Bavaria, dental, Luxury, short breaks

Getting to Bad Wörishofen, and our first night… (part two)

Several weeks ago, Bill arranged to take Thursday and Friday off from work. As I mentioned in the first post in this series, he was planning to get his teeth cleaned by our Stuttgart area dentist, Dr. Blair. Wiesbaden does have good dentists. Bill even goes to one up here, because last year, he broke a tooth and needed treatment while Dr. Blair was on vacation. However, I am very picky about healthcare providers. If I find one I like, I’m willing to travel. I like Dr. Blair and trust him, and it’s fun to visit our old stomping grounds. We have spent six of our married years living in the Stuttgart area, so it will always have a place in my heart.

We took Noyzi and Charlie to the Hundepension. Noyzi was delighted to be there, as you can see in the video below. He’s probably one of their favorite clients, too… he’s so sweet and friendly, and never causes any trouble. I’m sure Charlie will love it, too. This was only his second time there.

If they hadn’t opened the gate when they did, I’ll bet Noyzi would have knocked!

Once we unloaded the dogs, we enjoyed a fairly uneventful trip down to Stuttgart. It was lunchtime when we arrived, so we visited the Paulaner am alte Postplatz, which is a German restaurant very close to Dr. Blair’s office. We’ve been there a few times over the years, and we’ve never been disappointed by the hearty food or the friendly service in this Paulaner themed bar that is situated in the old post office.

This time, Bill had fried sole, which was a special. I had the “Fitness Teller”, which was supposed to be healthy. I guess, in retrospect, it kind of was, although I washed it down with beer. The dish came with a small piece of chicken breast, a salad, and a baked potato with Schmand (German sour cream with herbs) on the side. I don’t really like sour cream that much, so that was good for me. Bill helped me eat the salad! His dish came with Spaetzle, which is a local favorite.

When we got to Dr. Blair’s office, he was at the reception desk, talking to a couple about an implant for the wife. He let us in, and told us to take a seat, since he knows us very well. I waited about fifteen minutes for a hygienist to call me back. Unfortunately, she started the appointment by annoying me. She asked me to swish some very strong antiseptic for a minute. Usually, they have a timer so it’s easy to see how long you’ve held the very strong stuff in your mouth. This time, there was no timer. I spat it out when it started to burn my mouth. She scolded me for not swishing long enough and had me do it again. And again, she said I didn’t swish long enough, although I probably did, since I didn’t rinse after the first swishing.

Her scolding irritated me, so I told her that I spat it out because it was burning my mouth, and I don’t want to hold substances in my mouth if they burn. She might not know it, but a lot of women who are menopausal have problems with burning mouth syndrome, as I do sometimes. But honestly, if she’d just put up an egg timer, I would have tried to swish for as long as the sands were flowing through the glass. I do have an Apple Watch, but it wasn’t convenient to time myself with it. I probably sounded kind of bitchy, but if you read about my recent experiences with German medical care, you might know where that attitude comes from. Anyway, we’re paying for the treatment, and it’s my mouth. I figure I can spit if I want to.

I waited for awhile for Dr. Blair, but then had to change rooms because the hygienist needed to clean someone else’s teeth. When he came in, he was his usual friendly self. He asked why Bill wasn’t getting a cleaning. I told him he was originally supposed to, but the appointment was canceled because of a lack of hygienists. Dr. Blair apologized profusely, especially since he knows we travel to see him. It was no big deal, though. Even if Bill didn’t have a local guy, he’s got to visit Stuttgart again on business in a couple of months. He could always slip in to see Dr. Blair when he’s down there for his conference.

When we were finished with the dentist, we headed southeast toward Bad Wörishofen. It was a pretty easy drive, once we got out of Stuttgart. By the time we got to our destination, I was really glad I didn’t choose a destination that was further away. It was about 6:30 PM when we arrived, and pretty dark outside. Bill and I were definitely ready to relax with a drink. It would take awhile before that would happen.

