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Our pet friendly Belgian Labor Day Adventure… Part five

I’m going to combine the last two days of our trip into one final post.  The reason for that is because our Sunday plans got unexpectedly cancelled by driving rains!  Originally, we planned to either visit a French border town called Givet, or walk around Bastogne, which was another city that had been in the running for our Labor Day trip.

We tried Bastogne first, even though the skies were grey and looked like they might open up at any second.  Bastogne is well known among World War II historians.  Had we not had the dogs with us, I am pretty sure we could have seen some interesting museums.  It is where Liberty Road ends.

Unfortunately, Bastogne was not as inviting or dog friendly as Dinant was.  Since the weather was threatening, we decided not to stop and look around there.  So then we started heading toward Givet, which appeared to be a little more promising.  But as we were heading down the highway, the skies opened up and unloaded buckets of rain on us.  It showed no signs of letting up.  I told Bill that I thought it might be best to just go back to the chalet and have a quiet afternoon in.  He agreed and we headed back toward Barvaux.

Now… the next part of this story will not appeal to those with weak stomachs.  But, it was a memorable part of our trip, so I feel compelled to share it.  If you don’t like stories about body functions, now might be a good time to move on to your next Internet station.

Still with me?  Alright then…

As we were heading back to Barvaux, I started feeling an urgent call of nature.  The coffee, water, and orange juice I had at breakfast were ready to be expelled.  Of course, because I had been having an ongoing Facebook discussion with Europeans and Americans about public urination in Germany, Bill and I were sort of talking about that as we started hunting for a place for me to take care of business.  I spotted a sign for a rest stop with a WC, so we pulled off the road.  I noticed a man brazenly peeing right by the road, completely unashamed.  I must admit to having a brief moment of penis envy.

Anyway, I noticed that there were three port-a-potties in front of the dilapidated building.  I had a sense of doom, since I figured there had to be a reason those were sitting there in front of a rest stop.  Port-a-potties are usually not very pleasant places themselves, so I figured the rest stop must be especially bad.

I got out of the car and inspected… and was absolutely shocked by what I found.  The toilets in the Belgian rest stop were overflowing with shit, dirty paper, and assorted other filth.  There were vile epithets spray painted on the walls.  Of the four “rooms”, two had actual piles of excrement on the floor.  There were also piles of human shit outside of the rest stop, as if people had just gone behind the building once they saw how truly nasty it was.

I honestly couldn’t see how this rest stop could be rehabilitated.  I think they’d have to demolish the building.  It was that bad.  I briefly considered taking a photo for my Facebook friends who had been arguing about how gross German rest stops are.  Let me tell you, as a former Peace Corps Volunteer, I have seen and smelled some truly repulsive public restrooms.  This one in Belgium ranks right up there among the very worst.  It was the stuff of nightmares.

I should have thought about this as we visited the nasty rest stop.

I quickly took care of my needs and got back in the car to tell Bill about what I saw.  Ugh…  As an aside, as we were coming back the opposite way yesterday, I noticed that the rest stop on the other side of the road appeared to be very clean and functional.

We got back to the chalet in time for lunch and I slipped into my nightie and parked myself on the very comfortable sofa in the living room.  I wrapped myself in one of the very fluffy duvets and turned on the TV.  And then Bill and I spent the whole day watching a ridiculous show on MTV called Catfish.   I actually had to explain to Bill what catfishing is.  Given that we met online in the late 1990s, he probably feels like he dodged a bullet.

We had a nice lunch of rotisserie chicken and frites, which Bill managed to score fresh from a local snack bar.  We spent the day enjoying Belgian beer and chocolate.  It was restful and peaceful.  I think Bill especially enjoyed having the downtime.  The sun eventually did come out, but by the time it was out, we’d had a few beers and were neither in the mood nor condition to drive anywhere.  For dinner, we had what was left of the steaks Bill cooked on the barbecue the night before, along with more of the chicken from lunch.

