Tag Archives: excellent restaurants

Baden-Württemberg

Pushing beyond my comfort zone at Reiskorn in Stuttgart!

Calling all vegans, vegetarians, gluten free and Asian fusion lovers!  Are you finding it hard to find good restaurants in the Stuttgart area?  Well, this review is especially for you… although meat eaters may also appreciate it.  Today’s restaurant review is of Reiskorn, a restaurant Bill and I tried for the first time last night after I booked it on OpenTable.de.  I discovered Reiskorn a couple of weeks ago, while looking at the list of OpenTable restaurants in the Stuttgart area.

OpenTable is an online restaurant reservation service.  I started using it in 2002, months before Bill and I got married.  He wanted me to find a place for us to celebrate my 30th birthday in Washington, DC.  I ended up picking Kinkead’s, a famous but now defunct seafood restaurant downtown.  I’ve been using OpenTable ever since then.  I even used it when we lived in Germany the first time, though back then, Stuttgart only had two or three restaurants using the service.  I’m happy to say that there are now hundreds of OpenTable restaurants in Stuttgart, which makes getting reservations very easy.  Of course, it also leads to me finding new places to have dinner!  So far this week, we’ve used OpenTable three times to make dinner reservations.

I will admit that I chose Reiskorn in part because of reviews on OpenTable, as well as the photos of the food and their “Sommergarten” which, as far as I could tell, wasn’t open last night.  The place was described as serving “Asian fusion” food, as well as vegan, vegetarian, and gluten free dishes.  I was so intrigued by the beautiful photos that I showed them to Bill, who was definitely up for trying the place.  I made a reservation for 8:00pm last night, but somehow got the time wrong and we showed up at 7:00pm instead.

Reiskorn is located in downtown Stuttgart, very close to The Block House, another place we need to try.

The first thing to know about Reiskorn is that it’s a small restaurant.  The dining room consists of a single room with low tables and chairs.  There are several large tables that serve multiple parties and only a couple of tables for two.  When we arrived last night, the service was in full swing and it was pretty crowded, as well as very loud.  But a very cute and petite German lady with long brown hair very kindly found us a spot at a long table for four facing the street outside.  We shared it with two other ladies, who paid no attention to us.

Reiskorn specializes in Asian inspired cuisine, but Asia is a big continent and they put their own spin on their food.  So it’s not a Thai or Vietnamese restaurant per se, though you might find Thai or Vietnamese inspired dishes on the menu.  Likewise, you might find hummus or falafel, also foods from Asian countries.

When we sat down, our waitress asked us whether we wanted German or English menus.  We said we could read German, but she gave us English menus anyway.  Actually, I was okay with that, since there are a few foods that I really don’t like.  Mushrooms, which are often found in Asian foods, are at the top of that list!  Fortunately, we didn’t have any fungal surprises last night.

I also noticed that the restaurant’s drink menu was inspired by sustainable and “bio” friendly sources.  They had some very creative cocktails as well as non-alcoholic fruit and mint waters and juices.  Bill and I both drank natural hefeweizens made by Franziskaner, but I was tempted by some of the more unique choices.  I saw a lot of people drinking water with crushed oranges and mint.  I kind of wish I’d tried that last night.

We started off with this fabulous Thai inspired appetizer for two.  There were coconut chicken strips, chicken satay, shrimp rolls, vegetable rolls, and seafood “sacks” (tasted like shrimp).  The appetizer came with three housemade dips, including some killer peanut sauce.  

 

I loved our appetizer so much.  I was especially impressed by the chicken, which was very tender, juicy, and flavorful.  I could have ordered just this and been very happy.  Bill was reluctant to order it because he worried it was too big, but it turned out to be the perfect size for us.  But then, we came into the restaurant hungry.

A profile shot of Bill.  This was pretty much the only way I could do it because we were kind of cramped in our corner.

 

It was awhile before our main courses came.  I have read that service is rather leisurely at Reiskorn, though it was crowded enough last night that I didn’t get the sense the servers were slacking off.  In any case, I recommend relaxing and enjoying the vibe.  We also took the opportunity to use the restrooms, which are as tiny as the rest of the restaurant is.  I ended up having to wait for two ladies ahead of me, which killed some time.

I took a photo of the view from where we were sitting.  It was actually an interesting place to sit because you can easily watch life unfolding for passersby.  At one point, an ambulance showed up to help some elderly guy and we saw plenty of folks from every walk of life getting on with their day, some of whom stopped to check out the restaurant or gawk at us while we ate.  It was also fun watching groups of people enjoy the outside tables at the bar next door.  

My main course was a vegan, gluten free, low carb dish: falafel with a tomato coconut mango sauce.  It came with a seasonal salad that had a very tasty dressing.  I was almost able to finish the main course, though I only managed a little of the salad.  I’ve had a lot of falafel that I didn’t like much because it was too dry.  This falafel was excellent, especially with the delightful sauce and bits of mango.  It’s not often that I really enjoy something supposedly so good for me.  I’d like to try vegan food more often.

Bill had chicken strips in red curry with colorful seasonal vegetables, rice, and lemon grass.  His dish had some kick to it, though Bill described it as tangy and somewhat mild.  The dish was very “Thai” inspired, with coconut milk and lime juice.  I preferred my falafel and I think Bill did too.  He said next time, he’d order that, although he liked the chicken as well.  

As the sun set and it got dark outside, I was suddenly glad we got to the restaurant an hour early.  It was almost nine o’clock when we ordered dessert… yet another vegan creation…

Bill and I split this fabulous vegan, gluten free, and lactose free lemon pie.   The crust was made of chickpeas, but I never would have guessed it.  The pie was lemon and coconut creme, topped with a caramel creme.  I actually would not have guessed it was topped with caramel, but regardless, it was delicious.  And we didn’t feel stuffed when were finished.

 

Total bill for last night’s meal was about 56 euros.  Aside from being the most interesting of the three meals we ate this week, it was also by far the least expensive.

Bill and I really enjoyed the food at Reiskorn.  We also liked the funky decor, which looked like it was outfitted by Novica, one of my favorite cash drains.  One thing I didn’t like as much was the noise and the rather crowded dining room.  On the other hand, the fact that Reiskorn is so popular is a sign that it’s a good place.  I can see why people like Reiskorn and if we lived closer to Stuttgart, we’d probably end up being regulars, despite the crowds.

I think Reiskorn has something for everyone, but I would especially recommend it to people who have special dietary needs.  There are plenty of meat free, gluten free, and milk free options for those who require it.  And we thought the prices were very reasonable.  Needless to say, Reiskorn gets my vote!

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A heavenly meal at Gasthof Krone in Waldenbuch…

For some reason, last night I got a bee in my bonnet and decided I wanted to try a bunch of fine dining restaurants in the coming week.  I went on OpenTable.de and reserved tables at three different restaurants in the Stuttgart area.  Tonight’s pick was Gasthof Krone in lovely Waldenbuch.

Although we have heard a lot about Waldenbuch and even visited there last fall when we had breakfast at the Ritter Sport Cafe, this was only our second ever visit to the town.  We never went to Waldenbuch at all when we were here the first time (07-09), though we did know a family that moved there after we’d all spent several weeks living at the Vaihinger Hof.  I remember hearing about how much they liked Waldenbuch and that definitely made me want to visit.

To be honest, I picked Gasthof Krone because it got good ratings on OpenTable and it had plenty of availability for tonight.  I did not know when I booked that the restaurant has a Michelin Star, though I did notice that the menu is a bit pricey.  Nevertheless, Bill was game, so we enjoyed the scenic drive on an unfamiliar route from Jettingen through Herrenberg to Waldenbuch.

Parking was easy tonight.  We just parked outside a closed business.  I also noticed a bank across the street from the restaurant.  That was a significant observation.

The outside of the Gasthof Krone, close to the front door.

I actually wanted to get a shot of the unusual sculpture.  My German friend says it’s called “Der Geldscheisser“.  Some people may be more interested in the bank location…

Outside menu.

