Monthly Archives: October 2017

advice, Germany

“American food” according to Germans…

A few days ago, Bill became aware of a special sale going on at the local Lidl.  They were selling their interpretations of “American” snack foods.  Because Bill and I are easily entertained and we have seen some interesting European adaptations of American foods, we decided to pick up a few items and try them.  Yesterday was the perfect day to do our experiment since the weather was bad and I happened to have a touch of pink eye thanks to contact lenses and allergies.

 

We visited the Lidl in Nagold on Saturday and picked up our “treats”.

 

Bill bought a large used freezer over the summer that should have been able to handle all we’d want to bring home.  Unfortunately, the freezer is on the fritz and needs to be repaired, so we limited ourselves to three things.  We bought a “snack box”, “Southern fried chicken”, and donuts.  We haven’t had the donuts yet because after trying the snack box and the chicken, I think we were about done.  Let’s just say that German style American snack foods are kind of underwhelming.

It was fun shopping for the snacks at Lidl.  You never know what or who you’ll find there.  Lidl is not a particularly large store, but they don’t just sell food there.  I saw a smattering of different items being offered.  I guess Germans would be equally puzzled by some of the things one can find in an American grocery store.

It appeared that the American snacks were all made by a brand called McEnnedy American Way, which I gather is a Lidl label inspired by our very own John F. Kennedy.  A cursory Web search informs me that American week at Lidl has been a thing for awhile.  I also see that plenty of English speaking bloggers abroad have also tried Lidl’s American Way stuff.  Score one for non-originality.

 
 

Need socks or underwear?  Lidl has you covered.

 

These displays were all over the store.  It appeared that McEnnedy was catering to the perceived American sweet tooth.

 

We don’t usually eat this kind of stuff, but…

 

Who doesn’t like the odd chicken strip?  Especially when it comes in a red, white, and blue star spangled package with the Statue of Liberty on it?

 

The popcorn was probably okay.  They had it in salted and sweet varieties.  I like popcorn, but I don’t eat it often because it gets stuck between my teeth.

 

Cake?

 

Peanut butter “flips”.  I actually really like these, but I have never seen an American version in the States.

 

The cashier was probably chuckling.  We had wine, ice cream, and various “American Way” snacks.

 

For your tyke who wants to be helpful when you shop.  Be sure to bring a coin so you can free the buggy.

So anyway, Bill brewed his latest batch of beer yesterday.  I didn’t bother to film him this time because my eyes were hurting and I needed to hide away in the darkness while they healed.  He was finished brewing by about 2:00, so that’s when we tried the “snack box”.

 
 

As you can see, the box came with plastic bagged “American” snacks and a weird sweet chili sauce.

 
 

Six anemic onion rings, six leaky cheese sticks, and six pepper cheese nuggets…

 

Bill put them in the oven at about 375 for fifteen minutes or so, then presented them to me with a beer.

 
 

They ain’t got nothin’ on TGIFriday’s…

 

The onion rings were soggy, as were the cheese sticks, which were very limp and filled with some kind of tasteless yellow cheese.  I wouldn’t say it was mozzarella, but more like a mild cheese that isn’t stretchy.  I did actually like the cheese nuggets, which had some heat to them.  They were kind of like jalapeno poppers, only the peppers were chopped up and mixed with the cheese, which had a coating on it that reminded me a little of tater tots.  Except, of course, there weren’t any potatoes involved.

Bill and I agreed the cheese nuggets were almost a hit, while the onion rings and cheese sticks were pathetic.  And the sauce that came with the snacks was both really sweet and kind of hot.  Bill liked it more than I did, because it was rather spicy.  It tasted heavily of cumin and maybe chili powder.  I don’t know what it was supposed to be, but it didn’t remind me of America, for better or worse.

A few hours later, Bill prepared the “Southern crunchy chicken”.  Bill and I both happen to be from the southern United States, so we’ve had our share of good chicken.  We had some hope for McEnnedy’s version.

 
 

Again with the plastic bags…  Good thing we don’t live in Rwanda.

 

We got a couple of drumsticks, a couple of chicken strips, and a couple of wings…

After baking the chicken for a half an hour at 400 degrees Fahrenheit, we sat down to sample the chicken.  I didn’t have high expectations and my expectations were basically met…  The chicken tasted okay, although it was a bit bland.  It was also covered in heavy breading.  Had the folks at McEnnedy added a few more herbs and spices to the breading, the chicken probably would have been more appealing.  I would say we liked the chicken more than the snack box.

Maybe next time Lidl does “American week”, we’ll get more ambitious and try some of their more exotic offerings.  Or maybe not.  There’s so much good food to be had in Europe that there’s no reason to bother with this crap more than a time or two.  Anyway, my curiosity is now satisfied, although we still have donuts to try.  I’ll wait for my next hormonal storm or rainy day for those.

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Lunch at Il Due in Nagold…

I have been wanting to try Il Due (the two), an Italian restaurant in Nagold, for ages.  We went there one night and they were totally full.  Most times, when we visit Nagold, we notice this restaurant right off the main square is completely packed.  Although I was struggling with very irritated eyes thanks to fall allergies, we decided to go to Nagold today… and wonder of wonders, we managed to get a table at Il Due.

The place was rather full, but not entirely so.  We sat down next to a very pleasant looking German couple who were very friendly to us.  After we ordered drinks, they moved to another recently vacated table because they ran into another couple they knew and were invited to join them.  I didn’t know it at the time, but the same thing would happen to us about an hour later.

Anyway, Bill and I decided to order from today’s specials.  Bill had a glass of Pinot Grigio and I had a glass the Barbera region in Piemonte.  He had ravioli with Steinpilzen (stone mushrooms) and I had Seeteufel (monkfish) with black tagliatelle and vegetables.  The dining room was energetic, with plenty of of locals enjoying the Italian fare.  I’m pretty sure there was a birthday party going on in a private dining room, too.  We saw people leaving with bouquets of flowers.

Bill studies the menu.  We had plenty of time to look at the menu because service was a little slow.  No big deal, though.

There were only a couple of women taking care of the whole dining room, so service was a bit slow.  It wasn’t a big deal, though, because we weren’t in a hurry.  Our big plan after lunch had us going to the Lidl to buy German style American food for tomorrow’s blog post.  When our food did arrive, it didn’t disappoint.  I could see why Il Due is so popular.

