I had high hopes for this weekend. It’s the first one of May, and the weather has been truly fabulous over the past few days. But yesterday, they were calling for rain, and the temperature dipped.
Then I got hung up making videos and, by the time I was finished, it was a bit late to go anywhere. We do have some more framing that needs to be done, but the shop closes at 2:00 PM, so Bill didn’t think we’d have time. Then, for some reason, I decided I wanted pizza…and I didn’t want the kind you can order locally.
Next thing I knew, I was in the kitchen, making pizza dough. I actually thought about going out and buying an outdoor pizza oven for the task… but then we pulled out the pizza stone and peel. I used to make pizza all the time, but I’d just put it on an ordinary cookie sheet. Now, we have the stone, so I feel compelled to use that. But getting the pizza on the stone without messing it up can be a challenge. I should know, as I messed up the first crust and we had to start over…
The pizza turned out okay… the crust was a bit thicker than I like it, but I forgot my recipe makes two pizzas. I used to make pizza all the time, but I don’t cook so often anymore.
Then we got a big rainstorm that dumped rain all over the place and knocked out the power for about twenty minutes. That was a far cry from my days in Armenia, where the power could be out for weeks. I got a few video clips of that.
I also bought Bill some cheese the other day from Henri Willig, a Dutch company. I don’t eat a lot of cheese myself, but Bill loves it, so I coerced him into having a cheese tasting. I videoed him enjoying the cheese, too… He’s so brave. Below is a video of the storm and the cheese…
How we spent our Saturday in Breckenheim…
Today, I’ve been fixated on making music videos on YouTube. The first one was quick and easy, but the second one was a real pain in the ass to make, and I’m still not sure if I’m satisfied with the end results. But there’s always tomorrow, I guess.
I feel a little guilty for not getting out today or yesterday, but I’m finding that as I get older, I’m not as interested in going out. And besides, it’s chilly and cloudy again, so today was a good day to make music. If you click on the above video, it will take you to my channel, where you can see which music I tackled. I do it because it helps stave off depression and gives me something constructive to focus on besides the state of the world…
I’m hoping to plan a birthday trip soon. I’ll be turning 53 next month. That calls for a short trip, doesn’t it? After that, we’ll be going to Switzerland for about a week, so Bill can take classes at the Jung Institute. That will make the travel blog come back to life.
For now, I think I’ll go eat some of that leftover pizza. It was pretty good, in spite of the too thick crust. Bill also cooked quail eggs for the first time this morning. He said they were tricky to work with. I enjoyed them, just the same.
We arrived in the village of Nistelrode, North Brabant in The Netherlands at some point around lunchtime. Because we didn’t know much about the policies at our next stop, we decided to have lunch at a little restaurant in Nistelrode called De Eeterij (The Eatery). It was pretty novel, because it had its own parking lot with free parking!
We went into the place and had a rather large lunch, coupled with tiny Dutch beers. Seriously, it was interesting to come from Belgium to The Netherlands, where draft beers are served in much smaller glasses. But it’s probably just as well, since I ended up drinking Heineken. I used to like Heineken when I was younger and less of a beer snob. Now, I find it pretty skunky.
I had spare ribs with fabulous frites. Bill had chicken satay, which seemed to be a common offering in The Netherlands. The only thing that would have made my dish better, is if they’d offered ketchup for the fries, instead of mayo. I remember in the early 90s, meeting a Belgian guy who played tuba for the “Boogie Band” at Busch Gardens. He ate mayo with his fries, and everyone thought it was so weird! Of course, over here, a lot of people think eating ketchup is weird. I will admit, it does have a lot of sugar… but if you grew up on it, it’s definitely a comfort!
I was amused by the faucets in the bathrooms. They had installed what looked like Heineken beer taps as faucets! However, the rest of the bathroom looked like it could use refurbishing. A new toilet seat would be a step up, at the very least.
Bill went to pay the check, but his Visa cards didn’t work. It turns out that many businesses in The Netherlands don’t take Visa. They prefer MasterCard. Fortunately, he had enough euros to pay for the meal. The lady who took the money asked him if he was sure when he told her to keep the change (about 2,50). Tipping doesn’t seem to be a big thing in The Netherlands.
After we ate, it was closer to the customary check in time. We decided to head to our next lodging, the magnificent golfing resort called The Duke Suites. I found this wonderful spot on Facebook, of all places. I got an ad for it while I was looking for places for us to stay for our anniversary. Although Bill and I are not interested in golf at all, I was intrigued by how beautiful the place looked. It appeared to be a perfect spot for a short (and expensive) rest.
I sent a booking request weeks ago, and it was promptly answered. I didn’t even have to submit a credit card, although the rate was a princely 550 euros per night– more than the monthly rent on my first US based apartment. But, for that, we got a gorgeous room, butler service, included minibar, and a bathroom a person could live in.
