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Celebrating 14 years in Ireland! Part ten

Because the weather turned tumultuous, we decided to stay in yesterday and simply watch the sea.  At one point, Bill went out to the grocery store to pick up more supplies– toilet paper, eggs, bacon, and some laundry detergent.  The cottage has a washer and dryer, so we were able to do a load of laundry.

I watched a little Irish TV and found a channel called Forces, which was airing military themed shows.  I was a bit surprised when Hogan’s Heroes came on.  That show aired before I was born and I never got into the reruns.  I have to admit, it was a bit weird to see it yesterday in Ireland, especially since the premise of the show seemed so ridiculous.  It reminded me of a war themed Gilligan’s Island.

For those who don’t know, Hogan’s Heroes is basically about a bunch of allied forces who were being held in a German prisoner of war camp during World War II.  The Germans in charge were portrayed as buffoons and the “prisoners” easily got around all of the trappings of prison life.  Basically, they were running an underground operation to help Americans at other bases fight the Nazis.

After a couple of episodes of Hogan’s Heroes, I turned off the TV… but not before running across a channel where women were being really boring.  I couldn’t help but notice that a lot of what I was seeing was actually British television, which reminded me too much of American TV minus Dr. Phil.

Bill and I spent most of the day sitting around, enjoying each other’s company, listening to music, and watching the waves.  I gave some thought to getting dressed and visiting the pub next door, but decided against it when I got a load of the weather.

I’m not sure what we’ll do today.  It’s our last full day in the Sligo area, but it’s cold and stormy this morning.  We even had a little bit of snow last night.  It may be just another leisurely day for us, by the wood stove fire as we watch the surf.  It changes so much by the minute it’s a show in and of itself.

If there’s one thing I do know, it’s that we’ll have to come back to Ireland again… perhaps at a time of year when there’s more sunlight and warm breezes.  Here are photos I captured during our lazy day.

There was a little snow last night.

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Celebrating 14 years in Ireland! Part eight

Aughris!

Bill called our hostess, Helen, who was going to come over and show us how everything in the house works.  Our rental house is called The Water’s Edge, and it definitely is at the water’s edge!  While we were waiting, I noticed that she left us two bottles of wine and Lindor Swiss chocolate truffles.  I also noticed all the signs on the walls, no doubt inspired by previous guests who either didn’t clean up after themselves or stole from the cottage.  What a shame.

A nice welcome surprise!

The master bedroom.

Living room.

Kitchen/dining area.  There’s a nice wood stove.

Guest room we aren’t using.

Bathroom we aren’t really using.

Another guest room we aren’t using.  Has a twin sized bed.  All of this for just 440 euros through Booking.com (or 400 euros a week directly).  

Helen turned out to be a very friendly and funny lady.  She showed us how to use the wood stove and the coin operated power meter, as well as the electric showers.  I got a laugh when she showed us the power meter, which runs on two euro coins.  She said she didn’t know how long two euros lasts.  We got here Monday and so far, we still have power.  When it inevitably goes out, we will deposit another two euros.  Weird.

Coin operated meter!

After Helen left, Bill and I had a little late lunch/dinner procured from the supermarket.  Then we walked to The Beach Bar, which is a cute little pub located just steps away from the cottage.  Because it’s November, the Beach Bar only serves food on weekends.  After next weekend, they will be closed for about six months as they renovate.  I’m glad we had the chance to stop in for beer and whiskey.  It’s a very cute little place, complete with cheeky signs on the walls, pictures of past events, and a nice fireplace.

Beach Bar!

Cute inside!

 

Yet another Guinness.

In the summer, this bar is supposedly packed!  A lot of people come to Aughris to surf.

A little Irish whiskey.  Bill finished off the bottle for them.  There was just enough for a taste, so they didn’t charge us.

 

I had a full measure of another whiskey.

 

At one point, Bill asked about poitin.  He was surprised by the bartender’s reaction, which seemed a bit abrupt.  Apparently, poitin isn’t all that widely available.  Or maybe it’s illegal?  Based on the barkeep’s reaction, it seemed like a taboo topic.  But then Bill overheard the old guy at the bar say something about the bartender chipping in on a still.  Who knows?

The bar closes at 8:00pm, so Bill and I decided to make an early evening of it.  We got back to our cottage at about 5:00pm and listened to music and the crashing waves of the ocean.  We gazed at the super moon, which showed up pretty well.  I think we were dead to the world by 9:00pm.

Super moon in super Ireland!

Yesterday morning, we had more sunshine, so we took some photos of the beach at low tide.  Then we decided to drive to Donegal, since we’re pretty sure that might have been where Bill’s people came from before they were Americans.  It turned out Donegal Castle was closed, but that was no big deal.  Castles aren’t that exciting to me, anyway.

We parked the car and walked into the town, where I immediately spotted The Irish House, which was full of sweaters, tweed, hats and scarves.  We ran into a nicely turned out local lady, who helped us select a Donegal tweed jacket for Bill and a big blue sweater for me.  She noticed and admired my Bean boots, which I explained were great for keeping my feet warm and dry.  I first started wearing Bean Boots when I used to show horses.  They’re great for wearing in a barn, especially when you have to clean stalls.

All in all, we dropped about $400 there.  They even threw in a free wool scarf.  I’m glad Bill has a new jacket.  I’m always trying to expand his wardrobe.

