Iceland, Nordic

Ten things I learned in Iceland!

Here it is, my usual top ten list of things I learned on our most recent trip. This time it’s Iceland, a country we’ve been wanting to visit together for a long time. I probably learned more than ten things on this trip, come to think of it. So here goes…

10. Be sure to bring waterproof clothing with you to Iceland!

Iceland is one of those places where you just never know what kind of weather you’re going to get. One thing is a sure bet, though, and that is that it’s likely to rain. We now know from personal experience that an umbrella is not likely to be that helpful, especially outside of the city. So, if you’re planning a trip to Iceland, you may want to invest in waterproof clothes. A raincoat is essential, and you’ll probably want waterproof pants, too. But if you need waterproof clothes, don’t worry. Icewear is a handy store with many outlets in Iceland. They can hook you up with clothes and footwear! Dress in layers!

9. Icelandic horses are just that… HORSES.

I grew up around horses and ponies in Virginia. Where I come from, a person would take one look at an Icelandic horse and think they were seeing a pony. Not so… Icelanders consider Icelandic equines to be HORSES, even though they are shorter and smaller than what a lot of us would consider horses.

8. Any Icelandic horse who leaves Iceland is not allowed to return.

Iceland is very strict about the import of animals. It’s possible to bring pets to Iceland, but there are exacting procedures and they have to be quarantined for at least three weeks. And when it comes to Icelandic horses, which are the only horses on the island, they can never return to Iceland if they ever leave.

7. There are evergreens in Iceland, but they were imported from Alaska!

Our guide, Ivar, pointed out evergreen forests during our tour and he said that the trees, along with Alaskan lupine, were imported to Iceland from the U.S. state of Alaska. Ivar said that prior to the import, most of the trees in Iceland were birches.

6. The only animal native to Iceland is the Arctic fox.

Other animals have been introduced, of course. At one point, Norway sent reindeer to Iceland. Most of them died, but enough survived that they exist on the island. Sometimes polar bears from Greenland show up near the coasts, but Ivar told us that the authorities usually shoot them because Greenland doesn’t usually want them back. It makes me kind of sad to think of polar bears being killed in such a way, but I’ve also read that many of them are starving, anyway, due to a lack of fish and other prey caused by global warming.

5. All physically capable schoolchildren in Iceland must learn how to swim.

Ivar told us that his wife works at a school teaching kids how to swim. It’s required of Icelandic children because there’s so much water in and around the island. I was reminded of how I had to prove I could swim before I could graduate Longwood College (now Longwood University). My college has since done away with that requirement, but I doubt Iceland ever will.

4. Tourism is a mixed bag in Iceland.

There are still parts of Iceland that are very remote and rugged. It wasn’t until very recently that Iceland became a hot tourist destination. Consequently, the locals are dealing with some mixed consequences of the trend. On one hand, places that used to be special and pristine are now teeming with tourists. On the other hand, tourism has brought in more workers from other places, increasing population. Tourism also brings in new facilities, such as public restrooms, and better restaurants, as well as lots of money!

3. Iceland is extremely welcoming to LGBTQI people. It’s also got a long history of promoting women’s rights.

There’s even a rainbow colored street in Reykjavik!

2. Icelandic is the language from which other Nordic languages, except Finnish, sprang.

Ivar told us that Danish, Swedish, and Norwegian used to be more like Icelandic, but due to business dealings with Germany, they changed some of their words to be more like German. I did notice when we were in Norway and Sweden last year that some of their words were like German words.

1. If you want to tour Iceland properly, you should definitely consider hiring a guide!

This was the first trip Bill and I have ever taken for which we’ve done a “bespoke” tour. I’m not sure why I realized hiring a guide would be a good idea, especially since I neglected to buy waterproof pants. However, it was absolutely the RIGHT decision for us. We saw parts of Iceland there’s no way we ever could have seen on our own. Moreover, we witnessed what can happen to people who try to drive in Iceland and aren’t wary of the pitfalls. Remember that picture of the half submerged rental car?

Yes, it was expensive for us to book Iceland Luxury Tours, but they did a fantastic job planning our vacation and looking after us. We would not hesitate to recommend them! But even if you don’t want to book luxury, I would definitely shop around for a qualified guide, preferably one who has access to a four wheel drive vehicle! The right vehicle with adequate insurance is an absolute MUST if you want to go to the rugged highlands.

If you decide to visit Iceland, be sure to save up for it. It’s an expensive place to visit. But don’t let that put you off, because as brutal as Iceland’s weather can be, the people are so warm hearted and kind. And the beauty of the country is unparalleled. It really is an incredible place with views you won’t get in many other places on Earth.

We are so glad we finally made it to Iceland. I do hope we can visit again, maybe at a different time of year. I can’t promise the weather will be better, but I’ll bet the views will be different!

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Champagne Bucket trips, Iceland

Our first Icelandic adventure: The Sky Lagoon (part eleven)

I’m going to go ahead and write this post now, even though I’m kind of tired of writing today. I think it will be a short post, and when it’s done, I’ll have one or two left to do before the blow by blow part of the Iceland series is finished. I don’t know why I’m in a hurry to finish. It’s not like I always have so much material to put out there. I think it’s mainly because I don’t want to forget anything.

So… Thursday, September 5, was technically our last activity day with Iceland Luxury Tours. They did book our return transfer to the airport on Saturday, the 7th, but that didn’t involve anything other than a very nice car ride.

When we booked our trip, we told the folks at Iceland Luxury Tours that we like spa activities. Many people, when they come to Iceland, make a point of visiting The Blue Lagoon, which is a famous geothermal lagoon near Grindavik. It’s about 45 minutes or so from Reykjavik, and tends to be rather crowded.