A couple of days before we arrived at The Duke Suites, I got an email asking for final details, such as when we would be arriving. I had also booked us a couples’ massage in their spa, and The Charles Experience, which is a six course tasting menu in their restaurant, offered only from Wednesday to Saturday each week. It was lucky that our anniversary fell on Saturday. The email also had instructions about what to do when we arrived. We pulled up to the covered area by the entrance and were met by Marco, who was our butler for most of our stay.
Bill and I are not fancy people, but we do like to splurge sometimes. We once stayed in another golf property, in Hilton Head, South Carolina, back in February 2012. I remember it distinctly, because it was when Whitney Houston died, and she was all over the news. That property also offered butlers, but I don’t remember them doing anything but checking us in. The room we stayed in was beautiful, but it was very much an American resort in Hilton Head, South Carolina. The experience we had at The Duke Suites was very different… and vastly superior.
Marco offered us coffee, tea, or champagne. We had some champagne, since it was our anniversary, and because I am a lush. He showed us our room, explained almost everything (he forgot to tell us the bed was adjustable), and left us there, mouths agape, as we took in the absolutely beautiful accommodations. Then he offered us more champagne, which we declined, since we would be having a lot of wine at dinner. Below are some photos:
Charming Nistelrode.The road leading to The Duke Estates.The lobby at The Duke Suites.Checking in.A welcome snack with fizz.The bed.I loved the fireplace.The curtains were remote controlled!I loved these chairs. So comfortable, and wide enough for my butt.Our terrace!Bathroom and dressing area.Huge tub. I never got to try it.Minibar. It was included in the room rate and stocked with a bottle of red, white, champagne, and beer…I want one of these wine fridges for my house!SShower
We’ve stayed in some very beautiful hotels, but this one just might be in a class by itself. There were very few people there during our stay, so we pretty much got the place to ourselves. The staff was absolutely wonderful and low key. We never felt awkward or weird, even though we aren’t used to such great service.
After a couple of hours of enjoying the much improved lodging, it was time for dinner. We got showered and changed and called Marco, who escorted us to The Charles Restaurant, which is the club’s “fancy” restaurant in the Clubhouse. The Clubhouse is actually in another building, but The Duke Suites and the Clubhouse are connected by an underground tunnel that make them seem like the same building. If you look at the buildings from the outside, you don’t know that they’re linked, and when you are moving between them, it doesn’t seem like they’re separate. But we later found out that the Clubhouse has been around longer than The Duke Suites. After a couple of days, we realized that a lot of people go there to make business deals. 😉
The Charles Restaurant was a wonderful treat, and to be honest, I don’t know if I can name everything we ate. They did give us cards with the names of the food… You can see it all below. Dinner went on for four hours, but each course was small, so we weren’t stuffed. I think there were three or four other couples there besides us. Fortunately, some of the staff spoke English, so they could describe everything. The only low point of the meal was the foie gras… but I understand that some people love it. Bill opted for a cheese course instead of dessert.
Foie gras!
The price for The Charles Experience with wine was 300 euros for both of us. It was expensive, but not the most expensive meal we’ve ever had. And I’m really glad we got to try it, because they even gave us a little cake for our anniversary, which we enjoyed the next day. There was also a little glass of fruit cocktail waiting for us at our bedsides each night… We were way too full to eat it on Saturday night, but it made a nice prelude before breakfast on Sunday.
Each night, they left us fruit before bed!
To say we were delighted by The Duke Suites’ first impressions is an understatement. It really was wonderful. More on how wonderful it was in the next post!
We woke to steady rain on Saturday morning, which was a real pity. Friday night, when we were at the bar, fueled by fine food and cocktails, Bill and I gave some thought to paying a visit to the Allerheiligen Wasserfalls… yes, I know I misspelled it in German. In English, they are the All Saints Waterfalls. Bill and I discovered them in June 2018, when I read a blog by a Dutchman who had come to Germany to see waterfalls. We were enchanted by the falls, and I wanted to see them again, as the leaves are about to change, and the hotel is only a few miles away. But I didn’t want to see them in the rain.
We were also a bit in need of recovery after Friday night’s wild bar escapade. I think we’re getting to be too old to be carousing in the bar at all hours. Of course, children are allowed in the bar at Hotel Bareiss, which personally, I don’t necessarily agree with. I did see one cute little chap who appeared to be bonding with his dad, only to have his fun interrupted by a woman who showed up later. She went into the Smoker’s Lounge for a few minutes before coming back for a Whiskey Sour.
