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Staycation in Stuttgart #2…

Those who know me well, know that I am a music fanatic.  I like all kinds of music, but I don’t often attend concerts, mainly because I don’t like crowds or traffic jams.  I did make an exception for Sting, though.  In November of last year, when I was feeling especially blue and a bit weakened by depression, I decided to buy a couple of ticket’s to last night’s Sting concert which took place at the Porsche Arena in Stuttgart.

I paid a bundle for the tickets because I was a bit late to the game.  The only ones available were from “fan to fan” sales, which meant the price was a bit jacked up.  However, we did have great seats.  We were in row six, seats ten and eleven.  In fact, I was very surprised by how intimate the venue was.  I was expecting an enormous arena, but it wasn’t that big at all.  They didn’t even have those huge television monitors you often see at big name acts.  I will write more about last night’s excellent show in a later post.  It deserves its own commentary.  Suffice to say that Sting is still going strong at 65!  If I hadn’t been listening to him since the early 80s, I would think he was at least 20 years younger than he is.

Last summer, Bill and I saw Van Morrison play during the annual jazz open festival.  Because we live rather far from Stuttgart and traffic here is legendarily horrible, we decided to stay in a hotel downtown.  We had such a good experience at the Wald Hotel in Degerloch last July, we decided to stay there again for the Sting concert.  I booked us for two nights in a superior room.  Bill wanted to try the hotel’s restaurant, Finch, which we knew we wouldn’t have a chance to try on the night of the show.  Yes, it’s a hotel restaurant, but it has an interesting (and expensive) menu.  We made a 7:30 reservation for our first night at the hotel.

Our dogs, Zane and Arran, have spent two days hanging out with Max at Dog Holiday and will be coming home later today.  I’ve had the chance to earn my keep by doing some basic housekeeping.  Now I’m ready to write.

Stuttgart is not a bad city to visit… even if you’re kind of a local.

 

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Sunday brunch at Felix in downtown Stuttgart…

The main entrance at Felix.  We had to walk 3/4 of the way around the building to get to it.

 

As I was searching for a place to eat dinner last night, I came upon an OpenTable listing for a place called Felix, located in downtown Stuttgart (near the Cinemax-Liederhalle complex).  I noticed that the restaurant was notable for its Sunday brunch, which offers all you care to eat at 16,50 euros a person.  The price includes orange juice, coffee (including coffee drinks), or tea.  I asked Bill if he was interested in trying it out.  He said, “Sure!”  So I made reservations for 11:00am.

We were still riding high after yesterday’s successful Mexican food experience in Fellbach.  I was looking forward to trying brunch, since that’s not a meal we usually do.  We also usually save buffets for when we are on a cruise ship or at a hotel.  In retrospect, maybe it would have been better to find a place that didn’t have a buffet, since Bill and I rarely eat enough to justify the cost.

To get to Felix from where we live, we basically had to drive as if we were heading to Robinson Barracks.  Then, just as the houses start to look fancy and Victorian, you hang a right and head downhill into the city.  Unlike our experience last night at El Mero Mexicano, we had no problems finding parking.  There are several good sized garages nearby, as well as parking spots on the side of the road.

We arrived at the restaurant on time and told the lady who greeted us that we had a reservation.  She directed us to the nearest four top with a reserved sign on it and invited us to sit down.  A waitress came by and asked us if we wanted coffee, tea, or cappuccino.  We both had cappuccinos.  Then she left and we sat there for a few minutes, wondering what to do.  You see, Felix does have a regular menu and I wasn’t sure if she was going to ask us if we wanted to eat off of that or do the buffet.  But since she didn’t come back, we defaulted to the buffet.

Obligatory shot of Bill.  He’s looking a little Squidwardish…

I had a pretty good view of the buffet from where I was sitting, but I was more impressed by the attractive looking bar.

To be honest, Felix’s buffet wasn’t particularly special.  They had croissants, rolls, sliced bread, and pretzels.  They had Weisswurst with sweet mustard, bacon, scrambled eggs, and French toast.  Several different types of cold cuts and cheeses were laid out, as well as smoked salmon.  There was an orange juice station.  Several types of cereal were offered.  I didn’t see any fresh fruit, which would have been nice, nor was there any other kind of juice or sparkling wine.  Not that I necessarily would have expected sparkling wine for what they were charging.  Edited to add:  Bill said there was a bowl of fresh melon over by the yogurt, but it was almost gone the first time we went through the line.

This is what I got on my first trip through…  French toast, a boiled egg, a croissant, smoked salmon, and a couple of slices of sausage.  

And this was my tiny cappuccino, half of which was foam.  It was rather disappointing.   I am pretty sure this was made entirely by a pre-programmed machine. 

Bill was good and got himself some cheese…

 

After we ate what was on our plates, we sat and talked for awhile.  I was very aware of how noisy it was in the restaurant.  It seemed to be a popular place for students.  There was a group of young women sitting near us who were having some sort of sales party– think Mary Kay or Scentsy.  They were talking and giggling loudly the whole time we were there, seeming to have a good time.

I also noticed some high pitched shrieking from the other side of the dining room.  There was a family with three young children, one of whom seemed to be very upset and was yelling at the top of his lungs.  The other two kids were making the usual piercing sounds young children usually make.

It’s not that I was necessarily expecting it to be quiet, or even that I would expect young children or young women to be sit still and be quiet.  I’m only mentioning the noise level for those who wonder what the ambiance might be like.  It’s not the kind of place where you’d necessarily enjoy quiet conversation or romance.  My very neurotic, artistic, older sister, for example, would probably not enjoy Felix for many reasons, including the fact that it’s loud.  However, people who aren’t looking for quiet and calm will probably like Felix’s atmosphere just fine.

I seem to remember someone on Facebook asking about buffet etiquette in Germany.  In the United States, there are often signs telling patrons that they should use new plates when they go to the buffet.  At Felix, I did not see any such signs, but the waitress did take our dirty plates and invited us to get new ones if we went through again… which I did.

I decided to try the Weisswurst and a pretzel.  I couldn’t eat the pretzel, so I brought it home.  The Weisswurst with the sweet mustard was probably the best part of the meal.  It was very fresh and tasted good… But I know not everyone likes wurst that fresh.

All in all, our experience at Felix wasn’t terrible, but it wasn’t particularly memorable or special.  The food was okay, but I probably wouldn’t make a special trip back there for brunch.  I wouldn’t mind trying the regular menu, though, and we did notice that a couple who came in after us ordering food off the menu rather than doing the buffet.