Instead of going to the world famous Blue Lagoon, Iceland Luxury Tours recommended that we visit the newer and closer Sky Lagoon near Reykjavik. Like the more famous lagoon, the Sky Lagoon is warm pool of “healing waters”, heated by geothermal energy. It’s right next to the sea and styled like an infinity pool, so you can look at the water while you soak in soothing hot water. We were told this newer lagoon would probably be less crowded, and it would require less travel time. We were fine with that explanation, so we agreed to try the Sky Lagoon.

Our appointment was at 11:00 AM, and our driver arrived promptly at 10:30 AM to pick us up. He was a very tall, handsome, Nordic looking man who was friendly and professional. The drive didn’t take long at all, and soon we were standing in line behind other people who had pre-booked, as well as those who had just shown up. It was a little confusing, at first, because there didn’t seem to be a separation between those who had pre-booked and those who hadn’t. Fortunately, the line moved quickly.

I did see one group who, I think, ended up disappointed. Children under 12 are not allowed in the Sky Lagoon. Those between 12 and 14 must be accompanied by an adult who is at least 18 years old. They brought several youngsters with them who looked younger than 12. I didn’t see them in the lagoon later, so they were probably refused entry.

There are two tiers of service at the Sky Lagoon. There’s the cheaper Saman, in which participants use a communal locker room. Then there’s Ser, which allows patrons their own private changing area, locker room, and shower. Once you finish getting into your bathing suit, you put all your things in a locker so the changing room can be used by others. Towels are included, and there’s no point in bringing a robe or shower shoes, since shoes aren’t allowed in the locker area (except by employees).

A lot of people brought their cell phones into the lagoon. I thought about bringing mine, but decided not to. After all, I was there to relax, not worry about my phone falling into water (even though I’m about to upgrade it). If you want to see what the lagoon looks like, you can easily Google it. Lots of people recorded their visit when we were there and at other times. Below is an ad for the place…

I might still like to see the Blue Lagoon, if only because the water is blue.

When you go into the lagoon, you are given two wrist bands. One allows you into a “hut” where you undergo the treatments that come with your visit. The other allows you to charge purchases at the bar. They sell a broad array of drinks there, but there are also things like sunglasses and waterproof cases for phones.

The water in the Sky Lagoon was very pleasant, and I didn’t find it to be overly crowded at all. It was fun to watch the people who were there. I saw a couple of young women who appeared to be trying to model, although they, or the man who was with them, were taking photos with cell phones. Both wore bikinis and were doing all sorts of poses that were not that original. I actually got a little concerned for one of them, as she was a bit underweight, and the poses were looking a little sexual… as if maybe they were less for modeling and more for trafficking. But, for all I know, the whole thing was perfectly innocent. It wasn’t my business, other than the fact that it was happening in front of me.

The treatment hut could have been more relaxing and kind of felt a little hokey. There was a sauna area. One was supposed to be technology free (no phones), while the other was supposed to be quiet. The saunas weren’t very hot, and people weren’t particularly respectful. Then after the sauna, you move to an area where cold water drips on you. I found it drafty and unpleasant, and quickly moved to the next phase, where you slather a salt scrub all over your body, then sit in a steam room, which was crowded enough that there wasn’t enough seating. Then there’s a shower and you drink a shot of crowberry juice, which was nice. Outside the hut, there’s a cold plunge pool. Someone was in it when we came out, and he was somehow smiling. He laughed when I touched the frigid water with my toes and said, “Not a chance!”

We got back into the water and drank at the bar. Each patron over age 20 is allowed a maximum of three alcoholic beverages per visit. Naturally, I maxed that out. I’m sure the limit is to prevent people from getting too drunk and obnoxious. They have beer, wine, champagne, sparkling wine, cocktails, and a variety of non-alcoholic drinks served in plastic drinkware. I noticed later that the salt scrub had made my skin very soft.

Our driver had agreed to meet us at 1:30 PM and told us to let him know if we needed him sooner or later than that. We were done right at 1:30, so it worked out great. He took us back to the hotel, and later, we went out for lunch at the Hard Rock Cafe, of all places. I wanted a cheeseburger in the worst way. I wanted it to taste good… as I have discovered that sometimes European restaurants can’t do decent burgers. Below are some photos from our visit to the Sky Lagoon and Hard Rock Cafe.

After we ate lunch, we walked around a bit more, and then ended up at The Downtown Bar, which was just steps away from our hotel. We spent some quality time in this establishment, where they played really good music that I kept Shazaming and downloading. I have missed good bars! They just had mostly beer and wine, but the service was very friendly, and again… the music really made the atmosphere. I guess I should thank Spotify for that!

By the time we were finished at the bar, it was well into the evening. We picked up more Sbarro at the market and went back to the hotel room to watch the news. Yeah, we’re boring… but we’re also middle aged. And cold, windy, rainy weather has a tendency to make us sleepy. It was our last Sbarro run, though. I might not have it again for the rest of my life!

That about does it for Thursday… Stay tuned for my post on the last full day, and then the journey back to Germany!

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beaches, Champagne Bucket trips, Iceland, tours

Our first Icelandic adventure: The last day with Ivar… (part ten)

It was still beautiful and sunny when we arrived at the lovely Hotel Búðir in Búðir, Iceland on the late afternoon of September 3. I was enchanted by the hotel’s setting, alone on a lava field, at the westernmost tip of the Snaefellsnes peninsula. The landscape had changed again, as we were right on the water, having passed a few mountains with waterfalls to get to this isolated haven. Just up the hill, there was what appeared to be a charming black church. If I hadn’t been so exhausted from the day’s many activities, I think I might have wanted to walk up there for a look. Maybe I should have worked up the gumption to do it, anyway.

