Tag Archives: Eataly

house hunting, Sundays

Ten things I learned on our first Abruzzo trip– 2025!

Yesterday, I finished writing the “blow by blow” blog series about our trip to Abruzzo in Italy. We went there to look around and see what the condition of the area is, and whether or not we might be able to live there, whether it be as vacationers, or as permanent residents. We also stopped for a couple of nights in the Lugano area of Switzerland and Colle Isarco, near the Austrian border. I like to wrap up my blog series with a top ten list of things I learned. So, here we go with my top ten list for this trip!

10. The word “mance” in Italian means tip or gratuity.
As a general rule, Italians aren’t all that big on tipping. When you go to a restaurant, they usually charge a coperto (cover charge) that amounts to 1 to 3 euros per person. When you settle the bill, you go to a cashier, rather than paying your server. That said, we saw evidence that some people do appreciate tips. When I spotted a jar by a register that read “Mance”, I figured it meant “tips”. I looked it up, and sure enough, I was right. Bill slipped the lady a ten euro note, which earned him a big, bright smile of appreciation. How refreshing!

9. There is an Eataly style AutoGrill near Parma that is pretty nice.
Back in 2008, Bill and I went to Italy together for the first time. It was his first time ever, and my first time since 1997. We stayed near Turin/Torino, which is where the big Italian food store “Eataly” was launched. Yes, we visited, and it was amazing, although we didn’t load up nearly enough. Since then, Eataly has grown by leaps and bounds. Now, if you travel on the Autostrada near Parma, you can enjoy an Eataly style meal. The stop is only eastbound, though. The westbound lane has a regular AutoGrill location.

8. Riposo or pennichella is still pretty serious in Abruzzo.
Riposo (mid afternoon break, perhaps more familiarly known as “siesta” to Americans) is a thing in a lot of Mediterranean countries, although some areas take it more seriously than others. I noticed when we were in Abruzzo, a lot of businesses and restaurants shut down at about 1:00 PM for riposo. They reopened at 3:00 or 4:00. It took some getting used to.

7. Pescara is a hectic, yet convenient, base city.
I had a hard time choosing where to stay in Abruzzo, since we were going down there to see little towns where houses might be for sale. I wound up choosing Pescara, which I found really hectic. We did get used to it somewhat, and it’s convenient to a lot of places in Abruzzo.

6. If you stay at the Relais Castello Morcote in Vico Morcote, Switzerland, you can visit a vineyard and get beautiful photos and views of Lake Lugano!
You can also buy some delicious wines that are from Switzerland.

5. The Centro Ovale in Switzerland, near the Italian border, is a cool looking building that is now defunct!
I don’t know how I never noticed that former shopping mall on previous trips to Italy. We’ve been through that border a few times, but this time was the first one I noticed the architectural wonder that took longer to build than it was actually open for business!

4. Campione d’Italia is an Italian exclave surrounded by Switzerland.
I had heard of Campione d’Italia before our trip because I happened to see a video about it on YouTube. I hadn’t necessarily planned to visit there, but when I noticed how close it was to our location in Switzerland, I decided we should check it out. I’m glad we did. It’s a very interesting place, with a mixture of Italian and Swiss features. It is, officially, Italy, but it is entirely physically separated from the rest of Italy by Switzerland. However, it doesn’t take long at all to get to mainland Italy from there. It’s easy to reach by car and bus, and it’s the home of Italy’s only casino (which is a huge eyesore)!

3. March is a nice time to visit Italy, although it’s still considered the “low season.”
Abruzzo has a lot to offer visitors. There’s the Adriatic Sea and the Appenine Mountains, as well as access to interesting Italian cities and the cool tiny country of San Marino, which I hope to visit sometime. But one thing I noticed that was nice was that there were no tourists around, and I didn’t hear any Americans! That might be because of where we were, but it’s probably also because it’s March!

2. We got stared at in the tiny towns we visited…
It was pretty obvious we were outsiders in Abruzzo. We’re both lacking olive complexions and dark hair and eyes. When we visited the cute town of Gissi, people stared at us with curiosity, rather than aggression or hostility. We were conspicuous. In another town, the reception from one local seemed a bit menacing, so we left. They probably pegged us as Germans.

And finally… 1. Vipiteno is a great place to visit on the way back to Germany…
Vipiteno is in Italy, but it used to be part of Austria. It feels like one is in Austria, even though one is in Italy. And it’s a really great place to buy souvenirs and eat good pizza. When I go to Italy, I like to go to grocery stores and load up on goodies as much as I like to shop for other stuff. We definitely did so on this trip, but Vipiteno was especially handy. They had a great gourmet store with lots of local delicacies. And, we also got to see some snow before we headed back home!