A well stocked wine shelf.  Il Due has a nice bar area with padded benches.  

I went with a Barbera that was on special.  It had really nice jammy flavors with rich red fruits and was just very slightly effervescent.  Bill had the house Pinot Grigio, which was tart, but not all that exciting.  He liked it fine.

Bill’s ravioli, which was priced at about 14 euros.  It was filled with mild mushrooms and topped with rocket, freshly shaved Parmesan cheese, and a cream sauce.  I didn’t try it because mushrooms are of the devil.  But Bill loved it.

I was very happy with my choice, which sold for 24,80.  I’m pretty sure the price was mainly because of the saffron cream sauce.  Seeteufel is monkfish, which is also known as angler.  It’s very dense and reminds me a bit of catfish, without the dirt essence that usually comes with catfish.  It was lightly fried and served with black tagliatelle, black because it was infused with squid ink.  And there were lightly sauteed green beans, carrots, and broccoli.  I really enjoyed this dish, though I couldn’t finish the pasta.

As we were eating, Bill noticed the family that lives across the street from us.  They sat at a table at the back of the restaurant and didn’t notice us by the window.  Just as we were finishing lunch, they saw us and we ended up hanging out for awhile.  I had a couple more glasses of wine, switching to primitivo, which was also very nice had a pleasant vanilla essence.  Our neighbor had a rose that she said was a bit sweet.  We ended up having a great chat and I almost felt a little sad for the wait staff, since they were having their “pause”.  I will note that they were very gracious.  Our neighbors’ daughter had tiramisu for dessert.  The neighbor had a beer; his wife had another glass of wine and so did I.  And we finally got to know each other better after having lived across the street from each other for three years.

I guess Il Due is that kind of place… where people meet and hang out.  We saw more than a few people running into each other there today.  The food was very good.  The service was pleasant and professional.  I would not hesitate to visit again, although I would recommend reservations if you’re going on a popular night like Friday or Saturday.  It’s not a big restaurant and it’s very popular in Nagold.  Pizza and pasta is available, as well as fish and beef.  Warmly recommended!

In warmer months, outdoor seating is available.

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Two Americans at a Schlachtfest…

About a year ago, I found out from our local weekly paper that our town was having a Schlactfest.  It was being held by a local evangelical church.  I asked my German friend Susanne about it.  She told me it’s an annual thing.  It’s strictly to raise money.  There would be no religious pressure, which was a concern Bill had.

Well, we went to the Schlachtfest, but by the time we got there, it was really crowded and we were overwhelmed by the process.  We ended up walking around looking at what was going on, but we didn’t actually eat.  This year, when I found out the Schlachtfest was going on again, I told Bill we should go early and actually try the food.  So that’s what we did.

The Schlachtfest started at 11:30am and we got there at about noon.  We spent a couple of minutes looking bewildered as we tried to figure out what to do.  Finally, Bill told me to go save us a couple of seats and he went and bought tickets, which was the right thing to do.  There were three options today.  A Schlachtplatte was the biggest and most expensive option.  It consisted of two sausages, a very large piece of bacon, and sauerkraut.  There was Schnitzel, which came with green salad and potato salad.  There was also Bratwurst, which came with a green salad, potato salad, and bread.  I was intrigued by the Schlachtplatte, but then I got a look at it and decided to stick with the Schnitzel.

So, Bill bought the tickets and we took seats across from a young guy who was enjoying a Schnitzel. I think he was getting a big kick out of us, because we’re clearly not really locals.  Food runners came up to us and asked what to bring us.  Bill handed him our tickets and they brought us our food.  Then a guy came through with a cart laden with beer, wine, water, and soda.  We gave her our tickets for two beers (they also had alcohol free radlers), and received two room temperature beers.

As I explained last year, a Schlachtfest is a festival dedicated to meat.  It typically involves the ceremonial slaughter of a pig, which is then used to make sausages and schnitzels.  Our fest here in Jettingen also involves the sale of cakes made by the a local women’s club.  I would have liked to have tried them, but they were going to be brought out until 1:30pm and we were both too full to think of eating cake after all we got.  Seriously… this has been a weekend of cheap eats.  My schnitzel and Bill’s bratwurst and two beers cost just sixteen euros.  But it was a lot of food.

When you walk in, you buy your tickets.  I see the Schlachtplatte is one euro more expensive this year.

Then you search for a place to sit.  We were there early enough to easily find a spot.  When the food runner comes up to you, hand them your ticket and they will bring you your food and silverware.

Big table where the food was coming out.  It was all very well organized.

A little beer…

Salad.

Sorry, I had to laugh at the bratwurst.  It was a little obscene looking!  But Bill said it was delicious.  After trying it myself, I have to agree.  It was very good sausage and obviously fresh.  The young guy across from us was laughing, probably because he could tell what I was thinking.  I have a dirty mind.

My schnitzel, of which I only finished half.

 

We weren’t the only ones who were confused about the process.  A German lady approached Bill and asked him what to do.  I was very proud to hear him tell her in German what the process was.  As I looked around, I noticed that everyone seemed to be in a really good mood.  Neighbors were enjoying each other’s company.  In fact, we saw one of our neighbors, as well as the mayor of Jettingen.  It’s a very well attended event.

We were smart to get there early, though.

The above two pics were what I could get of the Schlachtplatte, which is no doubt very popular with the locals.  I don’t like sauerkraut, though, and I tend to be leery of certain types of sausage.  I will eat haggis though, so go figure that one.

Another shot of the crowd.  If it’s like last year, there will probably be a concert later.

They even had games for the kids out in the lobby.

Chances are good that if you’re living in Germany, there’s a Schlachtfest near you, too.  You can go with the family, enjoy some cheap food and local camaraderie, and maybe even take in a concert if you hang around long enough.  I’m kind of tempted to send Bill back there for cakes to go.  They also had a waffle station and a book table, which Bill originally thought was a “butcher table”.  I had to remind him of the German words for book and butcher.

If we’re still here next year, we’ll have to go again with more of an appetite.

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Now I’ve experienced a German buffet…

So…  Now I can say I’ve been to a German buffet.  Until tonight, I didn’t realize such a thing existed here in Deutschland.  I thought it was strictly an American thing.  But no, if you know where to go, you can eat like a horse for not so many euros.  And now that I’ve done it, I don’t know if I want to do it again.  But I am very happy to share my experiences for the curious.