It turns out this hotel is pretty famous for being one of Iceland’s most beautiful places to stay. I must agree that it really is a beautiful, restful place, mainly for the gorgeous surroundings. I also found the hotel to be very restful. It’s the kind of place where one might hole up and just sleep, read books, or watch the tides come in and out as sheep graze peacefully, completely free to wander. In fact, one sheep even came around and peeked into the window by the bar area. I wish I’d been quick enough to get a photo.

Ivar said Iceland Luxury Tours once had a client who only wanted them to drive him to the little black church for three hours and then pick him up again. They were puzzled by the request, but did it. It turned out the guy was getting married there. When we arrived at the hotel, I heard Ivar ask about a wake up service. I think it was in case the northern lights appeared. September is when they start becoming visible, and the hotel is clearly in a great place to view them. I don’t think they appeared on the night we were there.

We checked into our “superior double” and made dinner reservations, then enjoyed a glass of wine in the bar, before we had a pleasant dinner in an almost empty restaurant. Well, it was almost empty until about thirty minutes into our reservation, when a large party showed up for a set dinner. I wasn’t sorry about that. The dining room was pretty quiet, especially compared to the bustling restaurant at Hotel Geysir the night before!

Below are some photos from our afternoon and evening at Hotel Búðir…

I wish I could report that we had beautiful weather the next morning. Unfortunately, it was raining again when we awoke, and the previously sunny outdoors was cold, foggy, and wet. We went down to the dining room for breakfast, then packed up for our last full day with our guide, who would be taking us back to the Saga Hotel in Reykjavik at the end of the day. I think Hotel Búðir was my favorite of the hotels where we stayed. I think I would have enjoyed an extra night there. Maybe we’ll have a chance to return.

I made it down to the lobby before Bill did. Ivar had just walked in, and when he saw me, he grabbed my bags and took them to the Land Cruiser. He asked me where my rain jacket was. I said it was in the Land Cruiser. He offered to get it for me, and I said I’d be okay… Boy did that turn out to be a crazy statement. Bill checked out of the lovely hotel, and we made our way back to our journey.

A short time later, we stopped at a huge monument for Bárður Snæfellsás. Ivar patiently told us the story about this mythical being, but to be very honest, I was focused on the sideways rain and wind that had picked up. The story of the troll can be found at the above link… as well as a nice, sunny picture. I got a rainy picture.

After we visited the monument, we went to an overlook that offered more views of the stormy sea… I also got a very short video clip of the sea, but I think I’ll save it for a composite Iceland video.

I got fairly wet at that stop. Then after about twenty minutes, we went to another stop near a lighthouse, which led to a visit to Djúpalónssandur, a beach where a trawler wrecked in 1948. Remnants of the wreckage are still on the beach. However, by the time we got there, the rain and wind were such that one could lean back and be supported by the air. It was positively miserable climbing down to the beach and then back up again.

I got thoroughly soaked, and I told Bill that I didn’t want to spend another day climbing in and out of the Land Cruiser, getting wetter and crankier. I’m not sure if Ivar heard me over the howling wind, but even he seemed to realize that trying to tour these sites in that weather wasn’t going to be pleasant or educational for any of us. So we spent most of the day driving in the car, with the exception of one special impromptu stop, which I’ll get to… Below are some photos from Djúpalónssandur. I can’t deny that even when the weather sucks, it is a beautiful place.

As we drove around the peninsula, we visited small fishing villages, stopping in one for a bathroom break. At one point, I mentioned that we hadn’t yet seen a rainbow. About five minutes later, as if by magic, an incredible rainbow appeared. I got many pictures! But before we saw the rainbow, I got even more evidence of the powerful wind. In the below photos, you can see a man standing alone. It was some guy with long hair… he was standing in the wind, letting his long hair blow in the wind like a flag!

Below are some pictures of the small fishing village where we stopped before we saw our rainbow…. You can see that besides natural beauty and friendly people, Iceland also has a “cool factor”– cool in the vernacular sense, that is.

Soon we were traveling by the wild Atlantic Ocean, and I mentioned the lack of rainbows as the sun peeked from behind the clouds. Ask and ye shall receive! The rainbow stuck around for a long time– I’d say, at least a half hour. It was incredible! It almost felt like a grand finale to our tour outside of Reykjavik.

Soon we came upon a sign for a shark museum. Ivar had never been to that particular tourist attraction, but the weather was getting rougher and we could have used another potty break. So we made our way there, and soon found ourselves at the Bjarnarhofn Shark Museum learning about Greenland sharks about how people used to die from eating their meat because they were full of urea. Eventually, people learned that the meat could be safely eaten if the shark was properly prepared through fermentation.

A young woman who had an engaging manner and a very American sounding accent explained the whole story to us, and before we knew it, Bill and I were tasting the delicacy, known as Hakarl. I even got Bill on video. It starts with stormy seas, shows him gamely eating Hakarl, then ends with another small waterfall.

The most memorable part of tasting the shark meat was the slight hit of ammonia on the aftertaste. If you can get over that, it’s not too bad at all. And we lived to tell the tale!

If the weather had been better, we could have gone into the area where they ferment the shark meat, which the proprietors of the museum say they get when Greenland sharks are accidentally caught and killed. Although they used to hunt the sharks, they no longer do. Still, they had plenty of products for sale in their little gift shop. The wind was so strong, however, that we could barely open the door to leave the premises! I liked Iceland, but I think that weather would drive me batty!

