I didn’t do any writing yesterday because I wanted to put up the Christmas crapola. I usually put them up around Thanksgiving, but one of our neighbors already has up their Christmas lights. I like the way the lights look and didn’t feel like waiting. So I hauled our two trees up the steps from the basement and did the yearly decorating ritual.
Christmas in Germany is usually kind of a magical time of year. There are usually markets, which have rides, ice skating, food, and lots of unique gifts for sale. This year, thanks to COVID-19, the markets won’t be happening. Wiesbaden won’t have its adorable market in the big square, pictured above. Our little town of Breckenheim won’t have its one night event where everyone gathers for Gleuwein (hot mulled or spiced wine) and Lebkuchen (gingerbread). I suppose some people will still do that privately, but one of the nicest things about living in Germany is the community spirit here. I love going to fests and seeing people enjoying themselves. Thanks to the virus, we can’t this year. Just across the Rhein River in Mainz, though, there is hope for a new vaccine that will help us get back to living.
I have not left our neighborhood since early October. I don’t even remember the last time I was in downtown Wiesbaden. I’m reminded of the first time we lived in Germany and almost never visited downtown Stuttgart. I never even got a good look at that city during the first two year stint we spent in Germany from 2007-09. Now, I know Stuttgart pretty well, thanks to all of the traveling and exploring we did when we lived there the second time.
Last night, I told Bill that I would probably spend some money this year on Christmas. Last year, we spent money because we traveled to Nimes in France to see my friend Audra, and her family. This year, we can’t travel, so maybe it’s time I bought some stuff that make being at home better. I’m sure the economy could use the stimulation.
Here are a few photos from yesterday’s decorating drill…
Phew…
All done…
Time for a G&T…
Why do I have two Christmas trees? It’s because when we moved to Germany in 2007, I somehow forgot to pack our Christmas decorations. We ended up buying a fake tree at the PX in Stuttgart. That little tree, which really should be plenty for a couple like us, has followed us around ever since. I remember it was pre-lit with 220 bulbs, which I cut off when we moved to Georgia in 2009. Then when we moved to Texas, we got rid of our original tree, which I bought from Rose’s discount store in Fredericksburg, Virginia (we were broke in 2002). I got the new tree– the lovely fake Costco version which is so much easier to put together because the branches don’t detach.
I have never had a “real” Christmas tree. Mom didn’t like them because they were messy. I also used to love decorating for Christmas, but now I can see why Mom gave me that job when I was growing up. It’s tiresome, especially when it’s only for us. However, I do like to look at the lights. Mom also ran her own cross-stitch, needlepoint, and knitting business in Gloucester, Virginia, which she’d have to decorate for Christmas. She’d get a florist to come to our house and put up real pine garlands on our porches and hang pine wreaths. It was very pretty, but I’m sure it was expensive and exhausting, too. Incidentally, my mom made our stockings, too, although we never bothered to hang them when I was a kid. I can remember some years, my mom had me wrap my own presents! And I actually suck at wrapping presents, so they looked pretty terrible.
I guess it makes sense that I’d be kind of spiritless at Christmas. My mom always treated the holiday like a chore. She was also a musician, so she’d be busy playing Christmas music at church or with other ensembles. My dad was always in different singing groups, too. The holiday season was very busy for them, and probably wore them out, thanks to their businesses (dad’s picture framing and art selling business complimented mom’s). I would like to enjoy Christmas more, but for many years ,it was a source of angst for a lot of different reasons. But I do like the music and the lights… and this year, I will miss the markets very much.
Well… I may not catch the Christmas spirit this year, either… unless you count the spirits in Harris Gin. But at least the lights are pretty to look at, and we have Noyzi to help us celebrate. Noyzi was more upset about the unfamiliar boxes in the living than the trees. Go figure that dog!
Arran met a couple of dogs who appeared to be truffle hunters. The market actually had a small booth dedicated to truffles and they had pictures of the dogs they use to find them. I don’t get the appeal of truffles at all. I wish I did, since people who love them make them sound so good and worth the money. Unfortunately, most things fungal make me want to run away screaming.
Truffle dog!
Fresh oysters…
Sausage!
Sights and sounds of Beaune…
After we walked around, admiring the cheeses, homemade sausages, breads, and mulled wines, we noticed some stores were open, even though it was Sunday. Then, we ended up eating at what, according to Trip Advisor, might be one of Beaune’s worst restaurants. Fortunately, we had a good experience there. The weather wasn’t too bad, so we sat outside with Arran at La Concorde, which offers all meals at apparently most times.
This song was playing at the market. I first heard it on National Lampoon’s European Vacation circa 1985. 80s music was big last Sunday.
I was surprised to read the poor reviews of this restaurant. I had fish n’ chips and Bill had a burger with Epoisses cheese, and we shared a carafe of wine. The waiter was a bit slow to greet us, but he was charming and charmed by Arran. I think a lot of complaints seem to come from a three course deal they offer and confusion over the bill. We didn’t have a problem, although perhaps the prices were higher than they should have been. I was just glad Arran behaved and wasn’t freaking out about the other dog sitting at the table next to us. The French lady enjoying lunch, complete with escargots, was complaining about the bill.
Perusing La Concorde’s menu…
We found a wine…
And enjoyed a carafe.
It tasted of raspberries.
Pretty good fish n’chips with salad.
Bill’s burger with stinky French cheese.
It gets two stars on Trip Advisor, but I don’t think it’s so bad.
I even had chocolate mousse for dessert… Bill had rum and brioche.
Quite lovely! And the waiter brought Arran a cookie!
Wine…
everywhere…
in Beaune…
The front gate, which stays locked most of the time.
