Yeah… the AI picture is pretty much what it looked like.
Bill and I have now spent over half our marriage living in Germany. He spent three years here as a young lieutenant in the 1980s. Then, we moved here in 2007 for two more years. Then, we came back in 2014, and have been living in Germany ever since. We’ve also visited Germany on vacations, when we weren’t living here.
The one thing I don’t think I’ll ever get used to is the German “stare”. It’s a phenomenon I’ve experienced more times than I could ever count.
The German stare isn’t like your garden variety stare. It’s a certain look of disapproval. Sometimes it’s subtle, like a quiet side eye. Sometimes, it’s very obvious. Sometimes it’s silent. Sometimes it’s delivered with a stern dressing down.
It always amazes me that some people feel perfectly fine about conspicuously staring at what other people are doing, looking on in disdain, or even feeling like they have the right to “speak” to a perfect stranger who is just going about their business and wants to be left alone. But this this is a fact of life in Germany… which doesn’t mean I dislike living here. It’s just something I feel like writing about today, as I wait for the laundry to finish drying.
I’m prompted to write about the German stare this morning because of something that happened yesterday, as I was walking Noyzi and Charlie. If you follow my other blog, you might know that yesterday’s post was a song parody. And while the song parody is basically just an old pop song with new lyrics about Trump’s flatulence, it still took me awhile to create it and turn it into a video.
I make music videos for fun, and as a way to express myself creatively. Sometimes, I actually feel compelled to write song parodies. They help me cope. But they take a lot of work, and significant time, and because of that, yesterday, I was walking the dogs later in the morning.
The Dorfplatz was busier than usual, as the dogs and I walked down the hill from Am Rathaus. Several people were sitting there, enjoying our town’s central meeting spot. There was a woman with a small child, another woman with a baby in a pram, and an elderly lady with a cane. I walked past them on my normal 15 minute route.
Less than a minute after we passed the ladies in the Dorfplatz, Noyzi suddenly decided to crouch in “dump” position. He dropped a big pile of crap on the side of the street.
As Noyzi was pooping, a man in a black SUV was approaching in the opposite direction. He obviously noticed Noyzi’s activity and STOPPED his car to rubberneck. I glared at him as I pulled a bright red shit bag out of my pocket, so I could clean up the pile of excrement.
As I opened the bag and bent over to pick up Noyzi’s deposit, the man sped off. Meanwhile, the elderly lady who had been in the Dorfplatz started yelling something at me. I could tell she was talking about the dogs, and it sounded like she was asking a question.
Unfortunately for her, I was in no mood for chatter, and I suspected she was concerned about having to share the sidewalk with us. I quickly picked up the poop and scurried off ahead of her. I didn’t want to cross the street or hinder, or be hindered, by her.
On the way back through the Dorfplatz, I dropped the sack of crap into a public trashcan. The walk was soon completed, and I temporarily put the incident out of my mind.
While I was chatting with Bill after dinner last night, I decided to do a Google search to see if other people had posted about this phenomenon… the German stare… which I definitely received from the guy in the SUV. I typed the following search string:
“german stopped his car when my dog pooped”
Google now has AI in its search bar, and my query prompted AI to give me an answer. I have to admit, it was an amusing exchange:
Well… yeah, nobody likes to step in dog poop. But why would you automatically take it upon yourself to police a total stranger? Especially when you’re driving?
I was intrigued by this exchange with AI, so I responded again.
“he moved on when I pulled out a bag and gave him a dirty look”
Yeah… but why did he feel like it was right and proper to just stop in the middle of the street, perhaps inconveniencing other people? Was it really that earth shattering to make sure I cleaned up after Noyzi?
And what if I didn’t clean up the mess? Was he going to get out of the car and yell at me? Would he roll down the window and chastise me? Call the Polizei, maybe? Obviously, what I was doing was VERY important to this dude. But to me, his sudden attention was creepy, weird, and most unwelcome.
I responded again with this:
“It was silent.”
AI gratified me by reassuring me that I did the right thing…
He didn’t “force” me to do anything, though. It’s my habit to clean up my dogs’ messes. He prompted me to look at him with extreme irritation.
I gave AI another response:
“I live in Germany.”
AI made another response, full of assumptions about the conditions of my life here.
They aren’t “trying” to be rude, but it IS kind of rude to assume someone might not clean up after their dogs. On the other hand, I have seen plenty of evidence that a lot of people don’t clean up their dogs’ shit. 🤷♀️
I ended the “chat” with AI with this:
“it definitely wasn’t my first time being stared at.”
AI, once again, complimented and edified me, congratulating me on my “thick skin”. Yeah, my skin is thick with adipose, but I’ll always find the “German stare” impolite and annoying… and I will respond accordingly, because I’m childish that way…
Again, another assumption. I don’t think I’ll ever “get used to” the monitoring. I do find it irritating. But I understand that’s just how life is here, and I’ll never change it.
At that point, I decided I was bored with my exchange with Google AI about cleaning up dog shit. However, that exchange made me realize why some people see AI as a friend they’ve never had. It’s weird to be having that kind of an exchange with my computer, with it reassuring me and teaching me about a place I’ve lived in for years, now. AI could be your best friend or worst enemy, I suppose.
I often think back on my life and realize that when I was born, The Brady Bunch was still in its first prime time run on ABC. Now, in my 54th year of life, I’m having conversations with artificial intelligence on my iPad, and it’s telling me about German laws.
As the man in the 90s used to sing, “How Bizarre!”
I guess this dates me, too…
Also… Facebook memories tells me that this same thing happened on September 1 five years ago…
Yup. Maybe it’s a seasonal thing. I do remember, in this case, taking my time cleaning it up, so she’d be forced to linger longer. What can I say? Sometimes, I’m pretty petty. 😈
Ah well… maybe today’s walk will be less obnoxious. On the way back home, I had to wait for several cars to pass before I could cross the street. And this is in our little village, which has no stop lights. But at least no one showed me their penis. So that’s a plus…
Friday, June 26th, was Bill’s last day of in person classes for the summer session at the C.G. Jung Institute. He would be spending the entire day in a seminar, with a smaller group of students. Meanwhile, I was going to do what I’d been doing all week… sitting by the lake. 😁
We went down to breakfast, and I decided to try something that wasn’t an egg dish. I went for French toast. We were met at the restaurant by a familiar face… the same guy who was running breakfast in the Stübli last fall. I noticed he gave us power shots made with beet juice. This was something I remember he did in the fall, but Friday was the first time we had power shots during our most recent visit to the Sonne Seehotel.
