BeNeLux, Luxury

A massive lodging upgrade in The Netherlands… (part six)

We arrived in the village of Nistelrode, North Brabant in The Netherlands at some point around lunchtime. Because we didn’t know much about the policies at our next stop, we decided to have lunch at a little restaurant in Nistelrode called De Eeterij (The Eatery). It was pretty novel, because it had its own parking lot with free parking!

We went into the place and had a rather large lunch, coupled with tiny Dutch beers. Seriously, it was interesting to come from Belgium to The Netherlands, where draft beers are served in much smaller glasses. But it’s probably just as well, since I ended up drinking Heineken. I used to like Heineken when I was younger and less of a beer snob. Now, I find it pretty skunky.

I had spare ribs with fabulous frites. Bill had chicken satay, which seemed to be a common offering in The Netherlands. The only thing that would have made my dish better, is if they’d offered ketchup for the fries, instead of mayo. I remember in the early 90s, meeting a Belgian guy who played tuba for the “Boogie Band” at Busch Gardens. He ate mayo with his fries, and everyone thought it was so weird! Of course, over here, a lot of people think eating ketchup is weird. I will admit, it does have a lot of sugar… but if you grew up on it, it’s definitely a comfort!

I was amused by the faucets in the bathrooms. They had installed what looked like Heineken beer taps as faucets! However, the rest of the bathroom looked like it could use refurbishing. A new toilet seat would be a step up, at the very least.

Bill went to pay the check, but his Visa cards didn’t work. It turns out that many businesses in The Netherlands don’t take Visa. They prefer MasterCard. Fortunately, he had enough euros to pay for the meal. The lady who took the money asked him if he was sure when he told her to keep the change (about 2,50). Tipping doesn’t seem to be a big thing in The Netherlands.

After we ate, it was closer to the customary check in time. We decided to head to our next lodging, the magnificent golfing resort called The Duke Suites. I found this wonderful spot on Facebook, of all places. I got an ad for it while I was looking for places for us to stay for our anniversary. Although Bill and I are not interested in golf at all, I was intrigued by how beautiful the place looked. It appeared to be a perfect spot for a short (and expensive) rest.

I sent a booking request weeks ago, and it was promptly answered. I didn’t even have to submit a credit card, although the rate was a princely 550 euros per night– more than the monthly rent on my first US based apartment. But, for that, we got a gorgeous room, butler service, included minibar, and a bathroom a person could live in.

A couple of days before we arrived at The Duke Suites, I got an email asking for final details, such as when we would be arriving. I had also booked us a couples’ massage in their spa, and The Charles Experience, which is a six course tasting menu in their restaurant, offered only from Wednesday to Saturday each week. It was lucky that our anniversary fell on Saturday. The email also had instructions about what to do when we arrived. We pulled up to the covered area by the entrance and were met by Marco, who was our butler for most of our stay.

Bill and I are not fancy people, but we do like to splurge sometimes. We once stayed in another golf property, in Hilton Head, South Carolina, back in February 2012. I remember it distinctly, because it was when Whitney Houston died, and she was all over the news. That property also offered butlers, but I don’t remember them doing anything but checking us in. The room we stayed in was beautiful, but it was very much an American resort in Hilton Head, South Carolina. The experience we had at The Duke Suites was very different… and vastly superior.

Marco offered us coffee, tea, or champagne. We had some champagne, since it was our anniversary, and because I am a lush. He showed us our room, explained almost everything (he forgot to tell us the bed was adjustable), and left us there, mouths agape, as we took in the absolutely beautiful accommodations. Then he offered us more champagne, which we declined, since we would be having a lot of wine at dinner. Below are some photos:

We’ve stayed in some very beautiful hotels, but this one just might be in a class by itself. There were very few people there during our stay, so we pretty much got the place to ourselves. The staff was absolutely wonderful and low key. We never felt awkward or weird, even though we aren’t used to such great service.

