Alsace, short breaks

Reunited with France… and it felt so good to be back! Part five…

Friday morning, after yet another excellent and much smaller breakfast, we decided to visit the town of Bitche. I first hear of Bitche when an Army friend visited there with her family. My friend and her husband are both retired Army officers who were still on active duty when they were living in Stuttgart. We met them years earlier, when we were neighbors at Fort Belvoir, an Army post in Virginia. It’s always funny to run into people on military installations worldwide!

My friend, who is now living in Hawaii, had a habit of taking road trips with her children, and one of the places they visited was Bitche, which is of particular interest to military enthusiasts. The town, which is located very close to the German border in the Moselle department of Lorraine, features an enormous citadel that dates back 800 years. I knew Bill would be interested in the citadel, but I wanted to go there because of the name of the town. I’m immature like that. 😉 Remember, I also made a point of visiting Fucking, Austria, before its name changed to Fugging, thanks to obnoxious American tourists. We even made a pilgrimage to Fuckersberg, Austria, which is basically a big field. You can easily search for and find my blog posts about those adventures from September 2015.

Bitche has the distinction of having had its Facebook page erroneously and unceremoniously shut down. It was probably because of the name, and what “bitch” means in English. Maybe some Facebook bot thought Bitche was a bullying page. The page was later reinstated, and the mayor got an apology. Anyway, Bitche is not pronounced the way we pronounce it in English, just as Fucking, Austria was not pronounced the way it was spelled. Below is a video with the pronunciation of Bitche.

It sounds kind of like “Beet’sche”

Bitche is about an hour’s drive from Sessenheim. It’s also about an hour away from Ramstein and Kaiserslautern, so it probably gets a lot of American visitors from there. We didn’t do much more in Bitche than walk around the charming village, where I saw yet another adorable European beagle. He looked like he could have been the brother to the one we saw in Sessenheim. I didn’t get a picture of him, since he was being walked by his human, who noticed me admiring his pooch. He said “Bonjour!”

I did notice a nice looking restaurant on the main drag of the town. It was called Aux Gourmand ’10. We happened to be passing it just as it was about to open for lunch. I looked them up on TripAdvisor and noticed they got encouraging reviews. Plus, regular readers of my blog may know that Bill and I have a bad habit of putting off eating for too long. I’m glad I made a point of looking on TripAdvisor with the restaurant’s actual name, since typing in “Bitche” and “Gourmand” got me porn results. Below are some shots of the village.

Aux Gourmand ’10 is clearly a popular place in Bitche. It’s very stylishly decorated, although it’s not a very large establishment. A lot of locales were dining there and appeared to be enjoying themselves and the food very much. The menu changes daily, and was presented on chalkboards on the walls and on little easels that were placed on the table. Bill and I knew we would be enjoying a gourmet meal at the hotel on Friday night, so we were a little hesitant in ordering too much. We didn’t have to worry. The portion sizes were just right, and the food and service were very good. I had a faux filet with frites and a simple green salad (which I actually finished). Bill had a salmon filet with creamy risotto and grilled vegetables. His dish was great, except the vegetables included the dreaded mushrooms. I’m glad I avoided ordering that– I have learned that a lot of “vegetable medleys” include mushrooms.

I think our waitress was a little surprised by us, though. When we came in, Bill spoke German to her. And, like a lot of French citizens who live in that area, she spoke fluent German. It wasn’t until after we ate, and she asked if we wanted dessert, that she heard us speaking English. It turned out she spoke English, too, but she didn’t seem to know what language to use with us. I think she might have actually had Bill pegged as German! He does speak restaurant German pretty well, although I’m sure he has an American accent. But maybe it’s not as obvious to a French speaker. Or maybe I’m just humoring myself.

We did indulge in dessert and espresso. I had chocolate mousse, and Bill had creme brûlée, which was excellent, because it was very fresh. Bill said he liked that it didn’t taste like it had been sitting in a fridge for hours. I think the total bill for a sumptuous lunch with wine and dessert was about 70 euros. It was money well spent. We could have gotten out of there cheaper, though. The restaurant offers plates of the day (plats du jour) that are three courses for a low price.

After lunch, we drove up to the citadel to have a look around. It was closed, although that didn’t stop some people from walking around in it. According to a sign I saw, the citadel will reopen until December 11th on March 13th. We were just a little too early! Oh well. It really isn’t very far from where we live. Maybe we’ll visit again. The citadel is massive, so I know there would be many pictures taken during a proper visit. I did enjoy the views of Bitche from the hillside on which the citadel sits. It’s worth going up there for the views alone. There’s plenty of free parking, and a garden to explore.

After our afternoon visit to the citadel in Bitche, we went back to Sessenheim for a short pause before dinner in their much venerated Michelin starred restaurant. Since that meal involved several courses, and there are many photos, I will write about that in the next post.

