Bavaria, churches

Bamberg Bier or bust… part three

I mentioned in part one of this series that I had originally wanted to book us a few nights in Bamberg. Over the years we’ve been living in Germany this time, we’ve heard over and over again how great Bamberg is, and given that it used to have a US Army installation, a lot of military affiliated people know firsthand what a great town it is. I also knew about it because that’s where the famous Rauchbier (smoked beer) is made. I had tried that beer before our visit last Wednesday, but I was eager to try it on draft.

So, even though we had another cold, rainy, windy day greeting us, Bill, Parker, and I decided we’d take the train to Bamberg and see why everyone seems to love it. The train from Würzburg, which, incidentally, also used to have a US Army post, takes about an hour to reach Bamberg. We decided that was the best way to get to the city.

After breakfast, Bill drove us to the train station and managed to find a parking spot against all odds. He was very careful to buy an all day ticket (18 euros) for the lot, as the Würzburg train station is notorious for fining people who don’t pay– even if they’re only in the lot for a couple of minutes! He also bought us first class tickets for the train, which just meant we were at the front in a somewhat quieter area. 

I can’t say the ride to Bamberg was especially exciting, as it was grey, dreary, and rainy. We managed to get a group of four seats and sat almost in silence the whole way. When we got to Bamberg, we walked to the center of town, where Bill had planned for us to have lunch at Schlenkerla, a historic restaurant that serves the beer and very hearty German food. I did notice that Bamberg is a very charming town. I especially enjoyed the enchanting Rathaus, which famously juts out over the middle of the Regnitz River. I didn’t get a chance to take a lot of spellbinding photos on Wednesday, due to the crappy weather. But, when we go back– and I’m sure we will– I will take more pictures.

Schlenkerla was pretty packed when we got there. I was surprised, given that it’s February, and the weather was not good. We ended up sitting at a Stammtisch, and I sat in the wrong spot. The waitress chastised me, which really annoyed me. I’m out of practice of being yelled at by Germans, having moved out of Swabia. Bill asked me if I wanted to just leave, but I sighed and said no, since we were already sitting down. I cheered up when she brought us a round of nice, fresh, Rauchbiers. I know they are an acquired taste for many, but I do like me some smokey beer.

As for food, we had more heavy German fare. Bill and his mom both got roast beef plates with vegetables and horseradish. I got a pork knuckle with sauerkraut and potato dumplings. I don’t usually get knuckles, because I can’t finish them. But the one I had on Wednesday was manageable. Bill and I also tried a Rauchweizen, which was like a wheat beer with smokey flavor. It was a bit lighter. I think Bill preferred it to the Rauchbier. By the time we finished lunch, the restaurant had emptied out. 

We walked around Bamberg to burn off some of our lunch. I can’t say it was a really enjoyable walk, thanks to the wind and rain, but at least it wasn’t super cold. I managed to visit a few more churches, too, and Parker bought some gifts for her co-workers in Texas. One other thing I want to mention is the very convenient public WC near the Rathaus. That was a lifesaver after lunch! St. Elisabeth’s Church had beautiful windows on display.

Our stay in Bamberg was brief, as the weather was getting worse as the afternoon wore on. But now that I have an idea of what the town looks like, I know I want to go back and explore it some more. The train ride back was a bit more crowded, as it was quitting time. Our guide at the wine tasting mentioned that he lived in Bamberg, which probably meant he got on a train going the other direction just as we were leaving. Bamberg is definitely enchanting. Bill and I will have to go back and enjoy it when the sun is shining and Biergartens are open!

Here are a few more artsy photos of Bamberg… It really is a handsome town, even when the weather sucks.

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Sundays

Celebrating swine in Stuttgart…

Pig out!

Need something to do on a Sunday?  May I suggest Stuttgart’s kitschiest museum?  It’s a place utterly dedicated to the pig and the largest pig museum in the world, the Stuttgart Schweine Museum.

I don’t remember where I first heard about this place.  I want to say it was mentioned in a local Facebook group.  I know I also saw it highlighted in an online magazine article about quirky museums.  What can I say?  My people are originally from the same area where Foamhenge existed for years (it has since been moved to a new location).  I’m a sucker for the surreal.

I suggested a trip to the pig museum last weekend, but Bill and I were sidetracked by beer and wine tastings.  I thought we might go yesterday, but then we decided to go to Herrenberg today.  We thought about postponing our trip for another week when I realized how beautiful the weather is today.  I thought maybe the Schweine Museum might be better on a rainy day.  After some discussion, Bill and I decided we’d go… and then maybe drop by Killesberg Park for awhile.  Little did we know how absolutely HORRIBLE traffic was going to be.

