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A couple of mundane chores and dinner at Besitos Tapas y Mas in Stuttgart…

Yesterday, Bill and I had to take care of a couple of personal chores.  First, I had to get my regular dependent I.D. replaced– the one I would use back in the States.  I had it made in 2014 at Fort Sam Houston, just before Bill retired from the Army.  Four years have passed, and it expired on my birthday.  I never use it over here, so I had forgotten to get it redone when it expired in June.  We finally got around to renewing it at Patch Barracks.

I’ve had a bunch of I.D.s made over the total of six years we’ve lived in the Stuttgart area, more than I’ve ever had done anywhere, but this was the first time I’ve had one done at Patch.  Since the I.D. office is in the same building Bill worked in during our first Germany stint, it was kind of nostalgic to go there.

On the way out of the I.D. office, Bill called my attention to the “amnesty box” on the wall by the police station.  I had never seen one before, so he was explaining what it was used for.  That’s where people drop off any bullets they’ve taken off the shooting range.  Apparently, taking bullets off post is verboten.  That led to us talking about whether or not it’s dangerous to drop bullets.  Bill assures me it’s not.

As we were leaving, a military police officer was ticketing someone who didn’t park in a proper spot.  I suppose it’s not surprising, given how scarce parking can be at Patch.  It was an even bigger problem when we were here the first time.  I won’t miss the scarce parking in these parts, although it could be just as bad where we’re going.

Next, we went to Stuttgart, where we had about 90 minutes to kill before I paid yet another visit to my fabulous dentist, Dr. Blair.  We stopped by the Biergarten at the Paulaner am alten Postplatz and had a beer before the appointment.  It’s getting pretty cold here now and there was a stiff breeze.  I was glad I wore a sweater.  Meanwhile, my friends in the South are complaining about the heat.

An afternoon weizen downtown…  The waitress laughed when I slurred the word “weizen” and said “weithen” instead.

 

We broke the news to Dr. Blair that we’re going to have to move.  I think we will keep seeing him, because he truly is the best dentist I have ever had.  He did an outstanding job on my implant.  I can’t even tell it’s not my real tooth.  Recently, he’s been monitoring a patch of red on my gums, well beneath the gumline.  It’s just a faint red line at this point, but he’s been watching it since June.  I don’t think I’ve ever had such a conscientious doctor of any kind.  Dr. Blair says he has a lot of patients in Wiesbaden, since it’s less than two hours away by train.  Besides, there’s always a chance we’ll come back to Stuttgart at some point.

After the appointment, we walked around downtown, where they’re setting up for the historical Cannstatter Fest.  This year, besides the regular Volksfest that goes on in Bad Cannstatt, there will also be an old fashioned/historic one at the Schlossplatz in Stuttgart.  Food booths were already going up yesterday, along with old fashioned rides.

I got a few pictures of the progress being made and enjoyed music being played by a couple of talented street buskers.  One guy was singing a pretty good rendition of “You Raise Me Up”, which is a song that many people love.  Personally, I’ve heard it a few too many times on shows like America’s Got Talent, but I was impressed by his efforts, even if he was singing to pre-recorded music.  Another guy was strumming a lute while using his foot to play a tambourine.  I got Bill to contribute a couple of euros, since I think it’s impressive to see people play two instruments at once.

Looks like this is going to be fun.  It opens this weekend.

Then, we decided to have dinner at Besitos Tapas y Mas, a Spanish chain restaurant not far from Calwer Strasse.  I had noticed it while we were sitting at the Biergarten across the street.  Besitos has locations in eight German cities, mostly scattered in the southern part of the country.  I had not heard of it before last night, but we decided we wanted to go somewhere different.

Besitos is a large restaurant, with plenty of outside and indoor seating.  It’s very casual, although they do take reservations.

