France

Parker goes to France, part seven…

Yesterday morning, we were up bright and early. We packed up everything, had one last croissant breakfast, and loaded all our stuff in the car. Bill put the keys to Riesling in the lock box and we were on our way by 10:00am. I was wanting to stop by the big chocolatier on the way out of Ribeauville, but they don’t open until 10 and we don’t need chocolate that badly, to be very honest. We have visited the Daniel Stoffel outlet before and came home with lots of chocolate and cocoa goodies.

The drive back to Germany was kind of gloomy, mainly due to the heavy fog and cold temperatures. I think we left France at just the right time, since the weather is pretty chilly and foggy today, too. There was little traffic on the way back, and I can’t even say there was much going on of note. We did see the ADAC helicopter while we were making a pit stop, but I didn’t even do much rubbernecking of the accident that prompted its appearance.

We got home before 1:00pm, so Bill went to the Spirit of New Orleans for take out. We would have stopped in, but it looked like they were busy and the last time we visited, the chef/owner got really upset and started swearing very loudly. I don’t mind swearing and neither do Bill or his mom, but I didn’t want to take the risk. By the time Bill picked up our lunches, things had calmed down at the restaurant. Maybe we should have gone in for lunch, after all. John plays good music and when he’s in a good mood, he’s a lot of fun to talk to.

Bill and Parker picked up Arran last night. When they got home, Arran went crazy running around with his toy, then crashed on the couch. I keep thinking I want to get another dog, then I realize how easy it is to take care of just one. I also think about the horror stories I’ve heard of people trying to convince Germans to let Americans adopt. I know some people have managed it, but to be honest, I’m not wanting to set myself up for an unpleasant experience. So… I don’t know when we’ll get another dog. I do want one and we are looking, but I guess we’re not in a rush. I still think about Zane every day.

I’m really glad we took the opportunity to show Parker France. And, while it wasn’t Paris or Lyon or even Nice, I think she might have gotten an even more authentic look at France than she otherwise might have. I have yet to have a bad time in Alsace, or even France as a whole, even if there have been a few mishaps over the years. I’m amazed at all of the places we’ve had the chance to see since we’ve lived in Germany, but I think France may have enchanted me the most… although I am definitely due for trips to Italy, Belgium, and The Netherlands… We’ll see where we’ll end up next.

Parker will be here for a few more days. Bill is currently treating her to lunch in Wiesbaden while I do some housework and writing. It’s good for them to have some alone time, and for me to have some, too. I’m not used to being around people anymore and am a bit of an introvert, so it’s good when I can take a break. It probably makes my disposition easier to take.

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Parker goes to France, part four…

On Monday morning, we awoke to sunshine and chilly weather. Bill and I had decided that we wanted to visit Kaysersberg, since we didn’t have a chance to go there during our last visit over Memorial Day weekend in May 2018.

Before we drove to Kaysersberg, Bill and I dropped off some empty wine bottles at the bottle drop on the edge of town. Then we picked up a few items at the grocery store and took a short walk through a part of Ribeauville that we missed on prior visits. I don’t know how we missed the northwestern part of the main drag, but I’m glad we visited it a couple of days ago. I was rewarded with a few nice photos of the ruined chateaus that overlook the town…

Some might recall that Kaysersberg has the distinction of being the quaint French town where famed chef and food writer Anthony Bourdain committed suicide in June of 2018. Bill and I were rather mystified that we had been so close to where Bourdain was at the end of his life; but the truth is, we had wanted to go there during that previous visit. We’d heard it was a quaint town with good restaurants. So this time, since we didn’t have dogs with us, we decided we’d go to Kaysersberg. It was very easy to visit in January; we practically had the whole parking lot to ourselves.

The town was pretty much dead when we arrived, but I still managed to get some beautiful photos thanks to the splendid sunny weather. Yes, it was cold outside, but everything was still very inviting and pretty… and in a different month, I imagine Kaysersberg is hopping with tourists.

We decided to stop for lunch at a hotel restaurant called L’Art is Show. It was one of two restaurants we saw operating in Kaysersberg on Monday, although I’m sure at least one or two more were serving. I’ve noticed that this time of year, some businesses close while others stay open, then they seem to switch in February. Art is Show gets very good ratings on Trip Advisor and, indeed, had a pretty decent lunch crowd. Our waitress spoke a bare minimum of English, but we still managed to order lunch. They had a lunch special, which included a trip to a very generous looking salad bar, but we opted to order a la carte.

As we were leaving Kaysersberg, I got a private Facebook message from Ellen Stillman Thomas, an American who lived in Esslingen (and Heidelberg) for years and is very involved in arranging tours for Esslingen, a cute town near Stuttgart. I have been corresponding with her via Facebook and the Stuttgart area Facebook groups since about 2014 or 2015. She happened to be in Kaysersberg on Monday, with her friend, Louise, and had plans to visit a nearby winery. She asked if we wanted to join her… and we did. More on that in the next post!

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Alsace, France

Parker goes to France, part two…

After taking Arran to the Hundepension, Bill, Parker, and I loaded up the Volvo and headed to France. It was cold and cloudy, as it usually is this time of year. However, it wasn’t so cold in Germany that I packed my down jacket. I eventually regretted that decision, because it did get pretty cold in France. I did at least bring a cape that I could layer over my wool sweater. Global warming is definitely a thing, though. When we were in Germany the first time, I would not have dreamed of going outside without down. The past couple of years have truly been unseasonably warm here. We haven’t even had any snow yet. Last time I saw a decent amount of white stuff was when we lived in Jettingen.

We got on the road at about lunchtime on Saturday, January 18th. In retrospect, we probably should have eaten before we left, but I was eager to get on the road. We made one pit stop before lunch, where I managed to take a few inappropriate pics. I always get a kick out of the signs and ads in the bathrooms, as well as the people who prefer to go au naturale rather than pay the 70 cents to pee in private…

We ended up stopping in Landau, a pleasant town in southern Rhineland-Palatinate, not that far from the French border. I had told Yannick we were shooting to be at his gite between 3:00 and 4:00, but hadn’t realized that lunch would take as long as it did.

As it was, we stopped very close to the “witching hour” of 2:00pm, which is when a lot of restaurants shut down for a pause. I managed to find us a Paulaner restaurant, the Paulanerstuben-Landau, which still had lunch going. That turned out to be a fortuitous stop. The food was delicious, even if came out at a rather leisurely pace.

I had the delicious half chicken, which was crispy and probably done “extra spicy”. I say that, because they used a lot of black pepper to season it. I also noticed that they offered less spicy and mild versions. I wish I had specified, because when it comes to spicy food, my tastes are very German… or British. Makes perfect sense, too. Bill had the Wiener Schnitzel and Parker had sausages. Both of them liked their choices as much as I liked mine.

