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At home at The Water’s Edge…

I realize I’ve been writing about Ireland for many days now, but I promised some people in the local Facebook group that I would post a review of our stay at The Water’s Edge, a self catering cottage in County Sligo, Ireland.

I found The Water’s Edge on Booking.com about a month ago, when I was searching for a place to stay in County Donegal.  As it turns out, The Water’s Edge is in Sligo, but I decided to book it because it’s literally yards away from the Atlantic Ocean.  I was also very impressed by the price of the cottage, which was 440 euros for five nights (plus heating and electricity).

Besides being in a prime location, The Water’s Edge is right next to The Beach Bar, which is a great place to have a pint as well as learn how to surf!  At this time of year, The Beach Bar only offers food three nights a week.  We were also told that the bar will be closing for about six months while extensive renovations are done.  We feel fortunate that we were able to check it out when we were visiting.  It’s a really neat little place.

Once I booked the cottage, I got an email from Helen, the proprietor.  She was great to work with and very friendly and welcoming.  Indeed, when we arrived at the cottage, we found that Helen had it all ready for us and had even left us a couple of bottles of wine and some chocolates.  She remembered that I’d mentioned we were celebrating our anniversary and left us a lovely note along with the welcome gift.

The Water’s Edge has a well equipped kitchen, with a dishwasher, oven, stove, and microwave.  There’s a generously sized table that faces a wood stove, where you can burn peat to keep the cottage toasty warm.  Electricity is provided on a meter that you must drop two euro coins into.  We don’t know how long two euros keeps the lights going, but if you choose to book, be sure to have some two euro coins available.  We also paid about 70 euros or so for heating.

There are three bedrooms and six people can be comfortably accommodated.  There are two bathrooms, one of which is equipped with facilities for disabled patrons.  There’s plenty of parking, too.

The sitting room offers a television with satellite service, as well as a stereo that will connect with an MP3 player.  It was great to light a fire, open some wine, and listen to music while we watched the surf from the half door facing the ocean.  WiFi is free and it works very well!

One night, we went into town for our anniversary dinner.  Our waiter knew Helen!  I have a feeling she is well-known in the Sligo area, since she has two properties to rent!  We noticed an article hung on the wall about her family, which is well known for farming as well as Irish dancing and music!

The only complaint I had about The Water’s Edge is that the double beds were indeed double beds, rather than queen sized.  While we were able to sleep fine, it was a bit cozier than we’re used to.  But really, this cottage had everything we needed.  We even managed to do a little bit of laundry, which was a real blessing that spared me from having to do a whole lot when we got home last night.

I would have liked to have seen more of Sligo, but it was such a pleasure to have such a nice place to stay in during the inclement weather.  If nothing else, we could watch the ever changing sea and enjoy each other’s company.  Pets are not allowed at this property.

There is a grocery store in nearby Ballysadare, maybe twenty or thirty minutes away.  Ballysadare also has a couple of bars and restaurants, though we didn’t have a chance to visit them.

I would not hesitate to recommend The Water’s Edge to anyone looking for a great beach cottage in western Ireland.  It really is a gem and Helen is a delight to work with!  Below are some pictures of the property!

A nice welcome!

Master bedroom.  It has its own bathroom with a shower.

Sitting room.  Loved the reclining chairs.

Kitchen.

Second guest room.

Second bathroom.

Third guest room.

 

Coin operated meter for electricity.

The Beach Bar!

 

View from the half door in the kitchen!

 
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Celebrating 14 years in Ireland! Part eleven

We’re heading back to Dublin today, where we’ll spend one more night by the airport.  I’m a little sad to be leaving beautiful County Sligo and our lovely little cottage by the sea.  It’s time to go, though.  I miss Zane and Arran and there are things that need to be done in Germany.  If I’m honest, I also miss my king sized bed.

Yesterday, we did decide to stay in and watch the surf as we listened to music and finished off some of the food and beverages we bought for our stay here.  I took many pictures, as you can see.