After a couple of hours of enjoying the much improved lodging, it was time for dinner. We got showered and changed and called Marco, who escorted us to The Charles Restaurant, which is the club’s “fancy” restaurant in the Clubhouse. The Clubhouse is actually in another building, but The Duke Suites and the Clubhouse are connected by an underground tunnel that make them seem like the same building. If you look at the buildings from the outside, you don’t know that they’re linked, and when you are moving between them, it doesn’t seem like they’re separate. But we later found out that the Clubhouse has been around longer than The Duke Suites. After a couple of days, we realized that a lot of people go there to make business deals. 😉

The Charles Restaurant was a wonderful treat, and to be honest, I don’t know if I can name everything we ate. They did give us cards with the names of the food… You can see it all below. Dinner went on for four hours, but each course was small, so we weren’t stuffed. I think there were three or four other couples there besides us. Fortunately, some of the staff spoke English, so they could describe everything. The only low point of the meal was the foie gras… but I understand that some people love it. Bill opted for a cheese course instead of dessert.

The price for The Charles Experience with wine was 300 euros for both of us. It was expensive, but not the most expensive meal we’ve ever had. And I’m really glad we got to try it, because they even gave us a little cake for our anniversary, which we enjoyed the next day. There was also a little glass of fruit cocktail waiting for us at our bedsides each night… We were way too full to eat it on Saturday night, but it made a nice prelude before breakfast on Sunday.

To say we were delighted by The Duke Suites’ first impressions is an understatement. It really was wonderful. More on how wonderful it was in the next post!

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Rhein

Another amazing eating experience at Pizarro Fine Dining…

Some readers may recall that on March 16 of this year, Bill and I discovered Pizarro Fine Dining in Groß-Gerau, a nice town kind of near Darmstadt. On St. Patrick’s Day, I wrote about our “five hours of foodie decadence.” We had such a good time in March, we decided to go back to Pizarro Fine Dining again last night, as we were being smoked out of our table at the weekly market.

We stopped for a selfie… it’s a nice one, if I do say so myself!

We arrived in Groß-Gerau a bit early, so we decided to take a short walk around the town. The weather was beautiful, and lots of people were out enjoying the sun, pleasant temperatures, and bustling restaurants. We noticed the city is replacing its main drag with an attractive looking roadway. I’m not sure if Groß-Gerau is a tourist destination, but it looked like the powers that be are working to make the town more attractive to visitors and residents. Below are a few photos from our pre-dinner walk.

Last night’s experience at Pizarro’s was just as excellent as the first time. The main difference, besides a mostly different menu, was that there were fewer fellow diners, and the staff recognized us as we approached at 6:45 PM. There was one lone man dining, and a table of four– two German couples– already seated. We were offered a table next to the chef’s table, so it was easy for us to watch him work.

Once again, we had the choice between alcoholic and non-alcoholic wine pairings or choosing a beverage. We chose to do the wine pairing with most of the courses. Since Bill was driving, he went with the non-alcoholic pairing. I choose the alcoholic version. I noticed the other tables ordered bottles of wine. Once again, the emphasis of last night’s meal was very fresh seafood, with Peruvian-Asian fusion flavors. Below are photos of the menus. One has the alcoholic wine pairing, and the other has the non-alcoholic pairing.

Besides the excellent, fresh, inventive small plates we had last night, I was also enjoying the music. I found myself repeatedly Shazaming the Chef Pizarro’s playlist. He had a very eclectic variety of songs playing– everything from Latin to classic R&B. Meanwhile, he brought out course after course… and because there were only three tables, the pace was a little bit faster than it was the first time we visited. Below are photos from last night’s delightful repast.

The very first snack– smoked trout with a sweet jelly and sprinkled with hibiscus. It looks like a shortbread cookie sandwich, but actually it was soft bread.

Once again, we had the optional Wagyu beef for 25 euros a person. Once again, it was incredible! However, the first time we visited, back in March, we had a different cut that wasn’t quite as tender as last night’s was. Chef Pizarro told us the beef last night was from a filet, while last time we had a piece of loin. The difference was noticeable. I could have easily cut last night’s beef with a spoon. It was exquisitely marbled and practically melted in the mouth. I had mine without the truffles– just some of the sauce with a sprinkling of crispy Jerusalem artichokes, which were very tasty.

