We woke up to more clouds and fog on Sunday morning. I was kind of sad to see the fog, but was nevertheless ready to go home. I missed Noyzi and Charlie, even though we were only gone for a short time. And while Bill and I found Bad Wörishofen to be a pleasant enough town, I think the atmosphere was a little too geriatric for our tastes, at least at this point in our lives.
Our breakfast on Sunday was much the same as it was on Saturday morning. We skipped the egg dishes and fresh juices and just grazed from the buffet. Then, we collected our bags and carried them down the stairs, because the housekeepers seemed to be occupying the elevator.
The cheerful manager, who seemed to be trying so hard to make sure our stay at Hotel Fontenay was a good one, was waiting at the desk to settle the bill. Three nights, dinner on the first night, and fresh orange juice came to about 1300 euros or so. We also had a bottle of sparkling water from the minibar, which bill ended up paying euro coins for to another employee as the manager went to fetch our car.
As we loaded up our bags, he said in German that he had a small gift for us, which turned out to be a little bottle of Sekt and a couple of bottles of sparkling water. He shook Bill’s hand and kissed mine as we got into the Volvo and waved goodbye.
We decided to take a slightly altered route home. Instead of driving north up the A7, which is a straight shot to Würzburg, a city not too far from Wiesbaden, Bill and I chose to drive through the town of Nördlingen. If you’ve ever seen the 1971 movie, Willy Wonka & The Chocolate Factory, and watched until the end, you might have caught a glimpse of Nördlingen. It’s a well-preserved, walled medieval town in Bavaria that looks really cool from overhead.
You can see Nördlingen at about the 1:30 mark…
I didn’t actually see Willy Wonka & The Chocolate Factory until a few years ago. I know, that makes me weird, especially since I grew up in the 70s and 80s and it was always on HBO. But I do remember when I watched it a few years ago, thinking that the town of Nördlingen looked really interesting. Since the detour didn’t add much time to our drive back to Wiesbaden, we decided to go that way. I’m glad we did. Nördlingen is, indeed, a really cute town. I wouldn’t mind visiting there at some point… if the fates allow.
Below are some photos from our drive home. We did get some sunshine as we left Bavaria, and by the time we got home, the weather was positively gorgeous. We wound up on the Romantic Road, as as we approached Nördlingen, we got a nice view of the Harburg Castle.
No birds were killed by these windmills.I think this is Harburg Castle, which looks over the Romantic Road approaching Nördlingen.Nördlingen
I wish we’d had time to walk around Nördlingen. It really is a charming town, from what we saw as we passed through it. Maybe our next Bavarian trip will be there. I also wish it had been closer to lunchtime when we passed through, as our next stop was at a McDonald’s. It’s been a long time since I last went to McDonald’s, and I can’t say the experience was particularly appetizing. It was very crowded and our food was almost cold. I also can’t get used to the automated experience of eating at McDonald’s. But at least the rest of the drive was pretty.
I wish I could have gotten a better picture of this area. It was very pretty, but we were in a speeding car…
After we unpacked everything, Bill went to get the dogs. I stayed home and did laundry and worked on this travel series. As I write this post today, it looks like Trump is going to be heading back to the White House. The thought of that makes me despair. I truly hoped my countrymen were better than this…
But anyway… at least we got to see Bad Wörishofen. It was a very nice looking town that offered us a change of scenery during this crazy election year for us Americans. Next week, we will be going to Belgium and The Netherlands. Hopefully, that will make me feel more hopeful about the future.
Stay tuned for my usual ten things I learned post.
A few days ago, I mentioned that there are a lot of attractions in the Bad Wörishofen area. There’s also a train station in the town that is easy to access, as well as lots of buses. We also had our trusty Volvo. I also mentioned that we might decide to just rest. Then I added that Bill needed rest a lot more than I did.
Well… guess who needed to rest.
We made our way to breakfast at about 8:30 AM, noting the cloudy, foggy, noticeably chillier conditions outside. Bill wanted to shop for a gift for one of his co-workers, who always brings him booze when he travels. Other than that, we didn’t really have much of an agenda. And although the waiter told us that the chef was ready to make us eggs if we wanted them, we decided to skip the hot dish and just graze from the breakfast buffet. We also skipped the super expensive fresh juices, especially since we own our own juicer and can make fresh squeezed orange juice at home.
After breakfast, we walked back into the town center and ducked into a few shops to see if Bill could find something for his friend. We weren’t lucky, even though most of the regular shops were open on Saturday. We did go into the city market and bought some liqueurs for us, but Bill wanted local whiskey or something similar for his friend. We didn’t find anything like that.
We walked around some more and I took some more photos. The pictures weren’t as pretty on Saturday, since we had no sunshine, but I did see some really cute dogs waiting outside the grocery store for their owners. And then, I started feeling a little lightheaded, almost like I was hungry and overheated at the same time.
The Gasthof where we had dinner on Friday night.There was a huge cemetery in the other direction of this Allianz office. I noticed people went to visit their dead loved ones.Where we found some liqueurs.I was sorry this place was closed. Apparently one of the workers was sick.One of the places where people can wade in the water and take in some Kneipp therapy.Another look at the pond. It has a different appearance when there’s no sunshine.Homage to Sebastian Kneipp!
Since, by the time we’d taken our walk, it was getting close to lunchtime, and I was feeling kind of lightheaded, Bill decided we should go eat. It was about 12:30 PM by that time, anyway. So we looked around for a place to go… I did notice that there were a lot of closed businesses and empty rental spaces in Bad Wörishofen. November 1 is kind of when the low season starts, so it makes sense that some businesses would close. But I was surprised by the number of empty retail spaces. I don’t know what was up with that.
I saw an ad for an Italian place that looked appealing. It was called Rossini’s Restaurant, and it was located not far from the train station. Bill said he wasn’t sure if it would be open, but when we approached, we noticed there were lights on in the dining room. So we walked in and were invited to take a seat. I smiled at the couple who had brought their lovely, well behaved, shaggy dog with them. I love that dogs are welcome in many restaurants in Germany.
I thought the pizzas at Rossini’s looked really good, but I can never finish individual pizzas by myself. Bill and I both ended up ordering pasta. I had Tagliatelle Salmone, which was ribbon pasta paired with salmon and a light tomato cream sauce. Bill had Tagliolini Paglia e Fieno, which was green and white tagliatelle pasta with shrimp. We also had a bottle of Montepulciano and San Pellegrino. They gave us a house “shot” of prosecco, too, as an aperitif.
This is a tried and true dish for me… Bill enjoyed his dish, too. The shrimps were a nice touch with the light lemon sauce.Another shot with some Parmesan cheese!A shot of the front of Rossini’s.
Business was rather slow on Saturday. Besides us, there were two couples, and an older man who came in alone and drank some beer. I think we were the last ones out at about 1:15 PM. Although lunch hours are advertised until 2:00 PM, we heard the waiter lock the front door as we left! I guess it wasn’t worth staying open. Even though it was a holiday weekend and there were some people visiting Bad Wörishofen, I wouldn’t say it was particularly crowded.
