house hunting, Sundays

Ten things I learned on our first Abruzzo trip– 2025!

Yesterday, I finished writing the “blow by blow” blog series about our trip to Abruzzo in Italy. We went there to look around and see what the condition of the area is, and whether or not we might be able to live there, whether it be as vacationers, or as permanent residents. We also stopped for a couple of nights in the Lugano area of Switzerland and Colle Isarco, near the Austrian border. I like to wrap up my blog series with a top ten list of things I learned. So, here we go with my top ten list for this trip!

10. The word “mance” in Italian means tip or gratuity.
As a general rule, Italians aren’t all that big on tipping. When you go to a restaurant, they usually charge a coperto (cover charge) that amounts to 1 to 3 euros per person. When you settle the bill, you go to a cashier, rather than paying your server. That said, we saw evidence that some people do appreciate tips. When I spotted a jar by a register that read “Mance”, I figured it meant “tips”. I looked it up, and sure enough, I was right. Bill slipped the lady a ten euro note, which earned him a big, bright smile of appreciation. How refreshing!

9. There is an Eataly style AutoGrill near Parma that is pretty nice.
Back in 2008, Bill and I went to Italy together for the first time. It was his first time ever, and my first time since 1997. We stayed near Turin/Torino, which is where the big Italian food store “Eataly” was launched. Yes, we visited, and it was amazing, although we didn’t load up nearly enough. Since then, Eataly has grown by leaps and bounds. Now, if you travel on the Autostrada near Parma, you can enjoy an Eataly style meal. The stop is only eastbound, though. The westbound lane has a regular AutoGrill location.

8. Riposo or pennichella is still pretty serious in Abruzzo.
Riposo (mid afternoon break, perhaps more familiarly known as “siesta” to Americans) is a thing in a lot of Mediterranean countries, although some areas take it more seriously than others. I noticed when we were in Abruzzo, a lot of businesses and restaurants shut down at about 1:00 PM for riposo. They reopened at 3:00 or 4:00. It took some getting used to.

7. Pescara is a hectic, yet convenient, base city.
I had a hard time choosing where to stay in Abruzzo, since we were going down there to see little towns where houses might be for sale. I wound up choosing Pescara, which I found really hectic. We did get used to it somewhat, and it’s convenient to a lot of places in Abruzzo.

6. If you stay at the Relais Castello Morcote in Vico Morcote, Switzerland, you can visit a vineyard and get beautiful photos and views of Lake Lugano!
You can also buy some delicious wines that are from Switzerland.

5. The Centro Ovale in Switzerland, near the Italian border, is a cool looking building that is now defunct!
I don’t know how I never noticed that former shopping mall on previous trips to Italy. We’ve been through that border a few times, but this time was the first one I noticed the architectural wonder that took longer to build than it was actually open for business!

4. Campione d’Italia is an Italian exclave surrounded by Switzerland.
I had heard of Campione d’Italia before our trip because I happened to see a video about it on YouTube. I hadn’t necessarily planned to visit there, but when I noticed how close it was to our location in Switzerland, I decided we should check it out. I’m glad we did. It’s a very interesting place, with a mixture of Italian and Swiss features. It is, officially, Italy, but it is entirely physically separated from the rest of Italy by Switzerland. However, it doesn’t take long at all to get to mainland Italy from there. It’s easy to reach by car and bus, and it’s the home of Italy’s only casino (which is a huge eyesore)!

3. March is a nice time to visit Italy, although it’s still considered the “low season.”
Abruzzo has a lot to offer visitors. There’s the Adriatic Sea and the Appenine Mountains, as well as access to interesting Italian cities and the cool tiny country of San Marino, which I hope to visit sometime. But one thing I noticed that was nice was that there were no tourists around, and I didn’t hear any Americans! That might be because of where we were, but it’s probably also because it’s March!

2. We got stared at in the tiny towns we visited…
It was pretty obvious we were outsiders in Abruzzo. We’re both lacking olive complexions and dark hair and eyes. When we visited the cute town of Gissi, people stared at us with curiosity, rather than aggression or hostility. We were conspicuous. In another town, the reception from one local seemed a bit menacing, so we left. They probably pegged us as Germans.

And finally… 1. Vipiteno is a great place to visit on the way back to Germany…
Vipiteno is in Italy, but it used to be part of Austria. It feels like one is in Austria, even though one is in Italy. And it’s a really great place to buy souvenirs and eat good pizza. When I go to Italy, I like to go to grocery stores and load up on goodies as much as I like to shop for other stuff. We definitely did so on this trip, but Vipiteno was especially handy. They had a great gourmet store with lots of local delicacies. And, we also got to see some snow before we headed back home!

*Honorable mention that I almost forgot–
There are harness racing horses (pacers) trained in Abruzzo. I had no idea, and was shocked when we ran across people training them on a little used (but open) road! I didn’t see anyone riding horses, but I did see a couple of sulkies! As a horse lover, it was kind of a thrill for me. I miss having a horse, even just to pet and hang out with. I’d love to have some land with a donkey and a horse to spoil.

