booze tourism, Czechia, German lifestyle, German politics, Hessen

A late September wine stand in Breckenheim…

Greetings, blog readers. The weather in Germany is positively awesome right now. The sun has been shining, and it’s been warm, with the slightest chill in the air, signifying that autumn is well on the way.

Bill got home from his latest trip– a super short jaunt to Brno, in the Czech Republic. He was there for just two nights, and had to fly to Prague, and then drive 2.5 hours to Czechia’s second largest city. He didn’t get to see anything there, because he was staying on the outskirts, in a non-descript, unexciting area.

Then, he had to leave Brno at about 3:00 AM, to ensure that he’d make his return flight to Frankfurt yesterday. I think these business trips are getting very tiresome… but the work Bill does is important and interesting. Sometimes, it’s even fulfilling, or culturally enriching.

We’ll be leaving for our road trip to Eastern Europe on Thursday, and we have one stop in Czechia– Karlovy Vary (Carlsbad). One of the Czech officers Bill met on his most recent trip told him we should pay a visit to the Becherovka Museum in Karlovy Vary. I hadn’t even considered that, but now I think maybe we’ll try to do that. I do like that liqueur, and God knows, I enjoy booze tourism.

Last night, we had another wine stand, hosted by the SPD (Social Democratic Party of Germany). Our neighbor, Pete, who ran an unsuccessful campaign last year, was behind the grill cooking sausages. We said hello to him, and the friendly guy standing next to him, helping to man the grill.

I didn’t go to the previous wine stand, because it happened while Bill was in Budapest, and I was taking a break from drinking. Besides, since my German is Scheisse, people don’t really talk to me. However, when Bill and I are together we do get to talk to people. Such was the case last night.

We were first greeted by a guy we met over the summer, who has a lovely dog named Stella. I think she’s a sheltie or a miniature collie. Stella stayed home last night, but her master had a chat with us. We told him about our upcoming trip, and he told us he’s going to Norway for three weeks. That will be cool… LITERALLY!

He ate pizza and hung out with a couple of his other friends, while Bill and I partook of pork sausages. We don’t usually get the sausages at the wine stands, because they are served in rolls that don’t really fit them and are a little challenging to manage. But we didn’t have anything readily available for dinner, and I had kind of been craving a bratwurst.

They also had the beef sausages, which I had at a previous wine stand. The beef varieties are also good, but I think Bill and I both prefer the pork ones. And I tried the roll below, which was covered in poppy and sesame seeds. It was delicious. I could have just had that and been delighted. The sausages and bread were a bargain, at just nine euros!

I suspect our new friend probably likes to see us at the wine stands. I’m not naive, though. I’m sure part of the reason he likes us is because we always get there early, and usually, no one ever sits with us. So that means there’s almost always a place for him to sit and eat pizza with his buddies. 😁

After our dog loving friend left, we were greeted by Boris and Gaby, whose names I’ve finally memorized over years of hanging out at village events. This couple is older than we are by a couple of decades, and they don’t speak much English. But they are fun loving, friendly, and eager to communicate. I always enjoy seeing them, and with a little effort, we can chat.

I dare say it’s good practice for us and our German skills, and for them and their English skills. 😁 And it’s a valuable reminder to regular people that just because our POTUS is trying to alienate everyone, that doesn’t mean all Americans are in agreement.

Gaby and Boris brought a friend with them. She didn’t speak English, either, but she lit up when Bill told us we were going to Karlovy Vary. It turned out she was born there. Gaby was a little confused, but then her friend reminded her that Hitler had annexed that part of the Czech Republic, so when she was born, it was considered part of Germany. Again– it was called Carlsbad, back in the day.

We told their friend that we had been to Karlovy Vary before, but only for a day trip. In February 2009, we visited Chodava Plana, a little hamlet where Chodovar Beer is made. We were there to try out the spa at their Beer Wellness Land, which has really expanded in the 17 years since our last visit!