Because it was raining, I figured there would be a bunch of people at the pool, too. I wasn’t in the mood for that, so we decided to give housekeeping a chance to fix up the room while we checked out the library. When we got to the library, it was also full of people. So we went to the lobby, which was probably a better decision, as I got to ogle all of the dogs who were staying at Hotel Bareiss. There were some really sweet ones there, all of whom behaved impeccably. This hotel is the only one I know of that actually has a dog shower, where people can wash their pooches if they get dirty on a walk.
Dog shower!
The “dog shower”.
We also decided to have lunch at the Dorfstuben, which is a traditional restaurant in the hotel that serves hearty Swabian delights. They play accordion music while you sit in a quaint little stube with farmer painted furniture, enjoy local wines and beers, and eat food that will stick to your ribs. There was a lady in there– she appeared to be holding court– who seemed to know everyone! People were stopping at her table, hugging and kissing her. We later saw her in the bar, and she was getting the same familiar treatment there. I don’t know if she’s a member of the Bareiss family, or just someone who comes to the hotel a lot. Maybe she’s a local celebrity! She did seem like a very nice lady, though, and obviously has a lot of friends. Bill called her the “Grand Dame”.
Below are some photos from our delightful lunch at the Dorfstuben:
He’s not a lumberjack, but he’s okay.Cute interior.Farmer’s bread, radishes,quark and chive spread, and Schmalz.Delicious FRESH trout locally sourced.Bill had beef rouladen.Cookies…And an espresso for Bill… I had a beer.
I know I have some Facebook friends who read these blog posts. I want to make mention of an incident that occurred the other day that really perturbed me. As you can see in the above gallery of photos, I had trout for lunch. It was fried, and served with tomatoes, lemon slices, and almonds, as well as oil. Fresh trout in the Schwarzwald is a real treat, if you like fish. Hotel Bareiss does it very well. They even have a restaurant that is dedicated to serving trout dishes. The restaurant, which is off site, is called the Forellenhof Buhlbach. We visited there last year, so we didn’t go this year.
I shared photos of this lunch with friends. A couple of people commented on the fact that the trout was served whole. I think Americans are grossed out by being served whole fish. I know it was hard for me to get used to when I lived in Armenia. I would buy whole fish from Lake Sevan, that might or might not be cleaned beforehand. I always cut off the head and tail before cooking it, because I don’t eat the head. Some people do eat it, though, and this is how the fish is served over here. Anyway, I got a couple of pretty rude comments about my lunch, which was absolutely delicious, by the way. A couple of people remarked that they don’t want to be “looked at” by what they’re eating. Understandable, although it might be even more jarring to realize that when you cut off the head, you’re decapitating the poor fish!
The worst comment, though, came from someone who said it looked like someone had vomited on the plate. Seriously? Even if that was true, it’s not an appropriate thing to say about someone’s lunch. Especially if they obviously enjoyed it, which I did, and you consider yourself a friend of theirs. That fish was cooked perfectly. When I reacted with an “angry” orange emoticon, and the comment, “That is not nice.” The person came back with an even worse comment.
So I felt compelled to post a request to everyone who was offended by the sight of a cooked, whole fish prepared „meunière“ style to either keep scrolling, or X out the photo without comment. It’s sad that I should have felt the need to do that, since one would hope that would be simple manners learned in childhood. I don’t have the best manners myself, but it’s a well known fact that it’s not nice to “yuck on other people’s yums.” Tastes differ, and we should respect that. I’m legitimately horrified when people post photos of mushrooms of any kind, but especially the ones that grow wild. I have an actual phobia of mushrooms. But instead of imposing my tastes on someone else’s social media posts, I simply hide the photo and move on.
In my friend’s defense, they did come back and apologize and delete the comment. I was so irritated, though, that I just deleted the photo. I had already seen the comment, so the damage was done. Yeah, I know I sound oversensitive, but that fish was brilliant. I feel like a true friend would be glad I enjoyed it, instead of leaving rude remarks about what they think it looks like or what they think are my poor choices in lunch dishes.
That lunch left us so full that we skipped dessert, though they did bring us cookies while Bill drank espresso and I had a beer. Afterwards, we went back to our room, where there was a mysterious vase of water waiting. We ignored it, and I laid on the bed and tried to read my latest book. Soon, I was fast asleep, enjoying a very nice nap, lulled by the sound of the rain.
Saturday night’s dinner was a “gala”. We soon found out the reasons for the vase on the coffee table. I was going to dress casually, but when we ventured down to the hotel foyer, I noticed that the Bareiss family was there handing out roses to the ladies, and chocolates to the men. Obviously, this was to be a formal dinner. We went back to the room, and I put on a dress and some jewelry. Then, we sat down at our table, where there was a vase waiting for the pretty pink and white rose and a lit candle. The buffet table was shut down for Saturday night, as we were going to be enjoying a beautiful dinner. Below are some photos:
Delicious halbut…Essence of guinea fowl…Tiger shrimp.Deer for me… Veal and mushrooms for Bill.More cheese, this time selected by the chefs.And a delightful chocolate dessert for both of us, with more cookies!