We decided to head back to the hotel. On the way there, we stopped at a quirky little produce shop that also had drinks and candy. The proprietor spoke English and was happy to help Bill pick out a couple of Italian wines and some chocolate. We made our way back to the room and I started to read a book. Before I knew it, I was sound asleep. I took a very long nap, while Bill sat in one of the Q-bert chairs! I guess I did need a rest, after all…
A heart shaped bench in Bad Wörishofen…Cute little shop where one can find fruit, wines, water, and candy… and that’s about it!
Because the weather wasn’t all that welcoming, we decided to just watch German TV, drink wine, and eat fruit and chocolate. Maybe it wasn’t the healthiest choice to make, but we were satisfied. And we slept well through the night, too.
Friday morning was the first day of November. It was also All Saints’ Day, which is a religious holiday in parts of Germany. On this day, Christian Germans honor the lives of every saint. They also remember deceased friends and loved ones and visit their graves.
We were getting ready to go to breakfast on the morning of All Saints’ Day, when the door to our room suddenly opened. It was the housekeeper who, for some reason, didn’t knock before opening the door. It wasn’t a huge deal, since we were a minute away from leaving for breakfast, anyway. However, it did kind of reinforce the fact that the hotel may not be on par with what most people would consider “five star”. It has a lot of amenities, but some of the staff might need a refresher course on courtesy and delivering proper service. The housekeeper did apologize profusely. I’m just glad I was dressed!
Bavaria is a part of Germany where there are still many religious people, so many folks were definitely celebrating the holiday. I probably shouldn’t have been surprised, but I noticed as we were having breakfast that the hotel was playing several hymns over their sound system. I didn’t count how many hymns they chose, but it seemed like there were maybe four or five that played on a loop as we enjoyed breakfast. Hotel Fontenay has the usual buffet, and egg dishes are also available. If you want fresh juice, there’s an additional charge. The staff was so nervous about our lack of German fluency that they hunted down a room service menu for us that was in English. That was not necessary, as Bill and I can certainly speak restaurant English! But I give them an A for effort.
We both decided to have egg dishes on our first morning. I had “Spiegelei”– sunny side up eggs, with a side of ham. Bill had “Rührei”– scrambled eggs, with a side of bacon. I might have gone for the bacon, but I don’t like the way Germans usually cut it. It’s very thin and crisp. I like my bacon thicker and not crunchy. We also had fresh squeezed orange juice, which I could have sworn was priced at 3 euros in the menu. But the next day, we got a bill for 14 euros. The juice was 7 euros a glass! Oh well… at least it tasted good.
Breakfast:
After breakfast, we stepped outside to see what the weather was like. It was just slightly brisk and the sun was out, so I decided to ditch my cardigan. I didn’t even take my purse with me as we walked and talked, noticing all of the places offering Kneippen treatments and other spa services. Bad Wörishofen also has a salt grotto, where one can go and sit enjoy the health benefits of salt.
The Kneippen therapy is based on the benefits of exercise, good nutrition, and walking knee deep in cold water to stimulate the circulation. There are also baths meant for soaking one’s arms. Sebastian Kneipp’s philosophy was that good health requires us to create harmony between mind, body and soul. Bad Wörishofen has Kneippen stations all over the town which allow visitors to tread water and enjoy the health promoting benefits of the therapy. I did try soaking one of my arms at one of the public stations, but it was too chilly for me to consider walking in the pool!
Below are some photos from our first look at the town. As you can see, Kneipp is big business there:
View from our balcony…Glad we had sunshine!A public Kneipp station.Arm bathLearn about the history!This pond was teeming with life!So pretty!
As we rounded a block, I noticed the Sebastian Kneipp Museum. It was late morning as we passed it, but the museum didn’t open until 3:00. Maybe we should have tried to get back there to visit the museum. I do like to visit museums and learn about things about which I know nothing. But we ended up otherwise engaged.
Bad Wörishofen has a Kloster as well as a large Catholic cathedral in the middle of the town. Ordinarily, we might have ventured inside, but on Friday, there was a service going on. So Bill and I contented ourselves by taking some photos…
Bill was fascinated by this sculpture, which shows Jesus giving a blessing sign.This is the first time I’ve ever seen a handy bike repair station…I wonder how often it gets used.
We decided to go back to the hotel to check out the spa. In retrospect, I kind of wish we’d gone to the public Therme, since it’s huge and has lots of wellness areas. But I’d also seen some photos of Hotel Fontenay’s spa, and I wanted to try it. So we went in to see the spa, so we’d know what to expect. I took a few photos. It probably would have been a good time to visit there, since there were only a couple of people using it at that time of the day. But we decided to go have lunch, instead.
Kneipp pool…Lukewarm indoor pool. There’s another pool outside, but it was closed when I took this photo. They later opened it.Hot tub that wasn’t very hot.
The spa also has a steam room, various saunas that are not “textile free”, massage facilities, and other treatment rooms. There’s also a room where one can have tea and water. To be honest, the spa area could use a renovation, although I did enjoy the massage jets and rocks. We happened to visit later in the day and were joined by a family who brought their two very young children with them. While I remember what it was like to be a kid, I don’t think spas at expensive hotels are necessarily the best places for them to be. But that’s just me.
Anyway, I want to dish about our lunch… which was at a really nice restaurant by the train station. Originally, we thought we’d eat at a German restaurant that had opened its Biergarten, but the Biergarten was packed. So we kept walking until I spotted a place that had very good reviews on Google. It was also supposed to have a Biergarten, but it wasn’t open when we visited. It was called Unsere Liebhaberei (Our Hobby). We later ate at the German restaurant, and it was clear we made a better choice by walking further at lunchtime.
A friendly young man invited us in and we took a seat at a table at the back of the restaurant. I was immediately impressed by the creative menu. The waiter apologized that he didn’t have a menu in English, but again, that’s not really a problem for us. We’re pretty good at restaurant German. We sat near a group of four older folks who appeared to be having a great time being with each other. They seemed to be well educated, as they dressed well and I heard them speak several languages. The waiter joined in, speaking flawless Italian. I felt kind of embarrassed by our typical American foreign language skills… When the waiter asked us what we were doing in Bad Wörishofen, we explained that we live in Wiesbaden and were looking for a short break in a nice town. And the waiter said, “Yeah, this is a town where older people come to rest.” No doubt!
Below are some photos:
Bread with Schmaltz (bacon lard) and olive oil.This was so good… corn fed chicken with rice, avocado, crunchy balls, sprouts, and a light dressing.Bill had pasta with beef.Desserts! Lemon mousse, brownies, and chocolate wafers for me…Compote with vanilla sauce, almond cookie, and chocolate crispies for Bill.This restaurant is a gem!
After lunch, we walked around some more and found a whiskey shop. Unfortunately, it was closed, because of the holiday and someone being sick. The shop also had a bar that opened at 7:30 PM. We probably should have tried to visit after we had dinner at the German place.
The weather was so nice that we decided to stop for beer at a cafe. It was during the typical late afternoon German coffee and cake hour, so we were among a lot of people enjoying cake while we sipped Weizens. The wait staff was similarly scarce at the place where we stopped, so we just had one beer… It was also getting chilly.
Yikes! Wrinkles!