Around 3:00, we went to the pub next door, had a couple of rounds of beer and a whiskey, and a little bit of food.  Although they had a set menu available, we decided to stick with appetizers.  Bill had spicy chicken wings and vegetable soup.  I had seafood chowder and fried prawns with spicy chili sauce.  It’s not lost on me the significance of the spice…  The spicier the food is, the more you’ll be drinking!

Last night’s menu.  On weekends, the Beach Bar serves food from 1-8, but they stay open until the wee hours of the morning.  We ended up on the restaurant side last night.

Bill checks out the selections.

 

The dining area is very quaint, like the bar is.  We were told they will be renovating for six months after next weekend.

 

Rich seafood chowder and fresh, hearty, brown bread.  I will miss this.

 

Bill’s vegetable soup, which was the soup of the day.

 

Spicy prawns!

 

Spicy chicken wings with garlic mayonnaise.

 

I think our bill came to about 40 euros or so.  On Saturday nights after 10:00, the beach bar has live music.  I wish we were going to be around for that.  I have been itching for some live music since we got here.  At least now we have a reason to come back.

Below are some photos I took.  The weather has cleared up and it’s warmer… just in time for us to leave.  🙁

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Celebrating 14 years in Ireland! Part ten

Because the weather turned tumultuous, we decided to stay in yesterday and simply watch the sea.  At one point, Bill went out to the grocery store to pick up more supplies– toilet paper, eggs, bacon, and some laundry detergent.  The cottage has a washer and dryer, so we were able to do a load of laundry.

I watched a little Irish TV and found a channel called Forces, which was airing military themed shows.  I was a bit surprised when Hogan’s Heroes came on.  That show aired before I was born and I never got into the reruns.  I have to admit, it was a bit weird to see it yesterday in Ireland, especially since the premise of the show seemed so ridiculous.  It reminded me of a war themed Gilligan’s Island.

For those who don’t know, Hogan’s Heroes is basically about a bunch of allied forces who were being held in a German prisoner of war camp during World War II.  The Germans in charge were portrayed as buffoons and the “prisoners” easily got around all of the trappings of prison life.  Basically, they were running an underground operation to help Americans at other bases fight the Nazis.

After a couple of episodes of Hogan’s Heroes, I turned off the TV… but not before running across a channel where women were being really boring.  I couldn’t help but notice that a lot of what I was seeing was actually British television, which reminded me too much of American TV minus Dr. Phil.

Bill and I spent most of the day sitting around, enjoying each other’s company, listening to music, and watching the waves.  I gave some thought to getting dressed and visiting the pub next door, but decided against it when I got a load of the weather.

I’m not sure what we’ll do today.  It’s our last full day in the Sligo area, but it’s cold and stormy this morning.  We even had a little bit of snow last night.  It may be just another leisurely day for us, by the wood stove fire as we watch the surf.  It changes so much by the minute it’s a show in and of itself.

If there’s one thing I do know, it’s that we’ll have to come back to Ireland again… perhaps at a time of year when there’s more sunlight and warm breezes.  Here are photos I captured during our lazy day.

There was a little snow last night.

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Celebrating 14 years in Ireland! Part nine

After we had our Guinness at The Reel Inn in Donegal, Bill and I had lunch at a very cool restaurant called The Olde Castle Bar.  We were mainly attracted to the restaurant because of the menu, but I have to admit that it was a very striking place with its stoney architecture.

The Olde Castle Bar.

A friendly waitress invited us to pick a table.  Bill ordered sparkling water and I ordered a local craft beer made by Donegal Brewing Company.  Established in 2011, the Donegal Brewing Company has been making interesting new suds for Irish people.  I found the Atlantic Amber Ale a nice change from Guinness.

Atlantic Amber Ale, very nice beer from Donegal Brewing Company.  

 

Delicious seafood chowder.  Truthfully, this would have been enough food!

 

Lobster!  And it didn’t cost over 60 euros, like it did in Germany!

 

Chips and salad… and a shell cracker that caused me to pinch the hell out of my fingers!

 

Hearty seafood pie with vegetables.

 

Obligatory shot of Bill!