I don’t usually like beets, but this was pretty good.The French toast was very good. I just wish it had been a little bit bigger.
As for Bill, I think he might have had another serving of the Arme Ritter, which he said was his favorite breakfast item all week. I, of course, would not touch it, because it included truffles. But we had the usual etagè, bread, juice, water, coffee, etc., as well.
Because I’d made a habit out of skipping lunches, I did miss the protein from the eggs, later on in the day. That’s the only reason I’d wish for a slightly larger portion of French toast. What I got was only about three bites worth, which seems a bit strange, given the size of the egg dishes. However, the French toast was delicious and expertly prepared.
After Bill went to class and I did my usual writing, I went down to the lake. There was a middle aged couple there, and a younger woman in a bikini. I thought they were together, because the young woman was lying on a lounger on the same row of four loungers with them. She had dumped a bunch of her stuff on the one lounger that wasn’t occupied.
I was a little disappointed, since the staff had removed the umbrellas and there was a lack of shaded loungers. As a very light colored person, I burn easily in the sun. But, they were there first, and fair is fair. I moved an unoccupied lounger closer to a chestnut tree and took a seat. The canvas barrier was still up, because there was a wedding taking place at the hotel later. That made the garden a bit crowded with lounge chairs, most of which had no shade cover.
After a little while, the young woman got up from her shady spot, and moved to a lounger in the sun, still leaving her stuff on the other two loungers she had occupied. I tried to ignore the inconsideration as I looked on… reminded of people who show up early to the pools on cruise ships and mark their territory with books, towels, clothes, etc. Then, they go do their thing, and other guests feel like they can’t use the otherwise unused lounger in a prime spot.
At one point, the woman got up and left, but her stuff was still on three loungers. I was feeling pretty annoyed, but more on behalf of other people who wouldn’t be able to find shade. By that point, the sun had moved, and my lounger was in a shady spot. I also had a better view of the windows of my room, which made it easier to tell when the housekeeper had been there. I could see if the window looked different from where I was sitting.
The couple, who were there when I arrived, were still occupying two other shaded loungers. The man got up and left, leaving his attractive blonde wife sitting there alone. After about a half hour or so, she said, “Excuse me. Are you going to be sitting out here for much longer?”
I said, “I’m just waiting for housekeeping to clean my room.”
She smiled and said, in an accent that sounded vaguely British, but was probably continental European, “That other lady asked me to watch her things, but we’ve checked out of the hotel, and we have to leave.”
My eyes widened and I said, “You mean she’s not with you?”
The lady shook her head and said, “No. She said she’d be right back, and asked if I’d mind her belongings because she’s already checked out of the hotel. But I have to go, myself.”
Not really wanting to be saddled with the responsibility of watching some strange entitled woman’s stuff, but still feeling kind of bad for the kind woman who had done her a favor, I said “Well, I don’t think anyone will mess with her things.”
I had been watching all week, and noticed that the garden generally wasn’t occupied by anyone who didn’t belong there. I’d seen people’s stuff left out there, completely unbothered, for hours. I’m not saying that I would confidently leave my own stuff there, but I had a feeling the entitled lady’s stuff would be okay.
We chatted for a few more minutes, and she mentioned the wedding that was taking place at the hotel, which made me glad we were leaving on Saturday, instead of Sunday. Finally, she said goodbye, and I sat there for a few more minutes alone before the entitled lady reappeared. She was wearing a dress and a big smile.
“Oh… thank you so much for watching my stuff!” she said, in European accented English.
I kind of nodded at her, because at no point had I told anyone that I was accepting responsibility for watching this weird lady’s bags. Furthermore, I was pretty irritated by her incredible sense of entitlement, and complete lack of consideration for other people.
I didn’t want to get into an altercation with this strange woman, so I didn’t tell her what I was thinking. Instead, I took a short dip in the lake… you know, to cool off. 🙄🤬
More time passed, and a couple more people showed up. They took the loungers vacated by the first couple. Soon, late morning turned into early afternoon. The garden filled up with people hoping to escape the heat of their hotel rooms. The entitled lady, stripped back down to a bikini, continued to sit on her lounger, working on her laptop computer. Her stuff was still strewn on two other loungers, one of which was in prime real estate for shade.
I heard an American accented man enter the garden, accompanied by one of the hotel’s receptionists. He had his wife and two daughters with him. They looked like they were probably of Italian descent. None of them were dressed for swimming, but obviously, they were too early to check into the hotel.
The man said, laughing, “This is where they bring you the Piña Coladas…”
Obviously, he was joking, but the receptionist must have thought he was serious, because he said “No, no one will bring you drinks here. You must go to the Biergarten.”
Meanwhile, the man’s wife was looking rather uncomfortable. She kept walking around. I didn’t know if maybe she was uncomfortable because of the lack of shade, or because she just felt unsettled, in general.
The family awkwardly sat there for a short while, but then abruptly left the garden. A few minutes later, the two teen girls with the older couple reappeared. Both girls were wearing bathing suits.
It was at that point that the entitled lady turned to me, a big, friendly smile on her face, and said completely shamelessly, “Hey… would you mind sharing your WiFi password with me? Mine doesn’t work anymore.” She paused for a moment, clearly realizing that it’s weird to ask strangers to share their password, and added “Or is that not okay?”
I told her the truth, which was “Actually, I’m not using WiFi.” And I wasn’t. I was using cell service from an eSim that I bought for my tablet.
She smiled sheepishly, and went into the lake. I looked up at the window for my hotel room, noticed the shade was pulled, and decided I’d had quite enough of her bullshit. I packed up my stuff and left, marveling at that woman’s nerve. Clearly, she’s used to manipulating people into doing her bidding, and taking advantage of most people’s kindness. Fuck that!