Patrons can pay with cash or credit card.  Our bill was 33 euros.

So… my initial impression of Felix is that it’s a somewhat pleasant and reasonably priced place to eat, but overall, our experience was decidedly mediocre.  I’d probably give it three stars out of five.  I did like the bar area, though, and would probably rate higher if we’d gone there for drinks.  The patio area looked especially nice for when the weather improves.

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A leisurely lunch at Cube in downtown Stuttgart!

Once again, I’d like to wish my readers a Happy New Year.  Bill and I have been chomping at the bit to get out and try a different restaurant.  We finally managed it today when we took advantage of the holiday and had lunch downtown.

Some time ago, I told Bill about Cube, a very nice restaurant at the top of the Stuttgart Art Museum.  For the past few weeks, he’s been trying to get a reservation.  He finally managed to get one for lunch today at noon.  We were the first patrons to arrive and the dining room was completely empty when we checked in.  Minutes after we sat down, people started filing in and I noticed that quite a few tables around us had “reserved” signs on them.  Cube is very popular at dinner time, but apparently it pays to make reservations for lunch, too.

A lovely Piedmont Barolo for lunch…  The bread was very fresh!

 

Our server spoke excellent English and offered us a menu in German or English.  I told her either was fine, so she gave us an English menu.  I noticed there were weekly specials available, a set menu, and a la carte items, as well as a very extensive wine list.  Bill and I both decided to order a la carte.

It had just started snowing when we sat down.  One of Cube’s biggest draws, besides the very creatively prepared food, is the tremendous view of the Schlossplatz in Stuttgart.

 

I was really enjoying the smooth jazz music piped into the airy dining room.  It might have been turned up a bit loud for some tastes, but they were playing some pretty good songs.  I even heard interesting jazz remakes of songs by New Order and Hall and Oates (which may date me a bit).

Bill checks out the wine list.  He selected a nice bottle from the Piedmont region of Italy.

And a good sniff…

 

I was intrigued by the spicy Thai soup which came with lemongrass, chicken, ginger, and snowpeas.  Unfortunately, the menu did not mention that it was garnished with mushrooms, which I cannot eat.  Bill had ordered the soup of the day, which was white bean.  We traded starters.  He ate the Thai soup, which he said was very good, but slightly hard to manage because of the large and very fresh snowpeas.  I enjoyed the creamy white bean soup, which was very velvety and smooth and appeared to be garnished with wilted violet petals.

This is the bean soup, priced at about 6 euros.  I thought I got a shot of the Thai soup, but I’m not finding it on my phone.  Pity, because it was almost ten euros.

Cube offers a lot of nice looking salads and we saw several pass us on the way to other diners.  Bill and I went for heartier fare.

My duck leg, served with red cabbage, potato pancakes, and bilberry sauce.  The bilberry sauce was interesting.  It was kind of like a cross between blueberries and cranberries.  I really liked the potato pancakes.  The duck was so tender it was falling off the bone, although it was a bit rich.

Bill had the beef stroganoff, which seemed to have a Swabian flair with spaetzle, pickles, and beet.  There was a dollop of cream on top.  The beef was very tender and expertly cooked.  I even tried some myself, since there were no mushrooms in it.  

The whole time we were dining, the server maintained control of our wine, keeping it at the bar behind us and attentively pouring it.  Toward the end of our lunch, she got busy and we had to remind her to let us finish!  I’ll say one thing for Cube.  It’s good to go there if you have plenty of time to enjoy your meal.  We spent well over 90 minutes having lunch, although we had three courses and wine.

I had wanted the chocolate creme brulee, but they were out of it.  So I settled for the “lukewarm chocolate cake with berries”.  Bill said, “I bet it’s a lava cake.”  He turned out to be pretty much correct.  It was a nice dessert, though.  Beautifully presented and tasty… even if I don’t love lava cakes.

Bill went with fig ice cream with plums.

 

Total damage for our lunch was 110 euros before the tip.  Cube offers free WiFi for smartphones and tablets, but they ask patrons not to use laptops in the restaurant.  All in all, we had a very nice lunch at Cube, although I wouldn’t say it’s a particularly intimate place to dine.  The dining room is very open.  I liked that the tables were not very close together, though.

I wouldn’t mind going back to Cube for dinner sometime.  The food is very good and the service is quite competent.  Now I want to try Cube’s sister restaurants, like Pier 51.  Word to the wise.  I have read that Cube is not air conditioned, so it may be best to plan you visit when the weather is cooler.

After lunch, we headed back to the parking garage by way of this awesome food store called Feinkost Böhm.  As God is my witness, I had never seen this place before, despite my many trips to downtown Stuttgart over the past year.

This place is a haven for upscale food shoppers and sushi lovers…

You could have a ball in here, as long as you bring plenty of cash.

They have mushroom butter and lemon butter…

And lots of milks…

Chocolate of all sorts…

And a very impressive (and expensive) wine selection, complete with someone there to help you pick something out. 

Got cheese?

And coffee, although they didn’t have my precious Peet’s…  😉

Lots of fish, though it appeared to be mostly stuff you can easily find in Germany.  There’s also a sushi bar.

And you can even get Pepperidge Farm cookies, although you will pay much more for them than you would at the commissary.

Nice looking meats…

Oils, vinegars, and olives…

And a generous produce section.

 

Although I was a little tempted to pick up a few things, we didn’t end up buying anything today.  However, I can see us bringing some bags and doing a shopping run at some point in the future when we feel especially indulgent.  I’d like to try the sushi bar at the very least.  It’s been ages since I’ve had any.

We had a very nice afternoon in Stuttgart and will need to have another lunch date again sometime when we have the chance.

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Celebrating 14 years in Ireland! Part two

On the morning of November 11th, we dropped off Zane and Arran at Dog Holiday.  Zane and Arran have stayed at this dog hotel several times and always have a good experience there.  I had left some medication for the dogs, along with peanut butter to help them take it.  At first, Max the proprietor didn’t want to use the peanut butter because he says it’s too messy and full of sugar.  I will admit I got a little pissy, mainly because I use peanut butter that is all natural and contains nothing but peanuts.  Whitley’s Peanuts in my hometown of Gloucester, Virginia sells amazing products that are very high quality.  Max was under the impression that I was giving my dogs Peter Pan or Jif.  No way!