The front door to our gite.
One of many burgundies we’ve enjoyed…
At a stoplight, where no one punctured our tire.
Beaune gave us a parting rainbow.
Beaune is very cute, easy to walk, and has lots of food and retail shopping… and I think we’ll be back again, despite the asswipes at the rest stop who fucked up our tire. I noticed some wine stores I wanted to check out last week. Now that we are stranded, maybe we’ll drop in tomorrow… if they’re open this week, too.
Another discovery I made just now is that Aldi has partnered with Trader Joe’s, which I guess must be part of the Aldi group. We got cashews with the Trader Joe’s logo. If Trader Joe’s is in France, it would be worth it just to come back for that. I’m dying for some of their frozen “crack” n’ cheese, which is even better than mine is.
On Monday last week, we checked out of Beaune and made our way to Nimes… what this whole trip was about… to see my friend and “sista” Audra. But clearly, our adventures in Beaune are still going. More on that as the story evolves.
Bill and I were determined to get out of the house today, even though the skies were cloudy. It was a bit warmer today than it was yesterday and we wanted to pick up a few Christmas gifts and get some lunch in town. After a quick walk around the market and the weekly farmer’s market, we stopped by Ristorante Comeback, an Italian place on Wiesbaden’s “restaurant row”. Having tried La Cantinetta, the Italian place next door, we were eager to try a new place.
Ristorante Comeback was pretty busy, and it was warm enough that some people sat outside. We decided to sit inside, although it was pretty crowded in there. The waiter offered us English menus after hearing us speaking our native tongues, but we told him we could manage with the German menus. After five years, we can do that much, right? Here are a few photos from lunch. We both had special pasta dishes that were heavy on foam.
Bill reads the menu…
But I knew right away I wanted the house made triangoli filled with duck and orange and served with quince and roasted almonds.
Bill had triangoli with deer, cranberry, and roasted chestnuts.
I was surprised to find Tabasco there.
A shot of the busy front.
The waiter spoke English well and took good care of us. We rewarded him with a generous tip, for which he offered sincere thanks. I’d go back to Comeback Ristorante, although on a busy day, I think I’d rather sit outside. It was pretty chummy in the dining room. Our bill came to 55 euros and consisted of the pasta dishes, a bottle of San Pellegrino, and two glasses each of red wine. They also brought out hot, homemade bread, which was very nice.
After lunch, we did our shopping, enjoying the festive sights and sounds of Wiesbaden during the holidays. I think I prefer the market up here to the one down in Stuttgart, which was always very crowded and zoo-like. Here are some photos from our visit. We got some gifts for friends, but I saw quite a few things I wanted for myself. We may have to go back next week with more euros.
This booth was a little scary. They had flashing lights that might induce a seizure.
Food and drinks abound…
I liked the schoolbus motif, but I also liked the dog’s Harley Davidson sweater.
The market looked good…
Mistletoe!
Bill says the markets are one of his favorite things about Europe.
Since we ran out of Peet’s Coffee, Bill ducked in here…
And got us some Ethiopian beans. We’ll see how they are.
After lunch, we stopped in this tiny store with liqueurs and other delights.
The proprietor was from Spain and Portugal and was very friendly and charming. We’ll be back.
They had rides.
And so many nice gifts!
I was tempted.
They even had delights from the Black Forest.
And ice skating…
Ice shuffleboard?
A view from the top of the Parkhaus…
We were forced to park there because Wiesbaden was busy today!
I’m not usually all that keen on Christmas markets because they’re so crowded and people don’t watch where they’re going. I like Wiesbaden’s market, though, because there’s a big space for it and the crowds aren’t so obnoxious. It’s also very festive and people are upbeat. There were quite a few buskers out, too, including one band that appeared to be of Middle Eastern descent. They played “Feliz Navidad” (which Germans seem to love for some reason) and a not quite accurate version of “Jingle Bells”. But what can we say? I don’t think it’s their holiday. I give them mad props for effort and being entertaining. I hope they brought in some euros!
At last, it was Friday… the last day of my husband’s big Polish business trip. It promised to be a weird day, since our flight didn’t leave until 7:00pm and check out at the Sofitel was at noon. Fortunately, the staff at the Sofitel granted Bill’s request for a late checkout, so we had use of the room until 3:00pm, even though the hotel was booked. As it turned out, I didn’t need the room beyond noon. The weather was nice, so I decided to walk around the main square and check out the Christmas market, which opened that day. I dropped off a bag with the hotel staff and set out on my last Polish adventure.
First, I was going to have lunch. Originally, I thought I’d go back to the Doctors’ Bar, but for some reason, they appeared to be closed on Friday. Maybe they had a special event, since it looked like it was open, but the door was locked. So then I decided to find another place, which took some time, since I couldn’t decide what I wanted. I hate eating in restaurants alone, because I feel awkward. Eventually, I ended up at a place called Steak ‘N Roll, which appeared to be a steak joint loosely modeled after the Hard Rock Cafe.
There wasn’t any rock star memorabilia on the walls or gimmicky cocktails on the menu, but they were playing rock music on the sound system as they showed unrelated muted rock videos on the monitor. The music and videos were reminiscent of Hard Rock Cafe… and, in fact, I think the music was my favorite part about the experience, which ended up being kind of disappointing.
A tall young man invited me to sit down and handed me a menu in English. I asked him for a large draft beer. He said all they had was dark beer, which was fine with me. He went to get the beer and set it down, then asked if I was ready to order food. I wasn’t, because I was having trouble deciding what I wanted. I kind of didn’t want another burger, but it was either that, a Reuben sandwich, or a steak. They had other stuff on the menu that didn’t really appeal… salads, soups, fish bowls, and such.