The rest of our drive to France was uneventful, except for when we stopped at an unusually rustic rest stop. There was another couple ahead of me. The man used the pissoir, which was outside (on a related note, I sure did see my share of public urination on this trip). The woman was in one of the two little wooden sheds, but she’d neglected to lock the door. Consequently, I opened the door on her when she was mid piss. Sigh… sorry lady, but I didn’t know you were in there. The doors lock for a reason.

We arrived at Yannick’s gite in the heart of Ribeauville at about 5:30pm. It was dark outside, and we were still full from lunch, as well as a bit tired from the drive. Yannick came over to say hello, and we got to meet his adorable little son, Raphael, who is about 18 months old. During our last visit to Ribeauville, Yannick’s wife was in labor with little Raphael; he was born the night we departed during our last visit over Memorial Day weekend in 2018. He was very shy, but adorable. Yannick said he wasn’t used to hearing English, but after a couple of minutes, he went to work entertaining himself with the drawers full of wine corks. Yannick says his wife will be having another baby in May or June of this year; then their family will be complete. It was a real pleasure to finally meet Raphael. I have no doubt that he’ll be bilingual in no time.

We all went to the little Carrefour grocery store located about 100 yards from the gite and loaded up on wine, beer, chips, breakfast fixings, and chocolate. Parker took one of the upstairs bedrooms, and Bill and I took the usual back bedroom. Here are some photos from Riesling, which mostly looks the same as it did last time we stayed there, in November 2017. Yannick says he’s trying to upgrade, but he’s had trouble finding workmen who are available. All of his gites in the wine house are named after local wine specialties.

We like to stay at Yannick’s place, mostly because he’s very nice and loves dogs. But his place is also very convenient to Ribeauville, has access to free lot parking, and has most everything you’d need. It’s also reasonably priced, and Yannick makes checking in and checking out a breeze. You just access the lockbox, for which he sends a code before you arrive. It’s super easy and convenient. In fact, about an hour after we left, he texted me to see how we enjoyed our time. It was, indeed, a great time! Now… on with what we did in Alsace this time! Stay tuned for part three.

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Parker goes to France, part one…

It’s been about two years since Bill’s mom, Parker, last visited us. Parker lives in Texas and has very generous friends who used to work for United Airlines. It’s through their generosity that she gets to see us in Germany. Every time Parker visits, we have some kind of adventure.

Last time she was here was in December 2017, when we still lived near Stuttgart. Before that, she was here in June 2009, also when we lived near Stuttgart. In 2017, we took her on a blind booking trip to Berlin. In 2009, we took a roadtrip to Oberstaufen, Germany, down in Bavaria. That trip turned into a day trip to Italy, whereupon we got temporarily trapped due to flooding. I have written about those trips and they can be found in this blog, although I still need to fix the formatting on them. She also visited Bill when he was posted in Bavaria back in the 1980s, but that was way before my time.

Anyway, back to 2020… It was nice to be able to get Parker in Frankfurt and only have to drive about twenty minutes rather than a few hours. Arran, the dog, was quite happy to see his grandma again. He hadn’t forgotten her from the last time and gave her an adorable welcome. Bill had to work all last week, so Parker and I hung around the house and talked. Bill had asked me to arrange a short trip for us, since Parker hasn’t had the chance to see as much of Europe as she’d like. When she visited us in 2009, we did take the briefest of detours into France so we could have lunch and Parker could say she’d been there. Other than that, she’d never been to France before.

Regular readers of my travel blog might recall that back in 2017, Bill and I discovered beautiful Ribeauville, a little town in Alsace right next to the much more touristy Riquewihr, which is supposedly one of France’s most beautiful villages. In 2017, Bill and I visited Ribeauville three times, which should really say something, given how many awesome places there are to visit in Europe. We found a great gite (vacation home in France) there, and it was so easy, since we only lived about 2.5 hours away and the owner of the gite was so pet friendly.

Our last visit to Ribeauville was in May 2018, but then we had to move to Wiesbaden. Last year was a bit of a cluster fuck in terms of getting settled and making some decisions about the future. We never made it back to Alsace in 2019. When I saw that Yannick, our faithful Ribeauville host, had availability in his largest gite– called Riesling– I jumped on it. We spent four nights visiting Ribeauville during the dead off season. We had a wonderful time, too! Ribeauville is a place we completely missed the first time we lived in Europe, but it’s now one of our go to locations whenever we need a break from Germany.

Yannick Kopff has several gites for rent. He’s got four studio sized apartments, a one room place, and an apartment with three rooms. Bill, Parker, and I stayed in his largest apartment at the wine house he converted into super convenient lodging in Ribeauville. I usually book his places through Booking.com, but he’s also listed on other sites, including reservation-gite.alsace. I would link to it, but at the moment, it does not appear that the site is working yet.

For four nights, I paid about 425 euros, and that was without a discount. Booking through Booking.com results in higher prices because Booking gets paid for reservations made through their site. I also have Yannick’s number, though, so next time we need an Alsatian break, I’ll just send him a text.

We usually bring our dog(s) with us when we go to Ribeauville, but since we had Parker and there were some places Bill and I specifically wanted to visit, this time we put him up at the Tierpension Birkenhof. We look forward to having him home tonight. I always miss our pooches when we go on trips, even if they’re relatively short.

This was probably one of the best trips to Alsace we’ve had yet, although I did miss having the dogs with us… especially Zane, who has now been gone for just over four months. I kept expecting to see them there, and remembering the times Bill and I have visited Ribeauville alone and brought both dogs with us. Sigh… well, maybe soon we’ll find a dog who needs a home. For now, here’s my latest series on Ribeauville and its environs, truly one of my favorite places in France that spoils everyone for choice in how much there is to do there, even during the off season! Stay tuned for part two!

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My mother-in-law is coming today…

So we have another trip to France planned for next weekend, which is Martin Luther King weekend. We’re going back to Ribeauville, in Alsace. We’ve been there four times already, but not since we moved to Wiesbaden. Bill and I like to go there because it’s not too far, and the owner of the apartments we book there is very laid back and pet friendly.

This time, we will not be bringing Arran with us. He’s a good traveler, but he doesn’t like to be left alone. When we had Zane, he’d stay more or less quiet, but without Zane to comfort him, he makes too much noise. We also want to show Bill’s mom some places and explore some areas we’ve missed on previous trips, like Kaysersberg, which is the city where Anthony Bourdain died a couple of years ago. We were actually in Alsace just before he committed suicide. I wasn’t the biggest Anthony Bourdain fan… and Kaysersberg is worth seeing for reasons other than the fact that it was where Anthony Bourdain departed this life.

We look forward to picking up some more wine and goodies, and showing Bill’s mom this charming part of France that a lot of Americans miss, but has become a second home for us when we need a break from Deutschland. I don’t feel like we need a break from Germany yet, especially in France, which we just left a couple of weeks ago… but I do always enjoy Ribeauville, even if it’s pretty dead there in January. Besides, we’ve stayed in the gite we’re renting twice before, and it’s a pretty comfortable place to be.

