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Paul Simon or bust… Our Dublin getaway! Part four

After breakfast on Friday morning, Bill and I wondered what we should do.  We had big plans for the afternoon, of course.  The gates for our concert were to open at four o’clock sharp.  But we didn’t have anything in mind for Friday morning, other than wandering around this previously undiscovered part of Dublin and maybe drinking a pint or two.

These things were all over the city… everybody on board wears viking horns.  They are the Dublin Viking Splash tours.  We didn’t bother with them, but they appeared to be very popular.

As we walked toward St. Stephen’s Green, we happened to notice a very festive looking house that turned out to be The Little Museum of Dublin.  Coincidentally, I realized I needed to pee.  This is not the first time nature’s call has led me to interesting places.

A guided tour at The Little Museum of Dublin runs for 29 minutes and yes, they do have toilets.  Aside from that, the tour itself is very entertaining.  We happened to join the 10:30 tour, led by a very witty young lady named Fiona.  For ten euros a head (eight euros if you buy online), she told our group all about Dublin’s history.  Not only was she a very good public speaker, she was also pretty hysterical, which didn’t make my need to pee less urgent.

One of the rooms in The Little Museum of Dublin.

You could have a good time checking out all of the stuff in this room.

For the first time ever, I found myself making notes as I listened to a tour guide.  There were just too many funny quips to remember.  My nerdy husband, Bill, happened to be the only one in the group who had read all of James Joyce’s Ulysses.  This isn’t the first time Bill has been a prized pupil of Irish literature.  He annoyed a bunch of fellow cruisers on Hebridean Princess last fall by knowing more about Irish folk tales than our tour guide did.  He kind of puts me to shame, too, because I majored in English when I earned my bachelor’s degree, while Bill was an International Relations major.  However, Bill also has a lot of patience for stream of consciousness writing, which is probably why he’s my biggest fan.

Fiona, the fantastic and fearless Dublin expert.

Guinness: It gets you drunk.

Controversial photo…

I began taking notes when Fiona started telling us about Brendan Behan, a “drinker with writing problems” who is widely regarded as one of the greatest Irish writers of all time.  I continued taking notes as she talked about how things changed in Ireland during the 1970s, quipping that the “60s didn’t happen in Ireland until the 70s.”  Fiona introduced me to the wonders of “Monster Munch”, which is apparently a crappy Irish snack food shaped into “monster feet”.  The baked snack was immortalized by an artist named Caroline McCarthy who gold-plated them.  Basically, her statement was that Monster Munch looked and tasted great but was basically a bunch of crap.

Fiona also told us a funny story about Muhammad Ali’s visit to Ireland in 1972.  The man was known for his one liners and rhymes.  When he was onboard an Irish aircraft, he refused to put on his seatbelt.  He told the flight attendant, “Superman don’t need no seatbelt.”

Unimpressed, the Irish flight attendant shot back, “Yes, but Superman don’t need no aeroplane.”  Yet again, I was delighted by the quick wit of the Irish.  Fiona told us that the Irish had been laying claim to every U.S. president… except for the current one.  The mostly American group in her midst laughed.

Don’t use this gas mask!

We also learned that during World War II, Ireland remained neutral.  However, there was still a lot of danger due to the war, so citizens were provided gas masks.  The gas masks were, however, more dangerous than the air was.  Fiona told us that the masks were full of asbestos.  Other exhibits included entire rooms devoted to the Irish band U2 and the Irish Times, which Bill has proclaimed an excellent newspaper.

The place to learn about U2.

Toward the end of her presentation, Fiona asked us all to write reviews on TripAdvisor, but only if we intended to award five stars.  I routinely write reviews on TripAdvisor and would happily give her five stars and mean it.  We really enjoyed the tour and learned a lot.  And the big bonus was, I got to pee.  If you visit Dublin, I highly recommend visiting The Little Museum of Dublin.  It really does deserve all of the awards it’s won.

And the Irish Times!

You can’t go anywhere in Dublin and not run into at least one quote by Oscar Wilde.

Or other famous Irish writers…

Those boat/tour buses were everywhere!

The outside of the museum.

Which also has its own cafe!

