house hunting, Sundays

Ten things I learned on our first Abruzzo trip– 2025!

Yesterday, I finished writing the “blow by blow” blog series about our trip to Abruzzo in Italy. We went there to look around and see what the condition of the area is, and whether or not we might be able to live there, whether it be as vacationers, or as permanent residents. We also stopped for a couple of nights in the Lugano area of Switzerland and Colle Isarco, near the Austrian border. I like to wrap up my blog series with a top ten list of things I learned. So, here we go with my top ten list for this trip!

10. The word “mance” in Italian means tip or gratuity.
As a general rule, Italians aren’t all that big on tipping. When you go to a restaurant, they usually charge a coperto (cover charge) that amounts to 1 to 3 euros per person. When you settle the bill, you go to a cashier, rather than paying your server. That said, we saw evidence that some people do appreciate tips. When I spotted a jar by a register that read “Mance”, I figured it meant “tips”. I looked it up, and sure enough, I was right. Bill slipped the lady a ten euro note, which earned him a big, bright smile of appreciation. How refreshing!

9. There is an Eataly style AutoGrill near Parma that is pretty nice.
Back in 2008, Bill and I went to Italy together for the first time. It was his first time ever, and my first time since 1997. We stayed near Turin/Torino, which is where the big Italian food store “Eataly” was launched. Yes, we visited, and it was amazing, although we didn’t load up nearly enough. Since then, Eataly has grown by leaps and bounds. Now, if you travel on the Autostrada near Parma, you can enjoy an Eataly style meal. The stop is only eastbound, though. The westbound lane has a regular AutoGrill location.

8. Riposo or pennichella is still pretty serious in Abruzzo.
Riposo (mid afternoon break, perhaps more familiarly known as “siesta” to Americans) is a thing in a lot of Mediterranean countries, although some areas take it more seriously than others. I noticed when we were in Abruzzo, a lot of businesses and restaurants shut down at about 1:00 PM for riposo. They reopened at 3:00 or 4:00. It took some getting used to.

7. Pescara is a hectic, yet convenient, base city.
I had a hard time choosing where to stay in Abruzzo, since we were going down there to see little towns where houses might be for sale. I wound up choosing Pescara, which I found really hectic. We did get used to it somewhat, and it’s convenient to a lot of places in Abruzzo.

6. If you stay at the Relais Castello Morcote in Vico Morcote, Switzerland, you can visit a vineyard and get beautiful photos and views of Lake Lugano!
You can also buy some delicious wines that are from Switzerland.

5. The Centro Ovale in Switzerland, near the Italian border, is a cool looking building that is now defunct!
I don’t know how I never noticed that former shopping mall on previous trips to Italy. We’ve been through that border a few times, but this time was the first one I noticed the architectural wonder that took longer to build than it was actually open for business!

4. Campione d’Italia is an Italian exclave surrounded by Switzerland.
I had heard of Campione d’Italia before our trip because I happened to see a video about it on YouTube. I hadn’t necessarily planned to visit there, but when I noticed how close it was to our location in Switzerland, I decided we should check it out. I’m glad we did. It’s a very interesting place, with a mixture of Italian and Swiss features. It is, officially, Italy, but it is entirely physically separated from the rest of Italy by Switzerland. However, it doesn’t take long at all to get to mainland Italy from there. It’s easy to reach by car and bus, and it’s the home of Italy’s only casino (which is a huge eyesore)!

3. March is a nice time to visit Italy, although it’s still considered the “low season.”
Abruzzo has a lot to offer visitors. There’s the Adriatic Sea and the Appenine Mountains, as well as access to interesting Italian cities and the cool tiny country of San Marino, which I hope to visit sometime. But one thing I noticed that was nice was that there were no tourists around, and I didn’t hear any Americans! That might be because of where we were, but it’s probably also because it’s March!

2. We got stared at in the tiny towns we visited…
It was pretty obvious we were outsiders in Abruzzo. We’re both lacking olive complexions and dark hair and eyes. When we visited the cute town of Gissi, people stared at us with curiosity, rather than aggression or hostility. We were conspicuous. In another town, the reception from one local seemed a bit menacing, so we left. They probably pegged us as Germans.