 

A kind lady greeted us when we arrived at the already bustling restaurant just before our 7:00pm reservation.  I could see the place is very popular with locals.  I highly recommend reservations, which are easy to arrange through OpenTable.de.  Every table was taken tonight and, though it was an expensive meal, it was worth every euro.  Our server started speaking German to us, but graciously switched to English after asking if we preferred it.  Her English was impeccable and she patiently told us what everything was as she served each course.

Bill checks out the menu while I try not to be too conspicuous with my camera.

 

The same waitress who greeted us offered an aperitif.  Though they had several sparkling wines and Champagnes by the glass, I decided to have a locally made sekt that turned out to be very good.  Bill had a refreshing sparkling apple cider.

The three kinds of bread were delicious.  It was served with a small dish of olive oil and a quark and horseradish spread that was surprisingly good, even for me.  I usually look sideways at stuff like quark.  I especially loved the bread, though.  I could tell it was going to be a good night by how good the bread was.

 

Bill ordered a delicious red wine from southern France, his favorite wine region.  It was the 2014 Petit Taurau.  I will have to look for it locally, because it was really lovely and would be the perfect antidote for a bad day.  It had a marvelous bouquet and bold, jammy, spicy flavors.

The amuse.  We had a small shot of a hot soup made with curry and seasonal fruits.  That was surprisingly tasty.  Then we had a sliver of salmon on a dollop of mayonnaise and topped with something pickled that reminded me a little of ginger, but wasn’t.  Finally, there was a cauliflower mousse with a mild soft cheese and plum jelly…  My favorite of the three, by far, was the soup.  I could have eaten a whole bowl and walked out happy.

My starter was fabulous!  It was very fresh tuna topped with a huge phyllo wrapped shrimp.  Little bits of sashimi surrounded it with dots of avocado and mango and bright green roe, which gave the dish a festive appeal.  This was very pricey at 18 euros, but it was definitely not an insubstantial dish.

Bill’s consomme, which was made with chicken stock, chicken, and bits of enoki mushrooms.  I didn’t try it because I think mushrooms suck.  Bill loved it, though.  The chicken stock was served in a tea kettle and poured over the chicken and mushrooms.

My main course was monkfish with risotto, green and white asparagus, and white garlic.  It was delicious and very fresh, but quite filling.  I especially loved the asparagus, which is in season now.  The risotto was absolutely perfect.

Bill had lambchops with a carrot, dumplings, and carrot puree.  I tried his lamb, which I don’t usually enjoy.  It was extremely tender and had a lovely flavor.  Not too gamey!

 

As we were eating, the last available table, which was right next to ours, was occupied.  I wouldn’t normally mention it, but the two guys who sat next to us appeared to be deaf.  They were using sign language throughout the meal.  I noticed that the wait staff seemed to know them and spoke slowly so they could read lips.

Naturally, all the water, wine and bubbly I had made me need to use the ladies room more than once.  I mention this for those who might want to book a table at Gasthof Krone.  There is a flight of stairs to climb in order to get to the bathrooms.  The stairs appear to be very old and may present a challenge for those who have mobility issues.  Also, the ladies room had a couple of unexpected steps that could trip up someone not paying attention.

For dessert, Bill enjoyed what I deemed the perfect sweet fix for a woman with PMS.  It was chocolate cake with salted caramel ice cream.  Curiously, the dish also included two small red beet discs.  Bill isn’t a beet fan and said they didn’t do anything for the dish other than add to the color.  Other than that, his dessert was a real winner.

I had cheesecake with red currant sorbet, vanilla cream, and rhubarb.  I enjoyed my dessert very much, but I must admit I liked Bill’s better.  There were two other tempting desserts available, either of which I am sure I would have loved.  They also had sorbet.

 

Those who want to get really fancy can enjoy a tasting menu of up to six courses for 70+ euros a person.  I think that would have put me over the edge of comfort!  But we did notice several large groups enjoying a tasting menu.  There were also a couple of very young kids in the restaurant, though the menu is definitely NOT kid friendly.  They do have selections for vegetarians, though to be honest, I didn’t pay much attention to the vegetarian menu.  😉

The service at Gasthof Krone was outstanding.  Never once did we have to pour our own wine or water and every piece of silverware was meticulously replaced with each course.  The servers worked hard, but were not stressed or rushed.  They seemed to take a lot of pride in making sure everything was just right.  I also noticed the waitress tasting wines before she served them, which is a very smart thing to do, if only because it helps avoid embarrassment and probably gets her through the more difficult evenings…

Candies that came with the bill…  On the bill, it said they only take EC debit cards or cash.  When Bill mentioned it to the waitress, she admitted they could handle credit cards, but clearly preferred not to.  Our bill was 182 euros before the tip.  Had we needed to, we probably could have found an ATM at the bank across the street.  Next time we go, we will bring plenty of cash.  And there probably WILL be a next time.  This was one very nice meal and while it was expensive, we’ve spent more money elsewhere in the Stuttgart area.

 

Gasthof Krone’s chef, Patrick Giboin, is leaving on June 30th.  His post will be assumed by Erik Metzger on July 1st.  The restaurant has a terrace that is open when the weather is nice. 

 

All in all, we had a wonderful dinner at Gasthof Krone.  The food is sophisticated and very creatively prepared and presented.  I would recommend it for a date night or a special occasion, but be sure to make reservations and carry plenty of cash if you don’t have an EC card.  You can use a credit card there, but I could see that they’d rather you didn’t.

Gasthof Krone looks like before it was a fancy eatery, there were probably many schnitzels served there.  The interior has the look of a small town gasthaus.  Though some people were wearing smart casual clothes, others were dressed in jeans.  However, the food and service are definitely many notches above what I’d expect at my neighborhood gasthaus.  It really is a first class place to have a meal.  Highly recommended!

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Baden-Württemberg, Tübingen

Fabulous date night in Tübingen!

Please note: Refugio is now closed as of 2023.  Hotel La Casa is still open.

Bill and I decided to go out to dinner tonight.  We made the decision yesterday, after we couldn’t get a table at our favorite local haunt in Nagold, Osteria da Gino.  I wanted some really nice food and good wine and I wanted to try a different place other than our usual favorite restaurants.  I finally turned to OpenTable.de, where I spotted an interesting listing for a restaurant in Tübingen called Refugio at La Casa.  Refugio is actually a hotel restaurant, which made me a bit wary.  Hotel restaurants can be hit or miss.  When I noticed that Refugio at La Casa got mostly good reviews and had a look at their menu, I decided to book us a 6:30pm reservation.

We arrived at the hotel just a little bit early after lucking into a parking spot directly outside the front door.  When we walked through the revolving door, a very proper receptionist was standing at the ready to greet us, as if she was expecting us.  She probably was, since there were no other restaurant patrons until about an hour later.  Hotel La Casa is located in a residential part of Tübingen.  Though we used to live near the city, tonight was the first time we ever ventured in the southern residential area.  We noticed a parking garage near the hotel.  I’m not sure if it’s public or private.  Limited street parking is around the hotel as well.

Hotel La Casa’s front door.

After helping us with our coats, the lady sent us with a sommelier to our table.  I was immediately impressed by how beautifully decorated the dining room was, with its Spanish and Moroccan accents.  Whoever decorated the lobby, restaurant, and bar has good taste!  There are lots of tables with colorful, scattered throw pillows and exotic light fixtures.  The hand railings are made of brass.  The steps leading into the sunken dining room are covered with some type of silvery metal that I thought was striking.  La Casa is family owned and operated and opened in 2008, which was during the time we were living here the first time.

We were seated at a four top next to a small marble fountain that peacefully dripped water droplets that blended in with the Muzak.  I don’t usually like Muzak very much, but I must admit that I got a kick out of what was playing in the restaurant… lots of hits from the 70s, everything from “The Logical Song” by Supertramp to “Time” by The Alan Parson’s Project.  The sommelier helped me into a very comfortable chair and offered us an aperitif.  I asked for a glass of sekt.  Bill ordered spruedel (mineral water with gas) and asked for the wine list.  Meanwhile, they brought us some wonderful bread with olive oil, salt, and butter.

