Champagne Bucket trips, Eastern Europe

Goodbye, Cesky Krumlov! Hello Brno… part seven of our 2023 Czech tour!

Thursday morning, Bill and I enjoyed our second and last breakfast at Monastery Garden. I decided to have French Toast, while Bill went with a three egg omelette. We had more orange juice and coffee, although on the second morning, Bill skipped the pepper in his juice. Once again, the breakfast was impeccably presented and delicious, and at least in my photos, it looked huge. One friend said it looked like my French Toast would have fed her whole family, although it was just three small pieces. I guess sometimes objects are smaller than they appear in pictures.

We decided to load most of our stuff in the car before breakfast so we could just grab my one big bag, settle up, and be on our way. While we were eating breakfast, we ran into a German couple from Ulm and a British couple who laughed when I quipped that Bill and I sounded like a herd of elephants coming down the stairs.

All told, two nights with breakfast and a bottle of wine cost us about $700 or so. We could have booked a less expensive room, but I really enjoyed the suite we had. Especially since our hotel in Brno promised to be less swanky. After Bill paid, we said goodbye and headed for the car… but then it turned out that Bill needed to break one of the Czech bills he had. So he went back to the lodging, where he ran into his coworker’s family again, having breakfast. They seemed very chipper. I guess they spent one more day in town.

While I was waiting for Bill to return to the car, I watched a young woman who was clearly having trouble exiting the parking lot. The arm wouldn’t raise for her. Every time she unsuccessfully attempted to leave, I watched her heave her chest and dramatically flail her arms. It was the universal sign of frustration. I had a few minutes, so I took some video of the Vltava River while I waited.

Such a peaceful sound…

Soon, we were heading east toward Brno. It was supposed to take about three hours or so, but we had a lunch stop, traffic, and we temporarily got stuck at the gas station from hell. The drive leaving Cesky Krumlov was very pretty and I was enjoying looking at a more side of Czechia. But then Bill started complaining about needing to go to the bathroom. I did notice that there weren’t a lot of official rest stops in Czechia, although we did see some portalets on the side of the road. Bill even used one.

As the minutes passed, Bill became more anxious for a stop somewhere. We both noticed a sign that read “Hamburgery” and featured a photo of a tasty looking sandwich. It was getting close to lunchtime as we entered the town of Obrataň, which is where the advertised hamburger restaurant is located. Bill soon located Bistro Viadukt, which has its own parking behind the unassuming building where it’s located. Little did we know that this place is a local gem and people come from all around to eat there. We just needed a toilet for Bill.

We went into the sparsely decorated eatery and Bill took care of business. The proprietors didn’t speak English at all, but they did have menus in several languages, including German and English. We successfully ordered two cheeseburgers, a beer for me, and a soft drink for Bill. And then we proceeded to enjoy two delicious burgers that were a bit too rare for our usual liking, but tasted great. I think Bill was a bit worried about how rare the meat was, but there were several locals in there who were really enjoying themselves. And as it turned out, neither of us got sick.

As we were eating, a young couple came in with an adorable Jack Russell terrier and a baby. I couldn’t help but notice the woman was more interested in the dog, while the man tended to the baby. I kind of wondered what their story was. Several other people came in. They were obvious regulars and bantered with the kind lady behind the cash register.

They had a few items on the menu other than burgers that looked interesting. Bill liked the look of the soup they were serving, but he didn’t know how to order it. The chef had come out and, for simplicity’s sake, we both got the same thing. I must admit, the burger was very impressive– and it was obvious the patties were hand formed, rather than molded. It was a very successful stop. I liked the steak fries, too. They were delicious and there weren’t too many of them to finish.

The rest of our drive was pretty routine until we got to the gas station from hell. Bill fueled up and had a brief argument with the attendant, who wanted him to buy the more premium gas. After fueling up the car, Bill moved to the other side of the gas station for a potty break. While we were relieving ourselves, some trucker decided to try to park his rig in the area designated for cars. I watched Bill’s face get more sour and irritated as he nervously watched the trucker trying to maneuver scarily close to our Volvo. Fortunately, there wasn’t an accident, and we were able to move out of his way… only to get stuck in a veritable wall of trucks that went on for miles.

Soon enough, we got away from the truckers from hell and started seeing the familiar cookie cutter pastel colored apartment buildings of Brno. It’s still a pretty eastern European city, more so than Prague is. Welcome to the East!

We found our hotel, JeÅ¡tÄ›Brno, which was very highly rated on TripAdvisor, but located outside of the downtown area. In some ways, this location was a good thing, as we had free parking and proximity to a grocery store, restaurants, a vinotek, and even an ophthalmologist’s office. I had already checked us in online, so the receptionist had our keys ready for us, although at this hotel, you don’t even really need keys. The doors are all operated by a code, which if you have memorized it, makes the use of key cards mostly unnecessary. You just punch in the code with a pound sign, a female voice says, “unlocked”, and you’re good to go.

