adventure, Brussels, Champagne Bucket trips, Paris, Ten Things I Learned

Ten things I learned in Brussels and Paris…

Here we are, at the end of my latest series. I always end my travel series with a list of ten things I learned. It offers me a chance to reflect on the intangible blessings I take with me every time I travel. I may not buy a single souvenir, but I learn new things every time I venture out. These lists are also better read, because they’re much more concise than my exhaustive blow by blow accounts. So… here’s my list of things I learned on our trip to Brussels and Paris.

10. The Atomium is well worth a visit, even though getting there from downtown Brussels takes some time.

Our decision to visit the Atomium, a very cool looking structure that was built for the 1958 World’s Fair, was not something we planned. We decided to go there, kind of on a whim. I didn’t know what to expect when we got there, but I really enjoyed our visit. I got some great photos, and loved the music and light show.

*Don’t miss the Atomium if you visit Brussels!*

9. If you are approached by a “taxi driver” at an airport or a train station, don’t take the bait.

We were “taken for a ride” in Paris. Although no real harm was done, we spent a lot more euros than we needed to. Always take rides from licensed taxi drivers! French law requires all taxi drivers to accept credit cards and have working credit card machines in their vehicles.

8. Thalys has been taken over by Eurostar.

But if you take a Eurostar train, you will likely see Thalys branding. The current experience on Eurostar is pretty much the same as it always was with Thalys.

7. If you have an American credit card and want to buy metro tickets in Paris, you might want to pay cash.

I’m not 100 percent sure, but I don’t think the Paris ticket machines are compatible with US credit cards. Paying cash can also be problematic, because I noticed one of the machines we tried to use also wasn’t taking cash. To be honest, I’ve never had a smooth experience using the Paris metro, but that might just be me.

6. Visit the Friets Museum!

We had so much fun at the Friets Museum. I didn’t have high hopes for it, but it really is a fun place to spend some time, especially if you have kids. There are lots of interactive exhibits that are fun and educational. Sadly, I didn’t find the related Choco Story Brussels museum as good. Yes, Choco Story was worth visiting (especially for the samples), but the Friets was more fun for me.

5. If you like beer, definitely visit the Beer Museum in Brussels.

You can’t miss it, because it’s in a huge, grand building in downtown Brussels. The exhibits are fun and interactive, and it’s a good way to spend an hour or two.

4. The Eiffel Tower is well worth the trip, but next time, I might just visit the second floor.

This past visit to Paris was my third. The first two times, I skipped going up the Eiffel Tower. This time, we decided to do it right, and we went all the way to the top and drank champagne. If I do it again, I might skip going to the top. I don’t think the views are better, and it’s very crowded. But I am glad we went to the top this time, so I can say I’ve finally done it!

3. There’s something to be said for exploring whatever neighborhood you’re in…

During this trip to Paris, we stayed in the Montmartre neighborhood. I knew nothing about this part of Paris before we visited, but it offered a very different view of the city than Montparnasse, which is where we stayed in 2009. I enjoyed exploring the area, especially since we went to the Salvador Dali museum.

2. Salvador Dali’s famous melting clock was inspired by melting Camembert cheese!

I learned a lot by visiting the Salvador Dali museum in Paris, including what inspired him to create his famous “melting clocks”.

And finally, 1. A visit to Paris and Brussels beats going to Napa Valley, California, especially if you live in Europe…

Well, I can’t say I “learned” this. I mean, it’s pretty obvious, especially nowadays. I’d much rather visit European capitals than go to California and deal with the chaos in the United States. I will mention, too, that in spite of what has been going on in the United States, I have not encountered any hostility in Europe because I’m from the United States. However, I do recommend that any Americans visiting Europe keep a low profile. I would recommend that for any visit to Europe, though, not just in these bizarre Trump times.

We did have an excellent trip to Brussels and Paris, in spite of experiencing a few mishaps. It was just so nice to get away from Germany for awhile, hear a different language, enjoy changes in scenery, and do it all by train, so we didn’t have to worry about a car. I wish I’d made more of an effort to look for some art, especially in Paris. I need something new to put on our walls. But I’ve heard that at the end of the month, actor Johnny Depp is exhibiting some of his art in Wiesbaden, so maybe we’ll attend the exhibition.

So that does it for my Brussels and Paris series! Thanks so much to everyone who followed along!

Baden-Württemberg, short breaks, Ten Things I Learned

Ten things I learned in Waiblingen…

As always, I’m wrapping up my Waiblingen series with a list of ten things I learned on our trip. I do this to remind myself that every time we go somewhere new, I discover more things about the world and its people. I’ve also noticed that readers seem to like these lists because they’re quick and dirty. Not everyone likes my blow by blow accounts. So here goes…

10. Waiblingen is OLD.

Waiblingen has existed since about 885, and has been a town since 1250. If you walk around the old part of Waiblingen, you will see remnants of its former city walls, which date from 1250.

