adventure, art, BeNeLux, Brussels, Champagne Bucket trips, Paris

Pardon My French: Brussels and Paris 2026 (part nine)

Saturday morning, we went down to breakfast at Hotel L’Eldorado. Our waiter was a very pleasant man, but I don’t think he had a very strong grasp of English. We first encountered him on Wednesday night, and he didn’t seem to understand us very well.

And then on Saturday, we ordered breakfast and I asked for poached eggs. He brought me boiled eggs. I would have accepted them, but I wondered if maybe I got someone else’s order. I also had hot chocolate again, and it was very different than what I had gotten on Thursday and Friday; this time, it was thick and rich, like I’ve encountered it in Spain! I actually really liked the hot chocolate prepared that way, but I wondered why it was done differently.

Bill had pancakes without blueberries and cream. The waiter eventually brought out my poached eggs, which were perfect. We tried to explain to the waiter that breakfast was supposed to be complimentary, because of the broken elevator. He didn’t understand, so Bill had it put on the room. When we checked out, they took the charge off our bill.

Bill discovered that our hotel was near a Salvador Dali museum, so we decided to go there. We had been planning to visit the Louvre, but decided that maybe it would be better to just go to a smaller museum with fewer people. That turned out to be a good decision. The walk there involved hills, so we were able to burn off breakfast.

The Salvador Dali museum in Paris is based on a collection acquired by Beniamino Levi, an Italian man who met Dali and encouraged him to make sculptures. He would buy Dali’s pieces, as well as the intellectual rights to them.

I didn’t know anything about Salvador Dali before I visited the museum. I mean, I knew about the famous melting clock, but I didn’t know what had inspired it, nor did I know much beyond the famous surreal artwork he was known for before his death on January 23, 1989. By visiting the museum, I learned that Dali’s melting clock was inspired by watching Camembert melting in the sun. I also learned that he was fascinated by the children’s book, Alice in Wonderland.

The museum also had some very interesting and cool art pieces that showed different perspectives. The pieces were ridged, so that if you looked at them in one direction, they’d look very different if you looked at them in the other direction or straight on. Hopefully, the pictures will explain what I mean… Sorry this is a big photo dump! The museum isn’t super large, but it does have a lot of interesting pieces. There’s also a public restroom, which is always a plus!

After our visit to the museum, we walked around the charming village near the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre. It was very crowded with tourists visiting the basilica. We walked around near the huge church, but didn’t go in, because there was a really long line. I still managed to get some good photos. Below are some photos near a small church we visited. Bill lit candles for our deceased fathers.

And below are some pictures closer to the basilica… It was getting close to lunchtime, but we resisted the urge to eat among the tourists, even though it had started raining. I do wish we’d bought some art, although we bought some candy for Bill’s grandchildren.

As you can see in the last photo above, we passed Le Passe-Muraille Sculpture in Montmartre, Paris. It was somewhat close to where we had lunch. After ducking into a tiny French place that was full, we ended up at an equally tiny Italian place just across the street. The restaurant was called Tentazioni. Although it was tiny, it was also a chain, with several locations in Paris. Nevertheless, we enjoyed a very nice lunch there. Bill had linguini carbonara that was insanely good, and I had linguini with pesto and burrata. We started with focaccia, and ended with dessert… Below, you will notice a picture of a very sweet and friendly labrador, who was a service dog enjoying life outside.

After lunch, we continued walking down the hill and ended up stopping at a wine shop. We bought a couple of bottles of wine to bring home to Germany– one Italian and one French. Below are photos of the Italian wine, which we had the other night. It was excellent. I confess that I chose it because of the label.

Below are a few more photos from the Montmartre area, including a shot of the bottle shop where we found our wines.

And, just to wrap things up, we stopped by Corcoran’s Irish Pub again and hung out for awhile… This was mainly because we were a bit tired of traveling and we were ready to go home. I was glad we stopped by the pub again, because I found some more music for my collection, and I shared a moment with a Brit who appeared to be my age. We were both enjoying hearing “Our House” by Madness, a song that took us back to childhood!