I wasn’t sure I wanted a steak for lunch, and didn’t know if I had enough cash, although they do accept credit cards. I don’t really care for Reubens because of the sauerkraut, which I knew would result in a very windy flight. I just wanted a sandwich, and nothing jumped out at me as especially appealing. I asked the guy for another minute or two, which seemed to put him off a bit, even though there was only one other party in the dining room.
After a couple of minutes, the waiter came back and asked for my order. I decided to have the Classic BBQ burger, which consisted of a patty with cucumbers, lettuce, tomatoes, onions, BBQ sauce, and mustard seed mayonnaise. This is not really the way I like my burgers, but the only other regular burger choice was the Alamo Burger, which came with mustard seed & mayonnaise sauce, nachos, cheddar, bacon, tomato salsa, jalapeno, and lettuce. That sounded like a recipe for indigestion. Or I could have had a vegan burger, which came with goat cheese, lavender mustard, rucola, beetroot, and nuts… and that didn’t appeal to me, either. Side note: wouldn’t goat cheese render that burger non vegan?
Once I ordered, the waiter came back with a basket of grilled bread and a side of truffle spread. I’m sure a lot of people love the truffle spread and, in fact, Bill probably would have eaten all of it if he’d been with me. Unfortunately, I have a demonic hatred/phobia of mushrooms and truffles. Just having that spread near me was giving me the willies. I don’t enjoy the aroma of truffles, either, so I left the spread untouched and pushed it far away from me. I know a lot of people think this is crazy. Believe me, my life would have been so much easier if I didn’t hate fungus so much.
Finally, the burger arrived, along with a side of steak fries, which looked really good. However, just like the burger I’d had earlier in the week, the sandwich was too big to bite into. I had to cut it, which made a bit of a mess. Also, they had really slathered on a ton of the mustard seed mayonnaise, so much so that it was dripping copiously from the side in big glops. I don’t know what the deal is with mayo in parts of Europe, but I’ve found that people over here seem to love it and really load their burgers up with it.
The view from my table.
Grilled bread and truffle spread.
Looks better than it tasted. I should have gotten a picture of all the mayo.
Outside…
I didn’t think the burger was as good as the one I’d had at Doctors’ Bar. The patty didn’t taste very fresh and had been molded, rather than hand shaped. The steak fries looked appealing, but had kind of a weird aftertaste, like maybe the were fried in old oil or something. As I was finishing up, the waiter asked me if I wanted dessert. They had a three items that looked appealing, but I decided I’d rather have another beer. By that point, they also had a lager, which the waiter offered. I told him I wanted another dark beer. I got up to go to the bathroom and when I came back, I found that he’d left me a small beer, even though I’d said I wanted another one and meant I’d wanted one just like the one I was drinking.
So I decided to just finish up and get out of there. I asked for the check, which the guy brought to me. The total was 61 zloty, so I put down a 100 zloty bill and asked him to bring me 30 zloty back. Instead, he brought back the whole amount and said, rather curtly, “Here’s the rest of it.” I kind of sighed and gave the guy a ten zloty note and went on my way. He did kind of smile at that. It occurred to me that he probably didn’t want the coins… who knows? The experience left me in kind of a bad mood, though. I wished I had just eaten shashlik at the stand in the Christmas market that was set up just outside. I probably would have had a better experience.
After I ate, I had a couple of hours to kill. I walked around the main square and took pictures of the Christmas market stalls I’d watched workers constructing all week. I’m glad I got to see them open before we left, although I didn’t end up buying anything. There was nothing there that I couldn’t live without and/or couldn’t buy in Germany. Still, the Christmas markets are kind of cool, and it was interesting to see one in Poland. Here are some photos.
That stall gave me the creeps all week.
Cheese!
This is blurry… one lady seemed determined to get the perfect selfie.
There was just one ride.
Bread!
Parking is a little better now than it was in 2008.
Should have had shashlik for lunch!
I went back to the hotel a little bit before three and parked myself in the lobby to wait for Bill and his co-worker, who would be sharing a taxi ride to the airport. They got to the hotel at just after 3:00, and we started our journey back to Germany. Our cab driver turned out to be an older Polish guy who spoke broken English and wanted to bond over rock music.
We got in the car and he proceeded to speak to the men and ignore me. Actually, if I had been in a slightly less irritated mood, I probably would have enjoyed talking to him. He told us about how he’d grown up in Poland during the communist era and went to university when Americans weren’t friends. He studied German, because although English was available, learning it wasn’t all that encouraged. What a difference a few decades make. We ran into so many English speakers in Poland. I was shocked by the difference between 2008 and 2019.
Sitting in traffic…. I couldn’t help but notice the dog watching us creep by.
I don’t think political correctness has hit Poland yet…
Anyway, the guy kept listing all of his favorite English speaking rock bands… Rush (which he noted is Canadian), Metallica, Journey, and curiously, he even mentioned Blondie, but he wasn’t sure if Debbie Harry was American. He had no way of knowing that I was probably the biggest music buff in his taxi. Bill asked me about Ms. Harry’s citizenship, and I confirmed that she’s from the United States. The taxi creeped along, because Wroclaw has terrible traffic during rush hour and the roads are in the process of being expanded into two lanes. My mood was still slightly sour, mainly because I felt like a third wheel sitting there while Bill and his buddy chatted up the taxi driver.
