Baden-Württemberg, Schwarzwald, Sundays

From Wiesbaden to Horben: Walking among clouds and waterfalls…

The weather on Sunday morning was not quite as picture perfect as it had been on Saturday. The sun was out, but it was pretty hazy. My German friend, Susanne, said it was because of Saharan dust, which has to do with the warmer than usual temperatures in Europe right now. It didn’t block the sun, but it did kind of give it a weird looking glow.

Bill and I woke up slightly hungover on Sunday morning, which meant it was a good day for extra physical exertion. We decided to see if we could ride the Schauinsland Bahn, a cable car that takes people up an Alpine mountain, allowing them to walk around above the plains and get a view of the Feldberg, the Black Forest, and other points along the mountain chain. There is also an observation tower at the top of the mountain, although it is currently closed.

Before we did that, though, it was time for another innovative breakfast. We were treated to that by the same friendly waitress who had served us on Saturday morning. Below are some photos of yet another culinary adventure, morning style.

Again, these were all small plates. They may look bigger in the photos than they actually were. I ended up having two servings of the eggs. They were excellent.

After breakfast, we headed to Schauinsland to burn off the repast. The Schauinsland Bahn takes about twenty minutes to get from one point to the next. Those who’d rather drive to the top of the mountain can also do that; there is a parking area up there, as well as a mining museum. We didn’t go to the museum, although it would have been a good use of our time. One can also visit the Waldtraut, which is Germany’s tallest tree.

Instead, we walked around the steep summit and worked off some of that fabulous breakfast. I got lots of pictures, noticing people who were riding bikes, walking their dogs, or power hiking with their poles. I’ll confess, I was moving slower than most of them, but I still managed to see some magnificent views. We probably could have spent most of the day up there, although it’s important to remember than the last trip on the cable car is at 5:00 PM. I hope we can go back to Freiburg, because I would like to explore this area a lot more.

After we walked around for a couple of hours, my legs felt a bit like rubber. I noticed the time, and it was about 1:00 PM or so. I asked Bill if he wanted to stop for lunch. He demurred, saying he wasn’t very hungry. I wasn’t either, but I’ve also been in Germany long enough to know that it’s best not to wait too long to have lunch. A lot of places close after 2:00 PM.

We ended up having a delightful lunch at Die Bergstation, a little restaurant at the station on top of the mountain. They had a small menu that included small dishes, which was perfect for us. I had an open faced smoked salmon sandwich with a salad. Bill had potato soup with wurst. It appears this place is especially popular for breakfast. As I was linking the restaurant’s Web site, it indicated that they are fully booked on weekends and public holidays up until October! There are a few free spots available during the weekdays. Luckily, they weren’t booked for lunch last weekend. There’s also a little kiosk outdoors that offers food and drinks.

We made our way back down the mountain by way of the cable car. After a visit to the restroom, we decided our next stop would be at the Todtnauer Waterfall. I got the idea to do that after reading a Facebook post in the Schwarzwald group. There’s also a 450 meter “hanging bridge” at the waterfall. One can either climb up to it from the waterfall, or drive up.

We were a little confused about what to do at the waterfall. There were signs near the gate to the waterfall, as well as a broken ticket machine, indicating that it costs 2,50 euros to go to the falls, and another 12 euros to do the bridge. As we didn’t even know about the bridge before we arrived, we weren’t really prepared to visit it.

Frankly, we were kind of tired after our mountain visit, so we decided to skip the bridge. We did a similar one in Austria in 2015, which involved climbing up a steep mountain, walking across and back again, and then going back down the mountain. I wasn’t sure my muscles could take it. The waterfall ended up being free to visit, as there was no one there to take the money, and the ticket machine was broken. Many people were baffled about what to do and where to go. The guy running the cafe said he fields questions every day from flummoxed visitors.

A lot of people were visiting the Todtnauer Waterfall on Sunday, but I still managed to get plenty of pictures and some video. Here are the pictures for now. I may make a video later. The area around the waterfall is very beautiful, and like a lot of tourist areas in Germany, there’s a cafe where you can sit and enjoy it while enjoying a beverage or snack of your choice. The parking area is basically just off either side of a rather busy road with a lot of aggressive bikers. Be careful!

You can spend a good amount of time at the waterfall, if you want to. There’s a trail that leads down the creek, as well as one that leads up. And of course, you can climb up to the hanging bridge. I think the Burgbach Waterfall is prettier than this one, but mainly because there aren’t as many people hogging the scenery.

After about an hour at the waterfall, we went back to the cafe for a drink. Bill had a non-alcoholic beer, while I had a Hefeweizen.

By the time we visited the waterfall, it was getting later in the afternoon. We decided to head back to the hotel and get ready for dinner. I knew I was going to need a shower after all of the walking and sweating I did. So we went back, and I took some more photos, marveling at the beautiful scenery and realizing that we could come back and still have plenty to see and do. Better yet, maybe there wouldn’t be that cursed Saharan dust messing up the atmosphere. We had a quick drink before cleaning up. Bill tried a non-alcoholic cocktail called Luise’s Black Forest. I had my usual beer.

