Happy Boxing Day, everybody. Bill has gone off to work today, and I’m sitting here tying up loose ends from our Christmas celebration. It was actually a pretty good day for us. The weather was appropriately bitterly cold, so we got to light a fire, which we kept going for most of the day. We got lots of cool stuff, mostly for the kitchen. I got a new banjo, which was a bucket list item for me, ever since I was a child. Bill says there’s more stuff coming; unfortunately, he ordered from a place that is shipping from China. 😬
Our morning started off with Eggs Benedict, excellent Peet’s Big Bang coffee, and orange juice…
Yum! Or… at least I think so!
Then, after I started our fire going and turned on some Christmas music, we sat down to open the presents. As usual, I bought most of them, so Bill did most of the unwrapping. I got lots of photos of that…
We got some cool Italian designed kitchen and dining gadgets, several new cookbooks featuring cuisine from Turkey, the Baltic countries, and the Caucasus countries, a new coffeemaker and a new blender, tarot cards, glasses and glass drinking straws, and a couple of Jungian books for Bill… I got him two new Alpa sweaters from Finland, and sweater soap, a new pen and Moleskine writing pad, a new bread knife, Chemex carafe, and mixing bowls, bags for the sous vide, food storage containers, and ginger jam… Charlie was there to supervise, while Noyzi stayed in his “room” upstairs.
This is a really interesting looking book about our favorite chocolatier!
And then came the most exciting gift of all…
Bill ordered a bluegrass banjo from Ireland. It came from McNeela, the same company that made the bodhran drum Bill got me last year at Christmas. I am very impressed with the quality. It was a lot heavier than I was expecting it to be, which is why Bill is holding it in the photo! I’ve always been fascinated by banjos, and have always wanted to learn how to play one… So we’ll see how it goes. I’m still working on my guitar(s), after all!
I had to do a little rearranging of my “studio” to accommodate the new banjo. And now I have space for two more instruments!
Below are a couple more photos of noteworthy Christmas gifts. I was particularly amused by the Eggsecutor, a handy device used to open boiled eggs. I loved the witty description of it on the box! Bill said it was kind of like a guillotine for eggs!
An amusing read!I bought a set of these tumblers and glass straws from a German company.
All in all, it was a pleasant holiday celebration for us… and I managed to capture a few moments on video…
My laugh is annoying… sorry! Maybe my mother-in-law will watch this.
And then for dinner, Bill cooked duck legs, roasted potatoes, and green beans, fresh baked bread, Italian red wine, and brownies and ice cream for dessert…
Man… how did I get so lucky? My husband is an absolute KEEPER. He’s a great cook and bartender, and a wonderful lover and friend!
Below is a photo of this morning’s breakfast. Bill made the bread, and “eggsecuted” the egg with our new gadget! At the end of the above video, you can see how it works!
We’ve got one more week to go before this annus horribilus is finally over… But I am grateful that I get to spend this time with my dearest friend and husband, Bill, who always makes me smile and lets me live life in high style. 😘
I hope those of you who have taken the time to read this also had a great holiday! Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to you all!
Here’s a video about our train trip from Dublin to Kilkenny, back in November 2016. We met a group of hilarious Irish lads who kept us in stitches during our ride to see the Smithwick’s Brewery. I hope someday we can enjoy another fun filled trip to Ireland, even if the lads advised us how “awful” Ireland is.
These kids gave us the best kind of souvenir from Ireland!
New Year’s 2024-25 has come and gone, and now it’s back to the grind. We had a pretty boring holiday. It was the usual drinking of beer and wine, listening to music, eating too much… basically like every day at our house, except there were fireworks and Christmas trees. But I did take some photos and videos, which I will dutifully share here for the interested. Here’s a video of the scene when the clock struck midnight.
Crazy! This wasn’t even all of the footage I got.
On New Year’s Eve, we had quesadillas, mainly because we both ate heavy leftovers for lunch and weren’t very hungry. And, as usual, there were lots of people outside in the frigid weather, setting off the fireworks they’re only allowed to use at New Year’s. I tried out my new camera, which wasn’t that great at catching the fireworks. I need to play with the settings a bit.
I think we got to bed at about 2:00 AM or so… then we slept in until about 9. It was cold, but sunny… unlike this morning, which is cold and rainy. Bill cooked a lovely New Year’s Day dinner. He used the sous vide to cook prime rib, baked some potatoes and cloverleaf rolls, and, of course, served black-eyed peas and green beans.
I couldn’t finish this.
One other thing that happened is Charlie finally got up on the bench. If you know us, you know that Arran and Zane, our beagles, used to get on the bench with us all the time. Charlie has been wanting to get up there, too. I finally gave him a boost. Now, we have a monster. It’s like Charlie won’t do anything like that on his own until we give him “permission”. Then, once he has “permission”, he takes the initiative.
Below is a video of their budding bromance… I swear, I think Arran is lurking in Charlie’s soul.
Charlie has turned into a cuddler.
I’m usually relieved when the holidays end. This year, I’m pretty nervous about what the future holds. But at least we had relatively pleasant 2024 holidays. There was no drama. And Bill’s last present to me arrived the other day. He bought me a Bodhran drum from a shop in Ireland, which I’m sure I’ll be beating on a lot, as things get weirder. It’s always nice to have new musical instruments!
Happy New Year, everyone. Hope it turns out okay for all of us.
Happy Saturday, blog fans. I usually try to update my travel blog on the weekends with reports on restaurants, fun activities, or travel. This weekend, Bill is recovering from two back to back TDYs, some kind of respiratory infection that isn’t COVID, and irritable bowel syndrome. He is out shopping for food right now, but I have my doubts that we’re going to get out and about today.