Maybe next month, if there’s time, we’ll start looking for a new companion for me… and for Arran, if he’ll tolerate another dog around. He does need a playmate, and I need someone to snuggle when Arran is pouring on the charm for Bill every night. We just have to find someone that will let us adopt.

Stay tuned for more new travel posts… maybe even today! Depends on how tired our guest is after her long flight from Texas!

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Alsace

Ribeauville… AGAIN! Part 3… Primates with personality, French dining, and Sunday shopping!

On Sunday morning, I told Bill I really wanted to visit Kaysersberg, which is rumored to be a beautiful town as well as the birthplace of Albert Schweizer.  I also wanted to go to Montagne des Signes, which is basically Alsace’s version of Monkey Hill.

As many readers may know, Germany has Affenberg-Salem, which is a place where visitors can feed free roaming monkeys popcorn.  Bill and I went to Monkey Hill last year and had a great time, so I wanted to see the French version.  Montagne des Singes is in Kintzheim, which is in the opposite direction of Kaysersberg.  Since there are specific opening hours for Montagne des Singes, I was thinking maybe we could visit the pretty town of Schweitzer’s birth later in the afternoon.  Bill was up for it, so off we went.

I didn’t realize that Kintzheim also has an eagle park, which mostly gets good ratings on Google and Trip Advisor.  It didn’t open until 1:30pm, so we decided to see the monkeys, have lunch, and then maybe go see the eagle park.  We managed to make one plan work out.  Oh well.  We can always visit Alsace again.  Below are some photos I took at Montage des Singes, which doesn’t take a lot of time to visit, but really is a lot of fun, especially if you have kids.

This park is only open from March until November.  We usually visit Alsace during the off season, so this was the first time we were in the area when it was working and we were staying longer than a night.  I’m glad we stopped in for a visit, although I probably don’t need to visit the monkey park again.  One other thing to know– during the tourist season, a lot of places on the Alsatian wine route are open on Sundays.  That means you can go shopping if you want to.  During our previous visits, we’ve been during the short off season, when it’s more like being in Germany on Sunday.

Kintzheim is also a very pretty town.

 

Montagne des Singes has a very large, free parking lot.  There’s also a snack bar, free toilets, and a playground for kids.

Map of the complex.

Entrance into the park.  It costs 9 euros per adult, while children from ages 5 to 15 cost 5,50 euros.  Children under five get in free of charge.  I saw a lot of people with very little kids with them, having a ball.  Like Monkey Hill in Affenberg-Salem, Montagne des Signes has Barbary Macque monkeys.  In many ways, this park is very much like the one in Germany, except it seemed smaller and lacked a lake.

At various times during the day, they have demonstrations.  We heard one in German.  Quite a number of the young people working there were trilingual– French, English, and German speakers.

Same signs that are at Monkey Hill…  Incidentally, my German friend explains that this park was founded and is owned by the same guy who founded the one in Affenberg-Salem, Baron Gilbert de Turckheim.  There is also another park in France and one in England.

Off we go to pick up our very small handfuls of popcorn.  

Some of the monkeys were very charming and flat out posed for the cameras.

Bill feeds one of the residents.  It’s like giving candy to an exceptionally calm toddler.

I got a kick out of this monkey… I like to hang around this way, too.  Especially when I’m naked.

These two monkeys by the exit were taking advantage of all of the people who rationed their popcorn and had leftovers.  If you wanted to, you could go through the park again.  It doesn’t take very long.  I think our visit was only about an hour.

Another primate with personality.

More monkey pictures appear at the end of this post.

After we visited the monkey park, we decided to have lunch in Kintzheim.  There are several restaurants there.  We chose to dine at Hotel Restaurant Jenny, not just because Jenny is my name.  They had a rather extensive menu posted outside of their terrace, but when we sat down, we were given a very limited menu.  However, all of the dishes we saw yesterday looked good and we had no complaints about what we ordered.

I talked Bill into Riesling.  We shared a split.

A sign bearing my name.

I went with the asparagus with Black Forest ham and dried ham.

It came with two sauces.  One was Hollandaise with lots of dill.  The other, I couldn’t tell you the name of, although it tasted fine.  Both were mildly flavored.  I preferred the Hollandaise, although it wasn’t like any I’d had before.  It was more like mayonnaise.  I don’t like drowning my food in a lot of condiments, so this kind of went to waste.

I was especially pleased with the dried ham, though.  It was very good.

Bill had jambonneau with cheese sauce.  Basically, it was like a pork knuckle that had been boiled instead of roasted or baked.  The inside of it was very moist and tender, although the outside was less appetizing.  I think Bill and I both like our pork knuckles with cracklins.  

I couldn’t resist dessert.  I saw a bunch of really enticing ones coming out to the terrace.  I went with a chocolate Charlotte, with is basically chocolate mousse surrounded by ladyfingers.  It was served with vanilla sauce, whipped cream, and toasted almonds.  I liked it because it wasn’t too much.

 

While we were waiting for lunch, I looked up the eagle park and was rather put off by some of the negative reviews of the place.  While most people seem to think it’s a great place to see eagles, I was reminded that these magnificent birds of prey are basically kept on short leashes until it’s time for them to perform.  I understand that this is how it’s done with these types of shows, but figured it might be depressing.  So we skipped it and headed back to the apartment, so the boys could have a break.

Besides… the clouds were starting to roll in…  If we had gone to the eagle park, we would have been caught in the rain.  By the time we got back to nearby Ribeauville, there was a steady downpour.

Pretty Bergheim, which is very close to Ribeauville and quite attractive.  There’s a lot to do in Alsace, which makes it a great place to go for a quick weekend out of the Stuttgart area.  It’s only a couple of hours away, yet you could come back several times and not do the same things twice.  

We took it easy for the rest of the afternoon and enjoyed the bottle of sparkling wine our host, Yannick, left for us.  Although this time, we rented one of his tiny studio apartments, we didn’t really want for anything, except a little peace and quiet.  There was a group of German ladies at the wine house who were very nice, but kind of loud.  However, they didn’t stay up until an unreasonable hour and were very nice about Zane and Arran, so I can’t complain too much.

As I mentioned in an earlier post, Yannick’s wine house would be really great if you had a family reunion or a big group and wanted to rent the whole thing.  It’s very convenient and he’s a great landlord.  In fact, he just texted me from the hospital, where his poor wife has been since Friday, trying to have a baby!  I’m sending them birthing vibes!

For dinner, we decided to eat at Chez Martine.  We ate there the first time we visited Ribeauville and I remembered how good the Quiche Lorraine was.  And even though I also had quiche on Saturday, I say one can’t have too much quiche in one’s life.  It turned out to be an excellent decision.  Our waitress was absolutely charming and sweet and the food was outstanding.  Bill had Chez Martine’s version of the dish I’d had on Friday at Restaurant du Mouton and it was vastly superior.

Last night’s wine.  Bill decided to try something different.  This grape didn’t thrill me because I like my whites crisp and this tasted a little flat.  But it was a change from Riesling, so that wasn’t a bad thing.