By the time dinner was over, we were both pretty exhausted, so we went straight back to the room and promptly crashed. But not before I put my rose in the vase that was waiting for it. I brought the rose home, and it’s now on our table to enjoy until it needs to be composted.
Travel insurance is important for expensive trips!
It’s a good thing that I bought travel insurance for our trip. In the weeks leading up to it, we learned that our older dog, Arran, has lymphoma. We had another dog named Zane who also had lymphoma, and sadly he died just one week after he was diagnosed. In Zane’s case, the cancer appeared while we were vacationing in Scotland back in August 2019, and we had no idea that he was sick. A week after we got home, I felt swollen lymph nodes under his jaw, and a week after that, he was gone.
So naturally, I was worried about how Arran would do while we were visiting the Bareiss Hotel. We didn’t find out about his lymphoma until canceling would have required us to pay 80% of the cost of the reservation. Then, we would have been fighting the insurance company. Nevertheless, the thought of canceling did occur to us.
We ultimately decided not to cancel, because Arran is overall healthier than Zane was when he got sick. We also took him to the vet last week, and she said she thought he would be okay during our time away. We had a fine needle aspirate done to see what kind of lymphoma Arran has; it doesn’t appear to be as aggressive as Zane’s was. We also knew that since we’d just be in the Schwarzwald, it wouldn’t be a problem to come back and deal with Arran if the need arose. We didn’t get any calls from the Hundepension while we were gone, so we assume he did alright. He has an appointment to see the vet on Wednesday, at which point we’ll determine what can be done to make the rest of his time the most comfortable.
I’m bringing up travel insurance for another reason. A friend of mine from back home in Virginia was fretting the other day because she had booked a cruise, and the area from which the sailing was occurring was affected by Hurricane Ian. She did not buy travel insurance. Fortunately, it didn’t turn out to be necessary; the cruise was delayed, rather than canceled. But she was lamenting about not being “smart enough” to get insurance. I don’t always insure my trips, but I will for expensive hotels that I can’t cancel, and for things like cruises. This trip, costing well into the four figures, was expensive for us. So I sprang for the insurance with “cancel for any reason” coverage, just for the peace of mind. I really recommend it, even though it adds an additional cost to the trip. We usually buy our insurance through USAA, but you can purchase it through many outlets. Be sure to read the reviews before taking the leap! Not all travel insurers are created equally. In fact, given how much service at USAA has been slipping lately, maybe it’s time I re-evaluated getting insured through them. 😉 (as of 2024, we do have to buy travel insurance elsewhere, since Travel Insured doesn’t offer coverage to us in Germany anymore.)
Edited to add: I am pleased to report that Arran made it through his time at the Hundepension with no issues. He’s home, and delighted to be back with his favorite person, Bill!
Now… on to happier matters!
We decided to start our trip on Wednesday, because our dental visit was scheduled for Thursday afternoon. Downtown Stuttgart is about a 90 minute drive from Baiersbronn, and we didn’t want to be in a situation in which we were arriving late. In retrospect, it would have been okay to arrive on Thursday. I just thought it would be better to be checked in and settled before the dentist visit, especially since we had never been to the Bareiss before and didn’t know how things worked there. Besides, we love luxury hotels, so an extra night is never a hardship.
On the way to the Schwarzwald, we stopped at the Hundepension with Arran and Noyzi. Noyzi was absolutely delighted to be there. He loves the young lady who takes care of him– and young women in general. He also loves to play with other dogs. I expected Arran to be sulky, but he was actually pretty chill. Noyzi practically dragged me to the gate, while Arran moseyed along quietly, touching noses with a few dogs who greeted us on the way in. When we got to the gate, Noyzi literally pounded on it with his paw! He was so excited to see Natasha, the caretaker.
We explained about Arran to Natasha and I asked her to contact us if she had any problems with Arran, since we were only going to be a couple of hours away. Natasha didn’t contact us, so I’m guessing Arran was a slower, finickier version of himself. Bill will go get them in a little while.
Once the dogs were dropped off, we got on the road, stopping at a Rasthof for a bathroom break. Awhile later, we both needed another potty break. Unfortunately, at the second time we needed a break, there weren’t any full service facilities available. Bill decided to pull off at one of the “free” WCs on the side of the Autobahn. Those things are a mixed bag. Sometimes, they’re relatively clean and well maintained. Sometimes, they are something out of a horror show. The one we encountered on the way to Hotel Bareiss was closer to the horror show. The floors were a bit flooded, and there was toilet paper strewn everywhere. I have seen some truly gross facilities in my time, having lived for over two years in Armenia, where the public toilets were so nasty that one was happy to find a squat hole, rather than a commode. We should have moved on from that toilet, but I decided to hold my nose and go. It was not a good decision, as the gross water on the floor got on my pants.
