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Lunch at Primo Ristorante X Vineria and fine food shopping in downtown Stuttgart…

This weekend, we decided to spend our Saturday afternoon in downtown Stuttgart.  There were several reasons why we opted for the city.  One was an annoying monthly visitor that necessitated proximity to a ladies room.  One was the high chance of thunderstorms that clearly struck while we were gone.  And one was the fact that my car needs new tires and one tire has a slow leak.  Bill’s car has squeaky brakes that need to be fixed.  We didn’t want to chance the Black Forest today.

I’m glad we went to Stuttgart, even though it’s a crowded, busy city.  I’ve kind of been wanting to go downtown for awhile.  Actually, I need a date night at a really nice restaurant, but that’s what my upcoming birthday is for… hint hint (not that I need to hint to Bill).  We parked the car in a big garage near our dentist’s downtown office and went searching for lunch.

On the way there, we passed these buskers.  One was playing accordion and the other was passionately playing violin with so much emotion that I got very verklempt.  I have a weakness for street musicians, especially when they’re good.  These two went straight to my heart.  Unfortunately, they weren’t selling any CDs.  Bill wasn’t the only one to slip them some euros.

This guy was also a skillful busker who was selling CDs, but panpipes don’t do it for me…  We passed another guy playing acoustic guitar and another playing flute.  I really enjoy talented musicians playing in city squares.

 

We headed off the main drag in Stuttgart and suddenly I noticed a heavenly aroma.  I have mentioned in this blog before that I typically trust my nose when I stop at a restaurant.  It smelled of garlic, grilled, fresh bread, and exotic spices.  That aroma, along with a lovely smile from a striking young woman led me to pick Primo Ristorante X Vineria.  We took a two top under the outdoor canopy and checked out the menu, which was helpfully offered in Italian, German, and English.

Bill poses for the camera after ordering glasses of white wine and our usual big bottle of Spruedel.  Our wine and water came with fresh bread, olive oil, and balsamic vinegar.  I had a glass of Lugana Ottella, while Bill had Pinot Bianco Moritz DOC.

 

I was sitting in a good spot for people watching.  I thought it was fun hanging out in the food court at AAFES and watching the people walk by.  This place was even more fascinating, as people from all walks of life and different countries passed, sometimes with a significant other or a child and sometimes with a four legged friend.  I was especially enjoying the fashion show.  I saw quite an array of fashion statements, including one woman who was wearing a t-shirt with pictures of hamburgers over her breasts.  I saw another well muscled man wearing a tank top bearing the 7Eleven logo and a pair of cut off jeans shorts.

Bill decided to have the Panzirotti, which was basically ravioli stuffed with cheese and porcini mushrooms.  I went with Tagliolini with scallops and a turmeric lime sauce.

Bill’s dish was extremely pungent.  Some might say it was fragrant.  If you like the smell of mushrooms, it probably smelled heavenly.  I don’t like the smell of mushrooms, but Bill loves everything about the cursed things.  He said this dish was delicious… just the right size and delightfully earthy.  I took his word for it. 

I much preferred my day glow colored scallops and pasta.  The scallops were slightly bitter, but the lime and turmeric sauce kind of set off the bitterness.  And again, this was just the right size.

 

Our waitress asked us where we’re from.  We explained that we’re Americans who live locally.  She seemed impressed by that news and wondered why we’d want to live in Germany.  She was genuinely surprised when we told her how long we’ve been here and that it was our second time.  She might have wondered why our German is so bad, too.  I noticed she spoke German and English like an expert.

Next, she told us she’s from Iraq and was waiting to get her German passport so she’ll be allowed to visit the United States.  She told us she hopes to visit within the next year.  I was very impressed by how warm, friendly, and genuine our server was.  It was her warm, welcoming smile that made me want to sit down in the first place.

The weather was still nice after we finished lunch and an entertaining Spanish family sat down.  We could tell they knew the owner, just based on the affectionate way they greeted him.  Then I heard them switch from rapid fire Spanish to perfect German.  I really need to get back to my language lessons.

I decided to have a glass of primitivo, while Bill had an espresso.  I didn’t look at the wine list before I ordered this, but I was so impressed by it, that Bill went in to find out the brand.  Our waitress told us that everyone loves that primitivo.  It was just slightly effervescent.  Looking at the menu now, I see it was Primitivo di Manduria

 

When we left, our waitress bid us a very fond farewell and even taught us a new phrase in Arabic.  Perhaps we’ll see her again.  I would visit Primo another time.  We enjoyed lunch there.

 

Our waitress gave us truly excellent service and it was a real pleasure to sit in her section.  I thought she was Italian when we sat down, but then when I looked at her face, I could tell she was Middle Eastern.  She had beautiful, thick black hair and topaz colored eyes that matched her bronze skin tone.  Aside from being a very attractive young woman, she was also extremely kind and hospitable.  I hope she can visit the United States and she’s treated well there… at least as well as she treated us today.  We really enjoyed talking to her.

After a couple of hours at Primo, we decided to head toward Feinkost Böhm, which is a very expensive and fancy grocery store in downtown Stuttgart that offers everything from fresh sushi to housemade desserts.  But before we made it to the Feinkost, we stopped by the Markthalle.  I always love going into the Markthalle because it has such a festive atmosphere and one can find all kinds of foods there.

Fresh meats, fresh breads, fresh fruits and vegetables…

Lots of wines…

Beautiful produce!

Sausages and cheeses…

We bought Italian cherries, although they had them from Germany and Spain, too.  And we bought limes, in case I get in the mood for a margarita.

 

We also bought a couple of large, dry-aged, rib-eye steaks, which Bill will be cooking sous vide style and then grilling later.

Fresh fish in the Feinkost.  It smelled delicious.

