East Germany, Eastern Europe

Our Eastern European October… part twelve

Our first full day in Dresden happened to be on a Sunday. If you know anything about Germany on Sunday, you know that most shops are typically closed that day. I wanted to get some writing done, so I told Bill to go take a walk after we had breakfast in the Moritz restaurant. I remember when we visited Hotel Suitess in 2008, the restaurant was called Maurice, and we had no money to try it for dinner. We only ate one breakfast there, and it was delightful because of the Eggs Benedict.

This year, we ate breakfast at the hotel each day. I got a kick out of the very German sign directing people how to access the buffet. I’ve never seen a sign like this before in a hotel… but it strikes me as something Germans would do. They also posted a sign by the elevator on the ground floor, advising people of when they should try to have breakfast. On another note, I loved the cake on the plate below. It seemed kind of Black Forest inspired.

I sat down at my computer to write, while Bill walked around in Dresden. He found a Biergarten and a guy who was selling prints of Dresden and, while I was writing, sent a photo. I was glad to see the Biergarten, especially since it was in a prime spot for gazing at Dresden’s amazing architecture. When he got back from his walk, we headed over there. It required crossing a bridge, which gave me more chances for great photos.

We were having a great time drinking beer and people watching when the first raindrops fell. We quickly finished our beers and made a run for shelter. It was quicker to keep going across the bridge to the other side of Dresden. I was kind of glad we did that, since I don’t think we ever ventured to that part during our first visit. Bill said he’d seen a brewpub on the other side, not too far from the bridge. As luck would have it, it was about time for lunch, anyway.

As we were heading across the bridge, the rain turned into sleet and hail. This is a pretty common thing in Germany, especially during the spring and fall seasons. I was grateful I wore a sweater, as we rushed towards the brewpub called Watzke. I see it has several locations. We were at the one near the Golden Rider. I got several good shots of it, once we were seated, and slowly drying off.

Maybe it seems like all we did was eat and drink on this trip, but we definitely got our heart rates up in our attempts to avoid the rain and sleet! And I was rewarded with good beer and some great chicken and fries. Bill had sausage with mushrooms and mashed potatoes. This restaurant seemed very popular with the locals. I didn’t notice a lot of Americans in Dresden, anyway, but this location of Watzke had mostly Germans in it, having a nice Sunday brunch.

We enjoyed a very leisurely lunch, and I took a few photos of the “golden rider” statue from our table. It’s amazing what playing with the camera settings will do. Same camera, different modes… The bottom two were taken as we were headed back across the bridge. Dresden has lots of gold statutes. I couldn’t help but think of Trump when I saw them. 🤮

The Golden Rider statue commemorates Augustus the Strong (1670-1733). The statue was erected in 1736, in Baroque style, based on a design by the scultpor Jean Joseph Vinache. It’s very impressive… or gaudy, depending on your view.

On our way back, we stopped to tip a few buskers who were offering some ambiance. I also noticed some rather telling graffiti, which implored the government to put hospitals and healthcare back in public hands.

The newly sunny weather gave me a chance to take some more photos of Dresden’s beautiful architecture and the Elbe River… It’s amazing how quickly the weather can change! Especially at this time of year!

After some more walking around, we decided to have a rest at the hotel. Our vacation was definitely winding down, and we were thinking about going home. We did venture out again for dinner, though, at a restaurant called 1328. It was located just across the street from Hotel Suitess, and was clearly affiliated with the large Augustiner Brauhaus next door to the hotel.

We weren’t really all that hungry, but were mainly killing time. Still, I was glad we stopped in at 1328, as the food and service were very good. And we also had an interesting conversation with our dirndl clad server, a petite young lady from Asia. I didn’t ask which Asian country from which she came, although I noticed that several of her co-workers were also Asian. This matters, only because she asked us where we were from, and we ended up having a conversation about what it’s like to be foreign in Germany.

Bill and I often get mistaken for German. We blend right in here, until we start to speak. Our server was obviously not from Germany, and I got the sense that maybe she found it a bit lonely living here. She seemed very young, but obviously had accomplished a lot. I know she could speak at least three languages, for instance.

In any case, 1328 was a good find, because the food and service were good, but it also wasn’t crowded at all. I especially enjoyed my Wolfbarsch (sea bass) filet with risotto and tomato caponata. Bill had zander filet with root vegetables, fried potatoes, and a honey-mustard sauce. We also had a lovely bottle of wine. For dessert, I had three chocolates. Bill had pistachio creme brûlée.

After dinner, we headed back to our hotel room and prepared for bed. It was nice to be in Dresden again, if only to see some familiar sights and enjoy the atmosphere.

Tomorrow, I will write about our last full day of vacation, and our last day in Dresden.

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Sundays

Impromptu lunch at Lucullus, in lovely Königstein…

Since we’re down to one dog, and he does pretty well on his own, Bill and I decided to go out to lunch yesterday. We were going to try a place I’ve been curious about since we first moved up to Wiesbaden in late 2018, Ristorante Fischbachtal. That restaurant, which doesn’t take a midday pause, is always busy, though, and though it has its own parking lot, the lot looks a bit like a half maintained field. So it was yesterday, when Bill turned in and was immediately confronted by cars trying to go in and out with no sense of decorum.

