I told Bill I really needed an outing. We were thinking of hitting the Mineraltherme in Boblingen, a very nice spa near the Panzer Kaserne, but decided instead to head for Ludwigsburg, a pretty town about 15 miles from Stuttgart and maybe an hour’s drive from our house. We had been there before. When we lived in Germany last time, we bought wine from a small French vintner that sold his wines in Tubingen and Ludwigsburg. Bill signed up for emails and would order the wine, which sometimes meant he’d have to get it in Ludwigsburg.
This time, we were going there to go on a beer run at Heinrich’s Getranke Markt 3000, an enormous beer and wine store that also sells water and juice. In preparation for this booze run, we got some cash and headed north. On the way up there, someone passed us in a salmon pink colored Mini convertible. They honked at us. We’ve found that people who drive Mini Coopers act like they’re in a fraternity or something. They often wave and honk when we take my car. I think it’s funny.
Big drink market!
Those carts require two coins to operate. It’s to get people to put them back where they belong. They’re hard to steer, though.
A Penthouse keg? Sex sells…
Big haul!
I posted this photo on Facebook and asked what it was. The guesses were interesting. It turns out it’s plum liquor made with vodka. I’ve seen pictures of it and it comes with a condom on it. I guess you shoot it before you have sex. That’s one way to take the edge off. I think it would be funny to serve it with whipped cream on the end. I tasted it. It reminds me of strawberry Kool-Aid.
Anyway, we spent awhile shopping at the drink market and got lots of great beers, including one from Ghana that I’m dying to try. We also got some beer glasses. The place isn’t as well laid out as, say, Spec’s, but it has an impressive selection of suds. We left with lots of stuff to test and blog about, along with some old favorites.
German graffiti.
After our trip to the drink market, we went to downtown Ludwigsburg. Bill had to pee and I needed lunch. We took a shortcut through a mall and hit the restroom. As we approached, I pulled out the obligatory 50 euro cents and quipped, “You have to paaaaay.” That’s an inside joke. In 2009, I took several tours out of Edelweiss Lodge in Garmisch and the guide was a very annoying German woman who chain smoked and made quips about the need to pay to pee in Germany (and elsewhere in Europe).
After our potty break, we had a nice lunch on the square at an Italian restaurant. There was a lot going on today. Someone got married, so there were a lot of people around the church. A classic getaway car was parked there, adorned with flowers. Lots of people were having lunch and drinks on the square, listening to a small band of musicians playing.
It was a little chilly, but otherwise very pleasant. We really enjoyed ourselves… Since we have been reminded of the way, we’ll be back… if only to turn in the bottles.
Basil risotto with balsamic vinegar and cherry tomatoes.
Yesterday, while we were visiting Tübingen, we decided it was time for lunch. One of our favorite places to eat and drink in Tübingen is Neckarmüller, an awesome brewpub, restaurant, and biergarten. Neckarmüller is blessed with a great location, right next to the Neckar River. Although we have eaten lunch inside, when Bill and I go there, we usually sit outside in the biergarten, where there is a limited menu, lots of good beer food, and lots of smoking.
This photo doesn’t look too interesting… I was trying to get a closeup of the swan in the background, who was enjoying a snack.
See that guy standing in the middle of the boat? He’s in drag…
He was putting on quite a show…
He also came very close to falling into the water.
Last time we lived here, we used to love watching the people on the boats. There was a guy who worked the boats who had a great dog who used to jump into the boat and perch himself on the bow. We didn’t see him yesterday. I hope he’s still around. I loved watching them.
Simple beer food… The potato salad was delicious! The Bavarian weiss sausage was very fresh and had a delicate flavor. I was partial to the beer brats. The pretzel was excellent. Very fresh and soft and went great with the mustards. We had sweet and regular. There’s a more substantial menu inside the restaurant. You can get a table outside or inside, with views overlooking the river.
The Neckarmüller was very well-attended yesterday.
I wish we’d had a little more time yesterday. I would have liked to stroll along the Neckar River. We had great weather for it!
Line up for beer and food! I think the Neckarmüller must have undergone some renovations. Seems like last time we were here, the biergarten vendors were in a separate building that faced the river. They added on a WC that was much closer and more convenient than the old one was.
All in all, we had a nice time. As for the beer, it was pretty good. I have had more interesting beers elsewhere, but Neckarmüller’s offerings are solid and delicious. We’ll definitely be back again and again. It’s also one of our favorite places to bring guests.
Tübingen is a great city, especially if you want to go shopping. Bill and I love going to Tübingen for many reasons. One big reason we love that city is because of a cool store there called Vinum. Vinum carries all kinds of wines, beers, liquors, and even some gourmet foods. It’s not a huge store, but for the size it is, it has a pretty good selection! The atmosphere is very pleasant, too. The store is in an old, cool, cavern like building on Lange Strasse, very close to the big church in the middle of town.