Bill checks out the menu.

 

The bread was delicious.  Very fresh!  Went well with the sekt, which was semi-sweet, but not too cloying.


Very good local red…

I ventured to the ladies room while Bill chose a wine to go with our dinner.  The waiter, a young, friendly lad who spoke excellent English, helped Bill pick a local red.  In the past, we were a bit wary of German wines.  I’m pleased to announce that the waiter’s suggestion was outstanding.

Then he brought out a very impressive amuse.  I don’t usually like beets much, but this little teaser from the kitchen was excellent, with its cauliflower mousse and perfectly grilled prawn…  The waiter told us that Refugio Chef Jonas Oest has a lot of creative ideas and that’s why they were so glad to get to work with him.

 

At first, I thought the cauliflower mousse might be potato with lots of garlic.  Then I realized it was cauliflower very creatively presented.  I probably enjoy cauliflower less than beets under normal conditions, but tonight I was impressed.

A blurry shot of Bill.  I wish I had waited just a second to get a clearer picture.  Oh well…

 

The dining room is very pretty, with lots of personal yet exotic touches.  I loved the fountain.

 

I started with a velvety Topinambur soup, served with two sea scallops and garnished with herb oil.  This soup was delicious.  The scallops were perfectly seared, just so they were cooked but not rubbery.  And it’s always a pleasure to find scallops in southern Germany, especially when they are properly prepared.

 

Bill had Kaninchen Ravioli– rabbit ravioli– which consisted of rabbit, black olives, pine nuts, herbs, and Parmesan cheese.  I didn’t try his starter because I don’t want to develop a taste for rabbit.  He loved it, though.  Must be his Arkansas roots.

 

My main course was rinderfilet (beef tenderloin), cooked to medium and served with a mustard sauce, bread dumplings, and vegetables.  The meat was so tender you could cut it with a spoon.  Given my preference, I would have liked the mustard on the side.  It was a little too intense for my taste.  A lighter touch would have made it easier to taste the beef.  I still enjoyed it very much.

 

Bill had roast saddle of lamb served with carrots and parsley root.  I did try the lamb.  I don’t usually like lamb, but I will admit that this was very good.  Not gamey at all and very tender.

For dessert, I had creme brulee, which came with a red berry compote and currant sorbet.  I probably would have been happy enough with just the sorbet, but I am always up for burnt custard when I can get it.

 

Bill had pannacotta of oat, a vegan sweet with quince ice cream and oat crumbles.   I did notice that there were a few options for non meat eaters, though the selection is not very large.

 

As we were enjoying our dinners, I couldn’t help but remember the crappy experience we had at the fancy Swiss hotel restaurant we tried back in December.  At Refugio, the wait staff was genuinely helpful and service oriented.  There was no egregious attempt at upselling.  It was clear to me that they were hoping we enjoyed ourselves.  In fact, when we mentioned we live in Germany and might be tempted to come spend a night, the waiter was sincerely happy and invited us to speak to the receptionist about their specials.  I can see this is a family owned business; that would account for the very professional, courteous, and genuinely kind service we received tonight.  I was very impressed.

I visited the ladies room again to process the wine and water and noticed that the restroom was spotlessly clean and stocked with high end toiletries, as well as thick washcloths.  I couldn’t help but wish we were spending the night.  I bet the rooms are beautiful.  I also noticed the spa.  I’m kind of hoping Bill and I can sneak away for a weekend in Tübingen sometime.  I know we live only about 40 minutes away, but we both love that town and would enjoy the chance to take in the nightlife.  It was easier to do that when we lived in Pfaeffingen the first time we were here.

Total damage for tonight’s beautiful dinner was 181 euros and 30 cents.  It was definitely worth it and we were allowed to pay by credit card.  We will have to go back another time and spend the night.  I’m sure it goes without saying that this restaurant is not kid friendly.

I think Refugio is well worth a visit and, even though it’s a hotel restaurant, offers great potential for a nice adult oriented date night outside of Stuttgart.  I highly recommend it.

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Christophorus… when you have a need to impress or celebrate…

Tonight’s sunset…  It was a stunner.

When we lived in Stuttgart the first time, I kept thinking we’d visit the Porsche Museum, but we never did.  We made it to the Mercedes Museum, but ran out of time before we could venture in the opposite direction and check out the fancy sportscars.  Some time ago, a member of the Facebook group Stuttgart Vents told me that I needed to try Christophorus, the restaurant at the Porsche Museum.  Since I’m more into good food than fancy cars, I decided to make a reservation.  I did so on OpenTable.de… several weeks in advance.  I reserved in early November and tonight was the first available date.

Well… now Bill and I have experienced Christophorus.  We have heard that it has the best steak in the area.  I must agree, the steaks there are fabulous.  In fact, I think my tastebuds all experienced simultaneous orgasms as I enjoyed my first taste.  It is quite a lovely place for dinner, especially if you’re in the mood to commemorate a special occasion.

As it turns out, Bill and I do have cause to celebrate.  Tomorrow morning, he will send off his last assignment for his second master’s degree.  Very soon, he will be as “educated” as I am… though since he will actually use his education, I would not call him “overeducated”.  For the past several weeks, we have both endured him having to get up in the middle of the night for conference calls with his classmates in Colorado.  For the past three years, his coursework, while mostly very flexible and portable, has occasionally cramped our style.

I am the one who convinced Bill to go ahead and get that second master’s degree, since it meant just a year in school and someone should be using the Post 9/11 Bill (and I sure as hell don’t want to go back to school).  It’s been a challenging year for both of us.  Now he’s done… and he’s coming very close to graduating with honors in a program that definitely wasn’t easy.  So we splurged tonight at Christophorus and it was worth every euro cent.  Special thanks to Rick, who has mercilessly teased me about being “overeducated”, but tipped me off to this very nice restaurant.  It was truly a first class experience, from the minute we drove into the parking garage until we said goodbye to our servers a couple of hours later.

We parked our car in the garage, in a special area for restaurant guests.  Bring your parking ticket with you.  It will be validated so you don’t have to pay.  Several Porsches are in the garage, available for a test drive.

The door opens for you as you walk to the elevator, which takes you to the restaurant and the conference facility.

We were warmly greeted by a server, who took our coats and led us to a very spacious and comfortable table near the impressive wine collection.  Within minutes of being seated, a very pleasant server came by with a cart loaded with all manner of apertifs.  I had a glass of pink champagne, while Bill had a glass of white champagne.  We sipped our bubbly as we perused the menu, entirely printed in English.  The servers also spoke flawless English and were extremely attentive.

Prost…

I thought the Porsche model car was a nice touch.

A cart full of liqueurs and other delights… and the very impressive wine collection.  On the other side of the dining room, one can watch the chefs at work.  Personally, I liked sitting near the wine, but I’m not known for my sobriety.

After we made our selection of courses, we sat back and looked around.  Having once waited tables myself, I could really appreciate how unhurried and professional the staff was.  They had plenty of people working and nobody looked bitter or weeded.  In fact, it appeared to be a very nice place to work.  The servers were genuinely nice to us, which I found very refreshing (though not that uncommon in Europe, where no one has to hustle for tips in order to make a living).

Lovely fresh bread.  We had salted butter, an olive tapenade, and a cottage cheese and tomato spread. I didn’t try the cheese and tomato spread.  Bill did and liked it.  The breads were mostly good, though the flatbread was a little burned on the bottom.  No big deal, really.  Who needs to fill up on bread?

An amuse.  I must confess, I didn’t really eat this.  I did taste it… but as it was goose liver pate served on red cabbage, I couldn’t quite stomach it.  I will say that as much as I dislike the taste of liver, this had a very interesting flavor.  In fact, in many ways, it reminded me of a chocolate truffle with a little cinnamon kick.  It didn’t really taste like goose liver… Bill ate his and enjoyed it.

Brave man.

