Because today was a nice day weather wise, and we were still feeling good after yesterday’s outing, we decided to go to Hofheim today. Hofheim is a super cute town near where we live. When we lived in Jettingen, we used to hang out in Nagold a lot. Now, you might say Hofheim has kind of taken Nagold’s place as the cute neighbor town, although thanks to COVID, we haven’t yet explored it as much as we should have after going on three years of living up here in Wiesbaden.
We mainly wanted to walk around and have some lunch, and we decided to drive my Mini, as it needs to be driven more often. I was also hoping to put the top down. Unfortunately, the roof malfunctioned and we could only get the sunroof to open. I’m sure there’s an easy fix, but it’s about time for the car to be inspected and serviced anyway… I’ll let the mechanics deal with it. And then, maybe I’ll go car shopping… 12 years is a long time to drive the same car.
As we passed through the parking lot where we parked my Mini for free, I took note of how quiet and peaceful the town was. It’s a Sunday, of course, but I think Hofheim is just a more sedate town. We need to spend more time there. They have some nice restaurants and shops… and we found a nice restaurant today.
The new eatery, called Schmiede, is Italian, specializes in wines, and is in the same building that used to house an awesome Latin flavored health food restaurant called Blanca Bistro until COVID-19 struck. Blanca Bistro, like some other beloved eateries, did not survive the disease. We LOVED Blanca Bistro and were very sad when it closed. We only got to try it once! But Schmiede is a nice replacement. Below are some photos from our glorious Italian lunch!
This was in the parking lot. No one was heeding the sign.The little tower, which is a nice restaurant we haven’t yet tried.Hofheim is so quaint.Schmiede’s hours.Today’s menu…Bill in repose.We ordered wine… this was a Sauvignon Blanc from Sud Tyrol.Good stuff.I had scampi with avocados, rucola, tomatoes, Paccheri pasta, and peppers.Bill had triangolini with lemon butter sauce, mascarpone cheese, and sage.For dessert… we both had ice cream with strawberry coulis!Everyone was in a lighthearted mood.
We really enjoyed Schmiede, which is German for “smithy”. I guess the building was once a blacksmith’s forge. Our waiter was friendly and attentive, and the food was excellent. But really, we just enjoyed the laid back and quiet atmosphere, elegant food, and being outside of the backyard again. Lunch was 81 euros, but for that we got a nice bottle of white wine, a bottle of sparkling water, two filling dishes, and dessert. Both dishes were beautifully prepared and presented, and such a pleasure to taste. We will be back for sure. They also served wonderful, fresh, black olive bread with olive oil and balsamic vinegar, which got things off to a good start. I think we could become regulars. It looked like the waiter had already made friends with some of the locals. They were waving and stopping by to say hi.
Below are a few more photos from our outing. It was definitely a different mood and atmosphere than Wiesbaden was yesterday.
Schnell tests available for COVID-19.Downtown… so cute!House made in 1688!Same house.Big church.No smoking… and no letting your pets take a crap or pee.Antifa ad.The mood is different up here… not quite like BW, but nice.Wedding dresses.A library.Somewhere else to explore.Quick test!Cool, manmade creek. Kids loved it.We didn’t stop at the Chalet for more wine… but we might next time!Use the public WC!
We didn’t spend a lot of time walking around. I had to pee. Hofheim has a public restroom, but I wanted to get home to the dogs. I was sure they missed us, since they have had us at home so much lately. Still, it was so nice to be able to get out and see something new. I love taking new photos and having different food. I hope this downward disease trend continues. There are so many places we want to explore, and we are both ready for long weekend trips again. Bring it on! I’m ready to write about travel and food again!
Schmiede was a real success. We will go back… and try some of the other restaurants in town, too.
In celebration of our fully vaccinated and certified status, Bill and I decided to visit Wiesbaden yesterday. It was my first visit to the downtown in almost a year. I hated the COVID-19 rules so much that I just stayed home, where I could do my own thing without having to worry about confrontations, dirty looks, or judgments from other people. I realize that attitude was probably prompted by news articles and social media posts I was reading on the Internet about how things are in the United States. I read so many accounts of people getting into altercations about COVID-19 that it just turned me off of interacting with other people. So, visiting Wiesbaden was kind of a big deal. I guess our Heidelberg visit last weekend was a reminder to me that life is still going on where we live, too.
I took some photos of what was happening in Wiesbaden yesterday, as well as our visit to Scotch N’ Soda, an Irish pub and popular American hangout. We stopped in for lunch and got treated to a little concert by buskers… guys I’ve seen before in the city. They rove around town with their instruments. One guy has an upright bass violin. We saw him lugging it around before he met his buddies for their session. I was so happy to see and hear them that I tipped ten euros. One of them rewarded me with “twinkling eyes” (he squinted and smiled affectionately– I used to see this in Armenia all the time) and a hearty “Danke schoen!”
Politics… as we were leaving, this truck was parked in the walkplatz. A table was set up with Schwag, and there were cops everywhere. Looks like a rally!
I had forgotten how pretty Wiesbaden is.
It definitely has a posh vibe.
It’s as if God was shining down on us… the bells were ringing, too.
The outdoor seating areas were full of people dining out.
The market was shutting down. I wished we were earlier, so we could have gotten some produce.
Signs of life and happiness everywhere.
Yes, we’re open!
Restaurant row was hopping! It was a little too crowded for me, though, despite the plexiglass barriers put up to hamper the spread of germs.
Bill checks out the bar menu at Scotch N’ Soda.
I thought about the MO FO burger, until I realized how huge it is… hence the hefty price tag.
Buskers!
That steakhouse also has good food.
I had spare ribs. Had to take some home.
The ribs came with mashed potatoes and salad. Bill had to help.
He had fish n’ chips, which were excellent.