Bill and I like going there for Belgian beers and unusual wines. They also carry an impressive array of whiskys. Not whiskey… whisky! As in scotch! I just ordered two bottles of scotch from Master of Malt, a great online store out of the UK. Otherwise, we might have restocked our scotch supply at Vinum.
Yesterday, when we were there, I noticed they were selling El Dorado, my favorite rum. It comes from Guyana and Bill and I discovered it in a grocery store in Bequia, a charming island in St. Vincent and the Grenadines. We didn’t buy any yesterday, but I think we’ll be picking some up soon. By the way, anyone who mixes 15 year old El Dorado in a cocktail is an amateur. That is pure sipping rum!
The front of Vinum.
Lots of delightful Belgian beers! We came home with a couple of big bottles! They also have a few beers from other places. I noticed a bottle of Sierra Nevada pale ale there, but we haven’t been out of the States long enough to want that yet.
Wine taps in the back room. You can buy a wine bottle for five euros and fill it with wine from one of the taps. Yesterday, the prices on the wines were anywhere from 3.95 to 4.25. You can also taste the wines before you dispense them. We came home with some very nice syrah.
I also picked up some mustard from France and some balsamic vinegar. They also have pasta, pesto, some exotic oils, and several interesting looking sauces from Italy.
Now that we’re back in Germany, I have a feeling we’ll be visiting Vinum a lot!
Last night, Bill and I decided to eat dinner in town because he was super tired from his trip to Chad and we didn’t really have much in the apartment by the way of dinner fixings. It appears that the two main restaurants, Hermes and Krone, were closed last night. They probably went on vacation, as is very common for restaurant folks to do in Germany during August. They just close up for two or three weeks and recharge. Personally, I think that’s a great thing. I’ve worked in restaurants and they can be pretty horrible if you want to have a life outside of work. I think it’s very healthy that restaurant owners in Germany take a break. Ultimately, it’s probably healthier for their patrons, too.
But given that we were in need of food last night, we had to find somewhere to dine. We ended up at a little hole in the wall bar/bistro obviously owned by Greeks. There were two rowdy tables of older folks there, holding court, drinking beer, and smoking. And when we walked in, the proprietor very kindly greeted us as we chose a table toward the back (away from the smoke).
At first, it seemed a little awkward in there… almost like we were crashing a party. But the regulars were actually very nice and eventually seemed kind of welcoming. One said “Guten appetit!” on his way to the restroom. And talk about cheap eats! Everything on the menu was priced at 5.50.
No frills eats!
This is what we got when we ordered the gyros!
I wasn’t able to eat all of this… and it was a little saltier than I like it. On the other hand, for 5.50 euros, it was quite a bargain and it was pretty good considering how cheap it was! We each enjoyed a couple of beers, which were also very reasonably priced. I can see why the locals like this place so much. I left there reeking of cigarette smoke, but I’d go back for the atmosphere. There was a large TV on the wall behind us tuned to action movies with Greek subtitles.
On the way back, we stopped at Netto!, the local mini mart, to pick up some Viennetta. I took a photo of the mural on the building opposite the store.
The mini mart was interesting. They had a lot of beer, wine, frozen foods, and a small produce section. One could also purchase hard liquor there. And there was a lady ahead of us who was apparently determined to pay entirely in small change!
And this very pretty traditional building, that appears to be part of a church…
We came back to the apartment with our ice cream treat. I always get a thrill in Germany when we find Viennetta. It used to be available in the United States and was marketed by Breyer’s. Now it’s marketed by Unilever. One thing Europeans do right is ice cream.
Yum!
Bill is without a rental car right now, so I guess we’ll be holed up in the apartment again today. Bummer. But at least we now know where a good local dive is for super cheat eats!
I felt like a new person after our first night in Landstuhl. We got up and had breakfast in Hotel Goldinger’s pretty dining area. Besides being a small hotel, this place is also a “Konditorei”, which means they make pastries there. I loved their dining room, which had the look of a garden or a solarium. The breakfast spread they offer to guests is also very nice, with smoked salmon, smoked trout, breads, cheeses, vegetables, juices, cereals, and fruits. They’ll even cook eggs and bacon if you want. Bill and I had a nice breakfast, overhearing a couple of professors from the University of Maryland who were apparently concerned about keeping their jobs because virtual education is taking over so much. Bill joined their conversation while I sat there thinking about what we’d do on our last real day of vacation.
I told Bill I wanted to visit Bacharach, which is an adorable town on the Rhein. I went there in 1997. In fact, it was the very first town I visited after my Peace Corps tour in Armenia, so it kind of holds a special place in my heart. I had to figure out trains in order to get there and that’s been a skill that has served me well.
Charming sign at the Landstuhl train station.
We bought tickets to Bacharach. Since it was a holiday, the tickets were pretty cheap, but it would take a long time to get there. First, we had to get to Kaiserslautern. Then, we had to take a train to Bingen. Finally, from Bingen, we would take a train to Bacharach. It would take about two hours.
Pretty castle in view of the Bingen train station…
The ride was pleasant, since there’s a lot of pretty scenery as you get close to Rhein country. It was a bit cloudy, but there were no major rain storms. It was a little chilly outside, but not so chilly that you’d need a jacket.