Naturally, talk turned to Donald Trump… as it inevitably has everywhere we’ve gone on this trip.  It’s been interesting to hear Irish impressions of our president elect.  The saleslady noted that Mr. Trump always has beautiful women with him.  She also said he hires women.  I said that was fine, as long as he didn’t grab any of them by the pussy.

In Donegal.

At the Reel Inn!

Next time we come to Ireland, we’ll need to stay a night or two in Donegal!

And… since I am a bit Scottish, we will have to visit The Reel Inn’s local competitor.

We ate lunch at this restaurant…  I will write about it in part nine!

After we purchased our new duds, we went to an Irish pub the saleslady recommended called The Reel Inn.  She said it was the best place for a Guinness, since the pipe to the keg was “short”.  I’m not sure I know what she was talking about, but The Reel Inn did appear to be a very popular place for live music.  I wished we were staying in Donegal because I have been itching to hear some live music and maybe join in myself.

The Reel Inn is a small place that originally celebrated its 10th birthday.  The barman was working alone, though he was soon joined by an older man looking resplendent in tweed.  I can’t be sure, but I think they were speaking Irish.  They appeared to be old friends and I couldn’t understand a word they were saying.

Expert advice…

After a beer somewhat awkwardly enjoyed in The Reel Inn, we moved on to looking for lunch.  More on that in the next post.

 

More shots of Aughris…

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Celebrating 14 years in Ireland! Part seven

We were literally lodged next to Europe’s Facebook Headquarters!

After our Guinness Storehouse experience, we found a cab right outside.  The driver had “Bullet In The Blue Sky” playing on the stereo.

“U2!” I said.  “How appropriate!”

“What is this song called?” Bill asked.

“Bullet In The Blue Sky.” I said.  “I think it came out around 1987.”

“It’s not from 1984?” Bill asked.

“No, U2’s 1984 album was The Unforgettable Fire.  I feel pretty certain this song wasn’t on that album.” I answered.

“The song was recorded in 1986.” the cab driver said.  “And it was released in 1987.”

“Ha!  I was right!” I cheered.  “I can’t ever forget The Joshua Tree because I was 15 years old and taking a journalism class when it was released.  One of the girls in my class was a big U2 fan and went to Hampton, Virginia to see them perform while they were on tour that year.  She ended up meeting Bono and he signed her white turtleneck.  And she also ‘locked’ her class ring.  She wrote a big article about the experience in our school newspaper.”

“I was in Germany the first time.” Bill said.  “23 years old.”

“Holy shit, you’re old, mate!” the cab driver said.  It turned out he was 46 years old and hailed from Liverpool, England.  He’d come to Ireland to golf and fell in love with a local.  They are now married and have several kids, the youngest of which is six years old.  The driver then told us a story about how the six year old had woken him up that morning by climbing on his face.

The driver went on to tell us about how much Dublin has changed since Bill first visited, back in 1984.  He pointed out an old bar that used to be full of guys who worked in the Docklands area of the city.  He took an old friend to the area, trying to find the bar.  They walked into it and asked where the bar was located.  No one confirmed that they had reached the right place.  I seem to remember there was some talk of the IRA, too.

We left the cabbie and then decided to look for dinner.  Unfortunately, there wasn’t a great selection of restaurants near The Marker Hotel.  We ended up going into the restaurant at the nearby Clayton Hotel– it was called Vertigo.  From the very start, that was an annoying experience.  They were playing horrible generic dance music in the dining room.  Also, we weren’t aware that in order to be served, you had to go up to the bar.  There was no sign alerting us to that fact.  So we sat for awhile before another customer clued us in to what we needed to do.  Bill was starting to have flashbacks to our very bad experience at the Esquire Bar in San Antonio.

Carlsberg is a thirst quencher, but not that inspiring.

Bill ordered a chicken and avocado burger.  I had a cheeseburger.  It took a very long time for the sandwiches to get to us, plus we were drinking Carlsberg beers, which aren’t all that interesting.  Add in the terrible music and the fact that all we really wanted to do was eat and hit the sack, and you have a couple of crotchety middle aged folks.  First world problems, right?

Disappointing burger…

 

Mr. Bill’s chicken sandwich.  It could have been better.

Neither of the burgers were particularly good, either.  Bill said his was okay, although it had little avocado on it.  My burger was overcooked and not very hot.  I finished less than half before we decided to cash in our chips for the evening.  We have a reservation at a Clayton Hotel the night before we fly back to Germany.  Hopefully, it will leave a better impression than the one in downtown Dublin.

On the way back to the hotel, I noticed the European Facebook headquarters, located directly next to our hotel.  I had to take a few photos.  It looks like an interesting place to work, based on the big posters with provocative slogans on them in the foyer.

Several of the signs I noticed from outside Facebook’s headquarters in Ireland.

Monday morning, we got up and had our breakfast.  After that, we checked out of the hotel and got a cab to the car rental office where Bill had arranged to pick up a vehicle for our three hour trip to Sligo.  After a few tense early moments, Bill got the hang of driving on the left again, having done it for the first time back in March of this year when we were in Scotland and England.  Aside from drifting too far off the side of the narrow roads and some momentary confusion, he’s done a great job driving.

I tried to snag a couple more Dublin shots from the car.

