Schwarzwald

Baiersbronn in the Black Forest– Bareiss Style! Part six

We woke to steady rain on Saturday morning, which was a real pity. Friday night, when we were at the bar, fueled by fine food and cocktails, Bill and I gave some thought to paying a visit to the Allerheiligen Wasserfalls… yes, I know I misspelled it in German. In English, they are the All Saints Waterfalls. Bill and I discovered them in June 2018, when I read a blog by a Dutchman who had come to Germany to see waterfalls. We were enchanted by the falls, and I wanted to see them again, as the leaves are about to change, and the hotel is only a few miles away. But I didn’t want to see them in the rain.

We were also a bit in need of recovery after Friday night’s wild bar escapade. I think we’re getting to be too old to be carousing in the bar at all hours. Of course, children are allowed in the bar at Hotel Bareiss, which personally, I don’t necessarily agree with. I did see one cute little chap who appeared to be bonding with his dad, only to have his fun interrupted by a woman who showed up later. She went into the Smoker’s Lounge for a few minutes before coming back for a Whiskey Sour.

Because it was raining, I figured there would be a bunch of people at the pool, too. I wasn’t in the mood for that, so we decided to give housekeeping a chance to fix up the room while we checked out the library. When we got to the library, it was also full of people. So we went to the lobby, which was probably a better decision, as I got to ogle all of the dogs who were staying at Hotel Bareiss. There were some really sweet ones there, all of whom behaved impeccably. This hotel is the only one I know of that actually has a dog shower, where people can wash their pooches if they get dirty on a walk.

Dog shower!
The “dog shower”.

We also decided to have lunch at the Dorfstuben, which is a traditional restaurant in the hotel that serves hearty Swabian delights. They play accordion music while you sit in a quaint little stube with farmer painted furniture, enjoy local wines and beers, and eat food that will stick to your ribs. There was a lady in there– she appeared to be holding court– who seemed to know everyone! People were stopping at her table, hugging and kissing her. We later saw her in the bar, and she was getting the same familiar treatment there. I don’t know if she’s a member of the Bareiss family, or just someone who comes to the hotel a lot. Maybe she’s a local celebrity! She did seem like a very nice lady, though, and obviously has a lot of friends. Bill called her the “Grand Dame”.

Below are some photos from our delightful lunch at the Dorfstuben:

I know I have some Facebook friends who read these blog posts. I want to make mention of an incident that occurred the other day that really perturbed me. As you can see in the above gallery of photos, I had trout for lunch. It was fried, and served with tomatoes, lemon slices, and almonds, as well as oil. Fresh trout in the Schwarzwald is a real treat, if you like fish. Hotel Bareiss does it very well. They even have a restaurant that is dedicated to serving trout dishes. The restaurant, which is off site, is called the Forellenhof Buhlbach. We visited there last year, so we didn’t go this year.

I shared photos of this lunch with friends. A couple of people commented on the fact that the trout was served whole. I think Americans are grossed out by being served whole fish. I know it was hard for me to get used to when I lived in Armenia. I would buy whole fish from Lake Sevan, that might or might not be cleaned beforehand. I always cut off the head and tail before cooking it, because I don’t eat the head. Some people do eat it, though, and this is how the fish is served over here. Anyway, I got a couple of pretty rude comments about my lunch, which was absolutely delicious, by the way. A couple of people remarked that they don’t want to be “looked at” by what they’re eating. Understandable, although it might be even more jarring to realize that when you cut off the head, you’re decapitating the poor fish!

The worst comment, though, came from someone who said it looked like someone had vomited on the plate. Seriously? Even if that was true, it’s not an appropriate thing to say about someone’s lunch. Especially if they obviously enjoyed it, which I did, and you consider yourself a friend of theirs. That fish was cooked perfectly. When I reacted with an “angry” orange emoticon, and the comment, “That is not nice.” The person came back with an even worse comment.

So I felt compelled to post a request to everyone who was offended by the sight of a cooked, whole fish prepared „meunière“ style to either keep scrolling, or X out the photo without comment. It’s sad that I should have felt the need to do that, since one would hope that would be simple manners learned in childhood. I don’t have the best manners myself, but it’s a well known fact that it’s not nice to “yuck on other people’s yums.” Tastes differ, and we should respect that. I’m legitimately horrified when people post photos of mushrooms of any kind, but especially the ones that grow wild. I have an actual phobia of mushrooms. But instead of imposing my tastes on someone else’s social media posts, I simply hide the photo and move on.