9. Waiblingen has several really decent restaurants… food wise, anyway. I’m sure service will get there soon.

One of the reasons I chose to stay in Waiblingen is because there are several good restaurants there. We had the chance to try two of them, Bachofer and Untere Apotheke. My German friend has informed me that, Pablo Fernandez, the Spanish-German proprietor of Untere Apotheke, which is just behind Bachofer, did an apprenticeship at Bachofer. She also told me that Mr. Fernandez, who was very pleasant to meet, has also opened a new restaurant in Stuttgart, called Weinstube Vetter. It looks like Mr. Fernandez took over a venerable establishment that already had a long history in Stuttgart.

8. The Bachofer Restaurant and Hotel is in the second oldest house in Waiblingen. It dates from 1647!

According to the official Web site:

The former pharmacy, dating back to 1647, is the second oldest house in Waiblingen and a true architectural gem. The completely redesigned rooms create an exciting contrast to the historic timber framing and send our guests the message that is very important to us: please feel at home!

7. Waiblingen is very convenient to Stuttgart.

Of course, I knew that when I chose to book there, but our trip to Dr. Blair’s office proved it to me. Unfortunately, Stuttgart gets called “STAUgart” for a reason, so being close doesn’t necessarily mean the trip to the inner city will be quick and easy. Fortunately, there is a train.

6. Waiblingen has several “twin cities”, including Virginia Beach, Virginia, which is not far from where I grew up.

5. Wednesday and Saturday are market days in Waiblingen.

We were lucky enough to get to Waiblingen at the tail end of the market on Wednesday, and there for the whole market on Saturday. I enjoyed seeing the vendors, the friendly locals chatting with each other, and hearing the buskers. I love this about Europe. Most towns have markets, and so often, there’s wine, music, and fresh produce to be had. I know some American towns do this, but it’s just not the same!

4. Waiblingen’s cool old town hall dates from 1476!

The town hall was first mentioned in 1476 and was rebuilt in 1597. Sometime around 1870, plans were made to tear down the building and build something new, as the town hall was no longer able to serve the needs of the growing town. But the people realized that tearing down the town hall would alter the appearance of the market square significantly. They also liked the unusual arcade under the building. So it stayed and served in other capacities, such as a school for elementary aged boys, a trade school, and later, adult education classes. There used to be a restaurant there, but it is now closed.

3. The city park is well worth visiting, especially near the church…

Need I say more? Bring your kids and your dogs! They’ll have a great time.

2. Even though Waiblingen is charming, and it has a public WC, you might still see someone urinating in public.

I don’t think I mentioned this when I wrote my post about Saturday, but during our walk around the city, we did encounter someone urinating publicly on a post. In this case, it was a small boy who was unabashedly relieving himself. I guess it shouldn’t have surprised me as much as it did.

And finally, 1. When the weather is good, there are things to do in Waiblingen!

Because Bill was taking courses for the Jung Institute, and the weather was a bit cold and wet, we didn’t do as much exploring as I would have liked. But I see from Waiblingen’s official page, when the weather is fine, a person can occupy themselves with many fun, challenging, and educational activities. And there’s also some pretty good shopping there!

So that about does it for my Waiblingen series. I don’t know if we’ll have a chance to visit there again. I wouldn’t be against going back to Waiblingen, if the opportunity arises someday. It really is a charming little town that offers a nice alternative to staying in Stuttgart. I would recommend it, not just for people who aren’t living in Germany, but also for people living in Stuttgart who would like to enjoy good food in a laid back atmosphere. If you have too much wine, you can even stay overnight at the Bachofer, or the Holiday Inn Express… I think I noticed another little hotel, too. It’s definitely not a bad idea for a quick weekend away in a place a lot of people miss!

I hope you enjoyed this series. See you next post!

Bavaria, Ten Things I Learned

Ten things I learned in Würzburg and Bamberg…

Although I’ve been to Bavaria a few times over the years I’ve lived in Germany, I haven’t spent that much time in the Franconia area of the state. The one exception is when Bill and I went to Rothenburg ob der Tauber, back in January 2018. We had a great time on that trip, in part because we had a really nice rental house in town. Rothenburg is a very touristy town, even in January, which is definitely the low season. Würzburg and Bamberg are not nearly as touristy, but they’re both well worth seeing– in part, because they’re not so touristy!

I like to write ten things I learned posts to wrap up my trips. This one is no exception. So here it is– ten things I learned in Würzburg and Bamberg.