This is so Wiesbaden…
There’s a lot of money here.
It’s not uncommon to see many ladies who lunch, dressed to the nines and driving hot cars.
Yeah… it fucked my year!
A classic European version of the brown squirrel who kindly posed for me. American squirrels don’t look this cute. I think think the squirrel approved of our fun yesterday.
As we were enjoying beer and lunch at Scotch N’ Soda, the buskers played “my song”. It’s not my song in that I love it– although I do. It’s my song because I’ve sung it so many times that the lyrics are burned on my brain and I can’t mess it up. I’m the same way with Patsy Cline’s version of “Crazy”. I don’t actually do those songs very often anymore, because I’ve done them so many times. But people who know me and know my songs, know those are perennial favorites from way back!
Another one of our funny experiences in a Biergarten.
On our way out of Wiesbaden, a young woman with a child asked me in German if I had two ten cent pieces for a twenty cent piece. I was surprised when I understood her without having to think too hard about it. I guess seven years in Germany is finally rubbing off on me. 😉
I think we may head out again today… take my Mini Cooper convertible, which has suffered mightily from disuse during the pandemic. We had to replace the battery two or three times because it went dead from lack of driving. Finally, we bought a battery charger and an air pump for the tires, which also were going flat from temperature changes and lack of use. Normally, during the summer months, we use my car all the time!
I would like to drive to the Rhein– maybe to Eltville or Bacharach. I’m not sure how successful that would be, though, because Die Salzbachtalbrücke, which is a bridge on A66 is falling apart and will have to be blown up soon, because it can’t be repaired. That means a traffic nightmare for the next fourteen months or so, or at least that’s what the paper estimates. I’m pretty sure we usually go over that to get to those areas… and there are other places we haven’t been recently that need our attention. Maybe we’ll hit Hofheim today, instead. We’ll see… it’s just so nice to finally have the option to go out and be relatively free to be normal.
Wiesbaden was almost back to normal yesterday. They didn’t even do contact tracing at Scotch N’ Soda yesterday… no need to use the Luca app for checking in, like we did in Heidelberg last weekend. I hope the trend continues, although everybody is a bit worried about the Delta variant of the COVID-19 virus.
I think now it’s time to plan for a vacation… and a trip to Stuttgart for dental hygiene purposes.
As I have mentioned more than once in my main blog, 2020 has been a hell of a year for a lot of people. Between us, Bill and I have lost three loved ones in less than two months. I lost a cousin and a different cousin’s spouse. Bill lost his father. My cousin and Bill’s dad both died in November. Last night, we found out that we also lost a good friend in a guy we have been calling the “Mad Scientist” since 2008.
I found out about the Mad Scientist’s death by chance last night, as I was looking up his Greek restaurant, Agais, in Entringen, Baden-Württemberg, a place where Bill and I enjoyed many meals and lots of wine. It was where I tried retsina for the first time, and learned to enjoy t’zatziki, a yogurt and cucumber sauce much beloved by anyone who enjoys Greek food. It was also where I learned the Greek word “γιαμας” (pronounced “giamas”), which is roughly equivalent to the English expression, “cheers”.
I became a late convert to Greek cuisine, having tasted it for the first time in Vaihingen (a part of Stuttgart near Patch Barracks) at a little place called Taverna Faros. Taverna Faros had wonderful food, and we ate there a bunch of times during our first six weeks in Germany back in 2007. At the time, we were living in the Vaihinger Hof, a rather crappy but cheap hotel located in Vaihingen, which, over the years, has hosted many people moving to Stuttgart. I’m not sure the Vaihinger Hof is still open these days, since Air BnB has provided alternatives to living in hotels. But we were there for six weeks, and got very familiar with the restaurants in Vaihingen, since there were no kitchen facilities at the Vaihinger Hof.
Taverna Faros was where I tried dorade and gyros for the first time. Unfortunately, the proprietor was rather abruptly forced to shut down because he allegedly didn’t pay his taxes. The place where Taverna Faros once was is now known as The Auld Rogue. It’s a very popular Irish pub, and if you explore this blog, you’ll see that Bill and I visited there many times when we lived near Stuttgart from 2014-2018. Every time I went in there, I remembered that it was once a Greek place, and later became a disco, which we never visited.
Anyway, in the fall of 2007, after six weeks in the rather dirty but lovingly staffed hotel, we finally found a house in a little town called Pfäffingen. It was just a few miles west of the great city, Tübingen. Agais is located in a little village called Entringen, which we frequently drove through on our way to the military installations in the Stuttgart area. It was about 2 kilometers north of Pfäffingen.
Since I had recently discovered a love for Greek food, I told Bill I wanted to try Agais. We kept passing it every time we had to go to Patch or Panzer Barracks, and I was very curious about the food. So one night, we stopped in for dinner. It was probably in 2008, since we moved to our house in November 2007 and it took us awhile to get acquainted with the area. I remember when we walked in, there was no one there. But then a smiling Greek guy with wild, curly dark hair appeared.
Our old friend.
At first, he thought I was Greek. If you were to see me in person, you might be as baffled as I was by that. I’m short, blonde, and very buxom, with blue eyes. Personally, I think I look very Celtic, which stands to reason, since my people were mostly from the British Isles. But the Mad Scientist initially spoke Greek to me. When I reacted with a baffled expression, he realized we are Americans and switched to English. He welcomed us heartily, and we sat down at what would become our usual booth (the only one in his restaurant, actually). He turned on Greek music– from Zorba the Greek. The walls, painted white and bright blue, were covered with personal mementos.
I remember after enjoying our first nice meal at Agais, I told the proprietor that I thought we’d be regulars. He said, “I think you should.” When we got home that night, Bill said the guy reminded him of a “Mad Scientist”. So that’s what we’ve called him ever since. His wife, Renate, is German and cooks the food.