Bill had potato pancakes with smoked salmon and a salad.  His potato pancakes weren’t burnt like one of mine was when we ate at Hotel du Mouton.  I love that they serve the dressing on the side, too.  That dressing is a delightfully light and creamy Dijon mustard based creation.

That Quiche Lorraine was outstanding.  It was priced at about five euros more than what we were charged at Brasserie de La Poste next door, but it was also vastly superior in quality.  It was perfectly seasoned, generously proportioned, and piping hot.  I think Chez Martine serves the best quiche in Ribeauville.  

For dessert, we split a piece of cheesecake.  It was very simple, not too heavy, and not too sweet.  And we also had espresso.  Total bill came to a little over sixty euros.

 

The dogs were surprisingly well behaved this time, although Zane did let out an ear splitting yelp when Bill took him out to pee at 5:00am.  But it was just one yelp and this time, no one yelled at Bill in French.  We had a quick breakfast and cleared out of the apartment at 9:30am.  Yannick’s key box system makes it very easy to check in and out.  As I mentioned before, he was busy with his family this time, so we didn’t get to see him.

As long as we’re living in the Stuttgart area, I have no doubt we’ll be back.  Alsace is so easy and pleasant to visit.  I still can’t believe we really didn’t explore it the first time we lived in Germany.  I know we have to visit one more time, if only so I can finally see Kaysersberg.

One more Black Forest photo on the way home.  We took a different route that was less confusing, but slightly less scenic.

Below are some photos of the monkeys I took with my digital camera.

Another touching family moment.  One thing I did notice over Montagne des Signes is that it was less structured.  When we visited the one in Germany, we got a long spiel about the rules.  This time, the spiel was shorter and the overall experience seemed to be both more laid back and less crowded.  I’d say it’s worth a visit if you like animal parks, especially if you have small children.

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Ribeauville… AGAIN! Part 2… Wandering the vineyards, eating, drinking, and shopping

After Friday night’s dinner fiasco, Bill and I were determined to enjoy Saturday.  The morning started off with beautiful blue skies and warm temperatures.  We enjoyed some very fresh croissants for breakfast, strong coffee, orange juice, and fresh eggs and ham.  Then, we put leashes on the dogs and took them for a walk in some local vineyards.

Those who have been to Alsace already know that the area is practically littered with vineyards, where grapes are grown for the local wines.  Bill had found what he called a “trail”, but was actually a road that led up the side of a hill.  Below are some pictures from that little adventure, which culminated in Bill’s falling on his ass and sliding down a hill.

In Ribeauville, if you get caught not cleaning up your dog’s poop, it’s a 35 euro fine.  Having looked around, I don’t think this is a rule that is regularly enforced.  However, I do like the sledgehammer imagery.

Despite the occasional landmine, Ribeauville remains a lovely place.

I hate climbing hills, but will do it for a good view.  We got a few yesterday after panting in the heat.

A few dramatic views of the castle ruins over the town.

As pretty as this was, I fretted about walking back down.  We had the dogs with us and they were eager.  Zane almost pulled me over a few times.

We tried to walk down the side of the hill, rather than going back to the road we walked up.  Unfortunately, we found it an impossible endeavor.  There was no legal way to access the town from where we were in the vineyards.  In fact, I’m not even sure if we were trespassing…  

Finally, Bill slipped and slid down the hillside on his butt.  So we sucked it up and walked back down the way we came.  By the time we were finished, we were both hot and sweaty.  The dogs were worn out for the rest of the day.

But I did get a picture of this interesting building, right before a local walked out of it and gave me a dirty look.  There was a pile of feces nearby… wonder if he thought our dogs were the culprit.

 

We took a brief rest in the apartment.  I hosed off in the shower with cool water and we all rehydrated.  I had to change clothes thanks to all the sweating I did.  But on the bright side, I get the sense that maybe all this exercise will help me burn off the beer gut I’ve been growing.  According to the health app on my phone, I walked 4.6 miles and 20 floors.  Not bad!

At around 12:30pm, we decided to have lunch at Brasserie de la Poste.  It was another restaurant we hadn’t yet tried and I was curious about it.  This time, we had a mostly excellent restaurant experience.

Obligatory menu shot of Bill.

But once again, the waiter misunderstood me and brought me a small beer instead of a big one.  

I had a delicious Quiche Lorraine with a salad.  Bill had a cheese tart with a salad.  Service was friendly and the food was splendid.

Bill’s cheese tart.  He said it was made with mild cheese.  I didn’t try it.

Brasserie de la Poste is right next to Chez Martine, which has the best quiche I’ve ever tasted.  I was tempted to eat lunch there, but decided to try a different place just for the sake of experience.

We walked around some more after lunch, then visited the local bottle shop to pick up some wines.  Last time we visited Ribeauville, we stopped in to La Bonne Bouteille and bought some really nice vino.  This time, the same guy who helped us before was there.  He was quite a salesman, speaking excellent English with a gorgeous French accent.  I could have listened to him speak all day as he demonstrated his vast knowledge of wines from the Rhone region.  We left there with six bottles– four reds and two whites.  I probably shouldn’t spend so much time drinking wine, but it’s such a pleasure.  Especially in France!

Case in point… the nice local Riesling I had at a bar on the main drag…

But then I switched to beer, as we listened to French, English, and American pop music and watched our bearded barkeep flirting with the ladies sitting outside on his terrace.  At one point, a friendly local came in and tried to talk to us, but our French skills and her English skills were compatible enough.  Maybe it’s time I learned basic French.  I spend a lot of time in France.

These guys looked pretty friendly.

The outside of the bar was more charming than the inside.

 

Next, we stopped in a pottery shop… same place we went to last time we were here.  I bought two more pieces, a casserole dish and a plate for escargot.  I don’t eat a lot of snails, but I thought it looked cool.  Besides, I can always come up with a creative way to use it, not that I ever entertain anyone.

I got a kick out of this sign, which basically reads “Don’t let your dogs piss on my wall and clean up any droppings.”  This doggie toilet habit seems to be quite a problem in Ribeauville.

 

Every time we’ve visited Ribeauville, we’ve noticed a large restaurant on the corner of town called Auberge Au Zahnacker.  Bill wanted to try it for dinner last night, since they have a beautiful terrace with a vine covered roof.  I was game, so we went.  It turned out we were there at the same time several large groups were.  One group was from Denmark and they loudly asked for English menus, which were both available and welcome.  They had one server who spoke heavily accented English.  She apologized that she only knew a little.  Actually, her English was quite good.  She was very helpful and very busy last night!

Bill looks for a bottle of wine.  Last night, it was not held hostage.

The all important English menu!

He made a good choice!  And from start to finish, this was a much nicer experience than the one we had on Friday night.

C’est bonne!

 

We decided to have grilled beef rib, which is a dish reserved for at least two people.  Frankly, I think it would have served at least three.  We brought about half of my serving back to the apartment with us, along with a lot of fries.  It was priced at 27 euros per person and was very good.  They also brought out the uncut version to show us before they plated it.