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BeNeLux

Our pet friendly Belgian Labor Day Adventure… Part four

On Saturday morning, Bill and I woke up, had our croissants and coffee, and decided to take a short road trip.  Originally, I said I thought we should see what is in Rochefort, since that is where we had originally intended to go.  Rochefort is a mostly pleasant forty minute drive from Durbuy.  I loved watching the scenery, seeing the little signs for friteries, and passing small towns where excellent Belgian beers are made.

When we got to Rochefort, we found what appeared to be a nice looking town with very little parking.  They were setting up for a little fair, so it was hard to find a good place to land.  Since Rochefort was pretty quiet when we passed through it, I mentioned that I thought we should visit Dinant, which had been suggested by an obnoxious Italian friend of mine who happens to live on the border of Belgium and Germany.

Dinant was probably another forty minutes away, so we drove through some more pretty countryside.  I got a kick out of all the Belgian draft horses I saw grazing in impossibly green pastures.  I was very horse crazy as a kid and still hope to have horses again once we finally settle somewhere and stop renting.

We also drove past a strange sight.  It looked like some kind of Belgian military memorial service.  A whole lot of cars were parked on the side of the two lane road.  I also saw the blue flashing lights of a police car.  As we approached, we saw what appeared to be elderly men and women dressed in regalia that suggested some kind of military memorial.  A few of them gave us peevish looks as we passed.  Had we known that was going on, maybe we would have altered our route.

As a music lover, I am really happy we decided to visit Dinant.  Not only is it a charming town, it’s also the birthplace of Adolphe Sax, inventor of the saxophone!  I did not know this little fact before we visited Dinant, as I had not done any reading about the town.  What clued me in were all the references to saxophones in Dinant.  There are saxophones on a bridge that crosses the river Meuse, which runs through the town.  There are little brass “footsteps” through the main drag with the names of famous sax playing musicians inscribed on them.  There’s a park bench with a statue of Adolphe Sax sitting on it, and a museum, of course.

Dinant also has a fortress on a clifftop, river cruises, a gorgeous cathedral, and lots of restaurants!  Perhaps one of the coolest parts of our visit was driving through a massive rock formation called the Rocher Bayard.  Basically, it looks like a mountain split in two and just large enough for a car to drive through.  It’s said that the rock was split by the massive hoof of a giant horse named Bayard, who carried the four sons of Aymon on their flight from Charlemagne through the Ardennes.

We lucked into a parking spot in a free lot just before the main drag into town.  We parked the car and started walking through the city, which was bustling with people… many of whom were also walking dogs!

We stopped in a green area to have a look at a statue…

Check out these hard, sweet biscuits imprinted by moulds.  These confections are native to the city.  They’re called Couque de Dinant.  I did not know about these cookies before our arrival.  I just noticed them and thought they looked pretty cool.  Turns out, they are special to Dinant.

The first brass footprint I spotted… Glenn Miller!

Those who are so inclined can walk the stairs up to the Citadel of Dinant, which overlooks the city.  We didn’t do it because of the dogs and the fact that we’re old and pudgy.  I also saw a funicular available for those who would rather ride.

Part of Dinant’s massive and impressive cathedral.

Famous sax player John Coltraine’s footprint.

Adolphe Sax’s monument.  Now, every time I hear a song with a saxophone in it, I will say a silent thanks to Adolphe Sax of Dinant, Belgium.

Another sax monument.

The above pictures aren’t so good because of the construction.  If you look closely, you might be able to see the saxophones across the bridge.

 

It was about noon when we decided to stop for lunch.  We chose to sit outside at what looked like a small restaurant overlooking the river.  It turned out the restaurant had a large inside dining room and is pretty well known in Dinant for its mussels and frites.  The place was called Chez Bouboule Le Roi des Moules.  I didn’t sit down there thinking I wanted mussels, though I do enjoy them.  What I was looking for was a quiet spot for the dogs.  When we sat down at noon, that’s what the outside terrace was.  The waitress helpfully brought out a big bowl of water for the dogs.  It was much appreciated!

Bill peruses the menu.  We both decided to have moules with frites.

Bill got his with white wine and garlic…

I had mine prepared with the above beer.

Can’t forget the frites!

I poured the last third of the beer over the mussels…  Both of us were served mussels in small Le Creuset pots.  I managed to finish about two-thirds before I had to stop.  The dogs were loving the mussels, too.

 

By the time we finished lunch, Le Roi des Moules was packed with people.  Zane and Arran behaved beautifully, except when a Belgian Malinois walked past.  Zane had to tell us and the big dog what was what.

Almost finished!  Gasp!  For the longest time, Bill wouldn’t try mussels because he thought they were gross.  I finally got him to relent when we visited France the first time back in 2009.  He is now a fan.

More shots of the city.

These three shots are of Rocher Bayard.  Click the link for better shots.

 

Although Dinant was a bit bustling for us with our two pooches, it does appear to be a very dog friendly town.  There also seems to be a lot to do.  If we ever go back to Belgium with our dogs, I might have to look into finding a place close to this city and checking it out more closely.  The fact that it has such a tie to music is enough of a reason to go.

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