I was on edge as we were leaving Stuttgart.  Zane just had surgery to remove a mast cell tumor.  I hadn’t been expecting the news that his lump had been cancerous, so I was upset.  Having someone imply that I feed my dogs junk didn’t sit right with me, but I’m sure Max meant well.

Having dropped off the dogs, Bill and I made our way to the airport.  We were there very early for our flight to Munich, which was set to leave at 12:50pm.  We did the self-check in at a kiosk, which sort of confused us because I think it might have been for people who weren’t checking luggage.  Because I booked business class, Bill and I were entitled to check two bags each at no extra charge.  We had planned to check one bag each, but I decided I’d rather not lug around the bag I usually use as a carry on, since the only thing in it I would need was an iPad.  It turned out to be a good decision to check three bags between us.

The very helpful Lufthansa agent pointed us to a dedicated security line for first and business class passengers, as well as the Lufthansa Lounge.  Since I was a bit hungry and we were in no hurry, we decided to stop for something to eat before we went through security.

Salmon tapas and a croissant!

 

We had a quick bite at the Italian cafe in Terminal 2, which I paired with some prosecco.  The salmon and shrimp salad was great for boosting my blood sugar a bit.

The priority security lane…  there was even a red carpet there!

 

Even though our security line was supposed to be “priority”, it was crowded.  It took some time to get through the process, made slightly more annoying because I was having trouble understanding instructions.  One of the agents said something to me that I couldn’t quite hear.  Even if I could hear it, I wouldn’t have necessarily understood it.  I finally said, “Sorry, I’m American.”  She switched to English and I finally got what I was supposed to do.  A sharp eyed agent spotted that my car key fob had fallen out of my purse.  When I went to claim it, he asked if I was sure it was mine.  I was sure, especially since it was apparent that no one else in the security line drove a Mini Cooper.

Once we got through security, we made our way to Stuttgart Airport’s Lufthansa business class lounge.  The lounge is actually in two parts.  There’s the Senate Lounge, which I guess is for very high priority passengers with first class tickets or many Lufthansa miles.  And there’s the Business Lounge, which is for business class passengers and fewer Lufthansa miles.  This was the first time either Bill or I have ever accessed the Business Lounge for any airline, so it was a new experience for us.  To access the lounge, show the agent your ticket.  It will be scanned and you can then go in and enjoy peace, quiet, comfortable seating, food, and drinks.  The lounge offers light snacks, including fruit, soup, and salads, as well as what looked like Chex mix.  They also have wine, beer, whiskey, schnapps, soda, water, coffee and tea.  It’s all included in the price of your ticket, so you can help yourself.

WiFi is free in the lounge and easy to access.  There are also computer desks, free newspapers, and a couple of TVs tuned to the news.  There’s a bathroom right outside the lounge that is clean and quiet.  You can even charge your phone up there without even entering the lounge.  That’s handy information for anyone who’s running low on juice and can’t find an electrical outlet.  I must admit, it was a pleasure to spend our time in the lounge.  It was probably one of the nicest of the business class “perks” we enjoyed on our flights to Dublin.

Bill enjoys an Italian red wine while he reads the paper in Lufthansa’s lounge.

 

I had been a little apprehensive about out flight to Munich, since I wasn’t able to pre-select our seats.  I needn’t have worried, though.  Bill and I were given seats 1A and 2A.  Although I’m sure no one would have minded had Bill sat next to me, another Lufthansa perk is that the seat next to you stays empty.  Since there were only two seats to a side of each row, he was seated behind me instead of next to me.

“Free space”

Peek a boo!

Our flight from Stuttgart to Munich was running late, but it was only scheduled to be only thirty minutes, anyway.  Nevertheless, I was very impressed by the service on that particular flight.  The flight attendants were excellent, not just to the four of us in “business class”, but to everyone on the flight.

We were even served meals, though I opted not to eat mine.  This was Bill’s meal.  Note the real silverware and plates.  He said the food was pretty good.  As for me, I enjoyed two beers in thirty minutes.  They were small ones, though– 25 ml. each.

 

We landed in Munich and had just enough time to rush to passport control, where there was a pretty good sized line.  Actually, we got there just in time, since the line got much longer minutes after we arrived.  The passport agent asked me if I had a European passport after she noted how long I’ve been in Germany.  I mentioned SOFA; she found the card; and we were on our way.

Our flight to Dublin was set to last about two hours.  The one thing about that flight that I liked was that we had a separate entrance that served the six of us sitting in business class.  Other than that, I can’t say the business class experience from Munich to Dublin was that special.

We were served a meal not long after takeoff.  This was a light chicken and shrimp salad with mango.  It was surprisingly good for airplane food.  There was also a berry crumble, hot roll, and Swiss chocolate.  I usually don’t eat airplane food, but I did eat some of this.  I think the people in economy class got sandwiches.

 

Not long after we were served our meal, some guy toward the back of the plane had a medical problem.  The flight attendants asked for a doctor.  I’m not sure if anyone was able to help; but whatever the problem was, it was evidently handled onboard.  I think in the course of helping the person with the medical issue, the lavatory in economy was temporarily blocked.  Consequently, lots of people from economy class were using the lavatory in business class.  Technically, they weren’t supposed to do that, but the flight attendants did nothing about it.

I know it sounds snobby for me to mention this; I mention it only because some people will be reading this actually wanting to know about business class service and I want to give full disclosure for those who care.  In any case, because of all of the people coming up to business class to use the toilet, it wasn’t as peaceful and quiet as it could have been on our flight.  I know this wasn’t necessarily a usual thing, since at the beginning of the flight, a man seated in economy asked if he could use the business class lavatory before he sat down.  The flight attendant directed him to use the toilet in the back.  Later, I saw him up front standing in line for the lavatory like everyone else.

Another issue I had that made our business class experience less special was the fact that I was sitting in the last row in business class.  Some guy with long legs was sitting behind me and he kept sticking his feet under my seat and kicking my feet.  Even the free middle seat between us was a little annoying, since there is a place to put drinks there that is fixed.  You can’t raise the arms on the seat or necessarily stretch out much.

Fortunately, since we were at the front of the plane, we were able to exit quickly once we landed in Dublin.  Our bags were among the first to arrive in baggage claim.  And within minutes of our arrival, some guy came up to me and apparently assumed I was a local.  I think he was speaking Irish to me, though, because I didn’t understand him.

With the flights behind us, I was eager to get to the hotel and rest.  It had been a long day and I was tired and hungry.  Off we went to the taxi stand, where we met our first local.  More on that in part 3.