Once we were finished with the shark museum, it was time to head more toward Reykjavik. We continued toward the city, stopping at a cute little restaurant called Vegamot Biludidal (crossroads). I can see by its Trip Advisor reviews that many other people enjoyed it as much as we did. I really enjoyed my barbecued chicken, while Bill had the local fish soup. I wish I could have either of those dishes today… especially if someone else prepared them. 😉

After lunch, it was pretty clear our incredible tour with Ivar was winding down. Soon, we were back in Reykjavik, and Ivar was pointing out a few more points of interest, offering advice for what to do on Thursday and Friday, our last two days before we flew home last Saturday. Here are a few more photos from the last minutes in the Land Cruiser…

By mid afternoon, we were once again in front of the Hotel Reykjavik Saga. Ivar unloaded our bags and helped us take them into the hotel. We shook hands and Bill handed him a hand written thank you note and a large wad of Icelandic bills. I don’t know how much the tip was. I hope it was enough… although Ivar did tell us ahead of time that tipping is entirely optional and discretionary in Iceland.

As Americans, it’s ingrained in us to tip… and many of us fret about how much it should be and how to present it without being tacky. Personally, I would prefer to do away with the practice and just see to it that everyone is paid fairly for the work they do. Having worked as a waitress in the United States, I know that will probably never happen in my lifetime. Too many people in the service industry prefer things the way they are. But then the whole tipping drama spills over to other countries, who don’t want to feel like they have to tip for everything. I hasten to add that I certainly don’t fault Bill for tipping Ivar, because he absolutely deserved an extra something for all he did for us. Plus, he was genuinely very knowledgable, kind, and nice to be with. I felt like he became a friend. I was sorry to say goodbye.

When we checked into the Saga Hotel, we were given the same room we had at the beginning of our trip– 237. I’m not sure if that was by luck or design. In any case, we retired to the room and I didn’t venture out again. Bill went out to get us slices of Sbarro pizza from the local market and we relaxed and watched TV. On Thursday, we would have our last day of service with Iceland Luxury Tours… a trip to the Sky Lagoon. More on that in the next post.

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Champagne Bucket trips, Iceland

Our first Icelandic adventure: Sunshine, many waterfalls, hot springs, and a beautiful hotel… (part nine)

After we visited the geysers, Bill, Ivar, and I loaded up the Land Cruiser and headed off to our very first stop on the Golden Circle tour, the most photographed waterfall in Iceland– the incredible Gullfoss Falls. These falls are located in the canyon of the Hvítá River in southwest Iceland. Ivar warned us to wear rain gear, as this waterfall is so powerful that it’s easy to get wet just standing near it. Even though we finally had sunny skies and relatively warm temperatures, I was pretty glad I had a rain jacket during our visit.

We started by looking at the falls from the parking lot, which was at a lower level than where the visitor center is. Ivar moved the Land Cruiser to the upper parking lot by the visitor center, while we climbed a couple of flights of stairs for a higher view of these incredibly powerful waterfalls. I couldn’t help but wonder how many people have been unlucky enough to go over the falls; then I kind of shuddered when I felt the power of them. It was extraordinary.

The sound and the fury of the Gullfoss Falls are not to be forgotten!

Below are some still shots I got at the Gullfoss Falls…

After we visited the waterfalls, we went into the visitor center for a quick bathroom break. I might have liked a few minutes to look around the visitor center, as it had a lot of cute merch for sale…

But we had other things to do and see, and our next stop was probably my favorite of al of our waterfall stops– Bruarfoss. Here we had a peaceful place with bright blue water flowing through black rocks and dirt. The colors were striking, and there was a little bridge that made filming easy. These falls are known as a “hidden gem” and Iceland’s bluest waterfalls. Check out the video to see why!

No, they aren’t the most powerful falls, but they sure are beautiful!

Once we visited Bruarfoss Falls, we got back on the road to a place known as the “birthplace of Iceland”, Thingvellir Park. Ivar explained the history of how Iceland came to be in the year 1944, as it was previously a territory of both Norway and Denmark before it became its own country. I could see that the place was huge, and we really only got a short visit there. Some people might spend a couple of days camping at this park. Ivar said there were folks who went diving there, as the water is very clear. Still, it was good to walk around and see even more waterfalls, including one where women who were suspected of being witches were thrown into as a test to see if they were witches. It was considered kinder to drown them than do to them what was done to the men– beheading or burning at the stake!

We still weren’t done with waterfalls after this!

And some still photos… Ivar told us about a burial ground at this site where the most honorable people of Iceland are invited to be buried. At this writing, there are only a couple of people buried here, and they were moved after they died. No one else has felt worthy enough to be buried at Iceland’s birthplace… but Ivar says he thinks that will soon change. 😉

I had to tell him that I don’t think we have that “problem” in the United States.

As we were about to leave Thingvellir, Ivar was talking to another guide who had a group of Indians with him. They apparently didn’t speak English, so the guide was having quite the trip with them. Maybe my constant chatter was less of a problem than that. 😀

From Thingvellir, we headed back into the Highlands to get to our next stop. Ivar asked if we needed lunch before we started our journey. Bill answered “no”, but then thought to ask me. I reminded him that I had a whole bunch of granola bars in the back from the previous day, in case I started feeling bitchy.

Iceland is also where it’s technically possible to be in North America and Europe, as the North American and European tectonic plates meet there. The eastern part of the country is on the Eurasian plate, while the western part is on the North American plate. In a weird way, it’s kind of like Istanbul, being divided between Europe and Asia. No wonder Iceland is so “otherworldly”. But, of course, Iceland is considered part of Europe for all other intents and purposes.

The next part of the trip was interesting, as the landscape changed again, to orange rocks, grey silty waters, and the occasional moss green. I took lots of photos of that, too… It reminded me of pictures I’ve seen of Mars.

After awhile, we came out on the other side of the Highlands and stopped at a hotel for lunch. They had a buffet, which Ivar went for, while Bill and I ordered a la carte. Fish and chips for me, and a chicken Caesar salad for Bill, washed down with draft beer…

Then it was back on the road to…. more waterfalls! Perhaps these were kind of a “showstopper”– Barnafoss and Hraunfoss.