Bill did come away from the experience with a funny story, though. A lot of the men were just going behind the facility and peeing in the woods. I should have done that myself, actually. But one elderly German man braved the toilet with Bill, and complained to him in German. He said something along the lines of, “So, this is Germany. We were in the Netherlands for four days last week. Everything there was right. Look at the state of things here in Germany. Shameful!”
I was pretty grossed out by that bathroom experience, and especially by the souvenir left on my pants. I actually considered changing pants before we got the hotel, I was so offended. But we pressed on, and arrived at the Hotel Bareiss in the early afternoon. We pulled up the grand structure with the electric gate, that didn’t open for us at first. But then we arrived at the front of the hotel, and a very kind and friendly man in a green blazer welcomed us. We walked into the lobby for the first time, noticing that the doors opened electronically just about everywhere on the grounds.
First impression!
A young man at reception eagerly welcomed us, easily finding our booking. He spoke English, but had some sort of severe speech impediment. I don’t know exactly what it was– maybe stuttering of some sort, or perhaps dysprosody? He was very professional, and I was amazed by his ability to explain things to us in English, in spite of his obvious problems speaking with fluency. We tried to put him at ease to make it easier for him to speak clearly. The only issue was that he had a trainee with him who appeared somewhat amused by his colleague’s difficulties speaking to us. I suppose that’s a human reaction, but it was kind of uncomfortable to witness.
You put your car keys in the “mailbox” so it’s easy to summon your vehicle.Next to the door at the Landhaus.
The young man showed us the little “mailboxes” in the lobby, where we could store our car key fob for easy access when we wanted the car brought to us. Then he took us to our room. I booked the Double Room Rotunda Landhaus II. This room– LH 35– had a huge balcony with a nice view and was outfitted with quaint floral accents. There was a large heart on our door that read “Herzlich Willkommen!” I noticed the heart sign was on the doors of all newly arriving guests. The bathroom had a huge bathtub in it, that I never got around to trying. It had his and her sinks, a bidet, and lots of gold fixtures. There was lots of closet space and a minibar, as well as an adjustable bed, couch, and a flat screen television with German channels. Below are some photos of the room:
Seating in the room.You could kill someone with that key ring!
Because it was still early in the day, and we hadn’t had lunch, we decided to see what we could find to eat. It was about 1:30pm, so they were serving lunch in the dining room where we had most of our meals. Lunch is not included in the price of the room, but breakfast and dinner are. That was different from the Hotel Engel Obertal. There, breakfast and lunch are included, but dinner isn’t.
Bareiss has several a la carte restaurants, including the Kaminstube, which we didn’t try, the Dorfstube, and the Forellenhof, which we tried last year. The hotel also has a Three Star Michelin Star restaurant called Restaurant Bareiss. Of course, to eat in the fanciest restaurant, one must reserve well in advance. Maybe we’ll try Restaurant Bareiss if we manage to stay at the hotel again. I would love to do that, since I really enjoyed our a la carte lunches. The meals we got from the board option were all excellent, but I was very impressed by the a la carte dishes that we paid for separately. I definitely think there’s an even higher standard with those menus. Below are some photos from lunch, which we purposely kept small, because I knew dinner was liable to be a big production.
The “amuse” from the kitchen.I started with scallops and pickled radishes with peas.Bill’s pork bellies with miso “marshamallows” were so good! We both ordered soup, but switched because the chicken soup had morels in them. I ended up with Bill’s creamy concoction garnished with a quail egg.Dessert! Lemon vodka…And a sinful chocolate and strawberry yogurt log. This was so good.A view of the hotel.
After lunch, we took our first walk through the “Waldpark”, which includes a short barefoot trail and a petting zoo. We met the hotel’s delightful goats and ponies, as well as some of the rabbits kept on site. Bareiss also has pet deer on the premises, but we never got around to visiting them. I was too enchanted by one special goat, who proved to be very friendly and willingly posed for several photos. I wanted to get a pet goat after meeting the ones at Hotel Bareiss!
Love this goat!Pretty Arabian.Aren’t they cute?View of Baiersbronn.I enjoyed the ponies, too.For kids!
For dinner, the hotel management requests that guests dress in smart casual attire. I didn’t see this rule being enforced, much to the chagrin of one European TripAdvisor reviewer. I did bring a couple of dresses, which proved to be useful, especially on Saturday night. Most nights, I wore pants and a sweater, while Bill dressed like he was going to work. Some people wore jeans, though, and weren’t turned away at the door. The staff all wore traditional German attire. I was impressed by the beautiful dirndls and dresses the women wore. I don’t generally like uniforms, but I thought the ones at Bareiss were very nice looking.