I booked us a “big as Brno” room, which had a little terrace, a fridge, a large TV, and a sofa, as well as a handy fridge. We were also supposed to get spa access at the nearby health club, but that proved to be too cumbersome for us to access. I understand that if you don’t pay for spa access, you can get it by paying a rate. But the pool and spa were only available at certain times of day which weren’t convenient for us. So we didn’t get to try the spa.

Other than that, the room was pretty nice. It had most everything we’d need, except for maybe a microwave. The hotel had an honesty bar, included buffet breakfast, and some services such as limited room service. We booked three nights, which was about right. Maybe it would have been nice to stay one extra night in Brno, but we actually managed to do a lot during our time there. More on that in the next post.

Below are some photos of our room…

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art, Champagne Bucket trips, Eastern Europe, languages

Eating and shopping in Cesky Krumlov… part six of our 2023 Czech tour!

After a busy morning of visiting museums and climbing the Castle Tower, we were ready for some lunch. I wanted something other than heavy Czech fare, but I didn’t want pizza. We ended up at an Italian restaurant in the middle of town called Pizzeria Latran, which offered pasta dishes as well as pizzas. Looking back on it, I almost wish we had gotten a pizza there, as they looked and smelled great, and I was able to watch a female employee baking them in a wood fired oven that was visible from the dining room. But even when we share a single pizza, Bill and I usually don’t finish them in one sitting. Also, I don’t typically like the cheese used on most of the German pizzas I’ve tried here and I didn’t know if the same cheese would be used in Czechia.

I had a clandestine laugh at the very obviously American party near us. Two people in their party of four had ordered pizzas. When they were brought to their table, I heard one of them exclaim, “Oh, my STARS!” Ha ha ha… such an American thing to say. Naturally, she couldn’t finish the damned thing and had to take it with her!

Our waiter was a tall guy who spoke perfect English and looked a little over things. But I think we might have won him over, because we knew what we wanted and didn’t bother him for anything but more glasses of Montepulciano. 😉 I had a really nice Caserecce con Pollo e Salsa Creola– which was basically a pasta dish with chicken, smoked pancetta, tomato sauce, cream, and fresh orange juice. Bill had spaghetti carbonara. Both dishes were very satisfying and we took our time enjoying them over lovely Italian red wine and sparkling water. I was quite relaxed when we were finished with lunch sometime later.

After lunch we decided to wander around some more and buy a few souvenirs. Before we got too far away from the restaurant, my ears were enchanted by the sound of someone playing the banjo with impressive skill. I don’t like to video buskers directly, so I recorded the river as he played. I felt like I was home in hillbilly Virginia!

This guy was a great player! I wish he’d had a CD.

We rounded a corner and noticed an art gallery. One of my big goals for this particular road trip was finding some new art for our house. When we were in Germany the first time (07-09), we bought some art in Eastern Europe. But so far, during this stint, we haven’t been buying as much art for the house. I wanted to rectify that with this trip. So we went into the art gallery and started looking around… I saw a lot of the usual landscape paintings and modern interpretations. Then I rounded a corner and, sure enough, my eyes landed on a painting I had to have!

I wish I’d thought to take a photo of it before we bought it, as the proprietor rolled it up. We’re going to take it to Wiesbaden to get it framed, hopefully tomorrow, but possibly later. I saw another painting of a silvery winter scene in Cesky Krumlov that I couldn’t live without, so we bought both paintings. The winter scene painting came with a frame and is now hanging in my living room. When we get the other one framed, I will try to remember to share photos of both works of art. I think the proprietor was absolutely delighted. It was the end of her workday and we came in and bought two paintings without batting an eye.

We walked back to the room to put the paintings away and take a short rest, then we went out again. We bought chocolates from a chocolatier and stopped by another gallery, where we bought some handmade Czech toys for Bill’s grandchildren. The woman who helped us in that shop was Greek and she told us she speaks a bunch of languages. It turned out her German was better than her English, so Bill spoke German to her.

We looked around some more for a watering hole but didn’t find anywhere that called out to us, so we headed back to our room. Bill bought a bottle of wine from the honesty bar at Monastery Garden and I reminded one of the workers there what a corkscrew is. It was pretty funny… she kept trying to call it a screwdriver! Bill told her it was a “wine tool”, and I said, “No, that’s a corkscrew!”

The lady laughed and said, “Yes, that’s it! Thank you!”

Sad how Europeans put Americans to shame when it comes to learning languages. I’d be hard pressed to identify a corkscrew in Czech!

We were set to leave the charming town of Cesky Krumlov the next morning, so we decided to get a good night’s rest. I hated to go, although you really can do a proper visit of Cesky Krumlov in a day or two. We didn’t see everything, though, so that means we can come back a third time. If we do, I wouldn’t hesitate to book Monastery Gardens again. Especially now that we know where P2 is.

