Czechia, East Germany, Eastern Europe, trip planning

Our fall vacation is now sorted and booked…

Today is the last day of the Rheingauer Weinwoche in downtown Wiesbaden. Bill and I are usually enthusiastic participants of that particular fest, which features lots of great food, entertainment, and thousands of wines.

But this year, we just haven’t felt like attending. We know what to expect there, because we’ve done it so many times in the past. It’s fun, but kind of “old hat”. Today, the weather is actually pretty nice. The sun is out, but it’s not super hot. I still didn’t feel like going, and Bill had to do some shopping at the commissary, anyway.

So I figured that since I’m not at the fest, awkwardly milling around, looking for a place to sit that won’t offend others… drinking wines that mostly taste the same… promising myself a hangover for tomorrow… I’ll just write about our upcoming fall vacation.

Bill has been working very hard at his job. He has a bunch of conferences coming up, some of which will take him out of town for days at a time. He’s going to Budapest again this year.

I went with him last year, but we decided I’d stay home this time. He’s got back to back conferences in Budapest, and the hotel he booked is in a less tourist oriented area. It does actually look like this year’s hotel might be better lodging than last year’s spot, even though it’s an Ibis. But it gets old trying to dodge the housekeepers, plus it’s no fun going to tourist spots alone, while Bill works.

Bill recently told his bosses that he really needs a vacation, so he arranged to take leave from October 1st until the 13th. Normally, we’d do a champagne bucket drawing to decide where we’d be going. However, this year, we both decided we wanted to do a road trip. I was particularly keen to visit Slovakia, because although we have technically been there, we’ve never done a proper stay there.

My first visit to Slovakia was in 1997, and I stayed in a university dormitory with friends. The second time I visited was a day trip to Bratislava from Vienna, back in 2015. I wanted to see a different part of the country, and maybe get some pretty photos of fall foliage. I also wanted to buy some art for the house, and have a nice rest in a spa.

Slovakia is not that close, if you’re going by car. That meant we had to decide where to stop on the way there and back. Initially, I thought I’d like to visit Gorlitz, which is a German border town where a lot of movies have been shot. I actually didn’t know that until I started looking for a good halfway point between Wiesbaden and the Tatra Mountains in Slovakia and southern Poland.

But as I was looking at Gorlitz, I realized that it’s really an underrated gem, and there’s a lot to see there. I also realized that I wanted to visit nearby Bautzen, too. And although we went to Dresden in 2008, I think we’re overdue for a visit there, again. I realized that hitting all of those spots would eat up precious time we didn’t have, and we wouldn’t get much “bang for the buck”. That area really demands a separate, more concentrated look.

I hadn’t originally thought of going to Czechia, since we’ve been there a bunch of times already… Valentine’s Day weekend 2009, we went to Chodova Plana and visited Beer Wellness Land, Chodovar. We had a great time, although that was when we learned we would be leaving Germany a year earlier than expected. 🤬

Anyway, after spending a couple of hours deliberating, I finally decided to look for a hotel in Karlovy Vary (also known as Karlsbad), a beautiful spa town in Czechia that is close to Chodovar. Bill and I did a day trip there in 2009, and I was impressed by how grand it was. It’s also where we met Nikolaj Korelov, the Russian artist who painted my favorite piece of art from our travels.

I actually wouldn’t have minded going to Chodovar again, and having a beer bath and a massage. They’ve really built up and expanded that place since 2009, and added a beautiful pool complex. The restaurants are nice– unless things have changed a lot. But I wanted to see more of Karlovy Vary and get some photos. I forgot to bring my camera on that 2009 trip, so I don’t have any good pictures from then. Karlovy Vary is a beautiful town. I’m sure in October, it’s a lot prettier than it is in February!

So, we will spend three nights in Karlovy Vary at Hotel Chateau Cilheny, a property located just outside of the city. There’s a train there, that will get us to Karlovy Vary in eight minutes. It’s also near a golf course (not that we play), and trails for walking.