Although we have lovely fall weather, we’re both kind of tired… Bill from sickness, and me from tending to Arran all week and repeatedly getting up in the middle of the night. Arran is doing okay today, except for his rancid, atomic farts, and being a little sleepy from his chemo. He did get a chemo pill today, as well as Prednisolone; the Endoxan pill makes him want to snooze. And two days post Vincristine infusion is also when the side effects tend to kick in. He was a little low energy this morning, and threw up a little of his food.
This is actually kind of a bummer, though. I’d rather Arran not be dealing with side effects on Saturday, which is the one day Bill and I can go anywhere and things will be open. Maybe we should try to change the day of the infusions. We’ll have to do that anyway, if Arran is still with us next month. We still have plans to visit France, starting on Wednesday, the 16th, which is our anniversary.
But maybe it’s not so bad that we aren’t going out today. I’ve been wanting to write another post about some of my favorite European luxury hotels. We’ve been to some good ones since the last time I did one of these posts, in February 2017. Our fortunes have improved since that time, five years ago, when I wrote about our favorite luxury digs. These aren’t necessarily ranked in order, nor are they even my favorite lodgings of all time. They’re just luxurious European places we really enjoyed and haven’t forgotten. So here’s another post about some of my favorite hotels when we want to drop a load of euros. Here goes.
From the very first moment, we were impressed… until we ate in the restaurant and our waiter sold us 40 CHF glasses of Cristal Champagne, and waved a truffle under my nose!
Bill and I stayed at this five star hotel in Vevey, Switzerland in December 2015. I went with him on a business trip to Vicenza, Italy, and we decided to stop in Switzerland on the way home, so Bill could visit the Giger Museum in Gruyeres. I noticed the Grand Hotel du Lac the first time we lived in Germany, but in those days, our finances made it impossible to book such a place. Switzerland is expensive no matter what, but a five star hotel there is quite a splurge. Still, I decided to go for it, and even sprang for a lake view, as the hotel is right next to Lake Geneva. The lake view was a waste of money, though, because there was fog the whole time we were there during waking hours. The one full day we were in the area, we spent in Gruyeres. Still, the hotel is absolutely beautiful and comfortable, and I remember our stay there fondly– with exception to our experience in the restaurant, which was not as impressive. Vevey is a pretty town, too. I’d love to go back! And I would definitely stay in this hotel… though I might go elsewhere for dinner.
Merrion Hotel is wonderful! And it’s close to lots of authentic Irish pubs, too…
In 2018, I whimsically bought tickets to see a bunch of concerts, one of which was in Dublin, Ireland, and featured Paul Simon, James Taylor, and Bonnie Raitt. Yeah, that was a great show, and it lasted about six hours! We obviously needed good digs, so we could get proper rest. I decided to book Merrion Hotel, which is supposedly Dublin’s best… or, at least it was when we were there in 2018. Anyway, we didn’t have an upgraded room, but the room we had was nice enough. Bonus was that they gave us lots of chocolate– like three huge bars of it– milk, dark, and white. I remember loving the breakfasts at this hotel, which were cooked to order and absolutely amazing. Plus, there was a beautiful pool area, and top notch service. Highly recommended!
This was a very tastefully decorated and comfortable room. The owner of the hotel obviously takes great pains to make her hotel special.
In June 2021, Bill and I decided to pay a visit to Heidelberg, Germany, a city not that far from where we currently live. At the time, COVID-19 cases, and the restrictions that accompanied the pandemic, were in full swing. We decided we wanted to stick close to home. I booked a few nights at Europäische Hof Heidelberg, a beautiful five star hotel with a long history and high service standards. The hotel has been family run for generations, and the attention to detail and care for guests are obvious. The owner of the hotel was very attentive and visible during our visit. Afterwards, when I wrote a review on TripAdvisor, she responded personally, and even sent me an email. We had a gorgeous, comfortable room, and the location was very convenient to the downtown area. I still get email offers from this hotel, and I’d love to go back sometime. Yes, it’s expensive, but it’s not a rip off.
The view from our patio. What a beautiful place! I could stare at those mountains all day!
Bill and I visited Vaduz, Liechtenstein in May 2022, on our way home from a trip to Italy to taste wines. Originally, I had planned to stop in Lugano, Switzerland, but determined that Lugano wasn’t close enough to home. We had visited Liechtenstein once, back in 2009, and I thought it might be interested to visit the tiny country one more time. When I saw that it had a very highly regarded hotel with beautiful views, I was definitely onboard with booking. We had a lovely time in Vaduz, and delighted in tasting even more wines there! Park Hotel Sonnenhof is a very restful hotel with an excellent restaurant. It’s great for a splurge.
If you are a regular reader of my blog, you might know that Bill and I only recently stayed at the Hotel Bareiss in Baiersbronn, Germany. It’s probably the most expensive hotel we’ve ever stayed at, but it’s important to remember that the price of the room includes breakfast and dinner, as well as an afternoon cake buffet. At this hotel, food is front and center, but it also offers classic, quaint Black Forest inspired rooms, a petting zoo, daily activities, walking trails, several restaurants, and a first class pool and spa area. I LOVED the pool and spa areas, actually. We were there at a great time to enjoy them, too, because it wasn’t crowded at all! I wish we’d had a chance to try the a la carte restaurants, because the items that we had that weren’t part of the board menu were truly very special. Service is also outstanding at this hotel! Baiersbronn is a great town for foodies, as there are quite a few exquisite Michelin starred restaurants there. It’s also a fine place for hikers, especially if they want to see waterfalls.