After we visited the museum, we crossed the street and walked around St. Stephen’s Green, which is a very lovely park.  Unfortunately, I got distracted by Facebook because I had shared a news article about Donald Trump’s visit to London.  It so turned out that Paul Simon, James Taylor, and Bonnie Raitt were due to play in London on July 15th.  I didn’t know Trump would be in the UK this past weekend, but when I read about the protests there, I was really glad I opted for us to go to Dublin instead of London.  I’m sure London was even more of a zoo than usual.  Don’t get me wrong– I definitely love London and we’re long overdue for a visit, but I think Dublin was nicer.  I think there were four performers at the London show– Martha Reeves (of Martha and the Vandellas) was also playing– and the gates opened at 1:00pm for over 60,000 people.  I was exhausted enough after the Dublin show!

A Facebook friend of mine had come through Heathrow Airport the day prior.  She had gone to France on vacation and arrived in London’s biggest airport just in time for Trump’s visit.  My friend was my accompanist back when I studied voice in college.  Now, she is a piano professor at my alma mater.  Her husband is a great saxophonist who also teaches there.  In fact, he taught me sightreading.  She was congratulating me on scoring tickets to the big concert in Dublin and I was thanking God I opted for Ireland over England this time.

Anyway, I did manage to take photos of the park, which are shared below…

We did have clouds on Friday, but by the early evening, they were gone and the weather was perfect!

Interesting Catholic church.

One of Dublin’s famous residents.

And another.

One for the music lovers among us.

And more visitors to come.  I wouldn’t mind visiting again to see Graham Nash or even Rosanne Cash.

Boston College even has a branch in Dublin.

Soon, it was time for lunch.  We opted to stop by Chambers Pub and Cocktail Bar, an excellent watering hole very close to the Merrion Hotel.  We liked it so much we stopped there twice.  Our first time was for Friday’s lunch, where we enjoyed a marvelously local repast.  I knew I was going to like the place when we walked in and James Taylor’s “Carolina In My Mind” was playing…  A red haired and bearded barkeep came out to take our order and told us about his travels in Austin and San Antonio.  Since we lived in San Antonio before we moved to Germany, it was pretty cool to compare our experiences… or should I say it was “hot”?  Because hot is definitely one thing Texas is.

Bill decides on lunch.

He had fish pie, which included potatoes, shrimp, mussels, salmon, and the like, covered with mashed potatoes.  It was cool enough in Dublin on Friday that this was very nice.  I think I’d especially love it during the cold months, but it was fine on an unseasonably cool July day, too.

I went with seafood chowder, which was much the same as the fish pie minus the mashed potatoes.  It was delicious!  I grew up near the ocean, so I love seafood.  It was great to have it so fresh after years in Germany.

My chowder came with bread– Irish soda bread and a crusty baguette… and of course, Irish butter.

We decided to have dessert and we both had Irish coffees.

And Bill helped me with this blackberry, blueberry, apple crumble with vanilla ice cream.  I love crumbles!

I can’t resist taking pictures of public health signs in restrooms.

A shot of the bar.  It’s actually much larger than this.  We really liked Chambers’ Pub and Cocktail Bar.  If we get back to Dublin, we will have to stop in again.

Everything we had here was great!

Highly recommended!

 

As we were finishing up our lunch, two American guys sat next to us.  They were brothers from Ashburn, Virginia.  I know very well where that is, since I lived in Northern Virginia during two time periods of my life.  The guys had come to Ireland to celebrate a 50th birthday and see relatives.  They asked for recommendations, having just landed in Dublin that morning.  We told them to go see Fiona at The Little Museum of Dublin!  And we also told them to take a train to Kilkenny and visit the Smithwick’s Visitor’s Center.  Dublin is such a friendly place!  It’s impossible not to talk to people… even people from your own homeland!

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Celebrating 14 years in Ireland! Part five

Bill and I were still laughing about the boys on the train as we walked into Kilkenny, a town that appears to have recently exploded in population.  I was reminded of towns like Chapel Hill, North Carolina, which was once a rural place and eventually became very popular.  Kilkenny appeared to be  the kind of place that was very small for a very long time and then became busy.  As we headed for the the Smithwick’s Experience, I was surprised by how many people were there, trying to get around us and/or otherwise in a rush.  On the way to the beer museum, we decided to stop for lunch.  We ended up at a place called Petronella, which I spotted as we were passing an alcove.

One of my favorite bits of travel advice is to pay attention to alcoves.  It’s easy to find stuff if you’re on a main drag.  But I have found the best places are often tucked away, and Petronella turned out to be one of those places.  It was a bit of a hole in a wall, tucked away off the main road.  We arrived just in time for lunch.  Indeed, I think we were the first customers of the day.