 

We picked up a couple of bottles of wine at the Feinkost and a little dessert.  We may not be at the Army Ball tonight, but I think we’ll still have a nice evening.  If we’d wanted to, we could have eaten at the Feinkost, which has a lovely restaurant now offering outdoor seating, as well as a sushi bar.  No, it’s not exactly cheap to shop there, but sometimes it’s great for a morale boosting treat.

The Feinkost even has an outdoor champagne bar…  God, I love living in Europe!

All in all, we had a really nice afternoon downtown.  We need to visit Stuttgart more often, if only so I can burst into tears when I hear a particularly talented street musician play.  On our way back to the garage, an acoustic guitar player had taken over the corner where the violinist and accordion player had been.  He was doing a mean version of “Mrs. Robinson” by Simon and Garfunkel.

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Fancy in Annecy… Time to go home! part eight

Yesterday morning, I woke up bright and early.  Bill managed to sleep a little bit longer, although he wanted to get an early start.  We packed everything up to load up the car, not realizing that the lobby of the hotel is locked until approximately 8:00am.  Remember, I mentioned the times for breakfast?  Turns out they are rather strict about it at Hotel Les Grillons.  We came down the stairs to find this…

The doors were locked.  There is a night door that has a code.  We didn’t know the code, so I held the door while Bill loaded the car.  Then, we sat on the steps and waited for the doors to open.

 

Bill was perturbed about the closed lobby, since it meant we pretty much had to wait to check out.  There is no night clerk, which is probably not a problem for most people.  This is a very old fashioned hotel, though, right down to the weird room keys that look kind of like Phillips head screwdrivers.  So when you check out, you have to present your credit card.  I paid a 30 percent deposit when I booked, so I thought maybe they had my card on file.  Nope.

The doors opened at about 7:30am or so, giving us the chance to eat before we got on the road.  We were the only ones eating that early.  I’m glad they let us go ahead and take care of it before the prescribed official 8:00am opening time.  Bill was convinced breakfast started at 7:00.  I told him it was at 8:00am and he insisted it wasn’t… then he checked it and had to admit I was right for the second time in less than 24 hours.  Sometimes, he just won’t listen.  I love him anyway.

Bill and I enjoyed one last breakfast, then checked out.  We said goodbye to the adorable pregnant proprietor, who was so warm, gracious, and personable.  Her hospitality and the fantastic food made Hotel Les Grillons truly memorable.  The final bill, minus the deposit, plus the wines and drinks, came to about $800.  I’d say it was money well spent, even if I have stayed in fancier digs.

I should mention that Hotel Les Grillons is dog friendly.  If my two were better behaved in public, I might consider bringing them along.  As it was, I’m kind of glad we left them in Germany.  It gave us the chance to do some unhindered exploring as well as the ability to take my convertible.

This place was obviously for bikers and included some friendly looking goats.

On the subject of Mini Cooper convertibles, I have this to add.  We saw I don’t know how many people trying to hitch a ride.  Some were rather pointedly thumbing at us.  A Mini Cooper convertible is definitely NOT a car that handles more than two adults at a time.  It’s always funny when hitchhikers think they’re going to fit in the back seat.  Not unless they are super tiny people!  There’s a reason they call it a Mini.

Our drive back through Switzerland was uneventful.  This time, we were able to stay on the main highway and were mostly spared the ugly industrial areas we came through on the way to France.  We stopped in Winterthur for lunch and a potty break.  I was actually very pleased by the Italian restaurant where we found ourselves.  The place was called Santa Lucia and it boasted really nice homemade pastas and wines by the glass.

Bill gazes outside, where there was a terrace accommodating smokers.

I had an order of tagliatelle with salmon.  The pasta was excellent.  It tasted housemade.  Also, it wasn’t too much!

Bill had rigatoni with basil, garlic, and pinenut pesto.

 

And this restaurant was a bit less expensive than the one we stopped at in Bern.  Total bill for this was about 65 Swiss Francs– still not cheap, but not as pricey as it could have been.  Switzerland is expensive, I tell you!

Yeah, a corporate looking sign…

But good food and nice, friendly service.  This restaurant is located very close to the Bahnhof in Winterthur.  It’s also near a large shopping area and parking garage.  I’d eat there again.

 

We got back on the road again and before I knew it, we were back in good ol’ Germany.  Bill pulled off at Neckarburg (near Rottweil) to get some gas.  I happened to take note of the very tall structure in the distance.  Actually, you can’t miss it.  I had been wondering about it since I first spotted it on a trip down south via Switzerland.

Notice the “phallic” looking structure in this picture?

 

Well, I finally looked up that structure and found out what it is.  That, my friends, is the world’s tallest elevator testing shaft.  It was completed in 2017 and stands at a massive 807 feet.  While Bill was gassing up the car, I read up on why it was built and what made the developers choose Rottweil as the site to host it.  There is an observation deck at that tower that is higher than the one at the television tower in Berlin.  And yes, you can visit!  Tickets are 9 euros for adults.  You can also get a family ticket good for two adults and up to three children for 26 euros.  Pretty cool, huh?  Now, you know.

That about does it for my Annecy series.  I will finish up with my customary ten things I learned post, which is probably all most people care about anyway, if they care at all.  If you’ve been following along in this series, I thank you for reading.  I like to write detailed posts, not so much for readers, but for myself.  There will come a day when I no longer get to travel like this and I don’t want to forget anything.

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Lunch at Il Due in Nagold…

I have been wanting to try Il Due (the two), an Italian restaurant in Nagold, for ages.  We went there one night and they were totally full.  Most times, when we visit Nagold, we notice this restaurant right off the main square is completely packed.  Although I was struggling with very irritated eyes thanks to fall allergies, we decided to go to Nagold today… and wonder of wonders, we managed to get a table at Il Due.