Chef Pizarro said he includes the Hamachi every time because he loves it. I have to confess, I love it, too. It’s served with chopsticks and special spoons from Peru, and I believe the herbs even have healing qualities.

By the end of dinner, we were very satisfied, but not stuffed. I also wasn’t drunk, as dinner took about four hours. But it was not a boring time, as everyone seemed to be enjoying everything at a relaxed pace.

I really like the unique style at Pizarro Fine Dining. Everyone gets the same thing, and there’s just one seating. You have to reserve ahead of time, and when you do that, you get a reminder of how much it will cost. Last night’s dinner was 125 euros per person, without any of the extras. As long as you can accept what is on the menu and let the chef drive, you’re in for quite an experience. It’s definitely for fish lovers, which I am!

I asked last night if they ever had trouble with people trying to come in, and asking for a table without a reservation. The waiter showed us that the door is kept locked from the outside. I noticed a few people passing by, watching through the window at what the chef was doing. I wonder if they are curious about this place, which doesn’t really operate like most restaurants, but is definitely a great experience for the adventurous.

I also explained to the chef why Americans are so big on tipping, after he complained about US food prices and the demand for 20 percent tips. I told him about how, in many states, wait staff only gets a couple of bucks an hour. They rely on tips. Unfortunately, that emphasis on tipping has kind of ruined dining out in America… at least in my opinion. I used to wait tables myself, so I understand why tipping is so emphasized in the United States. But that practice has made servers very fixated on money and turning tables, rather than letting people enjoy their meals at a relaxed pace. Apparently, the chef didn’t know this about the USA. It was my experience when I waited tables in Williamsburg, Virginia, that a lot of Europeans didn’t understand the US tipping culture. I don’t think a lot of Americans necessarily do, either. I didn’t know how little wait staff is paid until I, too, did that work.

Chef Pizarro told us that he went to college in Michigan, but he’s from Peru. He later married a German woman. That’s why we’re lucky to have him in Germany.

All of my experiences dining out in Germany came in handy last night. At one point, the waiter was telling us about Steinbutt, which he thought was maybe like halibut. The chef corrected him that it wasn’t halibut, but from the same family. I said, “Turbot?” That turned out to be correct! I know some German restaurant language, after all!

As we were leaving last night, we thanked the chef and his assistant for the wonderful meal… and we assured him we’ll be back, if he’ll have us again! I think I’d really like to try one of the other experiences he offers, like the Champagne Matinee, which is a brunch served monthly. Or maybe we’ll try one of his themed kitchen parties! Yes, it was a bit spendy– last night we paid close to 500 euros. But the experience is so unique and personal, and I swear, it was some of the freshest fish I’ve ever had here.

Bill and I have been so very fortunate to get to try so many wonderful restaurants in Europe. We are truly blessed to be here… Last night’s experience at Chef Pizarro’s table was yet another reminder of that.

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Breaking boundaries at Five in Stuttgart…

Yesterday, Bill and I celebrated our 13th wedding anniversary.  Since 13 is a quirky number, I decided to find us a quirky restaurant.  I found it when I booked at table at Five.  No, I am not referring to the time at which I reserved.  The restaurant, which has a Michelin Star, is called Five.   I found the place on opentable.de, and decided to book it when I noticed the stellar reviews on TripAdvisor and OpenTable, as well as the super imaginative Web site.  Well, actually, Bill was more into the Web site than I was.  He gets off on artsy stuff and science fiction movies like Blade Runner.

I snapped this photo before we left… I don’t know how he does it, but Bill makes me smile so pretty.  I usually smirk in my selfies because when I smile, it doesn’t look real.  But when Bill is in the photo, no problem!

Anyway, we battled Stuttgart traffic to make our seven o’clock reservation at the downtown restaurant.  We were warmly greeted by a young, casually dressed man at the door.

The front door.  Directly across the street is a huge parking garage that is open 24 hours.