I’ve already mentioned the spa, which is what we did after our beer break. The spa was okay, but again, it looked a bit old and in need of renovation. And we were joined by shrieking urchins… I’m kidding. I do like kids. I just don’t love it when they’re hogging the hot tub. 😉
By the time we were finished with the spa, it was time for dinner. We decided to venture out to a restaurant, stopping first at a Greek place that looked and smelled promising. They were full, so we headed to Gasthof Rößle, which was also busy, but had a table for us. This was a typical German Gasthof, which a huge menu full of southern German delicacies. I ended up choosing a special– Wels Filet– a type of mild white fish that is well known in Wels, Austria. I knew that because we visited Wels in 2021, and learned about the fish there. I didn’t get to taste it during that visit, though, since it was during the pandemic. Bill had beef rouladden… and we drank lots of Augustiner beer!
I was afraid the Wels filet would taste like catfish, since I remember that was what it was compared to when I read about it. But it was actually very mild and pleasant. It reminded me more of trout or maybe flounder. I would order it again.
Wels filet… it was very good!Bill enjoyed his dish, too.I was sitting by this. If you know me, you know that was horrifying!An ad in the restroom.Charming interior.The Biergarten was hopping earlier.
The restaurant was winding down at about 9:30 PM or so. I got a kick out of some of the other patrons. There was a large family who came in with four older kids. They spoke accented English among each other, so I’m not sure where they were from. I noticed they had a rousing game of Uno going on, which is not something we’d often see in the United States. At one point, the oldest kid, who looked to be a young teenager, said in English “Did you know that cannibalism could solve overpopulation and world hunger at the same time?” I was astonished by that announcement. I had a good laugh!
After dinner, we went back to the hotel. It wasn’t long before we were asleep again on the hard mattress. I was glad I brought Advil PM, even if I didn’t bring my own pillow. We won’t make that mistake next week, when we head to Belgium!
Several weeks ago, Bill arranged to take Thursday and Friday off from work. As I mentioned in the first post in this series, he was planning to get his teeth cleaned by our Stuttgart area dentist, Dr. Blair. Wiesbaden does have good dentists. Bill even goes to one up here, because last year, he broke a tooth and needed treatment while Dr. Blair was on vacation. However, I am very picky about healthcare providers. If I find one I like, I’m willing to travel. I like Dr. Blair and trust him, and it’s fun to visit our old stomping grounds. We have spent six of our married years living in the Stuttgart area, so it will always have a place in my heart.
We took Noyzi and Charlie to the Hundepension. Noyzi was delighted to be there, as you can see in the video below. He’s probably one of their favorite clients, too… he’s so sweet and friendly, and never causes any trouble. I’m sure Charlie will love it, too. This was only his second time there.
If they hadn’t opened the gate when they did, I’ll bet Noyzi would have knocked!
Once we unloaded the dogs, we enjoyed a fairly uneventful trip down to Stuttgart. It was lunchtime when we arrived, so we visited the Paulaner am alte Postplatz, which is a German restaurant very close to Dr. Blair’s office. We’ve been there a few times over the years, and we’ve never been disappointed by the hearty food or the friendly service in this Paulaner themed bar that is situated in the old post office.
This time, Bill had fried sole, which was a special. I had the “Fitness Teller”, which was supposed to be healthy. I guess, in retrospect, it kind of was, although I washed it down with beer. The dish came with a small piece of chicken breast, a salad, and a baked potato with Schmand (German sour cream with herbs) on the side. I don’t really like sour cream that much, so that was good for me. Bill helped me eat the salad! His dish came with Spaetzle, which is a local favorite.
The ceiling in our dining room. I love how quaint this restaurant is.A shot of the sign…Calwer Strasse
When we got to Dr. Blair’s office, he was at the reception desk, talking to a couple about an implant for the wife. He let us in, and told us to take a seat, since he knows us very well. I waited about fifteen minutes for a hygienist to call me back. Unfortunately, she started the appointment by annoying me. She asked me to swish some very strong antiseptic for a minute. Usually, they have a timer so it’s easy to see how long you’ve held the very strong stuff in your mouth. This time, there was no timer. I spat it out when it started to burn my mouth. She scolded me for not swishing long enough and had me do it again. And again, she said I didn’t swish long enough, although I probably did, since I didn’t rinse after the first swishing.
Her scolding irritated me, so I told her that I spat it out because it was burning my mouth, and I don’t want to hold substances in my mouth if they burn. She might not know it, but a lot of women who are menopausal have problems with burning mouth syndrome, as I do sometimes. But honestly, if she’d just put up an egg timer, I would have tried to swish for as long as the sands were flowing through the glass. I do have an Apple Watch, but it wasn’t convenient to time myself with it. I probably sounded kind of bitchy, but if you read about my recent experiences with German medical care, you might know where that attitude comes from. Anyway, we’re paying for the treatment, and it’s my mouth. I figure I can spit if I want to.
I waited for awhile for Dr. Blair, but then had to change rooms because the hygienist needed to clean someone else’s teeth. When he came in, he was his usual friendly self. He asked why Bill wasn’t getting a cleaning. I told him he was originally supposed to, but the appointment was canceled because of a lack of hygienists. Dr. Blair apologized profusely, especially since he knows we travel to see him. It was no big deal, though. Even if Bill didn’t have a local guy, he’s got to visit Stuttgart again on business in a couple of months. He could always slip in to see Dr. Blair when he’s down there for his conference.
When we were finished with the dentist, we headed southeast toward Bad Wörishofen. It was a pretty easy drive, once we got out of Stuttgart. By the time we got to our destination, I was really glad I didn’t choose a destination that was further away. It was about 6:30 PM when we arrived, and pretty dark outside. Bill and I were definitely ready to relax with a drink. It would take awhile before that would happen.
As we drove into the spa town, Bill found his way to Hotel Fontenay, which has its own parking garage. He tried to turn into the garage, which was locked, of course. It was pretty awkward to back out of there, even with all the assistants on our Volvo. He finally managed to turn the car around and get us to the front door. A young woman behind the desk welcomed us and told us she’d park the car for us after we unloaded our bags. Then she came back with a trolley and took us to room 220.
I booked us a deluxe room with a balcony. It was a large room, and the balcony was very nice, as it looked over the hotel’s lovely backyard. The one thing it lacked was furniture. They probably don’t keep that outside when the weather turns cold. I did see a balcony that had chairs, but most of them seemed to be bare. As for the rest of the room, well… it looked kind of like a relic from the early 1990s. The bed was large, but the mattress was extremely firm. We neglected to bring our own pillows this time, because we figured such an expensive hotel would have decent pillows. Unfortunately, that was not the case. I suppose we could have asked for extras, though. We had split duvets, which was okay with me. I got a kick out of the upholstery on the couch and chair. It reminded me of the old arcade game, Q-bert.
If you were around in the 80s, you might know why this couch made me think of Q-bert!
The bathroom had a tub and a rather disappointing shower, although the water pressure was good. I did like that the bathroom was in its own room, rather than part of the room. The television was small and tucked into an armoire with a safe and the minibar. There was also a built in desk, which I might have appreciated if we had stayed longer than three nights. Below are some photos:
A nice snack for us. We ate most of the fruit last night for dinner.The toilet was in the back room.
There was a door in the room that could be closed, which separated the bathroom and closet from the bedroom. There was a bright light that operated by motion detector. It was a little annoying, as we would get up to go to the bathroom and get hit with a bright light. On the other hand, it made getting to the bathroom somewhat safer. The door had a window in it, so even with it closed, that light would shine in the room, which might wake up light sleepers.