We stopped at a grocery store in Ballysadare and picked up some essentials for our five nights at the beach cottage.  We were going to have lunch, but it looked like everything in the little village, except for the cafe in the grocery store, was boarded up tight.  Lots of young folks who obviously attend the local Catholic school were walking around the town in their uniforms.  I actually found myself admiring the uniforms.  As a youngster, I didn’t like the idea of being forced to wear the same thing as everyone else did.  However, as a middle aged woman, I don’t think school uniforms are a bad idea.  And I even liked the classic look the kids were sporting.

In Ballysadare, apparently being versatile is the key to economic success.

The construction stoplights in Ireland have timers on them, letting you know how long you have to wait.  Bill and I both like that.  There is a lot of construction going on here, which is a good thing.  The roads are narrow and very well used.

After we shopped, we finished our drive to Aughris Head, which is where our beach cottage rental is located.  When we arrived in the mid afternoon, Bill found the keys to the house.  The ads didn’t lie.  It’s literally right next to the Atlantic Ocean.  As I type this, I hear waves crashing dramatically on the rocky coastline.  It’s very peaceful.  Adding to the appeal is the fact that there is a bar located within walking distance of our little house.

More on Aughris in part eight!

First impressions…  I picked another winner.

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Celebrating 14 years in Ireland! Part five

Bill and I were still laughing about the boys on the train as we walked into Kilkenny, a town that appears to have recently exploded in population.  I was reminded of towns like Chapel Hill, North Carolina, which was once a rural place and eventually became very popular.  Kilkenny appeared to be  the kind of place that was very small for a very long time and then became busy.  As we headed for the the Smithwick’s Experience, I was surprised by how many people were there, trying to get around us and/or otherwise in a rush.  On the way to the beer museum, we decided to stop for lunch.  We ended up at a place called Petronella, which I spotted as we were passing an alcove.

One of my favorite bits of travel advice is to pay attention to alcoves.  It’s easy to find stuff if you’re on a main drag.  But I have found the best places are often tucked away, and Petronella turned out to be one of those places.  It was a bit of a hole in a wall, tucked away off the main road.  We arrived just in time for lunch.  Indeed, I think we were the first customers of the day.

Bill checks out the menu.

 

Kilkenny beer.

The first version of my lunch.  I tried to make it work by switching with Bill.

Our waitress directed us to the second floor and I took a seat by the window.  Right as I was noticing the piped in music on the sound system– mostly music from the 70s and 80s– a busker was warming up outside.  The busker was quite a talented guy who played guitar and sang, sounding a bit like Bob Dylan if Bob Dylan could actually sing (and this is no disrespect to Mr. Dylan’s overall talents as a musician.  He writes wonderful songs and plays guitar, but he is not a singer).

So, we came in and sat down… and I ordered a steak sandwich and Bill ordered the special of the day, which was a chili flavored tagliatelle.  I ordered a Kilkenny beer to go with my lunch, while Bill had a glass of cabernet.

The food came… and unfortunately, my steak sandwich, which was served open faced with fries and a fried egg on top, also came with mushrooms and onions.  No problem, Bill and I thought… We switched plates and I tried his dish…  It, too, was loaded with mushrooms.  So the waitress came up and I had to tell yet another person about my ridiculous mushroom hatred/phobia.

Bill called her over and said, “My wife can’t eat mushrooms.”

Bill’s lunch.  I tried to eat that instead, but the mushrooms were awful.  Otherwise, this was almost like a really nice chili mac.  It was quite good and I would have loved it minus the fungus.  

 

Rebooted steak sandwich.  The potato salad was surprisingly good.

The waitress was wonderful.  She quickly took the food away and had the chef make me another sandwich without ‘shrooms.  She brought me a clean sandwich sans egg, onions, and mushrooms.  Instead, it came with a surprisingly good potato salad.  I got to tell the waitress about why I hate mushrooms so much.  To make a long story short, I have a bit of a phobia.  Even as I told her how I knew how ridiculous this story sounded, she was patient and understanding.  And she also confessed feeling the same way about baked beans.  I like to think she appreciated that I told the truth, rather than tried to tell her I’m allergic.  The truth is, I am not allergic to mushrooms.  They just really freak me out in a bad way.

At one point, the piped in music was a song by Bruce Springsteen circa 1985.  The busker outside was playing a 90s Springsteen song.  Synchronicity!  (truthfully, it was a bit weird)

Petronella… in case you ever find yourself in Kilkenny.

After we had lunch, Bill and I went to the Smithwick’s Experience, which was very entertaining from the get go.  We entered the beer museum and were immediately greeted by a good hearted lady who said we could use the kiosks to pick up our tickets or just talk to her.  She immediately recognized my name, since I had just ordered tickets and got engraved glasses in honor of our anniversary.  The lady who did the engraving personally wrapped our glasses for us and wished us a good time in Ireland.

At 2:00, we had our tour, along with several other folks.  There were a couple of Irish folks on the tour, but the majority of us were Americans.  An adorable lady named Ide (pronounced Eee-dah) guided us through the museum, gave us the long history of the brewery, explained the process of beer making (which Bill and I know very well), and led our tasting.  Bill and I had a paddle tasting, which included several beers by Smithwick’s.  We ended up chatting with a couple from Ireland who were really friendly and wanted to talk about politics!

