Bavaria, short breaks

Rothenburg ob der Tauber: Part five– Sadistic punishments and one last dinner!

We were finished with lunch at the Louvre Japanese Restaurant just around the time the Criminal Museum opened for the afternoon.  During the low season, it’s only open for a few hours in the afternoon.  However, if you have any interest in crime and punishment, especially during the medieval era, I would highly recommend visiting the Criminal Museum.  It’s very large and extensive.  We spent over an hour in there and we didn’t read everything.  If you take your time and read all there is, you can easily spend a couple of hours looking at exhibits and learning about the ways people of a bygone era dealt with those who committed offenses.

Below are some pictures I took of some of the more interesting exhibits.  Suffice to say, you had to stay on a straight and narrow path to avoid being publicly humiliated, tortured, or executed.

The outside of the museum.  It’s connected to a church and we heard the organ playing as we passed it before the museum opened.

Pillories, where many people were forced to endure public shaming.
“Paddy wagons” with bars on them.
This is a spiked chair– obviously a torture device for people who needed correction.

Throughout the museum, there were cool little exhibits that reminded me of dollhouses.  They showed how people were punished.  Another showed how kids in school were disciplined.

The two above pictures were taken in the very extensive exhibit about the original Martin Luther and the many witch hunts that took place in medieval times.

An executioner’s cloak.

A drunk tank.  Men who drank too much were forced to wear this barrel, sometimes weighted down for extra punishment.

One of many masks worn by people who needed to be shamed.  This one was an especially nasty one.

The above photos depict an exhibit showing how children in school were punished.

 

An iron maiden.

As a musician, I got a kick out of this device, meant to shame bad musicians.

Admission to the museum is 7,50 euros per adult.  I thought it was well worth the price because it’s so extensive and everything is translated into several languages.  It looked like a number of young kids were also enjoying the exhibits.  We ran into one couple who were telling their sons about the double “violins” people wore that basically yoked two people together who couldn’t get along.  They were forced to wear the device until they stopped fighting.

Another exhibit explained how couples who fought could be shamed.  If a man let his wife beat him, the roof of his house could be torn off.  He and his wife would be publicly punished and they were forced to give their neighbors a tankard of wine.  Premarital sex was also a no no and violators were publicly shamed.  They weren’t allowed to marry in a church.  Instead, they had to marry in an inn.  Later, the husband would go to jail while the wife spent some time in a pillory.

After the Criminal Museum, we went back to Anno 1499 and enjoyed a little CNN and a brief rest.  Bill got some love from our dogs, who were enjoying getting to vacation with us.

Zane isn’t much of a kisser, but when he does kiss you, he does it on the nose.

We decided to have dinner in town, even though I was kind of full from lunch.  Originally, we were going to try an Italian place we saw on Saturday.  I kind of wish we’d done that, since it was rated #1 on Trip Advisor.  Instead, we went to a German restaurant at Hotel Reichskuechenmeister, a place about a block from the Marktplatz.  On the way there, I took more pictures…

More Schneeballen and other baked goodies.

This time of year is nice, if only because it’s dead on a Sunday night and I can get some good night pictures.

Stop right here!  Your dream job (at a bank) awaits!

We decided to eat at the Hotel Reichskuechenmeister because it smelled good.  When we walked inside, I could see the place was pretty full, which is always a good sign.  A waiter opened a small dining room on the side for us.  Although I was tempted by a pasta dish with scallops and shrimps, I decided to have fried carp.  Bill went with goulash made with venison.

Substantial salad I shared with Bill.  It came with my fish.

Bill listens intently as I flap my gums at him.  He’s a good sport.  I had to use the ladies room, which involved taking the elevator to where the guest rooms are.  I guess their public restrooms are being renovated or something because they had what looked like a tiny single hotel room set up as a WC.  They placed a Schrank so that you couldn’t access the room, but I could see it was very small and had a traditional Bavarian twin sized bed in it.

I enjoyed the presentation of my fried carp.  It was position to look like it was jumping out of water.  It tasted good, too… very fresh.  However, there were a lot of bones.

Bill liked his hearty goulash, which included cranberry sauce and spatzle, as well as the dreaded mushrooms I hate.  He had a dark beer with his dinner while I had a glass of locally produced Sylvaner, a crisp white Riesling.

Outside by the front door…  I think we spent about fifty euros on dinner.  It was a pleasant experience.  Next time, we will have to visit the Italian place where we were originally headed.