 

Tonight, they were offering a pasta dish with a generous topping of truffles.  I don’t do truffles or anything else akin to mushrooms.  Bill loves truffles, but at 39 euros a pop, it was a bit much for a starter.  We were told it could also be a main course.  Perhaps if we hadn’t heard so much about the steak, Bill would have ordered it.  The people at the table next to us had one order of it and we could smell it easily from several feet away.  Bill was intoxicated by the aroma.  I wish I liked truffles.  On the other hand, the fact that I don’t is probably better for our budget.

I had the Essence of Parsley with Shrimp Dumplings…   I paired this with a suggested glass of white wine from Baden that smelled of pears and tasted of butter.  I asked the name of the wine and was told what it was, but I couldn’t spell it to save my life.  It went very well with the shrimp dumplings. 

And Bill had a beautiful Caesar Salad.  Really, it looked like art and was very delicious.  I liked my starter, too.

Before we ordered our steaks, our server brought out a display that showed the sizes and cuts of each piece of meat.  Christophorus offers an “original size” and a “lady’s cut”.  I decided to get the lady’s cut, which was 250 grams.  Bill had the original cut…  He had a strip and I had a rib eye.  The beef at Christophorus is USDA Prime beef.  It’s from the United States.

My rib eye… it was fantastic.  It was cooked perfectly and was beautifully seasoned.  Rick was right.  It was a marvelous steak.

I ordered a side of hash browns for an extra five euros.  The steaks also came with baked onion rings and homemade steak sauces.

Onion rings and sauces.  Bill’s strip was 350 grams.  It was cooked perfectly to medium and tasted amazing.  Bill ordered a reserve bottle of rioja that was just delightful with its essence of leather and fragrant nose.

 

Throughout dinner, our servers took impeccable care of us and kept our table spotless.  They were unfailingly polite and we never had to pour our own wine or water.

Dessert.  I went with the martini cocktail of passion fruit and saffron.  I don’t think this had booze in it… It was basically sorbet with passion fruit juice and a chocolate garnish served in a martini glass.

Bill had Mandarin and chocolate cake with hazelnut gratinee.  The hazelnut tasted like it was infused in a snow cone.  He loved it.  

 

Finally, about two hours after we first sat down, it came time for the check.  They brought out some candies/cookies to soften the blow.  And we had a round of espresso…

The damage.  About 233 euros before the tip.  By comparison, last night at Tommi’s Bistro, we spent 77 euros for two steaks, two sides, two shots of sherry, two bottles of wine, and two bottles of water… along with live music.

A fabulous bottle of Spanish wine from 2005.

More Porsche pics.

Maybe we’ll test drive one someday.

 

As we were getting our coats, the lady who took care of us the most asked if we lived here.  I guess she was impressed by Bill’s German and the fact that we had a clue about how to eat out in Germany and not look completely American.  Bill was modestly telling her his German isn’t so good… but I piped up that it’s still way better than mine!  I’m working on it, though.  Thank you, Duolingo.

The Porsche complex is very impressive… even at night!

Rick wanted to know how I would compare Tommi’s Bistro and Christophorus.  Here’s what I have to say about it.  If you’re looking for a special place, want to impress someone, and don’t mind dropping a load of euros, Christophorus is tough to beat.  The food and service are truly outstanding and, I thought the prices weren’t that out of line for what we got.  It’s not the most expensive meal we’ve ever had, but it probably ranks among one of the best.  Moreover, it’s more my kind of food than Five is– Five is a little too artsy for me, though Bill loved it.  By the way… if you don’t like steak, other options are available.  Christophorus also has Mediterranean dishes and tasting menus.

If you’re looking for a family friendly place to eat that has good live music and doesn’t cost a bundle, Tommi’s Bistro is a good bet.  It is, of course, in Jettingen and right now the hours are limited.  Tommi’s is very casual and reasonably priced.  The service is good, but it’s not impeccable like it is at Christophorus.

So yeah… both places are excellent in different ways.  Christophorus is where you go to celebrate or impress someone.  Tommi’s is where you go when you feel carnivorous, especially if you want to hear live music (when it’s being offered).  And I would rank both over [M]eatery, which is good, but not that good… and not that much less expensive than Christophorus, either.

We really had a wonderful time at Christophorus.  We left feeling satisfied, but not stuffed.  It was an expensive meal, but we felt it was worth what we paid.  I think we will be back, but maybe not for a few months.

We will soon leave for Austria, with a final destination of Vicenza, Italy.  I plan to be blogging up a storm during our trip.  I’m proud to say, my travel blog will be about travel again, at least temporarily.

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Dining with new friends at Osteria da Gino’s in Nagold

We wanted to have a really great meal this weekend.  Since the weather was nasty and the Schoenbuch Tunnel was closed, we decided to stay close and not try to use 81.  Osteria da Gino is in Nagold, which is about five kilometers from our little town.  Since our first time in March of this year, it’s become one of our favorite restaurants in the area.  We were long overdue for a visit, since our last one was in July while my mom was visiting.
Bill sent an email on Friday requesting a reservation on Friday or Saturday night.  Friday night was totally booked, so we were set for last night at 7:00.  I was really looking forward to it.  Then yesterday morning, I got a message on Facebook from my new friend Sarah, who asked if I could remind her of the name of “that awesome Italian place I wrote about.”  I told her about Gino’s place and that if she went last night, she’d see us there… and probably even at the same table!  Sure enough, that’s what happened!
It was great to see Gino, who was in the front part of his restaurant/store when we arrived.  We were immediately and enthusiastically greeted.  In fact, he even gave me a big hug and asked us in German why it had been so long since our last visit.  He asked about my mom, too.  Given that she was here over four months ago, I thought that was very impressive!  He led us to his tiny dining room, the few tables of which were almost all decorated with “reserviert” signs.
Sarah and her husband, Mike, were already seated and working on their first courses.  Although this was our first meeting in person, I had exchanged Facebook messages with Sarah a few times.  Mike and Sarah live in Sulz am Neckar, which is not that far from Nagold.  Gino could tell we were going to be fast friends, so he invited us to sit at their table.  As much fun as it is to dine with Gino as a couple, it’s even more fun when you’re with friends and can share the unique experience as well as the fantastic flavors!
I have mentioned before that Gino doesn’t really offer menus to his guests.  He also speaks very little English.  Although I don’t speak much German or Italian, I have always managed to communicate with Gino, who by now knows full well about my hatred of mushrooms.  With a bottle of San Pellegrino and a couple of glasses of red wine on the table, we were ready to have dinner.
We started with the usual orange, salami, and fennel salad.  This time, it came with a little cheese.   It tasted like Parmesan, but I’m not absolutely sure that’s what it was.  There was also a fresh breadstick.
Next came a trio of antipasti.  Pictured above is vitello tonnato and topped with capers.  Although I was a little leery at first, I have to admit that this was absolutely delicious.  It was one of my favorite of the dishes offered last night.
The usual medley of grilled vegetables included peppers, zucchini, and eggplant…
And everybody loved the Burrata, which was a sinfully smooth creamy cheese that reminded me a bit of mozzarella, only it was smoother, milder, and much creamier.  I don’t usually go for cheeses, but I have to admit I really enjoyed the Burrata with its garnish of sweet tomatoes and basil.  Wikipedia tells us that this cheese is made with cow’s milk mozzarella and cream… the word Burrata means butter in Italian.  
The pasta course for us consisted of spaghetti with crushed tomatoes, fish, shrimp, and mussels…  Sarah and Mike had what looked like homemade stuffed shells with cheese.  Sarah said there was a spice that tasted a little like nutmeg.  I’m pretty sure I had the same pasta course they had on our first visit.  I enjoyed watching her facial expressions as she tasted it!  Likewise, Bill and I enjoyed our pasta course, though maybe it was a little bigger than we needed.  I didn’t eat much of the actual pasta because I knew the main course was coming!  But I eagerly tucked in to the fruits of the sea, which were expertly prepared and delicious. 
Bill had osso bucco (veal) for his main dish.  So did Sarah.  Once again, I watched their facial expressions and they could only be described as orgasmic.  I like the taste of veal, but seldom eat it.  I did try a little of Bill’s dish, though, and could see why it was such a hit.  The meat was like butter and could have been cut with a spoon…  It was served with spinach and potatoes.
Mike and I both went for the fish option.  Stacked on a bed of spinach and potatoes was what I think may have been John Dory filet and a large grilled shrimp.  It, too, was a winning dish!
Sarah and Mike were too full for dessert.  Bill and I decided to go all the way and this was what the chef brought us…  a medley of panna cotta with currant sauce, a sliver of coffee flavored ice cream, a small piece of cake, and what tasted like a tiramisu inspired sweet.  We also had a round of espresso.
By the time we were finished eating, it was about 9:30.  The dining room had filled up.  One table included English speakers who sounded like they may have been Europeans speaking a common language.  They were having a fabulous time, too!  And Gino and his staff were joining in the merriment.
Sarah and Mike spent 119 euros on their dinner, while ours was 160 euros (we had dessert and the pasta with fish and shrimp).  On the way out, Gino’s wife and the chef invited us to enjoy some grappa and Gino’s wife asked me about my mom!  She does speak a little English, as does the chef, who was wearing a shirt that read “Make food, not war.”
On the way home, Bill and I were talking about how amazing our night was, not just because of the food and Gino’s warm hospitality, but because we left his place having made two new friends.  It goes without saying that I highly recommend Osteria da Gino in Nagold.  Just make sure you make reservations, can spend a few hours, and aren’t looking for pizza.  Also, go with an open mind and a willingness to try something new and exciting!  As we found out last night, it’s also a great place for friends.  Sarah and Mike were raving about the experience as we said goodnight!
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Breaking boundaries at Five in Stuttgart…