We finally got to the super nice airport in Wroclaw, and this time, I did not get bumped from business class. I was allowed to use the lounge, but ended up hanging out with Bill and his co-worker at a restaurant. The co-worker turned out to be interesting to talk to, since he’s from Georgia and has a strong accent, but is quite liberal. We were lamenting that Trump is our president, and he told me about his plans to buy homes in different European countries and just rotate from house to house every ninety days. He’s already bought a house in Italy and is looking to buy ones in Germany and England. I’m not sure how well his plan will work, nor do I think it’s very practical, but I can understand the attraction of simply hanging out in Europe for awhile. I’m inclined to do that myself.
Our flight was okay. I was seated in 1A, which was not any more comfortable than any other seat on the small airplane, but had an empty seat next to it. I also got food, which on Lufthansa is at least somewhat edible. Actually, it wasn’t bad at all. We had some kind of guacamole like salad, hummus, panna cotta, chocolates, bread, and red wine. One thing I didn’t like about my seat, though, was that it was right next to the lavatory. At one point, a woman got up to use the toilet and neglected to close the door after herself when she was finished. I happened to be eating when this occurred, so I had a nice view of the toilet while I was chowing down on hummus.
But there was also a very kind flight attendant on board who was very solicitous to me. When I mentioned her to Bill, he knew which one I was talking about, because he’d also noticed how good she was. I’m always heartened when I run into flight attendants who are genuinely pleasant and seem concerned about giving good service as well as maintaining safety. I wish I could have seen her nametag. She’s one for whom I would send compliments to Lufthansa– a true credit to her profession.
We were quick to retrieve our luggage and on our way home before too long. Bill was smart enough to park in “business parking”, which is well worth the expense, and actually comes out cheaper than regular parking, anyway. On Saturday, Arran came back home and was delighted to be with his people again.
I wish we could have done more while we were in Wroclaw. It’s a great city, and I didn’t get to see enough of it. However, I think there could be a chance we’ll come back on our own terms, bringing our own vehicle with us so we can get out and about and try some of the city’s tourist attractions. I particularly would have loved to have sees Hydropolis, which is a museum about water near Wroclaw. And, of course, there are still some places in the area around Wroclaw that I’d like to visit, but with Bill in tow. It’s just a lot more fun to visit these places with someone else.
We landed in Wroclaw a little bit late on Sunday afternoon. Our flight was delayed by about a half hour. I was feeling grouchy because, once again, we didn’t eat before we traveled and I wasn’t wanting the cheese sandwich being passed out on the plane. Fortunately, getting out of the local airport was a breeze. Wroclaw has a small but very modern airport, and it was super quick getting out of there. The cab driver spoke English and whisked us to the Sofitel Wroclaw, which was one of the hotels authorized for this trip.
As we drove into town, Bill and I marveled at how much more upscale things are looking in Poland. We knew they were coming up in the world during our last visit in 2008, but we were especially impressed by how clean and modern things are looking in 2019. It’s hard to believe that when I was a Peace Corps Volunteer from 1995-97, Poland was a Peace Corps country. I could have easily spent two years in Poland teaching English which, by the way, just about everyone seems to speak almost fluently! We did not have that experience in Poland even in Wroclaw back in 2008. In fact, Bill and I still laugh about how, while visiting Jelena Gora in 2008, we stopped at a McDonald’s and no one there spoke any English. We had to use a picture menu to get what we wanted. This time, I have yet to encounter anyone in this town who doesn’t speak English as well as I do. Here’s a link to a story by an older Peace Corps Volunteer who served as an English teacher at the end of the Peace Corps’ time in Poland. I must admit, I could relate to his experiences, even though I was in Armenia and quite a bit younger.
Another thing I noticed, besides the excellent English skills, is that this town is full of Americans. I’m not sure if all of them are here at the same conference Bill is, but I have heard plenty of folks speaking English with an American accent. In fact, a lot of them were on the same flight we were on Sunday afternoon.
A Polish soldier was sitting at a table checking people in to the conference, so Bill approached her after he checked us into the hotel. Our room this week isn’t nearly as luxurious as the Jumeirah Hotel was, but it’s also not nearly as expensive.
After we dropped off our bags, we headed across the street for food. Wroclaw has several Georgian restaurants, including one called U Gruzina, which is supposedly fast food. I adore Georgian food, so Bill and I went in there for some substantial eats. The place was packed, so we sat at a low level table in the corner, ordered a bottle of Saperavi, and some Georgian specialties. I had Chinkali, which are basically sack shaped dumplings filled with spiced meat or cheese. They’re also very popular in Armenia, as is Khatchapouri, which is what Bill had. They had several varieties at U Gruzina. He chose one stuffed with cheese, potatoes, and bacon. I am a little shy when it comes to cheeses from Transcaucasia, since a lot of them are strong. The cheese at U Gruzina was mild… almost a bit like mozzarella.
They had the usual stuff, minus my favorite Shashlik… (BBQ)
Chinkali. This is a normal sized portion, but you can order more at four zloty a piece. A zloty is about 26 cents US.
Georgian wine is fantastic! Even if it does come from the Wine Man.
Bill’s Khatchapouri. It was very good, and quite filling.
I should stock up on this… once I find a local supplier.
So far, this is the one place I’ve visited twice.
Dinner was surprisingly economical I think we spent 125 Zloty before the tip, which is about $32. Tips are appreciated here. Most folks give at least ten percent for good service.
We walked around the big square after dinner, where preparations for the Christmas markets have been going on all week. They’re just about finished setting up as of today. Too bad we’re going to miss it. I did get some pictures on Sunday night, as well as a street performer who was eating and breathing fire most impressively. When I am back at my big computer at home, I’ll make a video and share part of his performance here.
The museum in the distance is a very striking sight here. Unfortunately, it’s been closed all week.
St. Elizabeth’s Catholic Church.