Bacharach is as adorable as I remembered it. It’s a well-preserved town with lots of medieval looking buildings and cobblestoned streets. There’s a beautiful castle on a hillside that now serves as a youth hostel. It’s an uphill hike to get there, so we opted not to go. Instead, we enjoyed the castle from afar.
Just off the train… you can see the youth hostel in the distance.
Adorable Bacharach…
We ate lunch at a cute little gasthaus. Bill had sauerbraten and I had roasted chicken. The lady who ran the restaurant was funny when she noticed Bill didn’t eat the beets in his salad. She gave me a postcard of the restaurant and said, “Here’s a souvenir for you.” Then she gave Bill the bill and said, “And here’s a souvenir for you…”
Lunch!
There’s not a whole lot to Bacharach, but it still managed to be a very special stop during our trip on account of the biergarten we visited.
Bacharach has a theater that also serves their own beer. The garten is under a bright tent that looks like it was once part of a carousel. Unbeknownst to us, on the day we visited, it was father’s day. In Germany, a lot of fathers and sons go hiking and then drink for awhile. A huge group of men were there and they had obviously been there awhile by the time we showed up. The cheerful waitresses brought out round after round of beer and schnapps. Occasionally, the men would toast or break into drunken singing. I happened to get some clips of their performances. Some of the guys singing were pretty good!
A video I made of our afternoon…
The beer was pretty good, too. I made our server beam when I ordered a mas krug– one full liter of beer. We spent several hours just hanging out and observing these guys who were obviously having a great time. At one point, Bill went to the men’s room and one of the guys in the German group started speaking to Bill. Bill told him in German that he doesn’t really speak the language very well. The guy switched to English and struck up a conversation. The guy was surprised we’d visit Bacharach and Bill told him that I had visited years ago and loved the town. I wanted Bill to see it.
Bill explained that he was about to retire from the Army and this trip was sort of our last hurrah. So then the man told Bill that he had been drafted to the German Army and ended up staying for about thirty years. He said his family had come from the East and the Americans helped them relocated to the West. Bill said the guy got choked up as he said he’d never forgotten what the Americans did for his family. I have to say, in these days when so many people have negative things to say about Americans and the military, it was really nice to hear something positive.
Another man had heard we were Americans living in Texas and he came over to talk to Bill while I was in the ladies room. It turned out the guy had spent a lot of time in Odessa and Midland, which is where the oil is/was.
Our trip to tiny Bacharach was yet another incidence in which we went to a small town that presumably has little to it and ended up having sort of a special day. The last time we took a hop to Germany– back in May 2012– we ended up visiting Rodange, Luxembourg, a seemingly boring suburb of Luxembourg City. We were annoyed about being there because we’d actually meant to go to France. But then it turned out to be one of the most memorable days of our trip because we had a great and cheap lunch at a little restaurant run by a Portuguese family. Then we ran into a “hen party”, where we saw a group of people dressed in drag and a diaper wearing woman with a rubber penis on her nose… I may have to repost my trip report from that hop, since I didn’t have my travel blog in 2012.
The trip back to Landstuhl was kind of long. First, we took the train from Bacharach to Bingen and were joined by a number of guys who had been at the biergarten with us. Then, when we got to Bingen, we were delayed for about 50 minutes because the train wasn’t scheduled to leave until 7:55 and we got there at about 7:00. The trip to Kaiserslautern also included a 20 minute cigarette break in Bad Kreuznach. By the time we got to Kaiserslautern, it was well after 9:00 and the next train to Landstuhl wasn’t for another 45 minutes.
I told Bill I wanted to take a cab back to the hotel. He balked, because he knew it would be a pricey trip. I finally won out, though, because it was kind of cold outside and getting late. The cab ride to Landstuhl was interesting, because I got to see just how much the massive number of Americans has affected both Kaiserslautern and Landstuhl. We even passed a placed that served American style fried chicken!
I kind of wish we’d stayed in Bacharach and explored the Rhein more. Maybe if we get back to Germany, Bill and I will be able to do that. I also still have yet to see the famous Medieval town of Rothenburg, so that may be reason to take another hop to visit Germany if we don’t end up moving back there someday.
This was in the foyer of the theater where the restrooms were located… From a distance, they looked like real people!
Bill decided he wanted to go out for lunch today, so off we went to the brand new Big Hops Gastropub. Prior to opening the Gastropub, Big Hops was known as a “growler station”. You could go there and fill up on exotic craft beers. Bill heard about them opening a restaurant and decided we needed to check it out.
First impressions… We seated ourselves at a table and I immediately noticed the great music. They were playing classic rock, which goes great with American craft beers. Everything here in is on draft and from the USA. But don’t come here looking for Lone Star or Shiner Bock. These beers come from smaller breweries.
Bill checks out the computer monitor for beer choices. There are two of them on the walls. Some say they are hard to read, but we didn’t have any trouble.
The menu.