Yesterday, Bill and I celebrated our 13th wedding anniversary.  Since 13 is a quirky number, I decided to find us a quirky restaurant.  I found it when I booked at table at Five.  No, I am not referring to the time at which I reserved.  The restaurant, which has a Michelin Star, is called Five.   I found the place on opentable.de, and decided to book it when I noticed the stellar reviews on TripAdvisor and OpenTable, as well as the super imaginative Web site.  Well, actually, Bill was more into the Web site than I was.  He gets off on artsy stuff and science fiction movies like Blade Runner.

I snapped this photo before we left… I don’t know how he does it, but Bill makes me smile so pretty.  I usually smirk in my selfies because when I smile, it doesn’t look real.  But when Bill is in the photo, no problem!

Anyway, we battled Stuttgart traffic to make our seven o’clock reservation at the downtown restaurant.  We were warmly greeted by a young, casually dressed man at the door.

The front door.  Directly across the street is a huge parking garage that is open 24 hours.

He invited us to take a look at the bar area while he alerted the wait staff of our arrival.  It turned out we had the first reservation, so he was back quickly. Too bad, because the bar area at Five is really cool looking.  It’s dimly lit, with wooden tables and comfortable chairs everywhere, along with chilled out music on the sound system.  I’m pretty sure they serve light fare there, but again, I didn’t have a chance to check it out too thoroughly.

We climbed a flight of stairs to the restaurant, which was slightly brighter and quieter, but still decorated with an interesting mural that included a nude depiction of a woman’s body.  Seated at a thick wooden table with a rough surface (which Bill said almost gave him a splinter), we gazed around at how the room was decorated.  If you’re into visuals, Five offers a feast for the eyes.  From my seat, I had a good view of the kitchen, which was enclosed with glass so clear I couldn’t even tell it was there… except for seeing one of the staff cleaning it before dinner got started.

The view from our table.  As you can see, the kitchen is easy to observe.  I was enjoying an introductory glass of champagne, which was served in a wine glass rather than a flute.

 

We were taken care of by a man and a woman, both of whom spoke English.  They were handling the whole dining room, though at 7:00, we were the only ones there.  By the time we left three hours later, several other tables were occupied, though the restaurant was not full.  My guess is that it gets a lot more business on the weekends.

Obligatory Bill shot for all his fans.

 

The female server explained to us that we could either order off the menu or do a surprise tasting menu.  Although I tend to be very picky about some things, Bill is more adventurous.  He wanted to try the surprise tasting menu with a wine pairing.  I agreed to be brave.  We told the waitress the foods we absolutely can’t do.  For me, it’s mushrooms.  For Bill, it’s liver or other exotic organ meats (and I wouldn’t want those, either… yecch!).  Also, since Bill was driving, they gave him half pours of the wines.  We also ordered a bottle of sparkling water.  I noticed that both servers wore black gloves when they presented the food.

This was the amuse, which was not part of the four course tasting menu we chose.  It looks like an egg, but actually, it’s not…  The green base is leek soup.  The “yolk” is made of mascarpone cheese, and the white is a different cheese.  It’s garnished with a little ham, some sprouts, and a cracker.  Bill loves cheese, but I’m very particular.  Nevertheless, I took a deep breath and enjoyed this.  I definitely loved the artistic presentation.

When we were finished with the “egg” that wasn’t an egg, out came the first course… which also was a challenge for me because it included more cheese…   As this was being served, I told the male server that I don’t do mushrooms or truffles.  He gave me a horrified look and said, “Not even truffles?”  Ha ha ha.  I wish I could eat them, but I can’t.  I will happily eat turkey corpse, though…  😉

The two whitish half discs in the center of the bowl are sheep’s milk cheese.  They are surrounded with beet root and topped with crackers seasoned with pink pepper.  Bill’s version included mushroom juice.  Sheep’s milk cheese is usually not something I enjoy, but this was very mild and not at all offensive.  And the beets, while usually too earthy for me, were kind of sweet.  The color definitely added to the visual presentation.  I managed half of the cheese and let Bill finish it, since he’s an aficionado.  

 

Next came the bread.  It was very fresh and served with butter infused with walnuts and an eggplant spread.  Bill like the eggplant spread.  I couldn’t really taste it, though I did think the gilded walnut butter was nice.

I really enjoyed the second course.  This was a langostino served with fennel salad and Belgian endive.  They drizzled date syrup over it, which really played beautifully with the slight tanginess of the endive.  And, of course, the shrimp was perfectly cooked.  This was paired with a local Riesling from the Keller vintner.  We really liked the wine and will be looking for a bottle of it soon.  

We had a slight problem with the next course, which consisted of sweet potatoes, pistachio syrup, bacon, and what appeared to be mushrooms.  As I have mentioned so many times, I can’t do mushrooms at all.  It took a few minutes to get the server’s attention, and at first, she explained that they weren’t mushrooms but were kind of like them.  Then she said they weren’t earthy.  I tried to eat one, but couldn’t… So she brought out another version of the same dish without the fungus.  I was able to finish that and enjoyed it.  The pistachio syrup seemed to be infused with citrus, which set off the sweet and starchy qualities of the sweet potatoes.  The salt in the bacon also cut the sweetness a bit.  I don’t usually like sweet potatoes that much, but I enjoyed this.  Later, the server explained that they had sneaked in mushrooms with the first version and she apologized.  Bill loves mushrooms, so none of this was an issue for him. We had another Riesling with this course, this time from the Mosel Valley.  It was more of a semi-sweet wine.  Again, it paired very well.

 

It was finally time for the main course.  We knew we were getting different items, since they laid down different silverware for us and we got different wines.  For Bill, they poured a lovely red from the Rhone Valley.  I knew he was going to love that, since he loves red wines from southern France.  For me, they poured an Austrian chardonnay.  I had just been talking about how I like my whites with a little kick.  But when they poured a chardonnay, I knew I was going to be having fish…

And I was right.  The server said the fish was called “kalt” fish, or something that sounds like it.  She said it was similar to cod.  Having tasted it, I would swear it was sea bass, which happens to be one of my favorite fishes!  This was served with wilted greens, artichoke, potato puree, and a sauce made from potato peels.  I think this was my favorite course.  It was delicious.  And whether or not I was eating sea bass, this was sinfully buttery and delicate.  