Bill checks out the menu.

 

Kilkenny beer.

The first version of my lunch.  I tried to make it work by switching with Bill.

Our waitress directed us to the second floor and I took a seat by the window.  Right as I was noticing the piped in music on the sound system– mostly music from the 70s and 80s– a busker was warming up outside.  The busker was quite a talented guy who played guitar and sang, sounding a bit like Bob Dylan if Bob Dylan could actually sing (and this is no disrespect to Mr. Dylan’s overall talents as a musician.  He writes wonderful songs and plays guitar, but he is not a singer).

So, we came in and sat down… and I ordered a steak sandwich and Bill ordered the special of the day, which was a chili flavored tagliatelle.  I ordered a Kilkenny beer to go with my lunch, while Bill had a glass of cabernet.

The food came… and unfortunately, my steak sandwich, which was served open faced with fries and a fried egg on top, also came with mushrooms and onions.  No problem, Bill and I thought… We switched plates and I tried his dish…  It, too, was loaded with mushrooms.  So the waitress came up and I had to tell yet another person about my ridiculous mushroom hatred/phobia.

Bill called her over and said, “My wife can’t eat mushrooms.”

Bill’s lunch.  I tried to eat that instead, but the mushrooms were awful.  Otherwise, this was almost like a really nice chili mac.  It was quite good and I would have loved it minus the fungus.  

 

Rebooted steak sandwich.  The potato salad was surprisingly good.

The waitress was wonderful.  She quickly took the food away and had the chef make me another sandwich without ‘shrooms.  She brought me a clean sandwich sans egg, onions, and mushrooms.  Instead, it came with a surprisingly good potato salad.  I got to tell the waitress about why I hate mushrooms so much.  To make a long story short, I have a bit of a phobia.  Even as I told her how I knew how ridiculous this story sounded, she was patient and understanding.  And she also confessed feeling the same way about baked beans.  I like to think she appreciated that I told the truth, rather than tried to tell her I’m allergic.  The truth is, I am not allergic to mushrooms.  They just really freak me out in a bad way.

At one point, the piped in music was a song by Bruce Springsteen circa 1985.  The busker outside was playing a 90s Springsteen song.  Synchronicity!  (truthfully, it was a bit weird)

Petronella… in case you ever find yourself in Kilkenny.

After we had lunch, Bill and I went to the Smithwick’s Experience, which was very entertaining from the get go.  We entered the beer museum and were immediately greeted by a good hearted lady who said we could use the kiosks to pick up our tickets or just talk to her.  She immediately recognized my name, since I had just ordered tickets and got engraved glasses in honor of our anniversary.  The lady who did the engraving personally wrapped our glasses for us and wished us a good time in Ireland.

At 2:00, we had our tour, along with several other folks.  There were a couple of Irish folks on the tour, but the majority of us were Americans.  An adorable lady named Ide (pronounced Eee-dah) guided us through the museum, gave us the long history of the brewery, explained the process of beer making (which Bill and I know very well), and led our tasting.  Bill and I had a paddle tasting, which included several beers by Smithwick’s.  We ended up chatting with a couple from Ireland who were really friendly and wanted to talk about politics!

After the tour, we walked around the town, then headed to a bar.  We had to kill some time before our train, due to leave at around 7:00pm.  The first bar we went to seemed geared toward hen parties.  There were a couple of groups of younger women who were cackling over brews.  I finally got annoyed enough to tell Bill we needed to move on to the next place, a pub affiliated with a hotel.

We stopped into the pub, which had the soccer game between Austria and Ireland playing.  We sat down and started drinking local brews.  A bald guy working the bar came over to talk to us.  He was obviously a local and very cool.  After a couple of hours, I think we became friends.  And yes… there was more talk about Donald Trump.

Shots of Smithwick’s, which has a surprisingly long and interesting history in Kilkenny.  This tour was absolutely worth doing.  It was very personal and informative.

Shots of Kilkenny…

He told us to come back if we ever made it back to Kilkenny.  Somehow, I have the feeling he’ll still be there if we ever do make it back to Kilkenny.  He might even remember us!

We got to the train station about fifteen minutes before we left Kilkenny for Dublin.  More on that in part six.
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