The place was rather full, but not entirely so.  We sat down next to a very pleasant looking German couple who were very friendly to us.  After we ordered drinks, they moved to another recently vacated table because they ran into another couple they knew and were invited to join them.  I didn’t know it at the time, but the same thing would happen to us about an hour later.

Anyway, Bill and I decided to order from today’s specials.  Bill had a glass of Pinot Grigio and I had a glass the Barbera region in Piemonte.  He had ravioli with Steinpilzen (stone mushrooms) and I had Seeteufel (monkfish) with black tagliatelle and vegetables.  The dining room was energetic, with plenty of of locals enjoying the Italian fare.  I’m pretty sure there was a birthday party going on in a private dining room, too.  We saw people leaving with bouquets of flowers.

Bill studies the menu.  We had plenty of time to look at the menu because service was a little slow.  No big deal, though.

There were only a couple of women taking care of the whole dining room, so service was a bit slow.  It wasn’t a big deal, though, because we weren’t in a hurry.  Our big plan after lunch had us going to the Lidl to buy German style American food for tomorrow’s blog post.  When our food did arrive, it didn’t disappoint.  I could see why Il Due is so popular.

A well stocked wine shelf.  Il Due has a nice bar area with padded benches.  

I went with a Barbera that was on special.  It had really nice jammy flavors with rich red fruits and was just very slightly effervescent.  Bill had the house Pinot Grigio, which was tart, but not all that exciting.  He liked it fine.

Bill’s ravioli, which was priced at about 14 euros.  It was filled with mild mushrooms and topped with rocket, freshly shaved Parmesan cheese, and a cream sauce.  I didn’t try it because mushrooms are of the devil.  But Bill loved it.

I was very happy with my choice, which sold for 24,80.  I’m pretty sure the price was mainly because of the saffron cream sauce.  Seeteufel is monkfish, which is also known as angler.  It’s very dense and reminds me a bit of catfish, without the dirt essence that usually comes with catfish.  It was lightly fried and served with black tagliatelle, black because it was infused with squid ink.  And there were lightly sauteed green beans, carrots, and broccoli.  I really enjoyed this dish, though I couldn’t finish the pasta.

As we were eating, Bill noticed the family that lives across the street from us.  They sat at a table at the back of the restaurant and didn’t notice us by the window.  Just as we were finishing lunch, they saw us and we ended up hanging out for awhile.  I had a couple more glasses of wine, switching to primitivo, which was also very nice had a pleasant vanilla essence.  Our neighbor had a rose that she said was a bit sweet.  We ended up having a great chat and I almost felt a little sad for the wait staff, since they were having their “pause”.  I will note that they were very gracious.  Our neighbors’ daughter had tiramisu for dessert.  The neighbor had a beer; his wife had another glass of wine and so did I.  And we finally got to know each other better after having lived across the street from each other for three years.

I guess Il Due is that kind of place… where people meet and hang out.  We saw more than a few people running into each other there today.  The food was very good.  The service was pleasant and professional.  I would not hesitate to visit again, although I would recommend reservations if you’re going on a popular night like Friday or Saturday.  It’s not a big restaurant and it’s very popular in Nagold.  Pizza and pasta is available, as well as fish and beef.  Warmly recommended!

In warmer months, outdoor seating is available.

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Dinner at Del Sole in Herrenberg…

After a successful first week with his new company, Bill was ready to celebrate over a nice dinner.  We decided to go to Herrenberg and try a restaurant we’ve walked past many times.  Ristorante Del Sole is located on Seestraße, a main artery of Herrenberg.  We parked across the street near the Edeka, but there’s also a large parking lot next to the restaurant.

Bill checks out the posted menu.  This restaurant offers the usual pizza, pasta, and salads, as well as fish, meat, and veal dishes.

Del Sole has a nice dining room, but we opted to sit outside and enjoy the unseasonably cool temperatures.  A bunch of German guys were sitting at a large table near us.  They appeared to be regulars.  There were also a few couples and I noticed several tables were reserved.  An older lady who seemed to be the proprietor was joking around with the table full of guys as if she knew them well.  I always take it as a good sign when a restaurant has regulars who are on good terms with the staff.

Bill checks out the menu.  I made him laugh by singing the Swanson TV dinner jingle to him… “How do you handle a hungry man?  A manhandler!”

I went for the grilled shimp…   This was very simply prepared with garlic and white wine.  I kind of wished for Wet Naps as I peeled the shrimp, but I was impressed by the size and quality of this dish.  I had no trouble sharing shrimp with Bill.

It came with a large plate of perfectly cooked spinach with plenty of garlic.  Again, plenty to share!  I can only take so much spinach in one sitting.

Bill had the scallopine al limone– veal medallions with oven baked potato slices and lemon sauce.  I don’t like to eat veal, so I didn’t try this.  Bill said it was very tender.  I did try the potatoes, which had some of the very tasty lemon sauce on them.  It was very fresh and zesty!

We also got a generous basket of bread made from pizza dough.  We also had a glass each of an Italian red wine that tasted of cherries and we shared a bottle of San Pellegrino.  

 

Service was competent and professional, although we did have to signal the waitress when we wanted to pay.  The bill came to about 46 euros and the waitress was very pleasantly surprised when Bill rounded up to fifty euros.  I was impressed by how good the pizzas smelled and looked.  We’ll have to go back and try them again.

Overall, Bill and I both enjoyed Del Sole, especially the very pleasant biergarten in the back.  I can see why they have a local following.  If you’re in Herrenberg and looking for good a pleasant Italian restaurant, Del Sole isn’t a bad choice… at least based on this first visit.