A shot of the beer menu on the wall.
My first beer. This was a Schwarzbier from Live Oak Brewery. Quite nice! I like the little beer keg glass, too.
Caedmon’s Ale from BS Brewing for Bill…
The waitress talked us into these insanely delicious Wisconsin Cheddar Cheese Curds. They were $10, served with house made ranch dressing. Sinful and addictive as hell. We did bring about a third of them home.
Bill’s Korean BBQ served on a steam bun. It had cucumbers and pickled cabbage. He liked it.
My Tinga… Basically chicken in a spicy sauce with onions, cheese, tostadas, and a side of sour cream. I couldn’t eat all of this. It was very spicy and I had filled up on the curds.
Bill’s Odell 90 Schilling Scotch Ale. He wasn’t that impressed with this…
Prairie Ale’s Vanilla Noir… $10, served in a snifter, and 12.5% ABV. Positively awesome! I am loving Oklahoma’s Prairie Ales.
Someone got cute in the ladies room… Not me.
My third beer… a Deschutes Black Butte Porter. This was a nice way to cap off our first trip to Big Hops.
We left with two 32 ounce growlers.
Enjoying the Stone right now… We spent about $100, including the two 32 ounce growlers, lunch, and lots o’ beer.
All in all, we really enjoyed visiting Big Hops. We had a good server who knew the menu and the beers very well. She was laid back and not stressed and I was impressed that she knew about Prairie Ale’s Bomb, which is fucking fantastic. The atmosphere was not all that exciting, but I did like the beers on offer and the music– nice mix of heavy metal and classic rock with a few TVs showing sports. The food is good, but be warned that there’s not anything on the menu that is vegan friendly. Vegetarians might also be challenged. Big Hops doesn’t take American Express and is discontinuing a couple of items on the menu. Still, I think in time, this is going to be a very happening place in San Antonio. I bet we’ll be back.
If you read today’s Overeducated Housewife post, you know that last night Bill and I met up with one of Bill’s former co-workers and his wife. Bill and I had been wanting to try Blue Star Brewing Company near downtown San Antonio. A friend of ours from Houston who is into craft beers kept telling us to try it. So we finally took the plunge last night…
This is a photo of the front of the restaurant…
Blue Star Brewing is in a small artsy community. I noticed a couple of other bars/restaurants nearby and art galleries. We didn’t take the time to go exploring, since our companions were going to be joining us. Upon entering the restaurant, we were asked if we preferred indoor or outdoor seating. Since it was a beautiful evening, we opted to sit outside. We sat at a picnic table with a nice view of the Riverwalk.
The menu.
We perused the menu while we waited for our friends. There were several tempting looking dishes being offered. Blue Star has a number of burgers that are made with bison and beef. They have salads, barbecue, some Tex/Mex inspired dishes, and other comfort foods.
A Raspberry Geyser
The first beer I tried was the very refreshing and somewhat low boozed Raspberry Geyser. It had 3.8% ABV. This beer is no doubt popular with the ladies as it doesn’t taste much like beer. It’s more like a Belgian lambic. I found it very refreshing and it was probably my favorite beer of all those I tried last night. The waitress did offer to bring me a taste before I ordered, but I decided I’d take a chance.
Bill’s Flying Pig Extra Pale Ale was a hit. It was crisp, refreshing, and hoppy.
Our friends arrived as we were enjoying the first round. We ordered hummus to snack on while we decided on dinner. The hummus was good, but the bread was a little hard. I was worried about eating too much of it because I just had a crown prep done and didn’t want to break my temporary crown… or any teeth! More veggies would have been nice, since there was a lot of hummus, but not much to eat it with.
My second beer. This was called Close Encounter. It’s a sour beer made with prunes and tamarind. Bill was put off by the prunes, but it was a nice beer that came in at 4.8% ABV. I would have liked a bigger glass. A snifter is fine with a really strong beer that knocks you on your ass, but this didn’t seem to warrant the small glass it came in.
I had fish and chips. The fries were good– garlicky with just enough salt. The fish was fine, though it doesn’t rival anything you’d find in England. It arrived to me a little cool, as if it had sat for a bit.
Bill enjoyed his pulled pork sandwich. I didn’t taste it.
I also tried the Texican lager, but forgot to take a photo of it. That’s just as well, since I thought it was the least interesting of all the beers I tried. It arrived to my table with almost no head and was a bit on the watery side. At 4% ABV, it’s not too strong… but I didn’t think the flavor was all that inspiring. It makes for a nice hot weather beer, though. It will probably rehydrate you better than a boozier beer will.
The stout was yummy!
I wasn’t so put off by the Texican to skip trying the Spire Stout with dessert. This stout went very well with the chocolate cake. In fact, I probably should have just had two stouts and skipped the cake. It wasn’t all that great. Bill had the cheesecake, though, which was nice. It wasn’t too sweet or super heavy, which made it pleasant on a warm March evening. In all, the bill for Bill and me came to about $83 before the tip.