After our stay in Czechia, we will move on to Slovakia, where I have booked three nights at panoraMic Mountain Residence, a self-catering apartment in Stary Smokovec, a touristy area in the Tatra Mountains. The apartment, which is our cheapest spot, gets rave reviews. That’s why I chose it over the much pricier Kempinski Hotel. I think we’ll enjoy it, because we’re mainly hoping for peace and quiet, forest views, and maybe some gentle hikes.

From Stary Smokovec, we will continue to Krakow, Poland, a city neither of us have yet visited. People have repeatedly recommended Krakow, although I had a hell of a time finding a hotel I liked. I finally settled on Kanonicza 22 another self-catering apartment located in the heart of the city. We will be parking at a nearby garage. This property has three apartments. We took the Duke Suite, which was the only one still available.

I picked Krakow because I heard it’s beautiful, but I also think we’ll try to visit Auschwitz-Birkenau, which is about an hour’s drive from Krakow. I know it will be a very somber, depressing experience visiting that museum, but I really think it’s important to go there and see it. I’ve read a lot about the Holocaust, but nothing beats actually going to the place where this terrible history occurred and seeing it firsthand.

I looked into staying in Oświęcim, where the museum is actually located, but again, had trouble finding a hotel I liked. And we did want to see Krakow itself. If it turns out we like the area, maybe we’ll go back… I thought about staying in Zakopane, too, but that’s in Poland, and I did want to stay in Slovakia, just to say I did.

After three nights in Krakow, we’ll move on to Dresden, and stay at Hotel Suitess, a lovely small luxury hotel we stayed in back in November 2008. I thought long and hard about booking the Kempinski there, too, but it was so much more expensive than the Suitess. We know where the Suitess is, and we know it has all we need. Why spend so much more for the most basic room at the Kempinski, when I can book us an upgraded room at the Suitess for so much less? Yes, the Kempinski has a pool and a sushi restaurant, but I’m not sure that’s worth several hundred euros more.

A few November 2008 era photos from our first Dresden trip.

I think this will be a great trip that will spawn plenty of memories. I hope to find some more art for the house, pick up some Chodovar beers and Il Santo water, and get lots of beautiful photos. If, for some reason, we aren’t able to get to Auschwitz, we’ll just come back… and maybe pair that with a trip to Gorlitze, Bautzen, and the surrounding area. I am still intrigued by those towns and want to do a trip that focuses time on that area. Hopefully, we’ll be able to do that before it’s time for us to leave Europe.

I will say this… we’ve been here so long, and done so many great trips. I feel very fortunate to be so spoiled for choices. And no matter what, we really can’t lose. We always have a great time, no matter where we go. But I did want to do something that doesn’t involve huge cities. I think I have succeeded in these plans. Wish us luck as I research things to do and places to dine. 😁

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German lifestyle, Hessen, YouTube

A kid friendly wine stand!

It was EXTREMELY hot last night. Nevertheless, Bill and I decided to attend last night’s wine stand in our Dorfplatz, which was hosted by the Förderverein der Kindergessettä of Wiesbaden-Breckenheim. Google Translate tells me this is an association dedicated to the promotion of children’s law. My German friend says it’s actually a Kita (daycare center).

In the spirit of being friendly to children and their welfare, this club provided the usual wine, along with a bouncy house and someone making kid tattoos! The ice cream guy was also there to sell his wares!

The ad on one of the local Facebook pages for this event.

Last night also happened to be the first day of Wiesbaden’s annual Rheingauer Weinwoche. I’m sure that event was packed, since it’s huge, and there are thousands of wines to be tasted, along with lots of food and entertainment. I’m sure Bill and I will pay a visit. It’ll probably happen tomorrow, since Bill has some chores he wants to do today. It’s also going to be hot again today. Maybe it’ll be less sticky tomorrow. I’m not holding my breath.

Bill and I were a little late last night, so our usual spots at the far back corner were already taken when we arrived. We ended up sitting at a front table close to the kiosk. It was a very HOT place to sit, as the sun beat down on the Dorfplatz. But it did give me a front row seat to the lively action at the bouncy house.