I said to Bill, “Let’s find somewhere else to go.” It was getting close to 2:00 pm, though, and that’s when the midday pause starts to happen. I consulted with my phone and got on the OpenTable app, where I discovered that Lucullus in Königstein had plenty of availability and doesn’t take a pause on Sundays. We should have made a reservation, since that would have given us some “points” on OpenTable, but we were really close to the restaurant and it seemed silly to reserve fifteen minutes in advance.

Bill and I last visited Königstein in June 2020, during the height of the COVID pandemic nightmare. In fact, we went to Lucullus for my birthday lunch, because we were staying at a nearby hotel connected to a mineraltherme. Yes, it was only about 20 minutes from our home in Breckenheim, but we wanted to get away for the celebration, and at the time, travel was difficult. I remembered how cute Königstein was when we went there in 2020. Now, I think we should go there a lot more often. Not only do they have the fabulous Lucullus restaurant, which offers wonderful food and wine served with a smile, but is also just a really pleasant little town.

In yesterday’s post, I mentioned that we saw a Braille model reconstruction of Wiesbaden on Saturday. It was the first time we’d ever noticed it. Sure enough, there’s one in Königstein, too. My friend, Susanne, says that these bronze city models are spread all over the place, not unlike the Stolpersteine (stumbling stones) that commemorate people who were lost or displaced during the Holocaust. I had never noticed them before spotting them in Breckenheim one day in 2019. Now, I’ve seen them all over, and not just in Germany.

I’ll have to keep my eyes peeled for more of these…

We arrived at Lucullus at about 2:30, and were warmly welcomed by the staff. They asked if we had reservations, but none were needed. There were only a few people there, and they were mostly having drinks near the bar. Lucullus has a big terrace area, which is where we sat in 2020 (mainly because it was required). Yesterday, we got the chance to sit in the dining room, which I really enjoyed. The walls were lined with many bottles of wine and books… two of my favorite things!

We took a seat by the window and the sommelier came over and asked us if we wanted an aperitif. I said that I really wanted some red wine. Bill and the wine steward chose a beautiful bottle of Primitivo, that went very well with our sumptuous lunch. Feast your eyes…. 😉

We decided to go “all out” and each had three courses. I started with a “taco”– made with a fresh salad, topped with crispy duck, and drizzled with a passion fruit dressing and garnished with perfect avocados and tomatoes. I loved the duck. It was probably my favorite part of the meal. I don’t usually get excited over salads, but I loved the dressing, and it went perfectly with the duck.

Bill enjoyed his Parmesan “brulee”, which looked a bit like a dessert creme brulee, only it was savory and topped with winter truffles. I might have enjoyed trying it, except I don’t like fungus at all. I should mention that the restaurant itself smelled a bit like truffles. I guess it’s the season. 😉

As the meal continued at a leisurely pace, we talked and enjoyed each other’s company, not worried about Noyzi, who has proven himself to be very good at home when he’s alone. We miss Arran a lot, but he was not always so good when we needed to go out somewhere. He was a typical hound, who missed his pack very much. Noyzi is a lot more independent.

I chose dorade, which was one of the daily specials, for the main course, mostly because a lot of what was offered had mushrooms or truffles, or was something I could get anywhere. Lucullus doesn’t offer things like pizza or a lot of pasta dishes, but they did have spaghetti carbonara. Bill went with lamb, which is another dish I probably wouldn’t enjoy anywhere. He really enjoyed the lamb, which was topped with zucchini and paired with potatoe pralines filled with candied tomatoes. My dorade came with a perfectly cooked medley of spring vegetables– carrots, zucchini, cauliflower, and broccoli, and topped with olives and tomatoes.

We couldn’t leave without dessert. Bill had warm baklava topped with yogurt ice cream. I had a “lava cake” with vanilla ice cream and cookie crumbles. I don’t actually like ordering lava cakes. I do enjoy them, but they’re done everywhere now. I would love to go somewhere and have a nice slice of layered cake, instead of the half-baked flourless chocolate creation. Next time we go there, I’ll have to make a point of branching out. 😀

The bill came to about 205 euros, which is a lot of money. But we were done eating for the day, and it’s been so long since we last enjoyed a really beautiful lunch. We got great service from our server, who spoke English and welcomed us back again, next time we’re in town. We truly enjoyed our visit to Lucullus yesterday as much as we did in 2020. We must visit again, if only to look around the town and perhaps visit the imposing castle ruins in the distance.

Königstein is cute!

One other thing. They were playing dance music in the dining room. I don’t usually enjoy dance music much, as I’m not a dancer… but the kind they were playing was tasteful and interesting. And, once again, we were reminded of Arran. I mentioned that on the day we lost him, we heard the song “Shiny, Happy People” by R.E.M. twice. Yesterday, as we were finishing up, we heard “Losing My Religion”, though it was not done by R.E.M., but was a cover version by Mark Coles & Menno. “Losing My Religion” was, of course, from the same album that brought us “Shiny, Happy People”– Out of Time. Crazy, huh? I had no idea so many people had covered that song, either.

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