Sundays

Gasping my guts out on the way to Glaswaldsee…

Today was another beautiful day here in southern Germany.  Despite that, I gave some serious thought to staying in and being lazy.  Fortunately, Bill decided he wanted to go out and see something new.  It wasn’t too hard to convince me, since the sun was out and the temperatures were so agreeable.  Plus, there was a place I had in mind to see.

Last month, Bill and I visited the Bärenpark, which I had discovered on our February trip to the Dorotheenhütte (glass blowing factory) in Wolfach.  As we were leaving the bear park, I noticed a sign for a place called Glaswaldsee.  My rudimentary German skills told me that Glaswaldsee translates to glass forest lake.  That sounded interesting to me, so I did an Internet search and learned that the Glaswaldsee is a wild lake referred to as the “blue eye” in the central Northern Black Forest.

The Glaswaldsee is a “Karsee“, meaning that it’s a remnant from the last ice age.  These lakes formed when ice water could flow down a mountain side and collect on a flat surface.  The water formed a lake that is fed only by melting snow and rain.  During periods of drought, the lakes can dry up and become overgrown.  After the ice age, there were as many as 35 Karseen in the Northern Black Forest.  Now, there are only a few left, many of which are near Freudenstadt.  As luck would have it, we live relatively close to Freudenstadt.

We put the top down on the Mini and took off for the tiny spa hamlet of Bad Rippoldsau, since that was close to where we’d seen the sign.  Alternatively, we could have reached the lake via another spa town, Bad Peterstal-Griesbach.  On the way there, we stopped at a hotel in a really tiny village called Zwieselberg and had lunch at Hotel Hirsch… one of many Hotel Hirsches in the area.  We stopped there because we saw a sign that read they had non-stop food from noon until 9:00pm.  Just before I got out of the car, the strap on my new purse broke… the one I bought two months ago to replace the last purse I had whose strap broke.  I guess I should stop carrying so much crap with me.

Hotel Hirsch in tiny Zwieselberg welcomes you…

Bill looks relaxed in the empty restaurant…

It was really dead in the restaurant and super quiet, but soon some hikers came in.  The bartender, who seemed to have a rather stoic personality, turned on the TV to music videos.  The menu was limited and simple… it was mostly stuff like schnitzel, goulash, wurst, and salad.  Everything was super cheap, though…

I had red wurst with fries and salad.  Props to the Hotel Hirsch for bringing out a big ramekin of ketchup.  I was surprised they didn’t supply mustard, which also would have been welcome.

Bill had white wurst.

 

While we were eating, a guy came in and asked to turn the channel to sports.  He asked us in English if we minded.  We didn’t, actually, because the video that had just played was by a woman named Noah Cyrus.  The song was called “We Are Fucked”.  It always amazes me how much freer Germans are with English swear words… not that I mind the f-word, but that particular song was kind of depressing.  It was followed up by a song from Justin Bieber.  So yeah, turn the channel to football, please!

After we paid our twenty euro bill, we headed toward our final destination.  We found the road I had spotted during our last trip to the area.  It was narrow and rather primitive.  There were a couple of times when Bill was sporting white knuckles as he gripped the steering wheel.  We made one wrong turn and ended up at someone’s private abode.  Then we finally spotted a sign for a parking area for the Glaswaldsee.  After several more scary minutes ascending the primitive road, we reached the edge of the nature park where the lake is located.  Bill parked, paid for the 1,50 euro Parkschein (which is good all day), and noted that there’s also a zip line at that location.

I listened to the peaceful creek…

We took a look at the map…

 

Then it was a one kilometer walk to the lake…  however, that one kilometer hike was entirely uphill.  I got a bit winded, and I’m sure my hips and legs will complain tomorrow morning.  I was still able to walk up the gravelly road without too much trouble.  And when we reached the lake, we were rewarded…

A sandstone wall borders the lake.

It should be mentioned that swimming is not allowed at this lake.  I did see a couple of people wading in the water, including a little girl whose mother was taking pictures.  Personally, I thought the water looked more brown than blue, but it was definitely quiet and serene and I didn’t regret the challenging climb.  Needless to say, it’s not exactly stroller friendly.  I did see people with dogs, though.  There was no one official there to make sure people followed the rules.  Below are some photos I got before we headed back down the mountain.

Ducks live there.