Coolest pool ever! This is jutting out from the building on the 18th floor, and has a glass bottom.
In late June 2019, Bill and I went to Gothenburg, Sweden to pick up our brand new Volvo at the Volvo factory. Although we could have stayed at a hotel chosen by Volvo, I wanted to go to the Upper House, a hotel in Gothia Towers. Why? Because of the pool. It juts out from the side of the building on the 18th floor! Also, the hotel is very swanky and beautiful, and offers beautiful views of the amusement park next door. Bill and I both loved the breakfasts, which were very unusual and cooked to order with fresh ingredients. If you’re going to Gothenburg and looking for something special, The Upper House is a good bet. The spa area is dreamy, but so is the bar… and I distinctly remember loving the bed. I wish I’d thought to find out where the mattress came from. That was a pretty epic trip. We combined it with stops in Copenhagen, Rostock, and Leipzig, and saw Mark Knopfler, both in concert, and at the bar in the Leipzig hotel where we were staying!
The pastries alone were worth the trip! The room was nice, too!
In March 2022, we had to go see our dentist in Stuttgart. At that time, COVID-19 rules were in full effect in Germany, and things were feeling a bit dystopian. We decided we wanted to get out of Germany for a few days, so I looked for a place just over the border. That’s when I discovered tiny Sessenheim, a little village near Soufflenheim, where a lot of French pottery is made. Sessenheim boasts a marvelous Michelin starred restaurant called Auberge au Boeuf, which also has four rooms to rent. This isn’t a big hotel, but the room we stayed in was the only one I have ever stayed in my lifetime that had its very own private sauna. It also had a jacuzzi bath. But the most impressive and memorable part of our stay at this hotel was the breakfast, which included the most delicious pastries I’ve ever had! They were obviously made on site, and served on special pottery that appeared to be locally made. Breakfast also included cheeses, smoked fish, cold cuts, and a variety of other goodies, all of which were brought to us. No breakfast buffet!
Beautiful pool area. There are also great spa facilities on the ground floor.
If you ever feel the need to feel “safe”, Hotel Oberwaid is a good bet. This hotel, located within sight of Lake Konstanz, is also a health sanitorium. There are physicians on staff for people who go there for health reasons, but it’s also a very comfortable hotel. From June until December, children are not allowed at the hotel, so it’s a very restful, adult oriented place. The restaurant serves excellent local cuisine, and there’s a fantastic pool and spa area. What I loved most about this hotel, though, was that they went to great lengths to make guests comfortable. After four nights at a noisy resort in Italy, I was definitely in the mood for a peaceful, quiet couple of nights at a place that was climate controlled and had good beds. Hotel Oberwaid had that, but it was also a very classy place. I can see why people go there for their health, even though I didn’t feel like I was staying in a hospital. The focus is on health and wellness, but in a comfortable, visually appealing setting. I’d like to go back sometime, if the fates allow.
This is the hotel Bill chose for us when I turned 50 in June. It’s not the most luxurious of the properties where we’ve stayed. It doesn’t have a spa or a pool. However, it is beautifully and stylishly furnished, and offers every comfort, and it’s very convenient to downtown Antwerp. What I loved most about it was the service, which was very warm, personal, and professional. They brought out a beautiful strawberry tart and some fizz for my birthday morning, and we stayed in the funkiest room I’ve ever seen. I like this hotel because it’s so hospitable; we were so pleased with everything! One caveat I would mention is that if you have mobility issues, you might want to call the hotel for advice on which rooms are best. Our room required climbing a couple of flights of stairs. The other side of the hotel has elevator access for that part. The featured photo is of the hotel’s iconic red front door!
In November 2018, Bill and I celebrated our 16th wedding anniversary. We were also preparing to move to Wiesbaden from the Stuttgart area, in what would turn out to be a very stressful relocation, particularly considering that we were moving within Germany. I wanted to find us a really beautiful place to spend our anniversary, and I found it in Brenner’s Park. One of my former professors from Longwood University recommended this hotel, calling it “a little slice of Heaven”. Indeed, that’s what we found when we got there, especially since they upgraded us from a deluxe room to a junior suite… and that room was palatial! Brenner’s Park has a resident cat named Kleopatra, a fantastic spa, beautiful pool area, delicious food, and a classy bar. I would LOVE to go back there, even though it’s not very far from where we live now. Maybe on a future dentist excursion, we’ll book Brenner’s Park… but I don’t know if we can spring for a junior suite, and it’ll be hard to downgrade after staying in one. In a word… WOW.
I won’t deny it. Bill and I have been living a pretty sweet life over here… and I am very grateful we’ve had these opportunities to enjoy some of Europe’s loveliest hotels. I hope we can visit a few more before it’s time to retire and settle somewhere permanent. For now, we’re going to keep splurging for as long as we can. You only live once!
If you’re curious about any of these places and want more details of our visits, be sure to search the blog. I have done extensive review series of each place listed in this post!
Today, I received a package I had been eagerly awaiting. It came from County Clare, Ireland, and was decorated with stamps and stickers. The lady, name of Anne, who had sent me my order from Luka Bloom, had drawn little musical notes next to my name, which she had written in cursive that looked a lot like my own… especially after I’ve had a couple of beers.
The mailman asked me in German if we didn’t have a post office box. He was a young lad and I hadn’t seen him before. He’d also caught me off guard when he spoke German to me and I was standing there in a nightie with no bra on. I responded in English and he understood, just at about the time that I mentally translated what he’d said. No matter, since I wouldn’t have been able to speak German back to him. Isn’t it cool that my Irish music got to me on St. Patrick’s Day? Especially since I wrote to Anne to ask her to send it to Germany, even though I have a U.S. billing address and there was no way to add a different delivery address in their order form. It was no problem to make the change– and if I hadn’t, God only knows when the APO would have sent it to me.