You may be wondering how Bill and I wound up eating at the Restaurant Waldachtal tonight.  It’s quite simple.  I fell prey to Facebook advertising.  Bill and I currently live in Unterjettingen, which is on the edge of the Black Forest.  I get ads for businesses in this area.  One ad that kept popping up on my timeline was for the Restaurant Waldachtal, which is apparently somehow affiliated with a large hotel in the little town of Waldachtal.  They kept advertising their Brazilian Steakhouse night, which looked exotic and fun.  Incidentally, they do the Brazilian thing on Friday nights.  On Saturday nights, they do the “American Buffet” for 18 euros a person.  That, right there, should have been a big clue… as well as the info for bus tours.  Always remember that German style American food often loses something in the translation.

The sign at the bottom of the hill.

Bill has been in Morocco all week and we needed a night out.  We decided to head to Waldachtal, a town that, as the crow flies, isn’t too far from where we live.  It’s kind of southwest of Unterjettingen, on the way to Freudenstadt.  I realize that many of my more local readers will still think this is a really long way from them.  The fact is, they’d be right.  I’m not all that sure that the vast majority of my local readers will want to bother to visit this place unless they are either big fans of buffets or they are very curious about the Brazilian Steakhouse deal (which I confess Bill and I still are).

Shades of Dirty Dancing…

I made an online reservation last night.  That was ABSOLUTELY the right thing to do.  Evidently the “American Buffet” on Saturday nights is very popular and the place was packed this evening.  Not only was the restaurant hosting a wedding reception, there was also a birthday party and lots of hungry families had congregated for dinner.  And yes, at about 7:30pm, a large busload of tourists showed up.

Just getting to this restaurant was challenging, because the GPS tried to put us on a back road that was closed.  Once we took the long way, which wasn’t actually too far from where we live, we managed to find the large restaurant on the hillside.  It kind of has the look of a resort… because I believe it is a resort.  I was catching Dirty Dancing vibes as I climbed the steps to the door.  When we entered the very busy restaurant, we were met by a middle-aged woman who appeared to be extremely pissed off and completely over her job.

She stopped and asked us what us what we wanted.  Bill told her we had reservations.  She consulted what appeared to be a repurposed flip chart and noticed our name.  Apparently we didn’t have a table assigned to us because we must have been among the last people to reserve.  She turned to Bill, totally exasperated, and said, “Kein Tisch!” (no table) as she made a helpless gesture with her arms.

I am generally very patient with wait staff, because I once waited tables myself, and have felt the pain. Still, the place was a zoo and I was wondering if we really should stay for dinner.  Finally, the lady told a younger woman to take us to a table for six.  We would have to share it with another party.  No biggie.

So we sat down, ordered a couple of weizens from a much cheerier and younger waitress, and I went to get my food while Bill hung out at the table and watched my purse.  In order to get to the food, I walked past a crowded bar area, through a foyer, and down a narrow hall that appeared to be half of a wait station.  Then the room opened into a larger dining area where there were several large, empty tables that were probably intended for the people who were arriving on the bus.

As promised, there were plenty of stations full of food.  I found barbecued chicken, hamburger patties, duck, salmon, grilled shrimp, steaks, spare ribs, soups, salads, and sides.  There was also a large dessert station.  I was surprised by the sheer range of food available.  Most of it was pretty good quality… probably better than what you’d find at a typical American buffet restaurant like Old Country Buffet.  I also noticed it wasn’t populated by a lot of elderly people like American buffets often are.  We saw mostly young and/or large families tonight.

Part of the buffet.  There was more to my right and left and behind me.

They had curry and rice.

Salmon…

 

Spare ribs, which were pretty good, and potatoes that were just a hair underdone.

This was what I came back with.  It was more than I could eat.  The chicken was a hit.  The sauce was kind of spicy… spicier than most things I’ve had in Germany.  They had cheese sticks and onion rings, too.  Actually, there was a whole lot of food to choose from and most of it was pretty good quality.

When I got back to the table, Bill informed me that the other folks who were sitting at our table were three young guys under age 20.  I was immediately amused, because I have seen my fair share of young guys eating at buffets.  I had a feeling these three guys were going to chow down.  I was right.  I was alone for a couple of minutes before the guys showed up and our waitress apologized that we had to share the table.  It was not a problem, really.  The guys were perfect gentlemen and kind of funny.

I told Bill I could see a stiff martini in his future.

 

There was a birthday party going on near our table, so there were a number of kids.  This restaurant is, by the way, very kid friendly.  I think kids, as a rule, love buffets.  Imagine… they don’t have to wait; they can eat whatever and however much they want; and they are guaranteed dessert.  In any case, because there were kids near us, we did have a few who entertained us.  One little boy stopped and stared at us for a couple of minutes.  Maybe he was puzzled because we were speaking English.  Another girl, dressed in a fluffy pink frock with silver sparkles, had an ice cream cone and was entertaining herself and a few peers by holding the cone under a bright lamp and watching the ice cream melt.  We got to hear them sing Happy Birthday in German and watched as the one year old birthday girl blew our her candle.  The older kids enjoyed multiple ice cream cones.

And, of course, there were the young, fit looking lads who were sitting with us.  They knew we were American because Bill warned them.  I watched them each eat a large plate full of food.  Then, they got up and headed back to the buffet.  I said, “Bill, do you think they will come back with more meat or dessert?”

Bill and I both agreed they were going to load up on meat.  Sure enough, that’s what they did.  One of them smiled at me and said, “Round two.” as he dove in to another big plate of food.  I don’t remember ever being able to eat like a young man, but I have watched a few of them put away some food.  It’s almost always really funny, because they are obviously able to burn it off.

One of the young guys was wearing this jacket.  I had to take a picture of the tag, because it was in English and rather amusing…

Bill got me dessert.  I asked for a little tiramisu, but he brought that with a couple of cookies and a small scoop of raspberry ice cream.  Always the provider!  The tiramisu tasted good, but it was a bit heavier than what I’m used to.  I wonder if they used quark instead of mascarpone cheese…

 

As we were eating dessert, the young waitress came back and told the young guys that she had a table open.  They moved to a new spot, so I don’t know if they went back for thirds.  She needn’t have bothered, though, because Bill and I were about done anyway.  We just happened to get there first.  We told the pissy older waitress that we wanted the check and she rolled her eyes, but apparently passed on the message to our younger, pluckier, server.  After about fifteen minutes or so, the cheerier lass showed up with the bill, which came to 43 euros before the tip.  After Bill paid, she gave us a coupon worth five euros off our next visit.  Don’t know when that will be, but it was a nice gesture.