In our younger days, I think Bill and I would have gone out to dinner or something. But it was a Saturday night, and as we’ve found out from many trips to France, you really need to make reservations if you want to go anywhere remotely special. So we stayed in again, and Bill picked up some very reasonably priced Korean fried chicken for dinner. He got it from a “hole in the wall” place near our hotel. There were quite a few places like that near where we stayed.

And… since we’re now at the end of our Paris trip, I’m going to go ahead and describe our chaotic journey home, so I can wrap up this series.

As it was on Friday night, it was very loud and busy outside of our hotel on Saturday night. I had forgotten all about the time change, so when I woke up to pee, I looked at the clock and it said 3:30 AM. I’m sure to the loud revellers, it actually felt more like 2:30 AM.

We had one more breakfast at the hotel. I had avocado toast with a poached egg, which was perfect! And more hot chocolate, again, done differently. This time, they brought it out rather thick, but included a side of steamed milk.

After breakfast, we decided to check out of the hotel and head to the Gare de L’est train station. That ride cost us a mere 22 euros. 😏 In retrospect, I wish we’d waited a little bit longer, because we ended up being an hour early. But that gave me the opportunity to listen to some talented people play the piano. Train stations in France often have pianos which people are encouraged to play!

We boarded our first class seats and enjoyed a very peaceful ride back to Germany. I was even impressed by the pizza we had for lunch, and were able to order directly from Bill’s phone. It was (seriously) among the best I’ve ever had in Europe. We had plans to change trains in Mannheim and get home by about 3:00 PM. Fate had different plans.

Bill noticed that the train we were supposed to catch from Mannheim to Frankfurt Airport was delayed. As we got closer to Mannheim, the train was further delayed. Bill was getting more and more agitated, because he needed to pick up Noyzi and Charlie between 5:00 and 6:00 PM. A delay would put his ability to make that time more difficult. It was also pretty chilly outside, and Bill wasn’t adequately dressed.

I needed to use the restroom, so I went into the station and encountered a VERY annoying public restroom. It cost 1,50 euros, and the turnstile wasn’t working properly. There was a line, and in spite of being attended, it wasn’t all that clean. But, I was able to relieve myself, and after about an hour delay, Deutsche Bahn let us take a different train. We were also lucky enough to score seats, which would not have been a given. Thankfully, it was just one stop, so our ride was only about 30 minutes.

Once we got to the Frankfurt Airport train station, we were able to find a great cabbie, who spirited us home. And Bill was able to get the dogs in time, and they were very happy to be home!

Overall, we had a really great time visiting Brussels and Paris, and we got to see a lot of places. It was fun visiting places we saw in 2008 and 2009, and discovering new places, like the Atomium and finally going up the Eiffel Tower. I especially enjoyed exploring the Montmartre area of Paris, which is a district I had never seen before. We did have a few glitches during our travel, but we learned from them. I will never again allow anyone to approach me at the train station offering a cab ride, for instance! I also got to learn about potatoes, chocolate, beer, and Salvador Dali!

More than once, I also said out loud that Brussels and Paris beat the hell out of Napa Valley… 😏 And, I also noticed that I left Paris liking it just a little bit more. The first time I went to Paris, I didn’t like it at all. But every time I return, I find myself more charmed and thinking I’ll someday return. I hope that turns out to be true. As for Brussels, it remains one of my favorite cities!

So that about does it for our trip to Brussels and Paris. I will be doing the usual “ten things I learned” post next! Stay tuned for that!

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France and Germany… a send off from the Army– Part 7

From Nimes, Bill and I decided we’d head to Nice.  I was last in Nice in 1997 and frankly I had forgotten how beautiful this city on the French Riviera is.  In 1997, I was decidedly broke and had been on vacation for awhile…  maybe I was jaded.  Truly, it is a great city and I’m glad Bill and I had the chance to visit.  Getting there, however, turned out to be quite the ordeal.

