adventure, house hunting

Onward and upward to Vipiteno, Italy… (part seven)

On Friday morning, Bill and I had breakfast a half hour earlier. We had requested it, because it’s quite a long haul to Vipiteno from Pescara. Carlo very kindly obliged us. After we ate, we paid him the tourist taxes for our four nights at his B&B and said goodbye. His wife was taking care of the Italian couple who had booked a room on our last night. I noticed she was much chattier with them, but that’s only natural. Maybe if we move to Italy, we’ll get fluent in the language… especially since there seem to be fewer English speakers in Italy than in Germany.

I have actually picked up some German after living here for so many years. However, it’s not that easy to learn German when so many people automatically seem to switch to English when they don’t hear a German accent. I can’t deny that just being in this country and hearing the language from locals, on YouTube ads, and the radio has led to picking up some words by osmosis. But practicing speaking it is more difficult. Maybe the widespread use of English is a detriment to us Americans– lots of books, movies, music, and video games are in English, after all. I was dumbfounded by how widespread English was when I went to Armenia. When I lived there, I definitely needed to know Armenian! That’s not as true today.

Anyway, we set off for Vipiteno before 9:00 AM. At first, we had really beautiful, sunny weather. I took lots of photos of the coast as we drove north. The Adriatic Sea is truly very beautiful and blue. I want to book a vacation in a beach town and enjoy it when the weather is warmer. I wish the guardrails in Italy weren’t so tall. There is so much beautiful scenery there, but it’s hard to capture it from a car.

The further north we drove, the cloudier the sky became. My German friend had warned me that there would be snow in the Alps. But for the first hours of our drive, the weather was clear, sunny, and fairly warm. Carlo had told us that it was unseasonably warm during our visit, as he prepared his garden and had construction of a new shed done on his property.

We stopped for gas at a station that overlooked the sea. I was amused when I entered a stall and saw a little sink in there. I guess it was a makeshift bidet (I almost wrote “makeshit”). Italians are big on bidets in their bathrooms, but it’s not so often that you find them in public restrooms!

I took a few more photos of interesting structures as we drove further north. It was getting close to lunchtime. I wished we were on the other side of the Autostrada, so we could have another lunch at Eataly. Instead, we stopped at a chain place called Sarni. I was immediately turned off by it because of the trash near the building. Then, when we walked inside, it smelled vaguely of urine, which turned me off. So, after a quick pit stop, we decided to keep driving.

We stopped at an AutoGrill, which was very crowded and had signs advertising how each parking spot had a webcam that would allow patrons to check on their cars while they ate in one of the food court restaurants. I wondered what prompted them to put in the cameras. And then, when we went into the place, I was turned off by how crowded, dirty, and hectic it was. I also didn’t see anything offered in the restaurants that was particularly appetizing, although I would have settled for something. But this time, Bill decided we’d keep driving.

I was starting to get fatigued and grouchy as we reached the exit for Parma. Not long after that, the road changed, and we were on a different Autostrada heading for Brenner Pass. Bill spotted another AutoGrill. This one was the charm. Not only did it have a sit down restaurant that didn’t smell like pee, it also wasn’t super crowded. So we went in and enjoyed lunch, right at the point at which I was about to have a hangry meltdown. I had a burger and Bill had a chicken sandwich. I was impressed by the burger, which was tasty and juicy, even if it was pretty messy.

We were maybe two hours or so from our destination after we ate our late lunch. I was feeling less irritable, even though the weather got pretty yucky. You can see by the photos, we went from sunny and warm to cloudy and grim!

Finally, in the late afternoon, we arrived in Gossensass-Colle Isarco, which is a little village just outside of Vipiteno, which we drove past on our way to our Gasthaus, Hotel Erna. I’m not sure why I decided to book this particular property. It might have been because reviews mentioned that the scenery was pretty, parking is free, and the service was good. It’s a pleasant, three star establishment that had all we needed, but was not particularly fancy. Their restaurant wasn’t open because it’s the off season. Fortunately, there are a couple of little shops and restaurants within walking distance of the hotel. There’s also a train stop, and when you check in, they give you a card that allows free rides on public transportation.