As we drove into the spa town, Bill found his way to Hotel Fontenay, which has its own parking garage. He tried to turn into the garage, which was locked, of course. It was pretty awkward to back out of there, even with all the assistants on our Volvo. He finally managed to turn the car around and get us to the front door. A young woman behind the desk welcomed us and told us she’d park the car for us after we unloaded our bags. Then she came back with a trolley and took us to room 220.

I booked us a deluxe room with a balcony. It was a large room, and the balcony was very nice, as it looked over the hotel’s lovely backyard. The one thing it lacked was furniture. They probably don’t keep that outside when the weather turns cold. I did see a balcony that had chairs, but most of them seemed to be bare. As for the rest of the room, well… it looked kind of like a relic from the early 1990s. The bed was large, but the mattress was extremely firm. We neglected to bring our own pillows this time, because we figured such an expensive hotel would have decent pillows. Unfortunately, that was not the case. I suppose we could have asked for extras, though. We had split duvets, which was okay with me. I got a kick out of the upholstery on the couch and chair. It reminded me of the old arcade game, Q-bert.

If you were around in the 80s, you might know why this couch made me think of Q-bert!

The bathroom had a tub and a rather disappointing shower, although the water pressure was good. I did like that the bathroom was in its own room, rather than part of the room. The television was small and tucked into an armoire with a safe and the minibar. There was also a built in desk, which I might have appreciated if we had stayed longer than three nights. Below are some photos:

There was a door in the room that could be closed, which separated the bathroom and closet from the bedroom. There was a bright light that operated by motion detector. It was a little annoying, as we would get up to go to the bathroom and get hit with a bright light. On the other hand, it made getting to the bathroom somewhat safer. The door had a window in it, so even with it closed, that light would shine in the room, which might wake up light sleepers.

We decided to have dinner in the hotel’s restaurant. It was here that I noticed some bumbling among the staff. I have sympathy for them because I used to wait tables myself, and people have to learn somewhere. But this was supposed to be a five star hotel… Granted five stars doesn’t necessarily mean excellence. The stars are awarded based on amenities. So you can go to a pretty mediocre five star hotel that has every amenity and service you could ever want. Or you could go to a one star place with stellar service.

Anyway, we were directed to a table in the corner. It wasn’t fully set, and the candle was never lit. I think we were the only ones in the restaurant without a lit candle. It’s not a huge deal, but I did notice it… as well as the lack of bread plates and silverware. The waiter spoke English, and mentioned that he’d only been at the hotel for about two months. He was working the whole room pretty much on his own, as the bartender was a shy young Asian woman who seemed quite inexperienced.

I got the sense that they don’t get too many Americans or English speakers at Hotel Fontenay, which would make sense to me, since it doesn’t seem that well known among English speakers. Most of the clientele appeared to be older than Bill and me, although we did see a couple of parties with younger folks… including one that had children.

I decided to have the turbot dish, which was priced at about 58 euros. Bill ordered shrimp and scallops, which was 49 euros. They had another fish dish that was priced according to the weight of the fish. We thought the restaurant was just expensive, given the price of the room. We also ordered wine and sparkling water.

The waiter brought us an amuse bouchée of duck ham, which I didn’t want to try until I had liquid. Sadly, we had to wait awhile for that to arrive. We tried to order sparkling water from the bartender who seemed to hear us, but apparently didn’t… and then it took the waiter a long time to get to it. The sparkling water and wine were finally delivered by the very friendly and enthusiastic manager (I think), an older German man who seemed intent on presenting a welcoming image. He was sweating a lot, and I was a little worried about his health at first. But he smiled and served the wine, and we started to relax… until the turbot came out.

It turned out the turbot, like the other fish on the menu, wasn’t parceled out into small portions. I had ordered a whole fish, and it was enough for two people! I was shocked as the manager cut the fish, wondering if the other portion was for someone else. No… it was all for me, and Bill had his own dinner! Thank God we didn’t order starters! It came with spinach and basmati rice.

