Burgundy

Alsace and Burgundy… Snips and snails and puppy dog tails! pt. 5

Last October, Bill and I spent Columbus Day weekend in a cute little Hexagonal Tower in a town called Semur-en-Auxois.  While I was searching for that property, I saw another gite located further south that interested me.  The place is called Gite de la Maison Bleue and it’s located in a tiny little town called Saint Marcelin-de-Cray.  Now, before we visited this charming area, we had no idea of what was in Saint Marcelin-de-Cray.  In fact, having grown up in Gloucester, Virginia, I could almost say that our visit was kind of the equivalent of a French person vacationing in my hometown.  It’s what one might call “The real France”.

Anyway, I chose this particular property because it got amazing reviews on Booking.com and the pictures of it were awesome.  Also, it’s very dog friendly, which we needed because we brought Zane and Arran with us.  When I booked the property, it was going for just 90 euros a night.  There was supposed to be a 90 euro “security deposit”, but I don’t think our hosts ever collected it from us.

To get to Saint Marcelin-de-Cray, we had to drive about four hours south of Alsace, mostly on high speed roads.  Then, we drove for another hour or so on a smaller road through many quaint towns on Burgundy’s wine route.  I would have loved to have stopped for a couple of tastings.  Maybe next time, if we don’t have the dogs with us.  Or maybe even if we do.  Sophie and Jean Pierre, the people who own the gite where we stayed, were fine with us leaving the boys alone while we went out for lunch.

We did have problems actually getting to the gite.  Our GPS was not finding the property.  We had to call Sophie, whose heavily accented English is a bit rusty.  Jean Pierre speaks no English whatsoever. Fortunately, our years of living in Germany and visiting France have made us pretty good at figuring things out.  After driving around for awhile, we finally found our accommodations at the top of a serene hill.

There’s no need to worry about parking or poop bags.  Gite de la Maison Bleue is a working farm, so there’s poop everywhere.  Animal lovers will delight in the three horses, three llamas, nanny goat, donkey, rabbits, two dogs, cat, two sheep, chickens, ducks, geese, and a pig who currently has seven little piglets.  This place is also a snail farm and in the summer, you can go and get your fill of escargot.  As a matter of fact, we had occasion to try snails during our visit.  Much to my surprise, they didn’t gross me out.  In fact, I even enjoyed them.

This was one of the two bedrooms.  We slept on this bed in the beautifully decorated room.  I’m happy to report that both beds are king sized and comfortable.  A local artist has placed a number of his pieces throughout the gite.  You can purchase them and they are reasonably priced.  I spotted a couple I wanted to buy and I will be hitting up the artist’s email and making the request.

 

The other bedroom, which we didn’t use.  There was a flatscreen TV in there and down in the kitchen. WiFi is free, but rather spotty.  Also, the password is the longest I have ever seen!  

The kitchen was outfitted with all you’d need, except a freezer.  I’m sure if you needed to freeze something, the hosts would oblige.  Right off of the kitchen is a terrace, where you can sit and gaze at the beautiful view pictured below.  There is also a wood chip heater, which came in handy.

A view of the super cool “tower”, which you can climb to the top of for even better views of the valley and mountains.  The shower in this place is great, too.  It has a rainfall head, as well as three jets and a handheld nozzle.

Some of the animals we shared quarters with…

This morning’s sunrise was lovely.

 

We had a bit of a mishap during our first night.  Jean Pierre brought over some snails for us and came into the gite to help us prepare them.  On his way out, he wasn’t quick to close the door.  Our little rascal, Zane, managed to escape.  It was getting dark out and the air was thick with new smells.  We spent about twenty scary minutes trying to round up our wayward dog.  Fortunately, Zane got distracted by a light and a big hunk of French bread.  He had it in his mouth when Bill brought him inside.  I swear Zane was smiling, too.  As much as it scares me when he gets loose, I was actually glad to see it on one level.  A few months ago, he didn’t have nearly the energy level he’s had lately.  A change of diet and some medicines have given him new life.

So these were the snails we had.  They had lots of garlic butter in them and reminded me a bit of haggis.  I probably wouldn’t order them as a matter of course, but they weren’t bad at all.

I kept taking pictures of the valley, but I don’t think I quite captured how beautiful it really is.

The boys loved the terrace, where they could hang out.  There is no extra charge for pets.  In fact, they are warmly welcomed, even if they’re loud and try to escape.  

Our hosts gave us fresh eggs from their chickens.  

I had to get a picture of the sound system.  It had a turntable and a CD player.  

