Hessen, Sundays

We visited Marburg for Bill’s birthday!

I’m sure people who have been reading this blog for awhile might have noticed that Bill and I have sort of fallen out of the habit of enjoying Germany. I think a lot of it has to do with the COVID-19 pandemic. Before the pandemic, we made a point of going out on the weekends, exploring new places and/or trying different restaurants. But then we were locked down for months on end and we got out of the habit. Then I got out of shape and started dealing with some minor health issues.

Sometimes we do remember the old days, though. I was in kind of a bad mood on Saturday, plus we had cloudy, rainy skies. By the time I realized Saturday was getting away from us, it was already afternoon. Bill decided then that he wanted to be sure to go out yesterday, in honor of his 60th birthday. We made plans to have a simple breakfast and get on our way before noon. Our destination was Marburg, a town I’d seen many pretty pictures of on Facebook, and heard about due to the Marburg virus outbreak in 1967. Bill’s co-worker told him his family loves to visit Marburg and visit the castle, which overlooks the city.

Marburg is a little over an hour’s drive north from Wiesbaden, mostly on the Autobahn. It’s not too far from Frankfurt, or Gießen (Giessen), a city that is well-known to a lot of older US Army servicemembers. At one time, there were thousands of Americans living there. Nowadays, I know of Gießen because that’s where most of the veterinarians at our local clinic learned their crafts. Marburg is about 25 kilometers to the north from that town.

As we approached Marburg from the Autobahn, I noticed the imposing Schloss. Bill said that was where we were headed first. Since it was his birthday, I didn’t argue with him. Driving into the city reminded me a bit of the many times we’ve visited Tübingen, another university town in Baden-Württemberg, close to where we used to live when we lived down there. Below are a few photos from our arrival. I was happy to meet the friendly cat who greeted us as we parked.

Marburg has lots of beautiful old Gothic buildings, and a rich history as a place where many of the Brothers Grimm fairy tales were born. Since I was also an English major and, as a child, was a lover of fairy tales, the fact that the Brothers Grimm lived in or near Marburg is also interesting to me. After visiting the castle, I can see where some of their inspiration came from. In fact, the painter Otto Ubbelohde was from Marburg. He was most famous for illustrating Grimm’s Fairy Tales.

The road going up to the castle was quite narrow and winding, and it was kind of a trick to manage it. However, I couldn’t help but notice how beautiful the area is. Some lucky people live in homes on the way up to the Schloss. I suppose the trickiest part is the parking, but they sure do have nice views, especially on days when the weather is as perfect as it was yesterday. For July, it was very pleasant, with light breezes, temperatures in the 70s, and lots of sunshine.

Bill parked the car next to the small Wanderweg near the castle. If we’d wanted to, we could have tried to park at the castle itself. There is a small lot there, and it didn’t appear to be full when we arrived. It was also one of the rare places in Germany where I didn’t see a requirement to pay for parking. This is a handy thing to know for those who are very fit, and very cheap. One can walk to the city from the Schloss, but getting there and back means walking up and down steep stairs. But you can park for free, so there is that… and it will burn lots of calories.

The first order of business for me was to find a toilet. Those, too, are freely available at the castle. Just go into the courtyard, which you can’t miss, and you’ll find WCs. Bear in mind that you have to walk down some narrow steps to reach them. Alternatively, you can visit the museum, which also has toilets that can be reached by elevator. No Klofrau is in sight!

After that personal necessity was taken care of, Bill and I visited the museum. Each ticket was 8 euros to be paid in cash. Credit cards aren’t accepted. For that, visitors get a nice tour of the well-equipped museum, which offers examples of pottery that were used at the castle, discussions on coffee culture (for the rich people, only), and a look at some of the art and treasures that belonged to the castle, which dates from the 11th century. Since 1981, the castle has been used as a museum affiliated with the local university, as well as an event site. We did notice a bride and groom having photos taken there during our visit. There is a restaurant near the grounds, but unfortunately, it was closed yesterday.

Below are some photos from our visit to the castle museum. We spent about 90 minutes there.

On the way out of the museum, we passed through the very simply chapel. A sign asked visitors to stay on the carpet, to avoid damaging the mosaic floor.

Once we passed through the chapel, we walked back out to tour the grounds. Below are some photos from around the castle and gardens.

After we visited the castle, we went to a parking garage near the center of town, parked the Volvo, and went walking around, looking for lunch. We eventually ended up in the Markplatz, which was alive with activity. There were several restaurants there, most of which were full of people enjoying food and drinks in the sun. We ended up at a charming Weinstube called Weinlädele at the top of the hill. Since the terrace was full, we opted to go inside, and spent a very pleasant time enjoying a leisurely lunch.