My portion was huge!

They gave Bill the bone.  It looks like he should have gotten more meat.

Frites!  They were kind of average.

The dish came with Bearnaise sauce.

Bill very sensibly had vegetables, which included cauliflower, broccoli, green beans, and wax beans.

This was what I couldn’t finish.  Maybe I’ll get to it today, but I probably won’t.  We’re going to venture out of Ribeauville for awhile.  The total bill came to 89 euros.

The outside area is very nice, especially at this time of year.  I would go back to Auberge Au Zahnacker.

A couple more photos of the area.  Ribeauville is so charming.

We didn’t do that much yesterday other than eat, drink, and walk.  Today, I’m hoping to do some more specific activities… and maybe drink less.  But we’ll see what happens!

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Alsace

Ribeauville… AGAIN! Part 1… knotty gets snotty over a pile of pork

A couple of weeks ago, I asked Bill if he’d like to go somewhere for Memorial Day weekend.  He said “sure”, so I went looking for places to stay.  I tried to find a place we hadn’t been yet.  In retrospect, there were a few places I forgot to consider, places in Germany I’ve been wanting to visit and haven’t yet.  But, for whatever reason, they didn’t cross my mind.  I started thinking of Alsace again and how much we always enjoy our visits to northeastern France.  Plus, I just love France and Alsace is so convenient and so pretty…

I realized our old friend Yannick, who has rented us apartments in Ribeauville three times before, had space available.  Granted, it was one of his “studio” apartments, Muscat, which I knew would be a lot less spacious than “Riesling”, the three bedroom apartment we have stayed in twice so far.  The first time we rented that apartment in February 2017, it was because we were planning to bring Bill’s mother with us.  She ended up not being able to visit us due to an injury and the sudden need for surgery, so we stayed there on our own.  It was awesome.  Then last November, we came back and stayed in Riesling again because it was available and inexpensive.

The other apartment we’ve stayed in is “Pinot Noir”, which is a “one bedroom” apartment.  Actually, it’s more like a big studio with a curtain that divides a back area from the living area.  That was the first apartment we rented from Yannick, back in January 2017.  So, you see, we’ve been to Ribeauville before and we keep coming back, mainly because Yannick is so easy to deal with and Ribeauville is such a cute town.

Yesterday, we got on the road to wine country and had to stop at a German gas station to pick up some motor oil.  Our 2006 Toyota RAV 4 needs an oil change, but Bill never got around to it.  The engine was about a quart low.  We stopped three times before Bill finally found the oil he needed.  The car still needs an oil change.  Oh well… it handled itself fine crossing the mountains.  I snapped a few pictures of the stunning scenery.  We usually come through this area in the winter, so it’s glorious to see it when the weather is nice.  Before are a few blurry shots of the beguiling Black Forest as we passed through it.

Finally, at about 4:30 or so, we entered France.  It seemed we went over a different bridge over the Rhein than we usually do.  It confused Bill, who had some issues getting out of the very congested Strasbourg area.

Bonjour again.

 

Bill got confused at one point and ended up in a nightmare of a traffic jam heading toward the city.  He started cussing and my bladder started screaming for a rest stop.  We had to get off at an exit near a mall and were immediately accosted by a group of Syrian refugees panhandling on the side of the road.  I actually felt sorry for them, since it was rather hot outside and the women were completely covered in black.  Bill says it’s time for Ramadan, though, which is probably why they were out there.  Fortunately, we found a gas station… and, how refreshing, not only did one of the guys there say “Bonjour” to me, but I didn’t have to pay 70 euro cents for the privilege of peeing.

Once we finally started heading south, we got caught in another Stau.  We were behind one guy who was checking his phone as he was creeping along.  Bill went into retired Army officer mode and barked, “Get off your phone, Sir!”  That put me in a silly mood and I started asking him ridiculous questions about what he was like when he was still in the military.  One thing about Bill… he almost never yells unless he’s in traffic.  He was definitely bitching yesterday, but then I started asking him about how he dealt with guys in the company he commanded, trying to imagine him yelling at some guy in basic training.  That’s always good for a laugh.  Bill is probably one of the most mild mannered people I know.

We got to the parking lot near our French gite just before seven o’clock and lucked into a good parking spot.  Thanks to the traffic, it took us an extra hour to get to Ribeauville.  Then, once we got to the outside of the apartment, I had some trouble finding the code to open the lockbox.  We tried calling Yannick, but got a recording.  Later, he sent me a message telling me he was in the hospital with his wife.  I’m not sure, but it sounds like she was having a baby.  He says he’ll visit today, so I’m sure we’ll get the scoop.  Below are pictures of Muscat.

A big, king sized bed that is pretty comfortable, although my back is used to a feather bed, so this was a little painful.  I don’t expect feather beds in rental properties, though, so I don’t fault the bed for my back.

And the rest of the tiny apartment.  There’s a small bathroom with a shower and a tiny little kitchenette area.  Yannick left us a bottle of sparkling wine, which we put in the dorm sized fridge.  There’s a stove and a microwave, coffee makers, and of course, a raclette grill.  The apartment is kind of microscopic, but would be fine for one or two people.  It would also work well for a group renting the Riesling apartment next door and needing a little extra space.  Actually, I think this wine house would be awesome for a family reunion, if you managed to rent the whole thing.

 

View from our window.  It’s a bit noisier in this apartment, because it’s right by a busy thoroughfare.  There’s a group of very pleasant German ladies staying in the Riesling apartment we’ve rented twice before.  They were pretty cool with Zane and Arran.

 

After we settled in, we went searching for food.  Since we’ve been to Ribeauville a few times now, we’ve been to a lot of the restaurants on the main drag.  I wanted to try a different place.  When we were here in November, I noticed Hotel du Mouton’s restaurant.  They had “cock” on the menu and that always excites me.  But first, we stopped at a restaurant right next to it.  We moved on when I noticed some guy giving me the side eye when I spoke English.

We approached Hotel du Mouton’s restaurant, where there were three tables open on the terrace.  A couple of waiters were standing there, looking casual.  They seemed inviting, so I started to a table, which they said was reserved.  Then, they pointed to another table at the end of the terrace.  We headed for that one and they said that one was also reserved.  We finally ended up at the first table, where we were finally invited to sit down.  I must admit, this did not leave me with the best first impression, especially since it seemed like all eyes were on us.  But we sat down… and proceeded to wait for about ten minutes before anyone bothered to speak to us.

I used to wait tables myself, so I tend to be pretty forgiving and patient when it comes to service issues while dining out.  Still, I was hungry, tired, and in need of a drink.  I was also annoyed by the seating rigamarole and watching as the waiters casually walked past us, filling wine glasses and not even inviting us to go screw ourselves.  It was off-putting, and I gave some thought to leaving.  Then I started humming inappropriate songs I learned from Red Peters’ song snatch program.  But then, a man wearing a leather apron finally stopped and asked if we were ready to order.