Of course, the Mad Scientist had a name. I think he went by the name John in Germany, but I found out last night his real name was Ioannis. He was born December 27, 1938 and died on November 9, 2020, just one day after we lost Bill’s dad. I don’t know what ended John’s life, but in recent years, I did notice that he was not as vibrant as he once was. I don’t know for certain, but I suspected that he might have had a stroke during the five years we were out of Germany. I say this because when we first met him in 2008, he spoke perfect English. When we saw him again for the first time, back in 2014, he struggled to speak English and, in fact, may have even had some trouble with German, which he’d also previously spoken perfectly.
During our first two years in Germany, we stopped by Agais many times. We also brought visitors there. Those first couple of years, John was quite healthy. He told us that he used to work in Canada as an engineer. He moved there with his first wife, whom I think was Greek. Their marriage broke up, so he married a German woman, who brought him to Germany to live. That marriage broke up, and he married another German woman, the one we know as Renate. They had a son who, during our first tour, was attending the university in Tübingen. Sometimes, we’d see him in the restaurant, helping out. He looked a lot like his dad, complete with the wild, curly black hair.
Although I’ve had Greek food I’ve liked better, Bill and I loved to visit Agais because we could always count on an entertaining evening. John loved to chat about all subjects, and we’d talk about everything from American politics to Greek/Turkish relations. He learned how we liked our food, and we could always count on getting pistachio nuts and candy at the end of the meal, as well as ouzo. John was also famous for giving out eucalyptus drops, which will clear out your sinuses and are great to have around whenever you’re sick with a cold or the flu. I carried them around in my purse for years after we moved the first time.
In 2009, we had to leave Germany a year earlier than we expected. We never got the chance to say goodbye to John and his wife. I always regretted that, since they’d shown us such a good time when we were in Germany the first time. The five years we were back in the States, I thought about them a lot.
Just before we moved, they had opened up a “vacation apartment”. It still operates today. I remember on one of the last visits we had before we moved “home”, we happened to dine there at the same time John and his wife were hosting several obnoxious German couples. I wrote about that incident when it happened and the story can be found on this blog. The short version is, these couples were staying in Entringen and had been dining at Agais all week. They had sort of taken over John’s restaurant, dictating which music he should play, and running him ragged. I noticed they were casting derisive looks at Bill and me.
I understood much less German then than I do now, but I could tell at least one of them was making fun of us. And we also heard them disparaging the Swiss. When they finally left, John asked us if we understood what they were saying. Bill said we hadn’t. Chuckling wickedly, John said, “Those people have been here all week for marriage counseling. They’re here in a last ditch effort not to get divorced!” Apparently, there is or was a marriage counselor in Entringen of some renown, and the annoying jerks at the table near us were there to receive services.
When Barack Obama got elected, I remember John was excited. He said he was glad to see a black man in the White House. Then he added, “But I think he might get shot.” We were shocked at the time, but given the fact that John was an older man who had lived through the Kennedy administration and watched America from afar, I could kind of see where he might have gotten that impression. Fortunately, Mr. Obama survived his time as our president.
In September 2014, Bill and I finally visited our old friend again. We walked into his restaurant, and it was unusually busy. His wife saw us and recognized us immediately, giving us a huge grin and a welcome. It took John a couple of minutes, but then his eyes widened and he smiled and said, “You are back in Germany!” It was at about that time that we realized that he was not the same man he was in 2009. But we made a point of visiting him occasionally when we were living in Jettingen, which was probably a 15-20 minute drive from where he was.
I wish we’d had a chance to see him once more before we left the Stuttgart area about two years ago. I would have liked to have been able to say goodbye. Unfortunately, we never got around to it. The last time we saw him was in September 2018. I noticed that over the years, the portion sizes were smaller and the prices were a bit higher. And he’d stopped handing out pistachios. I don’t think it was necessarily because he was trying to be stingy. I think business had gotten rough for him, especially after he got sick (and he did confirm that he was sick for awhile). But his English did improve, even if it wasn’t as fluent as it once was. And we still loved to visit his restaurant, remember old times, and make new memories.
It looks like his wife is carrying on with the restaurant and apartment, although Germany is now back in lockdown mode until at least next month. On their Web site, it says they’re doing some renovation work. I hope she can keep the place going during these tough times.
Agais is the one place that bridged our two stints near Stuttgart. It’s the one constant of both time periods, a place where we were always warmly welcomed. A lot of the restaurants we used to love to visit during our first stint went defunct long ago, but not Agais. And we could always count on John and Renate to show us a nice time. I will always remember the “Mad Scientist” fondly. He was a very good man.
Naturally, we needed to go out to eat for my birthday. We usually like to choose a nice dinner spot, but thanks to the pandemic, that’s become a more complicated endeavor. For instance, last year, Bill took me to Ente, a Michelin starred restaurant in Wiesbaden. I liked Ente fine, but I probably wouldn’t go out of my way to eat there again.
We decided to have lunch over dinner because when we made the decision, I was legitimately hungry. So was Bill. Hanging out at the Therme had brought on an appetite. We went on OpenTable.de and I found Lucullus, in Konigstein im Taunus, an adorable little town we had not been to prior to yesterday. It specializes in fine Italian cuisine, which is definitely not necessarily what many Americans think of as “Italian”. The dress code said “smart casual”, so we got cleaned up and slightly dressed up. Bill wore a nice shirt and pants and I wore a dress. And then we went and sat on their very nice terrace and proceeded to enjoy a beautiful two hour lunch.