In my friend’s defense, they did come back and apologize and delete the comment. I was so irritated, though, that I just deleted the photo. I had already seen the comment, so the damage was done. Yeah, I know I sound oversensitive, but that fish was brilliant. I feel like a true friend would be glad I enjoyed it, instead of leaving rude remarks about what they think it looks like or what they think are my poor choices in lunch dishes.

That lunch left us so full that we skipped dessert, though they did bring us cookies while Bill drank espresso and I had a beer. Afterwards, we went back to our room, where there was a mysterious vase of water waiting. We ignored it, and I laid on the bed and tried to read my latest book. Soon, I was fast asleep, enjoying a very nice nap, lulled by the sound of the rain.

Saturday night’s dinner was a “gala”. We soon found out the reasons for the vase on the coffee table. I was going to dress casually, but when we ventured down to the hotel foyer, I noticed that the Bareiss family was there handing out roses to the ladies, and chocolates to the men. Obviously, this was to be a formal dinner. We went back to the room, and I put on a dress and some jewelry. Then, we sat down at our table, where there was a vase waiting for the pretty pink and white rose and a lit candle. The buffet table was shut down for Saturday night, as we were going to be enjoying a beautiful dinner. Below are some photos:

By the time dinner was over, we were both pretty exhausted, so we went straight back to the room and promptly crashed. But not before I put my rose in the vase that was waiting for it. I brought the rose home, and it’s now on our table to enjoy until it needs to be composted.

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Schwarzwald

Baiersbronn in the Black Forest– Bareiss Style! Part one

Those of you who regularly read my travel blog might remember that in August 2021, when it came time for Bill and me to visit our dentist in Stuttgart, we decided to book a stay at the Hotel Engel Obertal in Baiersbronn. We spent four pleasant nights at that luxury property and mostly really enjoyed ourselves. While we were staying at that hotel, we visited a restaurant owned by the Hotel Bareiss called the Forellenhof Buhlbach. I noticed a number of guests who were enjoying fresh trout there were also staying at Hotel Bareiss. I didn’t know much about the place, other than it’s where one of the two Three Star Michelin restaurants in Baiersbronn is. I also knew that Hotel Bareiss is considered a pretty swanky place to stay.

In August, Bill rescheduled our dental appointments, to accommodate the Hundepension taking care of our dogs, Arran and Noyzi. Since we moved to Wiesbaden and COVID-19 has been less of an issue, we’ve been combining our trips to Stuttgart with “mini breaks”. Last year, we did Baiersbronn, for instance. In the spring, we went to Sessenheim, France, and stayed in a beautiful little boutique hotel with a gourmet restaurant. I was considering staying in another nice place we haven’t yet been, when I remembered the Bareiss Hotel, and how curious I was about it. So I checked their availability for our dates…

Sure enough, they had room in their “Landhaus”, which is where some of the hotel’s suites and apartments are. After talking about it with Bill– especially given the steep price of the room– we decided to book it. And, because of the steep cost, and the contractual obligation to pay soon after we booked, I also bought travel insurance. It made sense, since the original quote– just for five nights in the room, parking in a garage, and half board, was about 3700 euros. That may seem like a lot, and it is. But you get a lot for your money at this hotel. Besides offering a comfortable place to stay, the Bareiss also has daily activities and many facilities, an awesome spa and sauna world, a huge pool complex with several pools, most of which can be used year round, walking trails, a petting zoo, and lots of child friendly attractions. It’s also an extremely dog friendly hotel, although there is a daily 35 euro charge for each dog.

Having just left the hotel this morning, I can say that the high price was mostly worth it. I liked the Bareiss more than Hotel Engel Obertal. The food was exceptional, especially considering that we mostly ate from the board program, rather than a la carte. The staff is mostly excellent, too. I did have a few quibbles about a few things, which I’ll get to as I write the blow by blow account of our trip. But– overall– I can say that we did enjoy ourselves very much.

I just wish we’d had better weather, because there were some outdoor activities I wanted to do while we were visiting. However, not doing those activities meant that we got to enjoy a couple of fabulous mornings in the pool and sauna world. They were not at all crowded, and were on par with some of the best public mineralthermes/spas/quellens we’ve been to. Imagine going to your favorite pool based spa with almost no one there, competing for resources. That’s what it was like for us at the Hotel Bareiss at this time of year, when most children are in school. I think if you’re a couple or a bunch of ladies who want a relatively quiet and less child populated experience at this property, definitely book in late September or October! In the summer, I’m sure it’s a hell of a lot more crowded and expensive! But then, the weather is also sunnier.