After the tour, we walked around the town, then headed to a bar.  We had to kill some time before our train, due to leave at around 7:00pm.  The first bar we went to seemed geared toward hen parties.  There were a couple of groups of younger women who were cackling over brews.  I finally got annoyed enough to tell Bill we needed to move on to the next place, a pub affiliated with a hotel.

We stopped into the pub, which had the soccer game between Austria and Ireland playing.  We sat down and started drinking local brews.  A bald guy working the bar came over to talk to us.  He was obviously a local and very cool.  After a couple of hours, I think we became friends.  And yes… there was more talk about Donald Trump.

Shots of Smithwick’s, which has a surprisingly long and interesting history in Kilkenny.  This tour was absolutely worth doing.  It was very personal and informative.

Shots of Kilkenny…

He told us to come back if we ever made it back to Kilkenny.  Somehow, I have the feeling he’ll still be there if we ever do make it back to Kilkenny.  He might even remember us!

We got to the train station about fifteen minutes before we left Kilkenny for Dublin.  More on that in part six.
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Celebrating 14 years in Ireland! Part four

We woke up bright and early Saturday morning for our trip to Kilkenny.  Bill ordered a cab for 9:00am after we were told it would take at least an hour to walk to the train station from our hotel.  The cab driver arrived right on time.

A map of Ireland.

While we were in the taxi, I found myself listening to the talk show on the radio.  My ears pricked up when I heard the female commentator refer to the United States as the “United Hates of America”.  She said she didn’t see America that way, but other people did.

“The United ‘Hates’ of America, huh?” I responded.  “Wow.”

The cab driver chuckled and, naturally, that opened up yet another conversation about politics.  He gave us his impressions of our elections and we explained to him that Mrs. Clinton and Mr. Trump were not the only candidates.  They were simply the only ones most people heard much about, especially outside of the country.  Bill then explained that we live in Germany, so we’re somewhat removed from a lot of the political maelstrom that has been going on for over a year now.

We arrived at the train station a bit early, so after Bill bought us a couple of tickets, we went into a bar for a round of beer.  Yes, it was 9:30am, but I decided I wanted a beer.  We were turned away from the “outdoor” area of the bar, but inside, there were several old guys congregated.  They were all sipping Guinness, so we joined them and enjoyed the 80s music playing on the stereo.

A new book by Jodi Piccoult.

While we were sitting there in the bar, Bill told me about the funny sign at the ticket counter that read something to the effect of “Antisocial behavior will not be tolerated!  You will be caught and prosecuted!”  Little did I know, our social skills would be tested on our ride to Kilkenny.

Cute Hoor beer…
 
And the first of several Guinness beers I’ve had since our arrival…

At 10:15am, we got on our train.  It was pretty packed with people.  We were at a four top table, so we were later joined by a funky looking lady who was very intent on reading a tabloid.  We thought we would have a nice sedate ride to Kilkenny and we did…  until we stopped at Kildare.

The train stopped and a bunch of people got on…  and most of them were of the youngster set.  I heard lots of high pitched chattering as laughter as we were suddenly joined by a group of about twenty or thirty kids.  I didn’t count them; I only noticed as they made their way down the train, looking for spare seats together.  They looked like they were on the brink of adolescence– maybe ten or eleven years old.

“Urchins…” I muttered.

One kid got on the train with a backpack and a large foam rubber mat.  It was rather wide and he seemed oblivious as it smacked a few passengers he tried to pass.  A motherly looking group leader advised the lad to unhook the mat and carry it in front of him.  It seemed to take a couple of minutes before he finally got it and carried the thing in a less offensive way.

A few minutes later, the boy with the foam mat was back, along with a couple of his friends and a group leader.  The group leader very apologetically seated the boys at the four top table opposite the aisle from Bill and me.  A young man was already sitting by the window, blissfully tuned out of the action because he had ear buds planted firmly in his ears.

The overhead baggage area over the boys’ seats was full, so after prompting from yours truly, Bill very helpfully offered to put the foam mat over our seats.  This kindness opened up yet another hilarious exchange with the Irish.  You see, these boys were not the type to be quiet and shy.  I don’t actually know the boys’ names, but I’ll give them nicknames for the sake of this story.

“Where are you from?” asked the foam mat bearer– I’ll call him Seamus for simplicity’s sake.

“America.” Bill said.

“America!” another boy exclaimed– I’ll call him Lefty due to his broken hand in a cast.  “What the hell are you doing in Ireland?”

“We’re here on vacation.” Bill said.

“You can’t be here on vacation!” another kid I’ll call Ray said.  “Nobody vacations here!  Ireland is awful!”

Naturally, this unabashed comment made everyone in the vicinity crack up with laughter.

One of the boys pulled out a plastic bottle of some kind of juice.  The three of them then commenced flipping the bottle, trying to get it to land right side up.  I am told this is a game that is “all the rage” among youngsters these days, but it was the first time I’d ever seen it.  I eyed the bottle nervously, fearing that it would either break or the top would come off, making a big mess.  At one point, the bottle landed upright and the kid I call Ray started yelling “Drink! Drink! Drink!” like he was at a frat party.  My eyes widened in surprise, but perhaps I shouldn’t have been.

“So do you like Ireland?” Ray asked during a lull in the gameplay.

“Oh yes!” Bill said.

“How many states have you been to?” Lefty asked, moving on to the fact that we were Americans and apparently totally foreign to them.