At the beginning, you can hear me talking about Natural Bridge, Virginia, a place near and dear to my heart. It’s where my dad was born and raised, and where a lot of my family still lives.

Barnafoss, the smaller falls, is translated as the Children’s Falls, as there’s a myth about how two boys got bored waiting for their parents and decided to try to find them. They crossed a stone bridge at the water, but got dizzy, fell in, and drowned. Their mother put a spell on the bridge so that anyone else who tried to cross it would also drown. The bridge was later destroyed by an earthquake.

The larger falls are Hraunfossar, which flow from a lava field. They take their name from the Icelandic word “Hraun”, which means lava. They’re pretty awesome, aren’t they? I’m so glad we had nice weather for all of these waterfalls! On another note, imagine this place in the middle of fall! I’ll bet it’s just glorious!

Finally, we got back into the Land Cruiser for one last stop before we ended at Hotel Budir for the night. We went to see natural hot springs… much hotter than the ones at the campground we saw the day before. This was a very short stop, and I don’t even remember the name of the springs. I do remember the smell of sulfur, though, and the tremendous heat.

There were many signs warning about how dangerous these hot springs are… hence the fencing!

And a few photos from there…

Well… since this has been a very full posting with lots of photos and videos, I think I’ll stop here. Next post will be about Hotel Budir and our last day with Ivar. Stay tuned!

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Champagne Bucket trips, horses, Iceland, videos

Our first Icelandic adventure: Meeting some Icelandic horses! (part five)

At the end of our first day with Ivar, we were taken to our first hotel on the road, Skálakot Manor Hotel. We went there, in part, because it was convenient to our route, but also because we requested to meet some Icelandic horses. As some of my regular readers might know, I grew up riding and showing horses, and even had a horse of my own for several years. I have really missed being around horses, but I gave them up for college and life hasn’t yet presented me with the opportunity to get back into that world. But, even though I don’t ride anymore, I still love horses. Just the smell of them takes me back to wonderful days spent hanging out with my Appaloosa, Rusty, dreaming about the future. So I was pretty excited to get to visit the Icelandic horses at Skálakot Manor, in spite of the inclement weather.

Skálakot Manor itself is a lovely property, and obviously the horses are a big selling point to their business. When we checked in, we received our room key, which was attached to a small horseshoe. The hotel was decorated with equine inspired art. Iceland Luxury Tours booked us in a Grand Double, which I think was one of the few rooms with a balcony. I might have enjoyed the balcony, if not for the rain, but it did give me a vantage point to watch the mares and foals in the front pasture.

As for the visit with the horses, that also went very well. We met a very young looking stable manager, along with a young lady who appeared to be in her teens. They gave us a demonstration with a lovely bay Icelandic horse named Naffy. I didn’t record the demonstration, but it was fun to watch the teenager put Naffy through his paces. Icelandic horses are gaited, meaning that they have at least one, and often two, “special” gaits that other horses don’t have. Below is a YouTube video I found demonstrating the gaits: walk, trot, canter/gallop, tölt, and flying pace. If you watch the video, you can see how the gaits differ in how the horse moves his legs.

A very useful video!

I think the stable manager quickly realized that I had some horse experience, as she asked me questions. Her first question was what made the horses different. I said that where I come from, they would be considered ponies, due to their height. But Icelandic horses are, in fact, horses, in spite of being short in stature. She also asked me what I noticed about the saddle. I said it looked like a dressage saddle. She agreed. I also mentioned that Naffy wasn’t wearing a saddle pad, which I always used on my horse. The manager showed me the simple bridle the horses wear, and said they don’t use other equipment, like martingales (a piece of tack that has a strap keeping the horse’s head down– I never needed to use it myself.)

I was impressed by the lovely seat the young lady riding Naffy had. She looked beautiful on him. My own equitation was never as graceful as hers was, but I think it helps to be very slender, which I have never been. I did win some equitation ribbons, back in the day, but I was never that good at it.

The stable manager also explained how the horses were marked. Icelandic horses can be any color. And she explained that the horses at the farm were marked, showing where they came from. If you look in my video, you might see a horse with an S on his back. That means he was born at Skalakot. The hotel has other horses that were born elsewhere and marked accordingly. I don’t know how many horses Skálakot Manor Hotel has. The manager said they had “fitter” horses for people who were regular riders, as well as gentle horses for beginners. I could see that the horses were all getting winter coats, even though it was still technically summer. But, of course, we were in Iceland, right?

After the demonstration, the two young ladies rounded up all of the horses in their muddy paddock and herded them to a pasture on the other side of the property for the evening. I got a video of that, although I’m sorry to say, it’s not quite perfect.

This was probably my favorite part of the trip.

I also got some photos of the barn and relived my many days shoveling manure as I breathed in the smell of horse pee and poop. The folks at hotel have done things right, though, as the stalls are built so the waste mostly goes under the barn. 😉 You can see that in the pictures.

The horses were all very calm and friendly… and they made me feel the same way. I was smiling as we went back into the hotel to prepare for dinner.

As we were sitting in the dining room, I could tell that a lot of the guests where there to ride horses. One very loud gentleman, clearly from the United States, was talking about the American Saddlebreds he owns. I don’t have much personal experience with Saddlebreds, except for when I used to judge them in 4H horse judging competitions. But the loud guy was going on and on, and the whole dining room could hear him. I found myself explaining Saddlebreds to Bill. Like Icelandic horses, they are also gaited, though they’re much larger and their gaits are different.

Below are some photos of our room, and from dinner… which was pretty good. The room was very cute and comfortable, although the bathroom was pretty tiny.

I sound a little drunk in this… Sorry!