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Food orgy at Osteria da Gino in Nagold…

A week ago, I wrote a review of Alte Post, a very nice restaurant in Nagold.  Our evening at Alte Post was sublime… and also very expensive.  Last night, while dining at Nagold’s Osteria da Gino, I couldn’t help but compare our two Saturday night culinary experiences.  The five course meal we had at Alte Post was clearly prepared by a classically trained chef and presented with much fanfare.  The mood at Alte Post was almost reverent, with people speaking in low voices and taking pains not to disturb others.

By contrast, last night’s meal at Osteria da Gino’s was more like a very enthusiastic culinary orgy.  The noise level in the dining room was positively boisterous.  And while what we were eating was definitely amazing, I had more of a sense that it was prepared by a very talented family member who really knows how to cook.  It felt more like a very happy dinner party than a religious experience.

We’ve been to Gino’s restaurant several times now, so it almost does feel like we’re visiting family when we stop in for a meal.  Our decision to eat there last night was spur of the moment; and indeed, it was a very good thing Bill called for 7:00 reservations.  The whole place was booked.  But then, Gino has a very small dining room and, more often than not, when we eat inside, we share a table with another couple.  Such was the case last night when after our appetizers, a very pleasant German couple sat down with us and shared in the culinary orgasms.  Pretty soon, the weather will be better and Gino will set up outdoor seating.  The food will be just as good, but the mood will be somewhat different and slightly more private.

Bill prepares for a wonderful meal.

In other reviews I’ve written about Gino’s restaurant, I have mentioned that eating there is a different kind of experience.  Although he has a menu posted on the wall, it’s kind of illegible.  Not once has Gino ever brought us a printed menu.  Instead, he sort of takes the wheel and just starts bringing out food.  It was a little scary the first time we experienced Gino’s hospitality, but now that we’ve grown accustomed to it, we’ve found that it’s really best to let Gino handle everything.  If there’s something you absolutely don’t like, don’t be afraid to tell Gino ahead of time.  For example, he knows I don’t do fungus.  Bill, on the other hand, loves mushrooms and truffles.  So Bill might get something with mushrooms or truffles, while I’ll have something else.

A lovely primitivo we drank last night.  This was the first time we’ve ever gotten a bottle of wine at Gino’s.  Usually, he brings us wines by the glass or in small carafes, which adds to the mystery.  I liked knowing what we were drinking last night, because this was a very nice wine and I’d buy it again.

 

Gino is usually at the door to greet us when we go to his restaurant, but last night, we didn’t see him until we were well into our meals.  I was glad to see him because he has a way of lighting up a room. He’s a very friendly and affectionate guy…  speaks no English, but is so gregarious that it’s easy to talk to him despite the language barrier.  Even though we didn’t see Gino right away, we were well taken care of by the usual staff.  They started us off with four delightful antipasti dishes.

Chilled veal with creamy caper and tuna sauce.  I always smile when I see this, because it’s always delicious!

Caprese…  chilled mozzarella with fresh tomatoes, peppers, salami, and blood oranges.  I usually don’t eat cold cheese, but this was delightful.

Octopus, served warm with super fresh lemon…

Grilled vegetables…  eggplant, zucchini, artichoke hearts, peppers, and tomatoes…

 

You’d think so many starters would be filling, but these dishes were simply prepared and not too much.  I still had plenty of room for the next course… pasta!

This was the first time I’d had this particular dish, which consisted of delicious rigatoni with basil pesto and a very generous dollop of creamy cheese.  This dish was also very liberally seasoned with roasted garlic, which was absolutely insane.  The German couple sitting next to us were obviously enjoying my facial reaction, which must of been one of pure joy.  I can’t be certain it was, but that pasta tasted homemade.  The lady sitting next to me had the same pasta, but with a very light tomato sauce.

 

Next came the meat course.  I happened to notice Gino’s expeditor bringing out the fish for a large table.  He caught my eye and very flirtatiously kissed his fingers, as if to promise me the fish was outstanding.  I love fish, and when I eat with Gino, I usually order the fish over the meat.  So that’s what Bill and I both did…

We both enjoyed the Skrei– a mild white fish from Norway.  Gino paired it with a creamy sauce and plenty of roasted garlic…

And the expeditor also brought out mashed potatoes and broccoli.  I could barely sample the sides and we did not come close to finishing them.  The fish was outstanding, though.  It was very fresh.  We noticed the couple sitting behind Bill shared what looked like an enormous t-bone steak.  The lady sitting next to me had what appeared to be veal.  She clearly enjoyed it, although again, it’s not like you really ask for specific items at Gino’s Osteria.  He just kind of brings stuff out to you.

 

By the time we finished the fish, it was about ten o’clock.  The noise level in the dining room was very high, but not a single person looked like they were sorry they came.  Everyone was having a good time.  I watched Gino and his wife, along with other staff, hugging and kissing guests who obviously visit him more often than we do.  Everybody– and I mean everyone— was having a fun evening, even though the hours were passing and it was getting late.

Bill takes a break as we wait for dessert.

We decided to split the sweets.  This is a plate of assorted Italian goodies.  There was panna cotta, incredible tiramisu, ginger vanilla gelato, roasted plums, and a berry flavored gelato.  We decided not to have coffee, since it was getting past our bedtime.

 

Total damage for this food extravaganza was about 140 euros, before the tip.  At almost eleven o’clock, we said goodbye to Gino’s wife and the lovely German couple who had shared the culinary orgy with us.  Bill marveled at how last night’s sumptuous dinner cost less than half of what we spent at Alte Post and was quite a lot more exciting.  Which isn’t to mean that I didn’t think last week’s dinner was also amazing.  It was.  It’s just that Gino’s place has a very special vibe.  It’s not just about excellent food.  It’s about warmth and hospitality paired with food so fresh, plentiful, and healthy that you feel great as you walk out the door, basking in the afterglow.