A couple of quick shots of the inside of the restaurant. I was trying not to be too conspicuous.
The bar area looked inviting.
I enjoyed the snarky signs posted around Blue Star’s parking area. You can park yourself or use the complimentary valet. We used the valet.
Blue Star rents bikes or you can take one of the ones the city rents. I’m impressed with San Antonio for copying Europe and offering public bikes. I would have probably enjoyed a Riverwalk stroll too, if we hadn’t already been out for a few hours and our two dogs didn’t need a pee break.
When we got home, there was a big truck parked outside our house. Not two minutes after we entered our dwelling, the doorbell rang. It was two Hispanic guys who were probably looking for the previous tenants. They weren’t threatening. Probably were hoping for a crash pad. It made Bill nervous, though.
All in all, last night was a lot of fun. I’d go back to Blue Star Brewery, though there are other craft brewers whose beers have impressed me more. Also, while service was friendly and accurate, it was a bit on the slow side. But we weren’t in a hurry and we weren’t rushed, so I can overlook that for a Saturday evening.
Checking out Czech beer in more ways that I ever thought possible
Feb 16, 2009 (Updated May 15, 2009) Review by knotheadusc in Hotels & Travel
Rated a Very Helpful Review
Pros:Fun, very reasonably priced, beer baths
Cons:Glitchy online booking, not near public transport, slightly corporate feel
The Bottom Line:Czech out Czech beer at Chodovar! It does your body good, both inside and out!
This review will definitely NOT be lean n’ mean!Those of you who have been around for awhile may remember a now defunct shampoo called Body On Tap. Created in 1978 by Bristol-Meyers products, Body On Tap’s list of ingredients included beer, a not so secret ingredient that was supposed to make hair soft and shiny. I remember seeing the ads for that shampoo as a little kid and hearing the warning that I shouldn’t drink it! I always wondered if beer really did do such great things for the hair.
Thirty years later, I’ve just had the chance to find out about the wonderful things beer can do for my hair and skin. My husband Bill and I took advantage of President’s Day weekend at Chodovar Beer Spa and Brewery in Chodova Plana, Czech Republic. Let me tell you, the folks at Chodovar are onto something. Business is booming at their beer spa and when we were done there, my hair was definitely better off for the experience.
The Chodovar Brewery
The Chodovar Brewery, located just beyond the German border, has been around since 1573. In 1992, the Chodovar brewery became a limited liability company owned and operated by four partners: RNDr. Tomáš Zuckermann, Jiøí Plevka Sr., Jiøí Plevka Jr. and Jan Plevka. As Bill and I drove through Chodova Plana and the surrounding areas, we could see that many of the local bars and restaurants served Chodovar beer.
Though the Chodovar Brewery has been making “suds” for centuries, it’s only been in the beer spa business since 2006, when it started offering beer baths as a spa treatment. I learned about the Chodovar beer spa watching the Czech Republic episode of Three Sheets, a travel/drinking show that was aired on the now defunct channel MOJO HD and is currently available to be downloaded on iTunes. The host, Zane Lamprey, traveled to Chodovar for a beer bath as a means to cure the wicked hangover he got from drinking too much Czech beer and absinthe. Because Bill and I are living in Germany and we had already been to Prague and Cesky Krumlov, we decided the long weekend was the perfect excuse to try out this unusual mode of beer tourism.
The hotel
It’s safe to say that the Chodovar Brewery pretty much makes up the whole town of Chodova Plana. Luckily, the Hotel U Sladka, owned and operated by the brewery, is part of the Chodovar beer spa experience. The three star hotel is a fairly basic but very economical affair. There are currently 120 rooms. Singles, doubles, triples, and even quad rooms are available. Pets can also be accommodated for a small fee.
Bill and I booked a double. Our room was small, but very clean. It had a direct dial phone, television with about ten Czech channels and the hotel’s own brewery channel, and free Internet access (bring your own cable). The bed was the typical European type, two twin beds pushed together. It wasn’t the best bed I’ve ever slept on, but it was comfortable enough. There was also a very cheap minibar stocked with Chodovar products (beer and mineral water). Beer was priced at 20 Czech crowns ($1) and mineral water, including a delicious orange variety, was 18 Czech crowns (about 90 cents).
The bathroom had an excellent shower with great water pressure and a knobby floor that massaged my feet. There was a towel warmer and two soap dispensers full of Chodovar’s own shower gel… made with beer, naturally! Bill and I came home with a whole range of Chodovar beer cosmetics: shampoo, shower gel, balsam, bubble bath, and even the makings for our own beer bath.
Breakfast is included in the price of the room. It consists of a variety of delicious sausages and salamis, cheeses, hard boiled and scrambled eggs, breads and pastries. You can get a thermos full of Tchibo coffee or use the coffee machine, which makes espresso drinks and hot chocolate. Tea and juice are also available.
There is free unsecured parking in front of the hotel or you can park in the secure lot behind the hotel. The secured lot costs 70 Czech crowns a night (about $3.50), but the lot is locked and presumably very safe from criminals.