Bill looks at the menu.  It would be a long time before he got to give his orders.  Hmm… wonder if it was like that for him in the Army, too.

 

Bill ordered the first selection.  I was very tempted by the cock, but asked for an entrecôte…  I got the Choucroute Garnie.

 

The restaurant had a number of asparagus dishes offered on special.  I might have ordered one, but I couldn’t read the sign, since it was mounted on the wall.  Some guy was sitting in front of it and blocking the view of anyone who might be interested.  I decided on an entrecôte, which is a rib eye steak.  It was supposed to come with either pepper sauce or morel sauce.  Bill decided on marinated salmon with potato pancakes, a dish I had been eyeing myself.

The waiter came over and Bill started trying to speak horrible French.  Then he switched to German.  The waiter finally indicated that he spoke English, so Bill switched to that.  He ordered us a bottle of wine, some sparkling water, and the salmon pancakes.  Then I ordered the entrecôte, but was surprised when the waiter simply said “Okay,” collected the menus, and quickly left without asking me the temperature or which sauce I preferred.  After he served the wine and the water, we didn’t see him again for some time.

While we were waiting for our food, I noticed the restaurant was offering a special Wagyu beef entrecôte from the United States.  I wondered if maybe that was what I was going to get, since it made no mention of sauces.  It was 42 euros and I figured they’d just bring it out super rare, since a lot of French people seem to like really bloody meat (though I don’t).

I also noticed that they were holding our wine hostage, a practice I really hate.  Everyone’s bottles were kept on a table and the waiters were pouring the wines as they had the opportunity.  In some restaurants, this practice is considered good service, and it is, if the wait staff is attentive.  When they are weeded, it becomes a real nuisance.

After some time passed, a different waiter showed up with Bill’s dish and one that was unrecognizable to me.  It was basically a pile of pork with sauerkraut.

“I didn’t order that.” I said when the waiter tried to give it to me.

He looked confused, went to his colleague, and clearly upset the man.  Our original waiter came back and said, “Yes, you did order the choucroute.” he said, checking his notes.  “Because if you had ordered the entrecôte, I would have asked you the temperature and which sauce you wanted.”  It was as if because he wrote down the wrong thing, in his mind, the matter was settled.  Obviously, he couldn’t have mistaken choucroute for entrecôte, right?  And yet he did!  And he was trying to blame me for his error.  Bullshit!

At that point, I was becoming extremely annoyed and was quickly getting over the whole experience.  I snapped, “I ordered the entrecôte.  And you’re right that you didn’t ask me the temperature or which sauce I wanted.  In fact, I wondered why.”

I can’t say for sure, but it’s very likely that I had one of my trademark venomous expressions on my face.  I usually do when I get pissed off.  I do know that my voice became quite sharp and I could tell the guy was worried that I was about to lose my shit right there at the table.  I was a bit hangry and really tired of the bumbling service.  I just wanted to eat and get out of there.

The guy scurried away with the food, then came back and offered me the pile of pork again.  He said, “If you don’t take this, you’ll have to wait for the entrecôte to be cooked.”

I was thinking to myself, Duh… of course I would have to wait for a steak to be cooked to order.  This isn’t a McDonald’s.  I probably would have preferred McDonald’s at that point.

Then Bill, sweet gentleman that he is, said “I’ll take the choucroute.  You can have the salmon and potato pancakes.”  That was alright with me, since I’d been thinking about ordering the pancakes anyway.

The waiter looked relieved as he served me the pork.  He actually smiled as Bill and I switched plates.  It probably appeared that the awkward bullshit was about to end.

I was sitting there wondering why in the hell that man was arguing with me over what I ordered.  Why would I lie about that?  I don’t go out to restaurants, order stuff, and then change my mind after I’ve ordered.  That doesn’t make any sense.  I understand that people make mistakes.  I made a lot of them when I waited tables.  But I felt the waiter was very rude to argue with me about what I ordered.  The correct response is not an argument.  The correct response is, “I apologize.  What can I do to fix the problem?”

So these were the potato pancakes.  They were served with pieces of marinated salmon, which are not too visible in the photo because they are under the pancakes.  One of the endive leaves was filled with a horseradish dip.

And this was the erroneous pile of pork farts the waiter tried to serve me.  Bill says the sauerkraut wasn’t all that good.  There was a lot of it, so it’s good that I didn’t actually eat this.  It would have been very windy in our little apartment if I had.  I don’t think Bill was able to eat the wiener.  That was too much protein.

The good news is that after the waiter got a load of my bitchface, he released our wine from custody and put it on the table.  The wine was probably my favorite part of the meal.  It was full of the essence of dark berries and, when I tasted it after eating a couple of peanuts, it tasted a little like a PBJ sandwich.  Better yet, I could keep my glass filled.

Alas, one of the potato pancakes arrived a bit scorched.  Fortunately, the other two were unscathed and I was plenty full.

Instead of having dessert, we decided to have after dinner drinks.  Bill enjoyed a very lovely Japanese whiskey.  Props to the second waiter, who did a very professional presentation, complete with showing us the bottles from which he was pouring.

While I had a snifter of Armagnac from 1973… just a year younger than I am.  The Armagnac was dangerously smooth and at 16 euros, not exactly cheap.  However, it did leave me with a smile on my face.  We noticed the rest of the service was done by a different waiter wearing a leather apron.  He had piercings in his chest and was a lot more professional than the other guy was.

 

The bill came to 92 euros.  It’s probably the only bill we will ever be presented by Hotel du Mouton because I don’t think we’ll be going back there.  That was probably one of the least comfortable dining experiences I’ve had in a good long while.  It’s a shame, too, because the hotel is in a cute area and gets fairly good reviews on Trip Advisor and Google.  I saw the owners there last night with their adorable little girl.  I would be very surprised if this is the impression they’d want to leave with their guests… and any potential guests who happen to read this review.

Hotel du Mouton… looks inviting enough, but looks can be deceiving.  Oh well.  We’ll find a better place today.

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Alsace

Ribeauvillé trois… Pt. 3

We awoke to more rain on Saturday.  I was kind of bummed out about that, since there are a couple of other little villages in the area I want to visit.  I had designs on seeing Kaysersberg and Bergheim, both of which are reputed to be very charming places.  Despite having visited Alsace several times since 2014, we still haven’t visited all of the cute towns.  Of course, that just gives us a good reason to return to the area.  On the other hand, time in Europe is precious and there are so many other places to see.  We probably should have just manned up and gone.

Another activity I had considered was visiting the spa in Ribeauvillé.  On the outskirts of town, there is a large resort hotel that has a spa and a casino.  I read up on the Balneo before our visit, but like most French pools, the guys have to wear Speedos.  Although Bill has been able to bring himself to go naked in German spas, he is still unwilling to don a maillot.  So we didn’t go to the spa… I’ll keep working on him, though.