He invited us to take a look at the bar area while he alerted the wait staff of our arrival.  It turned out we had the first reservation, so he was back quickly. Too bad, because the bar area at Five is really cool looking.  It’s dimly lit, with wooden tables and comfortable chairs everywhere, along with chilled out music on the sound system.  I’m pretty sure they serve light fare there, but again, I didn’t have a chance to check it out too thoroughly.

We climbed a flight of stairs to the restaurant, which was slightly brighter and quieter, but still decorated with an interesting mural that included a nude depiction of a woman’s body.  Seated at a thick wooden table with a rough surface (which Bill said almost gave him a splinter), we gazed around at how the room was decorated.  If you’re into visuals, Five offers a feast for the eyes.  From my seat, I had a good view of the kitchen, which was enclosed with glass so clear I couldn’t even tell it was there… except for seeing one of the staff cleaning it before dinner got started.

The view from our table.  As you can see, the kitchen is easy to observe.  I was enjoying an introductory glass of champagne, which was served in a wine glass rather than a flute.

 

We were taken care of by a man and a woman, both of whom spoke English.  They were handling the whole dining room, though at 7:00, we were the only ones there.  By the time we left three hours later, several other tables were occupied, though the restaurant was not full.  My guess is that it gets a lot more business on the weekends.

Obligatory Bill shot for all his fans.

 

The female server explained to us that we could either order off the menu or do a surprise tasting menu.  Although I tend to be very picky about some things, Bill is more adventurous.  He wanted to try the surprise tasting menu with a wine pairing.  I agreed to be brave.  We told the waitress the foods we absolutely can’t do.  For me, it’s mushrooms.  For Bill, it’s liver or other exotic organ meats (and I wouldn’t want those, either… yecch!).  Also, since Bill was driving, they gave him half pours of the wines.  We also ordered a bottle of sparkling water.  I noticed that both servers wore black gloves when they presented the food.

This was the amuse, which was not part of the four course tasting menu we chose.  It looks like an egg, but actually, it’s not…  The green base is leek soup.  The “yolk” is made of mascarpone cheese, and the white is a different cheese.  It’s garnished with a little ham, some sprouts, and a cracker.  Bill loves cheese, but I’m very particular.  Nevertheless, I took a deep breath and enjoyed this.  I definitely loved the artistic presentation.

When we were finished with the “egg” that wasn’t an egg, out came the first course… which also was a challenge for me because it included more cheese…   As this was being served, I told the male server that I don’t do mushrooms or truffles.  He gave me a horrified look and said, “Not even truffles?”  Ha ha ha.  I wish I could eat them, but I can’t.  I will happily eat turkey corpse, though…  😉

The two whitish half discs in the center of the bowl are sheep’s milk cheese.  They are surrounded with beet root and topped with crackers seasoned with pink pepper.  Bill’s version included mushroom juice.  Sheep’s milk cheese is usually not something I enjoy, but this was very mild and not at all offensive.  And the beets, while usually too earthy for me, were kind of sweet.  The color definitely added to the visual presentation.  I managed half of the cheese and let Bill finish it, since he’s an aficionado.  

 

Next came the bread.  It was very fresh and served with butter infused with walnuts and an eggplant spread.  Bill like the eggplant spread.  I couldn’t really taste it, though I did think the gilded walnut butter was nice.

I really enjoyed the second course.  This was a langostino served with fennel salad and Belgian endive.  They drizzled date syrup over it, which really played beautifully with the slight tanginess of the endive.  And, of course, the shrimp was perfectly cooked.  This was paired with a local Riesling from the Keller vintner.  We really liked the wine and will be looking for a bottle of it soon.  