As always, I recommend calling ahead for a table, especially if you plan to visit on a Saturday night.  In the colder months, Gino doesn’t have as much seating.  Unless you come in a group, you will likely share your table with another couple.  My advice is to embrace it.  At least three times, when we’ve shared a table at Gino’s, we’ve enjoyed the company of the other couple sitting with us.  In one case, we actually made new friends.  Don’t be afraid to share the experience and mingle.

Don’t go to Gino’s expecting pizza.  He does not serve pizza.  Don’t go to Gino’s looking for a quiet, romantic ambience.  It’s unlikely you’ll get it.  Do go there hungry and ready to try new things.  Above all, relax, have fun, and let Gino do what he does best.  I don’t think you’ll be sorry!

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A trip to Ludwigsburg and lunch at the Emporio Bar…

Bill and I needed to visit Heinrich’s 3000 drink market in Kornwestheim today to drop off some long emptied beer bottles and pick up some full ones.  After we loaded up on lots of Belgian beers and a few from other exotic locales, we headed into Ludwigsburg and searched for a restaurant without a midday pause.  I thought maybe we could go to Towers Irish Pub, but we were just a little too late.  Their kitchen closes at 2:30pm on Saturdays.

One of the beers we picked up today at Heinrich’s.  No, it’s not a description of our day.

I like how Heinrich’s has rearranged their craft beer section.

We rounded the corner and walked down the main drag, where we spotted the Emporio Bar, which was still swinging at 2:45pm.  Emporio Bar runs non-stop from 11:00am until midnight.  We entered the large, airy dining room and a friendly waitress invited us to sit anywhere.  We picked a two top in a corner next to large windows facing Wilhelmstrasse.  It proved to be a great place for people watching, although the four top table next to us was a bit close.  It was empty when we sat down, but became occupied about halfway through our lunch.

Emporio has a very large and rather impressive looking bar.  They also have a full range of Italian dishes, everything from pizza and pasta to regular fish and meat dishes.  I was tempted by a couple of specials, but decided on grilled chicken breast with rosemary potatoes.  Bill went with a very nice pasta dish of chicken and pepper cream sauce.

We both had glasses of wine.  Bill had Primitivo and I had Sangiovese and, of course, San Pellegrino mineral water.

Bill checks out the menu, as usual…

I got a kick out of the sign for the bathroom.  I want one of these for my house.  

Grilled chicken breast with “krauter butter” and rosemary potatoes.  If I had wanted to, I could have had salad or vegetables instead.  I like my starches, though.  It was refreshing to have grilled chicken instead of pork, beef, fish, or pasta.  

But you know, I think I liked Bill’s paprika pasta even better than my dish.  The tagliatelle came with a light cream sauce with roasted red peppers and chicken.  It was delicious.  

A shot of the front door.

 

I think the folks sitting at the next table were curious about us.  They were checking us out and the man gave me sort of a cheesy smile as I squeezed between our tables.  There’s no telling what ran through his mind when I said “Entschuldigung”.  I imagine he was thinking anything from “I hope she doesn’t knock over any wine glasses with her fat ass…” to “Those people probably voted for Trump.”  to “Thank God they’re leaving so I can have some elbow room.”  I’m totally kidding, of course.  They were perfectly polite.  I’m just being snarky.  The guy did give me a cheesy smile, though.

We paid 48 euros for lunch, before the tip.  We liked Emporio Bar enough to try it again sometime, especially if we’re in the area during the traditional pause.  It wasn’t the most exciting meal I’ve ever had, but it was pretty decent.

We parked at a different garage today.  It was very close to the big square.  As Bill was paying, I noted these two fold up seats pictured below.  I wonder how often they get used.  The garage close to the mall closes at 6:30pm on Saturdays.

Easy peasy parking pleasy…

 
 
 
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One terrific afternoon in Tübingen

This morning, as I sat on my couch watching reruns of Dallas on iTunes, my dear husband Bill asked me what I wanted to do today.  Without really thinking about it, I said, “Why don’t we go to Tübingen?”

Tübingen is one of our favorite places to be, especially in these parts.  When we lived here last time, we lived really close and visited all the time.  Now we don’t live quite so close, but we still enjoy the occasional visit.  Today, we decided to take the train rather than drive, which turned out to be a good decision.  Bill wanted to enjoy some alcohol with lunch.  We caught the 12:44 train from Herrenberg and arrived in time to see lots of people enjoying the ice…

These people are braver than I am.  The weather was relatively warm today, although the ice looked somewhat solid.  Some were even wearing ice skates and playing what looked like some form of hockey.

We crossed over the pedestrian bridge toward the old town…  I took a few winter shots.

More people were walking on the river.  That seemed more dangerous, since one side of the river had large melted areas.

I didn’t see anyone fall in, though.

 

We decided to have lunch at La Cantinella, a very nice Italian restaurant we’ve been trying to get back to ever since we moved back to Germany.  We ate there a few times last time we lived here, but never seem to get to town at the right time now.  We happened to get there just in time for lunch today.  They weren’t very busy, although there were several rambunctious kids in the dining room.  At one point, their father apologized on behalf of the high spirited tykes running around, shouting, and banging on the piano in the foyer.  It wasn’t really a problem for us.  They were cute kids who needed to burn off some steam and they didn’t stay long.

Bill checks out the menu.

A little blurry photo of the dining room, which is very quaint and stylish.  By the time I took this photo, the little kids and their dad had moved on.

Bill ordered a lovely primitivo to go with our lunch.  This was full of berries, cherries, and a touch of raisins.  It opened up nicely after awhile.  They also brought us fresh bread and olive oil.

I had sesame encrusted branzino.  To be honest, the fish was a little bland and the sesame seeds were a bit too rich.  The vegetables were nice, though.  Very fresh and not overcooked.  I was also relieved that I didn’t accidentally order anything with mushrooms, like I did last time we visited.  

Bill had a pasta dish with beef and green pepper sauce.  He said it had a spicy kick and he really liked it.  