This is not a great picture of the top of the tower, but it’s a super cool feature of this property.  You can look at the splendor of the countryside from every direction.

Our first breakfast.  Bill went to the next town for the croissants and clementine juice.

A picture of the house from the pasture.  The gite is attached to Sophie’s and Jean Pierre’s home, but that’s not a problem at all.  

I have much more to write about our experience in the next post.  If you’re an animal lover, stay tuned!

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Burgundy, Ten Things I Learned

Ten things I learned on my trip to Semur En Auxois, France…

Whenever Bill and I take trips, I like to think of ten things I learned.  I have found that travel is one of the best ways to learn new things, meet new people, and expand horizons.  Although Semur En Auxois was not on my top ten list of places I wanted to see, we really enjoyed our weekend there.  And so, in the interest of promoting this underrated town, I give you the top ten things we learned on our trip to Semur En Auxois, France.

10.  There are still places in western Europe where not everyone speaks English.  I know some people will say that the French purposely choose not to speak English, and maybe that’s true sometimes.  I didn’t find it to be true in Semur En Auxois.  Everyone we ran into was pleasant, though not necessarily fluent in English.  Frankly, I found it very refreshing, even though it made communicating more difficult.

9.  In France, you can go to the grocery store on Sunday!  It’s true that things do shut down for the “day of rest”, but people have to have their croissants.  So, if you also need to load up on wine or cheese for the ride back to Germany, you may very well be able to stop in.  I’m not sure if this is true in every part of France, but it was in Semur En Auxois, which I would not consider to be a tourist mecca.

8.  It can be very rewarding to wander among small towns and just soak in the local flavor.  It’s true that this particular trip was not of the Clark W. Griswold variety.  We didn’t make a point of seeing all of the things we could have seen.  But we did get to see some very charming French villages and enjoy some wonderful scenery.  Sometimes, it’s good to just soak up the atmosphere.

7.  Cheese that smells like feet apparently tastes fantastic.   This is according to my husband, Bill, who likes that sort of thing.  If you like unusual and stinky cheeses, France is your place!  As for me, pass the Monterrey Jack and make sure it’s melted.

6.  Europeans aren’t into spaying and neutering their pets the way Americans are.  Although people have given us strange looks in Germany for having two dogs sans testicles, it wasn’t until we went to France that we learned why.  At least in Germany, there is a law that prohibits removing organs from animals for non medical reasons, although it doesn’t seem to be heavily enforced and exceptions can be made.  Europeans seem to be opposed to the practice of spaying and neutering in general.  I just found a five year old article that explains that neutering your dog is actually illegal in Norway.  Interesting!  This revelation ranks right up there with learning that many German men sit down to pee when they’re at home.

5.  Free parking and free WCs!  Although I know free potties and parking are not necessarily the norm in France, we did find them both to be a lot more plentiful there than in Germany.  On the other hand, prepare to pay tolls on the motorways!

4.  Even if you don’t speak French, you can have rewarding conversations…  See my reference to spaying and neutering above, which came about as we were chatting with an elderly French lady who wondered where our dogs’ balls were.  Of course, we could have misinterpreted.  Incidentally, we also saw a local guy walking by wearing a t-shirt that read “This is my Halloween costume.”  We count that as another bizarre occurrence during our travels (and we always have at least one on every trip we take).

3.  My French isn’t as bad as I thought it was.  Which isn’t to say that it’s good at all.  I just understood more than I would have expected.  I definitely need to study it, though.  But I also need to study German.  Why couldn’t I have spent two years in a country where I would have learned French instead of Eastern Armenian?  Just my luck, I guess.

2.  Even obscure towns are worth seeing.  My guess is that most Americans have never heard of Semur En Auxois.  Most Americans would prefer to visit Paris, Lyon, Nice, or Normandy.  We had a very good time in rural France.  It was an authentic experience that I would highly recommend to other Americans if they have the means and the opportunity.  Just pick a small town and go.  You may surprise yourself by what you’ll end up learning and seeing.

1.  France is wonderful.  I will admit, my very first impressions of France in 1995 were quite unfavorable.  I spent a whole, miserable, jet lagged day stuck at Charles de Gaulle airport where I was treated rudely.  However, every time I have gone back to France, and there have been many times since 1995, I have fallen more in love with the country.  There’s a lot to love about France and I hope we can go back again soon.  I kind of feel the same way about New York City.  I hated my first visit, but loved it more with each subsequent trip.  By the time we move back to the States, I will probably be madly in love with France.

France is beautiful, even when the sun isn’t shining!

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