Bill was served venison, which came with mushrooms and sauce made from blackberries.  I didn’t taste Bill’s main course because I’m not a big fan of venison.  He loved it, though.  

The above photo is of what they called “pre dessert”, which I think was a palate cleanser.  The star tasted like vanilla ice cream infused with cardamom.  It was paired with apple puree and nuts.  The dots around the star were what they called “hot wine”, though it wasn’t hot.  I liked it… not only was it creatively presented, but it reminded me of apple pie a la mode and was perfect for the fall…

Another obligatory shot of Bill drinking wine…

Finally, we had dessert.  Pictured above is a plum pudding with discs of hazelnut ice cream, chocolate “air” (think Aero candy bars), and drizzled in a plum syrup.  Again, imaginative, creative, and not a lava cake!  It was the perfect ending, paired with a dessert wine from Austria that had the essence of roses.  

We were presented with this little platter of housemade candies just before we asked for the check.  I commented to Bill that in America, no one would ever present food sitting on a tray of rocks.  They’d be too afraid someone would think the rocks were candy!  Lawsuit time!  But here in Germany, people are expected to be able to tell a rock from a Jordan almond and not break their teeth…  I find that refreshing!

As we were finishing up, the restaurant grew louder.  Lots of people were in the bar area, including one woman who seemed to have a really bad case of laryngitis, yet was chattering loudly and incessantly.  Listening to her talk from all the way down in the bar and sounding like she needed complete vocal rest, I quipped that perhaps they should hand out ballgags to go with the rather unorthodox environment at Five.  I’m kidding, of course, but do want to point out that if you’re looking for a quiet, romantic restaurant, Five may not be your venue.  It does get rather noisy.  Also, it’s definitely not a kid friendly kind of place.  I noticed that many of the other diners in the restaurant were somewhat alternative looking, which I thought was very intriguing.  By alternative, I mean they appeared to be somewhat young and sexy, not stodgy, formal, or curmudgeonly.  Five has a youthful, upwardly mobile, ortherwordly kind of feel.

Our bill came to 282 euros before tip and they do take credit cards.  Although it’s been awhile since we last spent that much on a meal, we did enjoy dining at Five.  The surprise menu concept is always risky for me, but I have to admit, it was rather successful last night, even with the mushroom incident.  Bill loved the feel of Five.  I tend to enjoy more traditional kinds of places, but I would certainly not be averse to coming back to Five.  The service is friendly and competent and the food is exquisite.  Besides, everybody needs to venture out of their comfort zones once in awhile.  I’m proud to say that, more than Bill, I did that last night.  Eating cheese and enjoying it was in and of itself a thrill!  If you’re up for a culinary adventure and have lots of money to spend, I recommend Five.  They made our 13th anniversary memorable.

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Visit number two to Tommi’s Bistro in Unterjettingen…

Since Bill has to go away next week, we decided to have dinner at Tommi’s Bistro again.  The weather was very agreeable.  I didn’t even need a jacket, though I brought one just in case.  Our first stop was at the bank for some euros.  There is a Sparkasse right across the street from Tommi’s.  It even has a handy air pump for those who ride bikes.

Clever ad campaign.

We crossed the street and entered the restaurant where the same bartender/waitress who was working three weeks ago was behind the bar.  She immediately recognized us and gave us a smile as we took a seat.  Not many people were at Tommi’s last night, so the mood was rather relaxed.  I immediately recognized Lou Gramm’s vocals.  It was apparently Foreigner night at Tommi’s, because that was what played on the sound system the entire time we were there.  Given that we’re Americans and everybody else in the restaurant was German, I guess it was appropriate.

Bill ordered a nice bottle of Argentinian wine and some fizzy water.

 

Naturally, we also ordered steaks.  I decided to go with the three hundred gram dry aged rib-eye from Argentina.  Bill had the three hundred gram rib-eye from Ireland.  We wanted to compare them.  At 21.50 euros, it was a pretty fair deal.  I had pommes (fries) as a side and Bill had the oven baked potato with sour cream.

Before our steaks arrived, we enjoyed a complimentary house shot of sherry.

I mentioned in my last review of Tommi’s that it’s also a music venue.  Next Saturday, a CCR cover band is playing.  I might want to see that, though Saturday is the day Bill returns from his trip.  He might be too tired.

I hear these guys can jam!

If you like pulled pork, you might want to visit Tommi’s April 24-26.  We will be in Vienna during those dates.

My steak from Argentina.  I didn’t bother photographing the fries.  You’ve seen one plate of fries, you’ve seen them all.

Bill’s steak and baked potato.  I did try the baked potato, though I’m not really a sour cream fan.  I like my potatoes plain with butter and salt.  I will admit the baked potato was very good, even with the sour cream.  I might have it next time.

 

I preferred the Argentinian steak to the Irish one, though both were good.  To me, the Argentinian steak had a different flavor and texture.  It was more tender and had a more appealing flavor.  Unfortunately, I can’t really describe it in words.  Bill agreed, though he enjoyed the Irish beef and would have no issues ordering it again.  I also discovered that the 300 gram size is more than I can handle.  Next time, I’m downsizing.

Dinner was very leisurely.  We finished after a couple of hours and Bill decided to order us a round of Williams pear schnapps.  He has a funny story about pear schnapps that involved underage drinking and a sleazy bartender back in the mid 80s.  Fortunately, last night’s round was more mundane.

 

The chef came out and greeted everyone.  I don’t think he spoke English, but we were able to thank him and tell him the meal was excellent.  For those who like karaoke, there is a “live karaoke” night on Thursday of this week.  It basically involves singing with a live band, which I would love to do.  I wish Bill would be in town this week, though, because I don’t want to go by myself.  In fact, as I was explaining this to the waitress, I taught her the English slang term “chicken”.  That’s what I am.  Perhaps I’ll get another chance sometime soon. 

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An unforgettable Italian meal in Nagold…

Yesterday, I got an email from Bill asking me what I wanted to do about dinner last night.  Bill usually cooks dinner at our house, but I knew he’d had a rough work week.  When I wrote back that I didn’t know what we should have for our evening repast, he suggested that we venture out for dinner.  I didn’t argue.  Then he asked me where we should go.

We live only a few miles from the adorable town of Nagold and it had been a long while since our last visit there.  So I wrote back, “Why don’t we go to Nagold?”

He wrote back, “Fine!  Pick a place.”

The last time we went to Nagold was in the fall of 2014.  I don’t know why we hadn’t been back.  It’s such a cute town, right by a river with a castle.  It’s not crowded.  There’s plenty of parking.  We live really close.  And it’s refreshingly German there.  Both times we’ve gone, people have asked us what we were doing there!  I don’t get the sense that they get many Americans visiting.

Anyway, since it had been awhile since our last visit, I tried to think of places we might go.  I finally consulted TripAdvisor.  According to TripAdvisor, the number one restaurant in Nagold is Osteria da Gino.  After reading a couple of glowing reviews in English and then noticing the high ratings from Germans, I clicked on the restaurant’s Web site.  It is entirely in German, but I understood enough to know that I wanted to try it.  I sent Bill the link and he made us reservations for 7:00.

I got a funny email from him later, explaining that there was some confusion when he called.  No one there spoke English and Bill’s German is riddled with grammatical and vocabulary errors (but it’s still way better than MY German).  Fortunately, somehow, they got the message and we got our reservation.  We showed up promptly at 7:00, ready for a new culinary adventure.

When we walked into the tiny restaurant, we found ourselves in what looked like a small deli.  There was one large table set up in there, though no one was sitting at it at the time.  A short, smiling man with curly silver hair was behind a meat case, slicing fresh salami for a couple of people.  When Bill told us who we were, the guy started laughing and spoke rapid fire German about the confusion caused when Bill called for a table.  I was immediately enchanted by the guy, who was very friendly and funny even though he didn’t speak a word of English to us.  He turned us over to his colleagues, a tiny Italian woman and the person I presume is the chef, who checked for our name and then led us into a very small dining room with four large tables in it.