I’m going to start from the beginning of our five night stay and give a very detailed account, then do my usual quick and dirty top ten things I learned post, for those who want to skip the details. I hope you’ll come along with me on our latest Black Forest journey!

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Seeing “stars” in Baiersbronn… Part five

We had no plans at all for Saturday. It was rainy and chilly, though, so we figured people would probably be hanging out in the spa area. We decided to take a drive instead. I can’t even tell you exactly where we went. Bill just got on the road, heading north, and we drove through several nice, picturesque towns. At one point, I was enchanted by the sight of rushing water, so we stopped so I could get some pictures. We eventually turned around when we got to the town of Rastatt, which looked to be pretty decent sized.

After a couple of hours of good music and conversation, we headed back toward Obertal. It had started to rain and it was time for lunch. Despite all of the eating we did on Friday, we were hungry. I decided that I really wanted to stop at the Forellenhof Buhlbach, a restaurant owned by Hotel Bareiss.

If you are a food lover, you might know the Bareiss because it is where Baiersbronn’s other Michelin Three Star restaurant is. That restaurant, also known as Bareiss, is led by Clauss-Peter Lumpp, who has been working there for decades. I read about Chef Lumpp in that amazing New York Times Magazine article about Baiersbronn I posted at the beginning of this series. Now that I’m looking at the hotel’s Web site, I’m thinking that maybe if we go back, we should look into staying there!

In any case, we had driven up to the Forellenhof Buhlbach restaurant earlier in the day, so I got a good photo of it before the crowds showed up. It’s only open from 11:30 until 5:30 every day, and it’s a popular place that specializes in serving fresh trout. Reservations are not accepted. When we arrived, the place was pretty full and there was a line to get in. Since we didn’t have anything else to do, we decided to stick around. That was a good decision. Our wait was only about ten minutes and the meal was outstanding. No, it wasn’t fancy gourmet fare, but it was still very good food. I love fresh fish, and it doesn’t get much fresher than what is served at the Forellenhof. We did enjoy trout that was just as fresh when we visited Slovenia in 2016. The place in Slovenia was a bit more rustic, though.

Here are some photos from a fantastic lunch!

One of the other guests at the Forellenhof was a nun. She seemed to be enjoying her lunch with her companion. This restaurant is quite reasonably priced, especially compared to where we ate on Friday. I think we got out of there having spent less than 100 euros. There are other menu choices besides fish, too, although the trout is definitely the star attraction at the Forellenhof.

Since we were pretty full and lunch was later, we decided to hang out in the bar instead of having dinner. The crowd changed a bit. There were many French people there, no doubt wanting to eat some excellent cuisine. I did notice that there weren’t many Americans around, especially in our hotel. In fact, most of the people in our hotel didn’t speak English, which I found rather refreshing. Bill got to practice his German a lot, and I found that I understood more than I realized.

There were a few things that made our trip a little more stressful than it should have been. All of it had to do with my inability to unplug from social media. I was especially nervous after having read about a gang of women in our neighborhood who have been trying to break in to people’s houses. One of Bill’s co-workers even caught someone trying to break into his car a few weeks ago. After reading about the neighborhood creepers, I ended up buying more renter’s insurance. I am a BIG believer in insurance.

We checked out of Hotel Engel Obertal at about 9:00am yesterday. As a parting gift, they gave us water, a small loaf of fresh farmer’s bread, and salt. Our final bill for the bar and restaurant, taxes, and one night of parking in the garage, was about 400 euros. All in all, we spent about 2000 euros on the hotel. I would stay at that hotel again, although if we go back, I’ll probably book somewhere else for the different experience. To anyone who is looking into visiting Baiersbronn, I would recommend the Hotel Engel Obertal. It seemed pretty popular with seniors, although we also saw a number of young families there. It has a nice family vibe.

Our drive back to Wiesbaden wasn’t bad at all, although I did a fair amount of bitching… mainly due to stuff that was completely unrelated to our weekend. Overall, we had a wonderful time, and now I’m thinking our days of staying in downtown Stuttgart when we need to see the dentist may be over forever. I’m all about staying in the Black Forest now, and am even thinking of other towns I’d like to explore next time. A bonus was that when we got home, our house was fine, and the dogs were delighted to see us. Noyzi even jumped into the back of the Volvo all by himself!

I hope anyone who’s been following along enjoyed this look at Baiersbronn. There are plenty of reasons to go back… more “stars” to see, if the opportunity presents itself. Until next time!

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