Yesterday morning, we got up early and packed up our stuff.  The handyman showed up right on time to check us out.  He gave us back our 250 euros deposit and sent us on our way.  Bill stopped at the local chocolatier to get me a box of bon bons and some macaroons.

We decided to go back to Germany via France.  As it turned out, that was a pretty good idea.  I’m not sure if it was because of the time of day we were traveling or just that there’s less traffic on that route, but getting home was a lot easier and less stressful than getting to Belgium through Germany was.  We completely avoided Stuttgart traffic.

One thing I saw on our drive that sticks in my mind were highway safety signs in Luxembourg.  I saw two of them and they were obviously intended to shock.  Unfortunately, I wasn’t prepared to get photos of them, but if you click this link, you can see what I write of…  Basically, it’s a picture of a young, attractive woman driving a convertible.  The front of her face is a bloody skull.

Another thing that sticks in my mind is seeing how the landscape changed as we drove back into Germany on B28.  That drive from France is absolutely beautiful and I was thinking we need to book a vacation in that “spa” area in Bad Peterstal and Griesbach at some point.  It’s not that far from where we live, yet fairytale like.

Our biggest challenge of the ride back to Unterjettingen was in the last minutes of our trip.  We were stuck behind trucks for most of the drive back.  We’d lose one truck only to have another one get in front of us.  Compounding our issues is the fact that there’s a lot of major road construction going on near where we live.  So, at one point, Bill got distracted by the GPS and almost rear ended the truck in front of us, which had stopped suddenly to turn into a small rest area.  Then, as we were passing the truck, it started backing up and almost broad sided us.

Then, when we were maybe four kilometers from our home, we had to take a detour.  The GPS sent us through Moetzingen, but that area also has closed roads.  It took some time to figure out a way to get around the construction and back to our neighborhood.  But… we are back, healthy and sound, and ready to plan the next adventure.  I will write one more trip to sum up what we learned on our trip to Belgium!

Borders!

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Our trip to The Netherlands via Luxembourg… part 12

Yesterday, we decided to take things very easy.  Neither Bill nor I felt much like going back to Amsterdam, though we didn’t get to see much of the city.  I hope we’ll have another chance to visit before we leave Germany and I’ll be more in the mood to look around and see more than the Red Light district, sex shops, and coffee shops.  It’s a great city and there’s a lot to see and do there.

Bill enjoys coffee…

Sunday morning in Haarlem was very peaceful and quiet.  After breakfast, we took a walk over by the Basilica and watched people play with their dogs.  I saw one mom ride her bike past us with one child sitting on the handlebars and one standing up behind her.  None of them were wearing helmets, which I thought was kind of refreshing.  It’s the kind of thing my generation did.  Of course, if I were a mom, maybe I’d be horrified at the lack of safety consciousness.  I think I was just enjoying being in a really cute town in another country.

The basilica…

Electric cars are all the rage…  This is a Tesla.


I was tempted to go in here…

 

At about noon, we went to the Napoli Restaurant, which was very close to our hotel.  It was a really nice place for lunch.  We had a table right by the window, so I could people watch while we waited for our food.  Napoli has a pretty extensive menu and it was hard to choose a dish.  I ended up with cannelloni served Bolognese style.  Bill had ravioli made with truffles.  We started with a shared salad and finished with a piece of tiramisu and a “shake” made with lemon ice cream, vodka, and prosecco.  One thing that was really cool about this restaurant is that a lot of stuff is done table side.  We watched the waiter mix pasta in a giant wheel of cheese for the people next to us.  We watched him make my dessert, too.

Montepulciano for lunch…

Salad dressed tableside.

Cannelloni and ravioli…

The makings of my dessert.

Finished product…  the tiramisu was killer!

We picked up two more space cakes from a different guy at Willie Wortel’s Sinsemilla cannabis shop.  He was a lot crankier than the first guy was, but we were emboldened.  I noticed a whole lot of young folks in there smoking and watching car racing on TV.  The air was thick with pot smoke and we had to get out of there quickly.