I was actually invited in by the proprietor, as I had charged ahead of Bill without picking up any luggage. He had decided to bring it in instead of getting it after checking in. We were assigned a corner room with two balconies. Since it was getting dark and was cold and rainy, we decided to settle in for the night. Hotel Erna also has a tennis court. Bill said the court looked like it was Wimbledon style, with grass. I wonder what the story is behind a tennis court at this little unassuming hotel!

It would have been nice to have had dinner, but our late lunch filled us up… and the weather just didn’t invite us to venture out. Maybe if we go back to that area again, we’ll do it when Hotel Erna’s restaurant is open. It really does have a different feel… as everyone was speaking German, even though we were technically in Italy.

In the next post, I’ll write about our visit to Vipiteno/Sterzing. Stay tuned!

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house hunting

Moving onward to Abruzzo… (part three)

Monday morning, we woke up to steady, cold rain. It would have been tempting to just stay in bed. But we had a long haul ahead of us, and I realized that morning that we had neglected to call the B&B where we were going to be staying and let them know of our plans. That had been specifically mentioned in the instructions when we booked Peperosa in Collina B&B, in Pescara, Italy. We were supposed to give 24 hours notice, but I forgot. It was Sunday, anyway.

With some gentle prodding from yours truly, Bill was convinced to call the proprietor of the B&B, Carlo, and let him know when we expected to arrive in Pescara. Then we had breakfast… more of the same delightful cold cuts, juices, cheeses, and breads, accompanied by perfect cappuccinos. Bill ordered six bottles of wine from Tenuta Castello di Morcote, and we settled the bill.

There was a neighbor of the hotel, picking up what appeared to be new shrubbery and landscaping. The truck belonging to the landscapers blocked the entrance to the hotel, so the receptionist asked them to move, so Bill could get our Volvo close to the door and collect our bags. The owner of the house retorted quite rudely to the receptionist, who came back in and was muttering in what I assume was an annoyed way. I couldn’t blame her. The neighbor seemed to be quite difficult and bitchy.

Nevertheless, we managed to load up our vehicle and got on our way south. Lugano is pretty close to the border with Italy, so it wasn’t long before we were passing what used to be a pretty cool looking shopping mall called Centro Ovale. I didn’t know what it was as we were passing it, but it was a very striking structure. I looked it up and learned that it took longer to build this former shopping center than its days as a functioning business. It closed several years ago, but it still managed to turn my head. I had to zoom way in on Google Earth to find out what it was. Luckily, there was a picture of a sign for a parking garage for this weird looking mall. I didn’t get a chance to take a photo.

After some time we decided to stop for lunch. We ended up at an AutoGrill turned Eataly branch. Bill and I visited the original Eataly food hall in Torino/Turin back in May 2008, when it was newly opened. It’s a really amazing place. Eataly now has locations in several different countries, including a few in the United States. Bill has also been to the one in New York City, which he managed to visit when he went there for a job interview in 2014.

Below are some photos from our drive…

Someone came up with a bright idea to marry an Italian AutoGrill stop with Eataly, so it offers Eataly’s products, a couple of fresh food options, and other cool stuff. AutoGrills usually have good food and free restrooms, but they also make you walk a gauntlet to get in and out. I didn’t mind doing that at the Eataly version. We picked up some stuff to bring home with us. This particular location doesn’t get the greatest ratings, but we had a good experience there. They have a broad range of food choices there, but we both had salads.

At some point near our lunch stop, I happened to notice a tractor trailer truck, decorated with the cast and setting of The Dukes of Hazzard. Italians are nuts about that show, as well as Little House on the Prairie. I noticed when we visited Italy in 2022 that both shows were airing during prime time. I didn’t see it aired during this visit, but the tractor trailer was a reminder. I ripped off a few photos, because I wasn’t quick enough to get shots of my own… Yes… I DID see this. It was BIZARRO.

After lunch we continued southward, stopping at another AutoGrill for gas and a pee break. There, I found a novel version of Ritter Sport, which is a German chocolate bar made in Waldenbuch, a suburb near Stuttgart.

All the while, I was keeping Carlo apprised of our progress, as I watched the weather and landscape change. The sun was shining, and we got beautiful views of the blue Adriatic Sea, as well as mountains. We passed San Marino, which I would have loved to have visited, as it’s its own country outside of Italy. I didn’t get the best photos, unfortunately…

Finally, we arrived in Pescara at about six o’clock in the evening. Carlo had told us to go to an address, and then input a different address. Apparently, GPS isn’t reliable with his destination. Once we arrived, he opened the locking gate for us and welcomed us to his B&B, which appeared to also be his home. I had reserved the biggest and most expensive room, called “Country Chic”.