There is a path that surrounds the lake.  It takes about twenty minutes or so to stroll around it.  There are other trails you can take, including one that goes to Bad Peterstal-Griesach.  I was glad we didn’t start from there, since the sign said it was 7.8 kilometers away on hilly terrain.  Those of you who are more fit than I am may find it a good place for a challenging hike.  

A long walk…

The path around the lake is pleasant.

Here’s a little hut and cookout area.  We saw a few people enjoying it today.  I did not notice any public restrooms here, but there are plenty of bushes for ducking behind…

A nice view down…

I snapped a picture of Bill as he was telling me about some guy he met in Iraq on a “vomit comet”.  Apparently, the guy was a jerk and warned Bill not to throw up.  Bill responded by grabbing a barf bag and threatening to use it.  My mild mannered husband is endlessly patient, but he has a snarky side, too.

 

The journey home was excellent.  Below are a few more photos of the lovely drive…  Yes, this area is a long way from downtown Stuttgart, but we wouldn’t trade living out this way for being closer to Bill’s work.  There’s so much to do in and around the Black Forest.  Lots of bikers, on bicycles and motorcycles, were also enjoying the views and the weather.

I’m really glad I noticed the sign for Glaswaldsee…  I don’t think it’s one of those places tourists usually find.  Glaswaldsee, by the way, is very close to the Bear Park.  You could easily combine the activities.

Really… if you live near the Black Forest, you owe it to yourself to get out and explore it.  The last time we lived here, we didn’t do nearly as many local activities.  We’re making up for that now, but not everyone gets to come back to Germany.  So, I urge you to make the most of your time here, however long or short it might be.  And if you feel up to it, maybe you should visit the Glaswaldsee.

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The walk from Hell to reach Heaven… Vintgar Gorge

The entrance to the Vintgar Gorge…

Thursday morning, Bill and I were looking for things to do and decided we wanted to visit Vintgar Gorge.  Although I am pretty sure I had read about or seen pictures of this marvelous natural attraction near Bled, I can’t say that I had made any solid plans to get there.  I happened to read up about it online the morning of our visit, loved the photos I saw, and suddenly decided I wanted to go.  I read in one TripAdvisor review that it was possible to walk there.  I mentioned that to Bill and he was all for walking, even though the review mentioned that parts of the walk weren’t easy because there were no sidewalks.  The comment about the lack of sidewalks should have given me a clue.

Anyway, like two idiots, we set off on our hike, thinking it would be a fairly short walk.  We neglected to carry water or sunscreen, though I did carry my purse and had put on some sunscreen before we started walking.  At first, the walk wasn’t too bad, though Bled is a pretty heavily trafficked town.  We dodged cyclists, trucks, and cars, but we were feeling fresh and energetic and I was buoyed by the idea of seeing some gorgeous scenery.

At one point, we came to a terribly tight area with really awful vehicular traffic and no sidewalks to speak of.  No matter if you were on your feet or on wheels, it was fairly dangerous negotiating the area.  I was beginning to think the walk was a bad idea, but then we made a right turn into a more residential area.  The horizon beckoned with looming snow capped mountains and expansive fields full of wildflowers.  We passed a stallion pacing about in a small pen and I explained to Bill how horses are gelded (I spent most of my childhood showing horses).  Then we started talking about more contentious subjects as we headed more and more into the country.  A few thoughts about when the walk was going to end started to creep into my consciousness as we kept marching.

After about an hour, I was seriously beginning to worry about our decision to walk to the gorge, but then I saw a sign that said it was only 1.5km away.  Feeling a second wind, I bore down into the walk uphill, even as I began to realize that I was sweaty and tired and not in fabulous shape.  It’s true we had no water and I didn’t see any stores where we could buy some fluids, but the spirit was somewhat willing even if the flesh was weak.

The signs were telling us to go down a country road that I hoped would take us to the gorge.  A group of cyclists passed us, then stopped.  We passed them and headed up yet another hill.  After about a half an hour, I saw another sign advertising the gorge… 1.5 km.  Some very salty four letter words escaped my lips.  How could we still be 1.5km away from the gorge after all that walking, mostly uphill?

As we were fuming over the sign that let us know that we’d apparently made no progress, the cyclists passed us again.  It turned out they were Irish.  One of the women said in a hilarious lilt, “You picked the right way to go!” as she panted and struggled to get the bike up the hill we were climbing.