As I was leaving, the American wife had returned, dressed in an expensive looking cover up. I gave her a smile, and she smiled back. Hopefully, the entitled loser didn’t con her out of her WiFi password. 🤬
***
I went back into the room to wait for Bill. The housekeeper had drawn the shades on all the windows, which kept out some of the sun. I decided to take a couple of photos of the steps one must climb to get in and out of our junior suite. Again… this is not the best room for people with mobility issues. No joke– I think Bill and I are getting to a point at which these kinds of steps might be problematic for us! But… it is an old hotel, and the building is historic…
I wondered if anyone had faceplanted on these…I’m sure at least one person has tripped and gone down face first.
When Bill got back from his class, we decided to have dinner at the Pavilion Restaurant, rather than look for something in town. That turned out to be a good choice for a few reasons. Again, because I knew there was a wedding party going on, we decided to go down there early. It was at that point that another weird situation developed.
***
I put on my trusty blue dress, and Bill gussied up a little bit with a clean t-shirt. 🤭 It wasn’t really necessary to dress nicely, but all week, I’d noticed the well-to-do clientele at the hotel. So many of the women wore cute dresses and expensive shoes. I didn’t want to look like a slob… although that might be a lost cause.
Bill and I greeted the same waiter who had laughed at me on Sunday afternoon, when we first arrived at the hotel. Just before we sat down to our first meal there– which happened to be a late lunch– I had grumped at Bill that I needed to pee. The waiter had overheard it, laughed uproariously, and pointed me in the direction of the restroom, where there were four little girls already in there, completely occupying the space. I felt like I was watching a clown car, as the four of them tumbled out of the bathroom. I remember saying, “Anybody else?” before I took my turn.
That guy hadn’t waited on us on Sunday. Instead, his colleague did. The colleague bore a striking resemblance to Prince William, the Prince of Wales. The other guy, also tall and balding, had a slightly less refined appearance. For dinner on Friday night, he greeted us with gusto, and invited to sit down.
I took a seat on the vinyl upholstered bench, obviously custom made for the restaurant. It probably cost a lot of money. I liked it for its lack of armrests, so my wide hips could be free. 😏 Our waiter brought us gin & tonics made with Hendrick’s gin, and garnished with cucumber and black pepper.
We started looking at the menu, when all of a sudden, I heard a male voice say, in an obviously angry tone, “Your nipple. NIPPLE!” He growled something else at her that I didn’t quite catch.
That’s not the kind of thing one usually hears in a nice restaurant, so I looked up to see who had said it. I saw a middle aged man with slightly long, dark, wavy hair. He wore sunglasses, a black polo type shirt, and green shorts. He was tan, and looked like he had money.
With him was a beautiful young woman with long black hair that she’d put up in an immaculate French twist. She wore a blue and white cotton frock that looked expensive, and was perfectly pressed. I noticed that she didn’t have an extra ounce on her. She had perfect legs, with no cellulite whatsoever.
There was also a young man who looked like maybe the older teenaged son of the man. I don’t think he was the woman’s son, because she appeared to be too young to be his mother. She also had a little boy with her, who looked like maybe he was between the ages of 2 and 3 years old. I noticed he had a full head of brown hair, a mouth full of baby teeth, and big, expressive eyes.
The man stalked off, leaving the woman, the teen, and the little boy at their table. The teen looked embarrassed, while the mother seemed resolved. She said something to the toddler, who immediately melted down into tears.
I don’t think I’ll ever forget the look on that kid’s face. It was a look of profound disappointment and grief, as he cried in the middle of the restaurant. The woman picked up her stuff and the little boy, and they left the restaurant to join the man, who was still scowling near the entrance.
Based only on what the man had snapped, and then the child’s reaction when the woman spoke to him, I surmise that the issue had to do with breastfeeding. I got the sense that maybe they were Americans, and perhaps the boy was not yet fully weaned. Like a lot of Americans, especially men, the man probably felt uncomfortable with his wife breastfeeding in public.
In Europe, public breastfeeding is not really a big deal. I’ve seen plenty of women feeding their babies in public. I’ve also seen a lot of little kids running around naked at Freibads. Nudity isn’t really a big deal in most parts of Europe.
I could be totally wrong about what it looked like I witnessed, but that’s what it seemed like happened. I felt really sad for the little boy. He looked like such a sweet kid. It’s not his fault his father (or perhaps grandfather?) has hang ups about breastfeeding, and thinks of women’s breasts as purely sexual, rather than a source of nourishment for his son. Or… so I assume, anyway. For all I know, he was grousing about the woman’s nipples for some other reason.
In any case, that guy probably doesn’t deserve that woman’s company. She was very young and pretty, and could do much better than him. But, for all I know, he was actually her father. He certainly appeared to be old enough. 🤷♀️
***
After that brief, but disturbing disruption, Bill and I turned our attention back to the menu. Since it was our last night, we decided to go all out. I started with a tomato and strawberry salad, followed by dorade. Bill had the wonderful scampi appetizer I had on Sunday, followed by veal. We started with the fresh baked bread, and accompanied dinner with a bottle of Weissburgunder from the Rheingau.
I don’t usually go for tomato salads, but this was really nice. Especially on such a hot day!I can attest to how good the scampi was. Bill also enjoyed the shrimp and lobster dish.Dorade filet with tomatoes, olives, harissa, and potatoes.Veal with carrots, snow peas, rösti, mushrooms, and jus.
We enjoyed a very leisurely dinner. The waiter who had seated us told us a little about himself. He said he had come to Switzerland by way of Munich, having been born and raised in Lithuania. Bill and I visited Lithuania last year, and thought of it as a beautiful place. But then, we went to Vilnius… perhaps the rest of the country is not quite as developed. The waiter told us that everyone he knew had left Lithuania, so he hadn’t been back there in twenty years, and saw no reason to return. Frankly, I’m starting to feel the same way about my own homeland.
At some point, the Lithuanian waiter disappeared, and the Prince William looking waiter took over. I was struck in the difference between their approaches. “Prince William” was obviously more professional and refined. He told us he’d come to Küsnacht from Mannheim, which is not far from where Bill and I live. Now, next time I take a train past the Mannheim station, I’ll think of him!