As for dinner itself– it’s extensive. Each night, there’s a theme. Most meals begin with a trip to the humongous salad bar/buffet, where there are many different dishes available, according to the theme. The array of choices is incredible. I counted over 35 different cheeses offered. I don’t eat much cheese myself– at least not the fancy ones that Bill likes. I do enjoy watching him enjoy them, and he sure went to town.
Then, you choose courses from the menu– starters, soups, fish dishes and red meats, cheeses, and desserts. If nothing on the themed menu impresses, you can order steak, or other cold dishes that are always available. Beverages are not included in the price of dinner, but they are included at breakfast. Each night, we enjoyed a different bottle of locally produced German wine from the hotel’s vast cellar. And, in case anyone is wondering, yes, they have wines from other places, too.
Below are some photos from our first dinner, which had an Asian theme. I wasn’t very hungry, due to the lunch we enjoyed late in the afternoon, so I only had fish and dessert… and wine, of course. The family that owns the hotel gifted us with a complimentary glass of Sekt. Dinner is served from 6:30pm, and the staff requests that people come between 6:30 and 8:30pm, although it’s possible to come later– until 10:00pm. Our waitress the first two nights was the same lady who looked after us at lunch. She was very friendly and professional.
Bill had a bigger appetite and tried more than I did the first night.Fish and risotto for me.Bill loved the cheese.The tall one is an Italian blue that Bill loved most of all.My kind of cheese… cheesecake.Handmade chocolates on the buffet.We had many cocktails. Brandy Alexander…Gin and basil smash…Gin martini…And a little pilsner.
I’d say our arrival was a success! Stay tuned for part three.
On Sunday, we decided to visit Maastricht. I really didn’t know what to expect, since I had never been to the city before. I did know that there aren’t any “coffee shops” open to foreigners in Maastricht. It’s one of the areas in the Netherlands that has chosen to restrict pot sales to people who aren’t locals. If you want marijuana, you have to go west.
It was no big deal, though. Maastricht proved to be entertaining without the benefit of pot. Not only is the city beautiful, it’s also wide open on Sundays. Yes, you can go shopping, have lunch, or simply people watch. There was some kind of race going on there Sunday, so there were several brass bands playing along the route, along with a drum band and a group of violinists. As a music lover, this really appealed to me. Despite the bitter cold, I stood there and listened to a group of musicians play “Canon in D” and Vivaldi. I’m not ashamed to admit that their version of Pachelbel’s masterpiece had me openly weeping.
We parked in a huge lot on the outskirts of town and walked in…
Right off the bat, we heard the thundering sound of drums. An awesome drum band was beating an infectious rhythm and had attracted a crowd. The music would be a theme in Maastricht on Sunday, as we ran into a number of bands playing in the street.
What’s that sound?
You can also load up on cheese! I wish I liked cheese more.
We rounded the corner, just out of earshot of the drummers and promptly encountered a quartet of string musicians.
I often get choked up when I hear really well played live music. I was listening to these people with tears streaming down my cheeks. They played so well out in the cold and their music went straight to my heart.
As you can see, other people were affected by the music, too.
We reluctantly moved on, because it was so cold and Bill needed to get some cash. I managed to get a few more pictures as we searched for an ATM. We were looking for lunch and a place to pee.
Our route took us past the runners and several more excellent brass bands!
We walked through one area near a mall and several very touristy looking restaurants. One alley smelled distinctly of cheeseburgers, which was kind of strange. But then I noticed we were near a McDonalds.
And these guys were playing jazz… I loved that they had a tray of empty beer glasses nearby.
Just as we encountered our fifth musical ensemble of the day, I turned to the left and we found a place to have lunch…
I have a knack for finding good places to eat. There are a few things I look for. Mainly, I like places that aren’t either too crowded or too empty. I prefer them to be off the main drags. And it doesn’t hurt if it smells good outside of the restaurant, too. A lot of people were sitting outside, despite the cold weather. I didn’t want to sit outside, but Bill was about to bust. So we walked inside De Twee Heeren, which turned out to be a pretty awesome bar/restaurant. They were playing good music and had menus in English, as well as places to sit. We ended up spending a couple of hours in there, enjoying lunch, good Dutch and Belgian beers, and fun music.
Obligatory menu shot of Bill. They had a number of appealing choices, everything from steaks to falafel.
Bill had what amounted to a “sauerbraten stew”. It came with a big basket of frites and a salad.
I had fish and chips. I considered a few of the other choices and actually had some trouble deciding, but since the Netherlands is a sea faring nation, I figured the fish and chips would be good. And they were! I even tried the fries with mayonnaise. That’s how they eat them… Not bad at all, though a little bit of mayo goes a long way.