And finally… 1. Vipiteno is a great place to visit on the way back to Germany…
Vipiteno is in Italy, but it used to be part of Austria. It feels like one is in Austria, even though one is in Italy. And it’s a really great place to buy souvenirs and eat good pizza. When I go to Italy, I like to go to grocery stores and load up on goodies as much as I like to shop for other stuff. We definitely did so on this trip, but Vipiteno was especially handy. They had a great gourmet store with lots of local delicacies. And, we also got to see some snow before we headed back home!

*Honorable mention that I almost forgot–
There are harness racing horses (pacers) trained in Abruzzo. I had no idea, and was shocked when we ran across people training them on a little used (but open) road! I didn’t see anyone riding horses, but I did see a couple of sulkies! As a horse lover, it was kind of a thrill for me. I miss having a horse, even just to pet and hang out with. I’d love to have some land with a donkey and a horse to spoil.

All in all, we had a really nice trip. I’m still not sure what the future will hold for us, but I’m glad we visited Abruzzo. It’s a very beautiful part of Italy, although I can see why they are eager to get some people to buy cheap property there. It’s fairly depressed and in need of some “new blood”. I liked it, though. Maybe we’ll have a chance to visit again!

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    adventure, house hunting

    Our first look at RURAL Italy… (part four)

    Tuesday morning, we had our first breakfast at the B&B. Carlo’s wife, Francesca, brought out cheese, cold cuts, slice bread, butter, water, coffee, and “cornettos” (basically Italian style croissants). I don’t enjoy the Italy version as much as I do the French and Belgian, because the Italian version is less buttery. But the cornettos are probably marginally healthier. They gave us plain ones and ones with marmalade.

    After breakfast, we decided to drive to Gissi (pronounced Gee-see), a little hilltop hamlet I had noticed offered some inexpensive homes for sale. As I mentioned before, we weren’t looking at any specific properties. We were just in Abruzzo to look around and assess whether or not we’d want to buy property there.

    On the way out of the neighborhood, we encountered two guys driving a horse. That was something I don’t see everyday, so I got a photo…

    Little did we know, the above horse photo wouldn’t be the only one I’d be taking. The GPS sent us to a rural road where there was a traffic jam. We soon realized that there was a guy there trying to hitch a horse to a “sulky”, which is a type of “chariot” type vehicle used for harness racing. I didn’t know it before our visit to Abruzzo, but apparently, they train horses for harness racing there. Pretty country abounds…

    Once we got past the horses, we found ourselves in some extremely beautiful scenery…

    As we drove up a hillside, we saw the outskirts of Gissi, which turned out to be a beautiful little town. I could see myself living there and liking it, as long as we found the right property. There’s a big free parking lot in the middle of town.

    Unfortunately, when it came time for lunch, we couldn’t find anything open. I suspect that it was because it was early March. Bill and I went to a Tigros Market (grocery store) and bought snacks. The market was very small, but had the essentials on two floors. It wasn’t ideal, but it got the job done for me, as my blood sugar suddenly bottomed out.

    After we walked around Gissi, we decided to move on to Vasto, which is a beautiful city by the coast. I also really liked Vasto, and could see myself living there. It’s much bigger than Gissi is, of course, and offers restaurants and services. However, it’s important to note that siesta is still very much a thing in that part of Italy and others. Most everything shuts down at about 1:00 PM and stays closed for a couple of hours.

    We were fortunate enough to find a restaurant, 12 Cantin, that was open for lunch in Vasto. They were playing music, which alerted us to their lunchtime availability. We were fortunate to find this eatery, as the food was excellent, and the service was very friendly. The waiter even gave me a hug when we were leaving! I had sea bream with vegetables and Bill had tuna. We probably should have had more courses.

    We walked around a little bit more in Vasto. I got some more photos, and we lucked into an open public restroom that was even somewhat clean. Then, as the afternoon got later, we headed back to Pescara. We stopped to pick up some wine and snacks, and then decided we were in for the night. Again, after driving around all day, we weren’t really feeling like driving for dinner… and the B&B was not nearly any place we could walk to with ease… I think we will probably add Gissi and Vasto to our list of places where we might like to see properties. Both had their own unique charms, in different ways…

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