*Honorable mention that I almost forgot–
There are harness racing horses (pacers) trained in Abruzzo. I had no idea, and was shocked when we ran across people training them on a little used (but open) road! I didn’t see anyone riding horses, but I did see a couple of sulkies! As a horse lover, it was kind of a thrill for me. I miss having a horse, even just to pet and hang out with. I’d love to have some land with a donkey and a horse to spoil.

All in all, we had a really nice trip. I’m still not sure what the future will hold for us, but I’m glad we visited Abruzzo. It’s a very beautiful part of Italy, although I can see why they are eager to get some people to buy cheap property there. It’s fairly depressed and in need of some “new blood”. I liked it, though. Maybe we’ll have a chance to visit again!

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    house hunting

    Moving onward to Abruzzo… (part three)

    Monday morning, we woke up to steady, cold rain. It would have been tempting to just stay in bed. But we had a long haul ahead of us, and I realized that morning that we had neglected to call the B&B where we were going to be staying and let them know of our plans. That had been specifically mentioned in the instructions when we booked Peperosa in Collina B&B, in Pescara, Italy. We were supposed to give 24 hours notice, but I forgot. It was Sunday, anyway.

    With some gentle prodding from yours truly, Bill was convinced to call the proprietor of the B&B, Carlo, and let him know when we expected to arrive in Pescara. Then we had breakfast… more of the same delightful cold cuts, juices, cheeses, and breads, accompanied by perfect cappuccinos. Bill ordered six bottles of wine from Tenuta Castello di Morcote, and we settled the bill.

    There was a neighbor of the hotel, picking up what appeared to be new shrubbery and landscaping. The truck belonging to the landscapers blocked the entrance to the hotel, so the receptionist asked them to move, so Bill could get our Volvo close to the door and collect our bags. The owner of the house retorted quite rudely to the receptionist, who came back in and was muttering in what I assume was an annoyed way. I couldn’t blame her. The neighbor seemed to be quite difficult and bitchy.

    Nevertheless, we managed to load up our vehicle and got on our way south. Lugano is pretty close to the border with Italy, so it wasn’t long before we were passing what used to be a pretty cool looking shopping mall called Centro Ovale. I didn’t know what it was as we were passing it, but it was a very striking structure. I looked it up and learned that it took longer to build this former shopping center than its days as a functioning business. It closed several years ago, but it still managed to turn my head. I had to zoom way in on Google Earth to find out what it was. Luckily, there was a picture of a sign for a parking garage for this weird looking mall. I didn’t get a chance to take a photo.

    After some time we decided to stop for lunch. We ended up at an AutoGrill turned Eataly branch. Bill and I visited the original Eataly food hall in Torino/Turin back in May 2008, when it was newly opened. It’s a really amazing place. Eataly now has locations in several different countries, including a few in the United States. Bill has also been to the one in New York City, which he managed to visit when he went there for a job interview in 2014.

    Below are some photos from our drive…

    Riunite on ice…
    Not a bad stop for a rest.
    Non alcoholic beer for Bill. I had wine.
    Tuna salad for me…
    Chicken salad for Bill…

    Someone came up with a bright idea to marry an Italian AutoGrill stop with Eataly, so it offers Eataly’s products, a couple of fresh food options, and other cool stuff. AutoGrills usually have good food and free restrooms, but they also make you walk a gauntlet to get in and out. I didn’t mind doing that at the Eataly version. We picked up some stuff to bring home with us. This particular location doesn’t get the greatest ratings, but we had a good experience there. They have a broad range of food choices there, but we both had salads.

    At some point near our lunch stop, I happened to notice a tractor trailer truck, decorated with the cast and setting of The Dukes of Hazzard. Italians are nuts about that show, as well as Little House on the Prairie. I noticed when we visited Italy in 2022 that both shows were airing during prime time. I didn’t see it aired during this visit, but the tractor trailer was a reminder. I ripped off a few photos, because I wasn’t quick enough to get shots of my own… Yes… I DID see this. It was BIZARRO.

    After lunch we continued southward, stopping at another AutoGrill for gas and a pee break. There, I found a novel version of Ritter Sport, which is a German chocolate bar made in Waldenbuch, a suburb near Stuttgart.

    Never seen one of these in Germany. It was good.