Bill is thrilled.  He had to double check to make sure he didn’t try to pay in dirhams.

 

While we were waiting to settle up, I remarked that the Restaurant Waldachtal reminded me a little of the Marketplace at the Edelweiss Lodge in Garmisch-Partenkirchen.  It sort of has the same ambiance, with murals on the walls, a gazebo, and a “beachy” themed area near the bar.  The food is mostly better than what I remember at the Edelweiss and it’s a bit cheaper, but the ambiance is very much the same.  It’s loud and raucous, like a college dining hall or… perhaps the AAFES food court.  But, I will say, I thought the chicken was good and the spare ribs were decent.  The steak appeared to be of dubious quality.  The burgers were very thin and unimpressive and, if you wanted cheese, it wouldn’t be melted, but you could have as many burgers and steaks as you wanted.

We may try this restaurant again on a Friday night, just to see if their Brazilian Steakhouse experiment is worthwhile.  I doubt we’ll do the American Buffet again, but now at least I can tell people that I’ve been to a German style American Buffet and lived to tell the tale.  And, if you happen to be near the Black Forest and like buffets, maybe it would be worth visiting.  Just make sure you reserve first, especially on a Saturday night.  Tonight, the place was packed and, even though we had a reservation, we wondered for a couple of minutes if we would be seated.  Frankly, my guess is that most of the Americans around here would probably do better to look elsewhere.

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Whisky distilleries I have known…

Although Bill and I usually make a point of going places on the weekends, he had to leave for Africa this morning.  Fortunately, I happened to be inspired to write today’s post thanks to a thread in one of the local Facebook groups.  A woman wrote that her husband loves scotch whisky and was interested in visiting some in Scotland while they are living in Germany.

Bill and I have so far been to eight whisky distilleries, entirely thanks to our sailings on Hebridean Island Cruises‘ Hebridean Princess.  Since Hebridean Princess mostly sails around Scotland and only occasionally ventures to other lands, there is a heavy emphasis on Scotland’s national drink on that ship.  Each of our four voyages on Hebridean Princess has included at least one stop at a whisky distillery.  We have even been to two of them twice.

Last year, Bill and I signed up for “The Spirit of Scotland” trip Hebridean was doing.  It was a whisky themed cruise, which meant we would be visiting different distilleries every day.  Last month, we cruised to Northern Ireland and Ireland and that trip also included a stop at a distillery in Scotland.  Although I don’t expect my readers to visit whisky distilleries via cruise ship, I thought today’s post could be a “one stop shop” for a look at the ones Bill and I have seen.

One thing you will learn if you come to Scotland intent on tasting whisky, is that there are several different styles of scotch whisky: Highland, Lowland, Speyside, Campbeltown, and Islay.  Bill and I visited Edinburgh at the end of our first Scotland trip in November 2012.  Although we had already been to a couple of distilleries, it was at the Scotch Whisky Experience in Edinburgh that we got a really good introduction to the different styles of scotches out there, as well as the many different whiskeys made around the world.  If your trip involves a stop in Edinburgh, I would highly recommend going there first and visiting the Scotch Whisky Experience for a primer on the different types of Scottish spirits you will encounter.  You’ll also get to see a very impressive collection of scotches and even try a few.

 

Just some of the huge collection at the Scotch Whisky Experience in Edinburgh.

 

The world’s largest bottle of Single Malt Scotch Whisky is at the Scotch Whisky Experience.

 
 

Here goes…

1.  Isle of Arran Distillery

The Isle of Arran Distillery is, naturally, located on the Isle of Arran in Lochranza, at the northern end of the island.  The area around the distillery is absolutely beautiful and remote.  Arran is the first whisky distillery Bill and I ever visited and we have since been there twice.  Founded in 1995, the Isle of Arran Distillery has a very nice visitor’s center with a gift shop and a cafe.  Although you can drop in and take a tour, it is recommended that you book in advance, particularly during the summer.  Arran whiskies are excellent, but I am especially fond of Arran Gold, which is kind of like Bailey’s Irish Cream.  Tours are conducted all day and cost 8 GBP each.

 
 

The first casks of whisky made at Isle of Arran Distillery.  It was in 1998 when the first casks were opened, since it takes three years to make whisky.

 
 

Sorry my finger got caught by the camera.  This is the facade of the distillery.  We have toured it twice; both times, our guides were kilted gentlemen with delightful Scottish brogues who introduced us to their product.  When we visited last, in March 2016, the flags were at half mast because the founder, Harold Currie, had just died.  Harold Currie was the former director of Chivas.  

2.  Springbank Distillery

Springbank Distillery makes some of my favorite whiskies.  It’s also the other distillery Bill and I have visited twice.  I always enjoy visiting Springbank, because it’s one of just a few distilleries left in Campbeltown, Scotland.  There was a time when Campbeltown was home to many distilleries, but many of them closed at the start of the 20th century.  Today, Campbeltown is host to Springbank, Glen Scotia, and Glengyle.

Springbank is a very old style distillery and uses a lot of old fashioned equipment to create its spirits.  It’s also the only distillery in Scotland that performs every step of the whisky making process, from malting the barley to bottling the spirit.  For that reason alone, I think it’s worth a stop.  An added benefit is that there’s a great whisky shop just steps away from the distillery.  Tours are offered several times a day Monday through Friday and twice daily on Saturdays.  They have several different levels of tours available, too– everything from a basic trip through to distillery (7 GBP) to one that includes a personal tour with whisky legend Frank McHardy and lunch (100 GBP).

 
 
 

A fewshots of the Springbank Distillery.  The picture of the barrels was from our 2012 visit.  Last year, they did not show us the warehouse.