 

Our bill was about 60 euros.  I was acutely aware that the restaurant was going to have a pause at 2:30pm.  Although the waiter didn’t say anything, I got vibes that he hoped we wouldn’t linger.  I would definitely go back to La Cantinella, though.  It’s got a nice “family owned” ambiance and an impressive wine list.  Next time, I’ll get the pasta that was tempting me today.  La Cantinella does not have pizza and I didn’t notice a children’s menu.  However, they were very tolerant of the kids who were there when we came in for lunch today.

I took a photo of the outside of the restaurant, as well as the surrounding area.

See that crane?  People were hanging off of it.  I didn’t know it when I took this picture, but I was about to get some really great views.

Time for fasching.

A shot of St. George’s Collegiate Church, which dates from 1470.

I noticed signs indicating that the tower was open today.  Bill and I had never climbed up the tower before today.  Now that we’ve done it, I can say that it was worth the trip.  The views are awesome.

One shot of the stained glass.  The organist was practicing as we walked through the church on the way to the tower.  It costs one euro per adult to climb the tower and see the tombs.

The bells were made during different centuries.  Some were made in the 15th century, while others were made in the 20th century.  They are very loud when they ring, especially if you’re climbing up the tower!

It was a long, twisty, narrow walk up, but at least there were things to look at.

And this was our reward!  Check out the crane!  Yes, people are hanging over the city!

Bill enjoys the view.  Right after I took this, he told me how much he loves Tübingen.  I agree; it’s a great place to spend an afternoon!

The crane was rotating.

After a few minutes of enjoying the views, we made our way back down.  We needed to visit Vinum before they closed at 4:00pm.

As we were leaving the church, I noticed this person’s sign hanging out of their window.  We can always count on seeing interesting political statements in Tübingen.

Sad when people deface very old buildings.

We went into Vinum, which is one of our favorite wine stores in the area.  They always have wines to try.  We ended up buying four bottles they were highlighting.

I noticed the construction on the Rathaus was finally done after years of work!

We stopped at Ranitzky’s Kaffeehaus for hot chocolate and a pee break.

I had hot chocolate with Bailey’s…

Bill had plain hot chocolate.

On the way out of town, I noticed that the Dunkin’ Donuts in the old building was gone…

And this very cool yarn store is moving.

I guess Germany doesn’t run on Dunkin’.

More brave souls on the ice.

But look at that!

Pigeon house!

 

We got to the train station just in time to get the 4:17pm train back to Herrenberg.  We really had a lovely afternoon.  I think we need to spend more time in Tübingen.  I think my favorite part of today was climbing the church tower.  That is something well worth doing!  It’s a great energy burner for your little ones, too.

I thought these ads were interesting.

Shit weather?  Hmmm…

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Baden-Württemberg

Dinner at Ristorante da Maurizio in Stuttgart

Yesterday, Bill and I visited Dr. Blair for the last time (I hope) concerning my new dental implant.  The next time we see him will be for cleanings in October, unless there’s some kind of catastrophe between now and then.  I will miss the frequent shopping and eating opportunities visiting Dr. Blair gives us, but I’m glad the implant process is finally finished and I’m thrilled with the results.  It’s great to have a full smile again.

After my appointment, we were a bit hungry.  We stopped at the Markthalle to pick up some eggs, fruit, and bread.  Then we made our way back to the car to drop off the goodies we purchased.  Since that put us close to Dr. Blair’s office again, we decided to find a restaurant on Calwer Strasse.  It was hot and we were thirsty.  I was tempted to hit a biergarten, but then I spotted Ristorante da Maurizio (now called Aria) with an empty outdoor area.  I had been pretty curious about the place over the months I’ve had to go to Stuttgart, but we never stopped there to eat.  Since it was just about dinner time, we read the menu posted on the outside of the restaurant and decided to have a seat outdoors.

One of the reasons I was curious about Ristorante da Maurizio is because besides being a restaurant, it’s billed as a wine bar.  To me, it felt more like a regular restaurant with a full and impressive menu.  The words “wine bar” might just be a gimmick, for all I know.  Maybe next time we visit, it’ll be cold outside and we can venture inside to try out the “wine bar”.

We decided to go with a shared appetizer and a couple of the weekly specials.  Maurizio offers a little something for everyone, though.  There are pizzas, pasta dishes, fish, and meat dishes available.  The weekly specials are also offered in three or four courses, which gives a slight price break to people who are especially hungry.  The “sea menu” was priced slightly less than the “earth menu”.  We weren’t hungry enough to go for three courses.

Bill checks out the menu.  At this point, we were the only ones sitting outside.

Bill obliges me with a smile.  I think he was reacting to a trio of annoying girls who were sitting outside at the health food restaurant next to us.  They were smoking, being loud, and I suspected they were making fun of us.  They also left without cleaning up after themselves.   We ended up paying for their negligence. 

Glad I took the opportunity to take this picture of the outside.  The tables quickly filled up.  More than half of them were reserved.

Bill ordered a lovely bottle of white from the Piemonte.  It was tart and citrusy, which we knew would go well with the seafood dishes we ordered.  

A nice basket of bread.  The breadsticks arrived hot and fresh and were very tasty.

We shared this first course, delicious sun roasted tomatoes, with avocado slices, toasted pine nuts, and olives.  On top is a mound of mild and creamy burrata cheese.  I usually dislike cold cheeses, but I had tried burrata at Ostaria da Gino’s in Nagold and loved it.  Burrata means butter in Italian and I do love my butter, though the cheese doesn’t necessarily make me think of it.  Burrata cheese is like very soft, creamy mozzarella and spreads kind of like room temperature butter.  There was a time when I might have turned my nose up at this dish, but I really enjoyed it yesterday.  I especially loved the tomatoes, which were very sweet and tangy.