We arrived at the restaurant just as it was opening at 5:00pm.  A large group of students entered right before us and took a big table near the bar.  We found a table near the wall and took a look at the menu, which mostly consists of hot and cold tapas, cocktails, and a few main courses.  Although I wouldn’t have minded a cocktail, I decided it might be better to stick with beer.  Some of the cocktails at Besitos are quite expensive and I wanted something quenching.  We ordered five different tapas to split: hummus (which came with bread), chicken with coconut curry sauce, ham croquettes, patatas bravas (roasted potatoes with salsa brava), and garlic toast.  Our waiter was a heavily inked and pierced guy, who seemed laid back but efficient.  He handled his job fine.

A look at the interior before it started filling up with people.

Garlic toast.  Not the most exciting tapa out there, but satisfying enough.

The whole spread.  The hummus was a little disappointing because it was a bit grainy and lacked flavor.  The sauce on the potatoes was much like the sauce that came with the chicken.  However, though nothing was particularly special, neither was anything offensive.

My favorite of the tapas was the ham croquettes.  They were crispy on the outside and gooey in the middle, just like me.  I also liked the chicken and wished we’d ordered two of those.  One small piece wasn’t quite enough.  The potatoes were plentiful and tasted good.  I liked the way they were roasted.

When it came time to leave, I went down to the ladies room.  That’s kind of where our otherwise pleasant experience went a bit south.  I don’t know why, but the restroom smelled a lot like diarrhea.  It’s possible that the restroom always smells bad.  Perhaps there is a sewer gas problem.  However, during our visit, the stench was overwhelming and I couldn’t stand to be in there longer than a couple of minutes.  It reeked of a full on blowout diaper or something.  Nasty!

Bill said he saw our waiter down there with a can of air freshener, so maybe someone had an accident and he was responding to a complaint.  It was pretty rank and, unfortunately, that didn’t leave me with a great impression.  I also noticed that the restaurant was a little grimy, like maybe it could have used a good cleaning in some places.  The menus were obviously well loved and had what appeared to be dried beverage stains on them.  However, it’s clearly a popular spot with the young crowd and lots of people were eating there as we were leaving.

We ultimately left on a good note, because our waiter had thought we were Germans and only asked us if we were American when he noticed U.S. dollars in Bill’s wallet.  When he realized we weren’t natives, he switched to perfect English that sounded American.  Then he complimented Bill on his German skills and thanked him for what was probably a more American style tip.  Overall, I thought the food at Besitos was okay, but the disgusting smell in the restroom was a huge turn off.  No one wants to smell diarrhea, especially after eating.  It makes one wonder what caused the fecal explosion.  But then, as we all know, shit happens…

On the way back to our car, I noticed a couple of wine bars on Calwer Strasse that I hadn’t noticed on previous visits.

This one was a tiny hole in the wall, but it looked inviting.

Maybe we’ll have a chance to try both places before it’s time to head north.

  
Anyway, we’ll definitely be back in Stuttgart one more time for a cleaning before we move to Wiesbaden.  I’ll miss being close to this town, which I’ve finally gotten to know.  The first time we lived in Germany, we never went to Stuttgart except for a couple of times.  Thanks to my dental dramas, we’ve come to enjoy visiting on occasion, despite the hellish traffic that surrounds it.  Guess it’s time to become familiar with the ICE train.

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The making of my new tooth! And… tapas at Desiree…

This afternoon, I visited Dr. Blair, the dentist extraordinaire, to get my dental crown fitted.  This day has been a long time coming.  My ordeal started in the fall of 2014, when I noticed the gum above one of the two baby teeth I had left from childhood was badly inflamed.  We visited Dr. Blair for the first time in January 2015 and he told me that I had an infection.  He said it was possible he could try a root canal, but that it would probably be best to remove the tooth and either get a bridge or an implant.