Booking the Beer Spa
The first thing to say about the beer spa is to make sure you book it in advance! The Chodovar Brewery has a revamped Web site that will allow you to book online. My advice is to skip the Web site and call the hotel directly. Bill and I decided to visit Chodovar a bit on a whim and requested a reservation ten days in advance. We tried to use the Web site, but got nervous when we didn’t get an immediate confirmation. We called the reception about an hour after we booked and were told that they hadn’t yet received our request through their Web site. We ended up booking our room and beer bath over the phone.
I didn’t actually get a confirmation from the online service until the next day. The receptionist didn’t realize we had already booked over the phone and wrote that the beer baths were fully booked through the weekend. She explained that they recommended booking the beer baths up to four months in advance. I don’t know if that’s really necessary, but I will say that there were no free appointments for the baths the whole time we were there. In other words, if we had just shown up at the hotel, we probably would not have gotten into the spa. It was a good thing we called and snagged our spot when we did. We had gotten the last available appointment on Saturday. It didn’t appear to me that treatments were offered on Sundays.
There are several single tubs available and one double sized tub for couples. Those who want to use the double tub may want to bear that in mind when planning a trip to Chodovar.
Our Beer Bath experience
Since the double sized tub was booked, Bill and I arranged for two single baths. The smell of fresh beer wafted through the air in the foyer as we rang the doorbell by the spa. We were welcomed by a very friendly spa worker who asked us to remove our shoes. She showed us to dressing rooms and asked us to completely disrobe and wrap up in a sheet. The dressing rooms have lockers and showers in them.
Bill and I came out of the dressing rooms looking like we were headed to a toga party. Another spa worker showed us to our individual tubs, which had already been prepared for us. She drew a curtain around us, leaving the one between the tubs open so we could share the experience!
Our large tubs were full of a warm, foamy, mixture of the spa’s own dark bath beer and mineral water. It smelled of beer, but not offensively so. I found the bath very pleasant and relaxing, as pop music played over the sound system and other couples took their places in their own beer baths. One thing Bill and I both noticed was that we floated a bit! While we soaked in our baths for 20 minutes, we each sipped a .33 liter glass of non-pasteurized Chodovar beer. Supposedly the beer works as a digestive. All I know is that after drinking that beer, I really needed to pee before I got out of the tub!
After 20 minutes, a spa worker pulled the plug on our tubs. We wrapped up in our sheets again and she led us to a dark, quiet room where there were a number of lounges separated by soothing lamps. We laid down on the lounges and the spa worker swaddled us in a fleece quilt, where we were supposed to rest for another twenty minutes. The spa workers served us another glass of beer, which made me have to pee even more! I ended up getting up a little early so I could go relieve myself.
My impressions of the Beer Baths
The extreme need to whiz kind of dampened my ability to relax during the beer bath treatment, but I’d definitely do it again. The bath was very relaxing and fun. And ladies, I recommend letting your hair get wet. After my hair dried, it was incredibly soft and shiny. My skin also felt soft and smooth.
Massages and other spa stuff
Bill and I booked massages, which are also very much in demand. At first, the receptionist told me that because they were booked, we could each only get so-called “simple” massages, which last for 20 minutes. But then she told me that a time slot for a 50 minute “complex” massage was also available. Bill had never had a massage before and was a little skittish about it, so I took the complex massage while he stuck with a simple one. In addition to simple and complex massages, there are also lava stone and foot massages available.
The first thing to know about massages at Chodovar is that they involve almost completely disrobing. The second thing to know is that the Europeans have a lot fewer hang ups about nudity than Americans do. Bill got his massage from a lady, while mine was given by a young man. Neither spoke much English, though the lady did speak a little German. The man who gave me my massage saw me in nothing but a pair of undies, which frankly made me feel a little bashful. However, he was very professional and gave me a very thorough massage. He was also quite pleased when I gave him a tip. The last thing to know is that the pervasive scent of human body odor pretty much trumps the scent of the beer bath… or at least it did when I had my massage. Luckily, my nose shut off halfway through the treatment.
In addition to massages, Chodovar also offers what they call “remedial packs”, which basically involves being wrapped up in malt draff. Bill and I did not try this treatment, though we thought it sounded interesting.
Dining options
I mentioned that the Chodovar Brewery is pretty much the only game going in Chodova Plana. We also couldn’t help but notice that the management seemed very big on marketing and looked like they’d taken a few corporate cues from Anheuser-Busch (now owned by InBev). In any case, there are two restaurants run by the resort. There’s Stará Sladovna (Old Malt House), which is in a brick house located right across the secured parking lot, and Ve Skále, which is about 250 meters from the hotel and housed in an 800 year old cave-like rock labyrinth that used to serve as a beer cellar. Ve Skále also houses a very small museum and gift shop, where patrons can buy Chodovar’s beer cosmetics, apparel, and other paraphernalia.
