Champagne Bucket trips

A week from now, we’ll be in Yerevan!

And there’s a lot of stuff we could do while we’re there. This is not an ordinary trip for me, though. When I step into the city next week, I’ll be experiencing a special kind of time warp. I was in Yerevan when it was fresh from Soviet occupation. It’s now been decades since Armenia was Soviet, and things have changed a lot.

If you don’t follow my main blog, you might not know that Bill got to come home from Bavaria yesterday, instead of Wednesday. This is a good thing, since it will allow us more time to prepare for next week’s trip.

For now, we’re focused on visiting the city that was my home for 27 months in my 20s. I have a lot of memories to unpack and places to show Bill. Mostly, though, I expect I’ll be absorbing the atmosphere and watching people… reflecting on how different it is there now. When I lived in Armenia, it was a place mostly undiscovered by Americans and Europeans. Now, people go there for fun. There is a lot of fun to be had, too… Armenia is an ancient country, with many places to see. I think we’ll need more time.

I found out a few days ago that one of the people I was hoping to see on this visit will be out of town during our trip. She’s going to be in Italy, of all places! She told me that she and her daughter had planned this trip a long time ago. I understand, especially since they have to have visas to visit Europe. Maybe at some point, we can meet up in Europe… or, if all goes well and nothing dangerous happens in Armenia, Bill and I will go back. I’d like to show him more of the country than Yerevan.

As for today, I don’t have a lot to write. It’s raining today, as it was yesterday, so we probably won’t go out anywhere. We did get a phone call yesterday from the frame shop where our Czech paintings are being framed. Two of the three are ready to pick up, but they called us an hour before they closed, and it wasn’t a good time to go get our art. Bill is still going to be working the conference he’s been working on in Bavaria, so he may have a couple of late nights. But on Thursday, we should be able to go get two of the paintings and arrange for framing the third (which had to be stretched). Then Friday, it’s off to Yerevan, by way of Vienna. I’m really looking forward to it and taking a lot of photos!

My old friend, who is also my former teacher, says the weather in Yerevan has been beautiful lately. I hope it holds for us next week! And I’m sure I’ll find a lot of ways to keep us occupied, even if I haven’t booked a bunch of tours.

The featured photo is an Armenian bus I took with a Peace Corps buddy in the summer of 1996. We were on our way to Istanbul! It took three days to get there… I am glad we took that journey, but my days of that kind of travel are definitely over now!

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Champagne Bucket trips, Eastern Europe

Our rainy day in Prague… part eleven of our 2023 Czech tour!

On Monday morning, Bill and I enjoyed our first fabulous breakfast at Hotel Nerudova 211. I had already read about the wonderful breakfasts offered at this hotel, which are available until 4:00pm. Yes, that’s right, they serve breakfast all day, in their cafe, which is also open to non-hotel guests. I had booked breakfast with our room, so we were invited to have whatever we wanted from their extensive a la carte breakfast menu.

I ended up having Eggs Benedict, mainly because the receptionist had recommended it so highly. I wanted to see if it would be as good as the Eggs Benedict I had at Monastery Garden in Cesky Krumlov. Bill had scrambled eggs in a croissant. We both had cappuccinos and fresh orange juice, but they also brought out very fresh bread and butter that was absolutely delicious.

I got a kick out of one of the waiters, who deftly handled one rather demanding fellow who showed up and started barking orders. He calmly said, “Yes, of course. Go take a seat and I’ll be right with you.” I could be wrong, but I think I caught a hint of a smirk on his face. Frankly, I couldn’t blame him for that.

After we finished breakfast, we had some filtered coffee, and the same waiter offered us a piece of cake. They had strawberry cake and banana bread. He called the whole piece of cake a “sample”, but was wise enough to bring two forks. It was so good, but boy were we full afterwards! I had asked for cream in my coffee and the guy looked a little panicked as he asked if steamed milk was okay. Yes, of course! I’m just American, and some of us take cream (half and half) in our coffee. I forget sometimes that isn’t how the Europeans do it.