10. If you like Rauchbier, you must visit Bamberg!

I realize that not everyone has had the chance to try Rauchbier (smoked beer). And those who have tried it, might not like it. Personally, I really enjoyed Rauchbier made by the Aecht Schlenkerla Brewery in Bamberg. It reminded me of a more flavorful Guinness. And it’s even better when it’s on draft.

9. Sylvaner wines are popular in Franconia.

As we learned during our visit to Weingut am Stein, Sylvaner wines are not as well known or popular as, say, Rieslings are. But they are a very lovely grape varietal, and Würzburg is a great place to try wines made with them.

*Sylvaner wines are easily explored in Franconia…*

8. Bamberg is a very doable day trip from Würzburg… or vice versa.

I had been wanting to visit Bamberg, but since we were going to be bringing Bill’s mom, we needed accommodations beyond a hotel room for two. I decided to book the guest house in Würzburg, because we like our wine, and because the cities aren’t far apart. Yes, we could have driven to Bamberg, but the train offers a very convenient mode of transportation. I just wish we’d had better weather.

*It’s so easy to take a train to Bamberg or vice versa.* *They run hourly.*

7. February weather makes visiting Franconia kind of iffy…

Okay, so I knew the weather might be a problem. Years of living in Germany will do that to you. At least it wasn’t freezing cold, as it very well could have been. But we had a lot of rain, which made visiting in February less pleasant. On the other hand, it also meant a lot fewer tourists.

6. Würzburg is a great town if you love architecture and churches.

Every day, I was amazed by the many beautifully designed buildings and landmarks in Würzburg. Our vantage point at the guest house really made for some awesome views. Once again, I want to go back when the sun is shining! It’s also a place to see ramps made of Legos for a good cause!

5. The Würzburger Residenz is a must see… and that’s another reason why I want to return.

We never did get a chance to tour the Residenz, other than its massive parking lot. Our wine tasting guide told us that it’s an hour or two well spent. English tours are available. Next time, we will make a point of going inside and seeing all of the riches of the impressive Residenz in Würzburg.

4. And so is the Rathaus in Bamberg…

I really feel badly for not giving Bamberg more time. Its old Rathaus is not only adorable and unique, but it also has a porcelain museum that I’m pretty sure I would have liked to have seen. But at least I got a couple of stormy shots.

*So beautiful! And there’s more to see.*

3. There’s something to be said for family time, too…

Bill knows his mom won’t be around forever, so time with her is precious. We’re fortunate in that she is still very healthy and vibrant, and she gets around well. It’s an honor to spend a few days talking to Bill’s mom… and celebrating a new baby’s birth with her. Especially if you know our complicated history with Bill’s daughters…

2. We’ll do better next time we visit…

I really think our timing was off for this trip. February isn’t the best time to visit anywhere in Germany, unless you’re going skiing or something. And nowadays, even that’s kind of an iffy proposal. But February is when Parker was able to come over here, so there we are. Maybe next time we see her, my stomach will be better, too.

*Vineyards, beautiful buildings, historic attractions, Lego ramps, and shopping…* *we have reasons to return!*

1. Franconia is only 90 minutes away from where we live, and it’s different…

I think we should try to visit there for a day, if we can’t do another trip. It’s harder to do long day trips with dogs, but Noyzi’s easy enough. He likes the Hundepension, but he also likes road trips. On the other hand, if all goes well, he will have a buddy soon. So we’ll see what happens. I do think that anyone reading from Stuttgart or the Rheinland Pfalz areas should consider doing a quick trip to Franconia. I think it would make a great girls’ weekend location.

That about does it for this series. Thanks to everyone who followed along with me! Time to go pack a bag for our overnight trip to Stuttgart.

Schwarzwald, Ten Things I Learned

Ten things I learned in Bareiss style Baiersbronn…

Now that my latest blog series about Hotel Bareiss is complete, here’s my usual “ten things I learned” post. I find that these top ten lists tend to get read more than my “blow by blow” posts. Let’s face it! People don’t necessarily care about the minutiae of someone else’s vacation. On the other hand, sometimes including the small details is useful for some readers, or even just to myself, as I get older and duller. 😉

Anyway, here’s my list, even though we’ve done Baiersbronn before. I see that I didn’t do a ten things I learned list for our first Baiersbronn trip, so maybe it’s good to do one now. Here goes!

10. The Hotel Bareiss experience reminds me a little of being on a cruise ship.

The first time we visited Baiersbronn for more than a couple of hours, we stayed at Hotel Engel Obertal, which is a perfectly nice hotel that offers half board. But that hotel didn’t seem to be nearly as structured as Hotel Bareiss is. Yes, lunch was included in the daily rate there, but we didn’t feel like we HAD to eat lunch there. Although we didn’t HAVE to eat dinner at Hotel Bareiss either, the very heavy service component and knowing that we were paying for the food, anyway, made us feel obligated to eat there. And while it wasn’t a bad thing at all to dine at Hotel Bareiss, that aspect made me feel a little like I was on a cruise ship. The resort offers a lot of activities, too, like a cruise ship does.