I would definitely be up for another trip there, especially since our visit was spoiled by Bill’s asshole ex boss and narcissistic war buddy, making contact with him to tell him that he’d “pulled strings” to get us moved out of Germany a year early. 🙄 At the time, I was really pissed off… but as you can see, we have more than made up for that lost year. And war buddy later got very publicly fired after abusing troops, and was forced to retire early. 🤭

I like to remind myself that people who are narcissistic assholes usually get exactly what they deserve, in the long run. The thought of that keeps me warm and helps me sleep at night.

We decided to leave when it got noticeably colder, and Bill and I both realized we needed to pee, and didn’t want to use the public WC. So we said goodnight to our local friends and headed home. Bill needed to go to bed after his very long day.

I’m not sure what we’ll do today. The weather is still beautiful. In earlier years, we might have gone out to enjoy it. Today, we’ll probably get some household chores done before we take our long anticipated trip east.

Wiesbaden is a real treat, though! I do enjoy living in this neighborhood. I think it’s my favorite of all of the places we’ve lived so far… and happily, at this point, it’s the place where we’ve lived the longest.

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Czechia, East Germany, Eastern Europe, trip planning

Our fall vacation is now sorted and booked…

Today is the last day of the Rheingauer Weinwoche in downtown Wiesbaden. Bill and I are usually enthusiastic participants of that particular fest, which features lots of great food, entertainment, and thousands of wines.

But this year, we just haven’t felt like attending. We know what to expect there, because we’ve done it so many times in the past. It’s fun, but kind of “old hat”. Today, the weather is actually pretty nice. The sun is out, but it’s not super hot. I still didn’t feel like going, and Bill had to do some shopping at the commissary, anyway.

So I figured that since I’m not at the fest, awkwardly milling around, looking for a place to sit that won’t offend others… drinking wines that mostly taste the same… promising myself a hangover for tomorrow… I’ll just write about our upcoming fall vacation.

Bill has been working very hard at his job. He has a bunch of conferences coming up, some of which will take him out of town for days at a time. He’s going to Budapest again this year.

I went with him last year, but we decided I’d stay home this time. He’s got back to back conferences in Budapest, and the hotel he booked is in a less tourist oriented area. It does actually look like this year’s hotel might be better lodging than last year’s spot, even though it’s an Ibis. But it gets old trying to dodge the housekeepers, plus it’s no fun going to tourist spots alone, while Bill works.

Bill recently told his bosses that he really needs a vacation, so he arranged to take leave from October 1st until the 13th. Normally, we’d do a champagne bucket drawing to decide where we’d be going. However, this year, we both decided we wanted to do a road trip. I was particularly keen to visit Slovakia, because although we have technically been there, we’ve never done a proper stay there.

My first visit to Slovakia was in 1997, and I stayed in a university dormitory with friends. The second time I visited was a day trip to Bratislava from Vienna, back in 2015. I wanted to see a different part of the country, and maybe get some pretty photos of fall foliage. I also wanted to buy some art for the house, and have a nice rest in a spa.

Slovakia is not that close, if you’re going by car. That meant we had to decide where to stop on the way there and back. Initially, I thought I’d like to visit Gorlitz, which is a German border town where a lot of movies have been shot. I actually didn’t know that until I started looking for a good halfway point between Wiesbaden and the Tatra Mountains in Slovakia and southern Poland.

But as I was looking at Gorlitz, I realized that it’s really an underrated gem, and there’s a lot to see there. I also realized that I wanted to visit nearby Bautzen, too. And although we went to Dresden in 2008, I think we’re overdue for a visit there, again. I realized that hitting all of those spots would eat up precious time we didn’t have, and we wouldn’t get much “bang for the buck”. That area really demands a separate, more concentrated look.