The dishes left by the annoying girls sitting next door ended up causing a ruckus when a very aggressive pigeon discovered them a few minutes later.

The pigeon helped itself to their leftovers… I noticed a couple of staffers at the Italian restaurant getting annoyed.

Look in the sky and you’ll see another pigeon homing in…

Soon there were two of them… then three…

And finally, there were five pigeons feasting on the girls’ leftovers and making a big mess!  I can see why my former German neighbors from last time we lived here called pigeons “rats from the sky”!

The folks running the healthy restaurant were oblivious.  I finally encouraged Bill to go move the dishes to the cabinet of trays behind the table.  Quoting Dr. Phil, I said “This situation needs a hero.” Being a civic minded individual, Bill got up and moved a couple of bowls just as the guy running the frozen yogurt stand across the street went into the restaurant to tell the employees to come clean up the mess.  A young girl who looked very much “over it” came out and finished the job.  It was only mildly embarrassing for everyone involved.  

After some time spent chilling out with our white wine, our main courses arrived.  I had fried perch (zander filet) with sliced peaches.  There was a little bit of mint under the fish and peaches which gave the dish a refreshing zest.  The fish was served with cooked bok choy, spinach, a sliced carrot, and potato.  The whole thing was accompanied by a lovely white wine sauce.  I really enjoyed this dish because of the peaches and mint combination.  They were definitely the star attraction.  Without them, this would have been a somewhat ordinary dish. 

Bill had a simple course of tortellini stuffed with mild cheese and sea bass (Wolfbarsch).  It was also served with a sauce flavored with white wine and light cream.  I tried his pasta and I think I liked it as much as I did my dish.   Bill’s pasta was priced significantly less than my fish was; I think it was about 15 euros while my main course was 23 euros.   

 

By the time we were finished eating, it was a little after 7:00pm.  The terrace was almost full of diners and we were a bit hot, full, and tired of sitting.  Of the tree Italian restaurants we’ve tried on Calwer Strasse, I think Maurizio is now my favorite.  The dishes were all presented beautifully and tasted good.  Table service was very attentive with one handsome waiter rushing over to pour me some wine when I grabbed the bottle from the wine bucket.

The only negative I can think of is that smoking is allowed and the tables outside are close together.  Another couple sat next to us and it felt like we were all sitting at the same table even though we were both at “two tops”.  That’s not necessarily a bad thing if everyone’s friendly, but it felt a little awkward last night.  We paid about 83 euros for this meal and we’d probably do it again, though next time I will find a seat further from the health food restaurant next door.  Wouldn’t want to get dive bombed by a crew of aggressive pigeons.

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dental, Germany, restaurant reviews

A four hour birthday meal and new friends at Osteria da Gino in Nagold…

Yesterday was my birthday.  As is our custom on my birthday, Bill and I went out to eat.  Originally, we planned to dine in Stuttgart because I had to go to the dental lab.  I’m in the process of getting a dental implant and we’re now in the end stages.  We went to the dental lab so they could determine what color the new tooth should be and get photos of my mouth.  I thought maybe when we were done, we could find a place in Stuttgart to celebrate birthday #44.

I took a photo of the female form on display at the dental lab…  I guess they don’t just do teeth there.  😉

Bill decided against the Stuttgart plan and booked us a table at Osteria da Gino in Nagold.  I have written about this restaurant several times and continue to write about it because every time we go, we have a great experience.  Gino is a wonderful host who is very friendly and engaging.  He serves fantastic food.  Bill knew he wouldn’t disappoint me on my birthday.  Besides that, the restaurant is very close to where we live and getting to and from there lacks the logistical hassles that can come from dining in Stuttgart.

One of my favorite beers, Prairie Bomb!  This is an American craft beer from Oklahoma that I ordered from Saveur Biere.  I enjoyed this before we went to Nagold for dinner. 

So off we went last night, arriving just in time for our 7:00pm reservation.  We were warmly greeted by Gino, who was sporting a conspicuous bandage on his right hand and thumb.  He somehow managed to cut it.  I was relieved to see that he still had all his digits!  Last night, Gino was offering seating inside and outside.  It was the first time we’d ever been to his restaurant and had a choice of venues.  We ate inside because it looked like it was going to rain.  He and his wife showed us to our table, a six top that we knew we’d end up sharing.

A blurry obligatory shot of Bill.  I must have taken this in a hurry!

The concept of table sharing at a restaurant can be strange for Americans.  We’re used to having our own space.  Here in Europe, where space can be a premium, it can be awkward to share a table with strangers.  Fortunately, last night, we were seated with people who ended up making my birthday more special and memorable.

A few minutes after we sat down, another couple were seated at our table.  I was confused at first, since they started speaking German with Gino, then switched to French.  Then, once they realized we were Americans, they spoke English.  It turned out the husband was French and the wife was German and hails from the Black Forest.  She and her husband had come from Paris to visit her family and were staying in Nagold.  Last night was their first visit to Gino’s after having found it favorably reviewed on Trip Advisor.  I think after last night’s meal, they’ll be back.

Birthday bubbly!

After bringing us a round of prosecco, Gino brought out the usual antipasti, which immediately impressed our new friends from France.  We got to talking after Gino scolded me for not knowing any languages except English.  I corrected him by telling him I speak Armenian (which isn’t so useful outside of the country or areas where Armenians are concentrated).  I also speak some Spanish, though lately when I try to speak it, it comes out Armenian.  It turned out the male half of the couple dining with us had been to Armenia and we were talking about how well the French and Armenians get along.  That segued into an evening of stimulating conversation!

Huge antipasti… Grilled vegetables, cheese, salami, orange and fennel salad, olives… and bread, of course!

I had to take a special photo of the tuna carpaccio…  This stuff is absolutely sinful.