Since I wasn’t interested in ruining the two teeth on either side of my abscessed baby tooth, I determined that I wanted an implant.  However, I am a big chicken when it comes to medical and dental procedures.  Also, before we got started on my expensive dental implant odyssey, I wanted to make sure Bill would still be employed after his first year in Germany as a contractor.  It took until September for me to go see Dr. Blair to have the tooth extracted.  I will admit, I was extremely nervous about it and didn’t have the benefit of drugs beforehand, but Dr. Blair is a pro.  He pulled the tooth out, noted that it had a vertical fracture in the root, and told me we were right to go the implant route.  A root canal would have definitely failed.

In January 2016, Dr. Blair did a sinus lift.  I went in and took a couple of Ativan, mellowed out, and Dr. Blair did a procedure that would allow more bone to grow so that my jaw would handle the implant.  He also put the implant in my upper jaw and I spent the next few months healing.  The sinus lift took about an hour and I’m glad I took Ativan beforehand, because it wasn’t a very pleasant procedure.  That part of the dental implant process cost about 2000 euros, which Bill has paid for.

In May, I went in and Dr. Blair uncovered my implant that had been ossifying in my bone.  Again, I opted for medications for that procedure, but I probably didn’t really need them too much.  He just exposed the implant, then put a “healing cap” over it.  Then in June, I went in and got impressions made for the lab to make my crown.  The impressions were not painful, but the process of making them wasn’t a whole lot of fun.  Fortunately, Dr. Blair’s got a great staff and is himself a very kind and competent doctor.

On my birthday, which was June 20th, we went to the lab and had many pictures taken of my teeth.  Then a few days later, I went back and tried on the new crown.  I was amazed by how real it looked.  We spent about a half an hour shaping it until it fit perfectly.

Today, I went in and had the new crown installed.

Before… you can see the healing cap on my top tooth.

Another shot.

Now the implant is complete.  Can you tell the difference between my natural teeth and my new fake tooth?  I can’t.  

 

I have to go back next week for one more appointment.  Dr. Blair is going to check to make sure the implant is okay.  Then, it’ll be back to normal until my next dental crisis.  We haven’t gotten any bills for the work that has been done since the implant was installed, but we’re expecting another 2000 euros or so.  We do have insurance, which we will have to file ourselves.  I think it covers a maximum of $2000 per year.  Since we have tickets to see Van Morrison on Wednesday, we will stay two nights in Stuttgart.  I will be travel blogging a lot next week!

After we visited Dr. Blair, we went to the Markthalle and picked up some wine, ham, tuna, cherries, cheese, and chocolate.  I love going there.  Someday, we are going to have to visit the Markthalle and load up on a whole lot of delectable edibles.  After we finished shopping, we visited a tapas bar called Desiree.  It’s located in the Markthalle and I had been curious about it for awhile.

These were the specials today.  I wanted to order one, but because it was only 4:30pm, we were there too early.

Bill being cute.

We each had a glass of wine.  Bill had a rioja and I had a tempranillo.

A shot of the sign.

And the charming downtown area…  It was a great day to sit outside.

We decided to share a plate of tapas.  Desiree has a deal where you can get five tapas for 12,50.  It comes with bread.  You can also get three tapas for 10,00.  On Fridays, they have paella.  Tapas are offered all day, while more substantial dishes are only offered at certain times, which I didn’t see listed in the menu.  The tapas were very good.  I especially liked the spicy chicken wings, olives, and meatballs.  When we were finished, we had another glass of wine to let the horrendous traffic on A81 die down.

All told, we spent about 32 euros for our little afternoon repast.  I think I’d like to go back to Desiree for paella or one of their big dishes.  At the very least, the tapas are fun, especially when the weather is nice and you can sit outside.

We stopped at the Shoppette on Patch on the way home.  Bill gassed up my car.  Has anyone ever tried “Perky Jerky”?  Is it worth the trip?

 

I’m already used to my new tooth and delighted with the end results.  I highly recommend Dr. Blair if you need a dental implant.  He does great work.  And it’s great to be rid of that big hole in my smile, too!  Edited to add:  The grand total for this procedure was approximately 4,750 euros or just over $5200 by today’s exchange rate.