One thing we did do this time that we haven’t really done much of on previous visits is go shopping.  Yep, we stayed in Ribeauvillé and spread around some euros.  The town has a lot of cute little shops where it’s easy to part with money.  We started by visiting what was advertised as an “art exhibition”. It was free of charge and set up in what appeared to be a very old church no longer in use.  They had maybe a dozen or so abstract paintings set up, as well as lots of what looked like handmade crafts for sale.  There were Christmas tree ornaments, purses, knitted ponchos and gloves, and lots of other items.  We did end up buying a new ornament for one of our Christmas trees.

It wasn’t a big exhibition, but the inside of the little church was well worth looking at.  

After we took in the “exhibition”, we walked further down the street and noticed a guy standing in a doorway offering cheese samples.  I don’t actually like cheese that much, unless it’s melted and in something.  Bill loves cheese, though, so we went into this place that had nothing but some sausages and huge cheese wheels.  Bill only wanted about 100 grams, but he walked out with about $100 worth of cheesy comestibles.  The two young people selling the cheese had trouble cutting small pieces and cut two big slabs of the stuff.  Fortunately, Bill is easy going and had plenty of cash on hand.  My guess is that his cheese loving buddies at work will get a treat this week because there is no way we can eat as much as he bought.

Bill says the cheese is very good… kind of like Gruyere, which I do happen to like in small quantities.    Guess we’ll be making potatoes au gratin or something…

 

Beaucoup Fromage!  

 

Once we were done with the cheese shop, it was getting close to lunchtime.  A lot of businesses close for two hours starting at noon, which gives people the perfect opportunity to have a leisurely lunch.  I have also noticed that every time we visit this town, at least a couple of restaurants are closed for a holiday.  It’s almost like they take shifts.  I noticed two places we visited last time were closed this time.  And places that were closed last time were open this time.

I took another enchanting shot of Ribeauvillé…  Next time, we will have to broaden our horizons.

 

Every time we’ve come to Ribeauvillé, we have passed a restaurant called La Flammerie.  Our host told us it’s a very popular place, especially at night.  Indeed, it’s always packed at lunch and dinner and we were lucky to score a table at lunchtime on Saturday.  When we sat down, there were tables available, but they filled up very quickly.

Bill checks out the offerings and we both decide to try a local beer called Meteor, which they had on tap.

 

La Flammerie seems to specialize in “ham knuckles”, known in these parts as schweinshaxe.  I was tempted to get one, since they seem to be prepared differently in France and they had a number of them listed on the menu.  But then I realized that I can never finish pork knuckles.  They usually end up being two or three meals for me.  Then I considered having a “faux filet”, which is basically just a steak.  But I can get steak anywhere…  So I finally opted for more duck, since duck isn’t always easy to find.  It was prepared with a pinot noir and honey sauce.

My duck tasted good, though if I’m honest, the pinot noir and honey sauce wasn’t very appetizing looking.  My dish also came with sauerkraut and roasted potatoes.  I’m not exactly sure what the little ramekin was full of.  It looked like it could have been anything from fruit to kidneys.  I didn’t want to risk it, since the restaurant was crowded.  If it was something that made me feel nauseated, it would be hard to get to the bathroom!  I have a feeling that ramekin was probably offal of some sort…  How awful!

 

I must edit to add that my German friend, Susanne, checked out the menu for me and she says the contents of the ramekin were “Quetsche” (a type of local plum).  I like plums, so I probably would have enjoyed them.  Unfortunately, an unfortunate incident from our last trip to France is still fresh in my mind.  While we were in Burgundy, Bill ordered what he thought was a type of sausage.  It turned out he ordered pigs’ intestines, complete with the colon.  Since I have a weaker stomach than he does, I decided it was better to be safe than sorry!

Bill had “roesti”, which is another local favorite.  It’s basically Alsatian comfort food– roasted potatoes with cheese.  His dish came with a salad and some bread.

Instead of dessert, we decided to have local digestives.  I had Mirabelle, which is a spirit made with local plums.  Bill had another local liqueur called Marc.  It’s kind of like grappa.

The menu posted outside.

After a quick potty break at the apartment for us and the dogs, we continued our shopping spree.  I decided to buy the blue suede cap, pictured below…  It’s actually a German made product, but it came in handy because of all the rain.

Is it me?  Damn, I am really blonde now…  No bottles involved; just getting old.  I like the cap, though I rarely wear head gear.

The picture speaks for itself.

 

We stopped inside this charming little shop where a guy was selling homemade liqueurs and wines.  He didn’t speak English, but he and Bill were able to converse a bit in German.  We bought some raspberry liqueur, creme de cassis, and a bottle of Cremant.

 

Our next stop was at a bottle shop… they were advertising a huge wine tasting.  We didn’t end up going because the weather sucked and we didn’t want to be hungover for our drive back to Germany.  However, we did buy a couple of nice reds.

This was a pretty cool little shop.  It’s not very big, but there’s a little bit of everything offered there, from spirits to wine related gifts.  The proprietor spoke very charmingly accented English, too.  I was intrigued by a staircase that obviously once led to an upstairs but is now simply used for displaying stuff, since the top of the steps met with the ceiling..  I guess there must be another staircase in the building.

This bottle of dessert wine was priced at 345 euros!  No wonder it was behind bars.

A good bet for wine lovers…

 

Last time we were in Ribeauvillé, we stopped at a winery for a tasting and walked out with six bottles to take home with us.  This time, we went to Louis Sipp, which is a well-known winery in town.  For five euros, you can try three wines.  Or, if you make a purchase, they don’t charge for for the tasting.  We tried six wines and left with six bottles.  If we’d wanted to, we could have spent the day tasting wines.  There are a number of places on the Alsatian Wine Route, but it would be just as easy to just walk around any of the little towns.

I can’t believe he was a teetotaler when we first met.

A group of French youths joined us while we tasted wines.  

Finally, we stopped by a pottery store.  I have my share of Polish pottery, which we bought when we lived in Germany back in 2007-09, as well as stuff we’ve found at AAFES.  Alsace also has nice pottery.  We stopped in one store that had many pieces crafted in Soufflenheim, a well-known pottery town just over the French border with Germany.

I bought a few pieces… as many as I could get away with before Bill objected.  Unfortunately, we don’t have a lot of space in our current house for cookware.  Otherwise, I think I might have picked up one of those casserole dishes.  

We were pretty full from lunch, so we spent Saturday evening watching TV.  Bill took the dogs out for an early evening stroll and I guess the dogs started baying again, because a guy staying in a building next to ours stuck his head out of his window and started berating Bill in French.  Bill is a very mild mannered and non confrontational person.  It’s probably a lucky thing that I wasn’t walking the dogs because I probably would have started yelling back at him in English, and I would have included some choice universal swear words that wouldn’t have needed any translation.