We explained to the other couple that we’d been to Gino’s restaurant several times.  He’s never once brought us a menu, although I have seen one posted on the wall outside and in the dining room itself.  We are always content to let Gino bring us whatever’s available.  Although you can order as many or few courses as you want, we always end up eating four courses when we visit Gino because it’s that good!  Don’t go there looking for pizza.  Gino doesn’t make pizza, but he does have a small deli where you can purchase food to go or a bottle of wine.

Bill enjoyed truffles and angel hair pasta…  He loved it, though I lead a truffle free lifestyle.

I had spaghetti.  This was delicious!  The sauce was so fresh and perfectly seasoned that it almost defies description.  

This is the second time Bill and I have gone to Gino’s and wound up making new friends.  Because his indoor dining room has limited seating, it’s very common to have to share a table if you’re dining inside.  The last time we were there, we ended up dining with fellow Americans who had read my blog and decided to try Gino’s hospitality.  Last night, Gino had many French people in attendance.  Another large group of French speakers joined us about an hour after we sat down.  Gino handled it all with his usual aplomb.  I really don’t know if he speaks French, but he was charming everyone equally.  In fact, because he was so friendly and charming, there was a very long pause between the pasta course and the second course.

Our new friends skipped the pasta.  I enjoyed watching them enjoy the second course.  He had osso bucco and she had the fish, John Dory filet.  It was really fun to see them reacting the same way our American friends Sarah and Mike did when they ate with us at Gino’s back in December.  It was a good thing that we were getting along so well with the other couple at our table.  The conversation made waiting for the main course a lot more enjoyable.  We talked about everything from travel in Africa to American politics.  Amazing, considering we had only known each other a couple of hours!

Bill and I both had the fish last night, served with very fresh white asparagus and a shrimp.

 

It was getting close to 11:00pm when Bill and I finally shared dessert…

A panoply of Italian sweets!  Strawberries, panna cotta, chocolate cake, and ice cream!  The total damage for four courses for two was about 179 euros.  Gino will take credit cards, though we paid in cash.

 

It was finally time to call it a night and we exchanged cards with our newfound friends.  If we ever make it to Versailles, they have promised to show us the sights!  I love living in Europe.  You never know what will happen or who you’ll meet.  That being said, I have a tendency to get carried away sometimes.  I hope our new friends didn’t think I was too much of a chatterbox!

On Thursday of this week, Bill and I will venture to Talblick, a hotel and restaurant in Wildberg.  We have been trying to get reservations at their gourmet restaurant for months, so I am excited to finally get to try it out.  Stay tuned for a review!

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dental

An early dinner at La Nuova Trattoria da Franco in Stuttgart

Yesterday, Bill and I had to go see Dr. Blair for yet another step toward getting my new dental implant.  He took impressions of my teeth and measured my jaw so that the lab can make my new tooth.  Although yesterday’s visit wasn’t painful, it was somewhat unpleasant and involved bad smells and a mouth full of sticky goo.

After we were finished with the dental stuff, Bill and I were hungry and I really wanted a glass of wine.  We’ve passed La Nuova Trattoria da Franco many times on our way to and from Dr. Blair’s office.  Many times, we have been tempted to stop in for a bite.  Yesterday, we finally took the plunge.  It was about 4:00pm and I was a little worried that all they’d have available would be cakes and such.  I needn’t have concerned myself.  La Nuova Trattoria da Franco’s kitchen stays open all day.  Bravo!  The waiter asked us to leave our wet umbrella in the foyer, then seated us near the window so I could watch people walk by.  When it comes to people watching, Stuttgart rarely disappoints.

This restaurant is rather chic and elegant, with modern decor and starched white tablecloths and napkins.  There’s a small bar and a couple was sitting there having a lively chat.  A well dressed older woman sat two tables down from us and looked like she was enjoying a nice break from the rain.  She carried a shopping bag from Aigner.  The menu had several “menus” offered– that is, two course meals offered at a discount.  They also had plenty of a la carte stuff.  I was tempted by some of the menu choices, especially since I was hungry.  But it did seem like a lot of food and we did have the traffic to face, so we went for a la carte items.

Obligatory shot of Bill right after we ordered food.  I was enjoying a nice glass of primitivo.

Our waiter brought out bread.  It was very good!

 

I had Seeteufel (monkfish) with a mixed salad.  I think this may have been the first time I’ve had monkfish in a very long time.  I ordered it not knowing exactly what it was until Bill looked it up for me on his phone.

My fish was very good.  The flesh was dense, well seasoned, and not too dry.

The fish came with a huge fresh salad, which I shared with Bill.  I dressed it with a little olive oil, balsamic vinegar, and a few spritzes from my lemon wedge.  

Bill went with the spaghetti gorgonzola, which was exactly what it sounds like.  He said it was very good, though I didn’t try it.  It was too much like what I had for lunch (Egg noodles Alfredo).

 

Our waiter asked if we wanted coffee.  I said I’d rather have another glass of wine.  Bill put his hand over his glass and pantomimed driving, which made the waiter laugh.  As we were sitting there enjoying our early dinner, I told Bill that I liked this place better than Positano, another nearby Italian restaurant we tried a few months ago.  Bill agreed.  I liked the food and atmosphere better, although both are handy when it’s mid afternoon and you’re in downtown Stuttgart and hungry.

A shot of the elegant looking bar.  They also have an outdoor area that is covered by a tent, but it was raining too much for anyone to use it yesterday.

The front of the restaurant.

 

We enjoyed our first visit to La Nuova Trattoria da Franco and I have a feeling we could be back, especially if I need more dental work.  Props to them for keeping the kitchen open all day.

On another note, Bill managed to score us a table at a very popular gourmet restaurant in Wildberg.  Stay tuned for a review next week of a place we’ve spent months trying to get reservations!

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