We had a slight problem with the next course, which consisted of sweet potatoes, pistachio syrup, bacon, and what appeared to be mushrooms.  As I have mentioned so many times, I can’t do mushrooms at all.  It took a few minutes to get the server’s attention, and at first, she explained that they weren’t mushrooms but were kind of like them.  Then she said they weren’t earthy.  I tried to eat one, but couldn’t… So she brought out another version of the same dish without the fungus.  I was able to finish that and enjoyed it.  The pistachio syrup seemed to be infused with citrus, which set off the sweet and starchy qualities of the sweet potatoes.  The salt in the bacon also cut the sweetness a bit.  I don’t usually like sweet potatoes that much, but I enjoyed this.  Later, the server explained that they had sneaked in mushrooms with the first version and she apologized.  Bill loves mushrooms, so none of this was an issue for him. We had another Riesling with this course, this time from the Mosel Valley.  It was more of a semi-sweet wine.  Again, it paired very well.

 

It was finally time for the main course.  We knew we were getting different items, since they laid down different silverware for us and we got different wines.  For Bill, they poured a lovely red from the Rhone Valley.  I knew he was going to love that, since he loves red wines from southern France.  For me, they poured an Austrian chardonnay.  I had just been talking about how I like my whites with a little kick.  But when they poured a chardonnay, I knew I was going to be having fish…

And I was right.  The server said the fish was called “kalt” fish, or something that sounds like it.  She said it was similar to cod.  Having tasted it, I would swear it was sea bass, which happens to be one of my favorite fishes!  This was served with wilted greens, artichoke, potato puree, and a sauce made from potato peels.  I think this was my favorite course.  It was delicious.  And whether or not I was eating sea bass, this was sinfully buttery and delicate.  

Bill was served venison, which came with mushrooms and sauce made from blackberries.  I didn’t taste Bill’s main course because I’m not a big fan of venison.  He loved it, though.  

The above photo is of what they called “pre dessert”, which I think was a palate cleanser.  The star tasted like vanilla ice cream infused with cardamom.  It was paired with apple puree and nuts.  The dots around the star were what they called “hot wine”, though it wasn’t hot.  I liked it… not only was it creatively presented, but it reminded me of apple pie a la mode and was perfect for the fall…

Another obligatory shot of Bill drinking wine…

Finally, we had dessert.  Pictured above is a plum pudding with discs of hazelnut ice cream, chocolate “air” (think Aero candy bars), and drizzled in a plum syrup.  Again, imaginative, creative, and not a lava cake!  It was the perfect ending, paired with a dessert wine from Austria that had the essence of roses.  

We were presented with this little platter of housemade candies just before we asked for the check.  I commented to Bill that in America, no one would ever present food sitting on a tray of rocks.  They’d be too afraid someone would think the rocks were candy!  Lawsuit time!  But here in Germany, people are expected to be able to tell a rock from a Jordan almond and not break their teeth…  I find that refreshing!

As we were finishing up, the restaurant grew louder.  Lots of people were in the bar area, including one woman who seemed to have a really bad case of laryngitis, yet was chattering loudly and incessantly.  Listening to her talk from all the way down in the bar and sounding like she needed complete vocal rest, I quipped that perhaps they should hand out ballgags to go with the rather unorthodox environment at Five.  I’m kidding, of course, but do want to point out that if you’re looking for a quiet, romantic restaurant, Five may not be your venue.  It does get rather noisy.  Also, it’s definitely not a kid friendly kind of place.  I noticed that many of the other diners in the restaurant were somewhat alternative looking, which I thought was very intriguing.  By alternative, I mean they appeared to be somewhat young and sexy, not stodgy, formal, or curmudgeonly.  Five has a youthful, upwardly mobile, ortherwordly kind of feel.

Our bill came to 282 euros before tip and they do take credit cards.  Although it’s been awhile since we last spent that much on a meal, we did enjoy dining at Five.  The surprise menu concept is always risky for me, but I have to admit, it was rather successful last night, even with the mushroom incident.  Bill loved the feel of Five.  I tend to enjoy more traditional kinds of places, but I would certainly not be averse to coming back to Five.  The service is friendly and competent and the food is exquisite.  Besides, everybody needs to venture out of their comfort zones once in awhile.  I’m proud to say that, more than Bill, I did that last night.  Eating cheese and enjoying it was in and of itself a thrill!  If you’re up for a culinary adventure and have lots of money to spend, I recommend Five.  They made our 13th anniversary memorable.

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