East Germany, Eastern Europe

Our Eastern European October… part thirteen

Our last full day in Dresden fell on what used to be known as Columbus Day. It was destined to be a drizzly day, but I wanted to go into the Frauenkirche and walk around the Der Zwinger, a palatial complex that now serves as a museum. Given the weather we had on October 12th, I wish we had gone into the museum, but I think we had kind of reached the end of our desire to be tourists.

We had a nice breakfast at the Moritz restaurant, with mimosas and Eggs Benedict. I remembered loving the egg dish during our first visit. It was pretty damned good the second time, too.

Bill and I had seen both the church and the museum on our visit in 2008. I remember when we went into the Frauenkirche, we also took the paid trip to the observation deck, which offers views of the Elbe River. Below is a picture from 2008.

I remember this to be a somewhat crowded activity in 2008…

The Frauenkirche is always worth a look, as it offers an example of the incredible restoration work done after the church was bombed by Allied forces during World War II. The fire caused by the bombing obliterated most of the church’s original structure. The church was reconstructed between 1994 and 2005, and opened to the public in 2005. It really is incredible what was done to resurrect the church to its former glory.

It’s interesting that I would be writing about the Frauenkirche today, as another German historic building was destroyed by fire on Friday night. The Kehlsteinhaus– popularly known as the Eagles’ Nest, and located in Berchtesgaden– was engulfed in flames and ruined. The Eagles’ Nest was built in 1938 and was meant to be a retreat for Nazi officials. It’s said that Adolf Hitler spent little time there, because he suffered from a fear of heights and enclosed spaces. In recent years, it was used as a cafe, which I happened to visit in June 2009. Below is a photo from my 2009 visit.

The Eagles’ Nest in June 2009. It was destroyed by fire over this weekend. On the day I visited, I was denied the beautiful views of the Bavarian Alps, thanks to the clouds.

The Eagles’ Nest will also be rebuilt, according to the news. I have every expectation that the work will be meticulously undertaken, and the cafe will be updated with state of the art equipment. Meanwhile, the person responsible for the fire has been arrested on charges of arson.

Anyway, we happened to visit the Frauenkirche just before a service. We considered staying for the service, but we were there 20 minutes too early, and didn’t feel like waiting. I managed to get some good pictures, though. The inside of this church is absolutely gorgeous!

Below are a couple of photos from 2008…

After we visited the church, and Bill lit a candle for his late father, we walked around to the Zwinger. When we visited in 2008, we had sunny skies. We had no such luck in 2026.

And here are a few photos from 2008… It blows my mind how few photos I took back then!

By the time we were finished walking through the Zwinger complex, it was raining. We decided it might be a good time to look for lunch. We ended up finding the Shamrock Irish Bar & Restaurant, which actually had pretty good food. It just needed some decent music. We passed a cool looking Italian market on the way there. If it hadn’t been raining, I would have definitely paid a visit.

After another leisurely lunch at the Shamrock Bar, we walked back toward the market square. On the way there, we passed the very East German looking Kulturpalast. I took a picture of it in 2008, when Tracy Chapman was due to perform… The locals decided to keep the mural, which dates from the 1960s, as a relic of Dresden’s East German history.

And then again in 2026… it hasn’t changed a bit on the outside, although it was renovated in 2017…

We stopped in a souvenir shop to pick up a few things, including a couple of signs for the house. While we were in there, we admired an East German Trabant car.

The two signs I purchased, I could have bought at any rest stop. But it always seems silly to buy souvenirs at a gas station. I bought a sign that reads “Biergarten”, which I put over the door to our backyard. The other sign reads “Fickt-Euch-Allee”… which I’m sure you can figure out. That one is in my office. 😈

After we bought a few things from the souvenir shop, we headed back to the guys who were selling prints of Dresden. I hadn’t really wanted prints as much as I wanted original art, but that was what was available to us. The vendor was curious about us, and wanted to know where we were from, and what we were doing in Dresden. He also wanted to see my signs, and laughed at the one that contained German profanity… We bought three of his prints, and they are currently being framed.

After we bought our prints, we went back to the hotel room for a short rest. Neither of us were very hungry after our big meal at the Shamrock. Nevertheless, we ventured out one more time, just as a political protest and counter protest got started. It started with the LGBTQ crowd…

They were protesting the far right political swing in Saxony, but their protest was pretty peaceful and mostly included music and signs about Nazis getting out.

Bill and I decided to have a light dinner at the Augustiner Biergarten. We sat outside, which gave us a view and the ability to hear the far right protesters, who marched in to a drum beat. As we had beer, bread, butter pretzels, and potato sausage soup, we listened to the energetic rantings of far right politicians. It was a bit eerie. I was also a bit irritated, because everyone around us was smoking cigarettes.

I’m sure you can guess which side of the debate Bill and I are on, but since we aren’t Germans, it’s not really our call. One thing I noticed during our first visit to Dresden, but not during our second visit, was the sign below. These people were forbidden to enter the premises of the restaurants, because of their behavior. I remember running into a couple of them during our 2008 visit. I have never seen another sign like this one, in all of my years in Germany. But I read that they aren’t actually uncommon.