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Wine bar! And our very first visit to the Block House…

Yesterday, Bill and I visited the dentist in downtown Stuttgart for our biannual cleanings.  As is our habit, after we visited the dentist, we hung around downtown for dinner.  I was unusually stressed yesterday, but the truth is, for months I’d been wanting to try a certain wine bar near the Markthalle.  Die Weinhandlung Kreis is a small wine shop, but you can also go there to taste wines and enjoy snacks.  We’d passed by the place so many times and I wanted to go in to see what it was about, but every time I paused by the door, Bill convinced me to move onward.  Yesterday, I was determined to finally try the place.  And frankly, after my dental cleaning and the huge Stau that preceded it, I was in need of a soothing red for my jangled nerves!

Die Weinhandlung Kreis near the Schillerplatz in downtown Stuttgart is a very small place, but they have wines and local spirits.  Yesterday, I noticed they were selling Chartreuse and Monkey 47 Gin, which is a gin made here in Baden Württemberg.  We discovered Monkey 47 Gin when we visited Hamburg in January 2015 and since then, we’ve enjoyed it ourselves.  My German sucks, but I can see from Die Weinhandlung Kreis’s Web site that this little wine bar is just one address affiliated with Die Weinhandlung Kreis.  They have a main shop in Stuttgart South, as well as an online store.  They even have a vineyard.  I can tell that Bill and I are going to have to get to know this business better.

Anyway, the lady who was running the shop yesterday wasn’t super friendly, but she was quick to get Bill and me a couple of large glasses of vino.  I tried a lovely Gigondas that was very nice in the late afternoon.  Bill had a Spanish red that had almost a menthol tinge to it.  It was very interesting.  They were playing cool jazzy music on vinyl in the cozy tasting room.  Had we not had plans to visit the Block House afterward, we might have tried a snack to go with the wine.  They had quite a few reds and whites available, as well as at least one sparkling wine.  We will definitely be back.

Ahh… red wine in the afternoon.  You can get a small or large glass.  I went with a large.

Bill sporting his new sporty goatee as he enjoys a red.  On the wall, you can see a list of what was available yesterday.  

Tiny bar.  Sorry this picture is a bit blurry.  I was trying not to be conspicuous.  Behind the turntable is a blurry list of snacks.  We ended up buying a bottle each of the reds we tried.  It’s worth mentioning that this wine bar takes credit cards– even the ones from America! 

 

I felt a bit more relaxed after the wine and my stomach told me it was time for dinner.  I had been wanting to try the Block House chain restaurant in Stuttgart for some time.  Now that I have, I can write a review.  Later, I will write a post detailing all of our local steakhouse experiences.

I saw this on the way to the Block House and thought it was nifty.  It was in front of a shoe store.  

I also noticed this coffee shop right next to the Block House location on Eberhardstraße.  They sell cups of coffee, but they also sell beans.  We may have to pay them a visit, so maybe I won’t need to spend 40 euros in duty taxes plus $40 in shipping for Peet’s again!

The first thing to know about the Block House is that there it’s a chain restaurant.  There are 47 Block House restaurants, 38 of which are in Germany.  Two of those 38 locations are in Stuttgart.  In that way, Block House is not unlike Maredo, another German steakhouse chain that has two locations in Stuttgart.  Curiously, the two Stuttgart area Maredo locations are practically within sight of each other.

The next thing to know about the Block House is that it runs all day.  There is no pause between lunch and dinner.  This is a very fine thing.  We were able to visit the restaurant yesterday before it got super busy.  Indeed, it was somewhat chill when we arrived at 5:00pm and was pretty full by the time we left a couple of hours later.

Bill anticipates a good hunk of meat.  He said the restaurant reminds him of an American place.  I agreed.  In fact, they were even playing early 80s pop music, which I kind of dug.

 

Block House is a very casual place.  We were invited to sit where we wanted.  When we sat down and the waiter realized we weren’t German, he asked if we needed menus in English.  Of course we said no!  Bill likes to show off his mad skills… which unfortunately, I am still trying to develop.

We started with a very nice bottle of Malbec, along with San Pellegrino.  I ordered the Hereford Rib Eye, while Bill went with a Filet.  Both dishes came with salads and Block House bread, as well as a potato or pommes.

 

As we were sitting there soaking up the atmosphere, Bill got a strange look on his face.  I asked him what was the matter, and then it became obvious.  The waiter put my salad in front of me and it was loaded with huge sliced mushrooms.  I took in a quick gasp of surprise and horror because I have a phobia of mushrooms.  Fortunately, Bill was kind enough to take them out of my salad.

 

Next time, I’ll know to tell them to hold the fungus!

The steaks were very good.  I was able to ask them to hold the sour cream and got butter instead.  I could have also had garlic butter.  My rib eye was about 250 grams and cooked to a perfect medium temperature.  The bread appeared to be a bun sliced, buttered, topped with garlic salt, and toasted.  It was pretty good, if not a bit generic.

Bill’s filet and sour cream covered potato.

 

We decided to have dessert.  It turned out to be a treat.  Those of you who love lava cakes will be happy to know you can get one at Block House.  I have an aversion to lava cakes, so I went with the New York Cheesecake, which came with a lovely warm blueberry sauce.

This was pretty damn delicious!  I am a sucker for cheesecake, even if I don’t eat cold, stinky cheese!

Bill had the Eis und Heiß, vanilla ice cream with a warm berry sauce.  He enjoyed it very much.

 

The bill came to about 82 euros before the tip.  While it wasn’t the best steak I’ve had in Stuttgart, I will say that we did enjoy our visit to Block House and would go again.  And now that I’ve finally tried the Block House, perhaps it’s time to write a comparison of all the steaks we’ve had here so far.  Stay tuned!

The outside of one of Stuttgart’s two Block House locations.

 

This is the end of my restaurant review.  Stop reading if you have delicate sensibilities about sex.

On the way back to the car, we passed Dr. Mueller’s Sex Shop.  I have never actually been inside the place, but this particular chain store has the distinction of being one of my most vivid memories of my first visit to Germany in 1997.  I came here on the way home from Yerevan, Armenia and two years as a Peace Corps Volunteer.  The Frankfurt Airport, at that time, had a couple of Dr. Mueller’s locations within it.  I remember being shocked as I passed it.  So, in honor of that memory, I decided to snap a few photos of the location in downtown Stuttgart.  Maybe someday, we’ll venture inside.