 

3. Glengoyne Distillery

We got a pretty special deal when we visited the Glengoyne Distillery in Dumgoyne, just north of Glasgow.  The ship had arranged for us to be able to blend our own whisky.  A simple tour is 9.50 GBP, but apparently we were all booked on the Malt Master Tour (65 GBP).  We all sat around a table and took whiskys from five different cask to make our own individual blends.  Bill and I still have our own blends.  We did taste them a couple of months ago, but haven’t had the heart to finish them yet.  Glengoyne is also notable because the distillery is located just north of the line that distinguishes Highland and Lowland whiskys.  Glengoyne’s stills are located in the Highland region; while just across the street, the maturing casks rest in the Lowlands.  This is another place well worth a visit if you’re into scotch.

 

I was standing in the Lowlands taking a picture of fellow passengers in the Highlands.

 

A shot of our “malt master” class.  It was pretty cool!

 
 
 

Different types of oaks used for the barrels.

 

And the resulting whisky…  Notice the bottles on the bottom have less in them.  This is known as the “angel’s share”, and it’s part of the process of evaporation that occurs when whisky is made.

 

4.  Laphroaig Distillery

Laphroaig Distillery is located on the Isle of Islay, an island every scotch drinker must visit.  Islay is home to a whole bunch of whisky distilleries.   It’s also a very beautiful place.  The Laphroaig Distillery and brand is currently owned by Beam Suntory, which is a subsidiary of the Japan’s Suntory.  Of all of the distilleries I’ve visited so far, I think Laphroaig’s visitor center is among the most impressive.  They have a really interesting exhibit you can look at while you wait for your tour to start.  They allow visitors to try the wort, too, which I recommend doing just once.  Just make sure they offer it to you in a disposable cup.  Trust me on this.  You should get a cup of your own at this distillery.

At the end of our tour, I distinctly remember they gifted us with souvenir whisky glasses.  A basic tour costs 10 GBP, though they have more detailed tours available at correspondingly higher prices.  You can even try your hand at cutting peat if you want to.

 
 
 

Barley being malted.  You will also see this at Springbank and Kilchoman Distilleries.

 

The Laphroaig Distillery also offers a great view of Port Ellen.

 

5.  Kilchoman Distillery

Kilchoman is one of the newest distilleries.  It opened in 2005 and is situated on a beautiful farm in a rural part of Islay.  It has the distinction of being the first distillery to be built on Islay in 124 years and, until recently, it was the westernmost distillery in Scotland.  That honor is now claimed by Abhainn Dearg Distillery on the Isle of Lewis.  Kilchoman also does its own malting and is one of only six distilleries in Scotland doing traditional floor maltings.  I really enjoyed touring Kilchoman, which also offers a liqueur as well as several different whiskys.  A basic tour at Kilchoman costs 7 GBP, while a premium tour runs 30 GBP and includes a tutored tasting.

One thing I do want to mention about this tour is that we were offered a taste of the wort there.  They passed around a communal container and, I’m pretty sure, that is where I picked up norovirus.  I got very sick with diarrhea and vomiting.  Fortunately, it happened in the wee hours of our very last night on the ship, so it didn’t devastate our cruise.  Still, it was a really stupid mistake on my part and one I hope to spare others from making.  It’s especially important to be mindful of hygiene when you’re on a cruise.

Floor malting.

 

Our guide pours drams for us to try.  I remember enjoying a very fresh scone on the way back to the ship.  The distillery has a nice cafe where one can have lunch.

 

6. Jura Distillery

Jura Distillery is located on the Isle of Jura, a tiny community that has only one road, one pub, and one distillery.  Only 200 people live on the Isle of Jura, which makes it a very interesting place to visit.  I remember our guide explaining to us that at Jura, it’s especially possible to see the effects whisky distilleries have on trees.  All of the trees near Jura Distillery were black.  Apparently, in the United Kingdom, the authorities can tell how much whisky is being distilled simply by looking at the trees.  Although I was getting a little fatigued of distilleries when we visited, I do remember thinking Jura’s history was especially interesting.  Tours cost 6 GBP.  Afterwards, you can visit the one pub on the island.

 
 

Jura’s Distillery.  I’m not sure they have a grocery store on Jura, but they sure do have whisky.

7. Oban Distillery

 

Oban Distillery was the last one we visited on our “scotch whisky” tour.  It’s a very compact place because it was built next to a cliff.  Originally established in 1794, Oban Distillery is actually older than the town of Oban itself.  I distinctly remember our guide telling us about Oban Distillery’s 14 year old malt, which is very well-regarded.  Three years ago, they also started selling a non age statement whisky called Little Bay.  Oban is one of the smallest distilleries in Scotland, mainly because when they were excavating the cliff behind the distillery, they found human remains.  Also, people started building on top of the cliff, which made expansion in its current location very difficult.

 
 
 

Oban Distillery also has a very informative exhibit available to peruse while you wait for your tour.

8. Bruichladdich

Finally, we have Bruichladdich, another Islay distillery located in Port Charlotte on the Isle of Islay.  Bill and I visited Bruichladdich last month while we were on our Northern Ireland cruise.  We were originally supposed to visit Bowmore, but that got cancelled.  Then we were going to visit Lagavulin, but then our itinerary got switched around.  So that’s how we ended up at Bruichladdich, which also makes The Botanist gins.  This distillery is another one I think is well worth seeing if only because of the very cool old equipment they still use.  One of the mashtuns is from the Victorian era and is one of only a few still in existence and the only one on the island.  They also use a still from 1881, which was when the distillery was founded.  And they have a still called Ugly Betty that is used for making gin.  This distillery also has a very colorful and interesting history best told by someone who sounds like a Scot.

We found the distillery to be very liberal about allowing tastings.  Our guide told us that if there was anything under 200 GBP we wanted to try, just let her know.  They have a really nice shop, too.  I brought home a beautiful wool blanket from there.

 
 
 

Very old equipment… this is from the Victorian era.

 

The two pictures above show the different ages of the washbacks.

 

Ugly Betty

 

1881!

 

If this post inspires you to visit any distilleries, I encourage you to bring a designated driver or hire a cab.  You don’t want to be driving drunk, especially in a place like Islay, which has a lot of narrow roads with tons of potholes.  Also, presuming that most of my readers are not used to driving on the left, it would be especially risky to drive after tasting whisky at the distilleries.

I think the way Bill and I visited these distilleries was pretty much ideal.  We had a coach that took us to them, so we were free to enjoy as much as we wanted.  On our whisky tour, we enjoyed the services of John Harbour, a professional tour guide.   Mr. Harbour was engaged by Hebridean Island Cruises for us and was with us the whole week, but you can also book him privately.  I would highly recommend him because he’s very knowledgable and will handle the driving.  Here’s a link to his Facebook page.