Wow!

Bill and I had wineschorles (wine spritzers) and steak sandwiches, as we chatted with a few people we know. Our new local friend, who grew up in West Berlin, came back and shared more about his experiences moving from there to Frankfurt in 1976! That was surely an experience… along with moving to a new city and having locals treat him like an Ausländer (foreigner).

We saw our American friends who have bought a house very close to where they currently rent. They won’t even need a moving truck to move into their new home, when the time comes in November.

I got some photos, too…

Although it was pretty hot, there was a nice sized crowd. In fact, I was glad it wasn’t super crowded. Then, as the neighborhood eccentric passed our table, the sun suddenly dropped low, and it got darker and cooler. That probably was the time we should have arrived… But Bill likes to do things early.

After a couple of hours, we decided to go home and enjoy some more conversation in our dining room. So ends another work week in Germany, and another fun wine stand in our village. I really enjoyed this one… the bouncy house was a great feature, not only for the kids, but for big kids like me. These days, I just watch the fun, though… I don’t miss the smell of plastic, mildew, sweat, feet, and the odd urinary accident. 😉

Edited to add: I took a couple of photos of the local ambulance service on Thursday. I’m not sure what was going on. They didn’t have a patient (which is why I took the pics). I did hear a lot of sirens on Thursday afternoon, hours after these pics were taken. It looked like maybe they were involved with the weekly market that started up on Thursday.

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German lifestyle, Hessen, Sundays

One last visit to the Rheingau Wine Week…

The weather was so gorgeous yesterday afternoon, that Bill and I decided to go to Wiesbaden and enjoy the last day of the Rheingau Weinwoche. As I mentioned last weekend, Sunday is our favorite day to go to this fest. It’s usually more laid back and low key than on Friday nights or Saturdays. I’m not sure what the fest is like during the work week. Our usual parking garage was “besetzt” (full) when we arrived, so we parked at the Kurhaus, which had plenty of parking.

We enjoyed a snack and some wines… I had a little quiche with bacon and garlic, and Bill had cheese bread sticks. We listened to the strains of live music and some American guy in a Nickelback t-shirt proselytising to a multicultural group. It was kind of annoying, because there was a smoker in the group, and when she finished her cigarette, she put her dirty ashtray at the table next to ours.

The carillon player at the Marktkirche was rocking out on what sounded like a very interesting cover of “Viva La Vida” by Coldplay. I love this about Germany… the churches are pretty secular.

This was a surprising music choice for a Sunday… I thought it was kind of cool, though.

We didn’t stay a long time at the fest. It was somewhat crowded, and Bill was not wanting to drink a lot of wine, since we drove. Still, it was a beautiful day with a perfect temperature– about 75 degrees Fahrenheit. I got a few more photos, just in case it turns out to be our last year getting to go to this particular festival…

We really have been fortunate to get to live here… Wiesbaden is a lovely place to live. Not that I didn’t enjoy Stuttgart, too… although the traffic was worse, and the local culture was a bit different.

I’m not sure what we’re going to do next weekend. There will probably be another wine fest somewhere close, or maybe we’ll visit another town. The possibilities are endless, and we really should get out more. Anyway, a new work week has started for Bill. Hopefully, it will be a productive one.

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Hessen

Rheingau Weinwoche 2025

Bill and I were supposed to go to the first night of the annual Rheingau Wine Festival on Friday evening. His company had reserved a tent for employees and their families. We usually go to that gathering and have a good time. But this year, Bill decided he’d rather hang out at home with me instead of being crowded, hot, and breathing second hand smoke. We usually go to this particular festival on our own, on our preferred Sunday afternoons, when it’s usually a lot less crowded.

So, that’s what we did today… We had beautiful, sunny, relatively cool and breezy weather. The lovely weather made it even nicer to visit this yearly event, which always seems to herald the onset of the fall season for me. I know we have about a month to go before summer is officially over, but years of living in Germany has taught me that in about a month, it’s possible jackets will be necessary once again. On the other hand, I have noticed that things are warmer now than they were in 2007, when Bill and I moved to Germany together with the Army.