Lucullus was somewhat different in how it handled the contact tracing requirements. There’s a QR code on the table. You use your phone to scan it after you download an app (or Bill did, anyway). It records your info and that’s that. Very simple, and takes only a couple of seconds. With that done, we had some fizzy local water, a beautiful, leathery, tobacco-ey Montalcino, and warm bread while we decided on lunch. The menu is on a piece of paper that doubles as a placemat. Here are the photos:
Obligatory shot of Bill…
I loved the leathery wine… it was full of character.
I also loved the plates, which were decorative, but also made the food even more appealing and beautiful. This, of course, was olive oil with thick balsamic vinegar for the bread.
Fresh flowers…
Bill started with a truffled burrata set upon a layer of beet slices and avocado.
I had warm tuna carpaccio with Shiso salad, raspberry vinaigrette and raspberry “caviar”, which were really just tiny little balls that burst with raspberry flavor.
This was the QR code Bill scanned discreetly at the beginning of lunch.
Then it was time for the second course. I had risotto with a pea puree and a thin layer of sliced Norwegian “langostino lobster”… it was a pretty dish, made even prettier by the plate. It was my first trying the shellfish. It wasn’t what I was expecting, but I really enjoyed it. On the menu, it was called “scampo carpaccio”… again cooked without heat.
Bill went with spaghetti with tuna, tomatoes, fennel, capers, and olives. This was supposed to be housemade tagliolini, but I guess they didn’t have it. Bill loved it.
The wait staff was very attentive and friendly. Everybody working wore face masks, but at one point, I got up to pee during their pause (we were finishing up) and the waiter laughed and said I didn’t need a mask because there was no one in the indoor part of the restaurant. Awesome! I really liked the interior of the place, too. It was very stylish and homey, but in a cool, Italian way.
For dessert, against my better judgment, I had the dreaded lava cake. Lava cakes taste good, but everyone does them. I give bonus points to restaurants that serve a regular slice of cake. They didn’t have that, though, so I gave in… it came with a scoop of caramel ice cream, which was a bit melted by the time it got to me. Bill loved his choice, a caramel creme with a scoop of mandarin sorbet scented with a hint of sage, which gave it a fascinating flavor…
Bill’s “custard”… the sorbet was a hit!
My birthday cake…
And they gifted us with a round of dessert wine, which went beautifully with the dessert!
The bill came to about 150 euros. By the time we were done eating, it was getting close to 4:00pm, so we didn’t need much for dinner. I really enjoyed our lunch. I probably loved it even more than usual, since we’ve not been able to dine out in so long. The town was full of people, too. Many were walking around maskless. I did see one elderly lady with a face shield as opposed to a mask, as well as a restaurant worker with a shield that covered the bottom half of his face instead of a mask.
I got lots of photos, too… of people just enjoying life and the beautiful sunny weather and mild temperatures.
The flowers…
Kids having fun at a skate park…
We met a very friendly golden retriever here, too…
A view of Lucullus’s tented terrace from the city park.
I have missed this so much.
We need to explore a lot more.
View from where I sat at the restaurant.
After lunch, we went back to the hotel. Bill did a German lesson, and I tried to read a news article about Tiffany Trump and promptly fell into a deep sleep. I guess the lunch and the sudden exposure to society wore me out… But it was a delightful afternoon, followed by another night at the Panorama Bar, where we were warmly welcomed. We drank beer instead of cocktails, which seemed to disappoint the wait staff. But we had a light dinner and tipped well, and as we were leaving, the waitress asked if we’d be back tonight. We told her we live only twenty minutes away… and you know, I think I would go back to that hotel for a night or two of fun. Why not?
Although the weather is cloudy, foggy, cold, and grim, Bill, Parker, and I decided to go to Wiesbaden for lunch. I knew a lot of places would be crowded due to the icky weather, but we still managed to find a relaxed atmosphere at Due Amici, an Italian restaurant in Downtown Wiesbaden that, prior to today, Bill and I had never tried. Due Amici is billed as an “Italian Crossover Kitchen”, and indeed, there were a few items on the menu that weren’t Italian. For instance, I noticed they had burgers, including a salmon burger with Asian accents, and steaks from Australia. But they also had pasta with black truffles and Burrata auf Caponata.
We had our usual bottle of San Pellegrino, and Bill ordered a bottle of Nero D’Avola, a lovely red that has become one of my favorite grapes/wines since we moved back to Germany. Parker had the pasta with black truffles, I had tagliatelli con lachs, and Bill had Beef Tagliata with Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and rucola. Below are some photos:
Specials for today…Bill makes his choice…I loved the bread. It was super fresh and came with fresh tomato sauce, as well as an olive tapenade. A nice red wine…This was my dish. I have had better salmon tagliatelli, although I liked how this was presented. We brought half of it home.I liked Bill’s dish more, and he was able to clean his plate!Parker loved her dish, with little satchels filled with ricotta and flavored with black truffles.For dessert, tiramisu for Bill and me.Parker had creme brûlée, and said it was better in France.
I really felt comfortable in the restaurant, which had nice bank seating with cushions and ample space between tables. I didn’t care too much for the loud, dramatic Italian pop that sounded like it was inspired by opera, but they later changed it to something a little less commanding of everyone’s attention. Service was excellent– professional and friendly, but not overly intrusive. I would definitely go back, especially since I saw a couple of the burgers and they looked very good.
After lunch, Parker said she wanted to get some locally made chocolate to take back to Texas. We took a stroll around the block, and they showed me where the new Five Guys is opening this Thursday. I hear Stuttgart also has a brand new Five Guys, which may give some of the local burger joints some competition. I suspect the Five Guys restaurants will be packed with Americans for at least a few weeks after they open! Hard to believe that, not long ago, people would drive all the way from Stuttgart to Frankfurt to get a burger from Five Guys or dine at Chipotle Mexican Grill. Now, at least, people won’t have to go so far for their American fast food burger fix.