Naturally, we didn’t have room for dessert, so we decided to have after dinner Irish Coffees. That too, was a bit bumbling. The bartender brought out the drinks with the cream on the side. The manager saw that, and apparently, that wouldn’t do. He swiped the drinks and had the kitchen put cream on them. The drinks were good, and by the end of dinner, I was really glad to have them.

The bar at Hotel Fontenay isn’t exactly hopping, or at least it wasn’t when we were there, so we decided to go to bed after we ate. My gums were hurting after the dental visit anyway. Before we left the dining room, the waiter, who seemed kind of nervous about us, told us that when we arrived for breakfast, we should sit at the same table in the corner. I’m not sure why some hotels do the assigned seating thing, but I find it kind of annoying. I’m sure there’s a good reason for it, though.

I took a shower and a couple of Advil PMs. Soon, I was fast asleep.

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Alsace, dental, short breaks

Reunited with France… and it felt so good to be back! Part two…

On Wednesday, March 2nd, we loaded up the Volvo with our bags and our pooches. I can’t say “beagles” anymore, since Noyzi is definitely NOT a beagle. Our first stop was the Tierpension Birkenhof, where the dogs stay when we leave town. I dug out a FFP2 mask for the brief time we would be inside, settling up with the Hunde Pension. Noyzi was absolutely delighted to be back at the doggy hotel. He barked almost the whole way there. Arran, on the other hand, was pretty cranky and kept barking back at Noyzi, probably telling him in dog language to STFU. I was doing the same.

Once the dogs were taken care of, we made our way to Stuttgart, with one quick pee stop at a rest station. I noticed they already had their Easter display up. I wasn’t able to get a picture, which may be a blessing. On the other hand, I don’t remember ever seeing an Easter display put up by a rest stop in the United States.

I had to pee again as we arrived in Stuttgart, so we decided to go into a McDonald’s. As I was making my way to the restroom, I heard someone behind the counter yelling “Entschuldigung!” Ahh… she wanted to check my COV-Pass to make sure I’ve gotten jabbed. The restroom in that McDonald’s was on the second floor, so it wasn’t like I could just duck in and out. I showed my credentials, did my business, and Bill handed me a very small Coke that he bought me for the privilege of using the can.

We got to downtown Stuttgart a couple of hours early, so we decided to have lunch at the Paulaner am alten Postplatz, a German restaurant on Calwer Strasse, the chic street where Dr. Blair’s office is located. Ever since COVID hit, I’m never quite sure of what I should be doing. We went inside, and a waitress checked our COV-Passes and IDs… a step further than what the lady at McDonald’s did. I was shocked, since the first floor of that restaurant is for smokers, and plenty were doing that when we visited! Fortunately, there was a non-smoking area upstairs.

Bill and I both opted to have daily specials. I had duck leg with red cabbage slaw and a bread dumpling. Bill had pork goulash. We had beer– the only beer we had all weekend. It was our first restaurant visit in months, and, I must say, it was great. The food was good, as usual, and it was kind of nice to be around other people. I especially got a kick out of the lady with a large puppy she carried in.

After lunch, we headed over to Dr. Blair’s office for our cleanings and waited, dutifully wearing the oppressive FFP2 masks. Bill got a stern lecture about his flossing habits. I got a lecture about my hesitancy in seeing doctors. I have an area of chronically red gum tissue under my front teeth. Dr. Blair always asks me about it. Then he ribs me about being anxious. He’s a very good dentist, and I think he truly cares about his patients, but I also think he takes my anxiety personally. He really shouldn’t. I had a terrible experience with a physician years ago that has left me very reluctant to see medical people. Dentists are, generally, an exception. I do get nervous before procedures, though. He has never forgotten it, even though it’s been years since he put in my implant.