I was about to get really upset when Bill noticed a store.  We went in there practically radiating heat as we searched for cold water.  All we found was cold beer… and the water was stored on a cabinet at room temperature.  Bill said, “There’s no cold water.  Only beer.”  He looked at me quizzically.  At that point, I was seriously getting pissed off, which depending on your viewpoint, is either hilarious or scary.

“Just get the fucking water.” I snarled, already way over the long walk in the heat.

Bill laughed, bought the water, and we went outside for a short rest.  I started telling him that the walk was a really stupid idea, especially since we neglected to bring any water.  He then asked me if I wanted to head back to Bled.

I stared at him in disbelief.  Then I thought about it for a moment, then said “No, let’s see if we can get there.  But I am NOT walking back.”

Bill wondered aloud how we’d get back to Bled and I said, “You will call a taxi.  You brought your phone, right?”

Bill laughed again and said he’d brought it and, unlike me, hadn’t used up all his roaming minutes.  We rounded a corner and I was starting to feel a little bit down when I suddenly heard the sound of rushing water!  Then, Bill noticed a sign for a town that we probably would have walked right through had we not accidentally taken the detour intended for cars.  I could see the river in the distance and, voila, there we were… at Vintgar Gorge!

We walked down the twisty hill to the gorge and the first thing Bill saw was a sign for a taxi service.  Clearly, we weren’t the first to decide we weren’t up to walking back to Bled after walking to the gorge.  Next to the sign for the taxi service, there was a very large gasthaus serving fresh trout all day.

We walked through the free parking lot and paid four euros each admission to the gorge.  Public toilets were a welcome sight, as well as picnic tables and refreshments.  We decided to walk the gorge before enjoying beer and ice cream.  I knew if I sat down, my muscles would stiffen up and it would take some doing to stand up again.

At the end of the 1.6 km walk, there is another ticket booth that offers refreshments, toilets, and a lovely view of a waterfall.  We sat there for an hour, ate ice cream, drank beer, and enjoyed the serene sights and sounds of rushing mountain water.

At the end of the Vintgar Gorge walk, there is also a trail that leads to another town where we could have caught a bus, but Bill said it looked too rugged for the likes of us.  In my exhausted state, I was inclined to agree.  We walked back the way we came, had some delicious fresh trout at the gasthaus, and then got the waiter to call us a cab back to Bled.  By day’s end, we’d walked well over ten miles.  Not bad for an almost 44 year old fatass housewife.

Here are some of the photos I took on our gorgeous walk to and along Vintgar Gorge.

This was a pretty stretch of road, despite all the trucks…

This is where I heard the water…

I got even more photos than I’m sharing in this post.  Vintgar Gorge really is very beautiful.  It was somewhat busy the day we walked it, which meant we shared the walk with a lot of people.  I would imagine on weekends and holidays, it’s a madhouse at the gorge.  I was so tempted to jump into the cold water.  I wished I’d worn a bathing suit, though I didn’t see anyone really wading on the walk itself.  Further down the river at the bottom of a waterfall, I saw what looked like local people setting up a camp and wearing Speedos.  Along the walk itself, it’s probably too dangerous because of the rapids, waterfalls, and deep pools.

Bill determines how we’re getting back to Bled as I sip a much appreciated beer.  The people sitting in front of us had a couple of dogs with them, one of which was a well behaved beagle.  She made me miss Zane and Arran. 

The mist from the waterfalls was so nice!  This walk can be wet and slippery, so wear good shoes with traction.

Lunch… I had brown trout and Bill had brook trout with garlic sauce.  Both were caught in the gorge and each cost about 13 euros.  They were very large fish.  For those who don’t like fish, there are a number of other choices available, everything from turkey to schnitzel.    

We also ran into another group of Irish cyclists who made us laugh as they described their adventures getting to the gorge.  I remembered that this trip was originally intended to be a trip to Ireland and smiled.  It must be a sign that our next big trip will be to Bill’s ancestral homeland.

If you get to Vintgar Gorge and want to have lunch, the restaurant is well worth a stop.  They have a wide variety of dishes and a very cool biergarten area.  The guy who waited on us was very friendly and hardworking and we definitely appreciated that he called us a cab.  WiFi is available there, but you have to pay for it.  Despite my Internet addiction, I didn’t bother.

I’m not sorry we walked to the gorge, though I probably wouldn’t choose to do it again.  If you’re reasonably fit and want to walk to Vintgar Gorge from Lake Bled, it’s certainly doable.  Just be sure to bring water and make sure you know your route.  Also, be prepared to dodge a lot of traffic.  I would not recommend walking to the gorge if you have young kids.  If we ever make it to this little slice of Slovenian Heaven again, it’ll be with wheels.  Our taxi ride back to Bled was 10 euros and worth every penny.