I hadn’t originally thought of going to Czechia, since we’ve been there a bunch of times already… Valentine’s Day weekend 2009, we went to Chodova Plana and visited Beer Wellness Land, Chodovar. We had a great time, although that was when we learned we would be leaving Germany a year earlier than expected. 🤬

Anyway, after spending a couple of hours deliberating, I finally decided to look for a hotel in Karlovy Vary (also known as Karlsbad), a beautiful spa town in Czechia that is close to Chodovar. Bill and I did a day trip there in 2009, and I was impressed by how grand it was. It’s also where we met Nikolaj Korelov, the Russian artist who painted my favorite piece of art from our travels.

I actually wouldn’t have minded going to Chodovar again, and having a beer bath and a massage. They’ve really built up and expanded that place since 2009, and added a beautiful pool complex. The restaurants are nice– unless things have changed a lot. But I wanted to see more of Karlovy Vary and get some photos. I forgot to bring my camera on that 2009 trip, so I don’t have any good pictures from then. Karlovy Vary is a beautiful town. I’m sure in October, it’s a lot prettier than it is in February!

So, we will spend three nights in Karlovy Vary at Hotel Chateau Cilheny, a property located just outside of the city. There’s a train there, that will get us to Karlovy Vary in eight minutes. It’s also near a golf course (not that we play), and trails for walking.

After our stay in Czechia, we will move on to Slovakia, where I have booked three nights at panoraMic Mountain Residence, a self-catering apartment in Stary Smokovec, a touristy area in the Tatra Mountains. The apartment, which is our cheapest spot, gets rave reviews. That’s why I chose it over the much pricier Kempinski Hotel. I think we’ll enjoy it, because we’re mainly hoping for peace and quiet, forest views, and maybe some gentle hikes.

From Stary Smokovec, we will continue to Krakow, Poland, a city neither of us have yet visited. People have repeatedly recommended Krakow, although I had a hell of a time finding a hotel I liked. I finally settled on Kanonicza 22 another self-catering apartment located in the heart of the city. We will be parking at a nearby garage. This property has three apartments. We took the Duke Suite, which was the only one still available.

I picked Krakow because I heard it’s beautiful, but I also think we’ll try to visit Auschwitz-Birkenau, which is about an hour’s drive from Krakow. I know it will be a very somber, depressing experience visiting that museum, but I really think it’s important to go there and see it. I’ve read a lot about the Holocaust, but nothing beats actually going to the place where this terrible history occurred and seeing it firsthand.

I looked into staying in Oświęcim, where the museum is actually located, but again, had trouble finding a hotel I liked. And we did want to see Krakow itself. If it turns out we like the area, maybe we’ll go back… I thought about staying in Zakopane, too, but that’s in Poland, and I did want to stay in Slovakia, just to say I did.

After three nights in Krakow, we’ll move on to Dresden, and stay at Hotel Suitess, a lovely small luxury hotel we stayed in back in November 2008. I thought long and hard about booking the Kempinski there, too, but it was so much more expensive than the Suitess. We know where the Suitess is, and we know it has all we need. Why spend so much more for the most basic room at the Kempinski, when I can book us an upgraded room at the Suitess for so much less? Yes, the Kempinski has a pool and a sushi restaurant, but I’m not sure that’s worth several hundred euros more.

A few November 2008 era photos from our first Dresden trip.

I think this will be a great trip that will spawn plenty of memories. I hope to find some more art for the house, pick up some Chodovar beers and Il Santo water, and get lots of beautiful photos. If, for some reason, we aren’t able to get to Auschwitz, we’ll just come back… and maybe pair that with a trip to Gorlitze, Bautzen, and the surrounding area. I am still intrigued by those towns and want to do a trip that focuses time on that area. Hopefully, we’ll be able to do that before it’s time for us to leave Europe.

I will say this… we’ve been here so long, and done so many great trips. I feel very fortunate to be so spoiled for choices. And no matter what, we really can’t lose. We always have a great time, no matter where we go. But I did want to do something that doesn’t involve huge cities. I think I have succeeded in these plans. Wish us luck as I research things to do and places to dine. 😁

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