Wonder where these folks are today…

Once we finished our light dinner, we went back to the hotel and called it a night. The next day, we were to head back to Wiesbaden. But we would run into something that would mess up our time at home since we returned. Read about that in my next post.

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booze tourism, Czechia, German lifestyle, German politics, Hessen

A late September wine stand in Breckenheim…

Greetings, blog readers. The weather in Germany is positively awesome right now. The sun has been shining, and it’s been warm, with the slightest chill in the air, signifying that autumn is well on the way.

Bill got home from his latest trip– a super short jaunt to Brno, in the Czech Republic. He was there for just two nights, and had to fly to Prague, and then drive 2.5 hours to Czechia’s second largest city. He didn’t get to see anything there, because he was staying on the outskirts, in a non-descript, unexciting area.

Then, he had to leave Brno at about 3:00 AM, to ensure that he’d make his return flight to Frankfurt yesterday. I think these business trips are getting very tiresome… but the work Bill does is important and interesting. Sometimes, it’s even fulfilling, or culturally enriching.

We’ll be leaving for our road trip to Eastern Europe on Thursday, and we have one stop in Czechia– Karlovy Vary (Carlsbad). One of the Czech officers Bill met on his most recent trip told him we should pay a visit to the Becherovka Museum in Karlovy Vary. I hadn’t even considered that, but now I think maybe we’ll try to do that. I do like that liqueur, and God knows, I enjoy booze tourism.

Last night, we had another wine stand, hosted by the SPD (Social Democratic Party of Germany). Our neighbor, Pete, who ran an unsuccessful campaign last year, was behind the grill cooking sausages. We said hello to him, and the friendly guy standing next to him, helping to man the grill.

I didn’t go to the previous wine stand, because it happened while Bill was in Budapest, and I was taking a break from drinking. Besides, since my German is Scheisse, people don’t really talk to me. However, when Bill and I are together we do get to talk to people. Such was the case last night.

We were first greeted by a guy we met over the summer, who has a lovely dog named Stella. I think she’s a sheltie or a miniature collie. Stella stayed home last night, but her master had a chat with us. We told him about our upcoming trip, and he told us he’s going to Norway for three weeks. That will be cool… LITERALLY!

He ate pizza and hung out with a couple of his other friends, while Bill and I partook of pork sausages. We don’t usually get the sausages at the wine stands, because they are served in rolls that don’t really fit them and are a little challenging to manage. But we didn’t have anything readily available for dinner, and I had kind of been craving a bratwurst.

They also had the beef sausages, which I had at a previous wine stand. The beef varieties are also good, but I think Bill and I both prefer the pork ones. And I tried the roll below, which was covered in poppy and sesame seeds. It was delicious. I could have just had that and been delighted. The sausages and bread were a bargain, at just nine euros!

I suspect our new friend probably likes to see us at the wine stands. I’m not naive, though. I’m sure part of the reason he likes us is because we always get there early, and usually, no one ever sits with us. So that means there’s almost always a place for him to sit and eat pizza with his buddies. 😁

After our dog loving friend left, we were greeted by Boris and Gaby, whose names I’ve finally memorized over years of hanging out at village events. This couple is older than we are by a couple of decades, and they don’t speak much English. But they are fun loving, friendly, and eager to communicate. I always enjoy seeing them, and with a little effort, we can chat.

I dare say it’s good practice for us and our German skills, and for them and their English skills. 😁 And it’s a valuable reminder to regular people that just because our POTUS is trying to alienate everyone, that doesn’t mean all Americans are in agreement.

Gaby and Boris brought a friend with them. She didn’t speak English, either, but she lit up when Bill told us we were going to Karlovy Vary. It turned out she was born there. Gaby was a little confused, but then her friend reminded her that Hitler had annexed that part of the Czech Republic, so when she was born, it was considered part of Germany. Again– it was called Carlsbad, back in the day.

We told their friend that we had been to Karlovy Vary before, but only for a day trip. In February 2009, we visited Chodava Plana, a little hamlet where Chodovar Beer is made. We were there to try out the spa at their Beer Wellness Land, which has really expanded in the 17 years since our last visit!

I would definitely be up for another trip there, especially since our visit was spoiled by Bill’s asshole ex boss and narcissistic war buddy, making contact with him to tell him that he’d “pulled strings” to get us moved out of Germany a year early. 🙄 At the time, I was really pissed off… but as you can see, we have more than made up for that lost year. And war buddy later got very publicly fired after abusing troops, and was forced to retire early. 🤭

I like to remind myself that people who are narcissistic assholes usually get exactly what they deserve, in the long run. The thought of that keeps me warm and helps me sleep at night.

We decided to leave when it got noticeably colder, and Bill and I both realized we needed to pee, and didn’t want to use the public WC. So we said goodnight to our local friends and headed home. Bill needed to go to bed after his very long day.

I’m not sure what we’ll do today. The weather is still beautiful. In earlier years, we might have gone out to enjoy it. Today, we’ll probably get some household chores done before we take our long anticipated trip east.

Wiesbaden is a real treat, though! I do enjoy living in this neighborhood. I think it’s my favorite of all of the places we’ve lived so far… and happily, at this point, it’s the place where we’ve lived the longest.

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