Rathaus | The Traveling Overeducated Housewife

I mentioned in part one of this series that I had originally wanted to book us a few nights in Bamberg. Over the years we’ve been living in Germany this time, we’ve heard over and over again how great Bamberg is, and given that it used to have a US Army installation, a lot of military affiliated people know firsthand what a great town it is. I also knew about it because that’s where the famous Rauchbier (smoked beer) is made. I had tried that beer before our visit last Wednesday, but I was eager to try it on draft.

So, even though we had another cold, rainy, windy day greeting us, Bill, Parker, and I decided we’d take the train to Bamberg and see why everyone seems to love it. The train from Würzburg, which, incidentally, also used to have a US Army post, takes about an hour to reach Bamberg. We decided that was the best way to get to the city.

After breakfast, Bill drove us to the train station and managed to find a parking spot against all odds. He was very careful to buy an all day ticket (18 euros) for the lot, as the Würzburg train station is notorious for fining people who don’t pay– even if they’re only in the lot for a couple of minutes! He also bought us first class tickets for the train, which just meant we were at the front in a somewhat quieter area.

I can’t say the ride to Bamberg was especially exciting, as it was grey, dreary, and rainy. We managed to get a group of four seats and sat almost in silence the whole way. When we got to Bamberg, we walked to the center of town, where Bill had planned for us to have lunch at Schlenkerla, a historic restaurant that serves the beer and very hearty German food. I did notice that Bamberg is a very charming town. I especially enjoyed the enchanting Rathaus, which famously juts out over the middle of the Regnitz River. I didn’t get a chance to take a lot of spellbinding photos on Wednesday, due to the crappy weather. But, when we go back– and I’m sure we will– I will take more pictures.

Schlenkerla was pretty packed when we got there. I was surprised, given that it’s February, and the weather was not good. We ended up sitting at a Stammtisch, and I sat in the wrong spot. The waitress chastised me, which really annoyed me. I’m out of practice of being yelled at by Germans, having moved out of Swabia. Bill asked me if I wanted to just leave, but I sighed and said no, since we were already sitting down. I cheered up when she brought us a round of nice, fresh, Rauchbiers. I know they are an acquired taste for many, but I do like me some smokey beer.

As for food, we had more heavy German fare. Bill and his mom both got roast beef plates with vegetables and horseradish. I got a pork knuckle with sauerkraut and potato dumplings. I don’t usually get knuckles, because I can’t finish them. But the one I had on Wednesday was manageable. Bill and I also tried a Rauchweizen, which was like a wheat beer with smokey flavor. It was a bit lighter. I think Bill preferred it to the Rauchbier. By the time we finished lunch, the restaurant had emptied out.

*I liked what Bill and his mom had. It was a little less extreme, too.*

We walked around Bamberg to burn off some of our lunch. I can’t say it was a really enjoyable walk, thanks to the wind and rain, but at least it wasn’t super cold. I managed to visit a few more churches, too, and Parker bought some gifts for her co-workers in Texas. One other thing I want to mention is the very convenient public WC near the Rathaus. That was a lifesaver after lunch! St. Elisabeth’s Church had beautiful windows on display.

Our stay in Bamberg was brief, as the weather was getting worse as the afternoon wore on. But now that I have an idea of what the town looks like, I know I want to go back and explore it some more. The train ride back was a bit more crowded, as it was quitting time. Our guide at the wine tasting mentioned that he lived in Bamberg, which probably meant he got on a train going the other direction just as we were leaving. Bamberg is definitely enchanting. Bill and I will have to go back and enjoy it when the sun is shining and Biergartens are open!

Here are a few more artsy photos of Bamberg… It really is a handsome town, even when the weather sucks.

Although there were heavy clouds in the sky last night, and the air was decidedly muggy, Bill and I decided to attend last night’s wine stand in Breckenheim. It was the first one we’d been to in awhile, since the last one was scheduled due to dangerous weather, and the time before that, I didn’t feel like getting dressed. But we usually do like to attend the wine stands, because they are held for good causes– fundraisers for various local clubs, who host them. Also, it’s often a fun chance to meet new people who live in our little suburban burg.

Our local town square (the Dorfplatz) is usually where the wine stands are held. However, the stand was held at the town hall, because the square is currently undergoing renovation. They’re putting in a public toilet. I understand the toilet idea isn’t particularly popular, especially since the Dorfplatz has only existed for a short while– by German standards, anyway– and there’s a fountain that was only put in about ten years ago that might need to be removed. Prior to its becoming a Dorfplatz, the area was a parking lot.

I guess the toilet will be a good thing, though, since it will allow people at the wine stands to stay longer, rather than either going home, or using the toilets at the Rathaus. Also, there’s been talk about starting a weekly farmer’s market, which I’m pretty psyched about. I hope that happens before we have to move again.

Anyway, because a large portion of the square has been cordoned off for the construction of the toilets, the wine stand has been moved, and that’s a good thing for us, because we live even closer to the town hall than we do the Dorfplatz. So, even though Noyzi and Arran protested loudly, Bill and I walked down the street to have a couple of glasses of wine. It started to sprinkle, but we decided to let the locals have the tables under the shelter.

After about ten or fifteen minutes of sipping Riesling and telling jokes, we met two Americans who live very close to us… Actually, they live even closer to the town hall than we do, since their house is just behind the parsonage for the church. They heard our American accents and came over to introduce themselves. It turns out that the two women have two kids, and they’re living here as ordinary residents. I was really fascinated, as one did have ties to the military, but is in the Reserves and drills back in the States. The other is a lawyer and a pastor! She told us the combination isn’t as unusual as one might think! Right now, she works as a pastor, but will soon start a new job as an American lawyer for a bank. I’m assuming it’s an American bank with a branch nearby, but I didn’t ask about the details.

They told us about the process of getting new German driver’s licenses, and what is required for that. Unfortunately, they didn’t come from a state where they could simply exchange licenses. Some US states do have a reciprocity agreement with Germany. Texas is one of those states. And their kids go to the local schools, one of which is within sight of our house. Both speak German, too, even to their kids.

We really enjoyed talking to them… I do hope I didn’t come off as too forward, though. Not everyone knows what to make of me, especially when I’ve been socially distanced for two years. But I thought they were a nice couple, and I’m sure we’ll see them around.

We won’t be at the next wine stand, which will also be held at the Rathaus, because it will take place just before my 50th birthday. Bill has plans to whisk me off to Antwerp, Belgium for the weekend. I look forward to it, since I love Belgium. There’s great beer, delicious frites, exquisite chocolates, and dirty humor… Any place where one of the country’s symbols is a little boy peeing is alright with me. 😉

Here are a few random photos from last night’s activities!