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Champagne Bucket trips, Eastern Europe

Our day in Cesky Krumlov… part five of our 2023 Czech tour!

Wednesday, October 4, was our one full day in beautiful Cesky Krumlov. We were determined to make the best of it. After a good night’s sleep in the big bed in Room 6, we went down to the big table in the lobby and had the first of two wonderful breakfasts. Bill decided to try the fermented wheat, which was described as an “original” breakfast offering at Monastery Garden. The receptionist who had checked us in the day prior was there for breakfast, and she explained that it’s not difficult to make fermented wheat… but the process is “quite stinky”.

I’ve mentioned before that Bill seems to like things that stink… like exotic cheese and probably even me after a particularly active afternoon. 😉 I have a very sensitive sense of smell, though, so I can’t abide a lot of things he enjoys. I wouldn’t have ordered the fermented wheat anyway, because it had mushrooms in it, and mushrooms are of the devil. I didn’t notice that the dish smelled offensive; it came with poached eggs, and Bill seemed to really enjoy it.

I had Eggs Benedict, which were absolutely fabulous. I especially loved the way the dish was presented, with super sweet cherry tomatoes and greens. It was almost too beautiful to eat.

We also had filtered coffee and fresh squeezed orange juice, which was served to us whipped into a foam. On the menu, it mentioned that the juice could be served with “chili” pepper. I asked about that, since I’d never heard of anyone putting pepper in their juice. The receptionist said that some people like to use it to heat up their metabolisms. I joked that I could use a little of that myself, but I decided not to try pepper in my juice. Bill, who likes things spicy and hot, did put some in his juice. He didn’t complain about it, but I noticed he didn’t add pepper to the juice the next morning! Breakfast was not included in our room rate, but it was well worth what we paid.

While we were eating, we were chatting with the receptionist about the pandemic and how things were in the Czech Republic. I had read that they had been pretty strict there during the worst of the COVID era… which I guess is still ongoing. She said that a lot of Czechs were kind of slack about following the mandates. I would imagine that the way the pandemic was handled in Europe was very different than it was in the United States.

After breakfast, we started to explore and soon found ourselves at the Museum of Torture, which is on the main square. We bought a combination ticket with the Wax Museum, which gave us a couple of activities for our morning. The Museum of Torture was mostly interesting, although parts of it were a little cheesy. Like, for instance, at one part of the museum, there’s an exhibit that shows a woman suspected of being a witch being burned at the stake. They played an endless sound loop of flames and the whimperings of a suffering female. It was a little hokey and probably unrealistic, given how much being burned hurts, at least at first.

I have to admit, I was pretty horrified by how cruel human beings can be to one another as I looked at all of the instruments of torture used to punish people in the medieval era. I also couldn’t help but remember when we visited the superior torture museum in Rothenburg ob den Tauber in Bavaria, Germany. The one thing the museum in Cesky Krumlov has over the museum in Rothenburg is that it’s in a very cool dungeon like building that appears to be very old. The building definitely gave the torture museum some realism. Below are some photos…

Just a little bit hokey…

After we spent some time in the torture museum, we moved on to the wax museum, which was also entertaining. The museum had some interesting replicas of celebrities– many of whom were (or still are) American. The wax museum also provided a narrative of Czech history, although perhaps not as well as the Castle museum did. Still, I think it was worth visiting just to see the wax versions of Mick Jagger and Tina Turner. I have a soft spot for wax museums anyway. My dad’s hometown of Natural Bridge, Virginia had one for many years and one of my distant relatives, Bar Tolley, was immortalized there. 😉 Below are some photos from the wax museum.

By the time we finished touring the two museums, it was late morning. We kept walking around Cesky Krumlov, which basically goes in a circle, and soon found ourselves as a bench offering a nice view of the Vltava River, which flows through both Prague and Cesky Krumlov. We were still sitting there at noon, which happened to be the time and day of the month when local authorities throughout the country test the sirens. I noticed an announcement in Czech and English that it was “only a test”. That’s more than we get in Germany.

Finally, we worked our way to the castle entrance, where we were able to see the bears that “guard” the moat. I remembered how when we came to Cesky Krumlov in 2008, I saw the bears. I also remembered that there was a guy at the bottom of the castle tower who took our money and advised us to go “slowly”. Now, there’s a big complex at the Castle Tower, and visitors can buy tickets to the museum and the interior of the actual castle. We skipped touring the castle interior, but we did visit and enjoy the museum after we climbed the tower. The tower wasn’t too awful, either. I was able climb it without too much trouble and was rewarded with some very nice photos.

After we visited the castle and its tower, we were ready to eat lunch. Since this post has so many photos in it, I will continue writing about our Wednesday activities in the next post! Suffice to say, looking at these pictures, I feel very fortunate that we had such nice weather. There were plenty of people in Cesky Krumlov during our visit, but it wasn’t extremely crowded. I bet the place is now PACKED in the summer! I think October is a great time to visit this town.

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