We decided to have dinner in the hotel’s restaurant. It was here that I noticed some bumbling among the staff. I have sympathy for them because I used to wait tables myself, and people have to learn somewhere. But this was supposed to be a five star hotel… Granted five stars doesn’t necessarily mean excellence. The stars are awarded based on amenities. So you can go to a pretty mediocre five star hotel that has every amenity and service you could ever want. Or you could go to a one star place with stellar service.
Anyway, we were directed to a table in the corner. It wasn’t fully set, and the candle was never lit. I think we were the only ones in the restaurant without a lit candle. It’s not a huge deal, but I did notice it… as well as the lack of bread plates and silverware. The waiter spoke English, and mentioned that he’d only been at the hotel for about two months. He was working the whole room pretty much on his own, as the bartender was a shy young Asian woman who seemed quite inexperienced.
I got the sense that they don’t get too many Americans or English speakers at Hotel Fontenay, which would make sense to me, since it doesn’t seem that well known among English speakers. Most of the clientele appeared to be older than Bill and me, although we did see a couple of parties with younger folks… including one that had children.
I decided to have the turbot dish, which was priced at about 58 euros. Bill ordered shrimp and scallops, which was 49 euros. They had another fish dish that was priced according to the weight of the fish. We thought the restaurant was just expensive, given the price of the room. We also ordered wine and sparkling water.
It turned out the turbot, like the other fish on the menu, wasn’t parceled out into small portions. I had ordered a whole fish, and it was enough for two people! I was shocked as the manager cut the fish, wondering if the other portion was for someone else. No… it was all for me, and Bill had his own dinner! Thank God we didn’t order starters! It came with spinach and basmati rice.
The amuse I waited a long time to eat.No candlelight for us…I wondered if my fish was going to be deboned.Bill’s shrimp and scallops.The seconds…Bill ate the second portion.
Naturally, we didn’t have room for dessert, so we decided to have after dinner Irish Coffees. That too, was a bit bumbling. The bartender brought out the drinks with the cream on the side. The manager saw that, and apparently, that wouldn’t do. He swiped the drinks and had the kitchen put cream on them. The drinks were good, and by the end of dinner, I was really glad to have them.
Before cream…After cream…
The bar at Hotel Fontenay isn’t exactly hopping, or at least it wasn’t when we were there, so we decided to go to bed after we ate. My gums were hurting after the dental visit anyway. Before we left the dining room, the waiter, who seemed kind of nervous about us, told us that when we arrived for breakfast, we should sit at the same table in the corner. I’m not sure why some hotels do the assigned seating thing, but I find it kind of annoying. I’m sure there’s a good reason for it, though.
I took a shower and a couple of Advil PMs. Soon, I was fast asleep.
The featured photo is of a public Kneipp station in Bad Wörishofen, where anyone can take to the waters for free…
Bill and I just got home from our latest long weekend, which we decided to take after finally getting in to see our Stuttgart area dentist. Originally, we were both scheduled to have cleanings done, but two hygienists were out sick, so they could only do one of us. When Bill got an email from Dr. Blair’s office advising him of the issue, he told them I would take the appointment. He already has a dentist in Wiesbaden, thanks to the tooth fracture he suffered last year and the need for an implant.
This time, we spent our time in a spa town called Bad Wörishofen, in Bavaria. I had never heard of the place before a few weeks ago, but apparently it is very popular among older Germans, as it’s where the Kneippen treatment method was invented by Sebastian Kneipp in 1890. I have no particular love for the Kneippen method, although I had heard of it before we decided to visit Bad Wörishofen. The number one reason we went to this sleepy spa town was because I was looking for a nice place to spend the weekend that wasn’t too far from Stuttgart.
Last weekend, we changed the clocks here in Germany. It now gets dark at about 5:30 PM or so. My dental appointment was at 2:00, but we couldn’t get on the road to our destination until about 3:30. I know how tired Bill gets as it gets dark, so I decided to look for a place that wouldn’t require sitting in traffic for too long… or be too challenging to get to from downtown Stuttgart.
Originally, I had considered cities like Ulm, Schwabisch Hall, and Augsburg, and places down near Lake Constance. But, for some reason, I couldn’t find a place that really called to me. I like spa towns, though, and Bad Wörishofen looked like it had a lot of nice hotels. So we decided to book three nights at the five star Hotel Fontenay. This hotel is also known as “le petit château.” The place got good reviews and the photos made it look promising, so I booked it through Expedia.com. It was definitely not cheap; I think it was about $365 a night. Now that I’ve stayed there, I think it’s a bit overpriced. But I’ll get to that in a future post.
Overall, we did have a good time in Bad Wörishofen. It is a good place to get some fresh air, eat good food, and enjoy some peace and quiet. There’s also a lot to do in the area, if you are inclined to venture out. Augsburg is not too far, nor is Lake Constance, or Füssen, which is close to where the famous Neuschwanstein Castle is. On separate trips, Bill and I have already been to Mad King Ludwig’s famous unfinished castle, which inspires the Disney castles. It is a beautiful place, but we both felt like it is the kind of attraction that one only needs to see once. I wouldn’t turn down a return visit to Neuschwanstein Castle, but I also wouldn’t go out of my way to go there. On the other hand, maybe it would be fun to go there with Bill. He went in the 80s, and I went in 2008.
Of course, if you want to stay in town, you can do that, too. There is a big Therme there— a huge indoor water spa. Most days, the main parts of the Therme are only open to people over age 16. Saturdays are family days. I thought we might visit there, but we decided to just use the hotel’s spa facilities. I now wish we had visited the Therme on Friday, but we had beautiful weather on Friday that I wanted to enjoy, and it was also All Saints Day, which is a holiday. The spa was open, but I wanted to be outside. Maybe we’ll get an opportunity to go there, if we have a chance to visit again.
There’s also the Allgäu Skyline Park, an amusement park near the town of Bad Wörishofen. You can also visit the Sebastian Kneipp museum, visit churches, shop, or take in spa treatments at any of the many places that offer them. We probably should have arranged to do that ourselves.
As it was, we had a fairly quiet, restful, somewhat boring weekend. I took some photos and we wandered around this previously unfamiliar sleepy spa town where Americans seem to fear to tread. 😉 I’m glad we visited Bad Wörishofen, although I can think of other towns I found more interesting.
This series should be fairly short, so I hope a few folks will come along with me on this trip to the Allgäu, where the Kneipp spa treatment method came to be.
The featured photo is from this time last year, which was a more fruitful time for my travel blog…
We didn’t do much this weekend, mainly because Bill has to go to Stuttgart this week on business. Our big thing yesterday, after I mowed the lawn, was to watch a German movie on Apple TV called The Lives of Others. I had watched the movie when Bill was gone last month, and I thought he’d really enjoy it. So even though we had beautiful weather yesterday, I suggested that we watch it together.
This was interesting to us, since we’re both old enough to remember East Germany– aka The German Democratic Republic.
The timing of watching this movie is timely, given that German Reunification Day was this past Thursday. Of course, that’s not a holiday for us Americans, but Germans get the day off to celebrate the reunification of East and West Germany. The Lives of Others, which came out in 2006, is set in the mid 80s in East Germany. It’s a fictional story about a hardened Stasi agent who has an attack of conscience while spying on a playwright whose actress girlfriend has caught the eye of a government official.