Although I’m not sure if Hebridean Island Cruises is going to be offering the Scotch Whisky tour again, I would recommend looking to them if your budget allows.  It’s a marvelous way to see Scotland, albeit not kid friendly and very expensive.  We did have a blast, though, and I don’t think I will ever forget how scotch whisky is made after seeing all of those distilleries!

 

Click here for a sequel to this post— eight more whisky distilleries I have known.

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Nagold

Shrimp salad and brats at Luz Bistro in Nagold…

ETA in 2025: Luz Bistro is no longer open.

Apologies for the fact that today’s review is of a place Bill and I have enjoyed several times since we’ve been living near Nagold.  We had really beautiful weather today and Bill decided he needed to drag me away from the computer for lunch.  It was late in the afternoon and we knew Luz Bistro in Nagold would offer food for those of us who don’t eat lunch at noon.  We have eaten at Luz enough times to know that the food and service would be good.  With the unseasonably warm and sunny weather, we knew we couldn’t go wrong today.  Bill is also leaving for a business trip tomorrow and will be gone a few days, so we knew we had to do something this afternoon.

We decided to enjoy the terrace, which was open and unshaded.  Personally, I would have liked it if a couple of umbrellas had been open for those of us who are light skinned, light haired, and light eyed. I am generally rather sensitive to the sun, but I’m particularly sensitive right now.  For some reason, my eyes have been giving me a lot of trouble.  I think it’s due to allergies.  My dog, Zane, has the same problem and actually went to the vet today because one of his eyes is all puffy and bloodshot.  I have the same problem, but I haven’t been to an eye doctor yet.  We’re still looking for one, if anyone has suggestions  😉

It was about 2:30pm when we got to the restaurant.  That’s when they have their short menu, which basically consists of lighter or simpler fare.  They have Wiener Schnitzel, a couple of salads, bratwurst, and flammkuchen, as well as desserts.  I was a little hungry, but not ravenous.  For the second week in a row, I went with a salad.  What an interesting trend for me!

We ordered a bottle of gray burgundy (a pinot gris) from the restaurant’s proprietor.  It was nice enjoying white wine in the sun, even if there was a guy smoking a stogie near us.

I think Bill had been planning on having beer, but I talked him into the wine, which he enjoyed.  It was 26 euros for the bottle.

 

There was a lady sitting behind me who was speaking rapid fire German with an Irish accent, which Bill immediately picked up on.  I was reminded of earlier this week, as I watched old ER episodes on iTunes and a guy was on there speaking Armenian with an American accent.  I don’t pretend to be fluent in Armenian by any stretch, but I did live there for over two years and had to use the language. It’s funny to hear it spoken with an American accent, although the actor speaks better than I ever will!  He was clearly born and raised in California, though, where there are many Americans who are ethnic Armenians and learn the language.  I ran into quite a few of them twenty years ago when I lived in Armenia.  They were coming there to go to dental or medical school.  “Western” Armenian is different than “Eastern” Armenian, though, and I was kind of proud to be able to tell the difference.  Especially since I have both a former Armenian teacher and one of my former Armenian students as Facebook friends.

Enough about my time in Armenia… on to the food.  I didn’t take a lot of pictures today because I was updating my phone during lunch and I prefer to use the phone for restaurant reviews because it’s somewhat less conspicuous.  Maybe it’s because I was born in the 1970s, but I feel weird taking pictures of food in restaurants.  But I also know they are an essential part of my reviews.  So feast your eyes…

This was my huge shrimp salad, which came with garlic bread (which wasn’t all that garlicky).  The salad was really nice, though.  It included four perfectly clean, generously sized, grilled shrimp.  I couldn’t finish this.  It was a lot of roughage covered with a very pleasing creamy dressing.  It reminded me a little of Ranch… perhaps slightly more delicately flavored.  I had lettuce, cucumbers, and corn to go with the shrimp.  I don’t usually go for a lot of dressing on my salads, but this was pretty perfect.  Not too much and not too little.  It was priced at just under 16 euros.

Bill had bratwurst with potato salad.  I tasted his sausage, which was grilled to perfection and came with mustard and bread.  It was very good, although perhaps a little heavy for such a pretty day.  This would be great in colder weather.  Bill said he wished he’d had the salad, although the sausage and salad were tasty.

All told, our bill came to about 61 euros before the tip.  The ladies who took care of us have waited on us before and were very professional, as usual.  It’s always a pleasure dining at Luz Bistro/Alte Post in Nagold.  We’re going to have to go back soon for an evening in their full scale restaurant like we had last spring.

If you live near Nagold, Luz Bistro is a nice place to have a “grown up” lunch at any time of the afternoon.  It’s really nice that they’re so close to where we live.

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Uncategorized

Using travel reviews to decide when to book a place to stay…

Last night, I decided to do a little shopping for our next trip.  There are several places I want to visit.  Some places are more urgent than others are.  For example, I really want to get to Berlin before we leave Germany.  Other places are more “bucket list” type spots.

Hmm…

One place I was really considering visiting was a B&B in the Champagne region in France.  I had found the B&B the last time we lived here, but we never got around to visiting.  Years later, I see they’re still in business and they have more reviews than ever.  Most of the reviews are glowing, though they did get a few that were less than stellar.

I do pay close attention to comments left by previous guests, but I pay even closer attention to the responses left by the hosts.  I believe that anyone in the hospitality business should realize that sometimes people aren’t going to like what’s offered.  Sometimes they will leave negative comments.  No one can please everyone all the time, so it is what it is.  However, when a host’s comments are snarky or overly offended, I tend to want to steer clear of that property.  Such was the case with the B&B I mentioned earlier in this post, a place that currently has an overall score of 8.2 on Booking.com.

Have a look at this comment left by a guest.

A review from 2012…

As someone who has been mistaken for pregnant before, I could definitely feel this lady’s pain.  It’s just one of those things better left unmentioned.  I can’t blame her for being upset.  Maybe some would accuse her of being overly sensitive.  Maybe I might even give the owner the benefit of the doubt.  But then I read his response.

Clearly, her review pissed him off and he felt the need to retaliate by referring to her as “sensitive” and vaguely accusing her of stretching the truth.