I’ve already written about the unfortunate incident that happened at dinner on Sunday night on my main blog. I won’t get into that here, on my generally upbeat travel blog. Instead, I’ll share photos and some comments about some of the more positive aspects of yet another delightful dinner at Luisenhöhe. That night, we were introduced to a new waiter, a young man who was born in Texas, but is Slovakian and grew up in Slovakia. He was very good at his job, and I was impressed by how confident and skilled he was.

As you can see, I was intrigued enough by the second course that I took several shots of it. It was almost too pretty to eat! And everything was so interesting… I was amazed by how willing I was to try foods I would normally shun. I usually dislike beets, but I found myself trying and enjoying them on Sunday night. And everything was washed down with an excellent local Pinot Noir.

If we had just been able to enjoy dinner and the views, this would have been a stellar day. But, as you know, some people have to rain on other people’s parades… or shit in their Easter baskets. Oh well. Overall, Sunday was a success. We had one last full day in the Freiburg area, which I’ll write about in the next post.

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Chasing lakes and waterfalls in Aus-cro-slo-aus… part nine

Tuesday morning, we woke up, got dressed, and went to the breakfast room. There was another couple there; they were German. The lady who ran breakfast asked if we wanted coffee drinks, as opposed to coffee or tea from the station. Bill had regular coffee, while I had a cappuccino. There was a buffet set up, complete with fried and scrambled eggs and a mixture of sausages and bacon. There was also the usual cheeses, fruits, vegetables, smoked salmon, breads and cereals, as well as strudel, sugared croissants, and a chocolate hazelnut creation that resembled liver pate, but thankfully didn’t taste like it.

It was a little drizzly outside when we first came inside, but the sun shyly peaked out from behind the clouds. By the time we were finished with breakfast, I could see some of the huge mountains that were obscured by fog when we arrived on Monday. I knew we were close to Slap Savica– a waterfall that was advertised in the local brochures. I read some interesting reviews of the waterfall. Some people panned it, calling it an unsatisfying tourist trap. Most of the people who complained about it were folks who had visited in the summer and had to contend with crowds. Either way, I knew it would be climb, since every review mentioned the steps. It turns out there are over 500 of them. I’m so glad I didn’t read that until we took our hike!

The drive to the waterfall is very beautiful, especially in the fall. I kept gasping at the dramatic rushing brook and the canopy of trees with red and gold leaves. The road finally ended at a parking area with a couple of restaurants. Most of the reviews noted that parking costs money, but there was no one there to collect money for parking on the day of our visit. That may be because the restaurants were closed. I was definitely impressed by the natural beauty at the base of the walk to the waterfall. Below are some photos I took as we were looking around, trying to determine where to go to access the falls. At the time, there was only one other couple there. I think I would have been happy just hanging out there all day!

We were so lucky to go to the falls on Tuesday. It was the best day for undertaking a hike of any kind. There was rain for most of the rest of our time in Slovenia. But, as you can see, we managed to get some sunny photos, too. Bill spotted the sign directing us to the little shack where we would buy our 3 euro tickets to the falls. Away we went, expecting a twenty minute hike. It took us a lot longer than that, but fortunately there weren’t many people there. We practically had the place to ourselves.

The ground was wet and the steps were steep. I took my time going up the mountain because, as I have repeatedly pointed out, I’m not exactly fit and trim. I just kept telling myself that with each step, we got closer. I promised myself I would make it to the top.

Once again, as we climbed up the mountain, I was very grateful to be visiting Lake Bohinj in the off season. Oftentimes, when I visit a place like Slap Savica, I feel pressure to keep up with others. When we visited, I counted maybe ten people on the way up and down. We had the falls to ourselves for about fifteen minutes before the next couple showed up. And it wasn’t hot outside, so I wasn’t sweating profusely at the top. Bonus… we didn’t pay for parking!

Here’s some video footage of the water…

I kept repeating to Bill how stunningly beautiful this place was… it was just gorgeous. I was grateful to still be able to climb up a mountain to see such beauty. I know not everyone things Slap Savica is all that… and lots of people don’t like having to pay to see it, especially when there’s a crowd. Personally, I’m glad we went. I wish the weather had afforded us the chance to hike in some of the other areas. For instance, I would have loved to have seen Mostnica Gorge, which is supposedly even more beautiful than nearby Vintgar Gorge is. Vintgar Gorge closed for the season on October 31st, but we visited it in 2016, anyway. Mostnica Gorge doesn’t close, although you have to pay to park at a lot near where the trail begins. But there was too much rain the rest of the week. Articles I read about Mostnica Gorge indicated that it gets pretty slippery when the weather is bad. But if we ever get back to Lake Bohinj, we will definitely make a point of hiking more, even if my bones, muscles, and joints protest. Below is a video someone made about Mostnica Gorge. Looks like it’s definitely worth the trip!

Yes… we will definitely try to visit here next time, if we have a next time.

I want to add more to this post, but my Internet is being super wonky today and keeps bumping me when I try to add more photos. So stay tuned for part ten.

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