What makes the film especially cool is that the guy who wrote and directed it, Florian Henckel von Donnersmarck, was born in Cologne, West Germany in 1973, and was only 16 years old when the Berlin Wall fell. I am a year older than Florian is. I remember when it fell, too. Bill was actually living here when it happened.
When Bill lived in Germany the first time, from 1987-1990, he spent a couple of months guarding the Czech-German border. When we visited the Czech Republic the first time, back in 2008, Bill was very nervous crossing the border, because it was his old territory. He half expected to be busted by the Czech border patrol. Of course, nowadays, you can just sail right through the border with no issues. But we’re old enough to remember when that was definitely not the case.
On Friday night, there was a wine stand in our village, but we opted not to attend. It was chilly and cloudy, and we didn’t feel like drinking cheap German wine in the cold. Instead, we drank German beer, listened to my enormous playlist, and ate Armenian/Greek food from the Ararat Olymp Grillhaus in Mainz, which was available for delivery. It was delicious! We had lavash, khinkali, gyros, fries, flatbread, and tzatziki, and there was plenty left over for lunch yesterday. It’s nice to have Armenian/Greek/Georgian food so close and available to us for delivery. I do kind of miss our evenings at restaurants, though.
As for today, our big outing was to the PX/commissary, to buy me some cosmetics and food for the coming week. The commissary was pretty busy and it looked like it needed to be stocked. I guess the supply chains were running low.
I think the rest of the day will be spent on some mundane chores that need to be done before Bill leaves. We are hoping to get away sometime this month after we go to Stuttgart for our dental cleanings. We just have to line everything up with the dentist and the dog kennel. 😉 I’ve been looking for potential long weekend spots. I think we’ll stay in Germany, but I am not averse to going to a country bordering Germany, as long as it doesn’t involve a super long drive. Maybe it’s time for another trip to France.
Other than that, I don’t have much to report. The Apple Wine fest went on Friday and Saturday in Wiesbaden. It might have been nice to attend that yesterday. I forgot about it, though, until it was too late. Oh well.
I’m glad fall is here, but I kind of dread the weather turning cold and shitty. But at least I’m not being eaten alive by mosquitos anymore.
This ought to be a short post, as it’s just going to be about our trip back to Frankfurt. It was a fairly uneventful journey.
On our last morning in Sofia, Bill and I had our breakfast, then packed up all our stuff. I was kind of glad to be going, because I wanted to go home and recover from this cold, that is still lingering a bit today. I was also a bit apprehensive, because on Thursday of this week, I had my very first doctor’s appointment since 2010. Naturally, this means it was also my first visit to a German physician. I left that appointment with two more appointments, which means that regular readers can soon expect a few posts about German style healthcare. Whoopie!
I have already written a post about our visit to the hospital on Thursday. It’s on my main blog, and not as detailed as I would normally write it. I will write about it here, too, because this blog is about travel and the “German lifestyle” as lived by Americans. I did notice some differences. But I’ll get to that later. For now, the order of business is our flight back to Germany.
We liked our housekeeper so much at the Grand Hotel Millennium that Bill left her a note and a tip on the bed. Hopefully, she got it. We did see her on that last morning, just before we went to breakfast. I wish Bill had slipped her the tip then. She really was very kind.
After we checked out of the hotel, we got into the taxi that was arranged by the hotel receptionist and made our way to the airport. Once again, I was amazed by how different Sofia seemed in so many ways since 1996. And since this is destined to be a short post, I’ll share a few comparison photos. Below are pictures I took in 2024…
And below are photos from 1996.
Bulgaria was going through an economic crisis with massive inflation in 1996,Alexander Nevsky Cathedraland the art flea market. I bought a painting then, too.National TheaterParliament buildingSex shopSadly, dancing bears were a thing in 1996. I didn’t see any in 2024, as now it’s considered cruel. Thank God.
When we got to the airport, it was a breeze to drop off our bags. Security was also easy, as I didn’t wear any metal at all. We went to the lounge, which was sort of a generic affair that served all the airlines. I was pleased that there was a lot of comfortable seating. We didn’t try any of the food, because we were still full from breakfast. But they had a nice selection of treats, as well as an open bar.
The lounge in Sofia. It was pretty nice.
Soon enough, it was time to depart. Our noon flight was slightly delayed, but I smiled when I saw the plane we got. Lufthansa repainted one of their planes in a gay pride theme. It’s gay pride month, so it seemed all the more appropriate that we’d be on the Lovehansa flight. I think this was originally meant to be a thing for six months in 2022, but it’s still going, as you can see…
The inside of the plane has rainbow colored headrests, too.
The flight itself was mainly a piece of cake, with the exception of some turbulence we experienced early on. I entertained myself by taking more photos of the sky and finishing my latest book. There were a couple of guys who spent the whole two hours drinking wine. It was a very nice flight, and not completely full.
I think this was chilled chicken. It wasn’t bad.
When we got to Frankfurt, we walked for about fifteen or twenty minutes to get to baggage reclaim. But, happily, our bags were the first ones off the plane! We quickly found a cabbie to take us home. He didn’t know where Breckenheim is. Now he knows, and he said he liked the neighborhood. Unlike the Bulgarian driver, who seemed to favor Eurotrash dance music, the German cabbie played classical music. I preferred his taste.
Noyzi was delighted to come home, too. I think it’s possible the next time he goes to the Hundepension, he’ll have a new doggie brother with him. Charlie, another Kosovar street dog, is slated to join us around July 4th… two days after I get scoped from both ends by my new German doctor. All I can say is, I hope the drugs are good.
I woke up feeling significantly better on Monday, June 10th. Bill and I decided to walk back down to the centrum and pick up some new art and souvenirs for his grandchildren. But first, we needed breakfast. So down we went to the big restaurant on the third floor of Grand Hotel Millennium, where we had our usual room temperature repast.
While we were having breakfast, I couldn’t help but overhear two American men talking. I mean, everybody in the vicinity who didn’t have hearing problems could hear these guys… One of them was talking about his diabetes and how he takes Ozempic to control his blood sugar. The other guy was talking about similarly personal stuff. It always amazes me how completely unaware some people are when they’re in public. I see it most often with my fellow Americans, who speak loudly enough for everyone to hear what they say. It’s kind of obnoxious behavior… and trust me, I know all about being obnoxious.
After breakfast, we went to the room to prepare for the day. We ran into our very nice housekeeper, who asked us if we were checking out the next morning. We said we were, and gave her the approximate time we thought we’d be leaving. She said if she didn’t see us, that we had safe and pleasant travels. I was very impressed by how kind she was during our stay.
I put on a pair of shorts so I wouldn’t get so hot and sweaty during the day’s walk. Then we got going, and made our way to the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, where I knew we could find art for the house. We made one stop at a Coffee Brothers for some fresh orange juice and a potty break. While we were there, we saw two more Bulgarian women passing us who were having very loud conversations, seemingly on the phone as they charged down Vitosha Boulevard at top speed. The women weren’t with each other. They were going in different directions, several minutes apart. One of them carried a ladle as she screamed into her cellphone and walked very fast down the crowded shopping district. I’m not sure what was going on with them.
An old style barber.Borzois?What a keeper!This used to be Sofia’s best hotel.