The food offerings at Weinlädele were somewhat simple, but the menu has an impressive list of wines by the glass. I happily availed myself of the wines, as well as a salad with chicken strips and raspberry vinaigrette. Bill had Maultaschen with Mediterranean vegetables. It really hit the spot.

And then, after lunch, I took some more photos of the very charming Marktplatz. A lot was going on there… and I was enchanted by the sights, smells, and sounds of life happening in Marburg. Bill and I both want to visit again and enjoy the ambiance of this pretty town in Hessen. An added bonus was yet another free WC near the parking garage. After our wine infused lunch, I really needed it before the drive home!

We missed the river scene. Marburg is on the Lahn River, and there’s a really cool looking Biergarten next to it, as well as boats… Again, not unlike Tübingen. We will have to try to come back and see more, now that we’re trying to get our weekend groove back. But I’m glad we were able to go yesterday, at the very least. What a lovely place to spend time on Bill’s birthday! A hearty thanks, once again, to the generosity of the German people for letting us Americans live here and enjoy their beautiful country!

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Uncategorized

Wine bar! And our very first visit to the Block House…

Yesterday, Bill and I visited the dentist in downtown Stuttgart for our biannual cleanings.  As is our habit, after we visited the dentist, we hung around downtown for dinner.  I was unusually stressed yesterday, but the truth is, for months I’d been wanting to try a certain wine bar near the Markthalle.  Die Weinhandlung Kreis is a small wine shop, but you can also go there to taste wines and enjoy snacks.  We’d passed by the place so many times and I wanted to go in to see what it was about, but every time I paused by the door, Bill convinced me to move onward.  Yesterday, I was determined to finally try the place.  And frankly, after my dental cleaning and the huge Stau that preceded it, I was in need of a soothing red for my jangled nerves!

Die Weinhandlung Kreis near the Schillerplatz in downtown Stuttgart is a very small place, but they have wines and local spirits.  Yesterday, I noticed they were selling Chartreuse and Monkey 47 Gin, which is a gin made here in Baden Württemberg.  We discovered Monkey 47 Gin when we visited Hamburg in January 2015 and since then, we’ve enjoyed it ourselves.  My German sucks, but I can see from Die Weinhandlung Kreis’s Web site that this little wine bar is just one address affiliated with Die Weinhandlung Kreis.  They have a main shop in Stuttgart South, as well as an online store.  They even have a vineyard.  I can tell that Bill and I are going to have to get to know this business better.

Anyway, the lady who was running the shop yesterday wasn’t super friendly, but she was quick to get Bill and me a couple of large glasses of vino.  I tried a lovely Gigondas that was very nice in the late afternoon.  Bill had a Spanish red that had almost a menthol tinge to it.  It was very interesting.  They were playing cool jazzy music on vinyl in the cozy tasting room.  Had we not had plans to visit the Block House afterward, we might have tried a snack to go with the wine.  They had quite a few reds and whites available, as well as at least one sparkling wine.  We will definitely be back.

Ahh… red wine in the afternoon.  You can get a small or large glass.  I went with a large.

Bill sporting his new sporty goatee as he enjoys a red.  On the wall, you can see a list of what was available yesterday.  

Tiny bar.  Sorry this picture is a bit blurry.  I was trying not to be conspicuous.  Behind the turntable is a blurry list of snacks.  We ended up buying a bottle each of the reds we tried.  It’s worth mentioning that this wine bar takes credit cards– even the ones from America! 

 

I felt a bit more relaxed after the wine and my stomach told me it was time for dinner.  I had been wanting to try the Block House chain restaurant in Stuttgart for some time.  Now that I have, I can write a review.  Later, I will write a post detailing all of our local steakhouse experiences.

I saw this on the way to the Block House and thought it was nifty.  It was in front of a shoe store.  

I also noticed this coffee shop right next to the Block House location on Eberhardstraße.  They sell cups of coffee, but they also sell beans.  We may have to pay them a visit, so maybe I won’t need to spend 40 euros in duty taxes plus $40 in shipping for Peet’s again!

The first thing to know about the Block House is that there it’s a chain restaurant.  There are 47 Block House restaurants, 38 of which are in Germany.  Two of those 38 locations are in Stuttgart.  In that way, Block House is not unlike Maredo, another German steakhouse chain that has two locations in Stuttgart.  Curiously, the two Stuttgart area Maredo locations are practically within sight of each other.