9. Hotel Bareiss is very expensive, but offers an extremely high quality product.

When I compare Hotel Bareiss to Hotel Engel Obertal, I see some obvious similarities. However, Hotel Bareiss is an institution in Baiersbronn, and people come from all over to experience it. Service is mostly top notch, and they put a lot of effort into presenting a very pleasant experience for guests. That experience will cost you, of course! But if you have the means, and you just want to relax without worrying about anything, Hotel Bareiss might be just the place to go.

8. I wouldn’t call Hotel Bareiss a very “romantic” place for couples…

Although this is a five star resort hotel with a three star Michelin restaurant, it’s also a very family friendly place. There are lots of activities available for children, and they aren’t specifically prohibited from going into places. That means you might see them in the bar, or even in the sauna area. However, I did notice that visiting in late September/early October meant that most kids were in school, so their population was at a minimum during our stay. I would not book Bareiss in the summer if I was wanting to avoid running into families with children, though.

7. Baiersbronn and the Black Forest offer a lot to do outdoors. But maybe there are not as many things to do inside. Planning for the weather is a good idea.

We suffered some rain during our visit, which made us not really want to venture out so much. A lot of the things I was thinking I’d like to do were strictly outside activities. There are some museums and other indoor activities for the resourceful, and the hotel offers excursions to nearby places like Strasbourg, France or Baden-Baden. The hotel also offers classes sometimes. For instance, they have culinary and wine courses that can be booked. I didn’t mind the rain so much, since we had such a hot, dry summer. Next time, maybe I’ll look for more inside opportunities, in case of inclement weather. Or, at the very least, I would bring clothes and shoes for wet weather. Baiersbronn is kind of a sleepy town, but there are other areas nearby that are well worth a visit.

6. Bring an extra bathing suit!

Hotel Bareiss has an AWESOME pool area, and it’s usable all year. If you like to swim or relax in the water, you may want to bring an extra bathing suit. They also have a dryer in the locker room that will wring most of the the water out in eight seconds.

5. You can bring your dog!

Although I tend to relax more when I travel without our dogs, I did miss them while we were at the Hotel Bareiss. I think Noyzi, in particular, would have loved the hotel. So many people brought their beautiful pooches with them, and there were a lot of amenities for them, including dog sitting! But bear in mind, if you do bring your dog, there are steep extra charges involved and not every room will be available to you.

4. Pack a nice outfit or two.

The Hotel Bareiss requests that guests dress nicely for dinner. That doesn’t necessarily mean putting on a dress or a suit, nor does it even mean they’ll turn you away at the door. But if you happen to be at the hotel on gala night, you will want to be dressy, as most people do put on their gladrags for the occasion. If you wear jeans and a sweatshirt, you might feel quite underdressed.

3. Don’t be afraid to try other area restaurants.

Baiersbronn is home to quite a few excellent restaurants besides the ones at Hotel Bareiss. Most are affiliated with other hotels, to include the ones at Hotel Traube Tonbach, another highly regarded hotel in the area. We ate at Traube Tonbach last year and had a very nice experience. We also tried the Meierei, which has a Michelin Plate, and liked that even more than the Michelin starred restaurant at the Traube Tonbach. But even if you aren’t into gourmet food, you can find really good eating in Baiersbronn. Especially if you like fresh trout, like I do!

2. You don’t have to spend a mint to stay in Baiersbronn…

It’s true that we dropped a load of euros at Hotel Bareiss. This year’s visit was about twice as expensive as last year’s, although we also stayed a day longer and in fancier digs. But if we’d wanted to, we could have easily bunked comfortably in less extravagant lodging and had a great time. In fact, in some ways, I think I might have preferred a less “structured” holiday. I don’t think I’m that into resorts and half board plans. I like having the freedom to try different places and do my own thing. Maybe next time we go to the Black Forest, we’ll try to find a self catering apartment in a different area.

1. On the other hand, I would NOT turn down another visit to Hotel Bareiss…

It really is a lovely hotel, with friendly and mostly professional staff, and magical surroundings. We absolutely did enjoy ourselves, and would heartily recommend that others visit. Just remember that when you book Hotel Bareiss, you’re likely to be committed to going. You may wish to purchase travel insurance, in case you need to cancel. In our situation, I was worried about Arran being sick with lymphoma and needing us to come home to take care of him. However, he has now shown us that he is clearly not ready to leave us yet… so I’m glad we didn’t cancel! In fact, as I write this, he’s visiting the vet. I have a feeling she might be pleasantly surprised by how he’s doing today.