At this point, we were very close to the museum… it still took about ten minutes to get there.  I think there was a game going on, which also made parking difficult.

 

Bill made me laugh pretty hard as we drove through one of Stuttgart’s many tunnels.  The GPS told him to make a U-turn and he said, “What?  I’m not making a U-turn!  Screw you!”  He gets pretty funny when he converses with computerized objects.  Thanks to the traffic going to a football game and the neverending road projects going on in the big city, it was kind of a challenge to get to the museum.  Once we got there, we had to find parking, which wasn’t so easy since a lot of people going to the game were availing themselves of parking at the pig museum.  Fortunately, we drove my Mini Cooper…

Props to Bill for his parking job.  He managed to squeeze into a tight spot.

 

Pigs are everywhere at the Schweine Museum.

The Schweine Museum has a very nice biergarten in the front and back.  There’s also a nice restaurant (called the Schlachthof Restaurant) on the first floor of the museum.  My guess is that many people come there for the food.  We saw plenty of people who were obviously in the area for football having lunch at the biergarten.  It was pretty full when we arrived, but had emptied out somewhat after we finished lunch.  It’s worthwhile, by the way, to stop in for food at the museum.  They had some great stuff, naturally inspired by pork. For those who aren’t pork eaters, there are other selections available.  Vegetarians and vegans might be a bit challenged, though.

Come on in… sit down and have a beer and a cigarette, if you want.  Smoking is allowed.

 

Someone (not me) obviously got bored while waiting for their order…  I have to admit being impressed.  It never would have occurred to me to add these features to the beer coasters.  I decided to be a good Samaritan and take these with me, lest any innocent children see them.

 

Bill laughs when I show him the adulterated coasters.

 

For lunch, Bill chose the barbecue pork burger, which came with onion rings, potato wedges, and kraut.  I had bratwurst, which also came with potato wedges and barbecue sauce.  Bill and I were delighted with the quality of the food.  I noticed that the company providing the food is the same one that owns Ampulle Dry Gin and Beef Club in Stuttgart.  We visited that restaurant last July and enjoyed it.  I’m glad to see they know what to do with pork, too.  Edited to add:  My German friend, Susanne, says the museum was founded by Erika Wilhelmer, who is the grandmother in the family that owns the Wilhelmer Gastronomie Company.  Wilhelmer Gastronomie is the force behind several food oriented outlets in the Stuttgart area.

The usual beer…

 

My fancy bratwurst.  It was very fresh, although the BBQ sauce reminded me of what they put on currywurst, minus the curry.

 

Bill’s pork burger.  It was a hit!  

 

Other choices included everything from salmon filet to pork t-bones to beef.  They also had salads and soups, as well as a kid’s menu.  Our lunch was about 36 euros before the tip.  Service was a little slow, but the servers were working hard.  It was a beautiful day and they were very busy.

 

After we ate and visited the loo, we went into the restaurant to find out how to visit the museum.  They lady running the museum had stepped out for a minute, so we ended up waiting for a few minutes.  After she sold us our tickets, a guy came in and started asking about the restaurant, at which point she pitched the museum to him.  I don’t know if she was the owner, but I would not be surprised if she was.  I read that the museum was moved to Stuttgart from Bad Wimpfen, a location near Heilbronn, just a few years ago.  The museum was housed in much smaller quarters in those days, but still made the Guinness Book of World Records for being the largest swine museum in the world.

The swine museum itself is on two floors.  I didn’t see any elevators, so I would guess this attraction would not be suitable for mobility challenged people or those with strollers.  I wouldn’t swear to this, though, so if this post makes you want to visit and you have mobility challenges, you might want to call ahead.  It costs 5,90 per adult to see the museum and that is the most you’ll pay for an hour or two of kitschy pig related fun!  Below are some pictures I took while browsing the exhibits, almost all of which had English translations of what we were looking at.

Pigs like this one are everywhere!

 

Outside, in front of the museum, there’s a lot to see.

Artwork near where you buy your tickets.  Looks like they had private dining rooms in that area, too.

Hours.

The two pictures above show who eats the most pork out of 75 of the 196 countries in the world.  Austria is #1.  USA is #21.  Not surprisingly, several countries heavily populated by Muslims come in last.

A pig inspired barbecue.

These helpful signs are translated in English, so you won’t wander from room to room learning by osmosis.

I would actually love to have this table.  I love this kind of stuff.

 

Pig booze?

Sexy pigs.

 

Today, I learned that pigs are rumored to have 30 minute orgasms!

X-rated pig stuff.  This is just one picture of several I could have taken.