I have a photo from 2008 of this same clock.
The Georgian consulate
After we walked around a bit, we stopped by a bar called Literatka. They seem to specialize in coffee, cocktails, and vaping. Fortunately, the vaping and smoking went on behind a glass wall. We had a few cocktails and listened to 80s era music. For some reason, they seemed to enjoy using passion fruit in their drinks. They were okay, but I was more impressed by the heavily pierced and tatted out waitresses, as well as the rather disappointing toilet. Ah well, it was a nice welcome to Wroclaw. The bartender spoke English and was very cute and elfin looking. She probably makes good tips.
We went back to Hainerberg on Sunday to pick up a few American items at the commissary. Before we went to the commissary, we decided to have lunch in downtown Wiesbaden. The Christmas market was in full swing and we walked through it on our way to the Ratskeller, which is a German restaurant underneath the Rathaus in Wiesbaden. Below are a few pictures of Wiesbaden’s market, followed by my thoughts on Ratskeller.
The Christmas market in Wiesbaden has a different vibe…
I heard a lovely choir singing carols as I took this picture.
As we were leaving the area later, there was a children’s choir singing “Let It Snow”. We got rain instead.
They had a puppet theater set up.
And a ferris wheel! I kind of wish Bill and I had gotten on this, but Bill isn’t a fan of heights or rides.
They had names of all the local areas, like Mainz.
And Winter BBQ… which appeared to be burgers and hot dogs.
Ratskeller enjoys a very advantageous location in Wiesbaden’s Rathaus. I was surprised by how large the restaurant is. It’s heavy on beer and heavy German style food. Oddly enough, that was exactly what Bill and I were in the mood for on Sunday. Sometimes, we are uncannily in sync with our thoughts and desires.
Bill peruses the choices. They had a number of Bavarian specialties.
The inside of the restaurant reminded me a little of the Hofbrauhaus in Munich. There was no band, though.
I had a Doppelbock and Bill had a Dunkelweizen. I really enjoyed the Doppelbock, which was flavorful, but not too cloying. It clocked in at 7% ABV, while Bill’s dunkel was a bit lighter and less alcoholic.
I had a small portion of duck. This was one quarter of the bird. I could have had half a duck, but I wasn’t hungry enough for that. I didn’t finish this, although I did enjoy the Rotkohl– red cabbage with apple. It went very well with the duck and the potato dumplings. I can never eat more than one dumpling, which may surprise those who get a load of my dumpy backside.
Bill had a pork Schnitzel breaded with pretzel and served with brown gravy. It came with really good steak fries. Seriously, those potatoes were excellent. They had a fabulous flavor. A lot of fries are kind of tasteless and filling, but these had a great rustic character to them. The Schnitzel was also well prepared and just the right size.
Our waiter spoke perfect English and was reasonably friendly. I liked the atmosphere in the Ratskeller, although I imagine it probably gets busy and noisy in there. It’s not often I want German food, but this was just what we were in the mood for on Sunday. I had a dark wheat beer for dessert, while Bill had coffee.
Dessert prompted us to need the bathroom…
If you aren’t a guest and you need to pee, you’re supposed to pay one euro. No Nette Toilette here!
A couple more shots of what appears to be a rather historic building.
Wiesbaden is sure pretty…
On the way back home, we stopped by the commissary and picked up some American items. I didn’t take the time to really explore the commissary, but it did appear to be somewhat nicer than the one at Patch Barracks. Of course, Stuttgart is supposed to be getting a brand new commissary soon. I don’t know that we’ll visit the one in Wiesbaden more than once or twice a month, now that we’ve become so accustomed to German stores. However, I did notice there’s a nice view from the commissary…
My camera didn’t really do this justice… there were sunbeams coming out of the clouds as if they were sent straight from Heaven.
The first time we visited Wiesbaden, back in October of this year, we stayed at the Town Hotel Wiesbaden, which is located in the heart of the city. Â While we were there, I noticed an Italian chain restaurant called Vapiano. Â Last time I visited Stuttgart, I noticed that Stuttgart has a Vapiano outlet, too.
I was weirdly attracted to the Wiesbaden Vapiano when we were downtown for our first visit. Â I’m not sure why. Â I usually prefer individual restaurants to chains. Â Saturday afternoon, we were hungry and not wanting to search for a particularly special place. Â We stopped by Vapiano in Wiesbaden and had a rather different restaurant experience.
The view from the parking garage at the theater in Wiesbaden… Â They had the ice skating rink set up for the Christmas market…
The first thing that happened when we walked through the door is that a smiling woman behind a desk– the cashier– handed us each a plastic card. Â Having never been to Vapiano before, I didn’t know what the hell was going on. Â Then I saw that people were ordering at a counter. Â You get into the line that corresponds with what you’re eating. Â If you want pizza or lasagna, you get in one line. Â If you want pasta, you get into a different line. Â Salads are in still another line.
Bill decided he wanted pasta with spicy tomato sauce. Â I wanted lasagna. Â Since we didn’t know how things worked, I stood next to him while a line cook prepared his dish for him. Â You can actually watch the guys boil the pasta and put sauce on it for you. Â They scan your item on the plastic card. Â If you want a soft drink, they’ll get that for you, too.
Bill an I wanted wine, so after we ordered my lasagna in a different line, he went to the bar and got us a couple of glasses of Montepulciano. Â This is also where you get your desserts.