Both restaurants serve traditonal hearty Czech food, which means lots of meat, poultry, potatoes, and gravy! And there’s also plenty of beer on draft, as well as mineral waters and bottled non-alcoholic brews. Ve Skále is definitely the more unique option, but it’s a little bit of a hike from the hotel that I didn’t find very pleasant in the frigid cold. If the weather had been warmer, it would have been a nice walk.
Be advised that smoking is allowed in both restaurants and seating is such that you might find yourself sharing a table with people you don’t know. Both restaurants feature long tables with benches and chairs. During our two occasions dining at Ve Skále, Bill and I shared our table. The first time was with a young Czech man who seemed very intent on showing his date how smart he was. The second time was with a German man from Berlin who seemed surprised to find Americans in Chodova Plana. We did not share our table at Stará Sladovna.
Food is very reasonably priced. For example, our first night, we ate at Stará Sladovna and had two good sized entrees and four beers between us. We left the restaurant very satisfied and only spent about $25. But as it’s a brewery, we did find that the servers really pushed the beer! We didn’t find that a bad thing since neither of us had to drive anywhere afterwards. We also noticed that the male members of the staff really appeared to enjoy the brewery’s product. My beer gut definitely had lots of company.
Things to do around Chodova Plana
At this writing there’s not that much to do in the town of Chodova Plana, though I’ve heard the management has big plans for expanding Chodovar’s facilities. Brewery tours are available every day at 2:00pm, but Bill and I decided to skip it since we figured it would either be conducted in German or Czech.
Luckily, Chodova Plana is within driving distance to several decent Czech cities. After our beer spa treatments, we drove to Karlovy Vary (Karlsbad), which is about an hour away from Chodova Plana. The drive to Karlsbad from Chodovar is very scenic. You drive through a lovely evergreen forest flanked by a rushing stream that winds its way to a large lake. We thought the drive was especially gorgeous since there was a lot of snow on the ground. Karlsbad is a well known spa city and we saw lots of people using little ceramic pitchers to capture and drink spring water from fountains scattered around the downtown area. The architecture in Karlsbad is very beautiful and one can purchase spa wafers and Becherovka liqueur there as well as take in a massage or spa treatment at one of the many outlets. Shopping also appeared to be great there.
On Sunday, we drove to Plzen, which is also roughly an hour’s drive from Chodova Plana. Plzen is not as beautiful as Karlsbad is, but it is a place to go if you’re into beer. We ended up touring the Pilsner Urquell beer museum and ate lunch at the museum’s restaurant, where we got free samples of Pilsner Urquell beer. Plzen is also a good spot for history buffs. It did my heart good to see a huge memorial thanking American soldiers for liberating the city on May 6, 1945.
After our brief visit to Plzen, we drove back to Karlsbad, where we bought a painting from a Russian artist who was selling his wares on the street. The artist lives in Prague, which is also within a reasonable driving distance.
The area also offers excellent opportunities for hiking and viewing wildlife. We spotted birds of prey, herds of deer, a couple of foxes, and, on the way into Plzen, two rather discreet prostitutes. If you like castles, old churches, and museums, you’re also in luck.
In conclusion
We had an awesome time in Chodova Plana at the Chodovar Brewery– Beer Wellness Land. And our trip was very affordable. For three nights of lodging, parking, two beer baths, two massages, an array of beer cosmetics, and two beers and two mineral waters from the mini bar, we spent the Czech crown equivalent of $309! Factoring in food, beer, and the painting we bought, we spent a grand total of $570 on our three day weekend.
That said, there are a few caveats I will issue to American travelers. First, it helps to speak a little German if you don’t speak Czech. We only ran into one employee who spoke English, although English menus are available in the restaurants and some of the promotional materials are written in English. Second, the closest ATM is located about 3 kilometers from the hotel. The hotel does accept credit cards, though I read in another review that one of the restaurants doesn’t yet take them. Third, it’s best to have a car. The town is a bit off the beaten track and I didn’t spot any public transportation facilities nearby. And finally, while Chodovar’s Web site offers online booking, it’s probably best to call them for reservations. We found their online booking system to be a bit glitchy.
Overall, Bill and I had a fantastic experience and would recommend Chodovar to those who love beer, spas, or both!
I decided I wanted to go out and try a different burger joint today. Bill and I decided to go to Old West Burgers in the Shavano Park area of San Antonio off the 1604 Loop. I had noticed this place from the car last time we drove past that area. It has a very simple Web site which is pretty much just the menu, but I had read some reviews of the place that made it sound appealing and different.
We walked in at about 2:30pm and a friendly guy behind the counter welcomed us and asked how he could help us. I said we’d never been there before, so he gave us a quick lowdown on what they had to offer. They specialize in burgers and offer everything from the regular beef burgers to chicken to even vegan varieties. They also offer salads. I really wanted a burger so I ordered the guacamole burger ($7.99), while Bill got the jalapeño burger ($7.99). All burgers come with fries, but if you want to pay a little more (99 cents), you can get tater tots or sweet potato fries. Bill got regular fries but I got the tater tots. Then we each ordered beers. Old West Burgers has a pretty good selection, especially of Texas beers.