Looks pretty tasteful to me.

 

Tune in next time for whatever crap I discover next.

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The quest for housing in Stuttgart…

One hopes to find decent housing upon arrival in Germany… Stairwell living is like going to the dogs… (just kidding!)

 

I always get tickled when I see newcomers posting in our local Facebook groups, looking for housing ahead of time.  I definitely understand why they do what they do.  The prospect of looking for housing in a foreign country is daunting.  No one wants to live in a hotel for weeks on end, especially if there are kids or pets in the mix.  Bill and I have now moved to Germany twice and, both times, we spent weeks living in temporary quarters with two beagles (different ones each time).  I know how much that can suck.

In the fall of 2007, we lived at the Vaihinger Hof for about six weeks.  I’m not sure if the Vaihinger Hof is still operating.  The one thing it had going for it, besides extreme pet friendliness and tolerance, was that it was very close to Patch.  I also liked the people who were running it, although it was a very no frills hotel and not very clean.

The reason we were at the Vaihinger Hof, and not a military hotel, is that the military hotels were all booked solid.  This was before the Panzer Hotel existed; it was being built as we were leaving.  There were three smaller hotels on Robinson, Patch, and Kelley, and all three were full.  We might have preferred the Marriott in Sindelfingen and, in fact, we spent our first night there.  But all they had available were the executive rooms, which were way more expensive than what we could afford.

In 2007, many of the housing units on the four installations in Stuttgart were being renovated.  There was absolutely no prayer that we would be living in a “stairwell apartment”.  So we started looking for a home to rent.  We put our faith in the housing office, which at the time, had a rather bad reputation.  I will stress that we were helped by the housing office and did find our first home in Germany through them– actually very quickly, if I recall correctly.  What kept us in the hotel for weeks was waiting for the landlord to get it ready for us.  He and his ex wife had gotten divorced, so he had many years of memories to sort through and relocate.  He also had to repaint the house before we could move in.  So we lived in the hotel, and tried many of the restaurants in downtown Vaihingen, because we had no kitchen facilities to speak of at the Vaihinger Hof.

Still, the Vaihinger Hof was a lot better than this place…

 

When we finally did move into our home in Pfäffingen, it was pretty far away from all the installations.  It turned out to be great for us, though, because we don’t have kids, and my husband doesn’t mind commuting.  I’m sure for other people who come to the Stuttgart area, the prospect of trying to find affordable housing close to work and school and with all the things Americans love in housing seems very difficult.  So they try to get a jump on it before they get here.

I won’t lie.  Finding a good house within your budget can be difficult and worrisome.  It’s a rite of passage we all go through.

I just want to say “I get it” to those in America who are stressing over housing in Germany, and trying to house hunt from the States.  I did the same thing both times.  Both times, we ended up living in rather obscure towns well outside of the American hot spots.  The first time, my husband ended up paying slightly more than the housing allowance he got from the Army.  The second time, in 2014, we found a less expensive place.  What we pay is well under what his company gives him for housing.  But again, we don’t have kids, and we don’t live close to the American action.  Actually, I kind of like it that way.

When we moved back here in 2014, we spent one week in a German hotel and then found a temporary apartment, where we stayed for three weeks until we could move into our current home.  We found both our house in Jettingen and the temporary apartment on Stuttgart Bookoo.  But, once you get here, you find that houses can be found in a variety of places.  In some ways, it’s a lot easier finding a home now than it was in 2007.  Facebook is a huge help.

When newcomers post in the local Facebook groups about finding housing, there’s often a tinge of eagerness, nervousness, and/or even a little bit of panic.  Although I know this advice is hard to hear and even harder to heed, I would NOT recommend trying to find a house before you get here.  The reason for that is that most decent houses get scarfed up very quickly.  This is a place where people are constantly coming and going, so rental housing availability varies on a daily basis.  There’s no sense in whetting your appetite for food you may never get to taste, right?  Also, if you’re military, there is a very real chance that you won’t get to live on the economy anyway, although again, the availability of government housing changes daily.

The most I would do is look for neighborhoods and communities you would be interested in seeing.  Don’t look at specific houses with a mind to rent them, though you might check out what they look like as a means of deciding what to bring with you.  Study the area and decide what you must have in order to be happy.  But, even as you do that, realize that you may very well end up somewhere else.  We did both times, and both times it turned out better than fine.

Don’t worry… your new home, whether on base or on the economy, will look better than this.

 

When people tell you that you might not be able to live off the installations, understand that they really are telling the truth.  If you are here with the military and housing is available, you’ll have to take it, make a very convincing case for why you can’t take it, or pay out of pocket for your housing off base.  Of course, some of the people telling you about this requirement may simply be slightly embittered because they live in stairwell housing and don’t like it.  On the other hand, other people actually seek housing in stairwells or move there against their will and end up loving it anyway.

Really, our community is mostly very friendly!  The people telling you not to get your hopes up about living on the economy are not “crushing your head” by telling you that you might have to live in a stairwell!

There are some advantages to stairwell living.  It’s close and convenient to all things American.  The commute is fairly easy.  It may be easier to make local friends.  You don’t have to worry about idiosyncrasies of German life, like dealing with landlords and neighbors who don’t speak English.  Of course, living in stairwells also means sharing walls, losing privacy, and communal living among people who may not share your sense of community pride.  But you can take heart in remembering that nothing is forever.  Even if your housing situation sucks, it’s only temporary.

The advice I would give to newcomers is to try not to stress too much about housing.  You really can’t control it too much from afar.  German landlords are usually fairly choosy, and they will want to meet you and your family before they rent to you.  Also, even if you look from afar, as we tend to do in the United States, you won’t get the best idea of what the neighborhood is like.  Bill and I made the mistake of looking from afar when we moved from Fort Bragg to Fort Sam Houston.  We visited the neighborhood, but weren’t able to see inside the house ahead of time and, instead, relied on pictures.  We were too eager to get out of the hotel and spent a year in a house we hated.  Fortunately, it was only for a year.  I will not make that mistake again (and hopefully I won’t have to, now that Bill is retired).