For lunch, Bill and I split a delicious seafood chowder that was creamy and full of potatoes, salmon, shrimp, and scallops.  It came with hearty brown bread.  Bill had “seafood pie”, which was basically a thicker version of the chowder topped with mashed potatoes.  I had a bay lobster, which came with fries, mashed potatoes, and a salad.  It was a lot of food and I was pretty well sustained for the rest of the day!  If you’re in Donegal, I would definitely recommend the Olde Castle Bar for a meal.  The food and service are great and they also display lots of patches from police departments, many of which were in the USA.  I even saw one from Germany.

From lunch, we decided to try to get to Slieve League, which is a mountain park where one can see some of the highest sea cliffs in Europe.  We had very good intentions of getting there and plugged in the town in the GPS.  Unfortunately, we plugged in the wrong town and ended up hell and gone from where we were supposed to go!  By the time we got to the wrong town, it was getting dark and gloomy anyway.  We did manage to see some beautiful scenery, though.  At one point, the GPS had Bill going through some very wild territory with narrow roads.  He almost ran our rental car aground letting someone pass.  Good thing we sprang for full insurance coverage on the car!

A stop at a gas station reminded us that we had ventured into an area where people typically speak Gaelic.  There were signs in Gaelic everywhere!  Maybe we’ll try to find the cliffs again if the weather clears up today.

We drove back to our cottage in Sligo, which took some time.  After a night’s rest, we woke yesterday to our anniversary.  Because it looked kind of gloomy yesterday morning and we didn’t really feel like trying to go anywhere, we stayed in and hung out with each other.  I got many amazing photos of the beach, as well as a photo of one plucky lad with a surfboard.  Apparently, there is a surf school near Aughris and people go surfing year round.

Surfing in Ireland in November?  Who knew!

Last night, we had a lovely dinner at a restaurant in Sligo called Coach Lane.  It was recommended by a bell hop at The Marker Hotel in Dublin.  Our waiter was a very pleasant fellow who took great care of us, even as we were sitting in the vicinity of a group of rowdy Polish men.  Our waiter explained that those guys had been coming around all week.  Apparently, one or two of them was working in the area.

Bill at the Coach Lane Restaurant.

 

More seafood chowder!  It was so good, but I had to pace myself.

 

Bill had a scallop tart.

 

Delightful roasted duck and vegetables for my main course…

 

Bill had a sirloin with portobello mushroom.

 

And for dessert, a nice little panoply of treats.  We shared it.

 

Before the tip, our dinner came to about 115 euros.  We brought home leftovers from our main courses, which will probably get eaten for lunch today.  Below are some more beach scenes from yesterday.  It’s a real pleasure to get to see the weather and tide affect the sea…  And, as someone who grew up near the Atlantic Ocean, I am very pleased to get to see it from the eastern side.

 
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Celebrating 14 years in Ireland! Part eight

Aughris!

Bill called our hostess, Helen, who was going to come over and show us how everything in the house works.  Our rental house is called The Water’s Edge, and it definitely is at the water’s edge!  While we were waiting, I noticed that she left us two bottles of wine and Lindor Swiss chocolate truffles.  I also noticed all the signs on the walls, no doubt inspired by previous guests who either didn’t clean up after themselves or stole from the cottage.  What a shame.

A nice welcome surprise!

The master bedroom.

Living room.

Kitchen/dining area.  There’s a nice wood stove.

Guest room we aren’t using.

Bathroom we aren’t really using.

Another guest room we aren’t using.  Has a twin sized bed.  All of this for just 440 euros through Booking.com (or 400 euros a week directly).  

Helen turned out to be a very friendly and funny lady.  She showed us how to use the wood stove and the coin operated power meter, as well as the electric showers.  I got a laugh when she showed us the power meter, which runs on two euro coins.  She said she didn’t know how long two euros lasts.  We got here Monday and so far, we still have power.  When it inevitably goes out, we will deposit another two euros.  Weird.

Coin operated meter!

After Helen left, Bill and I had a little late lunch/dinner procured from the supermarket.  Then we walked to The Beach Bar, which is a cute little pub located just steps away from the cottage.  Because it’s November, the Beach Bar only serves food on weekends.  After next weekend, they will be closed for about six months as they renovate.  I’m glad we had the chance to stop in for beer and whiskey.  It’s a very cute little place, complete with cheeky signs on the walls, pictures of past events, and a nice fireplace.