So who is Luka Bloom (born Kevin Barry Moore)? He’s a fantastic indie folk musician and the brother of Christy Moore, another great indie folk musician. I was introduced to Christy Moore by an honest to God Irishman with whom I used to work at a Presbyterian church camp in Virginia. Funny thing is, my Irish friend, who lived near Belfast and most definitely not a Brit, was a Catholic. He ended up marrying one of the other counselors, a lovely Black woman from Stafford, Virginia. They have been together now for over twenty-five years and have six or seven children… I’ve lost count!
My Irish friend sent me a mix tape when I lived in Armenia and it had some of Christy Moore’s music on it. I liked it so much that when I got back to the States, I sought it out and stocked up my music collection.
Anyway, Christy Moore recently plugged his brother’s latest album, Out of the Blue. I am more familiar with Christy Moore’s music, so I decided to pre-order the new album, as well as a couple of others that looked interesting. As I’ve gotten older, I often find myself drunken downloading music or buying CDs from street musicians others I don’t know well. I’m very seldom disappointed in the results, but then I have very eclectic musical tastes. Luka Bloom’s new album, by the way, can be downloaded. I decided to get a CD because he was signing them. I also bought a CD that I couldn’t download, and another came with a download I got from the site.
Other than listening to my new CDs, I have no other special plans for today. I might not even have any whiskey or beer, because I’ve kind of been enjoying letting my body go booze free. I’m hoping Bill will be home sometime between tomorrow night and Friday night. After that, I suspect my teetotaling will conclude. I haven’t been totally faithful to the wagon during this latest marathon TDY, but I have found that I’ve not really wanted to drink alcohol so much… which is a relief, given my colorful family history.
I’ve found that I like Luka Bloom as much as I do his brother. Right now, I’m typing this and listening to one of the albums I bought, remembering when Bill and I took our cruise from Scotland to Northern Ireland with a stop in Carlingford, which is in the Republic of Ireland.
It turned out Dermott was Irish, but was born and raised in Newry, on the northern side of the border. He spoke of how in the 80s, the border checks were brutal. Guards would literally take cars apart, looking for bombs and contraband. Then he said he hoped one day Ireland would be reunited– it became clear that Dermott had Nationalist leanings. That got a rather disgruntled reaction from the elderly Brits who were on the cruise. Bill and I had no real skin in the game, except for our own Irish heritage. Turns out that other than the Irish surname I got from Bill when we married, I am actually more Irish than he is.
Then, Bill proceeded to annoy the Brits, who just wanted to get away from Dermott (I got the sense they thought he was an ingrate). Dermott was talking about Irish folk tales. Bill happens to love Irish literature and actually studied it in college. And then it seemed that he knew more about it than the guide did… The guide had heard the stories from his father, while Bill had studied it at American University and written papers on it… I got the sense that the other cruisers were irritated with both of them by the time that excursion. Luckily, there was a lot of booze on the boat.
Bill and I have been to Ireland a couple of other times. We went in 2016 for our 14th anniversary. One of my funniest memories from that trip was running into a bunch of 12 year old boys on a crowded train to Kilkenny, where we were going to tour the Smithwick’s Brewery. The kids were hilariously witty. When they found out Bill had been to Iraq and we were from America, they asked all kids of cheeky questions. The poor beleaguered “den mom” who was with them kept giving the look. But I swear, we about died laughing when one of the kids said, “Nobody vacations in Ireland! It’s AWFUL!” Then, a few minutes later, he asked us if we considered Canada our “goody two shoes neighbor to the north.”
The third time we went was to Dublin, to attend a marathon concert featuring Paul Simon, James Taylor, and Bonnie Raitt. The six hour concert, in and of itself, was reason enough to love our visit. But we also stayed in a fabulous hotel– the Merrion– and we had high tea. It was a marvelous time. I really miss travel… especially carefree travel. Here’s hoping that COVID-19 will be arrested soon, so we can go back to Ireland and raise a pint with those lads who were on the way to Kilkenny, who are now closer to 18. Seems like whenever we go to Ireland, we make at least one new friend and many new wonderful memories. At the very least, I come home with new stories… perhaps more than I do in some of the other places we’ve been.
From Luka Bloom’s latest album, Out of the Blue. I’m listening to this as I type this.
And one by Luka Bloom’s brother, Christy Moore. Believe it or not, this was the first version of “Fairytale of New York” I ever heard. It’s a cover… but it’s a damn fine cover!
Well, that about does it for this wistful post. I sure am ready to fast forward to our next trip. But barring that, I’d just like to fast forward to seeing Bill again. I have really missed him.
Yesterday, the weather was kind of iffy, as it has been today. In retrospect, maybe it would have been a good idea to go out yesterday. Maybe there would be fewer people out and about, and we could pump some euros into the local economy. But we decided to stay in, and I spent a rather angsty day reading more and more about the state of U.S. politics and the stupid face mask controversy. I got into a couple of pointless arguments, too.
I also played guitar. I brought my new blue one downstairs and turned on some music. Before I knew it, I had picked it up and was strumming along to Tom Petty’s live version of “I Won’t Back Down”. It has a pretty easy chord progression– E-D-G, E-D-C… easy enough for a rank beginner to follow along with somewhat, although I’m still too slow at changing chords. It was kind of fun trying to figure out the songs I can sort of play, although I still have a long way to go. I even tried “Every Breath You Take” by The Police and was almost successful at it.