    All the while, I was keeping Carlo apprised of our progress, as I watched the weather and landscape change. The sun was shining, and we got beautiful views of the blue Adriatic Sea, as well as mountains. We passed San Marino, which I would have loved to have visited, as it’s its own country outside of Italy. I didn’t get the best photos, unfortunately…

    Finally, we arrived in Pescara at about six o’clock in the evening. Carlo had told us to go to an address, and then input a different address. Apparently, GPS isn’t reliable with his destination. Once we arrived, he opened the locking gate for us and welcomed us to his B&B, which appeared to also be his home. I had reserved the biggest and most expensive room, called “Country Chic”.

    Carlo explained everything to us in English, and invited us to our new home for four nights… As you can see from the first photo, his place is near the airport.

    Lots of rules!

    By the time we were settled, it seemed like too much of a hassle to go out again. Pescara was a bit hectic as we drove in, with lots of traffic and people on bikes and motorcycles edging for space on the crowded streets. Our journey had taken hours, and we were tired, so we decided to eat snacks, drink wine, and watch TV. I wasn’t that impressed with Pescara at first, but the drive down was nice. The Adriatic Sea is BEAUTIFUL.

    We were well rested for the excitement of the next day. Stay tuned for the next post on that.

    Rainbows are hopeful signs…
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    Planning a proper vacation in the midst of a pandemic…

    Love my tongue twister title today… Jeez! I’m on a roll!

    Bill wants to take some leave. Both of us need a break from Germany. Since COVID-19 appears to be on the rise again, winter is coming (and probably more cases and lockdowns), and we’re hoping to have a new dog in a few weeks, we figured now is the best time to get away for awhile. And although Italy was among the hardest COVID-19 hit nations a few months ago, it’s supposedly got things a bit more under control.

    Bill and I both love Italy. We also love Austria, and we haven’t been to Austria in ages. Our last couple of trips to Italy involved driving through Switzerland.

    I was looking at booking a place near Bolzano or maybe Meran. But the places I was finding seemed like a lot of slickly marketed, overpriced spots for young people looking to hook up. I suddenly remembered an absolutely wonderful bed and breakfast Bill and I visited in May 2008, when we were in Germany the first time. We found it because we wanted to go to Turin. I think Bill wanted to see the Shroud of Turin or something… I don’t remember what exactly prompted him to want to go to Turin.

    A little shrine near Bella Baita in 2008.

    Anyway, I started looking at places to stay and I found an ad for a place called Bella Baita, which is not in Turin, but on a mountainside near Pinasca and Pinerolo. It’s run by an American woman named Marla and her Italian husband, Fabrizio, both of whom are chefs. The price was right. In 2008, they charged 50 euros a night. I couldn’t help but notice that at that time on TripAdvisor, they didn’t have a single rating of less than five stars. Today, Bella Baita still gets mostly five star ratings (if not five, then four), and is still inexpensive at about 60 euros a night.

    Marla had also written a blog post about the then new food superstore, Eataly, which opened its flagship location in Turin. Eataly is now a bonafide chain and there are at least 40 locations around the world, including six in the United States. Bill visited the one in New York City in 2014, when he was there for a job interview. I have only been to the first one, opened in 2007 in Turin. It’s a really fabulous place.

    The Dom in Pinerolo, circa 2008…

    I was intrigued, so we booked four nights there. We ended up having an unforgettable experience. I have never stayed in another place like it. It was like visiting old friends… and the area is absolutely beautiful and uncrowded. We took a cooking class, went to the market in Pinerolo, and Bill learned how to prepare rabbit, although we haven’t ever had that at home. We also prepared a beautiful fruit tart.

    I remember having an incredible dinner in Pinerolo at a brand new restaurant called Perbacco, which I see is still running today. We found it while looking for lunch. They weren’t open for lunch, but grandma came out with a business card and strongly encouraged us to come in for dinner. I remember it being excellent, and the sommelier (who was also probably the owner) asking us why we’d be visiting Pinerolo when we could be in Rome, Florence, or Venice. And we told him that in those places, we would be among too many Americans. We then proceeded to have the most wonderful dinner coupled with lovely wine, and music from a video channel starring Duffy.

    At another place, where we had lunch, Bill earned the dismayed groans from a bunch of Italian men because he ordered prosciutto with cantaloupe for himself while I had nothing. They ended up bringing me a plate so I could share, even though I don’t like cantaloupe much. Italian men love women.