Two seats at one table were reserved for us.  Two women, obviously regulars, were already seated at the other end of the table.  They were deep in conversation as we took a seat and waited.  I was curious because we were not presented menus.  Since I can be very picky about certain things, I was a little worried…  On the other hand, sometimes going with the flow can be very rewarding.  Such was the case last night.

Bill tries not to look too interested…

 

After a few minutes, the tiny Italian lady came over and asked what we would be drinking.  We ordered mineral water with gas and red wine.  She brought us two glasses of wine and the water.  I have no earthly idea what wine she brought us or whether it was German or Italian.  It was pretty decent, though.

A few minutes later, Gino brought out the first course…

We had a slice of salami, a stick of cheese, pieces of orange and fennel coated with olive oil, black pepper, and vinegar, and an olive.  I had to ask Gino what the fennel was, since it’s not something I encounter daily.  This was very good… in fact, the salami was especially good.  We will need to go back and pick some up for home.  This combination is not something I would have ever dreamed up on my own, but it worked very well.  Bill has since discovered that it’s all over the ‘net.  Even Martha Stewart has a version of this salad.

 

Next, Gino asked us in German how we felt about a plate of vegetables.  He gave us a basic description and Bill said something along the lines of, as long as there aren’t any mushrooms.  He knows from being around me for years that mushrooms will ruin my dinner!  A basket of fresh bread accompanied the vegetables.

Gino brought this out…  grilled peppers, artichokes, zucchini, eggplant, and what tasted like batter friend eggplant.  I must admit, I don’t usually eat a lot of eggplant or artichokes, but was willing to try them last night.  The vegetables were very good, though Bill is more partial to artichokes than I am.  I particularly enjoyed the roasted peppers, which were bursting with flavor and sweetness.

I catch Bill being expressive after we ordered more wine.  I don’t know what this wine was, either, but it was better than the first.  I think they got the picture that we like our wine…  We each got little pitchers…

Then I took another photo of Bill looking mischievous.  I should have never gotten an iPhone.  It’s completely eroded my table manners.

Next came the first plate.  This is where we hit a slight snag.  I hate mushrooms.  I am also not a fan of truffles.  Bill, on the other hand, loves all fungus.  I had a feeling we’d have this problem last night and we did…

We each got the above dish, which was basically a pasta Alfredo with black truffles…  Bill was delighted with it, but the aroma was too much for me.  I don’t do well with strong earthy flavors, despite my earthy personality.  

 

Gino noticed immediately and asked if I preferred pasta with tomatoes.  I agreed enthusiastically.  I assumed I’d get something similar to what Bill was enjoying (and he really was enjoying it), but Gino brought out something different…

 

This was pasta with ricotta cheese covered with a heavenly tomato sauce.  All of it was clearly homemade.  I was delighted with it.

 

I truly wish I liked mushrooms.  I wish I liked truffles.  Unfortunately, I have never enjoyed fungus of any kind, even though I have been told many times that I don’t know what I’m missing.  When I was a child, I had an actual phobia of mushrooms.  Two of my mean-spirited sisters gleefully exploited my phobic tendencies by picking the huge mushrooms that grew in our backyard in England and chasing me around the house as I screamed in terror.  The more artistic sister used to draw shark teeth on any mushroom illustrations in my coloring books.  Yes, I had a traumatic childhood.  Fortunately,  I have mostly gotten over my mycophobia, but I still can’t abide mushrooms, not even when prepared by the best chef in the world.

I think Gino realized that my rejection was not a reflection on the quality of the dish.  It was due to my own preferences and irrational fears.  Even if I had been a truffle fan, I was glad he brought me the substitute, because it was outstanding and gave us a chance to try something different.

When we were finished with the pasta, Gino asked us if we preferred meat or fish for our second plate.  I chose fish and Bill had meat.  Then Gino asked Bill if he wanted the meat served grilled, “saltinbocca” (marinated veal), or “osso bucco” (braised).  Bill said he preferred it grilled.

Bill’s meat dish.  It was sinfully good.  I think it was veal, but I’m not totally sure…  It was served with perfectly prepared greens and a small side of potatoes.

My fish.  Again… not exactly sure what this was.  I did see zander filet on the list of specials outside, so maybe it was that.  The flavor exploded in my mouth with buttery goodness.  I really enjoyed it.  The air of mystery kind of added to the experience, too.

 

Toward the end of our meal, I was getting a little nervous about the time.  This was a sumptuously long meal and I was a little concerned that our parking area might close.  I didn’t read the sign carefully but did notice 22:00 on it.  I had an irrational fear of being stranded in Nagold.  But Gino insisted that we had to cap off our meal with dessert, so we shared this…

Panna cotta, blueberry sauce, blueberry sorbet (I’m guessing), and vanilla cake with a chocolate hazelnut ice cream center.

Then he brought us espresso…

And finally, grappa.  We had a choice of white or brown.  I had the brown and Bill had the white… and Gino joined us!

Bill recovers after a wonderful meal!

 

Final bill was 141 euros.  Gino would not take a tip.  He does take credit cards, but was happy that we had cash.  Our set menu cost 56 euros each.  The wine was 24 euros (two glasses and two small pitchers) and we paid 5 euros for a big bottle of San Pellegrino.  We left his restaurant very satisfied, but not stuffed.  And the meal was very healthy!

Fortunately, the parking lot was still open.  In fact, we paid 1,20 euros for our spot, but we didn’t have to.  The lot was wide open at 10:00 and we could have left at will.

Things to know about Gino’s place…   

Make reservations.  The dining room is very small and it’s a popular place with locals.  You will likely be sharing a table with another party if there are only two of you.  It’s not a very intimate place, but you will be part of a group of people really enjoying the food and that’s a good thing.

No one on staff speaks much English and you may not get a menu.  However, it pays to just go with the flow because Gino knows what he’s doing.  He’s a very gregarious guy who will make you laugh as he brings out magical dishes from the kitchen.  I did notice a sign with specials on them outside and one on the wall in the dining room.  I kind of liken last night’s meal to the restaurant equivalent of a “blind booking”.

There is no pizza.

There are tables available outside for when the weather is warmer.

Be prepared to spend a few hours.  This is intended to be a leisurely experience and is no place to go if you’re in a big hurry.

Gino is a wonderful host.  It was our first visit, but he was so warm and welcoming and the entire family said goodbye to us as we left, especially after we told him we live in Jettingen.  Like other Nagolders, I think he was surprised to have Americans in his restaurant (he thought we were British at first) and wanted to know what we were doing there.  When Bill told him that we live here because he has a job, he seemed delighted.  I think he expects to see us again and it won’t surprise me if he and his colleagues remember our likes and dislikes, much like the Mad Scientist does…

It’s a very European experience…  It reminds me a bit of a fantastic restaurant called Trattoria da Bibe Bill and I went to when we visited Florence.  Indeed, Gino’s cuisine is also very Tuscan…

A picture of the sign outside.  I really need to learn to take pictures when the sun is out.

Needless to say, we loved our meal at Osteria da Gino in Nagold.  We will definitely be back and this will be one place that goes on the list for entertaining guests.  Now I want to go back and get some of that salami!  A bonus is that I got to use my fledgling German skills as well as a few Italian words.  I’d say it was a very successful stop!

Information about Osteria da Gino:

Querstrasse 3 72202 Nagold

Telephone: 07452 66610

Open:

Mo-Sa 11:30-14:30
Mo-Sa 17:30-24:00
Closed on Sundays

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Calling all meat lovers…

Okay…  well, if you don’t like meat, don’t bother with this post.  If you like a good steak, please read on…

When we first took our house in Unterjettingen, the previous tenants mentioned that there is a fantastic steak house here.  We kinda figured they were talking about Tommi’s Bistro, which is a bar sort of on the main drag.  We didn’t know for certain, though, and we still don’t.  What I do know that is that it’s unlikely there is a better steak joint in this area; and, frankly, we hit the beef jackpot.  Tommi’s is also well known for being a great place for live music.

