, that tour, too, was cancelled.

Islay happens to be rich with whisky distilleries, so the folks at Hebridean fixed us up with a tour at Bruichladdich, an old distillery that makes both whisky and gin. Before we got on Islay’s schoolbus for a trip out to Port Charlotte, we had time to walk around. Bill and I went to a tiny grocery store and bought some cough medicine and candy for me. I’ve been sipping Covonia Chesty Cold formula ever since Monday. I don’t know if it works like NyQuil, but it’s got booze in it and tastes like Jaegermeister.

With that taken care of, we were ready for our trip to the distillery. Thanks to our whisky tour last year, Bill and I are very well versed as to how scotch is made. I was pretty happy our guide did not take us through the process, but rather told us the distillery’s history and showed us the equipment. The tour was short, sweet, and ended with some rather generous whisky tastings. Bill and I left with a bottle of scotch, a bottle of gin, a wool throw for me, a music CD by Islay native Angela Paterson, who performed on our last cruise, and some soap.

We got back on the ship in the early afternoon, just in time for lunch, a ham buffet. The captain would be taking us closer to Oban during the day.

A beautiful morning in Port Ellen.

I got a kick out of the sign… it’s perfect if you like your whisky.

A shot of Hebridean Princess in port.

Distillery time!

And the distillery shop, where I parted with some cash.

We were invited to try the barley. I did, knowing that it wouldn’t make me sick like the wort did last time we did a distillery tour.

Mash!

Those vats were full of some very alcoholic brew…

The gin still, which the distillery picked up when another distillery was closing.

The spirit safe.

We visited the warehouse. Lots of scotches in different barrels, everything from bourbon to sherry casks.

Bill enjoys a taste. They were quite willing to let people try different whiskys. We were told if there was one we wanted to try under 200 GBP, they would oblige. I think the distillery was rewarded, because I witnessed one passenger spending over 500 GBP on whisky.

Down the hatch!

Moody skies for the drive back to Port Ellen.

The beautiful ham.

Lots of salads and pasta.

And more seafood… including oysters, shrimp, smoked salmon and trout, and the like…

I had a crab salad as a starter.

Bill had a sundae for dessert.

I had warm rice pudding with raspberry jam. It was very satisfying… took me back to my childhood days in England.

After lunch, I was feeling a little under the weather, so I went back to our stateroom, packed my bags, and took a nap. Two hours later, Bill woke me up to tell me to get ready for dinner. I was tempted to go back to sleep. Then he showed me a picture of dolphins he managed to get. It’s not the best picture, but it’s still cool.

Too bad I was sleeping when this happened.

Monday night was the evening of our second gala. I broke out my blue sequined gown, which rained shiny sparkles all over the place. In retrospect, it was a little fancier than I usually go for. The one thing the dress had going for it was that it was floor length, so I didn’t have to wear control top panty hose. I wore knee highs instead, and pinned the top of the slit so my cheating wouldn’t show. I felt a little silly at first in my sparkly gown, but eventually relaxed. It’s not like I haven’t seen worse at any Army ball (sorry, it’s the truth). And besides, Bill was there in his blues.

David Indge mingles with guests at the Captain’s Farewell Gala.

I was absolutely enchanted by the sunset in Castle Bay, so I had to go take pictures while Bill explained to another passenger that the Pentagon really was hit by a jet airliner on September 11, 2001. I always defer to Bill when it comes to 9/11 because he was actually in the Pentagon that day.

David addresses everyone and introduces our captain, Trevor Bailey.

More gorgeous sunset pics. I could look at these all day.

Bill is smiling because he doesn’t have to wear that jacket anymore!

Prepped for haggis. They bring out the whisky beforehand.

Haggis! This ceremony is a treat! I got a good view this time, but my camera died and I had to switch to an iPhone.

I happened to be sitting under this bell, so I got to ring it a couple of times. I think I almost went deaf the second time.

Haggis! I couldn’t really taste it due to my sickness. I have had it enough times to know it wasn’t a bad thing not to taste it, although haggis is not as horrible as it sounds.

Because I didn’t like the liver starter, our kind waiter, Mariusz, brought me smoked salmon.

Bill bravely tried the liver. I don’t think it was a hit; we had some in Germany that actually tasted like chocolate of all things.

A nice palate cleansing sorbet.

I had turbot filet, which is a favorite.

Bill had venison, which he loves…

Then we had creme brulee and a biscotti for dessert.

Our one selfie together. Maybe I should have gotten someone to take our picture, but I don’t photograph very well, especially when I’m sick.

One more shot of my dashing Bill in his blues…

And Toby was kind enough to make me a Brandy Alexander. It was fabulous.

Goodbye, folks…

The castle in Castle Bay.

A few more spectacular pictures!

Hebridean Island Cruises

Scotland and Northern Ireland 2017, Part nine…

After our exciting trip to The Giant’s Causeway, we had to rush back to the ship. We all needed to get dressed up in our “glad rags” for the first of two “galas”. Now, when I refer to “galas” on Hebridean Princess, I don’t mean there was a band and dancing or anything. Basically, everyone gets decked out in formal wear or at least dresses up a bit and there’s special food and such. It’s a chance for everyone to mingle and get to know each other and hear from the purser and captain. The first gala is intended to allow the staff to welcome everyone properly.

On all four of our Hebridean journeys, Bill has worn his Army Service Uniform, also popularly known as “dress blues”. Bill still manages to look good in the uniform, despite having retired three years ago. However, there is some doubt as to whether or not he should be wearing the dress blues on a ship. I came across an interesting thread on Cruise Critic about U.S. military retirees wearing uniforms outside of military events. Although I doubt anyone would bust Bill for wearing his blues on a tiny British cruise ship, I think we may have decided that this was the last cruise during which he would be wearing his blues, especially since he will soon have a custom made kilt of his very own.

I don’t generally like wearing formal dresses because I don’t enjoy shopping for clothes. I’m short and fat and it’s hard to find dresses that are really flattering, yet comfortable. I bought a couple of dresses for this cruise that were okay, I guess, but really didn’t make me feel pretty. Still, I gamely wore a purple velvet get up for the first gala. Bill squeezed into his blues and we went up to the cocktail party.

I think I will miss seeing Bill in his blues, especially on Hebridean Princess. The uniform is a conversation piece and we have ended up meeting some fascinating people on the Princess who have military backgrounds themselves. In attendance on our cruise was a man in his 90s named Ian. Ian got a look at Bill in his dress blues and immediately chatted him up. It turned out that Ian had joined the British Army in 1937, when he was a very young man. He served in the British Army for thirty-five years, eventually ending up in Baden-Baden, a German city not far from where Bill and I currently live.

Ian met and married a German woman and was recruited by the Canadian Army, which allowed him to stay in Germany with his wife. He served the Canadian Army for another fifteen years. Then, he retired in 1987. His wife preceded him in death and Ian has apparently become a return guest on Hebridean Princess. I heard a staff member talking about what a lovely man he is. And he repeatedly apologized to me for “stealing” Bill away to talk about the military. Frankly, it was an honor for Bill to get to talk to another soldier with such an amazing history.

On our first Hebridean cruise, we met a man who was 89 years old and had served in World War II as a young man. He was still amazingly lucid and had all kinds of stories about what it was like to serve in those days. Bill and I both enjoyed meeting the man.

Anyway, after the cocktail party, we went to dinner. Below are some pictures from that night.

Bill in his blues. He said he was a little afraid to sit down because the jacket is a bit tight. He bought a new one last year, but it needs to be tailored. I think he still looks good.