I have to admit, reading the “sensitive lady’s” review made me decide not to book this particular B&B.  When I go on trips, the last thing I want to deal with is offensive remarks from a host.  I see similarly snarky remarks the owner left on other lowly rated reviews that make me think he may be a bit of a jerk.

I made a similar decision not to book a highly acclaimed property in Amsterdam because of comments left by the proprietors.  Here’s an example.

And the manager’s response is below.

There are actually a number of snarky comments like this one on Trip Advisor for this particular hotel.  The manager seems kind of “colorful”.  

 

I can totally understand why people in the hospitality business want to defend their product.  However, being in the hospitality business means actually being hospitable.  Sometimes that means biting your tongue.  I distinctly remember reading reviews of this hotel and wondering if I should book it just to see if the manager would get “snotty” with me.  Then I realized that Amsterdam has lots of hotels to choose from and why would I book one in search of a really bad time?

Granted, sometimes people do complain about stupid shit.  But when a hotel proprietor gets caught with their pants down, it’s probably best not to get too snippy about the guests who catch them.  We once stayed at a B&B in Key West, Florida.  It was not a bad place.  For awhile after our stay, I read the reviews left by other guests.  One guy, a man from Australia, took pictures of the mattress in the room where he stayed.  It appeared that someone had peed on it.  He posted the picture on TripAdvisor and one of the proprietors came back very defensively instead of apologetically.  Basically, he claimed he was too poor to either have the mattress cleaned or replaced.  That may very well be the case, but the guest’s complaint was entirely valid.  I see now, it’s been removed from the reviews.

It’s not as easy to find reviews of self-catering places.  I do pay close attention to what people say on Booking.com when I use that site to reserve a place.  I am even more careful to pay close attention to any management responses.  Fortunately, when I have left negative reviews, most of the responses have been professional.  I am not too hard to please anyway, though, even though I do enjoy writing the odd vent now and again.  It’s probably best to keep things civil by all means.

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Germany, restaurant reviews

Sausages at the Sindelfinger Paulaner Bar…

Today, Bill and I decided to take an exciting trip to Panzer to pick up a few things.  I bought some new makeup, a couple of dog toys, a couple of picture frames to replace two that broke, and a new Bose SoundTouch 20.  I am now fruitlessly trying to entertain myself getting the new SoundTouch working and wishing things were as simple as they were when I was a kid.  Back then, we pleased ourselves with cassettes and CDs.

After we did our shopping, we decided to go into Sindelgfingen and try the Paulaner Bar.  It’s right across the street from the big Stern Center and close to the Turkish supermarket on the main drag into town.  I had spotted the Paulaner Bar on an earlier visit to Sindelfingen and thought it looked interesting.  The restaurant doesn’t have much of a Web site, but we did notice that it’s open from 11:00am until midnight every day.  It also has some dedicated parking spots in a garage around the corner.  The spots also appear to be free of charge, although you must use your Parkschein.

There’s a pleasant looking outdoor area that I suspect will be history as the weather gets colder.

So, anyway, we showed up at about 1:00pm.  We opened the door and noticed a few tables were occupied.  A cheerful looking young woman sporting a dirndl greeted us as we took a seat.  We were invited to choose whichever table we wanted.  I noticed there was a cozy looking bar, but since the place wasn’t very busy, we took one of the smaller tables.  It appeared to seat about six people.

The vantage point of the bar from our table.

 

The inside of the Paulaner bar is kind of dimly lit and, if I’m honest, a little depressing.  It could be because it was so quiet today.  A lot of people are probably enjoying the last day of the of Canstatter Volksfest and, let’s face it, there are plenty of places where one can enjoy a German repast in these parts.  Nevertheless, although the ambiance was a little depressing today, the inside of the restaurant is kind of quaint, if not a bit grungy.

Bill and I enjoyed a couple of weizens while we decided on what to eat…

Naturally, this restaurant has the kind of food you’d expect at a German beer bar.  There are sausages, salads, schnitzels, schweinsaxen, sauerbraten, soups…  yeah, it’s pretty much a plethora of German specialties beginning with the letter S.  Bill was thinking about having a Hawaii Toast when I told him I wasn’t feeling like having a big lunch.  But then the waitress told him they couldn’t make Hawaii Toast today.  We both settled for sausages.

Bill had brats with brot. pictured below.  He said the brats were actually pretty nice.  They were well seasoned and fresh and there was plenty to satisfy him.  

I went with the Weiss Wurst.  These two little white sausages were served in broth with a pretzel (pictured below).  The only thing missing was mustard.  Likewise, this was plenty, and cheap, to boot.  I think my selection was under five euros.

I noticed the Paulaner Bar participates in the Nette Toilette program.  Basically, what that means is that they don’t mind if you come into the restaurant to pee if you’re walking around town.  Some towns in Germany have adopted this program.  Restaurants get paid by the city to let people use their toilets.  That way, the taxpayers don’t have to pay to build and maintain public toilets, restaurants get more people coming in and possibly ordering something, and fewer people pee outside.  I think it’s a great program.  The only other local area I’ve seen the Nette Toilette signs is Calw, though I know this is something that is done around Germany.

This sign is from Calw, but the ones in other areas look the same.

After our round of beer and sausages, we decided to head home.  On the way out of Sindelfingen, we ran into a large crowd of motorcycle riders.  Below are a couple of pictures I snapped of the action.  Unfortunately, I missed getting one of the guys dressed in pink bunny suits.  You just never know what you’re going to see when you drive in this area.

Anyway, our lunch today was pretty low key.  The food was fine and the service was cheerful and pleasant.  The mood in the Paulaner Bar was pretty downcast, but that could have to do with extenuating circumstances.  It’s probably a lot livelier on a Friday or Saturday night.  I’d say it’s not a bad place to go for cheap eats in Sindelfingen, although Funzel probably has more selection and better quality food.  If I were taking someone to a German place in Sindelfingen, I’d probably pick Funzel over the Paulaner bar in Sindelfingen; the Paulaner Bar in downtown Stuttgart is a bit better.

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Uncategorized

Lunch at Gasthaus Lamm in Herrenberg…

The day kind of got away from us today.  We got up rather late, had a late breakfast, and then Bill went to the store to pick up some things for the week.  Consequently, it wasn’t until about 1:00 that we finally decided what to do with our afternoon.  We entertained thoughts of going to a fest, but ended up going to Herrenberg, where we stopped by the Gasthaus Lamm for lunch.