Big news in Wiesbaden.We saw workers in their uniforms being trained and overheard a guy who spoke perfect English saying that this location opens Thursday.
We passed the usual buskers, Middle Easterners, who always seem to be playing on Saturdays and Sundays. I dropped a few euros into their plate and one of them covered his heart with his hand. I like to support street musicians. Parker noticed the Lindt store, but I reminded her that she can easily get Lindt balls of chocolate in America. A few stores down was L’Art Sucre Patissier and Chocolatier. Parker got her chocolate, and I got a few photos of a really nice place for desserts.
Desserts…Chocolate bars…Gifts…Treats of all kinds…Wiesbaden is regal!
Stuttgart is a beautiful city, but I think it kind of pales when compared to Wiesbaden. Wiesbaden is a very lovely town with a slower pace. It’s really growing on me, even though I do really miss the bucolic countryside in Swabia. It’s amazing what you don’t miss until it’s gone.
Prior to Monday, I had never heard of Soultzmatt, another cute town in Alsace where wonderful locally produced wines are turned out every year. My friend, Ellen, said that she’d been buying wines from Klein René et Michel for years. As I mentioned in my previous post, I knew Ellen from Facebook. Before Monday, I had never met Ellen in person, though we have been interacting for a few years now. She and her friend, Louise, were about a half an hour behind us, so we had originally planned to visit Eguisheim. But the lure of wine was too strong to resist, and we soon found ourselves on the was to 5 Rue Ingold in Soultzmatt.
Bill was a little confused at first, once we found the winery. We weren’t sure where to park, or where to go. As luck would have it, another couple pulled up at about the same time we did, only they were French and spoke no English. Ellen had asked us to wait, but since the lady was already opening the tasting room for the French couple, we decided to go ahead… We knew we’d still be tasting wines when Ellen and Louise showed up. Sure enough, we were!
The lady who was running the tasting didn’t speak any English at all, so things were a little awkward at first. But then Bill told her he speaks a little German and, lo and behold, she spoke German, too! We’ve found that a lot of people in Alsace speak German, especially among the older folks. There’s a guy in Ribeauville who sells liqueurs and wines who speaks no English, but has happily carried on conversations with Bill, despite Bill’s limited German proficiency.
By the time Ellen and Louise showed up, the French couple had left with three boxes of wine– probably about 18 bottles worth. And Bill, Parker, and I had already tried about three… Ellen speaks French and German, so things got a lot easier after that! We left with twelve bottles of wine ourselves.
On the way into town…Here’s the city hall, just steps away from the winery.Parker checks out the list…So does Bill.Heading back to Ribeauville.
Ellen did manage to get a nice shot of us enjoying our wine…
This was a very successful stop!
It’s always a pleasure to meet online acquaintances offline. After all, that’s how Bill and I came together. We used to be strictly online friends. Ellen and Louise were delightful company. It turns out we have some things in common, too. Louise is a horse person, and I was a horse person for years before I grew up… and out. Louise lives in Mobile, Alabama, which was where my horse lived after his very first owner in Baton Rouge, Louisiana sold him with his mom. Louise is also the name of my former riding instructor. 😉 And Ellen was especially great company, especially since we lived in the same community and have husbands who do somewhat similar work. I was most impressed by her ability to speak French and German. Time for me to get back on the stick, I guess.
After we tasted and bought our wine, we headed back to Ribeauville. Parker stayed in while Bill and I went searching for dinner. We found only one open restaurant, though it was one we’d never tried before… Restaurant Le Ribeaupierre. I see it gets pretty low Trip Advisor ratings, although I can honestly say I have legitimately had worse dining experiences in Ribeauville. We were the only ones in the restaurant, but the waiter was still very pleasant and the food wasn’t bad.
We had never tried the Restaurant Le Ribeaupierre before…I had lasagne. It was lukewarm and, sadly, had two mushrooms in it. Bill took them away for me. The lasagne was otherwise alright.Bill had salmon with sauerkraut and citron sauce.A delightful Irish Coffee for me…AnAnd a “colonel” for my retired Lieutenant Colonel…
Restaurant Le Ribeaupierre is quaintly decorated and seems like a somewhat popular lunch spot, despite its low ratings on Trip Advisor. It looks like they mostly serve pizzas. I had some trouble choosing what I was going to have, mainly because the presence of mushrooms pretty much spoil my meals (not that I can’t afford to have some spoiled). Lasagne is one of those items that is hit or miss. Sometimes people use mushrooms in them. Sometimes they don’t. Anyway, this meal was alright. The Irish Coffee made up for it, and Bill enjoyed his “colonel”– lemon sorbet with a shot of vodka. We noticed that the waiter locked up right after we left, at about 8:00pm. Like I said, Ribeauville is dead in January, but plenty of fun can still be had if you look hard enough.
After taking Arran to the Hundepension, Bill, Parker, and I loaded up the Volvo and headed to France. It was cold and cloudy, as it usually is this time of year. However, it wasn’t so cold in Germany that I packed my down jacket. I eventually regretted that decision, because it did get pretty cold in France. I did at least bring a cape that I could layer over my wool sweater. Global warming is definitely a thing, though. When we were in Germany the first time, I would not have dreamed of going outside without down. The past couple of years have truly been unseasonably warm here. We haven’t even had any snow yet. Last time I saw a decent amount of white stuff was when we lived in Jettingen.
We got on the road at about lunchtime on Saturday, January 18th. In retrospect, we probably should have eaten before we left, but I was eager to get on the road. We made one pit stop before lunch, where I managed to take a few inappropriate pics. I always get a kick out of the signs and ads in the bathrooms, as well as the people who prefer to go au naturale rather than pay the 70 cents to pee in private…
Pregnant? There’s help!I get a kick out of these signs. No wonder there aren’t any seats on French public toilets.This guy decided he’d rather pee outside.