Bill had a double espresso while I enjoyed an excellent Belgian brew suggested by the waiter.
And one more for the road. It’s probably a good thing German beers aren’t this interesting.
It was late afternoon by the time we were finished at De Twee Heeren, so we decided to get some cheese for Bill and head back to the dogs. I might have liked to have tried another restaurant later, but I just can’t eat as much as I once did. You’d never know it to look at me, though.
This place had lots of free samples, which Bill was happy to try.
Here he’s trying the gouda with garlic. I think he brought some home. I found us some beers and waffle cookies, too. If it turns out he loves the cheese, we can order more.
We headed out of the city and I took a few more photos.
The grand looking building houses the visitor’s center, which sadly, does not have a public toilet. Fortunately, I found one at a bustling looking hostel with a huge bar. It was nothing to duck in, which was a huge relief.
So long, Maastricht. We’ll be back!
I missed the lunar eclipse, but did manage to get a picture of the huge full moon.
Yesterday morning, we got up bright and early, had breakfast, let the dogs have one more romp with Yogi, and loaded up the car for the drive back to Germany. Nel was the most awesome hostess and invited us back. I think she said we were her first real American guests, although she has hosted Canadians. I’m hoping a few of my American readers living in Germany might visit Vijlen. I have a feeling we’ll go back, especially if we stay in Germany for much longer.
I love visiting small towns and talking to locals, getting a feel for the real culture. While we always enjoy visiting big cities, I find that it’s harder to get a feel for the culture, mainly because so many other international visitors are also there. So, if there’s anything to be learned by this trip, it’s that small towns are worth a look. They tend to be less expensive, safer, and the locals are more likely to make a connection. I felt like we’d made a friend when we left Nel’s place yesterday. I hope this series will inspire a few others to visit her in lovely Vijlen!
After Thursday’s experience with entrails, Bill and I decided to be cautious on Friday. We spent a languid afternoon hanging out with the animals and taking in the views. I finished a book I’d been reading (and just reviewed on my main blog). When it got to be lunchtime, we decided to try a local restaurant I’d read about on Trip Advisor.
The outside of the restaurant. It’s very unassuming looking, but the food is outstanding.
L’Etape Charollaise is not even a five minute drive from where we were staying. It’s a small, family owned restaurant that puts out great food at reasonable prices. But we were still a little gun shy after Bill’s chitterling experience, so we approached the restaurant with caution. Our waitress did not speak English, but was good enough to speak French slowly. Bill went with the menu du jour, which was 13 euros and came with a Lyonnaise salad, a main course, cheese, and a dessert. I went with the savory menu, which was 18 euros without cheese and, I think, 23 euros with it. I don’t eat cold cheese, so I went with the sans fromage option.
We were a little sketchy on what Bill’s main course would consist of, as we didn’t have it written down for us (a sign was posted on the door). My menu offered a choice of beef or fish. I went with the fish, which was a good choice.
Bill checks out the menu.
While we were eating, a bunch of local folks came in. There was a couple who looked like they knew the restaurant well. They sat in the corner near us. A couple of guys, obviously working class blokes, sat at the table next to us and shared a nice bottle of wine. A couple of elderly men who appeared to be regulars were scattered around. All was going normally until the couple heard us speaking English. The male half turned and stared at us quizzically. It was as if they wondered what the hell we were doing in rural France! Again, it was probably not unlike the reaction people in my hometown would have if French people suddenly dropped in to have dinner at one of the local eateries.
Anyway, out came the food and it was all very good…
We enjoyed a bottle of vino and some still water, which the restaurant provided freely and without our having to ask for it.
I’m not totally sure what this was. It was my amuse and it tasted like sun dried tomatoes with olives and bacon on top of some type of cream. I am a little weird about creamy stuff, but I did taste it and it was interesting. Bill liked it better than I did.
On the other hand, I loved Bill’s Lyonnaise salad, which was greens, a perfectly poached egg, bacon, and croutons. That’s my kind of salad. Breakfast in a bowl!
I had a lovely filet of sole on top of pureed lentils and vegetables. I was delighted by how colorful this dish was and that, for once, it was pretty healthy.
And this was Bill’s mystery dish…
WTF is Bill eating? It’s rice, mushrooms, and some kind of meat…
Followed up with some very good local cheeses. I love watching Bill eat cheese, even if I never eat it myself.
The expression on his face is why I like watching him. He does the same when he drinks a very good wine or interesting beer.
Next came dessert. Bill’s was basically meringue in creme anglaise and topped with caramel. It was not too big and he liked it a lot for that reason.
My dessert was excellent! It was a poached pear on a cookie with little mounds of chocolate mousse, a scoop of pear sorbet, and an almond cookie. It was a great cap to a fine meal.