Bill picked up his guitar too, although he’s only been playing for a week. Maybe there will come a day when we can jam together.
A nice look!He does look happy, doesn’t he?Just got out of the shower.
The title of today’s post comes from a song by Ray Stevens. I have always thought Ray Stevens’ talent was a bit underrated. He’s a wonderful singer and pianist, but he’s best known for singing comedic novelty songs, with the exception of his 1970 hit, “Everything is Beautiful”. Even though some people might think of it as a “schmaltzy” song, I’ve always thought of “Everything is Beautiful” as an anthem of tolerance and kindness. I find it oddly comforting to listen to it today.
A silly song… but I relate. I doubt my guitar playing will make me a celebrity, though.
This song always makes me smile, even though it’s kind of corny.
Since we aren’t traveling or exploring as much this year, music has become a lot more important to me. I’ve been making more videos, all of which include photos or videos from our travels. In a way, it’s made me miss traveling more, although making music brings me joy. I don’t have a lot of people listening, but it’s still a pleasure to make it and explore new and creative ways to express myself. Making music is mostly uncontroversial, and it doesn’t beg philosophical discussions or arguments. I’ve about had my fill of those lately, too.
I doubt we’ll go out today… the sky is full of rain clouds and the wind is up. I welcome the rain, since our rain barrel in the backyard is pretty parched and has dried out so much at the top that it’s warped a bit. Maybe with more rain, the wood will swell and seal up the cracks in the wood. The garden is liking the rain, too. Our cucumbers have blossoms, which I know means that the fruits will be on the vine soon. I’m starting to sound like a Handmaid… and with the constant hammering about face masks, maybe I’ll soon look like one.
Anyway… this weekend has so far not been as exciting or fun as last weekend was. We really enjoyed ourselves, but we also recognize that it’s best not to jump back into the way we were in previous years. Not until the coronavirus scourge has been vanquished a bit more. Hopefully, that won’t take the rest of my life.
Here’s a video I made this week. I shared it on my original blog, but since this post is about music, I’ll share here, too. I’m much better at singing than playing guitar. But with time, practice, and luck, maybe I can even things up a bit.
And just to keep things topical, this video includes footage from our visit to Ireland in 2016. Boy, do I wish we could be there now…
Easy like Sunday morning… we slept until about 8:00am, which is almost unheard of these days, even on the weekends. Sunday morning was our last breakfast at the Merrion Hotel, although as it turned out, we totally could have had breakfast on Monday if we’d wanted to. In fact, I wish we had done that, since the all purpose lounge at the Dublin airport kind of sucks. For some reason, the breakfast menu on Sunday was abbreviated. Maybe it was because we came down a little later. Maybe it’s because it was Sunday. I don’t know.
It rained on Sunday morning, which was significant because Ireland had gone 40 days without any significant rain. The drought has scorched the grass pretty badly and, in fact, it was bad enough that a major archaeological find was discovered about thirty miles north of Dublin.
Bill had pancakes with blueberry compote and I had scrambled eggs with smoked salmon.
Oops… I guess I didn’t pay close enough attention to Bill’s face when I took this…
The eggs were very good.
We had big plans for the afternoon. I booked afternoon “art tea” for us at the Merrion Hotel. It was easy to make the booking through Open Table. Since it wasn’t due to start until 1:30pm, we needed to find something to do in the morning. I proposed a visit to the Jameson Distillery Tour on Bow Street in Dublin. We had yet another entertaining cab driver and we were his last fare of the day, so he was quite animated as we discussed topics ranging from Scientology to Donald Trump. Then he let us off in front of a very high speed looking hostel, where he got out himself because he needed to pee.
We had to do a little searching to find the visitor’s center for Jameson’s, which now only serves as a visitor’s center and not a distillery. Until 1970, this was where Jameson’s Whiskey was made. It is now made in County Cork in southern Ireland. However, although the facility was renovated in 2017, some original features from the original structure built in 1780 remain. And instead of making whiskey, the place serves as a big commercial for Jameson’s Irish Whiskey, which I will admit is quite nice.
The entrance.
Below are some photos from our tour. Although we usually go for the more involved experiences, we didn’t have time for anything beyond the basic guided tour, which ran for about about 40 minutes. Also, we had forgotten that on Sundays, one cannot purchase alcohol before 12:30pm. We were at the distillery in time for the 10:45 tour and were allowed to taste whiskey, but not buy any. It made perfect sense why the more detailed tours were offered after 1:00pm. They probably figure that after learning how to make cocktails or blending whiskey, people will be more inclined to buy whiskey in their shop. We wanted to buy whiskey, but didn’t want to wait until 12:30 pm.
Nice bar area, complete with chandeliers made with Jameson’s bottles.
Sine Metu– without fear.
And the variety of tours one can take. We did the Bow St. Experience, led by a winsome lad named Adam.
The Bow Street Experience basically consists of hearing about the history of the Jameson brand in one room, then moving to another room, where the process is described. Actually, having been to way too many scotch whisky distilleries and, by now, knowing the whisky/whiskey making process by heart, I must commend Jameson for their presentation. It’s interactive and Adam was a good speaker– funny and entertaining.
You can actually see and smell for yourself as the tour guide uses a very nice backlit display to explain the process of making whiskey.
I was imagining Adam would make a good teacher. His presentation skills and wit were impeccable.
We were given a sample of Scotland’s leading blended whisky, Johnnie Walker Black, a sample of Jameson’s Whiskey, and a sample of Jack Daniels Black Label, which I hadn’t had since my college days. It was interesting to taste the differences.