Finally, it was time for dessert. I decided to go for the Caramel Brownie Sundae, with vanilla ice cream, caramel sauce, whipped cream, and chocolate. Bill had the strawberries, with Woodruff sabayon and almond crumble. Looks like it also had ice cream in it. The sundae was not what I had expected, but I really enjoyed it just the same!
After dessert, we paid the check and headed back to our room for our last night at the Sonne Seehotel.
The entrance/exit to the Pavilion Restaurant…
I’ll write the final part to this series later… possibly today, or maybe tomorrow. It will probably be short. Stay tuned!
This morning, Bill had to take me on post to get a new driver’s “license”. Actually, it’s not a license; it’s a special permit given to Americans living in Germany, courtesy of the US military. My Texas driver’s license is my real license, but I also have to get a card from the military, which grants me the right to drive in Germany. When we go to other European countries, technically, we’re supposed to have an international driver’s permit.
I don’t know what we’re going to do if we stay here for much longer, because once my Texas license expires, I’ll have to renew it in person. And that will mean somehow establishing a residence there, when we live here… I think it might be time to trade the Texas license for a German one, or move back home. Or maybe do what a lot of contractors and their spouses do, and just drive on an expired license, which is risky, because it’s illegal. I remember back in 2015, there was a huge fiasco when German cops cracked down on American drivers with expired licenses. It did eventually get worked out, but this is a problem that a lot of folks like us eventually have to confront, if we stay in Germany.
Personally, I think we should just get German licenses. Since we have Texas licenses, we can just exchange them. But Bill worries about doing that, because anytime one does something official in Germany, it puts one on the government’s radar, and that could threaten our status as non German tax paying “temporary” residents. But I don’t see how getting a proper driver’s license is any worse than putting a child in a local school, which a lot of military folks do. I myself went to a British kindergarten, when my dad was serving his final years in the Air Force and we lived in England.
Anyway… today was the day to get a renewal, and due to Bill’s busy work schedule, we had to go today, which is a “walk-in” day. It’s lucky that we got there when we did, because there was a huge influx of people in the few minutes we waited. We were lucky enough to score chairs to sit on. While we were waiting, I was reminded of how much the military loves signs… and I couldn’t help but take a few photos of the ones posted in the building we visited to take care of today’s chore. I know I’ve written about this topic before, but I figured today was a good day for a reminder. Some of these signs are especially “newsy” (and some are reruns from the earlier post)!
Behold!
I actually wish I had this poster at home.I was confused by this… but Bill explained it was a relic from the COVID era. It made me think of condoms.I liked how the person who made this sign mentioned “common sense.” Yep, that can be lacking in some places.I wonder how many people take this initiative to heart as they wash their hands.A good reminder for public health.Another newsy sign that made me guffaw.Loose lips sink ships!They are “totally understaffed”!A rare multilingual sign. On the other side of the door, there is a sign that says “WOMAN”, as opposed to “WOMEN”.Another newsy sign!
We saw the same guy who helped us the last time we renewed (in August 2019), but we were actually served by a different guy, who wore a Hawaiian shirt. Apparently, the office is “totally understaffed” right now… You can read all about it in the newsy sign requesting that people make appointments instead of walking in. We would have obliged, but Bill’s office is also “totally understaffed”. After filling out the paperwork, taking a quick eye test, and handing over $30 (up from $20 five years ago), we were all done. The line for licenses had gotten longer while we were taking care of business.
After we took care of renewing my USAREUR license, we headed back to the car, and I was reminded of how I’ve been in this system for most of my life. It occurred to me just how many military installations I’ve been on, due to the fact that my dad was a career Air Force officer, and my husband was a career Army officer, and now he works for the Army. It wasn’t my plan to be in this military life… but yet, here I am… a lifelong “dependent” (I refuse to refer to myself as a “dependa”, because that term is offensive.)
It also occurred to me how attracted I am to men in uniforms… There were quite a few handsome young guys standing in line, looking quite “hot” in their OCPs. The ladies also looked good. It made me miss the days when Bill wore a uniform to work every day. Hubba hubba!
I don’t even drive very often anymore, even though I have a car. I don’t see the point in going somewhere just for the hell of it. But I do need the legal license, because when we get back from our vacation, I have to take Charlie to the vet for a heartworm test, since he came from Kosovo. We want to make sure he wasn’t infested down there before we have him anesthetized for a much needed dental cleaning.
Yesterday, our neighbors brought over some cake for us, because that’s a tradition among some Germans on the first day of school. You make a cake, and share it with neighbors. I actually only heard of that tradition when this particular neighbor brought it up a couple of years ago. Anyway, it was nice of her! We had it for breakfast this morning.
Well… I think today, I will take care of a few routine chores, so I don’t have to worry about them tomorrow, before we jet off to Iceland. So ends today’s blog post! The next one will probably be written from an island in the northern Atlantic!
Breckenheim had a wine stand last night. We decided to attend, so we could salute Arran in style. Noyzi came with us, because we’re hoping to get him more used to people. We’d like to be able to take him more places. Besides, he genuinely loves people, but he’s scared of those he doesn’t know. Taking him out in the village is a good way to help him get more socialized.
We enjoyed a few glasses of local wine and talked to some of our neighbors. We told them about Arran, and how we lost him yesterday morning. I wondered if they thought we were weird for going out… We ran into our landlady– or, the wife of our landlord. I think she’s the one who legally owns our house, since her brother built it. She asked where Arran was, and we told her what happened.
It struck me as kind of strange. When we lost Zane, our landlords didn’t know until over a year later. That’s how much privacy they give us, even though we’re next door neighbors. Our former landlady probably would have known within days, even though she didn’t live next door.
Anyway, we said we’d seen her artwork at the neighborhood art show in the fall. She laughed, and said that wasn’t her artwork. It seems there’s another woman in our village with the same name. She’s much older. The landlady said she’s always having to tell people she isn’t the same person! Either way, the artwork was beautiful. Our landlady has a nice sense of style, too. She was wearing a pretty scarf. Maybe that reveals a certain artistic bent.