We went back to the hotel because Bill had some school work to do.  I ate a second cake and basically spent the day relaxing.  The second space cake wasn’t all that powerful and did nothing but make me doze.

But after awhile, I was ready to scarf down a steak and fries.  I think it’s safe to say that marijuana makes me want to eat… even more than I regularly do.

   

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Dinner in Clervaux, Luxembourg at Hotel du Commerce…

Saturday night, after we checked in a Hotel du Commerce in Clervaux, Luxembourg, we were too tired to go searching for the perfect meal at a stand alone restaurant.  Since the chef had checked us in and obviously had a big stake in the hotel (as in he probably owns it), we decided to just eat there.  We were invited to choose a table in the pleasant dining room.  We picked one in the corner, where I hoped we wouldn’t be too conspicuous.  Clervaux doesn’t seem to attract a lot of Americans.

The menu was in French with no English translations, which was fine with me.  I don’t speak French, but I find that reading the menus helps me learn.  Bill overheard a male waiter advising a young female waitress to let him handle us.  He asked her if she spoke English and she gave him the “sort of” hand gesture.  It was pretty funny.

Bill enjoys a little sparkling water to go with the nice tannic red he picked out…

I started with a salmon and toast appetizer.  This was kind of expensive at 14 euros,  but I was wanting protein.  It came with some raw onion and capers.  I shared a lot of it with Bill, who opted for the soup of the day.  It was a delicate vegetable soup that was pureed into creaminess.  

I enjoyed duck breast with pommes and a delicate and slightly sweet sauce…

Bill had a veal cordon bleu with mushroom sauce.  I didn’t try it because mushrooms are of the devil.

For dessert, I had delicious chocolate mousse…

Bill had a molleux.  Based on the description listed in the menu, I told him I bet it would be a lava cake.  Lo and behold, I was right.  Lava cakes are also of the devil.  Just kidding.  This was a nice dessert, but everybody is doing lava cakes.  They are EVERYWHERE.  For that reason, I don’t like them.

We end with a lovely coffee…

I think our bill for this meal was about 139 euros.  I had a brain fart, got up, and went to the room without my purse, so our waiter kindly delivered it to me.  Good thing we were staying in the hotel.  We were only stared at by one person.  She probably wondered why I was taking photos of all the food.

I enjoyed our meal at the Hotel du Commerce.  I think the food is the star attraction, rather than the accommodations, which were plenty adequate, but not all that luxurious.  I’d eat there again and would stay again… if I could find a place to park.

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Our trip to The Netherlands via Luxembourg… part 1

Ordinarily, I write blog posts about my trips after I get home.  That’s because if I have to fly, I don’t usually take my laptop computer with me.  Since Bill and I drove from the Stuttgart area on this trip, I’m going to write my posts as I enjoy my time in Holland.  This is my first real experience in the country.  Before now, I had only seen Amsterdam’s impressive airport.

We left Germany at about 1:00pm on Saturday.  I had booked us a room in Clervaux, Luxembourg.  I actually meant to get us a room in Bastogne, Belgium and had plugged that location into Expedia.com.  I decided to go to Clervaux because the hotel where we stayed looked nice and was attractively priced.  For some reason, it popped up as a choice near Bastogne.

On the way to Herrenberg from our home, we came across a pink stretch limo… Don’t see these every day!

This isn’t the first time I meant to go to Belgium and ended up in Luxembourg.  Back in May 2012, Bill and I took our first military hop and ended up spending a few days in Trier, Germany.  We took a day trip to Luxembourg City, visiting again after having visited there for several nights in honor of my birthday in June 2009.

I’m not sure we meant to go back to Luxembourg City in 2012 because, although it’s very pretty, there isn’t that much to see there.  But we happened to end up there for the day, where we enjoyed a nice afternoon listening to a German high school band play live music in a gazebo and watching a drunk guy trying to conduct the teenagers while drinking a can of Carlsberg beer and staggering around the main square.  I eventually concluded that Luxembourg City is, if anything, a great place to people watch.