Instead of focusing on the house hunt, focus more on what you’ll be bringing and leaving behind.  Consider that German houses often lack closets and do not have open floor plans.  Kitchens tend to be small and the electric current is 220 rather than 110.  I would recommend stocking up on dual voltage electronics and consider leaving 110 appliances in the States.  Ditto to bulky furniture.  Rooms in German homes are usually smaller and may not accommodate your big couch or television.  We do have two king sized beds in our house.  In fact, king beds may even be easier than queens, since they have split box springs.  Bear in mind that your staircase may be spiral and your doorways could be narrow.  And don’t forget to bring your seasonal stuff if that’s important to you.  The first time we lived here, we forgot our Christmas decorations.  I now have two trees and decorations for both.  When we leave, I suspect one or both of our fake trees will be left behind.

Well, that’s about it for my take on looking for a home in Germany.  Don’t worry.  You’ll find somewhere to live, and chances are good that it’ll end up being just great.  Or, at least it will be habitable for as long as you’re enjoying STAUgart!  Welcome to the community and enjoy Germany!

*The photos above were taken when I was a Peace Corps Volunteer in the Republic of Armenia from 1995-97.  The buildings pictured were in the city of Gyumri, which was hit by a terrible earthquake on December 7, 1988.  As you can see, the buildings were still in a shambles in 1996 and ’97, when those photos were taken.  I have not been back to Armenia yet, but I’m thinking it’s looking better now.  

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booze tourism

Booze! A guide to wine shops in the Stuttgart area of Germany…

Hello folks.  Every once in awhile, I like to write posts that are comparative in nature.  Recently, I’ve had the opportunity to try out a few wine stores near us and I thought it might be interesting to write about the pros and cons of each.

Naturally, you can always buy wine on post (if you have access and/or purchasing privileges) or at your favorite grocery store like Edeka, Aldi, or Real.  Those locations are givens.  I wanted to highlight stores that specifically focus on wine.  I’ve written about each place before, so I will link to my first posts about them so those who are interested can read about my first impressions.

Vinum!  Our favorite wine store.

Probably my all time favorite wine store in the area is Vinum in Tübingen.  I will admit that I mostly like that store for sentimental reasons.  We used to shop there all the time when we lived in Germany the first time.  I still like to go there and will go out of my way to visit for several reasons.  First off, they have a great selection of wines.  It’s not a huge store, but there are plenty of wines to choose from and quite a few are available for tasting.  They also have wine on tap and, as long as you have a bottle (you can buy one there if you want), you can load up on cheap, good quality wines.

Secondly, Vinum offers more than just wine.  They have a small selection of gourmet foods.  They also sell exotic beers and fine liquors and liqueurs, as well as nice booze related gifts.  Their staff is very helpful and speak English.  Sometimes they host events on the weekends for wines and spirits.  I also think their building is very cool.  It reminds me of a cave.  Bill and I have shopped there extensively, both times we’ve lived in Germany, so we’re very familiar with the store.  In fact, it may be time to pay them another visit soon.

Inside the Alte Brennerei in Herrenberg.

In second place, I think I’d put Alte Brennerei, a wine store Bill and I discovered just a couple of weeks ago in Herrenberg.  Alte Brennerei is a fairly small store in comparison to Vinum, but the proprietor is very friendly, speaks great English, and offers a good variety of wines.  She also has a small selection of gourmet items, though not as many as Vinum does, and will offer to do tastings for small groups.  She doesn’t have a wide range of liquors available or wines on tap, but she does have plenty of whiskys.  Since Bill and I like scotch, we like Alte Brennerei.  A bonus is that right across the street is a cheese shop and right next door is the adorable Lamm Gasthof, a great place for a bite to eat.

Jacques’ Wein Depot in Ludwigsburg.

In third place, I’d choose Jacques’ Wein Depot, a chain wine store that has locations all over Germany.  One advantage to visiting the Wein Depot is that there are a lot of convenient locations.  This store also allows patrons to try almost every wine they sell.

The reason I put Jacques Wein Depot in third place is because when we visited, the salespeople did not seem all that interested in helping us.  This is not such a big deal to us, since we pretty much know what we like.  It could be a problem for less experienced wine drinkers.  Also, I did not get the impression that the guys who were working at the Wein Depot spoke English.  Again, not a huge deal, but potentially less helpful for English speakers who don’t know what they like.

I also think the Wein Depot lacks the charm of of Vinum and Alte Brennerei, stores that have a personal touch.  Jacques’ Wein Depot is a chain; as such, it lacks a certain mysticism.  However, I did think the wines were probably better priced at Wein Depot as opposed to the other two stores.  Generally speaking, that is the advantage of visiting a chain store over an individual location.

Vom Fass.

Likewise, Vom Fass, another chain wine store is kind of similar to Jacques’ Wein Depot.  Although we visited one when we went to Ulm in August, I haven’t yet really had a chance to write a review of one.  Vom Fass also has several locations near Stuttgart and elsewhere in Germany.  It seems to be more of an all purpose store, offering wines, vinegars, oils, and other gourmet items.  Jacques’ Wein Depot, by contrast, appears to be all about the wine.

Wein Kreis in Stuttgart.

There are definitely other stores in the area we haven’t tried yet.  For example, there’s a wine store/ wine bar in Stuttgart we have yet to visit.  It’s right next to the Markthalle, though, and we usually load up on wines when we visit the Markthalle.  Next time we visit Dr. Blair, which should be next week for a cleaning, we will have to stop by the Wein Kreis store in Stuttgart and try it out.  I will definitely update then.

The lovely thing about living in Germany is that there’s always a place to buy great wine for not much money.  You don’t have to visit a wine store to find something good, though it sure can be fun shopping in one!  This weekend, I hope to find a few more wines when we visit France!

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Uncategorized

Friday festing!

Yesterday afternoon, Bill and I went to the Cannstatter Volksfest for the first time since 2007.  The Cannstatter Volksfest is a pretty big deal.  I have heard it is the second largest fall fest in Germany behind Oktoberfest in Munich.  This year, the Volksfest runs from September 23rd until October 9th.

The first time we experienced the Volksfest was just days after our arrival in Germany.  Bill’s office at EUCOM had reserved a table.  We were brand new and knew no one.  I remember going to the tent and sitting among a huge crowd of people, many of whom were much younger than I was.  The band played fun songs that they never seemed to finish.  I distinctly remember hearing them play “So Lonely” by The Police several times, but they only seemed to know the chorus.  I also remember a bunch of young guys, maybe 17 or 18 years old, with bras on their heads.  They hit on me, even though I was old enough to be their mother.  I think they had their beer goggles strapped on pretty tight!