And a few more window displays…

My last post in this series will be my traditional “what I learned” post…  Stay tuned!

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German lifestyle

The glory of German doughnuts and wine…

The bakery at our local Real had hot Berliners and Quarkinis today…

 

This morning, I had ambitious plans to find a new restaurant.  I’ve been cooped up all week and thought I’d enjoy a nice lunch out somewhere.  But then I looked outside, noticed the depressing weather, and decided today would be better spent in my nightie drinking wine.  Bill did manage to talk me into going to the Real for a few necessary items.  I tagged along while he dumped many bottles and traded in our plastic water bottles.  My nose caught a whiff of something divine.  The Sehne bakery at the Real was selling hot Berliners (Pfannkuchen) and Quarkinis.  Plenty of people queued up to get theirs.

The Real was a bit of a madhouse today.  Bill could tell I didn’t want to linger.  They older I get, the less patience I have for crowds.  So we hastily picked up what we needed and headed for the checkout.  After we finished our shopping, I thought maybe the smell might entice Bill, but he walked right past the doughnuts.  To make matters worse, while we were crossing the parking lot in the rain, the local chicken man’s stand was putting out tantalizing aromas of fresh rotisserie chicken.  We didn’t get any chicken, either.

Having loaded up the car, Bill took a look at my face and asked what I wanted.  I told him I wanted a Berliner.  What can I say?  When it comes to fresh pastries, I’m weak.  He resolved to stop at the Sehne on the way home.  We picked up a couple of Berliners and a few Quarkinis (which I had not tried before today).  We also got a piece of cherry dream cake for the next time I get a sweet craving.

Although I’d never be able to say German doughnuts are “healthy”, I will say that they are not as sweet as what we’re used to in the States.  The Quarkini, for example, is basically a fried dough ball made with quark cheese in the batter.  But only the sugar it’s dipped in is sweet; the dough itself is not very sweet at all.  Ditto for the Berliner, which today was filled with plum jam.  Quark cheese is another food I’ve discovered since we’ve experienced Germany.  I don’t generally like cheese that much, but I will admit quark is nice and mild, which is the way I like my cheeses when I do indulge.

Today’s treats!  Unfortunately, these were not hot when we bought them, but they were very fresh.

As you can see, the inside of the Quarkini is not filled, but the quark cheese is in the batter itself.  That was my first Quarkini and it was a hit!  Just what I need… another treat to crave.

 

While we were shopping, I noticed several interesting German wines.  I ended up picking up half a dozen new bottles, most of which were dirt cheap.  German wines are a relatively new discovery for me.  I have to admit that the last time we lived here, we hardly ever indulged in the local wines.  That was a mistake.  The Stuttgart area is German wine country and there are some great grapes here.  The trick is knowing what to look for and having an open mind as well as open tastebuds.

Today, I discovered Schwarzriesling, something I never would have tried during our first German tour.

 

Last time we lived here, we were overly focused on German beer.  While German beer is excellent, it mostly tastes the same, varying only by style rather than brewery.  The wines, on the other hand, are more individually styled.  And while we did have a few German wines we didn’t care for last time we were here, we have found quite a few this time that we love.  For instance, we have become very fond of the Lemberger grape, which is a local favorite.  We’ve gotten into Rieslings, too.  I used to think they were too sweet, but I’ve found that German Rieslings typically aren’t as cloying as ones I’ve had from California.

Today, we even found a new grape to love.  The wine pictured above is a Lauffener Schwarzriesling (12% ABV) and I am trying it today for the first time.  It’s very fruity, but not very sweet.  I love the taste of strawberries and cherries in this wine, but it also reminds me a little of cranberries.  It went beautifully with my German doughnuts, and I bet it would also make a great accompaniment to Thanksgiving turkey.  This wine is from Lauffen am Neckar, which is a town near Heilbronn here in Baden-Württemberg.

I was admittedly a little hesitant to get the Schwarzriesling because I don’t really like sweet wines, but at about 4 euros a bottle, I figured we could take the risk.  As it turns out, this is not a sweet wine. We also found another Schwarzriesling that is labeled as dry (trocken).  I’ll be interested to see how that one tastes.  At the rate I’m going today, I’ll probably try it in a couple of hours.  I don’t see myself going out in the weather today, especially since we’re going on vacation Friday.

Anyway… this little treat brightened my day considerably.  May your day be similarly blessed with something yummy.

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