After our appointments, we made our way toward Sessenheim, which is located just inside the border of France. Even Dr. Blair knew about Sessenheim, correctly identifying it as very close to Baden-Baden. But once you cross the border, everything changes! From the beginning of our trip, checking into Auberge au Boeuf, until the end of our stay, COVID rules were much less inconvenient. We walked into the hotel wearing FFP2s and immediately removed them for the rest of our stay after we were confirmed vaccinated. The same conditions applied at every restaurant we visited. We showed our passes, and it was like 2019 again. The FFP2s were also not required. Regular surgical masks were perfectly okay.

Auberge au Boeuf only has four rooms, and each one has a name. We rented L’Idylle, which is one of the larger rooms. It has a balcony that overlooks the beautiful church next door, it’s own private sauna, a jacuzzi, a rainfall shower, and an impressively stocked minibar. Below are some photos of L’Idylle.

We were still full from lunch and pretty tired from the day’s events, so we decided to stay in. We watched French news, drank wine from the local Aldi, and went to bed early. We were off to a good start.

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A couple of mundane chores and dinner at Besitos Tapas y Mas in Stuttgart…

Yesterday, Bill and I had to take care of a couple of personal chores.  First, I had to get my regular dependent I.D. replaced– the one I would use back in the States.  I had it made in 2014 at Fort Sam Houston, just before Bill retired from the Army.  Four years have passed, and it expired on my birthday.  I never use it over here, so I had forgotten to get it redone when it expired in June.  We finally got around to renewing it at Patch Barracks.

I’ve had a bunch of I.D.s made over the total of six years we’ve lived in the Stuttgart area, more than I’ve ever had done anywhere, but this was the first time I’ve had one done at Patch.  Since the I.D. office is in the same building Bill worked in during our first Germany stint, it was kind of nostalgic to go there.

On the way out of the I.D. office, Bill called my attention to the “amnesty box” on the wall by the police station.  I had never seen one before, so he was explaining what it was used for.  That’s where people drop off any bullets they’ve taken off the shooting range.  Apparently, taking bullets off post is verboten.  That led to us talking about whether or not it’s dangerous to drop bullets.  Bill assures me it’s not.

As we were leaving, a military police officer was ticketing someone who didn’t park in a proper spot.  I suppose it’s not surprising, given how scarce parking can be at Patch.  It was an even bigger problem when we were here the first time.  I won’t miss the scarce parking in these parts, although it could be just as bad where we’re going.

Next, we went to Stuttgart, where we had about 90 minutes to kill before I paid yet another visit to my fabulous dentist, Dr. Blair.  We stopped by the Biergarten at the Paulaner am alten Postplatz and had a beer before the appointment.  It’s getting pretty cold here now and there was a stiff breeze.  I was glad I wore a sweater.  Meanwhile, my friends in the South are complaining about the heat.

An afternoon weizen downtown…  The waitress laughed when I slurred the word “weizen” and said “weithen” instead.

 

We broke the news to Dr. Blair that we’re going to have to move.  I think we will keep seeing him, because he truly is the best dentist I have ever had.  He did an outstanding job on my implant.  I can’t even tell it’s not my real tooth.  Recently, he’s been monitoring a patch of red on my gums, well beneath the gumline.  It’s just a faint red line at this point, but he’s been watching it since June.  I don’t think I’ve ever had such a conscientious doctor of any kind.  Dr. Blair says he has a lot of patients in Wiesbaden, since it’s less than two hours away by train.  Besides, there’s always a chance we’ll come back to Stuttgart at some point.

After the appointment, we walked around downtown, where they’re setting up for the historical Cannstatter Fest.  This year, besides the regular Volksfest that goes on in Bad Cannstatt, there will also be an old fashioned/historic one at the Schlossplatz in Stuttgart.  Food booths were already going up yesterday, along with old fashioned rides.