We ended up stopping in Landau, a pleasant town in southern Rhineland-Palatinate, not that far from the French border. I had told Yannick we were shooting to be at his gite between 3:00 and 4:00, but hadn’t realized that lunch would take as long as it did.
As it was, we stopped very close to the “witching hour” of 2:00pm, which is when a lot of restaurants shut down for a pause. I managed to find us a Paulaner restaurant, the Paulanerstuben-Landau, which still had lunch going. That turned out to be a fortuitous stop. The food was delicious, even if came out at a rather leisurely pace.
This was a good stop…Not only do they have a good “Pippi Rue”…But the decor is charming and authentically German…They have delicious crispy chicken…Wiener Schnitzel to die for…And, of course, sausages! The fries were good too.This was worth the stop.We’d stop again!
I had the delicious half chicken, which was crispy and probably done “extra spicy”. I say that, because they used a lot of black pepper to season it. I also noticed that they offered less spicy and mild versions. I wish I had specified, because when it comes to spicy food, my tastes are very German… or British. Makes perfect sense, too. Bill had the Wiener Schnitzel and Parker had sausages. Both of them liked their choices as much as I liked mine.
Ain’t France beautiful?
The rest of our drive to France was uneventful, except for when we stopped at an unusually rustic rest stop. There was another couple ahead of me. The man used the pissoir, which was outside (on a related note, I sure did see my share of public urination on this trip). The woman was in one of the two little wooden sheds, but she’d neglected to lock the door. Consequently, I opened the door on her when she was mid piss. Sigh… sorry lady, but I didn’t know you were in there. The doors lock for a reason.
Beware of pests…Pee outside if you’re a man.Inside if you’re female… but please lock the door!
We arrived at Yannick’s gite in the heart of Ribeauville at about 5:30pm. It was dark outside, and we were still full from lunch, as well as a bit tired from the drive. Yannick came over to say hello, and we got to meet his adorable little son, Raphael, who is about 18 months old. During our last visit to Ribeauville, Yannick’s wife was in labor with little Raphael; he was born the night we departed during our last visit over Memorial Day weekend in 2018. He was very shy, but adorable. Yannick said he wasn’t used to hearing English, but after a couple of minutes, he went to work entertaining himself with the drawers full of wine corks. Yannick says his wife will be having another baby in May or June of this year; then their family will be complete. It was a real pleasure to finally meet Raphael. I have no doubt that he’ll be bilingual in no time.
We all went to the little Carrefour grocery store located about 100 yards from the gite and loaded up on wine, beer, chips, breakfast fixings, and chocolate. Parker took one of the upstairs bedrooms, and Bill and I took the usual back bedroom. Here are some photos from Riesling, which mostly looks the same as it did last time we stayed there, in November 2017. Yannick says he’s trying to upgrade, but he’s had trouble finding workmen who are available. All of his gites in the wine house are named after local wine specialties.
Generous sized kitchen with a bathroom with a shower off to the side.The second bathroom, which has a tub.And a handy toilet…Second toilet in the bathroom in the kitchen.The rainfall shower is nice, but there’s no door or curtain. Be prepared to squeegee.Yannick thoughtfully left the Christmas tree. He says he’s taking it down this weekend.Main bedroom on first floor.Living room area. You can watch Netflix or Amazon Prime on the TV. Don’t forget to log out.Upstairs room with twin beds.Upstairs king bed. Lights in the courtyard.
We like to stay at Yannick’s place, mostly because he’s very nice and loves dogs. But his place is also very convenient to Ribeauville, has access to free lot parking, and has most everything you’d need. It’s also reasonably priced, and Yannick makes checking in and checking out a breeze. You just access the lockbox, for which he sends a code before you arrive. It’s super easy and convenient. In fact, about an hour after we left, he texted me to see how we enjoyed our time. It was, indeed, a great time! Now… on with what we did in Alsace this time! Stay tuned for part three.
Sunday morning, we awoke to rainy skies and wind that made the shutters clatter against the gite. I am not a fan of walking around in rain, but when the skies finally cleared, Bill and I decided to head into town. Arran protested loudly when we tried to leave him alone, so we took him too. Au Miracle du Pain Doré is a very short walk from town, so we enjoyed a good stroll to Beaune’s center. A small Christmas market was going on, and we got to try salami and Bill tried cheese. I was tempted to get some of the salami, but Bill worried about how it would fare during our trip to Nimes. I think if the market is still going tomorrow, maybe we’ll pick some up.
Arran met a couple of dogs who appeared to be truffle hunters. The market actually had a small booth dedicated to truffles and they had pictures of the dogs they use to find them. I don’t get the appeal of truffles at all. I wish I did, since people who love them make them sound so good and worth the money. Unfortunately, most things fungal make me want to run away screaming.
Truffle dog!
Fresh oysters…
Sausage!
Sights and sounds of Beaune…
After we walked around, admiring the cheeses, homemade sausages, breads, and mulled wines, we noticed some stores were open, even though it was Sunday. Then, we ended up eating at what, according to Trip Advisor, might be one of Beaune’s worst restaurants. Fortunately, we had a good experience there. The weather wasn’t too bad, so we sat outside with Arran at La Concorde, which offers all meals at apparently most times.
This song was playing at the market. I first heard it on National Lampoon’s European Vacation circa 1985. 80s music was big last Sunday.
I was surprised to read the poor reviews of this restaurant. I had fish n’ chips and Bill had a burger with Epoisses cheese, and we shared a carafe of wine. The waiter was a bit slow to greet us, but he was charming and charmed by Arran. I think a lot of complaints seem to come from a three course deal they offer and confusion over the bill. We didn’t have a problem, although perhaps the prices were higher than they should have been. I was just glad Arran behaved and wasn’t freaking out about the other dog sitting at the table next to us. The French lady enjoying lunch, complete with escargots, was complaining about the bill.