Bill’s pasta was ready before my lasagna was, so he was about halfway through his lunch when the beeper went off for my lasagna. Â In retrospect, we should have ordered the lasagna first… not that I think we’ll be regulars at Vapiano. Â It was a little too busy and noisy for my liking, although I noticed the workers were good about picking up plates and keeping things reasonably clean. Â If I were about twenty-five years younger, I probably would have liked it a lot more. Â The food was good and reasonably priced, but I’d rather eat at a place where there’s table service and less noise. Â Vapiano is very kid friendly, so it has that going for it.
As we were leaving, we stopped by the cashier, handed her our cards, and paid. Â This is also where you can leave a tip, if you like. Â I’m pretty sure Bill paid with a credit card and I did notice they were equipped for that.
Below are some photos…
Vapiano has outlets all over the world, including in the United States. Â This was our first visit.
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Go up to the counter with the plastic card they give you. Â Get in the appropriate line. Â Order what you want and have the cook scan it. Â They’ll cook your food and you’ll take it to your table. Â You pay at the cashier as you leave.
Go to the bar for your adult beverages and desserts.
Bill’s ravioli with meat sauce. Â It wasn’t bad, though it was done a lot sooner than my lasagna was. Â Bill liked that the portion size wasn’t huge and the sauce was spicy.
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My lasagna. Â This was very cheesy and it took some time to actually get to the pasta. Â My first few bites were all melted cheese, not that I minded. Â It wasn’t a huge serving, which was a good thing. Â I have had better lasagna, but this wasn’t too bad. Â I just felt sorry for whomever has to wash the lasagna dishes. Â A lot of the cheese was stuck to the pan.
Bill had cheesecake for dessert. Â It wasn’t very sweet or creamy, but it kind of hit the spot after the pasta.
I went with their version of “Death by Chocolate”. Â I used to work at a restaurant in Williamsburg, Virginia had a far different and vastly superior “Death by Chocolate”. Â Vapiano’s version is basically a rather dry, plain, chocolate cake. Â I wouldn’t get it again.
On the way back to the car, I took some pictures of Wiesbaden’s holiday finery…
I am kind of tempted to ice skate, but it’s been about 40 years since my last trip around the rink. Â I’m not sure why I never noticed the ice rinks in prior years.
We stopped by our local Rewe for provisions. Â I was surprised to see a whole lot of condoms on sale… Â As a former public health worker, I’m glad to see them selling condoms. Â I just think it’s funny that they do it so openly. Â I don’t remember seeing a display like this at an American grocery store. Â Not that I mind, of course…
Yesterday was our last day in Berlin. Our flight did not leave until 5:55pm, so we had all day to spend in the city. The Adina Apartment Hotel Berlin Mitte is very accommodating. We were able to leave our bags at the hotel while we visited Berlin’s TV Tower. I have visited Stuttgart’s TV Tower twice so far. I expected that Berlin’s tower would be similar. Actually, it was a bit different in that the whole thing is enclosed indoors, whereas Stuttgart’s tower allows visitors to go outside.
Berlin’s TV Tower has a restaurant and a bar and, if you pay extra, you can reserve a table in the Sphere restaurant. Naturally, it costs more to sit on the outside ring, next to a window. We were going to do that, but the first available reservation was at 4:15pm and that was too late for us.
We took the tram to the tower, which allowed us to see more of Berlin’s inner city. As we were passing the neighborhoods, it occurred to me how much we were going to miss on this trip. Bill and I will have to try to go back and see more sometime, if we stay in Germany. Berlin is a very impressive city.
A bike messenger stopped near us while we were waiting for the tram. I liked his vehicle.
The tower was somewhat crowded when we got there, although it’s possible to skip the lines and book tickets online or purchase them from vending machines. We walked around the sphere, looking at the very spectacular views of Berlin that would have been even nicer had the sun been shining. After a few looks at the city, Bill, Parker and I stopped by the bar and had a drink.
The many scenes of Berlin.
Part of the bar area.
The whole inside of the tower is like this. You can’t venture outside. But the weather was crappy anyway, so it was no big deal.
Time for a beer break. They had local craft beers available, which made Bill happy.
After our pit stop at the bar, Parker and I went to the ladies room. I was not surprised to find a line, as there had been a line when we first arrived. This time, it was two women, one of whom was pregnant. As we were waiting, I happened to notice that the first three of the five stalls were open. I could tell by the white display on the lock. If the door had been locked, it would have been red.
Just at the time I was about to point out the availability of the stalls to the chattering women, they noticed the first open stall. They went to the first one, which had a changing table in it that apparently made it unavailable for normal use. I went to the one next to it, but just as I was about to enter the stall, one of the women said, “Sorry!” and quickly jumped back in front of me, thwarting my attempt to pee.
I swear, I must be turning German, because my reaction was decidedly pissy… it was the kind of response I’ve gotten myself from Germans. I then pointed out the other normal stall, which the other woman quickly took.
Parker said, “Aggressive!”
My response was, “No, it’s stupid! Pay attention and fucking go! Luckily, I don’t have to pee that badly.”
Even I was surprised by the sharp tone of my response, although I think those two women both kind of deserved it. Both of them lit out of there pretty quickly. I don’t even think they washed their hands. Normally, I try not to be bitchy in these situations, but I was feeling exasperated and spoke too soon. We left the tower and decided to have lunch across the street at the Block House, which is a chain steakhouse. We’ve eaten there in Stuttgart and knew the food to be decent.
I had a cheeseburger. This was ground beef sitting on a piece of baguette with some kind of tomato relish and covered with Edam cheese. It was pretty good, although I really wanted a proper burger. I was surprised by how much I enjoyed the stretchy cheese, though.
Bill’s mom had a small steak with a baked potato and bread.
And this was Bill’s lunch.
Block House has a lot of American appeal. It reminds me of American chain steakhouses.