“48.” Bill said.  “I have not been to Alaska and North Dakota.”

“48 states!” the boys exclaimed.  “Wow!”  They were extremely impressed that Bill had seen so many states.  When another from their group sat nearby, they eagerly told their friend about Bill’s U.S. travels.

“What state are you from?” one of the kids asked.

Bill told them he was from Texas.  I told them I’m from Virginia.  The kids continued peppering Bill with questions.  Eventually, they asked which country he’d been to that was furthest away.  For some reason, Bill said “Iraq”, although he has since been to a few African countries that are even further away from where we’ve ever lived.

Recognizing that Bill had been in the Army, the kids moved on to subject of the war.  “Did you know anyone that died?” one of the kids asked.

“Yes.” Bill said.  Thankfully, they moved on from that line of questioning… only to start talking about politics!

“Hey!  Do you think of Canada as your ‘goody two shoes neighbor to the north’?” Seamus asked, just in time for one of the roving group adults to hear him.  I gasped in surprise just as one of the group moms came over and grabbed Seamus for a talking to.  While she was chewing out Seamus, she shot Lefty what appeared to be a ‘death ray’.

“I’m so sorry,” the group mom apologized as she returned Seamus to his seat.

“Really, it’s not a problem.” I said as I laughed.  These kids were cracking me up and making the time go much faster.  I probably shouldn’t have encouraged them, but I have to admit to being similarly obnoxious… especially when I was their age.

“Oh no.” Lefty said suddenly.  “Here comes Dermott.”

Dermott was apparently the head leader of this group and he gave the impression of brooking no nonsense.  He was heading down the aisle toward the boys.

“He wears a Titanium vest!” Ray shouted.  “And if you don’t get on with him, he’ll send the IRA after you!”

“Oh my God…” I muttered to Bill, who was having a hard time containing his laughter.

“What does D.C. stand for?” Lefty asked.

“District of Columbia.” I responded.

“Isn’t Colombia a country in Africa?” one kid asked.

“No, that’s a country in South America.” Bill said.

“Isn’t it a city in Ohio?” Lefty asked.

“No, you’re thinking of Columbus.” I said.  “But good on you for being close, because a lot of people wouldn’t be.”

“We have to walk three miles to our campsite.” Lefty said.

“You’ll be alright if your rucksack is 20% of your body weight.” Bill offered.

“It’s too far.” the boys said as they flipped the bottle again.

“Hey!  Why don’t you have a go?” Lefty asked Bill as they passed him the bottle.  I shot Bill a warning look as he wisely gave the bottle back to the kids.

Finally, another stop came and a bunch of people got off the train.  One of the moms came back to our little group of comedians and told them to come with her to another part of the train.  They had found seats together.  The boys all groaned and got up to leave.  Seamus, who appeared to be the leader of the hooligans, came back because he’d forgotten his bottle.  Before he left, he said goodbye to Bill and me and gave us both a bro fist.

I have to admit, next to the train ride we took in Luxembourg with a bunch of nuns and a woman wearing Depends and a rubber phallus on her nose, that was one of the more entertaining train rides we’ve ever experienced.  It’s also not the first time Bill has become a de facto babysitter on a train.  For some reason, he attracts people in need.  Fortunately, he is great with kids and as kind and gentle as a man can be.  More on that in part five!

Ads in the train station.  I thought they were very clever!
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Celebrating 14 years in Ireland! Part three

The first taxi in line at the airport made an immediate impression.  On the back window of the cab, there was a Confederate flag.  Next to it, there was a X-wing Fighter Squadron sign.  Not being a fan of Star Wars, I didn’t notice the other sign.  Likewise, Bill didn’t notice the flag, but did see the Star Wars reference.

I posted about seeing the Confederate battle flag on Facebook and quite a few of my American friends were shocked and dismayed.  However, I get the impression that Europeans who admire that flag don’t associate it with racism the way many Americans do.  I have seen that flag displayed in other European countries.  In fact, last year I saw it prominently displayed at an Italian rest stop.  One of my friends, who is himself Italian, explained that some Europeans see the flag as more of a symbol of rebellion than racism.  A Swedish friend agreed.

Along with having interesting decorations on his taxi, our cab driver turned out to be quite a good reader of people.  After welcoming us to Ireland, he quickly realized Bill had been in the military and said, “Happy Veteran’s Day.”  Then he and Bill had an entertaining discussion about the Irish military versus the U.S. military.  The cabbie served three years in the Irish Army and said he’d hated it, although he claimed to be fascinated by all things military.

When Bill started talking, the cab driver pegged Bill as a retired Master Sergeant and was shocked when Bill told him he’d retired as a Lieutenant Colonel.  The driver explained that in the Irish military, there’s a huge, discernible difference between officers and enlisted personnel and it all comes from how they carry themselves.  Apparently, in Ireland, officers are snobs.  Or so he told us, anyway.  It was an eye opener to hear the cab driver’s impressions of American military members, though on the whole, he did seem to be pretty positive.

Naturally, the cab driver, along with many other people we’ve met so far, also had comments about our recent shocking election results.  I don’t remember everything he said, though, because by that point I was exhausted and had a terrible headache.  I do remember him talking about how very safe Dublin is and how much he loves his city, as well as his country.  It was nice to hear.