Perusing La Concorde’s menu…
We found a wine…
And enjoyed a carafe.
It tasted of raspberries.
Pretty good fish n’chips with salad.
Bill’s burger with stinky French cheese.
It gets two stars on Trip Advisor, but I don’t think it’s so bad.
I even had chocolate mousse for dessert… Bill had rum and brioche.
Quite lovely! And the waiter brought Arran a cookie!
Wine…
everywhere…
in Beaune…
The front gate, which stays locked most of the time.
The front door to our gite.
One of many burgundies we’ve enjoyed…
At a stoplight, where no one punctured our tire.
Beaune gave us a parting rainbow.
Beaune is very cute, easy to walk, and has lots of food and retail shopping… and I think we’ll be back again, despite the asswipes at the rest stop who fucked up our tire. I noticed some wine stores I wanted to check out last week. Now that we are stranded, maybe we’ll drop in tomorrow… if they’re open this week, too.
Another discovery I made just now is that Aldi has partnered with Trader Joe’s, which I guess must be part of the Aldi group. We got cashews with the Trader Joe’s logo. If Trader Joe’s is in France, it would be worth it just to come back for that. I’m dying for some of their frozen “crack” n’ cheese, which is even better than mine is.
On Monday last week, we checked out of Beaune and made our way to Nimes… what this whole trip was about… to see my friend and “sista” Audra. But clearly, our adventures in Beaune are still going. More on that as the story evolves.
Bill and I are taking a road trip to France for Christmas. We’re bringing Arran with us, so we’ll be staying in self-catered places. My friend, Audra, lives in Nimes, and we’ll be seeing her and her family, as well as stopping in Beaune on the way there and back.
I wanted to pick up a few things on the installation at Hainerberg yesterday– stuff like supplies for wrapping Christmas presents and such, and a few groceries, since I felt like making a dessert I hadn’t had in years, a cherry cream cheese pie. So we took the Mini out of the garage and went to AAFES and the commissary. The Mini needed to be driven, since it gets less action thanks to the new car. We ran into one of Bill’s co-workers at the PX, while we were standing in line to pay. Then we picked up our stuff at the commissary, and headed into Wiesbaden for lunch.
I wasn’t in the mood to screw around as we looked for lunch. It took awhile to find a parking spot. It was impossible at our usual garage, which became “Besezt” as we were driving up and down looking for a free spot. We were successful at the next garage, at the Kurhaus. We had to park on the second floor, though, because that garage was also packed. I was a little worried that it would be hard to find a restaurant that wasn’t crowded, but I needn’t have fretted. Little Italy was wide open at about 1:30pm. Better yet, when we walked inside, were immediately recognized and warmly welcomed!
I was impressed by the waiter, who even remembered what Bill had the last time we were there. To put this into perspective, without looking it up on the blog, I don’t even know when we were last there! I guess it was a couple of months ago. Little Italy has become a favorite restaurant, though. The food never disappoints; the service is good and very friendly; and it’s not hard to get in and out of there. Here are some pictures from our lunch.
Waiting for wine…
They brought out complimentary tuna spread, which is delicious and usually goes with Vitello Tonnato.
Bill had Wolfbarsch filet, which is a German fish. It came with rosemary potatoes and vegetable.
I had salmon filet with a very interesting spinach pea side. I think I had this last time, too.
For dessert, Bill had chocolate souffle with ice cream.
I had tiramisu.
The most decorations we managed to see.
Goofy German ads…
Weird outfit on this lady. It looks like a couture track suit adorned with diamonds.
If you want to gamble, Wiesbaden is your place.
Last night’s project… cherry cream cheese pie.
Our lunch at Little Italy was nice and leisurely. At one point, they cranked up the music by mistake, and the older Germans that were in there with us started laughing. I’ve noticed that Germans seem to enjoy quirky, slapstick humor, and people who act like fools. I think it’s because the culture here is a lot more serious and uptight than American culture is. In many ways, I like it… but I do get a kick out of what they find funny.
Arran was happy to see us when we got home. After we let him out and fed him dinner, he went to lie down in the living room. Bill went upstairs for a moment, then came back downstairs looking a little pale. He said, “For a split second, I could have sworn I saw Arran upstairs, flitting past me, but he’s down here. So now I wonder if it was Zane.”
“So you think that was Zane’s ghost?” I asked.
“Yeah.” Bill nodded. “I guess he’s going to hang around until we find a new dog.”
We usually get new dogs within a month of losing one, but it’s easier to do that in the United States. There, people don’t hold it against us that we’re Americans affiliated with the military. We also don’t travel as much or as often there. We decided to wait on getting a new dog until after our road trip to France, since we’re going to need to take time breaking it in. To be honest, as much as I want another dog, I feel a little apprehensive about the process of getting one. I guess that when the time is right, the right dog will show up.
It’s always heartbreaking to look at Facebook memories at this time of year. In December 2009, Zane joined our family as a young dog. In December 2012, MacGregor was dying of cancer. Both are gone now, and they were both wonderful dogs. I miss them… and I don’t know how another dog will fill Zane’s pawprints. But I also know that I’ve never regretted a single dog we’ve taken in, and somehow they all manage to be wonderful in their own special ways. I much prefer dogs and other animals to most people, too. Pets love you for who you are and don’t screw you over.
Bill’s mom is coming here next month, so I don’t know how much searching we will do in January. I suspect we might have a new friend in the spring… We’ll see.
About six months ago, Bill and I moved from the Stuttgart area to Wiesbaden. We’ve lived in the Stuttgart area twice during our marriage– from 2007-09 and 2014-2018. It has the distinction of being the place where we’ve, so far, spent the most time during our married life, followed closely by the D.C. area. It’s starting to feel a little like home.