We also met an English speaking guy who hailed from the Nagold area and moved to Breckenheim. He said he used to work as a waiter at a nightclub in Stuttgart. One night, the deejay was very late coming in, and he was flanked by two police officers when he finally did show up. I guess the show didn’t go on that night.
It was a pretty average wine stand, but I did get a nice video of the neighborhood horses passing, as well as a few photos…
I love this about our village… horses, wine, and dogs. Who could ask for more?
It was nice to get our and enjoy the onset of spring… and now we can make some travel plans. We’re long overdue for a trip. After three years of road trips, I might even be convinced to fly on a plane and go somewhere further afield.
Before business picked up.I’m so lucky to share life with Bill.And Noyzi, our Kosovar rescue dog.But we’re still missing our sweet Arran.Noyzi was very good. He settled down a lot as the time passed.
Cheers to Arran, who is no longer suffering, and no longer has cancer or needs chemo… and doesn’t have to worry about trying to jump up on our too tall bed. I like to think of his soul finally free of his sick, but very strong body. The featured photo is the second to the last one we have of Arran. I took the last one in the vet’s office, just before we said goodbye. I don’t normally do that… but for some reason, I just felt like doing it. I’ll keep it private, because I don’t want people to remember him in that way. He was a majestic dog with a larger than life presence. We were blessed to know him.
Earlier this week, Bill noticed the wine stand sign was up, advertising the return of our village’s reliable club fundraisers. I was excited to hear that the spring ritual was commencing because that means better weather is on its way. Breckenheim has impressed us a lot since we moved here at the end of November 2018. People are friendly, and there are a lot of community events.
Last fall, we finally got a weekly market, which has proven to be very popular. It went off so well that it continued even through the winter. Every Thursday, local fresh food vendors sell their products in our Dorfplatz. The wine kiosk is open, and someone usually cooks brats on the grill. However, the market only goes from 1pm until 6pm, so that makes it hard to go shop unless Bill gets home early.
The wine stands are different, as they are only about wine and socializing. Sometimes, there’s live entertainment, too. Last night’s wine stand was hosted by the local tennis club. Seems to me the last time they hosted, they also had a singing group. I remember it well, because it was during the summer and, because they were putting in the new public restroom, the stand was held in the parking area of the Rathaus/elementary school. That’s even closer to where we live than the Dorfplatz is. I also remember that particular wine stand because I got COVID-19 right after we attended.
I shared a couple of photos with the wine group I run on Facebook. A lady who lives down in Stuttgart asked about the wine stand, and I had to break it to her that I’ve never seen wine stands in Stuttgart or its environs. That area is more about beer, although they do have wineries in the Stuttgart area and their own wine culture. But Wiesbaden and the surrounding area is in the heart of the Rheingau, which is Germany’s wine country.
Stuttgart does have some other fun traditions, though, like pop up “Besen” (Swabian word for “broom”) restaurants. If that’s a Germany wide tradition, I have yet to run across it in the Wiesbaden area. But then, I don’t hang out in the local Facebook groups up here.
Anyway, last night’s wine stand was fun, albeit a bit chilly, and mostly uneventful… I did get some photos, and when we came home 90 minutes later, Arran gave us an enthusiastic welcome. Our old guy still has a big tumor on his side– I had thought it was a lymph node, but the vet says she thinks it’s a tumor. He seems a little more tired lately, too. But he’s still with us, and wanting to do all he can for as long as he has left.
Such a good provider!Ain’t we sweet?
I will spend the next week home alone, as Bill has another business trip this week and part of next week. Good vibes, please, that Arran hangs in there until the business trips stop for March. He had a treatment this week and will get one next week.
He’s sticking around for as long as he can.
Today, we have plans to go to a wine “messe” in Hofheim. If we actually make it, I’ll be writing a new post tomorrow. Stay tuned.
We almost didn’t make it to the second day of the wine fest in Breckenheim, mainly because of the weather. Yesterday, it rained a fair bit, which we really needed. But it did sort of put a damper on our enthusiasm to join in with the festivities. Bill and I decided to go to the fest anyway, because I wanted to see if anyone was there. Sure enough, plenty of folks had shown up for wine, live music, and street food.
We were originally only going to have one glass of wine at the stand we missed on Friday night, but we ran into some people we knew, and I was enjoying watching people dance, sing, and drink. Lots of kids were there, too, having a good time. I got some photos and videos of the fest. Although there’s no rain on the forecast, I don’t think we will attend today, because frankly, my body is still recovering. We have a bad habit of not eating when we attend these fests, thinking we’ll eat at home. And then when we get back, we don’t feel like cooking. 😉
As you can see, I was sporting the drowned rat look, because we didn’t bother to bring umbrellas.
Classy.Glad I didn’t bother with makeup or hairstyling.After the rain let up.
Sittin’ on the Dock of the Bay…
I videoed this for my friend, Andrew, who is a fellow Sting fan.
This year, we seem to be attending so many wine fests! It’s probably on account of COVID-19 restrictions finally going away. October is coming, and there may be new restrictions, based on what the virus does. For now, Germans are having their beloved festivals, and where we live, they’re all about the wine. Remember that we moved to Wiesbaden in late 2018, so we missed the 2018 season. In 2019, it was “normal”, but we were dealing with stress associated with our departure from Stuttgart that put a damper on our spirits. Then came 2020 and 2021, and fests were significantly reduced. In 2022, things have rebounded a lot.
Our little town of Breckenheim is up and coming. We just got a weekly market, which started last week, probably to justify the installation of the new public toilet (which I got to use last night). This week, had a market AND a wine fest. I anticipate that there will be a lot more socializing in our village, and it’s a great thing. I’ve stated more than once how much we have enjoyed how convivial Breckenheim is. It’s a very different, friendly, mostly inclusive vibe here that helps to make up for losing the awesome beauty of the Schwarzwald in our backyard.