We soon reached the Marker Hotel, where a man in a top hat opened the cab door for me.  I hadn’t been expecting that level of service, so it took me off guard.  We checked into the hotel, where a smiling lady with an eastern European accent welcomed us and convinced us to upgrade our room to a deluxe.  I’m not sure it was worth the extra money to get the deluxe room, but we were tired and weak from travel.  We also got breakfast included, which at 21,50 euros a person was a bit ridiculous.  For those who are thinking about booking the Marker Hotel, I’ll just say that the buffet breakfast at the hotel is fine, but there is a nearby Starbuck’s if you want a less expensive option for breakfast.  As for the hotel, it offers an enormous buffet with hot and cold items, as well as raw honey of all things.  They actually have a honeycomb on the buffet!

Our deluxe room was nice enough with its view of a big theater and the Bank of Ireland.  It had a marble bathroom and a well appointed minibar, as well as a very comfortable bed and flatscreen TV.  WiFi was completely free and unfettered.  It was fast and reliable.

A few shots of the hotel room…


The bed was a sight for sore eyes!

Nice welcome from the hotel on the TV.

Dinner the first night.  It was just what I needed.

Part of the large breakfast spread.

This is a crappy photo, but it’s a picture of the honeycomb.  You can just take a piece and chew it.  Or you can take some of the raw honey from the bowl below it.  I tried some this morning and it was delicious.

We were too tired and I had too much of a headache to go searching for dinner, so we ordered room service.  While we ate ginger carrot soup, Irish soda bread, and brownies with ice cream, we watched a very interesting British television show about police officers.  I would say it was roughly akin to Cops.  I am fascinated by all things police related.  One thing I noticed was that it seemed like the police on the show were more civil than a lot of American cops seem to be.  But given how ready for bed I was, I didn’t take too much time to think about that too much.

After we ate, Bill and I crashed hard.  We had big plans for Saturday that involved a trip to Kilkenny, where we’d be visiting the Smithwick’s Experience, a tour I prebooked after buying tickets to the Guinness Experience in Dublin.  Kilkenny is about 90 minutes from Dublin by train and the trains to and from there don’t run constantly.  Consequently, we knew we needed to be at the train station in time to catch the 10:15 coach heading south.  That train ride, as well as the tour, turned out to be a lot more fun than we thought it would be.  More on that in part four!

The view from our room.

Bill enjoys the Irish Times.  It came with the room.  He said it was “hilarious”.

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Celebrating 14 years in Ireland! Part one

Bill and I are currently in Ireland, celebrating our 14th wedding anniversary.  This trip has been a long time coming, since Bill has Irish ancestry and last visited Ireland in 1984.  I think I visited Ireland when my father was stationed at Mildenhall Air Force Base in England, but if I did visit, I was much too young to remember it.  I’ve been wanting to see Ireland for a long time, especially since I also have a little Irish blood, though it got to me by way of Scotland (I assume, anyway, having examined genealogical research done by people in my family).

I’m not sure when we decided, once and for all, that this anniversary would be spent in Ireland.  Originally, I was thinking about a trip to Baden-Baden, of all places, because I love spas and Baden-Baden is chock full of them.  For all I know, I decided on Ireland after we bought tickets to the recent whisky/whiskey tasting we attended at The Auld Rogue in Vaihingen.  In any case, we’re here and it’s good.  I tried to make this trip as first class as possible.

Business class on Lufthansa and Swiss Air (as well as Austrian Airlines)

 

As is my habit when I start planning a trip, I turned to Expedia.com for the initial planning.  I do that mainly because on Expedia, I can see prices for multiple airlines at one time and pair them with hotels.  I know everybody has their favorite travel site.  I’ve tried and used Travelocity and I’ve looked at Kayak.com, too.  For some reason, I just happen to prefer Expedia.  I also have a lot of rewards points there that I’m saving for a big splurge sometime.

When Bill and I fly, we usually opt for economy class because it’s often difficult to justify the extra money it costs to fly business class.  For this particular trip, we ended up booking business class seats.  Although business class was a bit more expensive than economy class was, it wasn’t prohibitively so.  I also wanted to try business class so I could write about the experience.

We ended up paying about $840 for two business class tickets from Stuttgart to Dublin.  Our first leg took us from Stuttgart to Munich to Dublin on Lufthansa.  On the way back, we’ll fly Swiss Air to Zurich to Stuttgart.  We have a long layover in Zurich and I looked at possibly taking a train back to Stuttgart.  Unfortunately, I didn’t find one that would get us back home sooner than the plane would.  I guess I will get to write about Zurich’s airport and maybe Swiss Air’s business class lounge.

The Marker Hotel in Dublin 

 

The Marker Hotel is a very contemporary hotel located in the Docklands area of Dublin.  It’s located in the center of town, making it a good place from which to explore.  As it’s turned out, so far we haven’t explored much of Dublin yet, because I bought us tickets to the Smithwick’s Experience in Kilkenny.  Yesterday, we took a train to Kilkenny to use our tickets and that took up the whole day.  Today, we have plans to visit the Guinness brewery for a tour and a connoisseur beer tasting.  Hopefully, we’ll get to see some of Dublin today, because tomorrow, we’re headed to the west coast, where I’ve rented a cottage on the water for five nights.

Nectar of the gods?