I get that it’s annoying when dogs bark, but ours don’t bark constantly.  In fact, they usually only make noise for a minute or so.  Moreover, we weren’t the only ones with dogs in the area.  We heard lots of barking from other canines.  If that guy actually lives in that place, he probably hears a lot of barking all the time, which might account for his unpleasant disposition.  Yannick, the guy who owns the apartments where we stay, is very dog friendly and he told us that there have been times when all four of his apartments in the wine house (he has seven total, but the others are in a different building) have had dogs in attendance.

Anyway, yelling at people whose dogs occasionally bark is really not productive.  We do the best we can not to let our dogs disturb others, but sometimes shit happens.  They’re animals, and sometimes they are unpredictable.  Fortunately, we didn’t have to take the boys out in the middle of the night on our last night in town.  However, during yesterday’s morning stroll, someone driving a Porsche SUV that had been parked in the same lot where our car was, went screaming past Bill.  And my sweet, easygoing husband screamed, “You fucking ASSHOLE!” at the guy, who was either the one who yelled at him or someone trying very hard to convince everyone else how big his penis is, and failing miserably.

Too bad we had to end our trip on that note…  We did bring home some nice stuff, though, and hope that during our next visit, we will see and do more.  Really, though, Ribeauvillé feels like another home by now.  It’s great to go there on a long weekend and just have some different food and a change of scenery.  Not only is a beautiful area with a different vibe, but it’s so easy to get there and doesn’t take all day to reach.  We are able to make it in under three hours and a round trip uses about half a tank of gas.

Yannick, once again, reminded me to text or email next time we visit so he can be spared paying a commission to Booking.com and we’ll get a special rate.  I don’t know when we’ll go back to Alsace, but I do know it makes for a convenient first stop into France.  It could be sooner rather than later.

We drove home yesterday in the driving rain and I couldn’t help but notice that the rivers that flow through the Black Forest were very high and even flooding in some areas.  I got a few shots during our drive.

Look carefully and you can see the brown water.  If we were living in that area, I might be a little scared.

Anyway… I wish we could have done more exciting things on this trip, but it was great to get away for a few days.  Next trip with the dogs, we’ll be sure to stay in a more rural locale.  Luckily, there are plenty of places like that in Europe.

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Alsace

Ribeauvillé trois… Pt. 2

Friday morning, after a delightful breakfast of fresh croissants, an egg, coffee, and juice, we decided to visit the little hamlet of Hunawihr.  I read that Hunawihr is considered one of France’s most beautiful villages, much like Riquewihr is.  We’ve been to Riquewihr several times, so we didn’t visit there during our latest visit.

A couple of shots of the view near where we were staying in Ribeauville.

 

Hunawihr is not even two miles from Ribeauville.  On a nice day, you could easily walk there and then onward to Riquewihr.  As it turns out, the village is small and residential, but well worth strolling though.  There are some lovely views of vineyards and several places sell wines and offer tastings.  I also noticed a couple of restaurants.  During the warmer months, you can visit the butterfly gardens.  There is also an animal park and aquarium located there.  We just missed the end of the 2017 season, which concluded on November 4th.

Below are some pictures of Hunawihr.  We weren’t able to stay long because it was starting to rain.

Bill checks out the people from Hunawihr who died at war.

 

Grape vines in the fall!

It would be hard to get lost in Hunawihr, but here’s a map anyway.

After our short visit to Hunawihr, we walked around Ribeauvillé in search of lunch.  I took some more photos of the town, which remains picturesque every time we visit.  Unfortunately, every time we go to Ribeauvillé, the weather is kind of crappy.  I guess it would help if we went during the spring or summer instead of November, January, and February.  Still, even when it’s cloudy, it’s a very cute town.  I prefer it to touristy Riquewihr, which always seems to be teeming with visitors even when the weather is poor.

Fresh game perhaps?

At the very least, you can always count on the availability of good food…

The pastries are worth stopping for.

We were determined to try different restaurants during this visit and we succeeded.  For Friday’s lunch, we visited S’Garwer Stub.  This restaurant on the main drag through Ribeauvillé is usually packed.  Having visited there, I can see why.  The food is good and the dining room is positively tiny.

We were squeezed into a back corner.

A lovely bottle of red…

Bill had some kind of meat pie.  It was a pastry stuffed with ham.  Actually, if I’m honest, it reminded me a little of Spam.  When I was in kindergarten, I went to a British school and they served something similar for lunch.  As you can see, it came with plenty of salad.

I went with Quiche Lorraine.  It was pretty good– better than the last quiche I had back in February, but not quite as good as the Quiche Lorraine I had at nearby Chez Martine in January.  

For dessert, Bill had the Tart de la Maison– it was kind of like cherry cheesecake… 

I went with creme brûlée.  

We were pretty full after lunch, so we walked around a little bit more and then went back to the apartment.  Bill turned on the TV and we watched some pretty horrible French reality shows.

Hard to believe one can watch this just a couple of hours away from Stuttgart.

We weren’t all that hungry when it was dinner time, but I was determined to keep trying restaurants.  So we ventured to another tiny Winstub

I had been curious about this place, which appears to be very quaint from the outside.  Step indoors and, sure enough, you will be greeted by a tiny but adorable interior.

 

Once again, we ended up sharing a table because we didn’t have reservations.  Three French guys with big appetites sat with us.  I kind of got the sense they were kind of making fun of us until I reacted to the size of some of their dishes…

I had a zander filet.  It came with loads of sauerkraut, butter sauce, sweet potatoes and other root vegetables, and contemptible mushrooms.  Fortunately, Bill was kind enough to remove them for me.  It’s good that I didn’t order the steak, because one of the guys at our table did and it was loaded with mushrooms.  Blecch!  The fish was okay, but I probably wouldn’t order it again.

Bill had pork cheeks, which came with a sausage.  I probably should have had what he had.  It was really good.  The pork cheeks were flavorful and tender and there was no fungus on the plate.

Then we had dessert.  Bill had what amounted to French toast served with gingerbread liqueur and gingerbread ice cream.   

I had chocolate mousse.  The way this was served reminded me a little of liver pate.  Fortunately, it tasted good.  

To be honest, I wasn’t all that impressed with the food at Winstub Pfifferhus.  The interior is very cute, though, and it was kind of fun to watch the French guys dig in to their three course meals.  I think Bill and I have gotten to the age at which it doesn’t take much to satisfy us and keep us fat.  We went to bed early, only to be awakened at about 3:00am by our dog, Zane, who needed a potty break.

One bad thing about the apartment we rented is that it’s in a built up area and not that close to a place where a dog can pee in peace.  For some reason, our dogs reacted a lot to the smells in Ribeauvillé and started baying.  Now… we hate it as much as anyone does when the dogs get excited and make a lot of noise, especially in the middle of the night.  However, it’s not always easy to predict when this will happen and, when it does, it’s pretty hard to shut them up.  It can seem like the longest minutes of the day when the dogs go off, especially in the wee hours of the morning…

Anyway, Bill brought them back inside and all was well until later on Saturday.  Tune in next time for that story.

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