Bill came home from his latest business trip yesterday afternoon. He took Arran to the vet, because he’s been a little “off” lately, plus his run ins with the hedgehog in our backyard resulted in his getting fleas. Hedgehog fleas apparently don’t infest dogs and cats like regular fleas do, but they do bite. I noticed Arran had swollen popliteal lymph nodes, too. So he got a fine needle aspirate, antibiotics, and flea meds. One of the fleas was kind enough to jump off of Arran when he was being examined. Bill said the vet, two techs, and he all worked together to corral the nasty beast so it can be studied under a microscope. I’m hoping that whatever has Arran acting odd will turn out to be related to the fleas and isn’t due to cancer. He’s about 14 years old now, and our last three dogs succumbed to cancer. Arran was a little slow this morning, but after he had some breakfast and a walk, he perked up a bit.
The wine fest is going to go on all weekend. We’ll probably go again, because we had so much fun last night. At first, there were a couple of ladies giving us the side eye when they heard us speaking English to another American. Later, our next door neighbor’s mom came over to talk to us. She went over and sat with the ladies, and probably told them we weren’t tourists. Then our landlord bought us a round of wine. And then the young family who is moving to our neighbor’s vacant apartment came over with their kids, and we had a great time chatting with them. I have a feeling they are going to be good friends. They even asked us to carve a jack o’ lantern for Halloween, because they want to celebrate it. I’m happy to do that. I’m not very good at carving pumpkins, though.
Halloween is kind of hit or miss in Germany. One year, during our first stint in Germany, we had people come to our door and we weren’t prepared. Then we weren’t home other years. Bill now picks up candy in case anyone rings the bell, but no one ever does. Looks like this year will be different. This is the same family who brought me a piece of the pretzel the other day. I found out that the mom is half Italian, which explains why she found the Stuttgart area to be less friendly. It’s my experience that Italians are stereotypically a lot warmer– sympatisch— as my Italian friend who lives in Germany would say– than people from Swabia are. At least at first. I’ve found that most Swabians will eventually warm up, once you get to know them. It just usually takes more time than it does up here in Hesse.
We were only going to stay a little while last night, then go home and have dinner, which is why we didn’t try the food vendor’s wares. Instead, we ate a pretzel with Spundekäs, which wasn’t enough… especially considering how much wine we enjoyed. There were maybe four or five wine stands going, plus live music, plenty of seating, and the new toilet, which we learned last night cost taxpayers 120,000 euros or so… No wonder so many people were upset about it and a news guy from the local radio station was asking for opinions last year! But it is a nice facility, at least for now. And it’s Kostenfrei (free of charge), which really makes it special. 😉 I tried the new toilet, but failed to lock it properly. Luckily, I was finished when someone opened the door on me and said, “Entschuldigung!” (excuse me) I suppose I’ll learn the right way to lock the door, now that the village is about to be bustling with events.
Below are some photos from last night’s fun, plus a couple of videos from Bill’s return home.
Arran and Noyzi were delighted to see Bill after his trip. So was I!
Arran had to give his favorite person a hug. I was working on my latest puzzle.We got to the fest early.I bet this is going to get bigger if they have more of them.This cat was so friendly.Apparently, he or she’s adopted the town.Dinner.He or she really made the rounds. Everybody was picking up this cat.Bill was a sight for sore eyes.Me being goofy. No makeup.We have so much fun.Someone brought their gorgeous dog.He was beautifully behaved.Everybody was admiring him.I used it for the first time… and didn’t lock it properly.Live music!
Bill had to go out of town on business, so I’m spending most of the week alone. We got a bunch of Amazon deliveries yesterday– a new spool for the weed whacker, dog food for Noyzi, contact lenses for me, and two bottles of liqueurs that I was curious about trying. I thought I was finished answering the door when the bell rang again. I will admit, I was a little annoyed, mainly because I wasn’t wearing clothes that people outside of the household should see. But I answered the doorbell anyway…
It was our neighbors-to-be, whom we met on Friday night– mom, dad, and two young children. They were all dressed up, and the wife was holding a plate with what appeared to be a piece of bread on it. She said, in her heavily accented and somewhat broken English (which is still much better than my German any day), that yesterday was the first day of school, and it’s a tradition for sweet “Brezels” to be served for good luck. I think she also said that it was tradition to share the treat with a neighbor, and originally she had described what looked like a yeast bread as “cake”.
In ten years of living in Germany, this has never happened to me before, so I was unaware of the custom, but I was very moved by the gesture, nonetheless. Especially since they are going to be our neighbors as of next month! I did enjoy talking to them at our party the other day, mainly because she was born and raised in the Stuttgart area and had some rather candid opinions about her hometown that I found amusing. Let’s just say that she has the same impressions of the Swabian culture that a lot of people seem to have, and she prefers living in Hesse. Personally, I really like the Stuttgart area, but I have to agree that Hessians are stereotypically friendlier.
She presented the piece of “Brezel” to me on a lovely plate. I asked her what I should do with the plate when we were finished with it. She said I could return it when they move in next month. I am enjoying the Brezel bread for breakfast today, with my coffee. I thought it had raisins in it, too, but now that I’ve tasted it, I think they’re chocolate chips! Even better!
I posted about this surprise gift on Facebook, and my German friend– also hailing from Baden-Württemberg– was initially confused about the tradition herself. But then when I explained that the “cake” was actually Brezel, she wrote “alles klar”, and explained that it‘s customary for sweet pretzels (Brezels) to be made for the new school year, and passed out to the kids. Usually, one only sees them at New Year’s, when they are made fresh and passed out to family and friends for good luck and cohesion. However, in some areas, they also make them for St. Martin’s Day, or for the new school year, which starts in September in these parts.
Here’s a video about the New Year’s Pretzel, which I guess is the same as the pretzel handed out yesterday.
My friend asked if the bread was braided, and I wrote that I couldn’t tell, as it was only a generous sized piece of the Brezel, and not a whole one. But after a few minutes of research, she was able to find the answer for me. Now that I think about it, I believe our new neighbor’s husband’s family– who is also going to be our neighbor– is from a bit north of Wiesbaden. He brought some special beer to the party that can only be found in that area, and he and Bill bonded over it.