We also saw the lovely violinist again. The same young woman who played so beautifully on Saturday came back on Monday to busk. I definitely liked her music better than the saxophonist who kept playing the same thing over and over again while we were at the Vitosha Street Bar & Dinner on Saturday afternoon. I love listening to talented musicians play music on the street. It adds so much character to European cities. I especially like buying their CDs. Unfortunately, the violinist didn’t seem to have any for sale.
Because we were going to buy some art, Bill decided to stop at an ATM. We went back the Ivan Vazov National Theater again, and I got a few more photos of the iconic building. This time, no one was playing basketball in front of it. There is a handy cash machine in the park like area around the theater.
Old Parliament HouseIvan Vazov National TheaterI thought this was kind of cool… A place for your bottles.Another shot of the St. Nicholas the Miraclemaker Church
We finally made it to the cathedral, where I noticed there weren’t as many people selling art as there had been on Saturday. We went to one stand when I noticed art that caught my eye. The colorful paintings were mostly of florals, but I noticed a couple of landscape paintings that reminded me of Sozopol, a Black Sea beach town Elaine and I visited in 1996. As soon as we approached the art, an elderly gentleman came around to speak to us. He spoke some English, although not as well as the much younger man who was with him.
It turned out the paintings that had caught my attention were of a different Black Sea town called Nesebar, which isn’t far from Sozopol. I’ve never been to Nesebar, but like Sozopol, it’s near Burgas and Varna, and is now a major resort town. The younger man told us that the paintings we were interested in were done by an artist named Violeta Stanoeva. She is an accomplished Bulgarian artist who has shown her work in France. Here is a link to her Instagram.
Bill had to go get some Bulgarian lev, so I stayed and talked to the younger guy, who kept singing the praises of the artist and the Black Sea coast. I was struck by how friendly he was, and I didn’t get the sense it was just because we were buying two paintings. I promised him that we would give a good home to Violeta’s paintings. Now that they’re hanging in my dining room, I kind of wish I’d bought another one. I really like her use of colors. I saw a few paintings on her Web site that I think are magical.
This one wasn’t done by Violeta. I spotted it in a gift shop and decided I needed it.
After we bought the paintings, we decided to have lunch. I noticed there was an Armenian restaurant called Egur Egur, very close to the cathedral. It’s not very often that I get to have Armenian food anymore, so we decided to go there for lunch. The restaurant is located in what used to be a music conservatory. There is even framed sheet music by the front door.
When we approached, a rather unfriendly waitress who didn’t seem to speak English pointed to a table. I would have tried Armenian with her, but she appeared to be a local, and I think she was the only one we encountered who didn’t speak English to us. I actually found it kind of refreshing… at least until she started yelling at one of the other servers, a very thin, Slavic looking young woman who managed to stay stoic. I’m not sure what the yelling was about, but it definitely changed the ambiance a bit.
I was excited to see that they offered khorovatz (Armenian kebab-shashlik-barbecue). Bill tried it for the first time in November, when we visited Armenia. It’s a very simple dish, but delicious if it’s prepared properly. So we ordered that, along with a couple of Czech beers and San Pellegrino. Bill had chicken and I had pork, and I actually asked for it by its Armenian name, which the waiter then translated for us. I don’t think he was an Armenian speaker, although he definitely looked like he could have been. Lunch was delicious, but more than we could eat! We probably should have just picked one and split it.
My only complaint about our experience at Egur Egur is that the chairs were uncomfortable for those of us wearing shorts. The hard wood dug into the backs of my thighs. A cushion would have been welcome. Otherwise, it was a very nice lunch. The waiter packed up our leftovers, although we ended up discarding them, because we couldn’t get them to refrigeration quickly enough. What you see in the last picture cost about $48.
We went into a gift shop on Vitosha Boulevard and found some magnets, a mug, and a few little trinkets for the kids. That’s also where I found the wood carving pictured with the art by Violeta Stanoeva. I was lucky to spot it, as it was kind of tucked in a corner in the upstairs of the shop.
After our shopping was done, I was kind of wanting to take a cab back to the hotel, but we ended up walking… All told, it was about five miles. That’s not bad for someone with a cold and a pretty slack fitness routine. Below are a few more photos. I wish we could have seen more during our brief trip, but we have reason to go back. It better be sooner than 28 years, though, because in 28 years, I’ll be 80 years old!
These fragrant trees were all over Sofia. They smelled heavenly!
One place I wish we had visited is the TSUM (Central Department Store), which was a government store that used to be THE place for Bulgarians to buy stuff. The outside of the store has an impressive facade that looks like it came straight from the fanciest communist architect, ever. I went there in 1996, when it was still operating more or less the way it did in communist times. Since then, it was renovated and turned into a mall, and right now, the mall is pretty empty. People just go there to use the clean and free bathroom facilities now. But I do remember going there and buying stuff in the 90s… and thinking it was the picture of a communist era shopping mecca.
Armenia had a similar place called GUM, where I bought some things when I lived there. Now, what was once GUM is a regular store where one can buy rugs. There is also a GUM shuka in Yerevan, Armenia that sells fresh food. It’s not the same thing as the GUM store, though. I’m writing of a Soviet era department store.
I read that the architect of the TSUM was Kosta Nikolov, and his son was murdered by the Gestapo in Germany in the 1940s. Nikolov managed to get ahold of his son’s remains and properly bury them. He kept locks of his son’s hair and a finger as keepsakes. Then, as the TSUM building was being constructed, the architect embedded a box with his son’s remains in it within the building. Nikolov was following a Bulgarian folklore tradition that embedding a living person or a shadow of a living person in a building makes it stronger. Many people thought this was an urban legend until 2001, when workers doing the renovation actually discovered the remains. They decided to leave them embedded there.
Anyway… it sounds like TSUM eventually became something that was no longer a store for the people, but rather for people with the most money. That’s too bad. Especially now that it’s basically an empty shell of what it was… and is now owned by investors. At least I got to see it, though… even if it was years ago.
Handy room service ordering system.
We decided to have room service on Monday night. The hotel makes it easy, by allowing people to order food through the TV. I had a salmon filet with asparagus and salad, while Bill had a club sandwich. We split a bottle of Bulgarian Chardonnay, sparkling water, and a piece of pretzel cheesecake. I think the cheesecake, like the other desserts we had, was the highlight.
Bulgarian wineThe last supper
One more post ought to do it for this series, then I will write my usual “ten things I learned” post. Stay tuned!
Bill and I slept in a bit on Saturday morning, enjoying the air conditioned hotel room and the fact that Bill didn’t have to go to work. We later made our way down to the third floor, where a huge buffet breakfast is served every day at the The Grand Hotel Millennium. The restaurant has two sides, each of which with its own buffet line, with eggs, sausages, baked beans, mushrooms (yecch), waffles, pancakes, etc. The left side of the restaurant also has a huge table with juices, vegetables, cheeses, pastries, cookies, and even candy. In the foyer, there’s a table with fruits, and another table with doughnuts, toasts, and a chocolate fountain.
There’s something for almost everyone at the breakfast buffet at the Grand Hotel Millennium Sofia. However, to be honest, there were a couple of things about the breakfast service that I didn’t like.