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Having a humdinger of a hummer at Ocean’s First in Holzgerlingen… (now closed)

Ocean’s First is now permanently closed.  🙁  It is now a Russian/Former Soviet Union inspired restaurant called Veranda.  

I am always grateful when someone who reads this blog passes along restaurant suggestions to me.  A couple of weeks ago, someone in the Stuttgart Friends 2.0 Facebook group left me a comment on one of my more recent reviews.  They had visited Ocean’s First, a seafood restaurant in Holzgerlingen, and highly recommended it.  I checked out the restaurant’s Web site and saved the link, making a mental note to try it out.

I grew up in the Tidewater region of Virginia and I love good seafood.  But now I live in a country that is mostly landlocked.  The one part of Germany that is near the sea is way up north and I live way down south, where finding a decent seafood restaurant is difficult.  So I was definitely ready for last night’s adventure, which we planned on the spur of the moment Friday night.  Bill said calling there was an exercise in humor.  After Bill made the reservation in his passable German, the guy at the restaurant confirmed it in perfect English.

 

You can’t miss the sign.

We arrived a little bit early for our 7:00pm reservation.  I quickly noticed the sign for Ocean’s First, but was a little puzzled by the location.  There were two parking spots specifically marked for restaurant patrons, but we were obviously at a corporate building of some sort.  We went into the building, where there was another sign for the restaurant advertising specials.  Then I saw that Ocean’s First was located on the third floor. We took the elevator up.  Voila!

Ocean’s First is a pretty cool little place.  The interior is decorated to sort of resemble an aquarium.  A couple of the walls have rippled textures that could be waves or fish, depending on your perspective.  Blue green lights make them look more like water.  The candle holders look like sea creatures.  I want to say they resemble anemones or maybe sponges.  There’s a bar without any stools that serves as a centerpiece at the front of the restaurant.  Outside, is a very large, wraparound terrace that offers nice views of the admittedly industrial looking surroundings.  Festive Latin flavored music was playing.  I immediately recognized the first songs as being by Zucchero, an Italian singer who recently put out an album he made during a series of live concerts in Cuba.  The Cuban album is what was playing last night.

There was one small group at the restaurant when we arrived.  They were sitting outside.  Bill and I were shown to a two top table by the window.  It happened to be right in the sun, but we decided to stay there because we knew the sun would eventually go down.

The waiter was a very friendly guy who had a good sense of humor and spoke excellent English.  He’s probably the one Bill spoke to on the phone.  Dressed in jeans and a denim shirt, our waiter was the very picture of understated style.  I wore a dress and Bill wore slacks and a button down shirt, but it would have been perfectly okay to dress casually.  That’s what I will do next time.

Clipboards!  How novel!

Our menus came to us on little clipboards and we didn’t have the chance to look at them before we were asked if we wanted aperitifs.  I ordered a glass of bubbly– turned out to be a nice Crémant.  Bill had a Campari on the rocks.  We checked out the menu, which features fish dishes as well as a few choices for those who don’t like seafood.  There was also a list of specials on a chalkboard across the room.

The sun was in my face, but we were later rewarded with a lovely sunset.

The waiter explained what was available last night which, to be honest, is mostly fish that isn’t hard to find in this part of Germany.  He made a point of telling us that the fish is fresh, not frozen.  So don’t go to Ocean’s First expecting to have halibut or sea bass or any other fish that you wouldn’t normally see in these parts.  Because they don’t freeze their fish, Ocean’s First doesn’t actually have a whole lot of fish that can survive a long journey from the ocean.  Last night, they had dorade, zander, salmon, tuna, shrimp and hummer (lobster).

I started with a tuna tartar with avocado creme and sesame seeds.  Bill decided to have the Serrano ham and Manchego cheese tapas.  For our main courses, Bill had a tuna steak special with horseradish flavored mashed potatoes.  I went with the hummer, mainly because that’s not something I see that often in Germany.  I had to laugh when I ordered the lobster as hummer, mainly because the slang term “hummer” means something rather obscene in English.  Bill ordered a nice bottle of Italian white wine and sparkling water to go with our meals.