The next day during our visit in 2012, we ended up back in Luxembourg.  We went to Rodange.  We actually meant to visit Belgium or France, but made a wrong choice when we bought our train tickets.  It turned out to be a good choice, though, because although Rodange is a boring suburb, we had a wonderful lunch at a Portuguese restaurant and then ran into a hen party where we saw a woman wearing adult diapers and a rubber phallus on her nose.  The hen party ended up on our train with us, along with a couple of nuns and a few Japanese tourists who had no qualms about taking pictures.

This year’s trip to Luxembourg wasn’t as exciting as the one in 2012 was.  The GPS took us all the way up to Trier.  We couldn’t go the way the GPS wanted us to, because there were a number of detours.  Consequently, we drove on a lot of back roads populated by farm vehicles, bikers, and other frustrated drivers.  The back roads were pretty, but they took us through mountainous areas with lots of switchbacks.  Our drive was supposed to take about four hours but ended up taking over six.

We were going to stop for lunch at the truck stop in Pforzheim, but it was jam packed with people, to the point at which we would have had trouble finding a place to park.  We decided it wasn’t worth the hassle…  which, of course, made us “late” for lunch.  Being late for lunch means we have a lot fewer pickings to choose from and I am more likely to get “hangry”.

I took this as we passed through Saarland.  This was after we were in Kandel.  Had to get a shot of the horses.

On the way to Trier, we stopped in a town called Kandel, which is very close to the French border.  It’s a very cute town, but we stopped there because I needed food.  Every Saturday, it seems like Bill and I go somewhere and set off too late to catch regular lunch hours.  We end up having to find a place open past 2:00.  I get really cranky and annoyed when I get really hungry.  Fortunately, Bill is very patient.

We did eventually find a cute French style cafe that served soup, sandwiches, and salads.  We had salad for lunch, which probably wouldn’t have been my first choice.  It was healthy and tasted good, though, and helped me with my “hanger” problem.

Kandel is pretty cool…  I snapped a few photos during our brief stop.

Where we stopped for lunch… it was a God send…

 

Beer from Karlsruhe…

A very refreshing chicken salad.  Bill’s was the same, only made with tuna.  I thought the salad included kraut, but it was actually a celery salad.  Yummy and healthy!

 

If you’re ever in Kandel and need nourishment, this little cafe is a good place to go.  We also picked up a couple of eclairs for the road.  They have a nice bakery.

Once we got to Clervaux, I was immediately impressed with how beautiful it was.  The town is very close to the German border.  It’s also very close to the Belgian border.  It’s basically located in a valley and is surrounded by natural wooded beauty and a couple of very impressive churches.  I was a  little enchanted by it, until it came time to park.  Clervaux has a very serious parking problem.  Our hotel supposedly offered parking, but it was extremely limited.  We ended up having to park in a business parking lot that had a sign up that said “gratuit”.  We figured (correctly) that the car would be alright for a night there, since it was a Saturday.  I ended up just pulling out what I would need for one night rather than hauling all my stuff to the hotel room.

Hotel du Commerce in Clervaux is a nice three star accommodation.  It offers a good restaurant, bar, pool, and spa.  Unfortunately, there wasn’t enough time to really explore what the hotel offers because we didn’t check in until about 7:00pm.  By the time we arrived, the pool was closed and we were both tired and crabby.  Nevertheless, the place was cute enough.  We were checked in by a guy in a chef’s jacket; I’m guessing it’s his hotel and he’s the chef.  He and his kids are featured in a portrait in the hotel dining room.  They also have a big, sweet, friendly dog who came over to greet Bill and me.

Our no frills hotel room in Luxembourg.  It was a little over 100 euros a night and had a WC separated from the shower.

Tiny balcony…

View…

Seating.

And an old style TV that we never turned on.