It started with buying tickets in Nimes.  We got to the station about 45 minutes before the train to Marseille was due to leave.  That was where we’d be picking up another train that would take us to Toulon and then yet another that would go to Nice.  There was a train that went directly to Nice from Marseille, but it was full.  Bill knew this before he approached the ticket agent, a rather surly woman who wasn’t all that polite as she issued our tickets.  We waited about 20 minutes or so just to be able to speak to her, since there happened to be a shitload of people trying to buy tickets that morning.

As we were waiting, I kept hearing banging on a piano.  It turns out that a lot of train stations in France have a piano in the foyer.  Anyone is welcome to bang on it or play…  the vast majority who played that beleaguered instrument in Nimes did not possess any discernible musical talent.  Needless to say, the banging did little to boost my mood.

Piano playing in the Nimes train station…

We got on the train to Marseilles, fortunate enough to score a fold down seat facing backwards, since the train was packed.  The Marseille train station, much like the one in Lyon, was a bit of a madhouse. Actually, it wasn’t quite as bad as the Lyon station, but it was a very busy, noisy, crowded place… and yes, there was another piano.

This guy, playing the train station piano in Marseille, was actually pretty good.

The gare…

Bill and I rushed to get the train to Toulon, which turned out to be pretty full.  We managed to find two seats, but there was nowhere to store our bags.  Given that this was a two week trip, we had a few of them with us.  We watched in amazement as the train filled up with people until the aisles and spaces between cars were completely full.

We happened to be sitting across from a French woman and her father.  She spoke English and asked us where we were from and where we were headed.  She apologized for the fact that France’s trains aren’t “comfortable”.  For the record, I didn’t think the trains in France were that uncomfortable.  Just that particular one was very, very crowded… it reminded me of being in Armenia, where all forms of public transportation are liable to be completely stuffed to the gills with people, safety standards be damned!  And unfortunately, there were a couple of people standing in the aisle who really needed a shower.

At one point, there was an announcement asking anyone who could take a later train to get off, but of course, very few people chose to do that and it did nothing to alleviate the problem.  Then there was an announcement that they were going to add more cars, which would delay us and cause us to miss our connection in Toulon.  Then, the trip was cancelled altogether.  All of these developments were kindly translated for us by the English speaking French lady sitting near us.

Bill went to find out what we needed to do and we were advised that there was a train going directly to Nice at 2:30.  It was about noon, so that meant we had time for lunch at the train station.  We went to McDonald’s.  It was very packed, so we sat outside, where it was sunny, but actually very chilly because of a high wind.  McDonald’s offered free WiFi, which entertained me for a bit.  I took a couple of photos of the view into Marseille.  It actually looks like a very nice city, even if getting in and out of there was hellish.

The view of Marseille from the station…

Bill checks things out.

The Golden Arches!

After McDonalds, we went back into the train station and visited a little cafe.  It was a rather dirty, no frills kind of place, but the people who ran it were friendly and they had beer.  While we were sitting in the cafe, an older black woman and young black man came in and took a table near us.  Based on the way they were dressed, I guessed they were from somewhere in Africa.  They wore very colorful, exotic clothes that appeared to be the style of some place other than France.  They spoke French and the man drank rose wine, while his companion (maybe his mother?) drank coffee.  They were loud, but happy and frankly very entertaining to observe.  Before too long, they were joined by two other women, similarly dressed and similarly boisterous.

These folks unwittingly entertained us…

I enjoyed watching how people reacted to this group, who seemed to be having such a great time in this dingy little cafe.  Quite a few people seemed bemused, while others appeared to be annoyed.  I kind of liked it that they were there, because I love it when I’m near interesting or entertaining people.  I have no idea what they were talking about, but I appreciated the fun they were obviously having.

Our train to Nice was also very crowded, though not nearly as much as the train we’d tried to take to Toulon was.  Once again, we got seats that faced two going the other direction.  I got up to use the bathroom, but found the toilet hopelessly clogged with paper towels and cigarette butts that some asshole had left there.  I hate it when people do that, just because they need to satisfy their nic fit.  It really messes things up for other people.