Well, that about does it for this year’s visit to the Schwarzwald. I hope this series has been entertaining, informative, and inspirational. If you’re living in Germany, I highly recommend taking the opportunity to visit The Black Forest. We completely missed it the first time we lived here. I’m so glad we came back and rectified that tragedy! And if you are into good food, especially fine dining, you may want to make a point of visiting Baiersbronn. As I mentioned in 2018, when we first heard of Baiersbronn, there are lots of (Michelin) “stars” in them there hills!

BeNeLux, Ten Things I Learned

Ten things I learned in Antwerp, Belgium…

Here it is, my usual list of ten things I learned on my latest trip. I like to do these to remind myself that travel is a way to expand one’s mind, pick up new knowledge, meet new people, and broaden perspectives. I also find that the ten things I learned posts are more likely to be read than my blow by blow accounts of our travels, especially since we tend to do a lot of eating and drinking instead of visiting exhibits. So, here goes… ten things I learned in Antwerp, Belgium.

10. Antwerp is a major port city.

Antwerp is located on the Scheldt River, and it’s partially located in the City of Antwerp and the Province of East Flanders. It is Europe’s second largest seaport, after Rotterdam.

*Het Steen, a building that has been used many ways… including as a cruise terminal.*

9. You can’t come to Antwerp and not learn about A Dog of Flanders.

I’m sorry to admit that I had not heard of A Dog of Flanders before we visited Antwerp. The novella was written by the English author, Marie Louise de la Ramée (also known as Ouida), and it was partly based on Antwerp. The story is about a poor boy named Nello and his dog, Patrasch, who were very loyal to each other. Ouida’s book was very popular in Asia and Russia, was made into a film, and translated into different languages. Because of the book’s popularity, there are two monuments in Belgium dedicated to Nello and Patrasch. One of the monuments is located in Antwerp, and you can’t miss it if you go to the cathedral.

8. Antwerp is famous for diamonds.

One of the reasons we visited Antwerp is because Bill thought maybe we’d shop for a diamond, since it was my 50th birthday. But we ended up skipping the diamond shopping, having been warned by Trip Advisor reviews. 🙂 Nevertheless, I had no idea diamonds were notable in Antwerp before I visited there. Maybe we’ll still shop for a rock, since this year we will also celebrate our 20th wedding anniversary.

7. Antwerp is very LGBTQ friendly.

Which isn’t to say that Europe, as a whole, isn’t friendly to the LGBTQ community. But I saw signs that Antwerp is especially open to people of all orientations. I liked that about Antwerp.

6. It’s also very artist friendly!

Perhaps because it’s such an “open-minded” place, Antwerp is also home to a lot of artists and fashionistas. We saw all sorts of awesome fashion interpretations during our visit, and I saw more than a couple of art galleries I wouldn’t have minded exploring.

5. And there’s lots of food to suit every taste!

We found exotic cuisines ranging from Israeli to Peruvian-Japanese! And, of course, there was also the usual stuff, like Italian food, Greek food, Thai food, and Belgian food. There’s something for everyone.

4. COVID rules are pretty relaxed.

Actually, I would say they’re non-existent. Masks are recommended, but aren’t required, on trains or buses, nor did I see anyone wearing them voluntarily. If COVID is a worry for you, you might want to keep this in mind. We were not asked about our vaccines, except in a casual conversation with the hotel staff who was comparing rules in Germany to rules elsewhere.

3. Not all stores take Visa (or American credit cards).

We should have known better, given that we live in Germany, and we don’t have European credit cards. A lot of European destinations have gone cashless, so we have gone that way ourselves. But if you carry an American card, you might want to bring euros with you, just in case.

2. Bill rode his first ferris wheel in Antwerp.

Bill is afraid of heights, so before my birthday trip, he never voluntarily took a ride in a ferris wheel. I did not know, as we were looking at Antwerp from the top of the wheel, that this was his very first time on such a ride. He had a good time. I’m sure it comforted him that the car was enclosed, though.

*Bill lost his ferris wheel virginity here.*

1. You have to pay to see the Cathedral of Our Lady if you aren’t from Antwerp…

However, it’s worth the price of admission if you like art. The cathedral is loaded with paintings, sculptures, and relics, as well as beautiful stained glass windows and a fascinating crypt. And, when you’re finished gawking at all of the beautiful art, you can visit the bistro, enjoy a beer or a coffee in the courtyard, and use the toilet. That’s a pretty big deal.

*One of many paintings you can see at the cathedral!*

So… there you have it. We had a great time in Antwerp and I hope we can visit again. It was a great place for me to turn 50. I found many friendly locals who were willing to celebrate with me! As long as you aren’t driving– or you have a very good GPS that can get you where you need to go– it’s a total pleasure. Driving in Antwerp can be hellish if you don’t have accurate GPS. But once you park, good times are to be had! I can still say that I’ve never had a bad time in Belgium.