Ahh… we get to taste it!
I like how they help out with the logistics of bringing the booze back in luggage…
At the end of the tour, you get your choice of whiskey neat, on the rocks, or in a cocktail with lime juice and ginger ale. I had the cocktail, which was nice. Bill drank his neat.
The “Daily Grog”, which employees were given at the start and end of every shift. Now they only give it at the end of the day.
A glimpse of the aging room below the main level.
The area around the distillery is pretty nice. There are restaurants, places to shop, and on the day of our visit, it looked like they were setting up for a concert, complete with food trucks.
Bill used a handy app to summon a taxi. It was remarkably effective and we could even watch the taxi’s progress as it made its way to us. It took just three minutes. The taxi driver got us back to the hotel at about 12:30 pm and we got dressed up for our afternoon “art tea”, scheduled for 1:30pm. More on that in the next post.
Saturday afternoon, I was thinking I really wanted to find a nice Irish pub to hang out in. I hoped for a place with good music. Too many bars were playing shitty dance music. I know the Irish have good taste in tunes and I was hoping to find a place where I could Shazam a lot and find new stuff to listen to at home. Taking heed of my advice to look down alleys and alcoves, I spotted McGrattans Bar, which looked like it had promise. We approached the door and I stood there for a second, listening for shitty dance music. I didn’t hear any, so we ventured in…
Unfortunately, what they were playing was almost as bad as dance music. The TVs were all tuned to football. I know a lot of people love to watch sports. I find it pretty boring. I’d rather watch football/soccer than golf, though. Watching golf, especially on TV, is kind of like watching flies fuck. Still, it wasn’t so bad that we couldn’t have a couple of rounds. We tried a couple of Irish lagers and enjoyed the deadpan bartender. McGrattans appears to be a somewhat popular place. It even has pool tables. Maybe Bill and I should have tried our hand at billiards, but neither of us really plays pool.
Bill enjoys beer…
The inside was pretty quaint. It was missing music, though.
I remember liking this beer pretty well.
After a couple of rounds, we moved on. The area around Merrion Row has a lot of pubs to choose from, most of which featured football and crowds of young men eagerly staring at the TV screens. We passed one bar that appeared to have a lively outdoor area, but it was super crowded. So we went back to Chambers Pub and Cocktail Bar, where our red haired bearded friend was back on duty. We had a couple of whiskeys, since they didn’t have any draft beers we hadn’t already tried. I did switch back to beer when we decided to have dinner.
Chambers was playing sports on their TVs, but they were also playing some great old 70s and 80s music, which satisfied my needs quite nicely. I was also enjoying people watching. I thought we might make it until 9:15pm, when the music was supposed to start, but we were too tired… beer drinking will do that to you. I think we left about an hour before the band was supposed to show up.
We went round the corner from the bar for some grub.
Bill had a burger and fries.
I had an open faced steak sandwich with bearnaise sauce. It was just the right size and the fries were delicious.
Total bill for our evening at Chambers was about 69 euros, which was less than I was expecting. Next time we’re in Dublin, we’ll definitely visit Chambers again. I think it was my favorite of the pubs we visited. After we ate, we stopped by the Spar to pick up some water and a bottle of wine in case we wanted to stay in Sunday night.
After lunch at Chambers, we went back to the hotel for a rest. Our room came with a daily paper, so Bill took the opportunity to read up about what was expected at our concert. The same information was also available online, but it was a nice touch to have the information on an actual piece of paper. The next day, the show (just Paul Simon’s part) was given a glowing review. I saved the paper, although I didn’t entirely agree with the reviewer’s comments.
Paul Simon on stage with his excellent band!
Anyway, the show was at RDS (Royal Dublin Society) Arena, which I understand is typically used for equine and other sporting events. We were instructed to use the “red route” as opposed to the “yellow route” to enter the arena, even though we actually sat on the yellow route side. They were enforcing this rule, too, which was a bit of a pain, since the cab dropped us off on the yellow route. I chose to leave my big purse at the hotel, which was a good idea. I did bring a sweater, though, which was also a good idea. It got surprisingly chilly Friday night, after the sun went down.
We booked pitch seating, which isn’t necessarily the best idea for Bill and me, since we’re both kind of short. We were in row UU in seats 93 and 94– not super close, like we were at the Stones’ concert, but pretty close. We were able to see the stage fairly well, especially with the use of the monitors, which weren’t as big as the ones at the Stones’ concert. Many people who were standing in the back complained about the view. I will admit, it was probably pretty hard for them to see much of anything from where they were. The stands on either side of the arena appeared to offer a good vantage point. In retrospect, I might have preferred sitting there. Pitch seating felt a lot like riding in the middle seat in coach on an airplane.
Unlike at the Stones’ concert, we sat near friendly people. Two Irish ladies sat next to Bill and they were very chatty. The people on my side were not chatty, but they were very friendly. The crowd mostly consisted of older people… people even older than Bill and I are. We saw older folks at the Stones’ concert, too, though most of them seemed a bit more ambulatory than some of the people at Paul Simon’s show.
Bonnie Raitt took the stage at a little after 5:00pm. I’d read that she recently had surgery. She did look a little tired, but she and her band sounded great and played a lot of their best known hits like “Angel From Montgomery” and “No Business”. She even brought guest player Paul Brady on stage; he co-wrote “Not the Only One” with Bonnie for her 1991 album, Luck of the Draw, and played “Something to Talk About” for a guy in the audience who was celebrating his 70th birthday. She mentioned that it wouldn’t be long before she herself celebrates 70 years on the planet. I kind of expected political commentary from Bonnie Raitt, and she did quip that she was happy to be on the other side of the pond. Everyone cheered. The ladies who were sitting with us had a whole lot to say about Donald Trump. We agreed with their negative impressions of him and assured them that we didn’t vote for Trump.