A few more shots near the TV tower… and another Christmas market.
By the time we were finished with lunch, it was mid afternoon. We took the tram back to the hotel, picked up our bags, and headed for the airport. Our cab driver was very helpful and knew exactly where we should be when we told him we were flying Eurowings (which was Air Berlin last night). We checked into the remarkably primitive looking terminal, breezed through security and hung out until it was time to fly out of Berlin. While we were waiting, I took notice of the very sexy voice coming from the woman doing the announcements. Apparently, I am not the only one who’s noticed that.
Seriously… she’s quite the sexpot. Reminds me of Princess Aura in Flash Gordon.
No!
We enjoyed another uneventful flight back to Stuttgart and arrived home at about 8:00pm. While we were gone, Bill’s custom made kilt finally arrived from Scotland. Tonight, he will model it for us and I will take pictures. Stay tuned for that!
As for Berlin, I will declare it a successful trip, despite the weather. The blind booking flights worked out really well and we were very happy with our accommodations. There’s a lot to see and do there and, when the weather isn’t horrible, you might just find some good food and shopping. I think I liked Hamburg better because it’s prettier to me, but there’s no denying that Berlin has a fascinating history. I feel like reading more about it now that I’ve seen it in person.
By the time we got back to the hotel, the weather was getting pretty crappy again. We had a pretty disagreeable mixture of rain and snow that made venturing out for food unappealing. We decided to go back to Alto, the restaurant’s bar. Awsam, the bartender, greeted us warmly. Again, I wrote a lot about Saturday at the bar in my main blog. That piece is a bit political, though, so for those who would rather skip my rantings, I’ll just say that we enjoyed some wine, some bad pop music, and watched videos from the early 80s.
We also tried kumquats for the first time. I must admit, although I had heard of kumquats, I’d never actually tried them. They’re basically tiny oranges. You’re supposed to eat the rind, which none of us did. I wasn’t aware of this, but apparently kumquats are pretty popular in Germany. My friend Susanne says she likes to eat them when she’s feeling sick. They’re supposedly pretty healthy.
Lemons, limes, and kumquats!
After a couple of hours in the bar, we went back to our room. It was so yucky outside that I decided I just wanted a pizza from the Domino’s we passed on our first night in Berlin. Yes, I know it’s ridiculous to seek out Domino’s Pizza in an international city, but it had been years since I last had one and I was craving comfort food. Parker was game, although Bill rolled his eyes at us. So he went to the nearby Domino’s in the shitty weather and picked up a pizza for us.
Domino’s Pizza in Berlin.
It’s been awhile since my last Domino’s pizza and even that was in France (of all places). We were pretty shocked by how small a “large” pizza was from the German Domino’s. It was about the size of a small in the United States. Bill ordered us a Hawaiian style pizza with ham and pineapple, although I really just wanted a pepperoni pizza. Pepperoni, as we know, is not the same in Germany as it is in America. Here, pepperoni refers to peppers, not sausage.
After a good night’s sleep, we rose to sunshine on Sunday. Bill, Parker, and I had a special errand to run for some Americans in Stuttgart who were hoping for souvenirs from the Hard Rock Cafe in Berlin. We also wanted to see Checkpoint Charlie. We headed for Checkpoint Charlie first, hopping on the underground train just a couple of blocks from the hotel.
A couple of ads I spotted on the way to the subway. They drive home how important it is to keep safety on the brain while driving. Slow down and don’t use your phone.
On the way to Checkpoint Charlie, I was intrigued by an ad on the train. They’re looking for healthy balding men to take part in research.
Below are some pictures from Checkpoint Charlie. We stopped by the very extensive museum there, which was well worth the time. I don’t usually get that excited about museums, but this one is well worth a visit, even though it can get rather crowded and there’s a lot to read. Headsets are available.
A piece of the famous Berlin Wall.
A very famous sign.
Actors portray guards in front of the replica of Checkpoint Charlie. For a fee, you can have your picture taken with them and get your passport stamped. We didn’t bother with that.
The one picture I took inside of the huge museum. Seriously… if you visit Berlin, I highly recommend visiting the museum by Checkpoint Charlie. It’s fascinating and extensive. I learned a whole lot about the former German Democratic Republic and the people who risked their lives to leave it.
After we visited the museum, we got back on the underground train and headed for Charlottenburg, the area of Berlin where the Hard Rock Cafe is. I didn’t have any particular desire to visit there, but I got requests from three people in Stuttgart who were hoping for shot glasses and such. Since I definitely don’t mind the occasional American food, we went there for lunch.
Bill smiles for the camera as we try to decide what to eat. I was tempted by the burgers, but I can get those in Stuttgart. Ditto on the ribs…
One thing I don’t necessarily like about the Hard Rock Cafe is that they have all of this memorabilia on the walls. I know that’s the draw, along with the music, but having that stuff on the walls creates a museum effect. We happened to be sitting near Janis Joplin and Keith Richards exhibits, so people would come stand by our table to check it out. It was a little annoying.
Bill had a pulled pork sandwich with some very tasty fries.
Parker had a cheeseburger sans bacon.
I went with combo fajitas, which arrived sizzling on peppers and onions and came served with pico de gallo, guacamole, and cheese. They weren’t the best fajitas I’ve ever had, but they were probably the best I’ve had in Germany. Unfortunately, that isn’t saying a whole lot.
For dessert, I had an Irish kiss, which was like hot chocolate with whiskey and tons of whipped cream. It was good and not too big, as I could see the other desserts were. I didn’t need it, but it hit the spot.