All in all, we had a really nice trip. I’m still not sure what the future will hold for us, but I’m glad we visited Abruzzo. It’s a very beautiful part of Italy, although I can see why they are eager to get some people to buy cheap property there. It’s fairly depressed and in need of some “new blood”. I liked it, though. Maybe we’ll have a chance to visit again!

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    Moving onward to Abruzzo… (part three)

    Monday morning, we woke up to steady, cold rain. It would have been tempting to just stay in bed. But we had a long haul ahead of us, and I realized that morning that we had neglected to call the B&B where we were going to be staying and let them know of our plans. That had been specifically mentioned in the instructions when we booked Peperosa in Collina B&B, in Pescara, Italy. We were supposed to give 24 hours notice, but I forgot. It was Sunday, anyway.

    With some gentle prodding from yours truly, Bill was convinced to call the proprietor of the B&B, Carlo, and let him know when we expected to arrive in Pescara. Then we had breakfast… more of the same delightful cold cuts, juices, cheeses, and breads, accompanied by perfect cappuccinos. Bill ordered six bottles of wine from Tenuta Castello di Morcote, and we settled the bill.

    There was a neighbor of the hotel, picking up what appeared to be new shrubbery and landscaping. The truck belonging to the landscapers blocked the entrance to the hotel, so the receptionist asked them to move, so Bill could get our Volvo close to the door and collect our bags. The owner of the house retorted quite rudely to the receptionist, who came back in and was muttering in what I assume was an annoyed way. I couldn’t blame her. The neighbor seemed to be quite difficult and bitchy.

    Nevertheless, we managed to load up our vehicle and got on our way south. Lugano is pretty close to the border with Italy, so it wasn’t long before we were passing what used to be a pretty cool looking shopping mall called Centro Ovale. I didn’t know what it was as we were passing it, but it was a very striking structure. I looked it up and learned that it took longer to build this former shopping center than its days as a functioning business. It closed several years ago, but it still managed to turn my head. I had to zoom way in on Google Earth to find out what it was. Luckily, there was a picture of a sign for a parking garage for this weird looking mall. I didn’t get a chance to take a photo.

    After some time we decided to stop for lunch. We ended up at an AutoGrill turned Eataly branch. Bill and I visited the original Eataly food hall in Torino/Turin back in May 2008, when it was newly opened. It’s a really amazing place. Eataly now has locations in several different countries, including a few in the United States. Bill has also been to the one in New York City, which he managed to visit when he went there for a job interview in 2014.

    Below are some photos from our drive…

    Someone came up with a bright idea to marry an Italian AutoGrill stop with Eataly, so it offers Eataly’s products, a couple of fresh food options, and other cool stuff. AutoGrills usually have good food and free restrooms, but they also make you walk a gauntlet to get in and out. I didn’t mind doing that at the Eataly version. We picked up some stuff to bring home with us. This particular location doesn’t get the greatest ratings, but we had a good experience there. They have a broad range of food choices there, but we both had salads.

    At some point near our lunch stop, I happened to notice a tractor trailer truck, decorated with the cast and setting of The Dukes of Hazzard. Italians are nuts about that show, as well as Little House on the Prairie. I noticed when we visited Italy in 2022 that both shows were airing during prime time. I didn’t see it aired during this visit, but the tractor trailer was a reminder. I ripped off a few photos, because I wasn’t quick enough to get shots of my own… Yes… I DID see this. It was BIZARRO.

    After lunch we continued southward, stopping at another AutoGrill for gas and a pee break. There, I found a novel version of Ritter Sport, which is a German chocolate bar made in Waldenbuch, a suburb near Stuttgart.

    All the while, I was keeping Carlo apprised of our progress, as I watched the weather and landscape change. The sun was shining, and we got beautiful views of the blue Adriatic Sea, as well as mountains. We passed San Marino, which I would have loved to have visited, as it’s its own country outside of Italy. I didn’t get the best photos, unfortunately…

    Finally, we arrived in Pescara at about six o’clock in the evening. Carlo had told us to go to an address, and then input a different address. Apparently, GPS isn’t reliable with his destination. Once we arrived, he opened the locking gate for us and welcomed us to his B&B, which appeared to also be his home. I had reserved the biggest and most expensive room, called “Country Chic”.

    Carlo explained everything to us in English, and invited us to our new home for four nights… As you can see from the first photo, his place is near the airport.

    By the time we were settled, it seemed like too much of a hassle to go out again. Pescara was a bit hectic as we drove in, with lots of traffic and people on bikes and motorcycles edging for space on the crowded streets. Our journey had taken hours, and we were tired, so we decided to eat snacks, drink wine, and watch TV. I wasn’t that impressed with Pescara at first, but the drive down was nice. The Adriatic Sea is BEAUTIFUL.

    We were well rested for the excitement of the next day. Stay tuned for the next post on that.

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