One of the things I like about living in Europe is that there are a lot of surprises. Most of the time, they’re pleasant surprises, like the time we lived in Jettingen and I got serenaded by three kids dressed up for Three Kings Day. They were collecting money for the Catholic church, and they were so adorable I couldn’t resist giving them some spare euros. There’s always something going on here, and so many traditions. We’re also heading into my favorite time of year, when the summer heat dissipates, and the weather gets cozy. I can stop wearing my t-shirts and Daisy Duke shorts (which I can’t pull off worth a damn), and wear pretty sweaters, scarves, and jewelry.
Hopefully, this new family will turn out to be actual friends. So far, so good. The wife even laughed at my jokes… especially when I was talking about having to leave Stuttgart early the first time and said, “I was PIIISSSED…” Come to think of it, I was probably also “pissed”, in the British sense of the word, when I was telling that story… But it’s a good sign that she wasn’t offended. 😉
Yesterday, something happened that I’ve been eagerly anticipating for awhile. Our little village had its very first neighborhood market on the Dorfplatz. It was also the first day of September, which means that, right on cue, the weather started to change in earnest. I’ve lived in Germany for ten years of my life and it never fails. As of September 1, it immediately gets cooler in Germany, even if it was broiling hot the week prior. Usually, by the 15th, I consistently need to wear a jacket, and have put away the air conditioners until summer comes around again. In fact, just a few minutes ago, I pulled the air conditioning hose inside and closed the window in my office for the first time in weeks. It’s really cooling down outside. I hope that means we’ll soon get some rain.
Some people might not think the neighborhood market is a big deal. I mentioned it on social media, and two of my American friends posted that their towns in the United States are doing the “same” thing. With all due respect to my American friends, I don’t think it is quite the same. Remember, I spent a good 35 of my 50 years in the USA, and have lived in several states, so I’m in a position to know something about life there. I would be very surprised if I went to a market in, say, my home state of Virginia, and found someone selling fresh harissa, locally produced sausages, or unpasteurized cheeses, which are usually pretty hard to find in the US.
I would also be surprised if they were pouring local wines. In the States, there’s a big emphasis on alcohol laws. Anyone appearing to be under 21 will be carded. This isn’t to say there are no booze laws here, but the drinking age is lower, while the driving age is higher… and fewer people drive here, anyway. And drinking seems to be more of a normal part of society, just as smoking is. In our case, the market was just down the hill from our house, and all of the people at the market are literally our neighbors.
Of course, that doesn’t mean that there aren’t wonderful markets in the United States. I just don’t think they’re quite the same there as they are here. The market that happens in Wiesbaden is totally different than the market we had last night, which was very small and felt more like a wine stand with a few vendors selling their wares. However, I have a feeling that once the market catches on, it will be bigger, and there will be more things to buy than what was available last night. As it was, there was a flower vendor, someone selling vegetables, and a Turkish Feinkost represented. And the wine kiosk was open, so they were selling wine, beer, Schorles, and other non-alcoholic beverages. It looked like they had the usual Brats and Brotchens, too. I had Noyzi and Arran with me, so I didn’t get very close to the action.
Maybe it sounds petty, but it kind of annoys me when people back home assume they know how it is here… and claim it’s the “same” as it is in the United States. As an American who has lived many years in America, I know it isn’t, really. But then, a lot of things in the USA are not the same as they are in Germany. For instance, it’s pretty hard to find some of my favorite American style comfort foods over here. I am fortunate enough to shop at the military commissary, order from Amazon.com, and have stuff come through APO (government mail for US citizens). I regularly buy high quality grits from a farm in South Carolina, which are vastly superior to the Quaker quick or instant grits “crapola” in the commissary. I wouldn’t be able to find grits at all in a German store. Instead, I’d find polenta, which is not really the same. It’s only somewhat similar. Grits are also NOT semolina (Cream of Wheat). They are made of ground up hominy, which is corn.
The boys were amused by the sights and sounds of our little market.
It’s been my experience that Europeans tend to be more community minded than most people in the United States are, but of course there are always exceptions. And I’ve found that Breckenheim is a lot more of a friendly community than either of the towns we lived in near Stuttgart. Maybe it’s because of the wine. Stuttgart does have wineries, but the emphasis in the southern part of Germany is more on beer. Up here near the Rhein, it’s wine country. Maybe it’s because Hesse is not Swabia. Seriously… there is a different mindset in the Swabian region of Germany. It’s not that the people aren’t nice. They are. It’s just that it seems to take longer to make friends down there. The mood is a bit more insular, especially in smaller towns. There’s a different dialect that even native Germans sometimes have trouble understanding. And people, on the whole, seem to be more reserved and formal than they are in Hesse. In that sense, Germany IS like the United States, because as we all know, there are many different cultures within the regions of the US, too.
Anyway, below are some photos from last night. I didn’t get as close as I would have liked to, because we brought the dogs with us. Noyzi still gets pretty freaked out by strangers, although I can tell his instinct is to be very friendly. He’s still overcoming traumas from his youth, though, and that takes time and experience. I was proud of him last night, even if he was a little spooked by everything. Overall, he behaved very well. Arran, of course, couldn’t care less. He’s getting pretty old and is now unimpressed by a lot of things that used to set him off. Next weekend, Breckenheim will host its first wine fest. That should be fun, especially since it will be easy to haul home purchases from the Dorfplatz. Last night also heralded the opening of Breckenheim’s public toilet! I know that was exciting, too. The men of the village have been all over setting it up for weeks now.
Noyzi was a good boy.So was Arran.Bill checks out the produce, but didn’t see anything he wanted.Wine while you shop!A good excuse to mingle by the church.Bill’s haul… olives, harissa, lentil salad, and dried papaya.
Although we will have lived in Wiesbaden for four years at the end of November, there are still a lot of places in Hessen we haven’t yet seen. A big reason for that is COVID-19. Things have really only been somewhat normal since April of this year. There are a few other reasons, too… one of them being sheer laziness and feeling slack because not that many people read my travel blog anymore. Nevertheless, I still enjoy writing it and taking photos, and I know there will come a day when I’ll look back on these memories with fondness. So, with that in mind, I let Bill talk me into another excursion today.