After we ate, we went to the gift shop and picked up the requested souvenirs. The lady who rang us up was Brazilian and said that a lot of Americans from Texas visit the Hard Rock Cafe in Berlin. Although Bill and I came to Germany this time from Texas, only he and his mother are from there. I am from Virginia.
Cool “bus” outside the restaurant.
And the facade. It had gotten cloudy while we were having lunch.
We decided to check out another Christmas market and this cool looking church, which we didn’t have time to explore.
We stopped for the obligatory Gluhwein…
Good to the last drop?
By the time we had walked through the Christmas market, it was getting dark and threatening to snow. We decided to take a cab back to the hotel. We considered staying in and ordering room service, but somehow I was cajoled back down to the Alto restaurant. Parker stayed in the room and watched TV.
Bill and I shared a nice gray burgundy. He had pumpkin soup because he was still full from lunch.
I had penne carbonara, which was covered in fresh basil and Parmesan cheese.
It snowed furiously while we were enjoying dinner. I was surprised to see how quickly the white stuff accumulated. By the morning, most of it had melted. I heard Stuttgart got hit with a lot of snow on Saturday and Sunday, but most of it was gone by the time we arrived home last night.
Yesterday, Bill and I decided to drive to Ludwigsburg to unload the many bottles we collected after finishing the beer we purchased on our last trip there. For those not in the know, Ludwigsburg has an awesome drink market called Heinrich’s Getranke Markt. This super sized drink market has beverages of all sorts, but really specializes in beer. If you’ve been reading my blogs, you know Bill and I are beer lovers.
Aside from drinks, Heinrich’s also has some basic grocery items. I didn’t buy any “Corny” bars, but I did manage to get some laundry soap and fabric softener.
We visited Heinrich’s and picked up some new suds. I was actually hoping to find some alcoholic ginger beer like I did last time. Heinrich’s has a pretty good international section. I only found one beer that sort of fit the bill– it has an essence of ginger. I saw another that was non-alcoholic, which would be okay I guess… but it wasn’t really what I wanted. But I did find some interesting brews from the Republic of Georgia and Estonia. We also managed to pick up a rack of Ettal double bock beer. The Ettal Monastery is in Bavaria, not far from Garmisch-Partenkirchen. I took a tour there a few years ago and became acquainted with the beers made by local monks.
A picture of the Ettal basilica. I took this last time we lived here when I took a tour of the Ettal Monastery through the Edelweiss Lodge. That was a surprisingly fun excursion!
I don’t have high hopes for the Georgian beers, since I lived in its southern neighbor, Armenia, and Armenia’s beers weren’t very good. I would have liked to have found some Georgian wines because wine is what both Georgia and Armenia do best… along with brandy. I think the Estonian beer will probably be good. I have had beer from Estonia before and liked it. I always enjoy visiting Heinrich’s, because you never know what they’ll have… especially in the international section. I was impressed by all the African and South American beers being offered, as well as a few from places like Lithuania, Finland, and even Hong Kong.
This might make a good gift for the beer lover in your life…
After we visited Heinrich’s, we went into town. Parking was a bit of a bear in Ludwigsburg because their Christmas market is still going on. Both Bill and I needed a WC, though, and we hadn’t been to any markets this season. I must say, Ludwigsburg’s Christmas market was very good. They had a carousel, lots of little stands with handmade gifts, and gluhwein aplenty! We were a bit hungry, so we stopped at a stand that was selling homemade soups. I had potato soup with wurst and Bill had the soup of the day, which was some kind of heavenly cheese concoction. We washed it down with three gluhweins. Bill had ordered two– a merlot based one and an apple one– but the lady must have misheard drei instead of zwei. So we each had an apple gluhwein and split the merlot one.
Germans love their Christmas markets!
Lots of kids were out shilling for euros, playing whatever instrument they are learning. One little girl was blowing a mean “Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer” on a recorder.
That soup was delicious! And it was cold and windy yesterday, so it was perfect for the occasion! They had several other soups as well.
Loading up on gluhwein!
The guy on the stage was doing a great job entertaining some kids… I wish I could have seen more, but I’m vertically challenged, especially in this country, where tall people abound!
On the way out of Ludwigsburg, we stopped in the mall for one last pit stop. The mall was packed with people and the restrooms were very busy. As I was standing in line, a young German lass said something to me. My brain froze, even though I’ve been trying to pick up some more German. I said very apologetically that I don’t speak German. She laughed and said in perfect English, “You are waiting?” It really puts us to shame that we Americans aren’t so proficient in languages. But then, in America, there’s less of a need… unless you count Spanish. I studied Spanish for years and understand it, but when I speak it, it comes out Eastern Armenian. Armenia is the only place I’ve lived where speaking the local language was essential.
Our next stop was Breuningerland in Sindelfingen. I dreaded going there because that place is a madhouse on Saturdays and especially the Saturday right before Christmas. But Bill wanted to rejoin ADAC, which is basically the auto club in Europe. Last time we were here, the membership paid for itself when we came back to our car after a week in Scandinavia to find it with a completely dead battery. An ADAC guy came out, diagnosed the problem, and replaced our battery on the spot. We opted for the ADACPlus whole Europe family plan, which I think was 109 euros for the year. Well worth it. We also stopped by WMF to pick up a new salt and pepper grinder since our salt grinder bit the dust last week.
Our landlady said Americans love Breuningerland, but from what I saw yesterday, that mall is equally loved by Germans and Turks. The parking lots were jam packed and we saw lots of creative parking done by desperate shoppers. I’m proud to report that we managed to get out of Sindelfingen unscathed. Today, we’ll probably end up doing what we usually do on Sundays… shopping on base and drinking beer at the Irish pub. But maybe we’ll go Greek today. Who knows?
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