 

Simple breakfast…

The room we stayed in was basic, save for the tiny balcony overlooking the little parking lot.  But it had everything we needed.  We enjoyed a very nice meal in the restaurant and went back to the room to crash until early Sunday morning.  After a quick breakfast, which was included in our rate, Bill and I were on the road to The Netherlands.

I wouldn’t mind going back to the Clervaux area.  It’s very beautiful there and I understand there is a nature park nearby.  It’s also close to some good beer.  Next time, I might choose to stay in a place with better parking or take a train in.  There is a severe shortage of parking in that little town.  We saw a lot of illegal parking and people lurking for spots.

Parking is less of a problem if you drive a motorcycle.

Look at that!  A phone booth!

Cool looking hotel near ours.

Charming little downtown area.

 

Chateaux…

 

Even a sports bar!

Love the public WC built into the wall.

Border of Germany and Luxembourg…

Beautiful hillside church in Clervaux.

As I was taking this photo, a older woman approached us… She spoke German first, then French.  At first I thought she was looking for a laundromat, but she actually wanted to find a wrestling match…  We were no help.

Belgian border…

 

I will post a separate review of our dinner at Hotel du Commerce.  It deserves its own post.

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Repost of my 2012 Space A trip report… Part three

Our very first military hop to Europe! Part 3… places we saw part 2

May 29, 2012 (Updated May 30, 2012)

The Bottom Line Luxembourg is more interesting than it seems…

Thursday

Early Thursday morning, Bill and I had a flight back to Cologne. At that point, we were still trying to figure out where we wanted to go next. I was thinking we’d like to go to the Rhine region. In 1997, I had spent a couple of nights in Bacharach, Germany, which I remembered as an adorable little town right on the river. But I also remembered there wasn’t a whole lot to the town. We finally decided we’d go to Trier, a town very close to the Luxembourg border. Luxembourg is very close to France and Belgium; Bill and I went there for my birthday in 2009. Trier also boasts the Porta Nigra (Black Gate), an ancient Roman gate that was built between 186 and 200 A.D.

I checked us into the Mercure, a chain hotel located directly across the street from the Porta Nigra. I was immediately happy about the price, which was much cheaper than the Kempinski. We took a train from the Cologne-Bonn airport to the main train station in Cologne. On the way there, a group of teenagers got on the train together. Just before they boarded, a couple of undercover ticket inspectors checked everyone’s tickets. Upon realizing that Bill and I are Americans, one of the inspectors exclaimed “Thank you! Americans!” Just what we needed. When he commented that other Americans had also been onboard, I dryly said “I don’t doubt it”, which made him laugh for some reason.

The inspectors were still in our car when the group of teens came onboard. One of the teens, a tall, dark-haired girl with bangs and a brazen attitude, seemed to be in charge of everything. She was the one who spoke first when the undercover ticket inspector busted them. The loudmouth inspector pounced on them, saying “Hallo! Fahrkarten bitte!”

Bill and I looked around and though neither of us is anywhere near fluent in German, we got the gist of what was going on. I chuckled as I noticed that all the folks were smelling the same BS we were smelling as the tall teen and her friends tried to talk their way out of trouble and failed miserably. We got off at the main station, along with the teens and the inspectors who had busted them. We had to wait about forty minutes for our train to Trier and those kids were still on the platform waiting when we left.

While we were waiting for our train, I noticed a handsome, well-built, dark haired guy standing nearby. He had a lot of gear, including a hat. I happened to peek when he opened his wallet and saw that he was a cop. The cop was wearing shorts and it looked like he had shaved his legs. He smiled broadly at me as I fussed with Bill, whose eyebrows had become unkempt.

The train to Trier was hot and crowded. We opened the windows and settled in for a long ride to the old city. Some of the places we passed looked very appealing. I almost wished we didn’t have a hotel reservation so we could get off! I was especially impressed by Gerolstein, a town that boasts some fabulous fizzy mineral water.