Bill eats his cheese course and tries to figure out what each of the cheeses were. He says, “This one might be Epoisses.” Epoisses is a locally produced cheese we discovered on our last trip to Burgundy. He later did some checking and identified the cheeses. When I see him later, I’ll get him to tell me what he thinks they were so I can update.
We got all of this fine food for about fifty euros. And, on the way out of the restaurant, I took note of the sign that listed the plate of the day. Bill was eating “dinge”. Looking up the word, I see that dinge in French is turkey. The more you know! If we go back to Saint Marcelin-de-Cray, we will for sure try to visit L’Etape Charollaise again.
Ah… Sunday… It’s usually our rest day. And it kind of did end up being our rest day, but not before we took two more lengthy walks into Semur En Auxois. After breakfast, we got up and took another walk into town, this time going the more direct but less scenic route, using the roads. We had read that there would be a market in the main square and that was what we were aiming for. The clouds were out, though, and it was chilly. When we got to the main square, there were a few vendors out with their produce. I also noticed a well dressed couple standing off to the side. Upon closer inspection, I saw that they were Jehovah’s Witnesses.
Adding to the excitement was the sound of a loudspeaker. It reminded me of being in Turkey and hearing calls to prayer. At first, Bill wondered if we were hearing some kind of sermon. But no, it turned out there was a race going on. The city had blocked off a route for the runners who were in the several races held on Sunday. I swear, the guy announcing on the loudspeaker went non stop for hours.
I thought maybe we’d pick up some produce, but Bill wasn’t feeling it. So we kept walking through the town and I got more photos.
Beautiful produce, but the market was pretty small. We kept walking.
The town is just as pretty when it’s cloudy.
We walked down toward the Pont Pinard again.
Zane was fascinated by the water and the many fishing poles left out…
Some horses grazing across the river. I was happy the boys didn’t notice them.
I saw this old car several times. I also saw several more like it.
Semur En Auxois is home to ramparts and towers dating from the 7th century… They are very impressive to see.
I grabbed a shot of some kids running in the race that was going on all day Sunday.
Another photo of the charming square.
Pont Pinard on a cloudy day…
Zane liked walking along the river.
After our first walk, we went back to the Tower and Bill went to the store to load up on wine to bring back to Stuttgart. Supermarkets in Semur En Auxois are open until noon on Sunday, so Bill took advantage. He said at one point, a local woman was staring at him as he loaded up. He thought maybe she disapproved of all the wine he was buying, but my guess is that she had him pegged as an outsider. One thing I loved about this little town was that despite being very attractive, quirky, and French, it’s also quite unspoiled. We didn’t hear any other Americans among us, though Louise the proprietor at the Hexagonal Tower said that she’d had guests from American bases in Germany at another property she and her husband owned. I’m not sure if she’s had other Americans in her tower yet.
I read in Trip Advisor that this restaurant is very dog friendly. It smelled good and I really wanted to try it. But unfortunately, our pooches were too wound up on Sunday.
Destined to be a Facebook cover photo soon.
A stairway to heaven? Or perhaps just to the town…
A picture of the viaduct we crossed on Saturday.
At about noon, we decided we wanted to take a walk back into town and attempt lunch. We brought the dogs, who had been making some progress at restaurants over the summer. Alas, as we approached one place, a dog off lead approached Zane. He did fine with her. They sniffed each other’s butts and I thought we were in the clear. But then Arran, our more temperamental dog, got all upset and started bugling. That caused Zane to start barking. Then the dog off the lead started barking like mad. A bunch of French folks sitting in a nearby cafe all started laughing at us. We walked back through the main square in search of a place for lunch, but my mood was a bit spoiled. We did pass a musician who caught my attention by playing guitar, harmonica, and singing at the same time. We probably should have bought a CD.
When we walked back through the square, the same dog who had been somewhat chill when she met Zane came back over and bared her teeth. Arran went apeshit. Zane also talked back, but Zane’s tone was more of a “Buzz off, bitch!” than Arran’s “I’m going to tear you apart!” Actually, I doubt Arran would have hurt her. He’s mostly all bark. Mostly, I say…
By the time we got back to the tower, I was really tired. I wanted to use the Internet, too. So I went up to the bedroom and got online. A few minutes later, I crashed… HARD. I slept for a solid two hours.
When I woke up, it was time for copious wine. We enjoyed local vino and watched France’s version of Supernanny, which turned out to be surprisingly interesting despite the fact that we don’t speak French at all. Bill also bought some local cheese called Epoisses. He says it’s fantastic– rich and creamy. I think it smells like feet. Since I’m really not a cheese person, I’ll take his word for it.
If you like stinky French cheese, Semur En Auxois is the place for you. As for me, pass the wine.
I’ll wrap up this series tomorrow. Now, it’s time for some shut eye in my nice big bed.
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