I got a few pictures of the progress being made and enjoyed music being played by a couple of talented street buskers.  One guy was singing a pretty good rendition of “You Raise Me Up”, which is a song that many people love.  Personally, I’ve heard it a few too many times on shows like America’s Got Talent, but I was impressed by his efforts, even if he was singing to pre-recorded music.  Another guy was strumming a lute while using his foot to play a tambourine.  I got Bill to contribute a couple of euros, since I think it’s impressive to see people play two instruments at once.

Looks like this is going to be fun.  It opens this weekend.

Then, we decided to have dinner at Besitos Tapas y Mas, a Spanish chain restaurant not far from Calwer Strasse.  I had noticed it while we were sitting at the Biergarten across the street.  Besitos has locations in eight German cities, mostly scattered in the southern part of the country.  I had not heard of it before last night, but we decided we wanted to go somewhere different.

Besitos is a large restaurant, with plenty of outside and indoor seating.  It’s very casual, although they do take reservations.

We arrived at the restaurant just as it was opening at 5:00pm.  A large group of students entered right before us and took a big table near the bar.  We found a table near the wall and took a look at the menu, which mostly consists of hot and cold tapas, cocktails, and a few main courses.  Although I wouldn’t have minded a cocktail, I decided it might be better to stick with beer.  Some of the cocktails at Besitos are quite expensive and I wanted something quenching.  We ordered five different tapas to split: hummus (which came with bread), chicken with coconut curry sauce, ham croquettes, patatas bravas (roasted potatoes with salsa brava), and garlic toast.  Our waiter was a heavily inked and pierced guy, who seemed laid back but efficient.  He handled his job fine.

A look at the interior before it started filling up with people.

Garlic toast.  Not the most exciting tapa out there, but satisfying enough.

The whole spread.  The hummus was a little disappointing because it was a bit grainy and lacked flavor.  The sauce on the potatoes was much like the sauce that came with the chicken.  However, though nothing was particularly special, neither was anything offensive.

My favorite of the tapas was the ham croquettes.  They were crispy on the outside and gooey in the middle, just like me.  I also liked the chicken and wished we’d ordered two of those.  One small piece wasn’t quite enough.  The potatoes were plentiful and tasted good.  I liked the way they were roasted.

When it came time to leave, I went down to the ladies room.  That’s kind of where our otherwise pleasant experience went a bit south.  I don’t know why, but the restroom smelled a lot like diarrhea.  It’s possible that the restroom always smells bad.  Perhaps there is a sewer gas problem.  However, during our visit, the stench was overwhelming and I couldn’t stand to be in there longer than a couple of minutes.  It reeked of a full on blowout diaper or something.  Nasty!

Bill said he saw our waiter down there with a can of air freshener, so maybe someone had an accident and he was responding to a complaint.  It was pretty rank and, unfortunately, that didn’t leave me with a great impression.  I also noticed that the restaurant was a little grimy, like maybe it could have used a good cleaning in some places.  The menus were obviously well loved and had what appeared to be dried beverage stains on them.  However, it’s clearly a popular spot with the young crowd and lots of people were eating there as we were leaving.

We ultimately left on a good note, because our waiter had thought we were Germans and only asked us if we were American when he noticed U.S. dollars in Bill’s wallet.  When he realized we weren’t natives, he switched to perfect English that sounded American.  Then he complimented Bill on his German skills and thanked him for what was probably a more American style tip.  Overall, I thought the food at Besitos was okay, but the disgusting smell in the restroom was a huge turn off.  No one wants to smell diarrhea, especially after eating.  It makes one wonder what caused the fecal explosion.  But then, as we all know, shit happens…

On the way back to our car, I noticed a couple of wine bars on Calwer Strasse that I hadn’t noticed on previous visits.

This one was a tiny hole in the wall, but it looked inviting.

Maybe we’ll have a chance to try both places before it’s time to head north.