Anyway, I don’t have much of anything to report on things that happened today, but I did get some photos and a few recordings…

The first thing we did was go to the WC, where a very cheery Klofrau (toilet lady) was taking one euro per person. She was kind of funny, so I didn’t mind giving her the money. At least the toilets were clean and stocked, right?

We started looking for a place with plenty of shady tables, so we could have something to eat. I finally spotted a good table near some live entertaininers– a guy from Ocean City, Maryland who sang and played keyboards and his German sax player. They were really good, and played music I loved. Bill went to get some bratwursts and pommes (fries), while I drank Riesling. I wish the food had been as good as the live entertainment was. But, the wines were all decent, so there was that.

I really enjoy Wiesbaden, if only because of the fests!

Just before the musicians were about to take their pause, a family sat at the table right behind us. I kept getting bumped by one of them, whose back was against mine. Then, someone from that table kicked rocks, and some wound up in my shoe. Next, a woman sat on the bench in front of me. She was nice enough not to block our view, but her husband then sat down and lit up a cigarette. It was allowed, of course, but pretty annoying. We decided to get up and move to the next booth, run by Barth Weingut, which is a local favorite of mine. When they saw that we were moving, the table muggers quickly moved to take our vacated spots.

Below are some more photos from the other booths we visited. I hope we’ll get to go back again, before the festival ends a week from today.

As for yesterday, we mostly spent it hanging out in the backyard, listening to music, drinking wine and beer, and tearing down the ivy on one of the fences. We didn’t quite finish the job, but now the yard looks both a little naked, and like a tornado hit it.

Bill loves the t-shirt. I ordered it for him a month ago, but it just got to us, along with a couple of others. This coming Saturday, we’ll finally be getting a new mattress, which means somehow hauling the 16 years old one out to be picked up. That will be fun.

I wish I had more fun things to report on… but it does look like I might be able to go somewhere with Bill soon. When the plans are in place, I’ll announce where.

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Hessen

The Rheingau Wine Festival… August 17, 2024…

Yesterday, Bill and I decided to go to the Rheingau Wine Festival in downtown Wiesbaden. This is a yearly event that happens every August. When there’s not a pandemic going on and we’re in town, we always make a point of attending this festival. Bill’s company often hosts a table on the opening night, but this year, Bill had a business trip and was too tired to attend the company event. We usually go on our own, anyway, and that’s usually more fun for us. Instead of just sitting at one winery’s stand, we can visit several different ones and try different wines.

As it turned out yesterday, we tried wines at three different stands, two of which were near a stage where a FABULOUS band called Swingtett was playing. Because I am a music lover, we ended up picking wineries near the stage so we could enjoy the music and watch all of the people dancing. I took videos and combined them into this super long video posted below. I don’t expect anyone to watch the whole thing, because it’s really long. On the other hand, I have trouble deciding what to edit out! The video is more for me, anyway, so we can remember this experience.

I was happy to see the WC providers offered a “day ticket” for four euros. We could either pay by the visit, or get the day ticket and pee all we wanted on that day. Bill sprang for the day ticket for me, and it definitely came in handy.

A long video featuring Swingtett! I also made a YouTube version.

The festival is also running today; it will close tonight. I’m not sure if we’ll go today, but I wouldn’t be averse to it. Wiesbaden is such a beautiful city, and when you add in wine and music, it really does become magical. In the video, you can see how family friendly this festival is, as children joined in with the dancing. One adorable little tyke was right by the stage, conducting!

My only regret is that I tend to drink more than I should at this particular fest. We don’t always stop for food, either, although we did decide to have a sausage break before we went home. We left at just the right time, too, as it started to rain as we were headed for the garage.

Below are some photos from yesterday…

I’m not sure if we’ll go to the wine festival again today. It might be a better idea to stay home and relax. However, this particular fest only comes around in August, so maybe we will go again. It depends on the weather. It looks a little rainy today.

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