Bonnie played for about an hour, said goodbye, and then we had about a half an hour before James Taylor took the stage. That’s when a lot more people showed up. I was surprised that Bonnie didn’t get more of a turnout; but then, Friday was a workday and the show started at around five o’clock. It could be that a lot of people couldn’t get off work. I enjoyed her part of the show and was kind of surprised to see her opening for anyone. In my book, she’s a legendary performer herself.
The place filled up in time for James Taylor’s entrance. I’ve been to two other concerts featuring JT– once in 1990 and once in 2003. I’m always struck by how much he enjoys playing music. Once again, he was sounding great and injected some humor into his set. At one point, he was talking about how much he was enjoying his tour as he casually flipped over his guitar. There, he’d put the words “Help me.”, which got a big laugh from the crowd.
James had his long time backup singers Andrea Zonn, Kate Markowitz, and Arnold McCuller with him. I didn’t see David Lasley, who has always been with him in other shows I’ve attended. Hope he’s doing alright, although Lasley is 70 now. Maybe he’s retiring, too. Michael Landau, who’s been playing with James since at least the early 90s, was also playing in Dublin. I got a kick out of watching drummer Steve Gadd, who was really into the music. He looked like he was about to take a dump on stage a couple of times, but it all sounded (and smelled) great.
I’ve been a James Taylor fan for many years and feel like I know him, although we’ve never met. I did attend his brother Livingston’s concert at the Birchmere in Alexandria, Virginia. Livingston once sent me guitar strings when I was trying to learn to play (on a really crappy used Armenian guitar I bought at the vernissage). I loved Liv’s show. He was very accessible and the venue was intimate. Unfortunately, he mostly plays in the United States, so I’ll have a wait before I can see him again. Anyway, the Taylor clan is immensely talented and very near and dear to my heart. Though they’re from Boston originally, they all grew up near Chapel Hill, North Carolina, which is where my sister lives and not far from where Bill and I lived for a time. I grew up in southern Virginia, which isn’t all that far, either. Their music takes me home.
Finally, after Taylor’s ninety minute show and a short break for the roadies to set the stage, Paul Simon came out. This was my first time seeing Mr. Simon in concert. It’ll probably be the only time I’ll see him, since he says he won’t be touring anymore. Let me just say that I’m delighted that I pulled the trigger on this concert. It was absolutely awesome. Simon was backed by a marvelous group called yMusic. They played Simon’s best known solo hits and most his older Simon & Garfunkel hits expertly. The crowd was enchanted by them. I was equally enchanted… at least until I got a charley horse and had to walk around a bit.
The crowd mostly stayed seated for Simon’s show, although a few people couldn’t help dancing. Toward the end of the concert, people got to their feet and Simon plowed through twenty-six songs. He looked pretty tired by the end, but was such a gracious and humble performer. It was a real treat to see and hear him play. At the end of the show, he even left us with hope. Just before he played
“American Tune”, he said “Strange times we live in, huh? Don’t give up.” The crowd roared. Ireland clearly loves him, too. Here’s a link to the review that was in the Irish Times on Saturday.
At the end of the night, we headed out of the arena and some American guy was complaining about not having a ticket stub. Apparently, he printed his tickets or something. They were being very strict about showing your tickets when you went for food or to the restroom, so he must have had something proving he was there. Anyway, he asked the crowd if anyone wanted to donate their ticket stub to him. Some guy obliged and the American guy started cracking jokes. He said, “Hey, this says Bruno Mars on it!” (Bruno Mars had also played recently in Dublin) Then he said, “Does anyone want this guy’s credit card number?”
The mood coming out of the arena was jubilant. People really had a good time! Bill and I were amazed that we spent six hours listening to three legends play. We were exhausted at the end of it, but so glad we made the trip. Ireland was a great place to see Paul Simon perform his last tour. Better yet, no one smoked cigarettes next to me all night while wearing a tank top!
This is a picture of the hideous American Embassy in Dublin.
I was impressed by all of the choices of things to eat. At the Stones concert, you could eat wurst and drink beer. Paul Simon’s show had a bunch of food trucks. Bill and I stuck to beer, mainly because we didn’t want to wait in line.
Lots of people hung out on the green before the show started.
My view before the crowds arrived.
Bonnie Raitt on stage. She was the only performer to get a formal announcement.
Thank God for zooming.
James Taylor sneaked on stage with no introduction!
Andrea Zonn plays fiddle… she is a contemporary of Alison Krauss’s and also sings beautifully. Check her out.
Paul Simon is only 5’3″ (still taller than me), so it helped that he was on the monitor.
This is the view off screen, although I zoomed for this shot.
Unzoomed!
I posted this picture on Facebook with the quip “This time, it wasn’t me.” Between us, Bill and I had four beers, only two of which were in bottles. The two guys in front of us drank at least fourteen ciders between them. Drinking is not a joke in Ireland!
This guy on keyboards was insanely good. He played a genius solo toward the end of the concert. I was very impressed by all of the musicians who played with Paul Simon. They were all very talented players.
Final bows. I loved the guy in the red shirt playing lead guitar. He had a lot of charisma and was as much fun to watch as he was to listen to.
Many folks were headed here after the show was finished. Not Bill and I… we needed rest.