This time, Bill and I went with people who work with him at AFRICOM.  Instead of attending at night, we went at 11:00am.  I was surprised by how much emptier the tent was.  I was also surprised to see so many people dressed in proper Bavarian attire.  Lots of guys were wearing lederhosen.  Lots of women, myself included, wore dirndls.  I did not get any pictures of myself yesterday, which is probably a good thing.  By the time we were finished festing, I’d had four Maßkrugs of beer and was definitely in no shape for photos.  Our tickets, included four drinks and a meal.  Maybe next time, I’ll stick with apple schorle.

Anyway, I did take a lot of pictures and got some video, which I will probably turn into a YouTube movie.  Here are some of the highlights of yesterday’s festivities!

At 11:00am, the food stands and rides were pretty idle.

 
 
 

White horses in front of the Dinckelacker tent.  We didn’t realize there was a guy with a camera taking official photos until he told us to vamoose.

 
 

Black horses in front of the Schwaben Bräu tent, which is where we enjoyed our afternoon.

Obligatory shot of Bill.  He promises me he’s going to shave this weekend.

 

Bill was one of the few in our group who didn’t dress up.  He did wear his Saint Obnoxious t-shirt, though.  For those who don’t speak German, it reads “Life is too short to drink shitty beer.”

 

At one point, an older German lady came up behind Bill slowly and read his t-shirt.  She had on a sequined turquoise and white dress and wore lots of make up.  I didn’t quite catch what she said to Bill, but I could tell she liked the shirt.  Meanwhile, I got stopped by a young German man who wanted to know why Americans like Germany so much.  I don’t remember what I told him, but I do remember kissing him.  I thought it was the only way he was going to let me get back to the table.

The tent after we’d been sitting there awhile.

I got a big kick out of this sports team near us.  They were having a blast!  All of them had nicknames on their backs.

The band broke into a rousing rendition of “Looking for Freedom”, a song made famous in 1989 by David Hasselhoff.  As you can see, the lead singer dressed the part!  I got footage of this performance that I will probably put on the Internet for all to see.  ETA:  Here’s the video.

 

David Hasselhoff sings the famous original.

There was much dancing and singing.

There was so much beer!  I drank four of these and paid for it later.

And yes, there was delicious, fresh, roasted chicken with bread… Germans sure do chicken right!  

A good time was had by all! 

 

All in all, I think I like the midday festing better.  It was a lot less crowded and chaotic.  There was never a wait for the ladies room.  Believe me, after four big beers, I sure needed a potty with no line.  I dozed off on the train ride home  and got my dirndl stuck in the car door, which earned me a gentle chastising from a German lady.  But, aside from being a little tired this morning, I’m not too much worse for wear.  The new dirndl is headed for the cleaners and I’ll put it away until the spring fest!

There are a couple of things I did that turned out to be smart.  I brought an extra pair of comfortable shoes to wear on the train ride home.  I also brought a shawl, which serve to keep me warm and covered up an unfortunate spill on my blouse.  I only wish I’d remembered to buy a hat this time!

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Uncategorized

Stuttgarter Weindorf 2016!

Despite Bill’s and my love for wine, before yesterday, we had never made it to the annual Stuttgart Weindorf.  This is an event that has been going on for the past forty years, celebrating Stuttgart’s long history of winemaking.  I was determined to get there this year, especially since I knew Bill had a business trip coming up and my Sunday is bound to be dull.  Though it was pretty hot and very sunny yesterday, we managed to haul ourselves up off the futon and drive to the Herrenberg train station.  We parked the car there and took an uneventful 45 minute ride to the Stadtmitte stop.

Over the past year, Bill and I have gotten very well acquainted with downtown Stuttgart, thanks to my dental implant drama.  Despite that, Bill wasn’t completely sure of the event’s location.  He needn’t have worried.  It was very easy to find the fest, which was in the Schillerplatz, right next to the Markthalle.  Unlike last week’s wine fest in Ulm, the one in Stuttgart didn’t consist of a big area full of tables from different wineries.  Instead, it was more like a bunch of restaurants brought their own temporary buildings!  We left Zane and Arran at home this time, too.

You can walk up and get your wine… 

There were plenty of places to sit yesterday.  The fest was well attended, but not super crowded.  Many booths were offering hearty Swabian fare.  There was plenty of maltaschen, lentils, wurst, potato salad and cabbage.  To be honest, it was so warm yesterday that I was kind of more in the mood for something light.  But I was most in the mood for wine!  We finally settled at a place close to one of the entrances.

Bearded Bill checks out the menu…

I got an obligatory shot of him.

Then I took another because he claims he doesn’t photograph well.  I’m sure his mother will appreciate this.

 

Before too long, a handsome young man in tight leather shorts and a red checked shirt came over to see what our selections were.  Since it was so hot, we both ordered white wines.  I started with a crisp local sauvignon blanc.  Bill had a local riesling.  I was smart enough to order water, too… hoping to keep any lingering effects of the wine to a minimum today.

I had Cannstatter sausages with potato salad.  This was pretty good, though the sausages reminded me a little of Slim Jims.  They might have been a little overcooked.  It was a bit heavy, though, and I only managed about half.

Bill had a pulled pork salad.  He raved about the pulled pork, which tasted like it was prepared with vinegar.  It had a bit of a sweet essence to it.  Bill was able to eat the whole thing and pronounced it delicious!

Pretty soon, it was time for round two.  I decided to go “on the Offensive”…  Have a look at the wine list below to see what I mean.  😉

Bill tried the “Defensive”… it was a very nice red.  Actually, I liked his red more than my white.  The Offensive was not offensive enough for me.

I take a lot of pictures of Bill when I drink wine.  He’s kind of photo bombing this one, though.  I wanted to get a shot of his Defensive wine, which was really nice.  I might have to look for this one and take it home sometime.

The not so offensive Offensive.

 

Our location offered the perfect opportunity to people watch.  We saw one newly married couple drive past in a convertible with flowers on the hood.  We saw many hen and stag parties, including one stag party that had the groom to be dressed in a blonde wig and sporting a dirndl.  We heard a lot of drunken singing, too.  I was tempted to join in.

I tried a rose, which I almost never do.  This was light, fruity, and dry…  Very refreshing on such a hot day.  My favorite wine yesterday was the sauvignon blanc.  

At about this point, I noticed an awesome yellow labrador retriever sitting across the way…

 

I pointed out the chilled out dog to Bill, who then said “Hey!  I know that dog!”  Bill took a closer look and noticed that the table where the dog was sitting was full of his co-workers.  So Bill went over to say hello, while I finished wine #3…

All of the glasses were inscribed…

A duo showed up and started playing music.  One played accordion and the other played guitar.  I was really into it, especially when they launched into an odd version of “Major Tom”.  If you were around in the 80s, you might remember it.  Here’s the German version.  Imagine it being played on guitar and accordion.