Beach Bar!

Cute inside!

 

Yet another Guinness.

In the summer, this bar is supposedly packed!  A lot of people come to Aughris to surf.

A little Irish whiskey.  Bill finished off the bottle for them.  There was just enough for a taste, so they didn’t charge us.

 

I had a full measure of another whiskey.

 

At one point, Bill asked about poitin.  He was surprised by the bartender’s reaction, which seemed a bit abrupt.  Apparently, poitin isn’t all that widely available.  Or maybe it’s illegal?  Based on the barkeep’s reaction, it seemed like a taboo topic.  But then Bill overheard the old guy at the bar say something about the bartender chipping in on a still.  Who knows?

The bar closes at 8:00pm, so Bill and I decided to make an early evening of it.  We got back to our cottage at about 5:00pm and listened to music and the crashing waves of the ocean.  We gazed at the super moon, which showed up pretty well.  I think we were dead to the world by 9:00pm.

Super moon in super Ireland!

Yesterday morning, we had more sunshine, so we took some photos of the beach at low tide.  Then we decided to drive to Donegal, since we’re pretty sure that might have been where Bill’s people came from before they were Americans.  It turned out Donegal Castle was closed, but that was no big deal.  Castles aren’t that exciting to me, anyway.

We parked the car and walked into the town, where I immediately spotted The Irish House, which was full of sweaters, tweed, hats and scarves.  We ran into a nicely turned out local lady, who helped us select a Donegal tweed jacket for Bill and a big blue sweater for me.  She noticed and admired my Bean boots, which I explained were great for keeping my feet warm and dry.  I first started wearing Bean Boots when I used to show horses.  They’re great for wearing in a barn, especially when you have to clean stalls.

All in all, we dropped about $400 there.  They even threw in a free wool scarf.  I’m glad Bill has a new jacket.  I’m always trying to expand his wardrobe.

Naturally, talk turned to Donald Trump… as it inevitably has everywhere we’ve gone on this trip.  It’s been interesting to hear Irish impressions of our president elect.  The saleslady noted that Mr. Trump always has beautiful women with him.  She also said he hires women.  I said that was fine, as long as he didn’t grab any of them by the pussy.

In Donegal.

At the Reel Inn!

Next time we come to Ireland, we’ll need to stay a night or two in Donegal!

And… since I am a bit Scottish, we will have to visit The Reel Inn’s local competitor.

We ate lunch at this restaurant…  I will write about it in part nine!

After we purchased our new duds, we went to an Irish pub the saleslady recommended called The Reel Inn.  She said it was the best place for a Guinness, since the pipe to the keg was “short”.  I’m not sure I know what she was talking about, but The Reel Inn did appear to be a very popular place for live music.  I wished we were staying in Donegal because I have been itching to hear some live music and maybe join in myself.

The Reel Inn is a small place that originally celebrated its 10th birthday.  The barman was working alone, though he was soon joined by an older man looking resplendent in tweed.  I can’t be sure, but I think they were speaking Irish.  They appeared to be old friends and I couldn’t understand a word they were saying.

Expert advice…

After a beer somewhat awkwardly enjoyed in The Reel Inn, we moved on to looking for lunch.  More on that in the next post.

 

More shots of Aughris…

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Celebrating 14 years in Ireland! Part seven

We were literally lodged next to Europe’s Facebook Headquarters!

After our Guinness Storehouse experience, we found a cab right outside.  The driver had “Bullet In The Blue Sky” playing on the stereo.

“U2!” I said.  “How appropriate!”

“What is this song called?” Bill asked.

“Bullet In The Blue Sky.” I said.  “I think it came out around 1987.”

“It’s not from 1984?” Bill asked.

“No, U2’s 1984 album was The Unforgettable Fire.  I feel pretty certain this song wasn’t on that album.” I answered.

“The song was recorded in 1986.” the cab driver said.  “And it was released in 1987.”