I am ashamed to admit that we’ve been here since September 2014 and tonight was our first visit to Tommi’s…  Sure, we had eyed the place.  We wanted to visit a couple of months ago.  Shit, we live within walking distance of Tommi’s!  But tonight was the first time we ever visited.  We walked there from our house; it took maybe ten minutes.  We were rewarded with the very best steaks either of us have ever had in Germany.  Given that my husband has been here three times and I have been here twice, not including visits on vacation, that is really saying something.

 

Tommi’s menu… very unassuming… They have a variety of dry aged steaks from Argentina, in a variety of sizes…  

 Bill checks the menu…

 

I decided on the 200 gram entrecôte (rib eye).  Bill had a 200 gram rinderfilet (filet mignon).  We both ordered pommes on the side.  Our steaks came with an aperitif of sherry.  There were plenty of other sides to choose from, but we decided to go basic.

It was quite a nice sherry, too…  No extra charge.

 

My rib-eye was PERFECT.  It was cooked to medium, tender and juicy, just the way I like it; and it was just plain fabulous…

 

And so was Bill’s filet, though he paid an extra six euros for filet mignon.  He says it was worth every euro penny!

We both had pommes… they were excellent.  Other, healthier sides were available.

Yes, that is a stage.  Tommi’s hosts a lot of live entertainment, especially on Thursday and Saturday nights!  It was pretty quiet tonight, though.

 

A shot of the bar, right after another couple had left.  When we arrived, one couple was at the bar, one was at a table with their kids, and there were two guys by the window.  We were the last to leave.  It’s a crying shame!

Bill checks out the menu again…

And decides to join me with a glass of wine.  He had filet mignon and fries, plus a beer and a glass of wine.  I had a ribeye and two glasses of wine.  Total bill before tip = 52.80 euros.

We found the service to be as good as the food was.  The bartender/waitress was very kind and pleasant and spoke excellent English.  She was happy to tell us about the music offered at Tommi’s, as well as the good food.  I left the restaurant feeling sad that we’d only just discovered it.  Moreover, the whole time we were there, they were playing songs that were popular when I was a kid.  “Ev’ry Rose Has Its Thorn”, check!  “Purple Rain”, check!  “How Long” by Ace, check!  I was especially excited when they played “The Last Unicorn” by America…  I happen to own the very expensive German import CD soundtrack from that 1982 film (I was ten when it came out)…

Not a good shot of their sign, but…

If you ever find yourself in Unterjettingen, I highly recommend Tommi’s Bistro.  Hell, even if you just really like an excellent steak from Argentina, you should get your ass to this town.  I was very impressed, and I am a woman who knows about meat.  If you are a music fan, you may also want to know about Tommi’s.  And yes, they do have some things on the menu other than meat… but meat is where they really shine.  I was happy to thank the chef on my way out.

Parking may be a challenge.  We did notice what looked like parking near a biergarten, but the one other time we meant to visit, we were skittish about parking…  Fortunately, we live so close that walking is no problem.

We will definitely be back to Tommi’s soon.  If you like beef and want a great steak in Germany, we highly suggest you follow our lead!

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Part seven of our Hamburger saga!

Yesterday, we decided to try Sofitel’s extremely expensive breakfast.  Though there are plenty of places around the hotel that we could have tried, I like to see what hotels offer, especially when they charge 30 euros a person!  And I have to admit, Sofitel’s breakfast was very impressive, even though we didn’t come close to eating 60 euros worth of food.

The hotel offers a vast array of juices, cereals, breads, cheeses, cold cuts, and even champagne if you want it.  They also have a buffet that includes scrambled eggs, baked beans, sautéed mushrooms (yuck), several kinds of sausages, bacon, and soft and hard boiled eggs.  They have fruit, yogurt, smoked salmon, smoked trout, and other breakfast delicacies.  Yes, you can have most anything you want at Sofitel’s breakfast, though I didn’t see anything being cooked to order.  Service was pretty good, but not 30 euros good.  Still, they were doing a brisk business.  If we stay there again, we’ll go to one of several local cafes and/or coffee shops.  Starbucks is close; so are several Ballzac outlets (whenever I saw the name Ballzac, it made me think of ball sack– not so appetizing!).

We had several hours to kill before our flight at 4:25pm, so we checked our bags at the hotel after we checked out and did some more walking around Hamburg.  I took more photos so my iPhoto slide show will be more interesting.  One thing I noticed in Hamburg is that many people there are very tall.  It must be the Nordic influence up there because I saw quite a few women who were at least six feet tall and a lot of men who were even taller.  Bill and I are of Celtic descent and we’re shorties.  I’m about 5’2″ and he’s 5’7″.  We felt like we weren’t done growing.

I also noticed that Hamburg is heavy on designer stores.  I’m sure there are plenty of wealthy people there.  In fact, on the way to the airport, I noticed some very impressive “Victorian” looking homes on the outskirts of town.  But I have to wonder if there really are that many people wanting to spend so much money on clothes and other luxury goods.  I guess there must be, though I didn’t see too many people actually shopping in the stores.  I did see a lot of bored looking security guys standing around in the stores.

I mentioned to Bill that though Hamburg has more bridges than Amsterdam does (and I haven’t yet really seen Amsterdam, other than the airport), the city reminds me a lot of Oslo.  Fortunately, it’s not as expensive as Norway’s capital is, but it is just as cold!  Or at least it was when we were there.  We were told Hamburg doesn’t get so much snow, though, because it’s so close to the water.

After we walked around Hamburg some more, we decided to have lunch.  I noticed a cute little Portuguese place near The Funky Fish and Le Plat du Jour that I wanted to try.  Bill and I headed over there and, boy, did that turn out to be a great ending to our Hamburg adventure!  I think there must be a number of Italian and Portuguese folks in Hamburg because we saw a lot of restaurants featuring either cuisine.  Italian restaurants were especially plentiful.  Curiously enough, we didn’t see many Greek restaurants at all.

Anyway, we headed over to this little Portuguese place called O’ Cafe Central that is well liked by Yelpers and Trip Advisor.  We didn’t check Yelp! or Trip Advisor before we went there.  I just had a good feeling about the place, which was offering a very economical three course lunch special for 10 euros.  We had plenty of time to enjoy a leisurely lunch and when we arrived, I think there was maybe one other party in the place.  By the time we left, it was pretty full.  Obviously, it’s very popular with the local business crowd.  After our lunch yesterday, I can see why.

Service is very prompt and friendly, though I don’t think either of the two ladies who helped us were English speakers.  To be honest, though, I found that kind of refreshing.  It forced me to use my fledgling German skills.

The view from our table before the place got busy.

Yesterday’s special included a white bean soup with bacon.  This soup was delicious and filling!  It reminded me a little of peanut soup, though I didn’t see peanuts listed as a starring ingredient.  It was still a very nice soup for such a chilly afternoon.  

We had a choice between a salmon filet or turkey medallions.  I had the salmon, while Bill had the turkey.  We both really enjoyed our main courses.  My salmon came with some kind vanilla scented fruit.  I’m not sure what it was (ETA: it was pumpkin).  Bill thought it was squash at first, but it was too sweet for that.  It could have been apricots.  Honestly, all I know was that whatever it was, it was delicious!

Bill’s turkey medallions were more savory, served with snap peas and rice.

Our specials came with dessert.  My mouth is watering looking at it right now… They were like little eclairs with raspberry coulis and cream.  Very nice!

We finished up with espresso… all told, our check for our lunch, which included a half liter of house red wine and a bottle of San Pellegrino, was about 32 euros!  That made up for our overpriced breakfast!

Outside the restaurant…

O’ Cafe Central was bustling by the time we left.  That’s another restaurant I would not hesitate to enjoy again in Hamburg.  Had we not liked the lunch special, we could have ordered off the menu.  We saw people doing that and what was being served looked excellent.  Service was fast, friendly, and very pleasant.  Yet another culinary jewel!  And if you like Portuguese beer, you’re in luck… they have Sagres!

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