Carlo explained everything to us in English, and invited us to our new home for four nights… As you can see from the first photo, his place is near the airport.

By the time we were settled, it seemed like too much of a hassle to go out again. Pescara was a bit hectic as we drove in, with lots of traffic and people on bikes and motorcycles edging for space on the crowded streets. Our journey had taken hours, and we were tired, so we decided to eat snacks, drink wine, and watch TV. I wasn’t that impressed with Pescara at first, but the drive down was nice. The Adriatic Sea is BEAUTIFUL.

We were well rested for the excitement of the next day. Stay tuned for the next post on that.

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A whirlwind trip to Austria, Italy, and probably Switzerland, part 9

Bill came back from his final meeting in Vicenza by 10:00am.  That meant we were free to pack up and leave.  I was pretty ready to go.  Don’t get me wrong.  Vicenza seemed like a nice town based on what little I saw of it.  I was just really looking forward to our hotel in Switzerland, which I had been eyeing for years.  That, and it seemed like the air quality in and around Vicenza was really terrible.  I noticed a lot of smog around Vicenza and Verona.

I hadn’t realized how long it was going to take us to get to Vevey, Switzerland.  For some reason, I think of the countries in Europe like states in America.  Like there will be big interstates connecting them easily.  That’s definitely not always true.  As it turned out, it took all day to get from Vicenza to Vevey.  We were forever stopping to pay tolls, too.  I think we paid about 50 euros worth just to get out of the country.  Then we had to take St. Bernard’s Pass, which was almost another 30 euros.

Our drive to Switzerland introduced me to the Auto Grill phenomenon.  Sure, I’d seen truck stops before, both in the United States and Germany.  For some reason, when Bill and I travel, we rarely stop at them.  We learned our lesson in Italy.  When you drive on the autostrada in Italy, you take a ticket at the beginning of your journey, then pay when you get off.  We got off the autostrada in Bergamo, searching for a place to have lunch.  We found no easy options, so we got back on the road.  I told Bill we should just stop and eat at an Auto Grill.  The first one we stopped at was just a snack bar.  The second one had a full service cafeteria style restaurant.

And, as to be expected in Italy, the food was pretty good.  I had chicken with fries.  Bill had salmon and potatoes.  I had a piece of yummy chocolate pie for dessert and Bill had some kind of delicious custard.  I know we have truck stops in the States, but this was pretty damn impressive.

The one and only Italian beer I drank in Italy.  Wine is ridiculously cheap and good there.  Beer is not their speciality, though this one wasn’t too bad.

The outside.  We had a lot of sun.

 

Auto Grills also offer relatively clean places to pee for free.  They also sell lots of stuff… stuff that I might even consider buying.  Seriously, they have all kinds of high quality Italian foods there, everything from sausages to dried mushrooms (yecch).  And you can get gas for your car, too.

Cool looking bridge as we headed toward Turin.  The following pictures are of the magnificent scenery, kind of ruined by the poor air quality.

When we had to pee again, Bill ended up at an Agip station.  We walked in and I was shocked to see a Confederate flag.  Yes, we were in Italy, not far from the Swiss border.  An Italian friend commented that perhaps the owners of the gas station were from southern Italy.  Who knows?  But you can buy your olive oil there, too.

I took a photo of these cheesy looking Italian liqueurs because they reminded me of something else.

The drive to the huge pass between Italy and Switzerland was absolutely beautiful.

I ran out of juice in my phone in the big tunnel.  I had just enough to tell people we made it to Switzerland before the damn thing conked out.

 

All in all, we had a nice time in Italy.  I’d like to go back, though maybe not to Vicenza… or maybe to a different hotel.  Don’t get me wrong.  I see why people like Hotel Victoria.  It’s great if you’re doing business or moving to Italy.  It’s also great if you want to shop, which is what I ended up doing.  But to see the actual town or do things without taking the bus or driving, you need to be located elsewhere.

I guess if Bill asked me to go back with him, I’d go, though.  We had wonderful food in Italy and I did pick up some great stuff for the kitchen and my wardrobe.  I didn’t spend a lot of money, either… except on the tolls!

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