The Water’s Edge in Aughris

That is the name of the cottage I’ve rented.  I found it through Booking.com.  It’s located in County Sligo.  I had originally wanted to find us a place in County Donegal, but was unable to find anything that really pulled at the heartstrings.  The Water’s Edge is located steps away from a well regarded beach bar and is literally right on the beach.  I look forward to seeing the area around there because it looks absolutely beautiful!  Best of all, the price was right.  Just 440 euros for five nights.  I haven’t seen the house yet, though, so we’ll see if it was really a bargain.

We will come back to Dublin on Saturday, November 19th and stay a night at the Clayton Hotel, which is right next to the Marker Hotel.  I didn’t know they were so close to each other when I booked.  I was simply looking for an airport hotel.  Now I know to check locations more carefully!  On November 20th, we will fly back to Germany.

Now that I’ve outlined our main plans for this trip, it’s time to write about what’s happened so far.  Stay tuned for part two.

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Irish cursing…

Today’s post is liable to be a bit raunchy, so if you have delicate sensibilities, I recommend skipping it.  On the other hand, if you like a little swearing, stick around.

Some readers may know that on Friday of this week, Bill and I will finally be making our way to Ireland.  This trip has been years in the making.  We’ve been trying to arrange a visit to Bill’s ancestral homeland for ages, but our plans always ended up being overcome by events.  For as long as I’ve known Bill, he’s told me about when he and his mom went to Ireland back in the 80s.  At that time, there was a terrible economic crisis going on.  Now Ireland is presumably in much better shape than it was the last time he went there.  We’re looking forward to having a great time celebrating our 14th anniversary and recovering from the election.

Although I do have some Irish ancestry, my people seem to have come more from Scotland, Germany, and England.  Bill, on the other hand, has an Irish surname and the map of Ireland on his face.  He’s also got some undeniably Irish traits like a kind disposition, a love of irreverence, and an appreciation for feistiness.

Yesterday, I came across a funny video about how to say “Kiss my ass!” in Irish.  Check this out.

Here it is in Gaelic.

 

Given our upcoming trip, it seemed especially appropriate yesterday to update my profile picture on Facebook, so I found myself an Irish themed picture…

I probably ought to get a baseball cap with this printed on it.

 

The Irish actually have a pretty good collection of curse words.  Because they mostly speak English in Ireland, I think many people forget that Ireland has a language all its own and it’s very colorful.  For example, if I had wanted to say “Fuck off!” in Gaelic, I certainly could have done so by learning how to say “Foc il leat.”  While most people who know me know I have a propensity for cussing when the mood strikes, I didn’t think it would be appropriate to change my Facebook avatar to something that says “Fuck off.”  The sentiment was there, though.

Seriously, this stuff is pretty interesting.

Maybe it would have been less offensive to say “Suas Do Chul!”, which in Gaelic means “Up yours!”  But it’s been many years since I said “Up yours!” in English, so why would I say it in Gaelic now?  Even if I wanted to speak Gaelic, though, I would have to contend with the many different dialects.  Bill’s people are mostly from County Donegal, where people speak Ulster Irish.  Ireland is not a big country, though, and even if you speak a certain dialect, you’ll probably still be widely understood.

I probably should just stick to swearing in English.  But I have to admit, it’s fun to be vulgar in a different language.  When I was learning Armenian, I made a point of learning how to cuss properly.  It came in handy during my two years living in Armenia.

I’m really looking forward to this trip and hope it goes off without a hitch.  Regardless of who wins the election, I have a pretty good idea that I’ll want to drown my sorrows.

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Our first trip to Daily Burger…

About a month ago, Bill and I heard about how good the burgers are at Daily Burger, a small restaurant near the Schwaben Galerie in Vaihingen.  Since we definitely like our burgers, we decided we needed to try it.  Today was the big day.

Outside of the restaurant.  I often get a kick out of trying German versions of “American” food.

The weather was pretty miserable today.  It was cold and rainy.  Daily Burger opens at 3:00pm on Sundays.  I figured it wouldn’t be that busy because it was the middle of the day.  I was mistaken.  The dining room at Daily Burger is very small and no frills and every seat inside was taken.  They have a tent heated by propane heaters and the gentleman ahead of us requested to sit out there with his daughter.  Bill and I decided to join them, since there was nowhere else to sit.  But first, we had to make an order.

Daily Burger has a small menu.  You can get a beef burger, a chicken burger, or a veggie burger.  They also offer chicken wings.  You have a choice of three buns: sesame, hell, or koerner.  Bill tried the koerner bun, while I had the sesame bun.  There are several available free toppings which include tomatoes, raw onions,  roasted onions or pickles.  You can also pay extra for an egg, cheese, bacon, rucola, an extra patty, or jalapeno peppers.  Mustard, ketchup, and mayonnaise are free, while barbecue sauce is extra.

Bill and I both got combos, which include pommes and a drink.  I had a Coke and Bill had a Mezzo Mix; they came in small bottles  The lady who helped us spoke perfect English and was efficient as she took our orders.  She handed us a beeper and we went outside to wait.

On a nicer day, it wouldn’t have been bad at all to sit in the tent.  The heater was somewhat effective in warming the space.  I could still see my breath, though, and my hands were freezing during the short wait for our order to be prepared.

Obligatory shot of Bill.