An Australian woman with two small children quickly claimed the seats opposite from us.  Inwardly, I kind of sighed, since I figured the kids would make the trip more stressful.  One of the kids appeared to be about seven or eight, while the other, a toddler, was still breastfeeding.  I only know this because the kids’ mom boldly walked up and down the aisle with the girl under her shirt.  I don’t blame her for doing that, by the way.  I’m all for breastfeeding.  I guess it was just kind of different to see someone so totally unabashed about it.  You don’t see that very often in the United States.

Anyway, the mom sat with her kids for a little while and talked to us.  Bill was very solicitous, helping her with her bags, offering her Wet Naps, and chatting with her.  After awhile, mom got up and sat elsewhere with her toddler, leaving her older daughter with us.  The girl was actually pretty well behaved, even though she’d been on the train all day.  Her mom told us that they’d come from Bordeaux.  She played with an iPad most of the time.

The Australian lady had a French woman with her who had a little boy.  At first, we thought maybe the French woman was a nanny, since she seemed very solicitous toward the Australian woman’s kids.  But it later came out that they had met during the Aussie lady’s travels.  You could have fooled me.  They really seemed like they were traveling together.

Scenes from the train to Nice…

As the long train trip wore on, I was enchanted by the scenery out the window… lots of very blue water, charming towns, and palm trees, along with quite a few mountain tunnels.  I was also enchanted by Bill, who proved that he was born to be a dad.  When the girl unsuccessfully tried to open a packet of sunflower seeds, Bill took the packet for her and opened it.  He kept his eye on her the whole time.  I couldn’t help but think that maybe Aussie lady talked to us to make sure we weren’t weirdos and then totally hoped we’d babysit her kid for her.  She correctly assessed that Bill is good with kids and, while I’m not as gentle toward tykes, I’m relatively benign.  I suppose if you’re traveling for weeks alone with little kids, you have to take help whenever you can get it.

Toward the end of the trip, Mom came back to where we were sitting.  Her younger daughter, an adorable child who appeared to have a different father than her sister did, was jumping up and down on the seat and squealing in very shrill tones.  Aussie mom asked the toddler to stop jumping, since she “had a very full nappy”.  She pulled the tyke’s diaper away and peeked in to confirm her suspicions.  I was just hoping there wouldn’t be another big mess on the already messy train.  Older girl was getting restless, jumping up and down, and flipping over the seat behind her, which had been vacated.  I just tried to stay calm and quiet.  People were looking at Bill and me, as if these kids belonged to us.  Most of them looked a bit annoyed even though, truly, the older girl in particular had been very well behaved under the circumstances.

When we got to Nice, Bill helped the lady with her bags again.  I was in a hurry to get off the train and have some peace and quiet.  It had been a long, difficult day of travel and I was ready for a rest.  I also didn’t want to get drafted into more babysitting duties!

Nice was a lot bigger, busier, and more crowded than I remembered it.  It took a little time to find our lodging, a two star establishment called the Star Hotel.  Once we got there, we were warmly welcomed by a receptionist with a remarkable American accent.  It turned out she was American and had married a Frenchman while in France learning French.  I guess this was her hotel, since she told us (and we observed) that she was there most of the time.  She gave us a triple room on the top floor, with a nice little balcony that overlooked the street.  The hotel had some strange rules, like you weren’t supposed to eat or drink in your room.  Bill asked about that and the lady at the front desk explained that the hotel used have a different owner who was strict about such things.  She just asked us not to be messy and thanked us for being considerate enough to ask.

Nobody up here but us and some seagulls…

Since we were tired, we went across the street to a Lebanese restaurant for dinner.  I think we were the proprietor’s only guests.  The food was good, and we enjoyed some wine on the little balcony.  After a full night of comfortable sleep, we spent a great day in Nice.  More on that in the next post!

Lebanese food in Nice…

  

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