Although most of the exhibits in the pig museum are good clean fun, I will caution those who are sensitive about sexually explicit exhibits.  There is one room, easily identified because it’s red, where there are some items that may not be suitable for children or uptight adults.  However, this room is easy to skip and you have to look closely to find the sexually explicit pig figurines.  I almost missed them myself, until Bill pointed them out to me.

For Lego lovers!

Kids play area!

Someone should have given us this for our wedding…

 

All in all, Bill and I really enjoyed our visit to the Schweine Museum.  It’s an inexpensive and fun place to visit, the food is great, and you will learn some surprising facts about pigs.  They have exhibits about everything from where pigs come from, to their intelligence level, to what it takes to hunt them.  I had no idea, for instance, that male boars in the wild are so cunning and dangerous.  There are also some interesting exhibits about where certain pig related sayings come from, such as “Casting one’s pearls before swine” and “Even a blind pig can find an acorn sometimes.”  I’m proud to report that I know more about pigs today than I did yesterday.  I would recommend this museum to anyone else who likes a little porking.

When pigs fly?

We also tried to visit Killesburg Park today, but there were way too many people there and it was impossible to find parking.  Maybe next time, we’ll take the U-Bahn and get there earlier in the day.

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day trips, Germany, restaurant reviews, Sundays

A walk at Monbachtal and lunch at the Schönbuch Bräu Brauhaus in Calw

We had absolutely beautiful spring weather today.  The sun was shining and the temperatures were very mild.  Bill and I decided today would be the day we took a walk at Monbach, a beautiful creekside walk near the town of Bad Liebenzell, which is about a half hour’s drive from our home in Unterjettingen.

We arrived at Monbach at about noon.  There is a Christian mission there, where people can rent a room or a holiday house and enjoy nature.  There are also walking trails where one can communing with nature.  Although we left our dogs at home today, we could have brought them with us.  I’m kind of glad we didn’t, though.  Monbach is a very beautiful and serene place and not having them with us gave me the chance to get some photos of a very handsome heron.

Besides walking, visitors can enjoy kayaking and mini golf on the mission grounds.  There’s also a sportszentrum near the Monbach area which includes an ice skating rink.  I haven’t been ice skating since about 1980, but I caught myself thinking I’d like to stop there sometime and give it a try.  Maybe it’s like riding a bike… or maybe I’ll end up breaking my ass.

Parking at Monbachtal is free, although it’s not particularly plentiful.  Below are some photos from our walk, which ended up being almost three miles.

These little signs were at the beginning of the walk.  They explain the flora and fauna you might encounter on your walk.

The walk had a lot of what looked like pasture areas for livestock.  We didn’t see any cows or horses today, but there was plenty of electric fencing.  I don’t think it was working today, but I wasn’t about to test it for myself.

This particular trail was for bikers, so we had many bikers passing us as we walked.

There were a few of these, as the path was next to railroad tracks.  One train passed as we walked and we could barely hear it.  They’re probably for drainage, but I bet more than one person has peed in there.  I am not among them, though.

I brought my new camera and played with the settings a bit…

 

I managed to zoom in and get several shots of this handsome heron, who was hunting for fish.  We also saw a guy fly fishing in the creek.

Information on fishing.

This is a snack bar on the grounds.  It’s mostly ice cream, soda, and the like.  There’s also a larger cafe near the mini golf course.  We decided to go to the Schönbuch Bräu Brauhaus in Calw, which is on the way home.

Many Americans living near Stuttgart are familiar with this brewery and its chain of restaurants.  Like many Americans, Bill and I have been to the Brauhaus in Böblingen several times.  The one in Calw is probably closer to where we live.  Today was our first time visiting.

 

There is a large public parking lot outside of the restaurant.  Most of the time, you have to pay to park there.  On Saturdays after 1:00pm, parking is free.  There are signs informing people of this, but Bill missed them.  A helpful local smiled and reminded Bill of the time, but he’d already paid.  It’s really cheap anyway.  I think Bill said he paid about 50 cents for a ticket good until Monday.

Bill checks out the specials.

The menu is the same as the one in Böblingen.  On Monday nights, they have all you can eat spare ribs.  On Wednesdays, they have burger night.  We might have to come back for the ribs.

We decided to have the Weizenbock currently available on tap.  It weighs in at about 7% ABV.  Weizenbock is traditionally offered during Lent, so it was nice to get to try it.  Weizenbocks were brewed in the Middle-Ages at monasteries.  They were the only source of energy that monks were allowed to get during Lent.  

I decided to have the Schweinshaxe, something I enjoy but rarely order because it’s always way too much for me to finish.  I was hungry after our walk, though, and having missed it at Funzel last weekend, I decided today was a good day for a pork knuckle.  Bill went with the Schweinebraten, which is never a disappointment in these parts.  Our waitress was very friendly and spoke English.