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Why “I Ain’t Been Nowhere” and ten more things I learned in Alsace, France…

It’s time for me to write another one of my “ten things I learned” posts. This one is coming a bit later than usual. I’m going to preface the post with a bit of an explanation for the people who still follow my travel adventures.

I’ve held off on writing my usual “ten things I learned” post for our most recent trip to France. I’m sad to say that I’ve kind of lost some of my desire to produce travel blog posts. There are a couple of reasons for this development.

Ever since I moved my blogs to WordPress, I’ve been struggling with lagging morale, particularly regarding the travel blog. Part of the reason I’ve been struggling has to do with people who were following me on Blogspot and decided to cause trouble. That situation was what led me to move my blogs in the first place. I suspect they just didn’t like me personally, for whatever reason, and decided to stir up some shit. It all ended badly, and ultimately, not in their favor, but it left me with some significant psychological angst that has taken some time to overcome.

I spent a year struggling with feeling really violated and angry, mainly because the people who were causing issues were being creepy, dishonest, and toxic. I’ve written quite a lot about that situation, mostly on my main blog, so I don’t want to rehash it here. I do think it’s really sad that some people feel the need to meddle in other people’s business and try to sabotage something like a personal blog. What those people did caused real damage on many levels, and there was absolutely no reason for it, other than their need to be destructive and creepy.

The second reason I’ve been less enthusiastic has a lot to do with the pandemic, and how difficult and annoying travel has been since COVID-19 became part of life. I was finally starting to feel better about writing in early 2020, only to have everything fall apart due to a deadly novel virus. The below song by Rhonda Vincent is pretty much a good summation of my feelings about COVID… If you haven’t heard it, I highly encourage you to listen. I promise it’s good, unless you just can’t abide bluegrass.

Sometimes, I think I’d like to go back to the USA, just so I can see Rhonda Vincent perform in person. Even if you aren’t a bluegrass fan, this song is awesome. Those harmonies make me want to cry! (in a verklempt way)

I am happy to report that Europe really is FINALLY opening up again, and COVID measures are becoming less obnoxious. This is happening, even though COVID infections are on the rise again in Europe, and I was actually exposed to COVID on our latest trip (though I haven’t been sick). I’m hoping the “red tile” on my Corona Warn app will go back to green today. Bill and I had a wonderful time in France, and now we want to travel more. So, I’m hoping we can move back into our former lifestyle, and I will recapture the joy of travel and experiencing new places and things. And now, on to the ten things I learned…

10. COVID-19 measures in France are currently much less annoying than they’ve been in Germany.

One of the reasons Bill and I went to France in the first place is because we didn’t want to be bothered by strict COVID rules. France doesn’t require FFP2 face masks, and if you are vaccinated, you don’t have to bother with masks in public indoor areas of restaurants and hotels. You do still need to wear a mask in shops, because they don’t check for vaccinations at the door. This was true during our visit, but as we know, rules are always subject to change.

9. Soufflenheim is French pottery heaven!

We have been to the Alsace area of France many times, but we’ve always stuck to the Wine Route. This was our first time exploring the area above Strasbourg, and we decided to go there because we knew Soufflenheim was where Alsatian pottery is made.

8. But there isn’t that much else going on in Soufflenheim…

Or, at least that was our impression during our visit. It’s a great place to go pottery shopping, but I wouldn’t say the town is particularly picturesque. However, nearby Sessenheim, where we stayed, is very cute!

7. There’s more to Alsace than the Wine Route.

On our previous trips to Alsace, we stayed in pretty, tourist friendly towns like Riquewihr, Colmar (Bischwihr), Ribeauville, and, of course, Strasbourg. We have visited the picturesque hamlets around Riquewihr and Ribeauville, and even made a point of stopping by Kaysersberg, where Anthony Bourdain took his life in 2018. If you go north of Strasbourg, you’ll still be in Alsace, but it feels different… and it’s well worth seeing.

6. Auberge Au Boeuf is a really cool place to stay!

I think the main reason we enjoyed our trip so much is because we discovered Auberge Au Boeuf, which is a wonderful, historic restaurant. But it also has four really cool bedrooms that can be rented. We were delighted by how thoughtfully designed and beautiful the hotel was. The little town of Sessenheim is also notable for its historic connection to Johann von Goethe, a very famous German poet, playwright, novelist, and statesman.

5. Michelin starred restaurants are not the end all, be all…

I do enjoy eating fancy food on occasion; but I’m really much more of a comfort food fan. We ate at the Michelin starred Auberge Au Boeuf twice. I’m not sorry we did that, but we did learn that “fancy food” should be special, or the magic wears off. On the other hand, it had been so long since we last indulged!