“Ha!  I was right!” I cheered.  “I can’t ever forget The Joshua Tree because I was 15 years old and taking a journalism class when it was released.  One of the girls in my class was a big U2 fan and went to Hampton, Virginia to see them perform while they were on tour that year.  She ended up meeting Bono and he signed her white turtleneck.  And she also ‘locked’ her class ring.  She wrote a big article about the experience in our school newspaper.”

“I was in Germany the first time.” Bill said.  “23 years old.”

“Holy shit, you’re old, mate!” the cab driver said.  It turned out he was 46 years old and hailed from Liverpool, England.  He’d come to Ireland to golf and fell in love with a local.  They are now married and have several kids, the youngest of which is six years old.  The driver then told us a story about how the six year old had woken him up that morning by climbing on his face.

The driver went on to tell us about how much Dublin has changed since Bill first visited, back in 1984.  He pointed out an old bar that used to be full of guys who worked in the Docklands area of the city.  He took an old friend to the area, trying to find the bar.  They walked into it and asked where the bar was located.  No one confirmed that they had reached the right place.  I seem to remember there was some talk of the IRA, too.

We left the cabbie and then decided to look for dinner.  Unfortunately, there wasn’t a great selection of restaurants near The Marker Hotel.  We ended up going into the restaurant at the nearby Clayton Hotel– it was called Vertigo.  From the very start, that was an annoying experience.  They were playing horrible generic dance music in the dining room.  Also, we weren’t aware that in order to be served, you had to go up to the bar.  There was no sign alerting us to that fact.  So we sat for awhile before another customer clued us in to what we needed to do.  Bill was starting to have flashbacks to our very bad experience at the Esquire Bar in San Antonio.

Carlsberg is a thirst quencher, but not that inspiring.

Bill ordered a chicken and avocado burger.  I had a cheeseburger.  It took a very long time for the sandwiches to get to us, plus we were drinking Carlsberg beers, which aren’t all that interesting.  Add in the terrible music and the fact that all we really wanted to do was eat and hit the sack, and you have a couple of crotchety middle aged folks.  First world problems, right?

Disappointing burger…

 

Mr. Bill’s chicken sandwich.  It could have been better.

Neither of the burgers were particularly good, either.  Bill said his was okay, although it had little avocado on it.  My burger was overcooked and not very hot.  I finished less than half before we decided to cash in our chips for the evening.  We have a reservation at a Clayton Hotel the night before we fly back to Germany.  Hopefully, it will leave a better impression than the one in downtown Dublin.

On the way back to the hotel, I noticed the European Facebook headquarters, located directly next to our hotel.  I had to take a few photos.  It looks like an interesting place to work, based on the big posters with provocative slogans on them in the foyer.

Several of the signs I noticed from outside Facebook’s headquarters in Ireland.

Monday morning, we got up and had our breakfast.  After that, we checked out of the hotel and got a cab to the car rental office where Bill had arranged to pick up a vehicle for our three hour trip to Sligo.  After a few tense early moments, Bill got the hang of driving on the left again, having done it for the first time back in March of this year when we were in Scotland and England.  Aside from drifting too far off the side of the narrow roads and some momentary confusion, he’s done a great job driving.

I tried to snag a couple more Dublin shots from the car.

We stopped at a grocery store in Ballysadare and picked up some essentials for our five nights at the beach cottage.  We were going to have lunch, but it looked like everything in the little village, except for the cafe in the grocery store, was boarded up tight.  Lots of young folks who obviously attend the local Catholic school were walking around the town in their uniforms.  I actually found myself admiring the uniforms.  As a youngster, I didn’t like the idea of being forced to wear the same thing as everyone else did.  However, as a middle aged woman, I don’t think school uniforms are a bad idea.  And I even liked the classic look the kids were sporting.

In Ballysadare, apparently being versatile is the key to economic success.

The construction stoplights in Ireland have timers on them, letting you know how long you have to wait.  Bill and I both like that.  There is a lot of construction going on here, which is a good thing.  The roads are narrow and very well used.