The first time we visited Dublin, Bill and I stayed at the Marker Hotel, which is a very nice business class accommodation located near Ireland’s Facebook offices. The Marker Hotel was, at that time, Trip Advisor’s number one pick for hotels in Dublin. I don’t think that’s why I booked it, though. I think it’s because the Merrion Hotel was full during the time we wanted to visit. When I travel without the dogs, I like to stay in nice hotels.
Super nice digs!
Bill and I liked the Marker Hotel fine, but the location wasn’t ideal for us. It’s very close to the Liffey River, kind of away from all the pubs and sights. The Merrion Hotel, by contrast, is right in the thick of things, off Merrion Square and close to St. Stephen’s Green. It’s directly next to a street lined with restaurants and it’s also not far from the RDS Arena, which is where Paul Simon would be performing. The Marker Hotel’s location is a bit more residential and not as convenient to non business related activities.
The Merrion Hotel is also just plain more to my liking. It’s more of a traditional hotel, with more of a classic feel than the Marker Hotel’s ultra sleek modern vibe. Both hotels are expensive. Both hotels are very nice and offer excellent service and good food. But my preference is for the Merrion, which our cab driver assured us is the best hotel in Dublin. I believe him. For readers who are wondering which one they’d like better– if you’re going to splurge, that is– I’d say choose the Marker Hotel if you like modern decor and want to be close to the river and/or Facebook. Choose the Merrion Hotel if you like a more traditional decor with character and lavish service. Either way, you really can’t go wrong. They are both beautiful hotels.
If your preference is more for “interesting”, I’d recommend checking out the Charleville Lodge, which is run by a hilarious guy who is very active on Facebook. I have not stayed at the Charleville Lodge myself, but I have a feeling I would enjoy it… if only I weren’t so posh. The guy who runs the Charleville Lodge also runs the White Moose Cafe, which was all over the news a few months ago after the owner exposed a blogger. Hmmm… I guess that’s another reason I decided not to book there. Seriously, if you like cheeky humor and don’t mind some ribbing, you might want to check it out. Maybe we’ll stay there next time we go to Dublin, but only if I’ve given up writing by that time.
So, anyway, back to the Merrion Hotel. I had prepaid for the room, but they took an imprint of Bill’s credit card for “incidentals”. We knew there would be incidentals, too. The Merrion Hotel has two restaurants, a pub, and a cocktail bar, as well as a beautifully equipped spa. I never made it to a spa treatment, but I did try out the beautiful pool and took note of the well-maintained exercise room, which, of course, I didn’t use.
We were assigned room 333, which was a standard room on the “garden” wings. The garden wings are relatively newly built wings to the original hotel, which originally consisted of four Victorian era townhouses. While the newer rooms lack the character of the original rooms, they are still extremely well appointed and comfortable and even come with free chocolate and water. Below are some pictures.
They gave us free Fuji water, which we never got around to drinking, and three chocolate bars, which we brought home with us. Chocolate is definitely a plus.
The bed. Not sure what that stripe down the picture is. Maybe my iPhone malfunctioned.
A tray of amenities. If you need dry cleaning or laundry done, they have you covered.
A huge marble bathroom with a nice shower and tub. It also had a scale in it, which I carefully avoided. The shower was nice, although I preferred the one at Wald Hotel in Stuttgart!
Water by Oscar Wilde! He’s everywhere in Dublin!
Our room also had a French balcony, free Internet, a mini bar, and a TV with lots of channels on it. Every night, a housekeeper brought us ice and kept us stocked with water. We only got turn down service on the night of Paul Simon’s concert because the other nights, we were already in for the evening when it was time for turn down service.
We were pretty tired on our first night in Dublin, so we decided to eat at the hotel. They have a pub in the basement called The Cellar Bar (which I had originally misunderstood as “Salad Bar”). It’s a really cool place, with lots of brick rooms. Thursday nights, they have live entertainment. Although we didn’t see the musicians who played for a short while, we did hear them. It was a nice treat and, unfortunately, the closest I got to live pub music during our visit. Maybe next time we’ll have better luck and want to stay up later.
Bill peruses the menu.
He had an open faced steak sandwich with mild cheese.
I went with half a chicken smothered with barbecue sauce. This was a real treat! While we certainly get chicken in Germany, it’s not usually prepared in this style. It came with a salad.
A Hop House Lager, made by Guinness.
Service at The Cellar Bar was cordial and professional and the food was very good. I would have liked to have gone there a second time, but we didn’t get the chance. However, we did have three breakfasts in The Garden Room, which is one of the hotel’s restaurants. Breakfast is 24 euros if you just want the continental stuff and 29 euros if you opt for a cooked to order breakfast. If you want steak and eggs, it’s another fourteen euros. I was a little tempted by steak and eggs, but that seemed too extreme.
On our first morning, we had a nice view of the courtyard garden.
And here’s a view of the continental island, which has the usual fruits, cheeses, breads, juices, and pastries.
Bill had scrambled eggs with smoked salmon.
I went with Eggs Benedict.
The garden is very pretty.
It even has a fountain!
When the maid is cleaning your room, they hang these handy signs.
I liked the uniforms the staff in the Garden Room wore. They had very nice tailored slacks and vests that appeared to be good quality. Actually, everyone in the hotel wears very nice uniforms and they vary depending on what part of the hotel the person is working in. We noticed at least one American working in the Garden Room. She was the chattiest of all the wait staff. I think I overheard her saying that she was in studying in Dublin. As a former English major, I couldn’t help but note that Ireland is kind of a paradise for former English majors… or even well read geeks like my husband.
After breakfast, we learned more about Dublin’s rich musical and literary history. More on that in my next post!
You must be logged in to post a comment.