Breakfast, which was included in the price of the room, was also very good. They had great coffee, and a buffet set up. Those who wanted to order something hot could also do so, although we were fine with what they had laid out for us. I was kind of sorry to leave, as the hotel had a spa area (extra charge) and I would have liked to visit the horses again. Oh well. Maybe we can go back someday. Below are a few more horse photos that I took on our way out.

Although there was a lot more that happened on Sunday, I’ll put that in the next post. This one is full enough, and I’ve got some major ground to cover with what happened on Sunday…

Stay tuned!

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adventure, Champagne Bucket trips, Iceland

Our first Icelandic adventure: From Frankfurt to Reykjavik– August 29, 2024 (part two)

On August 29, 2024, I wrote a blog post on this site about our much anticipated trip to Iceland. That day had been months in the making. I didn’t know what to expect that morning, as I packed my bags for our trip to a most unusual destination. In Germany, it had been very hot. It was still hot when we returned yesterday, although today it’s a bit stormy and much cooler. It seemed counterintuitive to pack sweaters, pants, and waterproof shoes in my bags. I also threw in a pair of shorts and a t-shirt, just in case it was warmer than expected. I’d seen the rainy forecast for our trip, but I’d heard Iceland’s weather was unpredictable. Plus, not bringing cooler clothes when it was still so warm in Germany seemed wrong somehow.

Even though I did my best to plan my attire for the trip, I kind of failed in my preparations. I was missing waterproof clothes. Until we went to Iceland, I didn’t own a raincoat. I still don’t have waterproof trousers. I dread the idea of trying to shop for them, because clothes shopping is a massive pain in the ass for me. But, I may go ahead and look for them, even though our trip to Iceland is done now. I can use them in Germany, too… and I’ve learned that I really need to walk more.

I think the combination of the pandemic and menopause has done a real number on my body. I’ve gained weight and lost fitness, plus I recognize that when I walk, I physically feel better. Maybe if I walked more, I wouldn’t have to consider consulting another physician about these gut problems I’ve been having… since the last doctor blew me off. I noticed that when we were in Iceland, my gut bothered me much less. The symptoms didn’t go away completely, but they were much reduced. So now I think the German doctor’s diagnosis might have been correct… but I still can’t trust him again after he twice tried to do a colonoscopy before I was unconscious.

Anyway… after Bill took Noyzi and Charlie to the Hundepension Birkenhof, we ordered a taxi to the airport. Bill has determined that it’s a lot easier to get a cab to the airport than try to drive there himself and park. I can’t say I blame him for that, although the guy who picked us up seemed a bit clueless. The driver missed the exit for the airport, and I could see Bill getting upset, even though we had plenty of time to get to the gate. At least the cab driver knocked some euros off the fare.

Even though it was hot that day, I wore pants, because I knew it would be chilly in Iceland. I wasn’t wrong about that.

There was a large queue of people in line to check in for our flight to Iceland. I was surprised by that, but as I would come to learn on our trip, Iceland is a very popular tourist destination right now. It wasn’t always so. I think the proliferation of fantasy oriented television shows and movies have put Iceland on the map. But maybe I’m wrong about that.

Since I booked Saga Class (business) on Icelandair, we were able to check in using the business class line. It was quick and easy, as was getting through security. Once we did that, we were on our way to the Air France business lounge, which Icelandair Saga Class passengers are allowed to use at Frankfurt Airport.

Bill and I usually fly Lufthansa from Germany, since I am slowly collecting points. I could have booked Lufthansa again for this trip, but their prices were significantly higher, while their business class experience is nothing to write home about. I might have paid the extra money anyway, except the available flights weren’t offered at times convenient for us. I also wanted to experience a different airline.

Now that we’ve flown on Icelandair, I can say that I’m really pleased that I chose them over Lufthansa. Both of our flights were very pleasant, with good food, entertainment, and comfortable seats. The planes were very clean, and the service on board was attentive and friendly. I wouldn’t hesitate to book them again, especially for flights to and from Iceland. Below are few shots from the Frankfurt airport, along with the Air France lounge… It was no frills, but did the trick of refreshing us before our flight.

On the flight to Reykjavik, we were seated in seats 1D and 1F. Instead of giving passengers regular seats with a free spot between them, Icelandair offers deluxe seats, which are a bit larger. It was like flying first class in the USA. The seats were outfitted with pillows and bottled waters, and we were offered Bose headphones and blanket throws to use during the flight. Saga Class also offers free WiFi when it’s available, drinks, and food, along with a generous baggage allowance and use of the lounges. We had great weather going to Iceland, and. the flight was very smooth and comfortable. I think the business class product by Icelandair is better than what Lufthansa offers.

We were told we’d be met by a driver who would be holding up a sign. It took a little while for us to get our luggage, but once we collected all of our bags, it was easy to find our first driver, a tall, handsome man who came to fetch us in a large, luxurious Mercedes van. He was holding a sign up with Bill’s name on it. I never caught the driver’s name, but he said he was an independent contractor. The driver obviously knew all about Iceland Luxury Tours, and was very friendly as he talked about how Iceland went from a place of punishment for the US sailors who were once based there, to a hot tourist destination. Wikipedia says that US forces have since returned to Iceland, since the base was closed in 2006, although I don’t think the US military presence is anything like what it once was.

We were fortunate on our ride to Reykjavik, as we passed an active volcano. I managed to get a few photos of the mountain, which by yesterday, was only sending off smoke, rather than lava. Below are some photos from our drive. This was the only active volcanic action we saw during our time in Iceland.

Iceland Luxury Tours booked us for two nights in a deluxe room at Hotel Reykjavik Saga. This hotel is extremely convenient to downtown Reykjavik, which was a good thing for us. We had planned for Friday, August 30, to be a “free day”, to be spent wandering around the city and maybe doing some city tourist stuff on our own. Although we probably could have gone out and done something Thursday evening, we were kind of overwhelmed by the activities of the day. We decided to have dinner at the hotel restaurant and go to bed early.