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SeaDream cruise day 2… Capri!

I woke up the first morning of our cruise with a hangover.  I drank way too much prosecco in the piano bar.  A Diet Coke from the minibar seemed to help chase away my headache as I headed up to the top of the yacht (TOY Bar) for some coffee and fresh pastries.  I had brought my new Nikon P330 camera with me, hoping to get some beautiful shots of the landscape as we headed toward Capri.  Unfortunately, I wore out my camera’s battery and neglected to bring my charger with me.  I ran back down to the room to get my backup camera, a Canon PowerShot that I purchased before our trip to Scotland last fall.  I had to use the Canon all day in Capri while my new camera was hooked up to my husband’s laptop, recharging.

My third set of SeaDream jammies…  

The waters around Capri are an absolutely enchanting deep blue.  If the weather had been a little warmer, I know I would have loved to have gone swimming in them.  SeaDream had offered an excursion to The Blue Grotto, a place where people can take boats into a cave and see even bluer water.  The swells were a little too rough the morning of our arrival, though, so the excursion was cancelled.  A local tender service provided transportation for SeaDream passengers to the cute little port area.

Beautiful water!

Cute little port town…

I was kind of preoccupied about finding another battery for my new camera.  A little shop near the port didn’t have any of the batteries I needed and the proprietor recommended going into the town to see if any of the photo shops had them.  For some reason, it didn’t occur to us to take the funicular up the hill to get to Anacapri.  We saw a sign with an arrow pointing to the center of the city and started climbing what turned out to be a seemingly endless path upwards.  To make matters worse, I was coming down with a cold.

This little shrine was on the way up the steep path…

We made the steep climb and I remember feeling hopeful when we got to the first road.  A friendly Italian couple who didn’t speak English to us laughed and pointed to the next segment of the path as I pantomimed exhaustion.  In all, it was about a thirty minute climb, which for my out of shape body was quite challenging.  On the other hand, I was pretty proud of myself once we reached the top.

Many steps…

There were lots of crowds in Capri and lots of very high end shops, though none of the photo shops had any camera batteries for me.  I was amused when we were passed by a couple of people driving “Twizys”, the same weird two seater vehicle our hotel offered in Rome.  The streets in Capri were so narrow that I could see how they would be popular there.

So many pretty views!

The town of Anacapri is adorable and Bill and I enjoyed the sunny and relatively cool weather for awhile as we strolled around the village.  At noon, Capri became a bit of a madhouse and we sought refuge in a little restaurant called Ristorante Isidoro when a charmingly zealous waiter beckoned us inside.  We climbed up three more flights of stairs to sit on a terrace, where we were completely alone for about twenty minutes.

 

The view from the restaurant’s terrace…

Another waiter, who seemed to claim the terrace as his own and bore a striking resemblance to British comedian Matt Lucas (of Little Britain),  served us a delightful lunch.  I had the catch of the day, which was very fresh white fish and homemade tape pasta.  Bill had langoustines.  We sipped white wine and watched the harried masses below as more patrons joined us.  It was a great way to refuel, even though that particular lunch was very expensive.  

Lunch!

After lunch, we walked back down the steep path and the muscles on the front of my thighs got a workout.  By the time we got to the bottom of the hill, I was really feeling fatigued as the cold virus progressed.

On the way back down…

We went back to the ship and I took a nap.  By dinnertime, I was firmly entrenched in a cold and kind of out of sorts.  That didn’t stop me from making Pierre laugh when he served me panna cotta.  The dessert was molded into a small mound and had a garnish that suggested a woman’s breast.  As he set the plate in front of me, I blurted out “That looks like a boob!”  Pierre had to take a moment to compose himself.

The yacht had also stopped at Positano for a couple of hours that evening and guests who wanted to go ashore had the opportunity.  I was too tired to consider it.  I’ve heard Positano is a beautiful place.  I hope we can visit sometime.

I skipped the piano bar because my nose was running and I was exhausted.  Looking back, I think Capri was one of my favorite stops on our cruise.  I would have really loved it if I hadn’t been getting sick… but on the bright side, at least by then, Aunt Flow had packed up and left.

Saw this little guy on the rock on the way back to the ship…

 
 
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