As we were waiting, another server brought us a small paper bag with slices of black olive bread a tray of olive oil and Kosher salt.  A few more people came in and were seated.  Bill went to the men’s room and came back with the picture below…

Yet another funny brand name that means something different and possibly inappropriate to English speakers…

Bread and oil.

And a lovely white from Italy that was just slightly effervescent.

This was my tuna tartar with avocado creme.  It was very good, though I wish the fish had been a little more chilled.  The avocado creme matched the fish very well, though I was kind of reminded of La Cocina Mexicana’s guacamole.  However, since this was not supposed to be guacamole, it was fine!    

Bill loved his Serrano ham and Manchego cheese tapas.  There are several kinds of tapas offered and they come in several sizes.  When we come back to Ocean’s First, we will have to order a few of them instead of doing the traditional main courses.  Tapas are fun!

 

Our dinner proceeded at a leisurely pace.  This was a good thing, since I had no idea what I was about to be faced with when my hummer finally arrived…

Behold!  A very large crustacean!  It’s a little disconcerting to be served a trough of food, especially when you’re supposed to be ladylike.  Fortunately, I never claimed to be a lady.  I was pretty nervous about eating this, but it actually wasn’t as huge as it seemed.  I was given special tools to break into the lobster and did my best to eat it without making a huge mess.  I did comment to Bill that a bib might have come in handy.  This dish came with a side of drawn butter and salted new potatoes!  I certainly couldn’t eat everything, but I did manage most of the lobster and a bit of the salad and potatoes.  Our funny waiter explained that in Germany, a lobster is small, while a hummer is large.  I will keep that in mind for the future.

Bill’s tuna looked rather plain in comparison to my lobster, but he really enjoyed his dish.  The tuna was perfectly seared and not overcooked.  The potatoes, which were flavored with horseradish, were also a hit.  The waiter had suggested them, pronouncing them “awesome”.  I think Bill agrees.

The sun finally went down at about 8:30 or so…

Post dinner digestion.

 

Next came dessert, which I was surprised I could even consider.

I had warm chocolate cake with cherry sorbet.  We thought maybe this would end up being the dreaded lava cake, but it wasn’t.  It tasted like it might have been a flourless chocolate cake with the lava smeared on top of it.  This was very nice, though I think I liked Bill’s choice more…

Bill had an almond cake that came with an “orange carpaccio”.  Although the cake tasted kind of like something that would be offered in the autumn, Bill really enjoyed it.  The cake was light, not too sweet, and moist.  

Finally, it was time for the bill.  It was presented to us in a cute little treasure chest, along with a business card and a couple of Milka chocolates.

I was actually expecting the bill to be higher than this, though the price of the lobster was more than I was expecting.  There is no printed price of the lobster in the menu; you get charged the market price.  Yesterday, that was 64,90.  Ouch!

 

Bill paid our friendly server and we got up to leave.  I made a stop in the ladies room and realized that in order to use the mirror, I’d need a step stool.  Whoever installed it must have been about six feet tall!  No matter.  At least I could see the top of my head and my eyes, right?  And for those who are wondering, there was no Happy End in the ladies room.  😉

I stopped to rummage through my purse and a man who looked like a chef came out of what was probably a break room.  He smiled broadly at us and asked it we enjoyed our meal.  I was happy to say we did.  Chefs rarely get to see the reactions people have to their creations, so it was nice to be able to thank him for a job well done.

 

We had a great time at Ocean’s First and I’m sure we’ll be back.  Next time, I will not be as extravagant, unless I’m really craving lobster!  But it’s nice to know that if I ever do want a hummer while we’re living here, I can get it in Holzgerlingen!  Aside from that, it’s not so often that dinner out involves both a hummer and a “Happy End”.  😉

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Beautiful Seville by bullet train!