After we shopped, we finished our drive to Aughris Head, which is where our beach cottage rental is located.  When we arrived in the mid afternoon, Bill found the keys to the house.  The ads didn’t lie.  It’s literally right next to the Atlantic Ocean.  As I type this, I hear waves crashing dramatically on the rocky coastline.  It’s very peaceful.  Adding to the appeal is the fact that there is a bar located within walking distance of our little house.

More on Aughris in part eight!

First impressions…  I picked another winner.

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Celebrating 14 years in Ireland! Part one

Bill and I are currently in Ireland, celebrating our 14th wedding anniversary.  This trip has been a long time coming, since Bill has Irish ancestry and last visited Ireland in 1984.  I think I visited Ireland when my father was stationed at Mildenhall Air Force Base in England, but if I did visit, I was much too young to remember it.  I’ve been wanting to see Ireland for a long time, especially since I also have a little Irish blood, though it got to me by way of Scotland (I assume, anyway, having examined genealogical research done by people in my family).

I’m not sure when we decided, once and for all, that this anniversary would be spent in Ireland.  Originally, I was thinking about a trip to Baden-Baden, of all places, because I love spas and Baden-Baden is chock full of them.  For all I know, I decided on Ireland after we bought tickets to the recent whisky/whiskey tasting we attended at The Auld Rogue in Vaihingen.  In any case, we’re here and it’s good.  I tried to make this trip as first class as possible.

Business class on Lufthansa and Swiss Air (as well as Austrian Airlines)

 

As is my habit when I start planning a trip, I turned to Expedia.com for the initial planning.  I do that mainly because on Expedia, I can see prices for multiple airlines at one time and pair them with hotels.  I know everybody has their favorite travel site.  I’ve tried and used Travelocity and I’ve looked at Kayak.com, too.  For some reason, I just happen to prefer Expedia.  I also have a lot of rewards points there that I’m saving for a big splurge sometime.

When Bill and I fly, we usually opt for economy class because it’s often difficult to justify the extra money it costs to fly business class.  For this particular trip, we ended up booking business class seats.  Although business class was a bit more expensive than economy class was, it wasn’t prohibitively so.  I also wanted to try business class so I could write about the experience.

We ended up paying about $840 for two business class tickets from Stuttgart to Dublin.  Our first leg took us from Stuttgart to Munich to Dublin on Lufthansa.  On the way back, we’ll fly Swiss Air to Zurich to Stuttgart.  We have a long layover in Zurich and I looked at possibly taking a train back to Stuttgart.  Unfortunately, I didn’t find one that would get us back home sooner than the plane would.  I guess I will get to write about Zurich’s airport and maybe Swiss Air’s business class lounge.

The Marker Hotel in Dublin 

 

The Marker Hotel is a very contemporary hotel located in the Docklands area of Dublin.  It’s located in the center of town, making it a good place from which to explore.  As it’s turned out, so far we haven’t explored much of Dublin yet, because I bought us tickets to the Smithwick’s Experience in Kilkenny.  Yesterday, we took a train to Kilkenny to use our tickets and that took up the whole day.  Today, we have plans to visit the Guinness brewery for a tour and a connoisseur beer tasting.  Hopefully, we’ll get to see some of Dublin today, because tomorrow, we’re headed to the west coast, where I’ve rented a cottage on the water for five nights.

Nectar of the gods?

The Water’s Edge in Aughris

That is the name of the cottage I’ve rented.  I found it through Booking.com.  It’s located in County Sligo.  I had originally wanted to find us a place in County Donegal, but was unable to find anything that really pulled at the heartstrings.  The Water’s Edge is located steps away from a well regarded beach bar and is literally right on the beach.  I look forward to seeing the area around there because it looks absolutely beautiful!  Best of all, the price was right.  Just 440 euros for five nights.  I haven’t seen the house yet, though, so we’ll see if it was really a bargain.

We will come back to Dublin on Saturday, November 19th and stay a night at the Clayton Hotel, which is right next to the Marker Hotel.  I didn’t know they were so close to each other when I booked.  I was simply looking for an airport hotel.  Now I know to check locations more carefully!  On November 20th, we will fly back to Germany.

Now that I’ve outlined our main plans for this trip, it’s time to write about what’s happened so far.  Stay tuned for part two.

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