The next thing to know about the Block House is that it runs all day.  There is no pause between lunch and dinner.  This is a very fine thing.  We were able to visit the restaurant yesterday before it got super busy.  Indeed, it was somewhat chill when we arrived at 5:00pm and was pretty full by the time we left a couple of hours later.

Bill anticipates a good hunk of meat.  He said the restaurant reminds him of an American place.  I agreed.  In fact, they were even playing early 80s pop music, which I kind of dug.

 

Block House is a very casual place.  We were invited to sit where we wanted.  When we sat down and the waiter realized we weren’t German, he asked if we needed menus in English.  Of course we said no!  Bill likes to show off his mad skills… which unfortunately, I am still trying to develop.

We started with a very nice bottle of Malbec, along with San Pellegrino.  I ordered the Hereford Rib Eye, while Bill went with a Filet.  Both dishes came with salads and Block House bread, as well as a potato or pommes.

 

As we were sitting there soaking up the atmosphere, Bill got a strange look on his face.  I asked him what was the matter, and then it became obvious.  The waiter put my salad in front of me and it was loaded with huge sliced mushrooms.  I took in a quick gasp of surprise and horror because I have a phobia of mushrooms.  Fortunately, Bill was kind enough to take them out of my salad.

 

Next time, I’ll know to tell them to hold the fungus!

The steaks were very good.  I was able to ask them to hold the sour cream and got butter instead.  I could have also had garlic butter.  My rib eye was about 250 grams and cooked to a perfect medium temperature.  The bread appeared to be a bun sliced, buttered, topped with garlic salt, and toasted.  It was pretty good, if not a bit generic.

Bill’s filet and sour cream covered potato.

 

We decided to have dessert.  It turned out to be a treat.  Those of you who love lava cakes will be happy to know you can get one at Block House.  I have an aversion to lava cakes, so I went with the New York Cheesecake, which came with a lovely warm blueberry sauce.

This was pretty damn delicious!  I am a sucker for cheesecake, even if I don’t eat cold, stinky cheese!

Bill had the Eis und Heiß, vanilla ice cream with a warm berry sauce.  He enjoyed it very much.

 

The bill came to about 82 euros before the tip.  While it wasn’t the best steak I’ve had in Stuttgart, I will say that we did enjoy our visit to Block House and would go again.  And now that I’ve finally tried the Block House, perhaps it’s time to write a comparison of all the steaks we’ve had here so far.  Stay tuned!

The outside of one of Stuttgart’s two Block House locations.

 

This is the end of my restaurant review.  Stop reading if you have delicate sensibilities about sex.

On the way back to the car, we passed Dr. Mueller’s Sex Shop.  I have never actually been inside the place, but this particular chain store has the distinction of being one of my most vivid memories of my first visit to Germany in 1997.  I came here on the way home from Yerevan, Armenia and two years as a Peace Corps Volunteer.  The Frankfurt Airport, at that time, had a couple of Dr. Mueller’s locations within it.  I remember being shocked as I passed it.  So, in honor of that memory, I decided to snap a few photos of the location in downtown Stuttgart.  Maybe someday, we’ll venture inside.

Looks pretty tasteful to me.

 

Tune in next time for whatever crap I discover next.

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Baden-Württemberg

Dinner at Ristorante da Maurizio in Stuttgart

Yesterday, Bill and I visited Dr. Blair for the last time (I hope) concerning my new dental implant.  The next time we see him will be for cleanings in October, unless there’s some kind of catastrophe between now and then.  I will miss the frequent shopping and eating opportunities visiting Dr. Blair gives us, but I’m glad the implant process is finally finished and I’m thrilled with the results.  It’s great to have a full smile again.

After my appointment, we were a bit hungry.  We stopped at the Markthalle to pick up some eggs, fruit, and bread.  Then we made our way back to the car to drop off the goodies we purchased.  Since that put us close to Dr. Blair’s office again, we decided to find a restaurant on Calwer Strasse.  It was hot and we were thirsty.  I was tempted to hit a biergarten, but then I spotted Ristorante da Maurizio (now called Aria) with an empty outdoor area.  I had been pretty curious about the place over the months I’ve had to go to Stuttgart, but we never stopped there to eat.  Since it was just about dinner time, we read the menu posted on the outside of the restaurant and decided to have a seat outdoors.