I had been wanting a steak when we went to dinner. I don’t know why. I was just craving one. I ordered a rib-eye, while Bill had pasta made with squid ink and topped with shrimp. We paired it with a French red, and watched as one of the waiters kind of botched service with a European couple sitting near us. They had ordered a round of drinks that they wanted to enjoy before dinner.

Unfortunately, their waiter put the order for their food and wine in before they had their drinks. The food came out before the wine did, and before they had finished their cocktails. I could see the female half of the couple getting upset, and even begging for a few minutes to enjoy their drinks. I tried to explain what was happening on Facebook, but I think some of my American friends don’t understand that things tend to be less rushed in European restaurants. Wait staff don’t depend on tips to make a living, so there’s no need to turn tables fast.

Still, I got the sense that the waiter was in need of some training. This wasn’t a case of people obnoxiously taking their time, which a lot of Americans would fault them for. Even as an American server, I was taught to pace meals appropriately. I have a feeling that couple’s food ended up sitting under heat while they drank their mixed drinks, which may have made the food less enjoyable for them.

Then a huge group of people showed up, and the restaurant started to sound a bit like a middle school cafeteria. I wasn’t in the mood for that, so Bill and I finished up our desserts and went to our room for the night. I was surprised to find the TV had mostly British networks. It was kind of a treat to watch the BBC again. As for dinner, it was okay, but expensive for what it was. My steak was pretty small, and had kind of a weird flavor. Bill liked his pasta more. We didn’t have dinner at the hotel restaurant again. Its menu was a bit too limited.

So ends my report of our first day… Please stay tuned for more!

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adventure, Champagne Bucket trips, Iceland, Nordic

Our first Icelandic adventure: How did we end up there? (part one)

Bill and I just got home from Iceland yesterday afternoon. I’ve been itching to write about our visit to the mysterious island nation for days now, but have held off on starting the series until we got home. Although I sometimes start writing before trips end, this time, this time I decided I needed to wait. I wanted to be near my desktop computer, where I have more tools to edit photos and make videos. I also find writing on the desktop much easier than writing on the laptop; that’s important, because I have a lot of ground to cover.

But, really, the main reason I waited was because we have been VERY busy. Seriously… it seems like we’ve been gone a month, even though our trip was only for about ten days. One of our drivers estimated we saw about 30 percent of Iceland on our trip. My guess is that we saw less than that, mainly because Bill and I are older and less willing to traipse through the wilderness. There’s a lot of wild country in Iceland, and the weather can be brutal, especially if you’re not adequately prepared.

I’m sorry to report, I was not quite ready for Iceland’s hostile climate. Bill had, at least, done some shopping on Bergfreunde.de for new shoes and a hat. Luckily, there are businesspeople in Iceland who anticipate tourists like me, and there are quite a few Icewear stores scattered about the more populated areas. When we stopped by Icewear, we saw many other people who were in the same situation we were… buying raincoats, shoes, beanies… and the smarter ones probably invested in waterproof pants. I sure wish I had!

Nevertheless, in spite of being somewhat underprepared, Bill and I managed to enjoy our visit unscathed. Neither of us got sick or injured. And… according to the pedometer app on my iPhone, we covered about 17 miles walking… which may not seem like a lot to younger, fitter people, but for a fatass housewife like me, it’s a pretty good deal. Especially when one considers the weather! It wasn’t super cold, but the rain and wind were incredible; I had never experienced anything like it before. I wasn’t prepared for that on this visit, but if we manage to go to Iceland again, I will definitely be more ready for it.

So how did we end up going to Iceland in the first place?

Bill and I have a ritual of choosing our vacations by luck. We used to be fans of Eurowings’ “blind booking” program, in which you book a flight somewhere, but don’t know where you’re going until after you’ve paid. We did that a few times when Eurowings was still called Germanwings. But then we later had more money, and less desire to fly places on the cheap. I’m sure my expanding ass had a lot to do with that. 😉

We also have two dogs who have to be accommodated by the local Hundpension, which makes it harder for us to be too spontaneous. When we still had our comparatively small beagles, Zane and Arran, it was sometimes easier to just take them with us when we went places. But now we have Noyzi, who takes up all the cargo space in the back of the Volvo. And we have Charlie, who is still kind of afraid of riding in the car. It’s better to board them when we go places.

We started planning trips with the same “surprise” idea of blind bookings, only instead of letting the airline decide, we let the champagne bucket choose. We put scraps of paper in the bucket and Bill picks one. If the selection is feasible for when we want to travel, we book it. At some point in the spring, he picked Iceland. We were delighted with that result, because Iceland was a place we both really wanted to visit before we shove off the mortal coil. Iceland isn’t cheap, so it’s good to go there when the cash flow is good… and it’s also potentially physically challenging, so it’s best to visit when one has the stamina and ability to get around somewhat easily.

I did have some worries about the weather, even though we were technically visiting in the summer… but then I saw memes like the one below…

Don’t let that “green land” fool you… Bring a jacket!

I got fooled into thinking Iceland is more temperate than it is. I mean, it is temperate, considering where it’s located, but it’s certainly not temperate like Germany is. When we left Germany, it was hot as the dickens! The funny thing is, when Bill went to Reykjavik in 2009, it was around the time of my June birthday. He brought me a wool scarf and a CD of Icelandic folk tunes sung acapella by people with very ordinary voices. I was confused by the wool scarf in June… until now. 😉

Finding Iceland Luxury Tours…

So anyway, Bill picked Iceland out of the bucket, and the responsibility came down to me to plan the trip. I don’t know why I was inspired to hire a guide for our visit to Iceland. We’ve never done a private tour before, although we have done at least one group tour together (which I’m not very good at). I guess, somewhere in my brain, I realized that visiting rugged Iceland, with its unpredictable weather and rough roads, might go better if we had a local doing the driving. I wasn’t as wise about the weather in terms of dressing, but I did at least have enough common sense to look into finding us a guide/driver. Somehow, in the process of planning, I came across Iceland Luxury Tours.