  
Anyway, we’ll definitely be back in Stuttgart one more time for a cleaning before we move to Wiesbaden.  I’ll miss being close to this town, which I’ve finally gotten to know.  The first time we lived in Germany, we never went to Stuttgart except for a couple of times.  Thanks to my dental dramas, we’ve come to enjoy visiting on occasion, despite the hellish traffic that surrounds it.  Guess it’s time to become familiar with the ICE train.

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dental

An afternoon in Stuttgart…

Bill and I both had appointments this afternoon to see Dr. Blair in Stuttgart, so he took off work early and picked me up.  We both got dental cleanings and a quick once over by the dentist.  I was supposed to have impressions done for my implant, but the lady who does them has a stomach virus.  Needless to say, I’m glad she called in sick.

Because I didn’t leave Dr. Blair’s office with a bleeding hole in my mouth or in tears, it was a great opportunity for us to wander around the city center.  For some reason, last time we lived near Stuttgart, we didn’t explore the city very much.  I think we had one dinner at a nice restaurant and a visit each to the zoo and the Mercedes Museum.  That was pretty much it.  Dr. Blair’s office is right in the middle of downtown and we had beautiful weather, so Bill and I took a walk around.

We visited a church…

I love how churches in Europe are open so people can just walk in and look around.  We went into the foyer, but I was really hungry, so we didn’t stay long…

Schillerplatz…

We finally ended up at the Markthalle, which my friend Susanne had recommended for food shopping.  She’s right.  It’s a great place to go for fancy foods.  Reminded me slightly of the Dallmayr gourmet market in Munich, only it was less crowded and not quite as hoity toity.

Bill poses by dry aged beef…

We need to come back when it’s time to shop. 

They have everything from fresh fruits and vegetables to meats, candies, liquors, and cheeses.

The area around the Markthalle is very pleasant…

Lots of cafes and trees; plenty of places to sit down and have a drink or a nice meal…

We’ll be back… as soon as next Monday, actually.  I have to go back and get my impressions done.

 

We made our way back to the area near Dr. Blair’s office, passing a guy playing a super fast rendition of the second movement of Beethoven’s “Moonlight Sonata” on an electronic piano.  It was impressively played, but I wondered what his hurry was.  The weather was so perfect and the mood around him was almost languid as people passed.

 

We ended up having dinner at the Paulaner bar in the old post office.  We were lucky because today is the first Monday of the month, which meant they had spare ribs…  It was just what we were in the mood for.

I catch Bill looking naughty.  He said he was smiling like this because some guy belched loudly as he walked into the restaurant.  For once, I didn’t notice.

This beer really went down easy.  Sometimes I get bored with hefeweizens, but when they are fresh from the tap and I’m thirsty, they are just what the doctor ordered.

Bill checks out the “once a month special” spare ribs.  It came with cole slaw and fries…  He brought some home.  They brought him a finger bowl with the funny warning not to drink the lemon water.  I guess someone must have done that, hence the warning.

I had grilled chicken, which is what I’ve been craving for ages…  Mine came with a salad and fries.  the salad included potato salad, which was delicious but seemed almost like overkill.  The chicken was moist, succulent, and absolutely delicious.  We are going to have to go back for sure, especially since it’s so close to the dentist.

 

Cute little Jack Russell Terrier.  She startled me a couple of times with a loud bark, but was otherwise adorable and well behaved.  She was with a large group of guys who seemed like they’d been buddies for a long time.

Smoking is allowed in the restaurant.  There’s also a very nice outdoor seating area.  Don’t know how much longer they’ll keep it open as winter approaches, but a lot of people were enjoying the nice weather today.  Maybe we should have, too, though the inside of the restaurant is very charming.  Service was quick, friendly, and professional; the wait staff was all dressed in traditional garb.  Our final bill was about 39 euros.  Worth every euro cent!  We’ll be back for more!

Maybe we should have sat outside…

All in all, it was a great afternoon in Stuttgart.  We need to go there more often and enjoy what the city has to offer.  We’ll be back twice more in the next week, though, so there will be more photos for sure.

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