One of the reasons I was curious about Ristorante da Maurizio is because besides being a restaurant, it’s billed as a wine bar.  To me, it felt more like a regular restaurant with a full and impressive menu.  The words “wine bar” might just be a gimmick, for all I know.  Maybe next time we visit, it’ll be cold outside and we can venture inside to try out the “wine bar”.

We decided to go with a shared appetizer and a couple of the weekly specials.  Maurizio offers a little something for everyone, though.  There are pizzas, pasta dishes, fish, and meat dishes available.  The weekly specials are also offered in three or four courses, which gives a slight price break to people who are especially hungry.  The “sea menu” was priced slightly less than the “earth menu”.  We weren’t hungry enough to go for three courses.

Bill checks out the menu.  At this point, we were the only ones sitting outside.

Bill obliges me with a smile.  I think he was reacting to a trio of annoying girls who were sitting outside at the health food restaurant next to us.  They were smoking, being loud, and I suspected they were making fun of us.  They also left without cleaning up after themselves.   We ended up paying for their negligence. 

Glad I took the opportunity to take this picture of the outside.  The tables quickly filled up.  More than half of them were reserved.

Bill ordered a lovely bottle of white from the Piemonte.  It was tart and citrusy, which we knew would go well with the seafood dishes we ordered.  

A nice basket of bread.  The breadsticks arrived hot and fresh and were very tasty.

We shared this first course, delicious sun roasted tomatoes, with avocado slices, toasted pine nuts, and olives.  On top is a mound of mild and creamy burrata cheese.  I usually dislike cold cheeses, but I had tried burrata at Ostaria da Gino’s in Nagold and loved it.  Burrata means butter in Italian and I do love my butter, though the cheese doesn’t necessarily make me think of it.  Burrata cheese is like very soft, creamy mozzarella and spreads kind of like room temperature butter.  There was a time when I might have turned my nose up at this dish, but I really enjoyed it yesterday.  I especially loved the tomatoes, which were very sweet and tangy.

The dishes left by the annoying girls sitting next door ended up causing a ruckus when a very aggressive pigeon discovered them a few minutes later.

The pigeon helped itself to their leftovers… I noticed a couple of staffers at the Italian restaurant getting annoyed.

Look in the sky and you’ll see another pigeon homing in…

Soon there were two of them… then three…

And finally, there were five pigeons feasting on the girls’ leftovers and making a big mess!  I can see why my former German neighbors from last time we lived here called pigeons “rats from the sky”!

The folks running the healthy restaurant were oblivious.  I finally encouraged Bill to go move the dishes to the cabinet of trays behind the table.  Quoting Dr. Phil, I said “This situation needs a hero.” Being a civic minded individual, Bill got up and moved a couple of bowls just as the guy running the frozen yogurt stand across the street went into the restaurant to tell the employees to come clean up the mess.  A young girl who looked very much “over it” came out and finished the job.  It was only mildly embarrassing for everyone involved.  

After some time spent chilling out with our white wine, our main courses arrived.  I had fried perch (zander filet) with sliced peaches.  There was a little bit of mint under the fish and peaches which gave the dish a refreshing zest.  The fish was served with cooked bok choy, spinach, a sliced carrot, and potato.  The whole thing was accompanied by a lovely white wine sauce.  I really enjoyed this dish because of the peaches and mint combination.  They were definitely the star attraction.  Without them, this would have been a somewhat ordinary dish. 

Bill had a simple course of tortellini stuffed with mild cheese and sea bass (Wolfbarsch).  It was also served with a sauce flavored with white wine and light cream.  I tried his pasta and I think I liked it as much as I did my dish.   Bill’s pasta was priced significantly less than my fish was; I think it was about 15 euros while my main course was 23 euros.   

 

By the time we were finished eating, it was a little after 7:00pm.  The terrace was almost full of diners and we were a bit hot, full, and tired of sitting.  Of the tree Italian restaurants we’ve tried on Calwer Strasse, I think Maurizio is now my favorite.  The dishes were all presented beautifully and tasted good.  Table service was very attentive with one handsome waiter rushing over to pour me some wine when I grabbed the bottle from the wine bucket.

The only negative I can think of is that smoking is allowed and the tables outside are close together.  Another couple sat next to us and it felt like we were all sitting at the same table even though we were both at “two tops”.  That’s not necessarily a bad thing if everyone’s friendly, but it felt a little awkward last night.  We paid about 83 euros for this meal and we’d probably do it again, though next time I will find a seat further from the health food restaurant next door.  Wouldn’t want to get dive bombed by a crew of aggressive pigeons.

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