Gasthaus Lamm’s sign.

The last time we visited the Gasthaus Lamm was for Thanksgiving in 2015.  We didn’t have a Thanksgiving dinner there; rather, we enjoyed a large German meal that was kind of fall inspired.  I’d been wanting to go back for some time, but this is a restaurant that is almost always packed, even during the daytime.  We noticed today that they had a sign outside signifying that after next weekend, they would only be open in the evenings.

Things will change next week!

We arrived at the restaurant at about 2:30 or so, about a half an hour before the restaurant has its afternoon pause.  There were a few tables open, so we chose one in a corner near the bar area.  One thing I like about Gasthaus Lamm is that it’s a very cozy place in an old building.  It’s very typically German, as is the food.  During the warmer months, there is outside seating available.  In winter, it’s best to make reservations because the restaurant is very popular and it’s tiny.

Bill’s typically charming expression after I tell him dirty jokes.

A pleasant young man who spoke perfect English took care of us.  We both had weizens and salads.  I had one with grilled chicken strips and Bill had one with tuna.

My salad, which was described as chicken strips with bread.  This was actually not what I was expecting, but it tasted good and was good for me.  This was priced at 10,50 and had a nice light vinaigrette and a sprinkling of seeds.

Bill’s tuna salad came with soft, mild cheese, but was basically the same set up as mine.  

 

Our bill came to 25,50, which we thought was a fair price.  I wasn’t able to finish my whole salad.

Gasthaus Lamm happens to be located right next to the Alte Brennerei, which happens to be one of our favorite bottle shops.  Although we probably should have steered clear, we went inside and ended up enjoying an impromptu rum and wine tasting.  The people in Alte Brennerei speak perfect English and are always willing to let their customers taste things.  Of course, when we taste things, we often end up buying, and that’s what happened today.  We came home with plenty of wine and rum for the rapidly cooling evenings in Germany.

I was actually thinking of going to Sindelfingen today.  Perhaps if we had gotten an earlier start, we would have gone there and tried a new restaurant.  Maybe we’ll try that tomorrow, if we don’t hit a fest.  Quite a few are going on this weekend.

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Baden-Württemberg

Contractor life with a new company…

I know a lot of people find this blog because they are seeking information about what it’s like to work for a military contractor in Germany.  Today’s post is update number three in my series about military contractor life.

If you’ve been reading earlier posts on this blog, you may know that in April of this year, Bill’s former employer lost its contract.  When we got the news, we worried about what would be coming next.  In that post, I mentioned that April is usually Easter time, and maybe the contract loss would be a blessing in disguise.  For the most part, I’d say that is what came to pass.

In May, Bill was given a tentative job offer for a government position in Italy.  We seriously considered making the move, but it soon became clear that moving to Italy would be a big, expensive hassle for us.  It appeared that not only would the salary be significantly less, but we’d also be responsible for moving ourselves and it looked like we would not get a housing allowance.  Bill applied for another government job in Germany and was on the short list for that one, but the story was the same.  The only difference was that we wouldn’t have to move.

Then, Bill was offered a job with the new contractor.  The new contractor is a much larger company than the old one and has deeper pockets.  Although they did not hire everyone from Bill’s old company, they did take most of the best people.  Bill got a significant upgrade in salary and benefits, although he will have to tolerate being a “hired gun” for a bit longer.

I can now see where people get the idea that government contractors make a lot of money, although I also know from experience that it’s not always the case.  The old company was paying a lot less– basically a salary they would give a captain in the Army rather than a retired lieutenant colonel, although the housing allowance brought the salary up to a more respectable level.  The new company pays a salary more in line with what guys like Bill should be making.

So far, the new company is better.  The contract is better written and lasts a year longer than the older one did.  Bill’s new boss is also great.  Fortunately, both companies had good people in charge who treated Bill well.  That’s a real blessing.  So, with any luck, Bill will be able to stick with this firm for awhile.

That being said…  I do love Germany very much, but I am beginning to think about what will come next.  I don’t know that we’ll want to live here for years on end, like some people do.  I don’t really miss America that much, but I would someday like to own my own home.  Also, whenever you move to a new location, there is the chance to see and do new things and meet new people.  We’ll be in Germany at least another year and probably longer, but I don’t think I’d mind moving to the next station, provided there is support and we don’t end up hanging out in Europe as tourists while we wait for things to get official.  That’s what would have happened if we had moved to Italy.

The funny thing is, the government folks in Italy are still ribbing Bill about not taking the job.  It does seem like a surreal twist of fate.  So many people complain about how hard it is to get a GS job.  Bill was offered one without even being interviewed, although that was because the Italy folks know him and know what they would be getting.  If the new company wants us to move to Italy, I’d be alright with it.  But only if they help us make the move.

I guess what it comes down to is the contractor life is not as stable as GS life is.  The lifestyle can be turbulent, and that makes it difficult to make plans.  Contractors also don’t get any authority except within their own company.

However, it is true that contractors can end up making significantly more money than government employees do and some contractors also offer superior benefits.  That is the case with Bill’s new position.  He’s making more money and getting better benefits.  And he also has a good boss who was kind enough to let Bill come to Scotland with me last month.  The only thing that does suck is that Bill has to earn leave again.  But knowing him, he’ll have those hours made up in no time.

Another bonus to the new job is that Bill’s boss has told him that the company will help him pick up some extra certifications.  For instance, Bill earned a master’s degree in cybersecurity last year.  The new company will help him become certified in that field if he wants.  Or they will help him get certified as a project manager.

Also, as a contractor, Bill has more flexibility.  He can try for jobs wherever he wants to and isn’t just limited to places where the government or military want to send him.  Granted, given what he does now, we will probably always be near a military installation.  But that does not always have to be the case.  The new company has jobs worldwide and, if Bill does well, he could certainly compete for the ones he’s qualified to do.

Frankly, I’m envious of all the opportunities Bill has.  I’m wondering if it’s not time for me to start trying to get into a career again myself.  But then I remember how much I like sitting around in my nightgown, writing blog posts.  Here’s hoping Bill’s new job lasts awhile.  I’ll just focus on being a good partner.

I get to look for more hot air balloons in the near future…

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