I had a Santos…
Bill had a Ballast Point IPA…
Nice bar area overlooks a pleasant outdoor seating area… There’s also a playground for kids.
Huge projection TV!
Modern country music blared over the sound system as we looked around at the spacious dining room. There was only one other couple sitting in the restaurant, so our food was up pretty quickly.
Guacamole burger with tater tots… It was absolutely delicious, juicy, with excellent homemade, fresh rolls. The tater tots were also very good. I struggled to finish the sandwich, but was feeling good when I was finished.
Jalapeño burger had a cheese and jalapeño bun, also homemade, as well as jalapeño peppers on top. Bill pronounced it outstanding.
A view of the back wall.
The shopping center where this place is located… 4553 N.W. Loop 1604
Bill and I could definitely see ourselves going back for another burger at Old West Burgers. The service was fast and friendly and the burgers were very satisfying. I especially loved the buns. It’s not so easy to get there, but it was definitely worth the trip. I think Chester’s Hamburger Company has a better beer selection, but I definitely preferred the burgers and fries offered at Old West Burgers. I’m glad I got the urge for an outing! Looks like they also have events.
I love Beligum. I went there for the first time in September 2008, when Bill sent me a pissy email after a particularly bad month at work. The email read, “I think we should go see Mannekin Pis over Labor Day weekend.” We went to Belgium by train and had a blast!
We had quite the drunken long weekend, traipsing from Brussels to Bruges and back…
When we lived in Germany, we visited Belgium a couple more times. It’s really my kind of place. Exquisite beer, excellent frites, chocolate, and smutty humor makes me want to go back again and again. Unfortunately, San Antonio is not near Belgium… or is it?
A few weeks ago, I found a review for a Belgian restaurant in the Southtown area of San Antonio called La Frite. Remembering how much I love Belgium and its fantastic beers, I vowed that we would pay this place a visit. Yesterday, I asked Bill if he was ready for some frites. He said yes. So we made a reservation for 6:30pm.
As it turned out, parking around La Frite is much more simple than we realized. But we drove around looking for a legal place to park for about fifteen minutes before I finally went into the restaurant to ask. Apparently, on a Saturday night, it’s okay to park at the United Way, which is located next door. I don’t know what one does at lunch time, but La Frite only offers lunch Tuesday through Friday (11:30-1:30). Dinner is offered Tuesday through Friday (6:00-10:00). On Saturdays (6:00-10:00), they only offer dinner and they are closed on Sundays and Mondays. Dress is casual.
We were a little late for our reservation, which I strongly recommend making for a Saturday night visit. It was getting busy as we were seated and by the time we left at about 8:30, it was positively packed! The restaurant does have a small bar area, but it doesn’t look like there are many places to sit there and, in fact, there’s nowhere to congregate if you have to wait for a table.
This is also not the place to go for a romantic evening, though the interior of the obviously historic restaurant is very charming. At one point during our meal, I commented to Bill that the noise level in the dining room reminded me of a school cafeteria! There was a table full of teachers sitting next to us who seemed to be having a great time. They seemed to represent teachers from elementary school to university.
The front of the restaurant…
Beer menu!
Bill started with a Kwak, while I tried the seasonal beer… a Wolf Christmas Ale. These two brews packed quite an alcoholic wallop! The Wolf was especially potent at about 9 percent alcohol by volume.
We opted to skip starters because I knew I would want another beer and I had heard La Frite’s portions were large. I went with the batter fried lobster tail, served with frites and seasonal vegetables that included carrots, zucchini, and broccoli. This was a very nice dish at $26, but what I really enjoyed were the dipping sauces. There was ketchup, of course, and what tasted like a cucumber dill sauce for the frites. The lobster came with a lemon beurre sauce that really made it great! We ate bread and butter as we waited for the entrees. Click the link if you want to read about why Kwak is usually served in a special glass with a stand.
I had already eaten some of this lobster when this photo was taken. The first one I took before I started eating was blurry.
Bill had a hangar steak, which was really good. It was very tender and flavorful. He also had frites and veggies.
I enjoyed a Kwak while we waited for dessert.
Bill enjoyed a lemon tart. All desserts are $7 and they had several to choose from.
I had chocolate mousse. It was just the right amount.
Cool bistro mural on the wall…
That painting reminded me of anchovies… or sperm.
The menu had quite a few tempting options. I might have chosen the duck breast with berry glace over the lobster or maybe the fruits de mer, which was served with puff pastry and a creamy white wine sauce. There is also a prix fixe menu that was attractive last night. It includes three courses for $39. I might have gone for that except none of the three appetizers really appealed to me and I really wanted to try the lobster tail. The waiter did say we could order parts of the prix fixe menu too. Several unique entree options were available, though, that were specials for last night.
At one point, a group of festive bikers passed on their bikes, all lit up with Christmas lights!
We left the restaurant nicely satisfied and with a bill under $100 before tip. I would definitely go back again, though next time, I might brave the moules (mussels) instead!
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