I’m a big believer in reading reviews, although I do realize that a lot of people tend to write them when they’re either pissed off or very happy. I found many positive reviews of Iceland Luxury Tours on multiple sources, including Trip Advisor, which in my experience, often turns out to be the most accurate source of all. I review most of our travel experiences, and I try to be as honest as possible, even if I’ve had a mediocre time. I was impressed that Iceland Luxury Tours had many five star reviews and glowing comments, and only three four star ratings. It had not been rated lower by anyone. On Google, there were far fewer reviews, but the ones they had were all raving. So I asked Bill to contact them to see what they could do for us.

Bill sent an inquiry to Iceland Luxury Tours, and the owner, Sveinn Sigurður Kjartansson, was quick to respond. After Bill offered a budget, Sveinn proposed some itineraries. Then we tweaked the trip to suit our interests. For example, I am a big time horse lover. Iceland is famous for its Icelandic horses (and they are horses– not ponies). Sveinn added a visit to a horse farm to our trip. We like spas, so he added a visit to the Sky Lagoon. We’re not super fit or thrill seeking, so those kinds of activities were omitted. Later, when I realized that flying home on Friday, as we’d planned, would be significantly more expensive, we added a day. Sveinn added activities for that extra day.

How much did it cost?

Well, folks… I’ll be honest. This was a very expensive trip. Iceland Luxury Tours planned everything for us, to include our luxury hotels, breakfasts, private tours/tickets to several attractions, transfers to and from the airport, transportation to the Sky Lagoon, and five full days with our guide, Ivar, and a very capable Toyota Land Cruiser. I think Bill said it all came to about $17,300 or so… And then I booked round trip Saga Class (business) tickets on Icelandair, which was well worth doing, but not a cheap endeavor. I think the tickets were about $2500 for the two of us, give or take $100. Fortunately, we had the money to cover it, and a new travel credit card from PenFed that offers generous travel benefits.

Now, I do realize we could have done this trip much more cheaply, even with a guide. We could have scaled down the budget significantly and still had a memorable experience. But these days, I like to travel in comfort. I’ve had my fill of traveling cheaply… and believe me, I’ve done plenty of that in my lifetime! Luckily, Bill doesn’t mind being more comfortable, and we currently have the means to travel that way.

Although we don’t usually spend that much on our trips, it did occur to me that last year, we spent a couple of weeks in Scandinavia and spent well over $20,000. That trip included about a week on our own in Norway, a week on the Regent Splendor, and then a couple of nights in Denmark. So, this trip to Iceland, which is probably going to be our one big vacation this year, isn’t that far out of line for us. But I do want to reiterate– you don’t have to spend that much yourself. You can do fewer days with a guide, concentrate in a smaller area, do group tours instead of private ones, eat cheaper food… and avoid drinking alcohol. 😉

I do recommend hiring a guide, though, especially if you want to go to any rugged parts of the country. There will be more on that in the coming posts. When I start sharing photos and videos, you’ll certainly see why!

So… now it’s time to write the story of our first trip to Iceland. I hope you’ll join me on this very bumpy but exhilarating ride!

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Champagne Bucket trips, Iceland

So long, Iceland… it’s been a real trip!

We’re headed back to Frankfurt this morning. I woke up at about 4:30 AM and couldn’t get back to sleep. It’s now 6:30 AM, and in an hour, we will be picked up and shuttled to the airport, which is about 45 minutes away from Reykjavik.

Hopefully the flight will be smooth and painless, and we’ll arrive home safely. I’m ready to do laundry and start writing about this amazing vacation we’ve had in Iceland. It really has been an incredible experience, especially when we were out in the “country”. We had a great experience with Iceland Luxury Tours, so I can’t wait to add a positive review on Trip Advisor for them. I also really want to get back to creating song parodies and other videos. Most of the next week, I suspect, will be spent writing the story of this trip and making travel videos.

I love traveling, but after awhile, it’s just time to go home. But there were a lot of things we didn’t manage to do on this trip, so maybe we’ll have a reason to come back to Iceland. And if we do, I will come better prepared, with at least one pair of waterproof pants! I can see why Iceland’s sporting goods chain, Icewear, is everywhere in this country.

Here are a few more photos before I head off into the friendly skies… These were taken yesterday, as we walked back to the big church (proper name forthcoming) and took the elevator up to get a view of the city.

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Champagne Bucket trips, Iceland

Still more photos before I go home tomorrow…

Today is our last full day in Iceland. We’ve had a really good time over the past eight days. I’m a little sad to be leaving, yet I’m also glad to be going home. I have a lot of laundry to do, plus I’ve missed my dogs. I also have big plans to write up this trip, making some videos– travel and musical– and perhaps reconsider some of my lifestyle habits. 😉

Overall, Iceland has been fantastic, though. The people are very nice; they have great taste in music; and the scenery is stunning, even if the weather often sucks. Bill has especially enjoyed himself. I think he’s going to be talking about this vacation for a very long time. It goes down as one of our best… at least as I write this. We still have tomorrow’s flight and transfer to the airport to consider.

Below are a few more photos from our vacation to Iceland. I truly do hope we can come back.

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Champagne Bucket trips, Iceland

And here are a few more photos from the past couple of days…

I don’t have much time to write, as we are checking out of our hotel in about twenty minutes. But I did want to put up a few more photos for the curious…

I will definitely have a lot to write about when I get back to Germany! We have seen so many eye popping geological fascinations this week. Yes, this trip is costing a lot, but it is money well spent!

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