When we got to the hotel, Bill and I changed clothes. It had suddenly gotten very hot. We walked around Trier, enjoying the sight of the massive Roman gate. I imagine you can climb it if you want to, but I didn’t have the desire to. It was sad to see that some folks felt the gate was a good place to stash their trash.

Friday

On Friday, we got a train to Luxembourg. We had been there before and I didn’t remember thinking it was fabulous. Luxembourg is a beautiful country, but we made the mistake of staying in a hotel in the business and government district. Since we were coming for a day trip, we wandered around the center and ended up getting lunch at a nice restaurant by the center square.

A group of high school students from a town fifty kilometers from Munich had set up to play music in a gazebo. Bill and I happened to be there just in time for a three course meal which included wine, coffee, and a champagne apertif. We enjoyed the music, which was pretty good considering it mostly came from high school students. There was also a large, very drunk man careening around the area with a big can of beer in his hand. He had misbuttoned his shirt and looked like he’d been drinking for hours. Nevertheless, he seemed to be enjoying himself, talking to people in the crowd, dancing and conducting to the music, and generally just being a fool. He was as entertaining as the musicians were.

We went back to Trier for dinner at a Greek restaurant. I had been pining away for Greek food since we left Germany. I had dorada and Bill had gyros. Of course there was beer and ouzo, too.

Saturday morning

I was really hoping we’d get to go to Belgium or France on our last full day in Germany. We flipped a coin to see where to go and France won. Bill went to buy a ticket to France and somehow ended up with a ticket to a Luxembourg border town instead. I was disappointed when we got to our destination, Rodange, which appeared to be a very sleepy border town. Nevertheless, it was lunch time, so we went looking for food. After about fifteen minutes of walking, we spotted a church at the top of a hill. We figured that was where we might find good eats, so we walked up the hill and sure enough, there was a little bistro across the street.

A sign on the door read that there was a set menu- soup, cordon bleu, bread, and vanilla pudding for dessert. It looked good, so we went in and sat down. Elvis Presley played over the sound system. After a few minutes of waiting, a pleasant looking man came in and set placemats depicting Portugal in front of us. He told us he was from Portugal, a country that remains on my bucket list. Then he explained what they had to eat… a three course meal including soup, a main dish, and dessert.

Bill was worried he might not have enough euros on him to pay for the meal, which turned out to be very tasty. He visibly winced when I acquiesced to the host’s suggestion of coffee to go with our sweets. Imagine Bill’s delight when the bill came and it was just 28 euros for both of us! Bill was expecting it to be almost three times that much! The host explained that we were in the country, where prices are cheaper! The same place had a six course meal being offered that night for 33 euros a person. I bet it was amazing.

We left the restaurant feeling good and not so sad about being in a sleepy Luxembourg suburb. Just as we arrived at the train station to figure out where to go next, we ran into a group of people. It was mostly young women, though there were a couple guys as well. It looked like one of the women was older. Several of the people were wearing devil’s horns and/or wigs. One guy was dressed in drag, complete with a blond wig, lipstick, and a note written in French on his back that said “I love penises”. But he wasn’t even the most outrageous one. There was a lady wearing a housecoat and a rubber penis on her nose. If that wasn’t weird enough, at one point, she lifted her housecoat and revealed the diaper she was wearing underneath. Then she scratched herself for all to see.

We got on the train back to Luxembourg and the crew of dressed up Luxembourgers got in the same car. I immediately dubbed our ride the “crazy train”. These folks were gamely posing for pictures. In retrospect, I should have gotten some myself! I don’t know what they were celebrating… a marriage or birthday? Who knows!

We spent the rest of the day in Luxembourg, eventually encountering a group of fraternity guys who were all wearing t-shirts that showed a naked guy wearing shaving cream over his privates. After all that excitement, we needed to have some beer. We hit a local spot that served Diekirch Reserve, which we followed with glasses of champagne. Then we made our way back to Trier, where we had one last German meal consisting of asparagus, Hollandaise sauce, and pig… schnitzel for me, ham for Bill.

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