    I remember Marla telling me that we were staying in the “John Malkovich” room. Turns out the actor’s wife is from that area and he stayed there while visiting her family. Back in 2008, there was also a restaurant within Marla’s and Fabrizio’s house. It was called The Ant and The Giant (translated from Italian). It was an Italian couple– tiny wife with large husband. Marla said she didn’t think they’d stay in business long because they weren’t drawing much interest from the locals. Bill and I ate there, and I distinctly remember the “giant” expertly deboning a branzino (sea bass) fish for me at the table.

    Last night, as we were trying to figure out where to go in Italy, I asked Bill if maybe he’d like another trip to Bella Baita. There’s a lot to do in the area. It’s not far from where the ski events for the 2006 Winter Olympics were held. It’s also not far from France, where we visited a lovely town called Briançon, which has the distinction of being the highest city in France.

    This was taken from a paddle boat cruise on Lake Thun. It was so pretty, but so expensive!

    I sent Marla a message to see if things are operating down there where she is. If they are, we’ll probably design a road trip not unlike the one we did in May 2008. We drove from Stuttgart to a tiny Italian commune very close to Lake Como and the Swiss border called Pellio Intelvi. Pellio Intelvi, according to Wikipedia, no longer exists as of 2017. It’s now a “frazione” of Alta Valle Intelvi. We spent three nights there, about twelve miles on a mountain above Lake Como, then drove to the Piemonte region of Italy to Bella Baita, where we spent four nights. Then, on the way back to Stuttgart, we spent two nights in Lake Thun, Switzerland. Lake Thun is very beautiful, but it was my least favorite part of the trip. The Swiss didn’t impress us with the same style and warmth the Italians did… plus, it’s a hell of a lot more expensive there.

    This time, I’m thinking maybe we’ll drive from Switzerland, spend a night or two, then head to the Piemonte for at least three nights, then drive east to Bolzano or somewhere near there. Then, on the way back to Wiesbaden, maybe we’ll stop in Austria for a night or two. I think we have ten nights to play with for this trip. We’ll see what happens. I want to throw some money the Italians’ way, though. They could use the business, and we could definitely use the change of scenery. I also want to take a lot of pictures. In 2008, I didn’t take nearly enough!

    Wish us luck!

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    anecdotes, New York

    New York City…

    In a couple of weeks, Bill may have to visit New York City for the first time.  I’ve been there a few times, though my most recent visit was in March 1998.  I went there for a job interview.  If Bill goes there, he will also be interviewing for a job.

    In 1998, I was totally broke.  I had only been back from Armenia since September and was temping at the College of William and Mary, not making a whole lot of money.  I got a call for an interview in New York City, but I had to pay for transportation and lodging.  I ended up taking a train from Williamsburg, Virginia and staying in a cheap dive.  I want to say the place was called Hudson House, but I can’t remember for sure.   I found it in a New York City travel guide.

    I took the train to the Big Apple and managed to take the subway from Penn Station to the area where the hotel was.  I had booked a cheap room… it was $80 with a bathroom in the hall.  I got the sense I was the only one staying at the hotel, though, so it was no biggie.  The room was kind of drafty and cold, but had a TV and harsh fluorescent lighting.

    The interview was not successful, but I had an interesting two night jaunt in Manhattan… all alone.

    If Bill goes to New York, he’ll probably be very busy the whole time.  I expect the company interviewing will pay for his transportation and lodging and they’ll probably take him out to dinner.  It’s a big four consulting firm.  I feel pretty confident they will interview him, but he won’t know until next week.

    I’d like to go with him, since we’ve been wanting to visit New York for awhile now.  Maybe if he gets a job offer, we’ll take the time to go…  Chances are, if they do hire him, we’ll have to move.  But I’d like to go to New York just so we can visit Eataly.  We went to the flagship one in Torino.  Eataly is a very cool gourmet Italian store.  There are several locations in Italy now, but when we visited in 2008, it was still very new.  The store in Torino is amazing.  I’m sure the New York location is equally interesting, though probably ridiculously expensive.  Seems like a lot of things in New York are pricey.

    The other times I’ve been to New York, I went as a member of a choir.  Those were very different experiences, since we were there for a specific purpose and we were all in a group.  New York on your own is a solitary experience.

    I remember being in New York during a big snowstorm and being trapped…  we watched people skiing down Broadway.  I’ll probably never see anything like that again.  The first time I went to New York, I hated it.  But every time I’ve gone back, I’ve liked it more.  Paris had the same effect on me.

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