My pork knuckle came with farmhouse bread.  It was very fresh and tasted like it was made with beer.    I only ate one piece, though, because I knew I was about to be hit with plenty of protein.

And here it is in all its glory!  It was delicious, but I have enough leftover to last the rest of the week!

Bill’s dish came with spaetzle and red cabbage.  His lunch wasn’t impossible to finish.

I cracked a dirty joke to get Bill to make this face.

 

Cheers!

I confess, part of the reason I didn’t finish more of the pork knuckle is because I wanted a piece of Black Forest cake.  Bill and I split this, which was a wise decision.  It wasn’t too heavy or sweet, so it turned out okay.

This is the inside of the Calw version of the Brauhaus.  I think I prefer it to the one in Böblingen.  The inside reminds me a little of a church.  There’s also a nice outside dining area.  ETA: A German friend tells me this used to be a gym, hence the high ceilings…

 

Our bill was about 36 euros.  Bill rounded up to 40 euros.  Our kind waitress wished us a pleasant stay in Germany and seemed surprised when we told her we live here.  I promised her that I’m working on my German.

See the sign that says “Nette Toilette”?  Last time we visited Calw, I noticed them all over the city.  I did some research and learned that Calw is a city that participates in the Nette Toilette program (nice toilet).  Local businesses get paid to allow non-patrons to use their bathrooms.  It’s a win/win/win.  Visitors are less likely to pee in the alleys and the city doesn’t have to equip the city with public toilets.  Businesses get more traffic and potential customers, as well as money from the local government.

All in all, it was a pleasant visit… well worth the trip!

 

We had a really nice visit to Monbach today.  The weather was amazing.  I was reminded of how many nice areas there are around Stuttgart, just a little ways beyond the city.  We need to visit Bad Liebenzell and Calw more often.  Both are very pleasant places to spend an afternoon.

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Uncategorized

Dining inside at Anno 1897 in Möhringen…

Bill and I needed to wash my car today, so we decided to go to Kelley Barracks.  I had only been there once before today since last time we lived here, Bill worked at Patch.  Before heading to the car wash, we decided to have lunch.  Bill remembered Anno 1897, which is a restaurant and biergarten very close to where we stayed in a hotel when we first got here in August 2014.

We hadn’t been back to Anno 1897 since we moved into our house in September, but I did remember liking the food and atmosphere.  The biergarten isn’t open yet, but if today’s lovely weather is any indication that winter is over, we will be dining outside very soon.

The nice thing about Anno 1897 is that they have a small parking lot.  It was a little tricky parallel parking, especially since the lot is on a hill.  We managed to do it, even though Bill had to climb over the passenger seat to get out of the car.  He was too close to the bushes!

Entering the restaurant, it’s likely you will immediately encounter cigarette smoke.  You have to walk through the bar to get to the dining room, where people don’t smoke and there’s a glass partition to keep the smoke out of the room.  The same friendly guy who waited on us the last two times we visited was there today.  I don’t think he recognized us as he handed us menus with everything from gyros to flammkuchen to Wiener schnitzel on offer.

I decided to have gyros, even though I had them last night for dinner.  Bill had a Greek flammkuchen, which was surprisingly good.  Next time we go, I may opt for that, though the gyros are also outstanding.  We washed our lunch down with excellent beers.  I had a Zwickl Keller Bier and Bill had a Dunkelweizen.  I noticed that Anno 1897 has some interesting German craft beers available, including an enticing looking chocolate bock and what they call “Indian Beer”, which is probably like an IPA.

My lunch came with a tasty salad.  I shared it with Bill because he likes cabbage more than I do.

This is a really nice kellerbier.  I have only seen it at Anno 1897, though I’m sure it’s offered elsewhere.  I love the stone mug.

Excellent gyros.  The t’zatziki is to die for.  And I could only eat half, so I guess I’ll be having this for dinner, too.  Talk about pork overload!

I really enjoyed tasting Bill’s flammkuchen.  I don’t usually like fresh tomatoes that much, but they were great on this dish.  The sweet, mild peppers added a nice touch, as did the feta, gyros pieces, and black olives.

Our Bill came to about 25 euros.  I noticed near the coat rack, there was a small basket of books and toys for kids.  I’m sure a lot of parents and kids appreciate that, especially since Anno 1897 looks like the kind of place where people linger.  Lots of folks were enjoying the bar today.  When the biergarten opens up again, look out!  It was also nice to be back in the neighborhood we were in during our first week back to Germany.

We did manage to wash my car for the first time since we got here.  It looks a lot better.  And we stopped by Panzer for various odds and ends, including a pitch fork so we can turn our compost heap and make some new dirt.

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