For one thing, the hot items were never hot. The eggs were usually room temperature, as were the sausages and potatoes. Granted, the staff would make fresh omelettes for those who wanted them. It never occurred to me to ask for one until I saw a Bulgarian family of four order a round of them– a man, his wife, and what appeared to be their twin teenaged daughters. Apparently, it was the father’s birthday, and they sang him a song, gave him a card, and even brought a couple of the desserts from the buffet for him.
The other thing I didn’t like was the coffee service, which was all self-serve and done by machine. It would have been nice if we could have just gotten a pot of coffee to share, rather than having to get coffee from a machine.
After we filled up on breakfast, we decided to venture into Sofia’s centrum. To get there, all we had to do was turn right outside of the hotel and start walking. I’d say it takes about a half hour or so to get to the absolute heart of Sofia from the hotel if you’re walking. However, there are also a couple of metro stops nearby and plenty of cabs to be ordered. Sofia even has bike lanes now, which I thought was very progressive. Below are some photos that capture my first impressions. The crumbling buildings are familiar, but the rest of it seems very new…
Bike lane…Near the hotelLots of McDonald’s in Sofia now…If you know me, you know this was horrifying to see…I see capitalism is really catching on…
Bill and I walked awhile before we stopped for a rest and listened to a lovely young woman playing violin like a virtuoso. I love this about Europe, but especially Eastern Europe, where people really value the arts. The buskers are top notch!
A very short clip of the lovely Bulgarian busker…
We continued down Vitosha Boulevard and passed several very historic and important sites. The city center is home to the Sheraton Balkan Palace, which when I visited in 1996, was Sofia’s best hotel. Nowadays, it’s one of several nice hotels, and doesn’t even get top ratings. I remember going in there to pee once, back in ’96. I noticed around the Balkan Palace, there’s a huge excavation going on. Signs by the site explain what’s been found in Bulgarian and English.
The Balkan Palace looked different than I remember it, but that’s probably because of the huge archaeological dig going on in front of it. I seem to remember in the 90s, there was a square there. It might have been a parking lot, for all I know.
There are also some important, very old religious sites in Sofia’s center. Here are a few photos…
Banya Bashi Mosque, Sofia’s only working mosque.St. George’s Church, which dates from the 4th century.Cathedral of Saint Nedelya.
In retrospect, we really should have stopped to tour these places, and the museums we passed. But I had my mind set on visiting the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. I had vivid memories of that special place from my first visit to Sofia, and I wanted to go there first. I even wore pants on the hot day, because I had a feeling it wouldn’t be kosher to wear shorts in such a holy place.
So Bill and I kept walking… and I took more photos of all I saw on our Saturday walk… Notice that English really is everywhere!
Ooh! Must be a hell of a drink!Bulgarian pastries
It had been so long since I was last in Sofia that I decided maybe it would be a good idea to use the GPS on my phone. So that’s what I did… and it was a mistake that added about two miles to our hike. We ended up in a strange part of town that took us past another cool looking church, the Orthodox Temple of Saint Paraskeva. What initially caught my eye was the playground in the back… but then I noticed the really interesting architecture, and the pleasant shade of the trees. One thing I noticed in Sofia were the fragrant trees. They smelled like lilacs, and maybe that’s what they were, but the floral scent perfumed the air in a very beguiling way. Alas… I didn’t think to take photos of the temple. I was distracted by these sights. Oh well. If we get back to Sofia, the Orthodox Temple of Saint Paraskeva is a place I’d like to visit.
I finally got frustrated with the GPS, which didn’t seem to be leading us in the right direction. I turned to Bill and said, “Screw this. I’m just going to turn off the GPS and wing it.” So that’s what I did, and before I knew it, I was seeing the gold domes of the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral.
On the far left of the cathedral, there’s a Museum of Christian Art and crypt. A lot of people walked in there and immediately walked out, obviously wanting to venture into the cathedral first. We did the same. I would have probably enjoyed the museum, but by the time we got to the cathedral, I was tired, thirsty, hot, and very cranky. So we went into the cathedral and spent some time admiring the splendor and mystery of the ornate house of God, which opened to the public in 1912.
As I mentioned in a previous post, it is necessary to be covered up when you visit orthodox churches. That means no bare shoulders or legs. I did see this rule enforced at the cathedral, as people who didn’t wear appropriate attire were asked to either cover up or leave. I was glad I wore pants, even though I was pretty hot.
After we walked around the church, we decided to look for lunch. We strolled around where there were artists selling their wares. I knew I wanted to come back to the church later, just so I could pick up some new art. But I didn’t want to do that on Saturday, even though Saturday is probably the best day to be shopping for art. More people come out on Saturdays with their paintings and such, but I didn’t want to have to carry the art around all day.
We wound up having lunch at the Victoria Restaurant, which is very close to the cathedral. I spotted it by the umbrellas with Heineken logos on them, which by then, was kind of like an oasis. Believe me, after our hot, sweaty hike, I was ready for a beer. Bill and I both had Bulgarian beers, shared a bottle of San Pellegrino, and salads. I don’t usually like salads much, but when it’s hot out, I will opt for them. The Victoria Restaurant has a huge menu, though, and offers a lot of different items. If I hadn’t been so hot, I would have been spoiled for choice. I see the Victoria Restaurant is actually a chain, with locations in several Bulgarian cities.
Yikes… terrible photo of Bill! I liked his salad better than mine.Chicken Caesar salad with cold cheese on top. I didn’t like that! Fortunately, Bill didn’t mind taking the cheddar for me.
Below are a couple of photos of the cool Turkish barracks located next to the restaurant…
Actually, this is the patio for the restaurant…
After lunch, we walked around some more, finally making our way to the Ivan Vasov National Theater and the Church of St. Nicholas The Miraclemaker. I remember going to both places in 1996. The church was being renovated when I visited; I distinctly remember that it had scaffolding on it at the time. We had some trouble finding the theater, until Bill remembered that it’s located right next to Grand Hotel Sofia, where he’d stayed in 2008. While we were walking around the park where the theater is, there was a little concert/fest going on, with little kiosks selling Bulgarian food and beverages, and a female singer capably channeling Adele and Amy Winehouse. The weather grew warmer, and we were both pretty tired, so we headed back toward Vitosha Boulevard, where we noticed a place selling craft beer.
Sofia literally has a yellow brick road.Ivan Vazov National TheaterLittle festChurch of St. Nicholas the MiraclemakerPretty gardens!
Since this post is getting pretty long and we didn’t do much on Sunday, the 9th, I think I’ll end here and continue with Saturday in the next post!
The morning of June 7th, 2024, Bill and I got up bright and early and prepared for our short break in Sofia. Bill gathered enough dog food for Noyzi to keep him going for the days we’d be gone. I packed a bag and took care of the usual last minute chores before our 3:00 PM flight, while Bill took Noyzi to the Hundpension.
We decided to take a cab to the Frankfurt Airport, because Bill didn’t want to fool with parking. I can’t blame him for that. It’s expensive, and the airport is so big and sprawling. You have to walk your ass off. There have been a couple of times when Bill has tried to get cabs and no one answers in time. This time, we had no issues. Checking in was quick and easy at the Lufthansa Business Class counter. As we were handing over our documents, I noticed a really cute little white dog sitting in a travel carrier. I couldn’t help mentally comparing the tiny dog to Noyzi, who is probably about twenty times bigger!