Props to those musicians for their creativity.

 

We finally called for the check and the handsome waiter in the leather shorts came back over to take our money.  We ran up quite a nice sized bill.  I think it was about 85 euros.  My friends will be glad to know that I was the one who said it was time to pay.

I was very tempted to go into this wine bar, but Bill managed to pry me away.

The clock was chiming as I took this photo.

We took the train home, where Bill found a message from his co-workers.  They were still partying and hoped we’d join them!  Maybe next year!  I might even be tempted to don a dirndl next year.

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Baden-Württemberg

Dinner at Ristorante da Maurizio in Stuttgart

Yesterday, Bill and I visited Dr. Blair for the last time (I hope) concerning my new dental implant.  The next time we see him will be for cleanings in October, unless there’s some kind of catastrophe between now and then.  I will miss the frequent shopping and eating opportunities visiting Dr. Blair gives us, but I’m glad the implant process is finally finished and I’m thrilled with the results.  It’s great to have a full smile again.

After my appointment, we were a bit hungry.  We stopped at the Markthalle to pick up some eggs, fruit, and bread.  Then we made our way back to the car to drop off the goodies we purchased.  Since that put us close to Dr. Blair’s office again, we decided to find a restaurant on Calwer Strasse.  It was hot and we were thirsty.  I was tempted to hit a biergarten, but then I spotted Ristorante da Maurizio (now called Aria) with an empty outdoor area.  I had been pretty curious about the place over the months I’ve had to go to Stuttgart, but we never stopped there to eat.  Since it was just about dinner time, we read the menu posted on the outside of the restaurant and decided to have a seat outdoors.

One of the reasons I was curious about Ristorante da Maurizio is because besides being a restaurant, it’s billed as a wine bar.  To me, it felt more like a regular restaurant with a full and impressive menu.  The words “wine bar” might just be a gimmick, for all I know.  Maybe next time we visit, it’ll be cold outside and we can venture inside to try out the “wine bar”.

We decided to go with a shared appetizer and a couple of the weekly specials.  Maurizio offers a little something for everyone, though.  There are pizzas, pasta dishes, fish, and meat dishes available.  The weekly specials are also offered in three or four courses, which gives a slight price break to people who are especially hungry.  The “sea menu” was priced slightly less than the “earth menu”.  We weren’t hungry enough to go for three courses.

Bill checks out the menu.  At this point, we were the only ones sitting outside.

Bill obliges me with a smile.  I think he was reacting to a trio of annoying girls who were sitting outside at the health food restaurant next to us.  They were smoking, being loud, and I suspected they were making fun of us.  They also left without cleaning up after themselves.   We ended up paying for their negligence. 

Glad I took the opportunity to take this picture of the outside.  The tables quickly filled up.  More than half of them were reserved.

Bill ordered a lovely bottle of white from the Piemonte.  It was tart and citrusy, which we knew would go well with the seafood dishes we ordered.  

A nice basket of bread.  The breadsticks arrived hot and fresh and were very tasty.

We shared this first course, delicious sun roasted tomatoes, with avocado slices, toasted pine nuts, and olives.  On top is a mound of mild and creamy burrata cheese.  I usually dislike cold cheeses, but I had tried burrata at Ostaria da Gino’s in Nagold and loved it.  Burrata means butter in Italian and I do love my butter, though the cheese doesn’t necessarily make me think of it.  Burrata cheese is like very soft, creamy mozzarella and spreads kind of like room temperature butter.  There was a time when I might have turned my nose up at this dish, but I really enjoyed it yesterday.  I especially loved the tomatoes, which were very sweet and tangy.

The dishes left by the annoying girls sitting next door ended up causing a ruckus when a very aggressive pigeon discovered them a few minutes later.

The pigeon helped itself to their leftovers… I noticed a couple of staffers at the Italian restaurant getting annoyed.

Look in the sky and you’ll see another pigeon homing in…

Soon there were two of them… then three…

And finally, there were five pigeons feasting on the girls’ leftovers and making a big mess!  I can see why my former German neighbors from last time we lived here called pigeons “rats from the sky”!

The folks running the healthy restaurant were oblivious.  I finally encouraged Bill to go move the dishes to the cabinet of trays behind the table.  Quoting Dr. Phil, I said “This situation needs a hero.” Being a civic minded individual, Bill got up and moved a couple of bowls just as the guy running the frozen yogurt stand across the street went into the restaurant to tell the employees to come clean up the mess.  A young girl who looked very much “over it” came out and finished the job.  It was only mildly embarrassing for everyone involved.  

After some time spent chilling out with our white wine, our main courses arrived.  I had fried perch (zander filet) with sliced peaches.  There was a little bit of mint under the fish and peaches which gave the dish a refreshing zest.  The fish was served with cooked bok choy, spinach, a sliced carrot, and potato.  The whole thing was accompanied by a lovely white wine sauce.  I really enjoyed this dish because of the peaches and mint combination.  They were definitely the star attraction.  Without them, this would have been a somewhat ordinary dish. 

Bill had a simple course of tortellini stuffed with mild cheese and sea bass (Wolfbarsch).  It was also served with a sauce flavored with white wine and light cream.  I tried his pasta and I think I liked it as much as I did my dish.   Bill’s pasta was priced significantly less than my fish was; I think it was about 15 euros while my main course was 23 euros.   

 

By the time we were finished eating, it was a little after 7:00pm.  The terrace was almost full of diners and we were a bit hot, full, and tired of sitting.  Of the tree Italian restaurants we’ve tried on Calwer Strasse, I think Maurizio is now my favorite.  The dishes were all presented beautifully and tasted good.  Table service was very attentive with one handsome waiter rushing over to pour me some wine when I grabbed the bottle from the wine bucket.

The only negative I can think of is that smoking is allowed and the tables outside are close together.  Another couple sat next to us and it felt like we were all sitting at the same table even though we were both at “two tops”.  That’s not necessarily a bad thing if everyone’s friendly, but it felt a little awkward last night.  We paid about 83 euros for this meal and we’d probably do it again, though next time I will find a seat further from the health food restaurant next door.  Wouldn’t want to get dive bombed by a crew of aggressive pigeons.

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