St. Elizabeth’s Church is also known as the Greek Chapel. It was built between 1847 and 1855 by Duke Adolf of Nassau, to pay respects to the death of his 19 year old wife, Grand Duchess Elizabeth Mikhailovna of Russia. The couple had only been married a year when the duchess died in childbirth, as did their baby daughter. The duke was so bereaved that he decided to build the church around the duchess’s grave in her honor, using money from the duchess’s dowry. It is now the site of the largest Russian Orthodox cemetery in Europe, outside of Russia itself.
I had long been wanting to visit St. Elizabeth’s Church, a beautiful golden domed Russian Orthodox church on Neroberg, a hill overlooking one of Wiesbaden’s most tony neighborhoods with very grand homes owned by wealthy people. This church is the only Russian Orthodox church in our fair city, and besides being lovely, it offers some beautiful views of the city. There are also other things on Neroberg, to include a vineyard, a couple of restaurants, a pool, a climbing forest, and lots of walking paths. To get up to the church, one can either drive and hope to find a parking spot, or hope to find a spot at the bottom of the hill and take the Nerobergbahn, which is a funicular that goes up and down the hill. It’s also possible to walk or bike up there, but that’s definitely not for people like me. 😉 Especially in August!
Bill had warned me that today there would also be a large climate change protest in Wiesbaden, with many people riding bikes to rally for Earth friendly policies. Remembering last week’s Stau on A3, I was hoping we wouldn’t be hindered by the crowd. Fortunately, as you will see in the photos at the end of this post, we were leaving Wiesbaden, as they were coming in. Based on what we saw in Wiesbaden itself, there’s going to be quite a party going on. I know there was a food truck festival going on, too, but after last week’s shenanigans at the wine fest, we decided the church was a better bet today.
It took us a few passes to score a parking spot near the Nerobergbahn, and when we did find one, Bill had to parallel park. That shouldn’t have been hard in a 2020 Volvo with parking assist, but I don’t think Bill trusts it. Fortunately, he was able to park the SUV, and we made our way to the funicular, where we purchased tickets going up and down the hill. It’s important to note that the current 9 euro train passes don’t work on this funicular. You have to buy tickets, which at this writing, cost 5 euros per adult. If you just want a one way ticket, it’s 4 euros. They also have special rates for groups, families, and kindergarten groups with children. The ticket can also be combined with tickets for the climbing forest, which appears to be an adventure/tree climbing/zip line park for people more fit than I am. 😉
The funicular runs until 7:00pm at this writing, and there are two wagons that continually go up and down. The car is enclosed, so face masks have to be worn. As much as I hate masks, it makes sense, since it gets kind of chummy in there. If you score a standing place on the caboose, you don’t have to wear a mask. The ride is about three minutes or so, and you don’t see much as you go up and come down. Still, it beats walking.
When we got to the top of the hill, we went to a nearby Biergarten and had a snack, since I was a bit hangry and needed a bathroom. There were lots of people there, and I heard several different languages. I felt a lot less grouchy after Bill and I shared a Flammkuechen (Alsatian pizza) and washed it down with beer. I don’t even like Flammkuechen much, but I didn’t want a Schnitzel or a piece of cake. It was just enough, and after we ate, we walked around and got photos. I really just wanted some pictures of the view of downtown Wiesbaden, and the beautiful Russian church.
I already had Russia kind of on my mind, thanks to an advice column I read yesterday in the Washington Post. A woman wrote about how she’d married someone from Eastern Europe, and his family shows love by pushing food on guests. She explained that she has a lot of food issues, and isn’t comfortable eating a lot. I noticed a lot of the comments from Americans, most of whom either have no experience with Eastern European cultures, or no appreciation for other cultures.
I commented that I empathize with the letter writer, since I had been a Peace Corps Volunteer in the Republic of Armenia, which is a formerly Soviet country. Food is a big part of their culture, which is all about hospitality. One of the first phrases we learned as Peace Corps Trainees was how to say “I’m full.” in Armenian. We were also taught how to signify that we were appeased, so the host(s) didn’t feel the need to keep bringing out food. Leave a little food on the plate.
Someone else commented that they had also been an Peace Corps Armenia Volunteer, years after I was there, and was going to write the very same thing! And I had also mentioned that Armenians would always comment when I lost or gained weight, too. That was another aspect of that culture I remember with somewhat less fondness. Sigh…
Anyway, I thought of that exchange as we decided to visit the inside of the Russian Orthodox Church. It’s two euros per adult to go inside. One thing I had forgotten was that Orthodox churches don’t allow people to go inside with bare legs. Bill and I were both wearing shorts, so the lady behind the counter apologized and asked us both to put on wrap around skirts. It was a little embarrassing, but then I remembered the Armenians (and Greeks, now that I think about it) were the same.
We had to cover our legs to enter the churches and not wear revealing clothes. I also told Bill to be careful not to cross his legs. That was another caveat we got in Armenia, lest some little old lady chastise us for being disrespectful. I smiled at Bill and said, “It’s taboo.” And now that I have looked it up, I see that my memory serves me correctly. Of course, it didn’t come up anyway, since the church doesn’t really have anywhere to sit. I mean, there aren’t any pews or anything. Maybe a couple of chairs.
Photography isn’t really allowed inside, but I snuck a few photos anyway, since I had to wear a skirt. No one noticed. I did appreciate the smell of incense and the beautiful Russian choral music. St. Elizabeth’s Church really is a very lovely church and well worth a visit. I’m glad we finally made the trip to see it.
After our visit to the church, we walked back up the hill to the overlook, where we saw a World War I memorial and gazes at Wiesbaden from the vantage point of the hill, in view of the vineyards. It was very beautiful. I might have liked a few fewer clouds, but given how dry it’s been here this summer, I’d say the clouds were probably Heaven sent.
Here are today’s photos…
The neighborhood near Neroberg is gorgeous.Alsatian pizza. This one had bacon, onions, and cream fraiche.Roman theater.The temple.Restaurant and pool.Forbidden!Skirts for bare legged heathens.Zoomed in shot of downtown Wiesbaden.World War I memorial.Vineyards over Wiesbaden.Evangelical Market Church of WiesbadenBikers for climate change.Yes, they were on the Autobahn! The police shut it down for them.So glad we were going the other way!
Well, that about does it for today’s post. I’m glad we went out today and got to know our city better. It sure is POSH.
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