I had to take my laptop out of the suitcase. Somehow, I had forgotten that it’s not allowed to check them. After that, we made our way to the Lufthansa lounge, where we waited until it was time to fly. The lounge wasn’t too busy, although I did notice one guy trying to get his wife in when she didn’t have the proper credentials. Both of them were wearing really high-speed face masks that didn’t conceal their annoyance when the gatekeeper turned them away.
Chilling in the Frankfurt Lufthansa Lounge…It wasn’t too busy.
Our flight to Sofia was slated to land at about 6:30 PM, as Bulgaria is an hour ahead of Germany. It lasted about two hours and was downright boring. We didn’t have the slightest ripple of turbulence, even though the pilot mentioned having to fly around some rain. I did get some photos…
Some kind of cold meat with vegetables. Dessert was the best part.
I entertained myself by taking pictures of the sky…
WOW! English is EVERYWHERE!
I immediately noticed how warm it was in Sofia. Germany has been fairly cool recently. Today, for instance, I walked Noyzi in a short sleeved t-shirt and pants. I was actually chilly. In Sofia, it was mid 80s Fahrenheit, and I did a lot of sweating. We made our way to the baggage claim and waited awhile, even though our bags were supposed to come out first. While we were waiting to claim our luggage, I had Bill get me a SIM card for Bulgaria. It was very simple, as the local carrier, Yettel, has a kiosk right there in the baggage area. It’s cheap and easy to change out the card for short trips to Bulgaria and other places Yettel serves.
Once we got the phone and bags sorted, we walked outside and stood in line for a taxi. I looked around, immediately amazed by how different Sofia looked. When I arrived there by bus in 1996, it had seemed much less cosmopolitan. I mean, yes, there are still crumbling Cold War era buildings in Sofia, but there are also a lot of newer, modern buildings. I remember walking from the bus station– a dirt plot, really– into Sofia with my friend, Elaine, in 1996. I can’t imagine doing such a thing today.
The official taxi service in Sofia…
Bill handed the cab driver a slip of paper with our hotel’s name printed on it. The cabbie, who spoke perfect English, laughed in astonishment and said, “Where did you get this?”
Bill said he’d made them. I guess he figured the cab driver might not be an English speaker. That was a fair assessment based on both of our previous experiences in Sofia. But this time, I only ran into ONE person who couldn’t converse with me in my native tongue. It was incredible. This is not to say that I think it’s a wonderful thing that English is so prevalent in places where English isn’t the main language. But I have to admit, it does make things more convenient for us less lingually endowed Americans.
I ended up booking us four nights at the Grand Hotel Millennium, which is a HUGE luxury hotel on Vitosha Boulevard. It hadn’t been my first choice. I wanted to stay at a three star B&B near the center of town that got really excellent ratings on TripAdvisor. The guy who runs it gets high marks for being enthusiastic and helping people really experience the local culture. Unfortunately, he didn’t have availability on one of the nights we were in town, so I had to make another choice.
I had struggled over which alternative hotel to choose. Bill had previously stayed at the Grand Hotel Sofia, which is in the center of the city. He had a good experience there. Now that I’ve been to the city again, I might choose the Grand Hotel over the Grand Hotel Millennium, if only because it’s much closer to the center. The Grand Hotel Millennium is a very nice and comfortable hotel with ten restaurants, a spa, and conference facilities. It’s also near a metro and other public transport. But we tend to do a lot of walking when we travel, and such was the case this time. On the other hand, maybe it’s a good thing we were so far out. We probably saw more than we would have otherwise.
The room I booked was a Signature Suite. The lady who checked us in gave us a big smile and said it was “very nice”. She wrote what looked like the number 906 on the key card, although I thought I heard her say 904. Bill took the cards and we went to 906… which was already occupied! Oops! When we went back down to the reception to clarify which room was ours, the man who helped Bill said this happened “all the time”. Oh well…
We went into the room, which was huge, and offered floor to ceiling views of Sofia on two sides. The bathroom was as big as my childhood bedroom was. It had a tub and a huge rainfall shower, as well as a bidet. There was no minibar, but there was a small fridge, handy for storing snacks and drinks purchased at a local shop. And there was also a large, flatscreen TV installed on the wall, which allowed for ordering room service and getting announcements. Below are some photos…
BathroomViews from our roomAnother sideI got to know the bed too well.
Keep in mind, we were only on the ninth floor. This hotel has thirty floors! And yet, as nice as the room was, it wasn’t particularly luxurious. But then, it’s important to remember that a hotel’s stars aren’t necessarily about true luxury or quality. It’s about what services are offered. Grand Hotel Millennium Sofia certainly offers a LOT of services, and it’s a very pleasant place to stay. Last time I was in Sofia, the best hotel was the Sheraton Balkan Palace. I see now that that hotel definitely has a lot of competition.
By the time we checked in, it was already after 7:00 PM. Bill had been sniffling a lot, complaining about his allergies. I knew he was probably tired, as he tends to be tired as the sun starts to set. We decided to have dinner at one of the hotel’s ten restaurants. It so happens the restaurant that seemed most suitable was the Vienna Restaurant, which was advertised as “casual”. We didn’t bring any fancy clothes with us, and we noticed a number of the eateries had dress codes. Yikes!
So we went to the third floor, where the Vienna Restaurant is. It was practically empty. We were shown to an outside table on a patio, there one other guy was having dinner. I chuckled when I saw the menu, which was very “German”. They had all the stuff we can easily get here at “home”. But they also had Bulgarian beers, and a few dishes that looked interesting. I went with fried perch, while Bill had truffled pulled pork with mashed potatoes. Bill liked his dish. Mine was just okay. The fish was a bit bland, even with the tartar sauce that came with it. But it was not offensive and did the job of filling us up for the night…
We were about to call it a night when another server asked us if we wanted dessert. I realized we had nothing better to do, so we agreed to look at the menu again. After we ordered– Black Forest cake for me and Sachertorte for Bill– there came a sudden huge deluge of rain. We had to move to another table, because the roof was leaking on Bill.
I didn’t really want dessert, but I have to admit, I really enjoyed the Black Forest cake, which wasn’t so much like what we get in Germany. Instead of whipped cream as frosting, the Bulgarians used a cream cheese frosting. It was delicious. It’s been so long since I last had a decent slice of layer cake, even if it’s not something I ought to be eating. Bill liked his Sachertorte, too. I was actually hoping to score another piece of that Black Forest cake, but we didn’t eat in the Vienna Restaurant again. Phooey.
After we ate dinner, we decided to head back to our room and go to bed. I was already surprised by how different our welcome to Sofia was this time.
When I came to Bulgaria in 1996, I had a terrifying experience at the border with Turkey, as the border guards were very aggressive, and spoke no English. This time, we just sailed right through without so much as a nod to customs. And this time, we also didn’t have to worry about registering with the police, as Elaine and I had to when we visited in the 90s. Our Peace Corps Volunteer host was kind enough to help us with that. He saved us fines when we left the country. Of course, even in the 90s, if one stayed in a hotel, the hotel would do the police registration. So, I guess if we had stayed in a commercial place, we would have been spared the police experience. I’m not so sure they still do that, anyway.
In any case, I was eager to get out and see the city on Saturday… and we sure did that. Stay tuned for the next part!
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