4. Speaking German often, but not always, comes in handy in Alsace.

We kind of already knew this from other trips, but we did run into a number of people who didn’t speak German or English. It made me wish I had studied French, in school, instead of Spanish.

3. The town of Bitche, which is in Lorraine, is very close to Kaiserslautern and Ramstein.

I did not realize how accessible this town, with its impressive and famous citadel, is to Germany’s largest military community. Maybe if Bill had worked in K-town, we might be slipping over the border more often.

2. Saverne is a cute town I’d never heard of!

We visited Saverne on a whim after we got bored in beautiful Obernai. Seriously, Obernai is a very pretty town, but it reminded me so much of other wine route towns. It was a treat to discover Saverne, which was about 45 minutes away. It had a very different feel. I wish we’d had time to explore more of it. Maybe we can go back.

It’s time to get back to enjoying Europe… for as long as possible.

One of our biggest regrets during our first time living in Europe is that we spent too many weekends at home. We completely missed out on the Black Forest and Alsace during our Army tour. In fact, I don’t even remember any visits to Stuttgart Mitte during those two years. When we came back to Germany in 2014, we were determined to explore more. For four years, we were able to do that, and we did it to great success.

But then, once we moved, we dealt with harassment and COVID-19, which knocked us off track somewhat. As we’ve learned from COVID, life is short and tomorrow is never guaranteed. Putin is making things in Europe a bit tense. Add that to COVID, and things can seem mighty grim. The truth is, every day there are risks to be faced. It’s time to face more risks and get back to living. I hope that’s what we can do more of in 2022.

And to those who want to cause trouble and see me fail…

Alsace, Burgundy, Ten Things I Learned

Ten things I learned in Alsace and Burgundy…

Every time I take a trip, I like to take a moment and reflect on the things I learned during my travels. No matter where I go, I always learn something new. On this particular trip, I learned more about French food! But I also learned some other things that I want to share with those who read this blog. So here goes…

10. Ribeauville is pronounced “Ribeauvillay”.

I was curious about how to pronounce Ribeauville because I noticed that all the signs showed an accent over the second e in the name. I asked Yannick, our host at our first gite, how to pronounce Ribeauville and he helped me out. Here’s a link to where you can hear French speakers say it.

By the same token, Alsace is pronounced “Al-zahss” (not Al-sayce).

9. There’s an art to ordering steak in France.

I was under the impression that in France, most people like their meat bloody. It’s also been my impression that the French know Americans don’t always like really rare meat. If you want to be in the know for enjoying beef in France, here’s a guide to how to order it. I asked for medium steak twice and ended up with well-done the second time. If I had known the French terms, maybe it would have turned out differently.

8. The word for turkey in French is “dinge”. Storks are a big deal in Alsace.

And I like turkey, so that’s good to know for next time! I never knew there were so many storks in that part of France and had not noticed them prior trips.

7. Escargot isn’t half bad…

It’s not all bad, either. I was pleasantly surprised by the escargot Bill and I tried in Burgundy, although I think all the garlic helped. It reminded me somewhat of eating haggis, though, and will probably be an experience saved for special occasions. I will say that every time I have smelled escargots being prepared, I have been intoxicated by the aroma. They always smell delicious to me, even if the idea of eating something slimy is a bit off putting. But, in fairness to snails, they aren’t slimy when they’ve been cooked.

6. Kugelhopf is a tasty breakfast bread.

It’s available in Germany, too, especially close to the French border. I’d probably still prefer croissants, but there aren’t really any bad French breads, are there?

5. You can have a great time in a no name destination.

I say “no name”, but what I really mean is a place that isn’t on the tourist map. Ribeauville is definitely more touristy than Saint Marcelin-de-Cray is, but I think Bill and I enjoyed the less touristy side of our trip more. It was fun just to be in a place where we were aliens and could just soak up the atmosphere. It was great being in what the wine seller described as “the real France”.

4. Going off the beaten path is good for the soul as well as the brain.

All week, we were challenged to learn a little bit of French. We ran into only one group of Americans and that was on the first night of our seven night trip. Although a few people we ran into spoke English, we had to live a bit more by our wits. And if you read my series, you now know that can sometimes lead to eating chitterlings.

3. Andouillette in France is NOT the same as American Andouille sausage.

Moreover, the French also do Andouille sausage differently than the Cajun folks do. If you are an adventurous eater who enjoys offal, it may be a thrill to try it in France. If you’re not, you may want to be aware. That being said, I read that Andouillette is a delicacy in Burgundy. It’s also very popular in Lyon, which is considered France’s food city. There’s even a club for connoisseurs.

2. In Burgundy, if you are offered “coffee” at four o’clock, don’t be surprised if you end up with wine.

Of course, you may also get coffee.