We wouldn’t ordinarily go to Stuttgart for a fun trip, especially since we just left there a few months ago. On the other hand, it’s absolutely possible to have a lot of fun in Stuttgart, especially if you know where to go. We needed to go down there for both business and pleasure.
On a whim, back in February 2018, I bought tickets to Elton John’s “Farewell Yellow Brick Road” concert, which took place last night at the Hans-Schleyer Halle in Bad Cannstatt. It was the first of a string of tickets I’ve bought for concerts in 2018 and 2019. I think I’m trying to make up for all of the years I didn’t have enough money to go to shows. That, and a lot of my favorite artists are retiring and this is the last chance to see them.
I was really looking forward to last night’s concert. Not only did I buy the tickets over a year ago, I actually had to wait a year to get them. Although I have loved Elton’s music ever since I was a tiny child many years ago, this was the first time I had ever seen him perform live. I’m glad we made it to the show. Last night, I was beginning to think it wasn’t going to happen. More on that later.
We also needed to go see Dr. Blair, dentist extraordinaire, to get our teeth cleaned. I know we should probably find a dentist in Wiesbaden, but we really like Dr. Blair. He’s the best dentist either of us have ever seen. Besides, there’s every chance we’ll one day wind up living near Stuttgart again.
I had a bunch of wine corks to unload to a lady in the food and wine group I run on Facebook. I always like to offer them to crafters before recycling them. I also wanted to buy some more rugs for our house with the brand new floors.
The spring fest was also going on, and while I’m probably getting too old for festing, we decided we’d try to hit that, too.
On Thursday, May 9th, we loaded up our two dogs, Zane and Arran, and took off for Stuttgart. On a good day, it takes about two and a half hours to get from Wiesbaden to Stuttgart. Thursday wasn’t a good day. The weather was crappy and there was a lot of traffic. It ended up taking us about four hours, and we were racing against the clock, because Max at Dog Holiday closes his doors at noon to have lunch. He’s pretty strict about time and Bill likes to be respectful of other people’s time, so he was getting pretty stressed out as we hit Stau after Stau. There’s a good reason Stuttgart is often referred to as “STAUgart. Traffic is often a nightmare there. I had forgotten how bad it is, even though we haven’t been gone that long.
I really haven’t missed this shit.
After we dropped off the dogs at Max’s, we headed for the Schwaben Galerie, the mall every American affiliated with the U.S. military gets to know intimately. We were hoping to find lunch before we went to Panzer to purchase our rugs. Once again, I was feeling whimsical as we decided where we were going to eat. I went to see if the pseudo Mexican restaurant “Chilli’s” was still there. I reviewed it once in 2016, right after it took over the space from the defunct Neuer Ochsen restaurant that was there for years prior. I had liked the Neuer Ochsen and was sad to see that it was supplanted by a pseudo German Mexican place. If I recall correctly, I didn’t hate our meal at Chilli’s, but it definitely wasn’t authentic Mexican food.
As I turned the corner, I noticed that Chilli’s was gone. In its place is a new sushi restaurant and grill called Mikomi. Bill and I love sushi, so we decided to stop in and see if the new place was any good.
I learned that this restaurant has only been open for about a month.
A very pleasant Asian lady invited us to sit down. I was taking note of the new decor in this restaurant space. It’s been interesting watching it go from the Neuer Ochsen to Chilli’s to now Mikomi. I like what they’ve done with it. There are lots of comfortable booths and the ambiance is calming.
I really liked the look of these booths. You could host a good sized party there.
They have regular tables, too.
Bill tries to figure out the menu. There were a lot of choices.
A young English speaking waiter explained the restaurant’s Bento Box deal, where you can get a main dish, two sides, a drink, and a dessert for a low price. Or, alternatively, you can order one of their sushi deals for an equally low price. I was really thirsty, so I ordered a beer. A small beer would have been included in the price of the Bento Box, but I ordered a large. I ended up drinking both. Bill went with a Japanese brew.
“Goldilocks and the three beers?”
I went with one of the sushi Bento Boxes. This was very satisfying. The salmon was especially fresh and tasty, as was the spicy tuna roll.
Bill’s Bento Box was a good deal. He got noodles with vegetables, pickled cucumbers and carrots, and shrimp skewers. I loved the noodles and had to steal a couple of bites.
After we finished, we were invited to partake of the dessert buffet. They had little cakes like this or fresh fruit. I also saw donuts.
All of this was priced pretty reasonably. I think we got out of there at under 30 euros.
I think Mikomi will be more successful than Chilli’s was. I didn’t hate Chilli’s as much as some Americans did, but I definitely didn’t need a second visit. Mikomi, on the other hand, I would dine at again, given the opportunity. I would recommend it to those who like Asian food– especially sushi.
After we finished having lunch, we went to Panzer and loaded up on new rugs for our house. Our new landlord just put in brand new floors, so we’re doing our best to keep them as nice as possible. Also, I like having rugs on the floors because they help cut down on echoes and are nicer to walk on than cold parquet. The Turkish guy who runs the carpet shop was playing Rabiz– a type of Turkish pop music. I was telling him about my adventures in Turkey and Bulgaria back in the 1990s, and how I had gotten used to hearing it in Armenia. He said I had been to more parts of Turkey than he has, probably because my trip took me through the east. The northeastern part of Turkey is truly some of the most beautiful scenery I have ever seen. It rivals Switzerland… or, at least it did in 1996. I’d love to go back to Turkey again someday, when it’s safe.
Once we dropped some euros on new rugs, we headed to our favorite Stuttgart area hotel, the Wald Hotel. More on that in my next post.
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