Nice tables outside.  I sat right under the heater.  Bill insisted.  On a nice day, this might even be preferable to the indoor seating, since it’s very no frills.  Today, it was very bitter cold.

My cheeseburger.  It had mustard, ketchup, pickles, and lettuce.  The patty was very thin and tasted like it might be beef and pork mixed.  It was piping hot when I got it and the bun tasted very fresh, like it had been made on the premises.  I really liked the bun.  The fries were also delicious, but there were a whole lot of them.  Bill and I each only managed half.  Next time, we’ll order one combo and a burger and share the fries.  I don’t mind having extras, though… they were really good.

Bill’s sandwich.  He had barbecue sauce, pickles, cheese, and lettuce.  His sandwich seemed bigger than mine.  Both had a lot of condiments on them, to the point at which they were pretty messy.  I could have used another napkin.

Total damage for this lunch was about eighteen euros.  We both liked the food well enough, though it was definitely not Five Guys.  Next time, I may try the chicken or the wings.  I think I might like that better than the burgers.

I was so chilled after eating outside that I decided we needed to visit The Auld Rogue for a pint and maybe a little nip of scotch.  After dropping off our leftover fries, we walked over there and came in just in time for some live music.  A group was playing Irish music.  The first thing I did when I got there, though, was to hit the ladies room because I didn’t see one at Daily Burger.  To be fair, I didn’t look for one in the crowded restaurant.  It was too awkward.

A young girl standing in the hallway was playing with a tablet and said something to me.  At first I didn’t hear her.  She repeated herself in German.  I didn’t understand and said so.  She asked me if I’d been crying!  No… I was just looking a little like a drowned rat with too much eyeliner and a strong urge to pee.

The view from our table.  Bill ordered us a round of Guinness…

Another obligatory shot of Bill right before he ordered me a large Ardbeg to help ward off the chill.

I had to have a shot of the Irish True flag.

 

The band was decent, though I think they could have used another singer.  One lady sang and wasn’t bad, but they seemed more into playing than singing.  I heard a few harmonies and one guy was a decent singer, but I couldn’t hear him as well over the jamming.  Never mind, though… it was entertaining.  I especially liked it when they sang “Always Look On The Bright Side of Life”.  I noticed a couple of Christy Moore songs, too.  Later, after the broke up, it became clear that they were Germans doing a pretty good job of playing Irish music.

We talked to the proprietor, Nick, about a trip to Ireland The Auld Rogue is planning for Memorial Day weekend.  That may be a trip I’ll have to do…  Nick said it would include some stops at distilleries and a craft beer festival…  A boozer like me is all over that.  We asked him to send us the info and we’ll see if we can make it happen.

I was surprisingly warm on the walk back to the car.  I suppose a couple of large drams of scotch will do that to a person.  We stopped at the commissary for a few necessary items, since Bill has to go away again soon.

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Potential vacation idea…

I must thank my German friend, Susanne, for inspiring today’s travel blog post.  She posted the following video in a Facebook group I run.

This video is basically about meditation, albeit expressed in a profane way…

After watching the video, I had a sudden flashback.  Several years ago, I read a very interesting book by John Parkin entitled F*ck It: The Ultimate Spiritual Way.  The book, which was published in 2008, was about learning to let go of petty bullshit and enjoy your life.  I remember being very amused by the book and intrigued when I read that the author, and his Italian wife, Gaia, run weeklong retreats in Italy (and occasionally shorter retreats in London or Ireland).  The retreat they owned when I read the book has apparently been sold.  Now they do weeklong seminars on the island of Stromboli and at a retreat in Urbino.

I had looked into this retreat a few years ago, when we were still stateside.  At the time, it didn’t seem feasible.  Now that we’re in Germany, it’s looking a lot more like Bill and I could do it if we wanted to.  Indeed, Bill and I both could stand to say “fuck it” more often, though I have less of a problem saying it than he does.

I see John and Gaia have a similar video…

 

As well as one starring their sons…

 

These retreats are pretty much for adults only.  The mornings include “fuck it” sessions, then after lunch, you’re free to do what you want…  That sounds like my kind of vacation, actually.  Left to my own devices, I tend to want to sit around and people watch.  It’s good when I do things that have some structure.

Looking at the seminar calendar, it appears that John and Gaia only have two retreats scheduled soon.  One is in London next weekend and the other is a long weekend in Ireland next month.  Since we are headed to Scotland in March, neither of these dates will work for us.  If we weren’t going to Scotland, the Ireland retreat might be a possibility.

Even if we don’t do a retreat, I am now intrigued by the Island of Stromboli, where cars are not allowed.  To get there, you go to Naples and catch a ferry.  Sounds like an ideal place to unplug.

It looks like my kind of place.

 

I usually hate January because it’s kind of a blah time of year.  You’re recovering from the holidays and the year is so new that you forget that it’s changed.  The weather generally sucks.  The only thing good about January and February are the odd long weekends.  As I watch the Fuck It videos, I feel inspired to make some plans.  I don’t know if we’ll get to do one of these retreats later in 2016.. but if we do, I have a feeling it could be a life changing experience for Bill and me.  Aside from that, I relish the idea of getting to tell people I’ve been on a “Fuck It” retreat.  It’s like permission to be profane.

For those who need an app…

Here’s a link to John C. Parkin’s classic book…  he’s also written a few others that I may have to check out.

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