Once breakfast was over, Bill and I set out for the old town in Prague. We made our way to the Charles Bridge, marveling at the number of people walking across it. Somewhere in the middle of the bridge, I looked down and saw evidence of vomit. I remarked to Bill, “Ooh! Someone threw up! It was a lot, too!”

I noticed some guy overheard me and was laughing. I will admit, it was kind of funny… for us, anyway. I’m not so sure about the person who puked.

As we got closer to the other side of the Vltava River, we heard some really great jazz swing music. There was a band of four buskers, just jamming on the bridge. They were great! And they had a CD, so we bought one and brought it home. I’d have to say they were the best of the whole bunch of great buskers we heard in the Czech Republic. I love supporting them with applause and tips, and when they have CDs, I buy their music.

This is the Charles Bridge Swing Band, and they rock!

We stopped near the end of the bridge and looked down at the water. That was when I noticed a furry critter swimming past some paddle boats. I later identified the creature as most likely a nutria, which apparently have invaded Prague in large numbers to the point at which they are considered a nuisance. I got a video of the little fellow, swimming among the ducks.

A nutria is busily swimming in the Vltava River.

Then, thanks to all the fluids we drank at breakfast, I needed to pee. I was trying to get to the nearest pay WC, but was soon accosted by a couple of Black guys in sailor suits. They were selling boat rides. We didn’t take the bait, but maybe we would have, if the weather had been better. Instead we looked at another church, then continued on toward the famous astronomical clock and the cathedral.

We were pretty slack about taking in touristy stuff, mainly because we were kind of tired and ready to go home. Maybe it’s good that we did Prague last, if only because it was the grandest stop on our trip, and had the best chance of keeping us engaged in our travels. But we had such an eventful vacation that we were kind of overloaded by the time we got to Prague. Still, we managed to take a lot of photos and do a lot of walking in the main areas. At one point, we sat down and watched pigeons fight over ham.

We did some shopping for ourselves and Bill’s grandchildren. I managed to find us a couple more paintings, coasters, a tablecloth, soaps, beer shampoo and conditioner (great for your hair), and toys for the grandkids. Prague is a great place for shopping!

The paintings we bought were done by a Russian couple who have been living in Prague for thirty years. The man said his friend owned the shop where he was selling his art, but he had trouble making sales, because people tended to want smaller things. I was delighted to buy a couple of his paintings. We were actually planning to buy some art for the house. I wish I’d bought more.

Then, after a few hours of walking off breakfast, it was time for lunch. We found a great Italian place very close to our hotel. After walking past a bunch of touristy places that were crowded with people, I noticed an unassuming restaurant that had plenty of room for us and wasn’t full. It turned out to be a fabulous spot called Pivo & Basilico.

The waitress was a very friendly young woman who turned out to be from Ukraine. She made a great recommendation for wine, and Bill and I used it to wash down some truly lovely homemade pasta. Lunch was so good that we had dessert– a house speciality for Bill with Nutella and vanilla creme, and tiramisu for me, plus a round of espresso. We didn’t need to eat again for the rest of the night! When I told her we were going to Armenia next month, she wished us safety. It turned out she had an Armenian friend at home in Ukraine. It was interesting talking to her… and when we settled the bill, the proprietor was very warm and genuinely friendly. I really liked that restaurant and would happily go back if we’re ever in Prague again.

When we got back to the room in the late afternoon, we found a really lovely letter on the bed from the owners of the hotel. I thought maybe we’d go out again later, but the cold was catching up to me. So we settled in for our second night at Hotel Nerudova 211, wishing we’d booked one more night. We will have to go back to Prague again soon.

I thought we might go to a beer spa, but we ran out of time. Now we have another reason to visit Prague again, even though we’ve been to quite a few beer spas.

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art

A brief intermission… today in Wiesbaden!

I’m taking a short pause from my Czech tour series to write about today’s visit to Wiesbaden. It actually has something to do with our Czech tour, since our purpose for going into town this morning was to drop off three of the four paintings we bought on our trip for custom framing .