The morning of January 19th, we awoke to chilly, rainy weather in Madrid.  Not wanting to hunt around for food, we decided to have breakfast at Pans & Company, a Spanish fast food chain that emphasizes “healthy” options.  I discovered Pans & Company in 1997, when my travel buddies and I found it in Barcelona.  It’s especially known for its bocadillos, sandwiches that Spaniards like eating as snacks.

I had orange juice, coffee, and a chocolate pastry.  Bill had a more savory option.  While we were in there, a young couple with a cute little daughter came in.  I was heartened to see how her parents cooperated in looking after her.  She was basically well-behaved for her age, but I could also tell she was a bit of a handful.  For fast food, Pans & Company offers an inexpensive yet decent quality breakfast.  It was a lot more economical than the 10 euro per person buffet the hotel was offering.

Eats from Pans & Company…

We checked out of the hotel and took a cab to the train station.  I have to say, the Atocha station in Madrid seemed a lot nicer this time than it was when I was last there in 1997.  We were there a bit early for our train, so we hit a wine bar and enjoyed a nice glass of rioja.

Nice palm garden at the Atocha train station…

The view from our table…

 

Bill enjoys his vino…

After we had our wine, Bill visited the one and only pay toilet we encountered on our trip.  The train station had an automated toilet that cost 60 euro cents, but allowed you to go twice if you needed to.  Of course, once we went through security to get on the train, I noticed there were free toilets.  I guess they do that to keep the bums from abusing the train station’s public bathrooms.  

 

I had taken the AVE train to Seville before and it was in second class.  I remember it being a decent experience.  It was this time, too.  The seats were comfortable and our car wasn’t full of people.  The 300+ mile journey was knocked out in about two hours and twenty minutes and we whizzed through beautiful Spanish countryside.  I listened to music the whole way, enjoying the ride immensely.

 

Bill prepares to take his seat on the train…

We arrived in Seville to sunny skies and relative warmth.  It wasn’t *warm* per se, but it was definitely not as cold and bitter as Madrid was.  A cab took us to our hotel, Hotel Casa 1800, a cute boutique hotel in the Jewish Quarter.  I promised Bill he would love Seville.  It is my favorite Spanish city.

Bill’s first gaze at Seville…

 

After we checked in, we went across the street for a late lunch, where we were immediately confronted by a waiter who had obviously dealt with a lot of Americans.  He was kind of pushy about what he thought we wanted.  We had some cava and he was pushing a fish platter, but I opted for a meat platter instead, which Bill and I shared.  It was actually very good.  There was chicken, skirt steak, and pork, as well as salad.  It really hit the spot.

Mucho meat!

 

We walked around the Santa Cruz area and I showed Bill the very no frills hostel Becky and I stayed in during our last visit.  Then we ran across Aire, a hammam (Turkish bath).  I had read about this spa as I was researching our Space A trip in 2012.  I thought we might end up in Spain then.  But then I forgot about it.  This spa/hammam is located on a very secluded street.  I knew I wanted to try it.  Bill hadn’t brought a bathing suit, but the hammam provides them if you need one.  I booked us an appointment for the next morning.

Camembert and strawberry sauce…

Tapas sized paella…

Potatoes and cheese…

Ham croquettes

Later, we went to another tapas place and ordered way too much food.  We actually went in there because I needed to pee, but stayed because it was kind of an interesting place.  A street musician came in and asked if he could play for money.  He turned out to be kind of a funny guy.  We gave him a couple of euros and watched as people went to mass.  A large chapel was close to the bar and it was easy to see people come and go to church.

As we walked back to the hotel, I gazed around Seville at the bountiful orange trees that hung heavy with fruit.  Some of the oranges had fallen and were smashed by passing cars navigating the winding, tight streets of Seville’s barrio.  We passed Seville’s enormous cathedral and enjoyed the sights and sounds of mostly local people.  January is a great time to visit Seville.


These tiles are all over the place in Seville…

The tower at Seville’s cathedral…

I had to take a picture of this… it’s kind of a Carlin quote.

 
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