1. If you haven’t tried staying in a self-catering “gite” (pronounced zheet), you should give it a go.

When Bill and I lived in Germany the first time, we pretty much always stayed in B&Bs and hotels when we traveled. This time, because it’s not as easy to book our dogs at their favorite place, we have been taking them with us. Our dogs are not the most polite hounds on the block, so we like to find places to stay where they won’t be disruptive to others. Gites are great for that purpose. I have found that France is especially dog friendly, too. We spend a lot less money for larger accommodations where we can cook our own meals and not have to worry about disrupting housekeepers. It’s a win/win all the way around. I still love going to really nice hotels and being pampered, but when we bring our dogs, gites are the best alternative. And we have met some great people that way, too.

And also great donkeys…

Burgundy, Ten Things I Learned

Ten things I learned on my trip to Semur En Auxois, France…

Whenever Bill and I take trips, I like to think of ten things I learned. I have found that travel is one of the best ways to learn new things, meet new people, and expand horizons. Although Semur En Auxois was not on my top ten list of places I wanted to see, we really enjoyed our weekend there. And so, in the interest of promoting this underrated town, I give you the top ten things we learned on our trip to Semur En Auxois, France.

10. There are still places in western Europe where not everyone speaks English. I know some people will say that the French purposely choose not to speak English, and maybe that’s true sometimes. I didn’t find it to be true in Semur En Auxois. Everyone we ran into was pleasant, though not necessarily fluent in English. Frankly, I found it very refreshing, even though it made communicating more difficult.

9. In France, you can go to the grocery store on Sunday! It’s true that things do shut down for the “day of rest”, but people have to have their croissants. So, if you also need to load up on wine or cheese for the ride back to Germany, you may very well be able to stop in. I’m not sure if this is true in every part of France, but it was in Semur En Auxois, which I would not consider to be a tourist mecca.

8. It can be very rewarding to wander among small towns and just soak in the local flavor. It’s true that this particular trip was not of the Clark W. Griswold variety. We didn’t make a point of seeing all of the things we could have seen. But we did get to see some very charming French villages and enjoy some wonderful scenery. Sometimes, it’s good to just soak up the atmosphere.

7. Cheese that smells like feet apparently tastes fantastic. This is according to my husband, Bill, who likes that sort of thing. If you like unusual and stinky cheeses, France is your place! As for me, pass the Monterrey Jack and make sure it’s melted.

6. Europeans aren’t into spaying and neutering their pets the way Americans are. Although people have given us strange looks in Germany for having two dogs sans testicles, it wasn’t until we went to France that we learned why. At least in Germany, there is a law that prohibits removing organs from animals for non medical reasons, although it doesn’t seem to be heavily enforced and exceptions can be made. Europeans seem to be opposed to the practice of spaying and neutering in general. I just found a five year old article that explains that neutering your dog is actually illegal in Norway. Interesting! This revelation ranks right up there with learning that many German men sit down to pee when they’re at home.

5. Free parking and free WCs! Although I know free potties and parking are not necessarily the norm in France, we did find them both to be a lot more plentiful there than in Germany. On the other hand, prepare to pay tolls on the motorways!

4. Even if you don’t speak French, you can have rewarding conversations… See my reference to spaying and neutering above, which came about as we were chatting with an elderly French lady who wondered where our dogs’ balls were. Of course, we could have misinterpreted. Incidentally, we also saw a local guy walking by wearing a t-shirt that read “This is my Halloween costume.” We count that as another bizarre occurrence during our travels (and we always have at least one on every trip we take).

3. My French isn’t as bad as I thought it was. Which isn’t to say that it’s good at all. I just understood more than I would have expected. I definitely need to study it, though. But I also need to study German. Why couldn’t I have spent two years in a country where I would have learned French instead of Eastern Armenian? Just my luck, I guess.

2. Even obscure towns are worth seeing. My guess is that most Americans have never heard of Semur En Auxois. Most Americans would prefer to visit Paris, Lyon, Nice, or Normandy. We had a very good time in rural France. It was an authentic experience that I would highly recommend to other Americans if they have the means and the opportunity. Just pick a small town and go. You may surprise yourself by what you’ll end up learning and seeing.

1. France is wonderful. I will admit, my very first impressions of France in 1995 were quite unfavorable. I spent a whole, miserable, jet lagged day stuck at Charles de Gaulle airport where I was treated rudely. However, every time I have gone back to France, and there have been many times since 1995, I have fallen more in love with the country. There’s a lot to love about France and I hope we can go back again soon. I kind of feel the same way about New York City. I hated my first visit, but loved it more with each subsequent trip. By the time we move back to the States, I will probably be madly in love with France.

France is beautiful, even when the sun isn’t shining!

The Traveling Overeducated Housewife

…the wanderings and ramblings of a boring housewife…

Category Archives: Ten Things I Learned