I did a quick Google search and discovered family run Kunst-Schaefer, an art gallery and picture framer in downtown Wiesbaden. I noticed they got really good ratings and have been in business since 1905. Although we have a picture framer in our town, you have to make an appointment to get work done. It was just easier for us to take the art into Wiesbaden during the shop’s open hours of 10 AM until 2 PM.

The weather is really nice today and if I weren’t still getting over the sickness I picked up on our trip, I think I would have really enjoyed myself. But I’m still coughing a lot and kind of fatigued, so it wasn’t that much fun walking from the theater parking garage to the gallery. However, when we walked inside, it was like home again…

You see, my father owned and operated his own art gallery and picture framing business for about 25 years. I grew up watching him frame pictures and sell art. So going to get my art framed was a little like going home. I did mention to the salesman that my dad was in the business, and he assumed I knew all about picture framing. I don’t, and I told him so. I know the process of framing a picture, but it’s not something I ever did or aspired to do. I’m not that gifted with my hands. 😉 But my dad was, so the gallery, which had a lot of beautiful and provocative art for sale, was kind of nostalgic for me.

We dropped off two paintings we got in Prague featuring a cat couple dancing on the Charles Bridge. It isn’t the most earth shattering art, but Bill and I liked it, because it kind of reminded us of ourselves. And the Russian artist who sold it to us said that he and his wife had created the paintings together. He said they’d been in Prague for 30 years. He was clearly delighted when we bought art from him, as he said the shop belonged to his friend, who was letting him use some space to show his art. Bill and I bought art the last time we were in Prague, too… and some of it was kind of hokey stuff. Still, we like it… and I look forward to hanging up the paintings of the cats in our dining room.

The other painting we bought was one that practically leapt off the wall at me in a gallery in Cesky Krumlov. We bought it with another, very different painting of a landscape that came already framed. I realize the painting we dropped off today may not be to everyone’s taste, but it made me stop in my tracks and demanded that I take it home with me. I like art that makes you stop and think, and I loved the colors in it… but as it was taken off the stretcher when we bought it, it needs to be remounted before it can be framed. We should have our cat paintings in a couple of weeks. The other one will probably take longer. But, the good news is, if they do a good job, we’ll have a go to place for framing next month, when we get back from Armenia. I hope to buy some art there, too.

Here are some photos…

As we looked around the art gallery and took note of the prices, I was glad we went art shopping in Czechia. 😉 They had some beautiful stuff in the gallery, but it was a lot more expensive. But the prices for the picture framing wasn’t too bad. The guy even encouraged us to bring in a VAT form so we won’t have to pay 19 percent tax. Very nice, and totally not something we expect German businesspeople to volunteer for us.

Again, I like art that has a story and makes me stop in my tracks. And while I know the naked woman sculpture I captioned in the photo above is kind of weird, potentially offensive, and not to everyone’s taste, I would totally buy it… I like conversation pieces, and if ever there was one, that would be it. And while ex landlady is no longer in my life, I know seeing it would annoy the hell out of her, and that makes me smile. She probably hated seeing my caganers during her many unauthorized walks through the house when we weren’t home. 😉

I made Bill tip the busker. She played so beautifully.

After we took care of our framing needs, we headed to Little Italy for lunch. It had been awhile since our last visit, but we were warmly welcomed. I had black tortellini stuffed with smoked salmon with grilled salmon cubes, cream sauce, rocket, and cherry tomatoes. Bill had linguini with Seeteufel (fish) and vegetables. We washed it all down with Montepulciano and sparkling water. It was a great lunch and a nice afternoon… and now I’m kind of tired.

We did stop by the Trueffel Feinkost downtown to buy a bottle of wine. Bill needed to break some big Euro bills. While we were there, I noticed some very cute pooches. I think my mom would like Wiesbaden. It’s a very charming town with lots of cute shops and people with fancy dogs.

I’m still getting over whatever crud it was that I got in Czechia. I’m mostly fine, but still fatigue easily and cough a bit. I’d like to move on in my Czech tour series, and maybe I will after I have a shower… It really is a beautiful day. I’m glad if I have to feel crummy, we’re at home. I can at least enjoy the backyard in my nightie, right? 😉

Now back to my Czech tour series…

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